labrador retriever puppies orange county

Please be sure to provide many chew toys to help with this transitional period. Cow hooves can be found at many pet stores and are recommended. Stay away from pig ears and cheap rawhide, and "greenies," as these can cause severe diarrhea, bloat, and are a choking hazard. For instance, keep an eye out for diarrhea if you change your pup's food. If your bulldog develops diarrhea then stop all food for 12 hours. If it persists for more than 24 hours, contact your veterinarian immediately to prevent dehydration. Puppies can dehydrate very rapidly so you need to take it seriously when diarrhea occurs. Dogs can pick up some unwanted guests: ticks, fleas, mites, lice, and intestinal worms. Your dog can be the perfect host for these pests if regular treatment for these nasty pests is not given. Your veterinarian is the best source of knowledge for the local bugs that bug the local dog population and how to prevent these pests. Heartworm is a widespread disease present spread by mosquitoes throughout most of the United States. There is a treatment for heartworm, but it is expensive and takes a toll physically on the dog and can take months to combat. This is especially important for dogs that spend a lot of time outside, that live on farms, or that hunt, as they are at increased risk of contracting this tick-borne disease. Puppies will generally have a first veterinary visit at the age of six weeks by the person who has the mother dog. The veterinarian will examine the puppies to make sure there are no hernias, heart, lung, or eye or ear problems in any of the pups. At 9 weeks, and then again at 12 weeks, the de-wormer and distemper vaccines will be repeated. Then these can be given once a year or on a schedule determined by you and your veterinarian. Lowell Ackerman. This vaccination is required by many communities. There can sometimes be severe penalties if your dog is not rabies vaccinated especially if the dog bites a person or another pet. As your dog ages, more frequent examinations will need to be given. Twice yearly examination will catch medical issues before they become big problems. Older dogs frequently suffer from arthritis and heart disease just like elderly humans. There are effective and safe treatments that can help your older dog live reasonably pain-free and pleasant golden years. It is important to spay females or neuter male your puppy. In addition to various health benefits for the dog decreased chances of certain tumors and infections , there is a big societal benefit in the decreased number of unwanted dogs. Microchipping is also encouraged in case your dog ever becomes lost. The inner ear part of the ear is normally white or darker colored, usually corresponding to the color of the dog's coat, so look for discoloring. The puppy's ears should also not smell nor have any discharge in the ear or on the flap. The ear should be free of debris, dirt, or parasites, like ticks or mites. Any of the following are abnormal: [9] X Trustworthy Source American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Leading organization dedicated to the prevention of animal cruelty Go to source Scratching or pawing the ear. Shaking the head excessively. If in doubt, or if you suspect an ear infection, have your veterinarian look in the ear using an otoscope to examine the eardrum. Never stick a q-tip or similar type of product into the ear canal. You will not be able to see the entire ear canal and should not try to put anything down there. Never use human toothpaste on a dog; only use dental toothpaste made for dogs. The fluoride in human toothpaste is poisonous to dogs and can cause serious health problems. Place a little puppy toothpaste on your fingertip and let your puppy lick it off. The next day put it on your finger and rub it along the outer gums. Then try to put a little on a dog toothbrush, let the puppy lick it then run the toothbrush along the outer edges of the teeth and gums. Only the outer part against the cheeks needs to be brushed. Even with regular tooth brushing, dogs may need dental cleanings once in a while. Plaque and bacteria can build up under the gum line causing problems there or in the roots of the teeth. Just like with their human owners, regular mouth examinations by their doggy dentist should be done once a year. The English Bulldog — Quite a Chap! The English Bulldog can be expected to have certain traits: Affectionate, easygoing, and lovable Quiet—not much of a barker Good with kids and other pets An excellent guard dog, courageous and dependable Adaptable to a wide variety of living conditions Outgoing and friendly personality You may also these characteristics in your bully buddy: Can be gassy and drool a lot Makes a lot of snorting, snuffling, and wheezing noises, and she may snore Can become overweight easily if not exercised regularly Can be rambunctious and rowdy, especially as a puppy Sensitive, matures slowly Can be possessive of toys and food, tending to show dominance She is an intelligent and dependable companion that forms close human bonds. With early socialization and consistent leadership , she is a social and cheerful addition to any family. The modern Bulldog, with a heavy, thickset, low body and massive head, originated in England after the elimination of bull-baiting in .The Old English Bulldog was crossed with the Pug to create a more docile and affectionate family pet. The Bulldog retained its protective and fearless nature, but aggressive and ferocious tendencies were removed from the breed. Bulldogs serve as popular mascots, representing strength in the face of adversity for the US Marine Corps and more than 30 US Universities. Bulldogs are famous for their gentle nature, fondness of children, and clownish antics. The Bulldog is a generally healthy breed with an average lifespan of years. That is why we have summarized the health concerns we will be discussing with you over the life of your Bulldog. By knowing about health concerns specific to Bulldogs, we can tailor a preventive health plan to watch for and hopefully prevent some predictable risks. That does not mean your dog will have these problems; it just means that she is more at risk than other dogs. We will describe the most common issues seen in Bulldogs to give you an idea of what may come up in her future. This guide contains general health information important to all canines as well as the most important genetic predispositions for Bulldogs. At the end of the article, we have also included a description of what you can do at home to keep your English Bulldog looking and feeling her best. And unfortunately, your Bulldog is more likely than other dogs to have problems with her teeth. It starts with tartar build-up on the teeth and progresses to infection of the gums and roots of the teeth. Infections Bulldogs are susceptible to bacterial and viral infections — the same ones that all dogs can get — such as parvo, rabies, and distemper. Many of these infections are preventable through vaccination , which we will recommend based on the diseases we see in our area, her age, and other factors. Obesity Obesity can be a significant health problem in Bulldogs. It is a serious disease that may cause or worsen joint problems, metabolic and digestive disorders, back pain and heart disease. Instead, give her a hug, brush her fur or teeth, play a game with her, or perhaps take her for a walk. Everything from fleas and ticks to ear mites can infest her skin and ears. Hookworms, roundworms, heartworms , and whipworms can get into her system in a number of ways: drinking unclean water, walking on contaminated soil, or being bitten by an infected mosquito. Some of these parasites can be transmitted to you or a family member and are a serious concern for everyone. Spay or Neuter One of the best things you can do for your Bulldog is to have her spayed neutered for males. In females, this means we surgically remove the ovaries and usually the uterus, and in males, it means we surgically remove the testicles. Spaying or neutering decreases the likelihood of certain types of cancers and eliminates the possibility of your pet becoming pregnant or fathering unwanted puppies. Performing this surgery also gives us a chance, while your pet is under anesthesia, to identify and address some of the diseases your dog is likely to develop. For example, if your pet needs hip X-rays or a puppy tooth extracted, this would be a good time. This is convenient for you and easy for your friend. Routine blood testing prior to surgery also helps us to identify and take precautions for common problems that increase anesthetic or surgical risk. Genetic Predispositions for Bulldogs Bone and Joint Problems A number of different musculoskeletal problems have been reported in Bulldogs. While it may seem overwhelming, each condition can be diagnosed and treated to prevent undue pain and suffering. Both hips and elbows are at risk for dysplasia, an inherited disease that causes the joints to develop improperly and results in arthritis. You may notice that he begins to show lameness in his legs or has difficulty getting up from lying down. We can treat the arthritis—the sooner the better—to minimize discomfort and pain. Surgery is sometimes a good option in severe and life-limiting cases. Keep in mind that overweight dogs may develop arthritis years earlier than those of normal weight, causing undue pain and suffering! When Bulldog puppies are allowed to grow too quickly, the cartilage in their joints may not attach to the bone properly. This problem is known as osteochondritis dissecans or OCD. If this occurs, surgery may be required to fix the problem. Feed a large-breed puppy diet rather than an adult or a regular puppy diet. Weigh your puppy every three to four weeks. The cranial cruciate ligament is one of the four tough bands of tissue that hold each knee together. A torn cranial cruciate ligament is a common injury in active dogs, which includes your English Bulldog. Usually surgical correction is done to stabilize the knee and help prevent crippling arthritis. Physical therapy and multimodal pain management are necessary to get the best outcome. Keeping him at the right weight, feeding a high-quality diet, and avoiding too much twisting of the knees like playing Frisbee are key in avoiding this painful injury. Spinal Deformities Bulldogs are more likely than other canines to be born with spinal deformities a condition called hemivertebrae , which may lead to spinal cord damage, instability, or disability. Unfortunately, Bulldogs can inherit or develop a number of different eye conditions, some of which may cause blindness if not treated right away, and most of which can be extremely painful! We will evaluate his eyes at every examination to look for any signs of concern. Distichiasis is a condition caused by extra hairs that grow inside of the eyelid and rub on the surface of the eye. This is one of the most commonly inherited diseases in dogs, and your Bulldog is more likely than other dogs to develop this painful condition. If untreated, these abnormal hairs can cause corneal ulcers and chronic eye pain. Several treatment options are available, and the prognosis is good once the hairs have been permanently removed. Entropion is a condition where the eyelid rolls inward, causing the eyelashes to rub against the cornea surface of the eyeball. This is an extremely irritating and painful condition that can ultimately lead to blindness. It can happen in any dog breed; however, your Bulldog is especially at risk for this heritable disorder. Surgical correction is usually successful if performed early. Dry eye, also known as keratoconjunctivitis sicca or KCS, is common in Bulldogs. The tear glands no longer produce enough tears to keep the eye moist, which results in sore, itchy eyes and infections. Symptoms include a thick discharge, squinting, pawing at the eye, or a dull, dry appearance of the eye. This is a painful condition; please call us immediately if you notice any of these signs. Dogs have a third eyelid that contains a gland that produces about one-third of the fluid that bathes the eye. If the gland is sore or swollen, it looks like a red blob in the corner of the eye. This condition is called cherry eye, and it can occur very suddenly in one or both eyes. If this happens to him, we may treat it with ointment first, but surgery is often the best option. Bladder or Kidney Stones There are a few different types of stones that can form in the kidney or in the bladder, and Bulldogs are more likely to develop them than other breeds. Call us immediately! Respiratory Distress Syndrome This disease, also known as brachycephalic syndrome, affects dogs with a short nose, like your Bulldog. As a consequence, the soft palate the soft part at the back of the roof of the mouth , is too long and hangs down into the airway. The nostrils are often too small, and sometimes the trachea, or windpipe, is narrow and undersized. All of these things lead to a narrow and obstructed airway. Many of these dogs can barely breathe! Watch for exercise intolerance, loud breathing, coughing, bluish gums, or fainting. With his short nose, he is also more likely to develop other problems, such as flatulence from excessive air intake, pneumonia from aspirating food, or heat stroke. In severe cases, surgical correction may be recommended. Bleeding Disorders There are several types of inherited bleeding disorders that occur in dogs. They range in severity from very mild to very severe. Many times a pet seems normal until a serious injury occurs or surgery is performed, and then severe bleeding can result. Reproductive Difficulties Breeds with a large head and small pelvis are more prone to difficulties during the birthing process. Her pelvis is just too small to pass puppies and a C-section is often required for her health and that of her puppies. If you are interested in breeding your English Bulldog, speak with us first. We can help you make an informed decision based on body conformation of both sire and dam. Heart Disease Bulldogs are prone to multiple types of heart disease , which can occur both early and later in life. Veterinary dental care and weight control go a long way in preventing heart disease. Multiple Skin Problems Your English Bulldog is susceptible to different kinds of skin infections and diseases. One of them is caused by yeast Malassezia dermatitis. When it infects the ears, it causes itching, redness, and an accumulation of brown waxy discharge. On the skin, it leads to greasy, hairless areas, especially on the neck and throat, with a characteristic odor. Another common skin disease called seborrhea can cause dry, flaky skin or greasy, oily skin. These diseases make your pet itchy and uncomfortable. The earlier you call to have his skin problems checked, the less likely it is that you will end up caring for an itchy, bald, smelly dog. Mange Demodex is a microscopic mite that lives in the hair follicles of dogs. All dogs have them. In mild cases, pet owners may notice a few dry, irritated, hairless lesions. These often occur on the face or feet and may or may not be itchy. Secondary skin infections may occur. Prompt veterinary care is important to keep the disease from getting out of hand. Many pets seem to outgrow the problem, while others require lifelong management. Laryngeal Paralysis Older Bulldogs may develop this disease, in which the vocal cords become paralyzed and hang down into the airway. Watch for noisy breathing, especially when exercising or in hot, humid weather. In severe cases a pet can collapse and have difficulty breathing. Mild cases can be managed with changes at home and possibly medication. Cancer Cancer is a leading cause of death in older dogs. Your English Bulldog will likely live longer than many other breeds and therefore is more prone to get cancer in his golden years. Many cancers are cured by surgically removing them, and some types are treatable with chemotherapy. Early detection is critical! Dental Abnormalities Teeth abnormalities are often genetically induced and are relatively common in dogs, especially in purebred dogs like your Bulldog. An overbite or underbite is called a malocclusion, or a bad bite. Oligodontia is a condition where only a few teeth are present. Misaligned teeth can also occur and cause lots of problems, but can usually be corrected with braces or extractions. Yes, dogs can get braces! Taking Care of Your Bulldog at Home Much of what you can do to keep your dog happy and healthy is common sense, just like it is for people. Be sure to adhere to the schedule of examinations and vaccinations that we recommend for her. Another very important step in caring for your pet is signing up for pet health insurance. There will certainly be medical tests and procedures she will need throughout her life and pet health insurance will help you cover those costs. Routine Care, Diet, and Exercise Build her routine care into your schedule to help your English Bulldog live longer, stay healthier, and be happier during her lifetime. We cannot overemphasize the importance of a proper diet and exercise routine. Supervise your pet as you would a toddler. Keep doors closed, pick up after yourself, and block off rooms as necessary. She has low grooming needs. Brush her coat as needed, at least weekly. Clean her ears weekly, even as a puppy. Her deep wrinkles need to be cleaned and dried often to prevent infections. As an adult she can have a tendency to be lazy, so you must ensure she receives adequate exercise by providing a daily walk. She is sensitive to temperature extremes; avoid any prolonged exposure and be very alert to the signs of heat stress. Feed a high-quality diet appropriate for her age. What to Watch For Any abnormal symptom could be a sign of serious disease, or it could just be a minor or temporary problem. The important thing is to be able to tell when to seek veterinary help, and how urgently. Many diseases cause dogs to have a characteristic combination of symptoms, which together can be a clear signal that your Bulldog needs help. How to care for your English bulldog puppy Posted on by Kiran English bulldogs are one of the exclusive dog breeds known for their cuteness and sturdiness at the same time. This bulldog breed is one of the ideal choices to have as a pet. Belonging to the brachycephalic dog breeds, English bulldog puppies often requires additional care. As a pet lover who owns an English bulldog puppy, there are certain factors you need to consider to ensure optimum health of your pooch, continue reading to get an insight about some of the important factors. Diet schedule As puppies require additional nutrient supplement when compared to the adult bulldogs, you can start feeding your puppy thrice a day, at least for the first four months. From the fifth month, you can cut back to feeding him twice a day and once he is a year old, you are good to feed him only once a day. Even though, he will happily accept all the anything edible item that you give him, it can be dangerous to his system. Always restrain your dog from ingesting the following food items, which can be toxic to his system. Chocolate: can have adverse affect on his heart and nervous system Avocado : can cause diarrhea or vomiting Alcohol: can cause intoxication Walnuts: known to affect the nervous system of English bulldog puppies and even cause muscle damage Caffeine: can induce diarrhea and vomiting Monitoring health Once you have bought your English bulldog puppy home, it is crucial to have a close eye on him for the first couple of weeks. It is during this period, he will be experiencing several changes from diet to medications. Keep him hydrated by giving him plenty of fresh water; the strategy can also help you to prevent him from eating a lot than necessary. Health checkup and treatment against pests Your new guest can easily fall prey to different pests like ticks, fleas, lice etc. Closely monitor your puppy, scan his skin for any irritations caused by excessive scratching and also look for redness in skin. If you find any abnormal skin issues, you need to take him to a local veterinarian. While you are at the veterinary clinic, you can subject your puppy for a complete checkup to sort out any issues pertaining to ear, heart, lung etc. It is important to get the ear of your bulldog inspected by the veterinarian; pests like tick and mites can easily find their way through to his ears to make a living out of the dirt and debris. Therefore, while you are at home with him, always give special attention if he seems to scratch his ears or shake his head excessively. English bulldog puppies are always an ideal choice as pets, as a caring pet owner, it is your duty to spend some time with your pooch, train and let him socialize at a very young age. Blog Posts. Their massive, short-faced head and equally massive body are a stark contrast to their very gentle dispositions. They are also very resolute, calm, and dignified dogs. Their medium and compact size, combined with their large, projected jaws, make them appear powerful and strong. Aside from their wide and flat face, the extra layers of skin on their skull, forehead, and around the mouth are also distinguishing characteristics of bulldogs. They have a short coat, which comes in different shades: white, fawn, red, red brindle, pale yellow, piebald, or a combination of any of these, and they have naturally short and curled tails. Bulldogs make good companion dogs, and as they are known to be excellent with children, forming strong bonds with them, they make excellent family dogs. A bulldog enjoys spending time with its owner and being a part of their daily activities. While a bulldog is not a very demanding breed attention-wise, it should still not be left alone for long periods of time, as it may get restless and become destructive. A bulldog will be content just sitting or sleeping at your feet, as long as it has your company. Bulldogs have a unique intelligence — a bulldog does not simply strive to please its owner by immediately and eagerly obeying their every command. This seeming lack of obedience is often mistaken for a lack of intelligence by many people. However, a bulldog, is actually a very responsible dog with a lot of common sense. You could say that this breed has the tendency to think for itself rather than just blindly following orders. This trait is unique to bulldogs, and is what makes it appealing to some more knowledgeable dog owners. Bulldogs are not yappers, and really only bark when necessary; but on the other hand, because of their flat noses, they tend to snore loudly when they sleep. Make sure that this sort of noise is something you can tolerate before you decide to look for English bulldog puppies for sale! Being separated from its mother will also make the first few days a difficult experience for the puppy. Your puppy will be missing the company of its mother and siblings, and for this reason, will need the comfort of your company; make sure you can provide your puppy with the time and attention it needs during the first few days after you take it home, to help him adjust and settle in. Have a comfortable bed, or a crate with a blanket ready for your bulldog puppy; place an old blanket inside the crate so it will have something soft and warm to snuggle up against, to make it feel comfortable and secure right away. During the first few nights it may help your puppy sleep if you place a hot water-bottle and a ticking clock, securely wrapped in a blanket, in its bed. Kongs are extremely robust, and make great chew toys for bulldogs. Maintain this diet for a few days and then gradually switch to the food that you want to give it. Most commercial pet foods are nutritionally balanced to ensure your puppy gets the necessary nutrients for healthy growth and development, and to maintain optimal overall health. Always have fresh water available. If you engage in a lot of physical activities outdoors and prefer having your dog with you, a bulldog may not be the ideal breed for you. Alternatively, you can just leave your pet at home and take it out for a short walk every day. A bulldog is actually happy just staying inside, and it is never a good idea to leave a bulldog alone outside for long periods, as they are prone to overheating due to their short flat noses. However, a bulldog does still require some time outdoors, as like any other dog, it will engage in destructive behavior if it is cooped up indoors for longer than 10 hours at a time. As they should also be socialized with other dogs, a walk to the local dog park will provide both physical and mental stimulation.

There is a lot of talk about black Boxers dogs; some potential puppy buyers will actively seek out this colored puppy, but their searching is in vain. It may be hard to believe it when you see photos, but black boxers do not exist — the color gene responsible for black coat color does not exist within the breed. Brindle is a pattern of color, it is a striping effect. With most brindle Boxers, the dark stripes are clearly over a fawn background. However, with Boxer dogs that appear to have a black coat, this is due to super heavy reserve brindling. In fact, it can be so dark and so thick, that you cannot see any fawn beneath it. This gives the dog a very dark coat that does indeed appear to be black. Here, we'll go into the facts a bit more to talk about why black cannot exist with the breed and some myths are swirl about regarding this perceived coat color. Why Colors are Misinterpreted It is very easy to see a dog and immediately assume that he is a certain color, based on what your eyes are telling you. However, with some breeds, the Boxer included, you must take a second look. It is sometimes only when you realize how brindle can cause an effect of sorts, that makes a first impression of black, that it starts to make sense. In addition, some Boxers are given the term of black; however, in many cases, this is a shortened term that comes from longer 'black brindle'. The base color of all purebred Boxers is fawn. Brindles are actually fawn with a brindle marking. Those markings are made of a pattern for fur consisting of black striping which covers the fawn… Sometimes just a bit lightly brindled and sometimes a lot a heavily brindled dog. A black Boxer with white flash? Your eyes are playing tricks on you. This pup is super dark reverse brindle with white markings. Cassandra, 5 months old Photo couresty of Christopher Many wonder if perhaps there were black Boxers that were mostly bred out of the lines and that perhaps now and again a dog with a black coat shows up somewhere. However, if we look to the record keeping of the past century, we can see that this is not the case. In this year time period, a black Boxer appeared once, however there is a catch to this. In the Germany, in the late 's a Boxer was paired with a mixed dog that was part Bulldog and part Schnauzer. The resulting litter had puppies that had black coats. Since another breed was introduced into the bloodline, they were not purebreds. These dogs were not used for any further breeding and therefore did not have any influence on genetics going forward. Once in a while there will be a breeder that claims to have black Boxers and will point to this one incident long ago as evidence that black does indeed run in the bloodline. However, since those mixed dogs with black coats were never used for any sort of develop program this simply does not hold true. Another element that shows that this coloring does not exist in the Boxer line is the rule that the Munich Boxer Club created in .This group had stringent control over breeding and development of Boxers in Germany and set the guidelines for the standard, conformation and all elements regarding appearance including coloring. This group did not wish for any experimenting to be done that would introduce the color black and for this reason they made a clear rule that black Boxers would not be accepted. Some make the argument that programs may have ignored this ruling and still attempted to breed black Boxers. However it would have not been in their best interest to do so and additionally, any resulting dogs would have not been part of the Munich Boxer Club since they couldn't have been registered there. This means that any such hypothetical dogs could not have genetically been included in the Boxer's bloodline since they would have been barred from any programs that were developing and perfecting the breed. So, now that we know: This color does not exist in the line The only record of any black Boxer in the last century was a mixed dog and not a purebred Guidelines and strict rules of of the club in Munich that was the foundation of today's Boxers clearly excluded black Boxers.And it is also fair to say: The chance of there being some odd, rare gene mutation that brings black into the coat is extraordinarily rare; mathematically the odds are so low that this can be ruled out Black Boxer puppies cannot be born due to a hidden gene; this is because black is dominant over all other colors. It cannot be recessive, it always comes out over others Why are some people still adamant that this coloring exists? Diesel, at 2 years old Photo courtesy of Brittany Calvert This leads us to the conclusion of only two possibilities in this regard: A 'true' black Boxer simply cannot be a purebred. It is assumed that in this case, it would be done to sell the pups at a higher cost. Some elements to ponder.Their registration papers do not have that color code as an option. Therefore, even if someone verbally dubs a Boxer to have a black coat, the dog - if registered with a recognized club - would officially be another color; and that would most likely be brindle. Since the pup would be handed over to new owners with papers stating he was not black, how can they simultaneously claim to have black Boxer dogs? And this of course, is very unethical. In Summary Every being whether it is a mammal, like a dog, human, etc. These genes determine everything about the being, from skin color to the number legs to where the eyes are.Genes control coat color in dogs, too. In order for a dog to be black, that breed of dog must contain the gene for having a black coat. Boxer dogs do not have that gene. So, there cannot be any black Boxer dogs. It is genetically impossible. A Boxer that is black, or true black with brown points, for example, MUST be a mixed breed or a heavily brindled dog. Conclusion There is a lot of talk about black boxer dogs; some potential puppy buyers will actively seek out this colorful puppy, but their search is in vain. It may be hard to believe when you see pictures, but black Boxers do not exist! The color gene responsible for the black coat color does not exist within the breed. If you "see" a black Boxer, if he is a purebred Boxer, he must be a very dark tiger. In this case, what happens is that the animal is tiger - yes, with the same stripes that the tiger has. In the "black" boxer these stripes are so dark that it is almost impossible to see them with the naked eye. Because of this, many believe that this breed has black dogs, but genetically, they are tiger boxers. This gives the dog a very dark coat that, in fact, appears to be black. Here, we'll get into the facts a little more to talk about why black cannot exist with the breed and some myths regarding this perceived coat color. Why Colors are Misinterpreted It is very easy to see a dog and immediately assume it is a certain color based on what its eyes are telling you. However, with some breeds, the Boxer included, you should take a second look. Sometimes it's only when you realize how tigerish can cause an effect, that it makes a first impression of black, that it starts to make sense. Also, some boxers are given the term black; however, in many cases, this is a shorthand term that comes from "tiger black". Boxer Puppy Black Brindle The base color of all purebred Boxers is fawn a coloration between brown and yellow. Brindles are actually fawns with a brindle marking. These markings are made of a coat pattern consisting of black stripes covering the fawn.Black Boxer Coloring History Many wonder if perhaps there were black boxers who were largely bred off the lines and that maybe once in a while a dog in a black coat would show up somewhere. However, if we look at the record keeping of the last century, you can see that this is not the case. In this year period, a black Boxer has appeared once, but there is a problem with that. The resulting litter had puppies that had black coats. Once another breed was introduced into the lineage, they were not purebreds. These dogs were not used for any further breeding and therefore had no influence on the genetics hereafter. Once in a while there will be a breeder who claims to have black Boxers and will point to this long ago incident as evidence that black really does run in the bloodline. However, since these mixed dogs with black coats have never been used for any kind of development program, this is simply not true. Another element that shows that this coloration does not exist in the Boxer line is the rule that the Munich Boxer Club created in .This group had a strict control over the breeding and development of Boxers in Germany and established the guidelines for the standard, conformation and all appearance-related elements, including coloration. Some argue that the shows may have ignored this decision and still attempted to breed black Boxers. However, it would not have been in their interest to do so, and furthermore, the resulting dogs would not have been part of the Munich Club, as they could not have been registered there. This means that any of these hypothetical dogs could not have been genetically included in the Boxer lineage, as they would have been barred from any program that was developing and perfecting the breed. So, now that we know: This color does not exist in the line; The only record of any black Boxer in the last century was a mixed-breed dog, not a purebred; Strict guidelines and rules of the club in Munich, which was the basis of today Boxers clearly excluded black Boxers.And it's also fair to say: The chance that there is some strange and rare genetic mutation that brings black to the coat is extraordinarily rare; mathematically the chances are so low that this can be ruled out; Black Boxer puppies cannot be born due to a hidden gene; this is because black is dominant over all other colors. It cannot be recessive, it always comes out of the others. Why are some people still convinced that this coloration exists? This leads us to the conclusion of only two possibilities in this regard: A 'true' black Boxer simply cannot be a purebred, there must be another breed in the lineage; The Boxer is not black and is actually a very spotted dog or a reverse brindle; What about the breeders who claim to have massive blacks? It is always possible that some very inexperienced breeders who have a litter of dark puppies will simply call them black dogs; An unethical breeder may purposely be misleading to appear to have 'special' dogs that are 'rare'. It is assumed that in this case it would be done to sell the puppies at a higher cost. Some Elements to Consider Any puppy that is sold and verbally deemed to be a black Boxer cannot be registered as such. Here in Brazil there is still no regulation about it, but the international rules say a lot about it. Black Boxer Puppies Their registration documents do not have that color code as an option, so even if someone verbally nominates a Boxer to have a black coat, the dog - if registered with a recognized club - would officially be another color; and that would likely be brindle. Since the puppy would be given to new owners with documents saying he was not black, how can they claim to have black Boxer dogs? Keeping the above in mind, if a Boxer showed up with registration papers that showed he had a black coat, those papers would need to come from some little known club that was not reputable or the papers would have to be forged. And that, of course, is very unethical. Conclusion Every being be it a mammal, a dog, a human being, etc. Those genes determine everything about the being, from skin color to the number of legs to where the eyes are.Genes control coat color in dogs too. For a dog to be black, that breed of dog must contain the gene to have a black coat. Boxer dogs don't have that gene. So there can be no black Boxer dog, it's genetically impossible. A Boxer that is black, or true black with brown dots, for example, must be a mixed breed or a heavily spotted dog. Black and White Boxer puppies There are quite a number of myths about the color of the black and white boxer puppies. The genetic combination of a black boxer puppy will play a huge role in determining its overall color. White boxer puppies lack melanin, the hormone responsible for the black pigmentation that ideally black boxer puppies ought to have. Mostly, white boxer puppies are associated with some deformities like deafness and are more prone to sunburns due to the lack of melanin. Black Boxer puppies Many dog lovers search for the pure black boxer puppy. It can be a bit hard to judge from photos of dogs that breeders claim to be pure black boxer puppies. Black boxer puppies have a very dark coat naturally that is also very thick. In the case of getting pure black boxer puppies, you need to look very carefully because the color can deceive your eyes. Never judge the color of the boxer in the first look. There are some black boxer puppies who are black in color and some just have a dark brindle. Image Source 3. Health of the black boxer dog Just like any other dog breed, the black boxer dog breed is also prone to some health issues. Some of the leading health issues that affect this breed is that they are likely to suffer from cancer, heart conditions like boxer cardiomyopathy, hyperthyroidism, hip dysplasia and even epilepsy. The main cause of death being stillbirth and infection. Remember, the original black boxer puppy was a hybrid of the English bulldog and the Bullenbeisser , which is now an extinct breed. The sole cause of infections among the current black boxer dog is as a result of inbreeding with other dog breeds. About .The lifespan of the black boxer dogs was therefore estimated to be an average of 10 years. Before you make your purchase from any breeder, make sure that you screen the black boxer dog to find out if he is likely to have any of these health conditions. This will greatly determine the lifespan of the black boxer puppy. Diet and nutrition of the black boxer dog The black boxer dog is a very energetic breed. This essentially means that you have to be very keen on the quality of dog food that you feed your furry friend. High quality wet dog food is recommended for the black boxer dog. Their diet should generally contain high amounts of calories because of their energy expenditure. You should mostly feed your black boxer dog meals which contain lean animal protein like lean chicken or fish which is a good source of omega-3 fatty acids. You also need to be aware of the fact that black boxers may be vulnerable to dental issues hence have a high likelihood of developing bad breath. This is one of the reasons why you need to avoid dry dog food, especially cheap and low quality food. Always give your dog plenty of clean and fresh water to help maintain good oral hygiene and to keep him well hydrated. Weight and height of the black boxer dog The black boxer dog is generally a medium-sized dog. The male dog weighs approximately between kgs and the female counterpart too. The only difference between the male and female black boxer dogs is the height. The male can grow to a height of between cm and the female between cm. Image Source 7. The black boxer dog is quite a harmless one when it comes to family and has a very warm and social personality. However, this dog can be distrustful to strangers. The black boxer dog is the perfect family dog because of their patience and protective nature, especially around children. This dog breed is a very playful and energetic one hence a favorite of many children. Boxers can also be quite headstrong so you need to take them through thorough obedience training. Naturally, boxers are not an aggressive breed and they have natural guardian instincts too. Socialization The black boxer is a very friendly dog, which makes it easy for you to socialize your puppy. The dog gets along well with both humans and other animals. They generally love companionship and will immediately get along fine with strangers once their natural instinct assures them it is okay to do so. However, you need to know that black boxer dogs may not be very patient when it comes to larger adult dogs, especially those of the same sex. Boxers are generally patient with smaller dog breeds. In case you take your boxer out the dog park, one that is frequented by smaller dog breeds will be a good place to begin socialization. Recommended: Check the brain training for dogs program here 9. What is the price of a black boxer puppy? The price of the black boxer puppy is expected to be relatively higher than the price of other dog breeds. This is because of the fact that the black boxer is a rare breed and they are not very easy to get. Breeders who sell black boxer puppies sell them a bit expensive because this dog has a really beautiful black coat that is very thick and dark hence making him a very attractive breed. You need to be prepared to dig deep in your pockets to get one of these lavish black boxer puppies. Are black boxers rare? Getting a pure bred black boxer dog can prove to be quite difficult due to the extinction of one of the parent species, the Bullenbeiser. However, you can get black and white boxer puppies as well as crossbreeds of the black boxer dog. Real black boxers do not exist anymore. The gene that is responsible for the rich dark color is extinct and not available in the existing breeds. Never be misguided by some greedy breeders who claim to have the pure black boxer dog breed. Conclusion In conclusion, the black boxer dog was one of a kind. The current breeds are a crossbreed between the black boxer dog and another breed. This existing breed may have a fur coat that is a mixture of black and white, hence a black and white boxer dog or brown. The boxer is a great family dog and has a warm temperament too. The breed is also a friendly one hence very easy to socialize with both humans and other canines. Always give your boxer plenty of physical exercise because this dog is very energetic and needs the exercise to develop healthy and strong bones. Good nutrition is also very important to lower the risk of your boxer suffering from illnesses that can be avoided. Featured Image Credit: Source.

Rumors of luv Remi Welcome to Rumors of luv boxers, we started about 20 years ago. We started with a wonderful American champion bloodline. We go back 6 to 7 generations in our breeding program with good longevity. We introduced some amazing European lines over the last 15 years to give more bone structure and squarer heads. One important character is disposition, we only breed leveled headed, easy to train and very intelligent boxers. We strive for the best, especially when it comes to health! To inquire rumorsboxers yahoo. Thank you for visiting and God bless! Some of our girls are our 3rd and 4th generation! We continue these outstanding bloodlines because of their good health, temperament and conformation! We will not keep nor breed any boxer in our breeding program. We strive for having the best quality! Way to go Abby!! Abby is the lighter brindle. Hello Everyone,I wanted to share this email with you from one of my clients. Hi Corie, I am pleased to tell you Mr. She was tested separately with Steve and I handling her. The tester was impressed with her not only as a Boxer specimen but for her calm, friendly, and tolerant temperament. Abby is the first Boxer she has certified as a Pet Therapy Dog. Passing this test means the world to me! Abby can work with me bringing joy and comfort to children with Intellectual disabilities complicated by medical issues. I give thanks to Dr. Karen Gerlick owner of Doc? I never under estimate what you do! Sir Samson will now start on the road to Pet Therapy Dog. He is a shoe in LOL. Samson is good at obedience but lacks some grace for agility. He is gaining his grace and speed now that he has slowed down in growing. Thank you so much for allowing us to own not one but two of your Boxers! Hope all is well with you and your family. The pictures of your new home are great. When the day comes when we are looking for another Boxer pup to add to our home we will be calling you. After all Boxers are like chips you can? My youngest son will be looking for a puppy sometime late summer or fall and he wants a Boxer. I wonder why he picked the breed? We enjoy seeing all of your new pups and truly appreciate your dedication as a breeder. Please ADD 3. Thank you, we appreciate your understanding! Welcome Testimonials "Can't be happier with our Rosie who we picked up November .Great temperment, easy to train, and the friendliest fun loving girl ever. We are already thinking of another o.These Boxers are amazing. Top of the line Their temperament, their disposition, their health.I have 3 amazing boxer babies from t.Questions about Boxer puppies for sale in New York? We have answers. How much are Boxer puppies for sale in New York? There are a lot of factors to take into account when you are looking for Boxer puppies for sale New York. Breeders will price their Boxers differently based on factors like gender, color, size, eye color, and more. Will I only find local Boxer pups here? No, you will find Boxers from all over the country. Our network of breeders and businesses is located all over the country, including New York Boxer breeders and those in other states. They are experienced at transporting pups safely and securely, so wherever you find your perfect pup, you can go and meet them at your nearest major airport. Do you screen and vet the breeders in the network? We are very strict when it comes to adding Boxer breeders New York to our network, and only the best are approved. We have a strict set of standards that must be met. We take ethics, cleanliness, legal compliance, and more into account, so you can search for Boxer puppies for sale in New York with complete peace of mind. You can search online for Boxer puppies New York, but be aware that what you are likely to find are the Boxer New York breeders that are just best at marketing. There is absolutely no guarantee they are the best. Puppy mills are sometimes chosen by people looking for the cheapest Boxer puppies in New York they can find. But puppy mills are best avoided. They are like factories for dogs where proper breeding practices are often not followed. And dogs who are not bred properly can be more prone to developing harmful behavioral problems and health issues. Are Boxer puppies available right now? Do you have something very specific in mind for your puppy when you begin searching for a Boxer for sale New York? Then search our network today to find exactly what you want. We have a huge number of businesses and breeders in our network, and they have lots of Boxer puppies to choose from, making it easier than ever to find your perfect puppy. Where exactly do Boxer dogs come from? Boxers were bred as guard dogs in the s from a mix of dogs including the Bulldog and the German Bullenbeisser. They quickly became popular for their mix of desirable characteristics including strength, loyalty, intelligence, and playfulness. What are Boxers like? Boxers are famously clownish in their behavior, and they just love goofing around. They are also very intelligent and incredibly loyal. If you find a New York Boxer for sale, they make great guard dogs and will take their job of looking after you and your family very seriously. How big are Boxers normally? Boxers are characterized as medium to large dogs. However, as with all dog breeds, some will be larger than others. On average, fully grown Boxers usually weigh between about 60 and 70 pounds. If I live in an apartment, can I still get a Boxer? As Boxers are dogs with a lot of energy, you may be wondering whether they are suitable for apartment living. The answer is yes! But just keep in mind when you look for Boxers for sale New York that they will need a lot of exercise. Daily exercise is essential, so make sure you take them out for a long walk or two.

Below is baby english bulldog puppies week by week. Variables such as temperature, air movement, and nutrient intake must be tightly controlled. Puppies are kept separate from their mother to ensure they are not laid on nor neglected. Your English Bulldog Baby at this age, most often do not have their eyes open yet. Instead they rely on their sense of hearing to know where their mom is and the other littermates. Week 3 The third week of life is a big week as major, physical development and progress are made during this week. The baby bulldogs should begin cracking their eyes open and begin developing their new found eyesight. Increased visibility adds a small level of independence that is certainly appreciate. The young puppies are now able to locate their mother and nurse more consistently on their own. During this week, we most often make the decision to leave the litter with their mother permanently. Mom will take on the responsibility of not only nursing the puppies but also cleaning up after them. This also means we are able to get a full night of sleep! What do we look for in a good Bulldog mother? Bulldog mom has to have a genetically clean pedigree history. We make sure each bulldog line that we produce has the best chance to stay healthy and happy. Bulldog mom has to have a great personality. We demand that all the bulldogs we own are extremely confident and great with both children and other pets. Breeding bulldogs with great personalities is very important as many social traits are passed from the parents to the baby. Bulldog mom has to have a great maternal instinct. Because the babies are so vulnerable we try to select and keep female English Bulldogs that show endearing and caring traits towards their babies. Week 4 Week four is our walking week! While bulldog puppies do begin to walk earlier at times, typically during week four we begin to see some major walking. The new found mobility is a joy to watch but does present some different types of responsibility as our bulldog puppies certainly can get themselves into trouble! During this week, we will start to perform some basic socialization steps to ensure that they are prepared for their new homes. Week 5 The puppies are now able to run, chew, and yes, sometimes bite! With the physical progress there are certainly ample teaching opportunities to develop these little guys into well behaving bulldogs. During this time we continue to analyze each puppy socially and develop unique, social profiles of each bully. The puppies start to focus less on physical survival and devote much of their time to playing with their littermates. This is a great learning environment for the puppies! This mushy treat quickly becomes a favorite for the pups. A robust bulldog puppy can now weigh around 5 pounds. The puppies will also undergo their first round of vet checks to ensure they are developing physically sound bodies. Socially, we continue work with the puppies to ensure they are exposed to the many different environments of the new homes they will be going to all while balancing a high level of biosecurity to ensure they are not exposed to harmful diseases to ensure for a healthy English Bulldog! The puppies are now old enough and confident enough in themselves to begin developing expectations. Being held and being fed are no longer special occasions rather they are rights to life that are demanded. We continue to provide the high level of care that we hold ourselves to while developing flexibility within each bulldog pup. Week 8 The theme for week 8 is adoption preparation. We will make a decision with our vet the age in which the bulldogs are able to be taken home. The primary variable within this decision is physical development. Most of our bulldogs will go home right around the end of week 9 all the way to week .It simply depends on the bulldog. At this point we encourage our adopters to finish prepping for their puppy. Northern Indiana based, Bruiser Bulldogs offers purebred English Bulldog Puppies for sale to loving adopters seeking to find a higher quality English Bulldog. As English Bulldog breeders , Mitch and Erica Wysong have dedicated themselves to a lifelong journey of changing the culture and societal pressures of poor breeding practices within the English Bulldog Community. Mitch and Erica believe in producing a healthy English Bulldog puppy first and foremost. Through years of research and development, Bruiser Bulldogs is leading a new movement away from the overdone, wrinkled bulldog that has been long plagued by health problems. By embracing a healthier, more athletic look they are able to ensure that each and every English Bulldog Puppy for sale by Bruiser Bulldogs is supported by a platform of health tested, clean genetics. Upon adoption, each family that takes on the responsibility of a Bruiser Bulldog enters into an active and vibrant communal family of bulldog owners. Mitch and Erica believe it is their responsibility to provide emotional and mental support for the lifetime of each and every English Bulldog puppy they produce. To ensure the success of every adoption, Bruiser Bulldogs will always be committed to helping Bruiser Bulldog adopters care for their English Bulldogs to the best of their ability. I am familiar with common and uncommon health problems they may face so when my boyfriend and I decided we were ready to adopt our own english puppy finding a reputable breeder that prioritizes health was most important to us. Erica and Mitch of Bruiser Bulldogs are just that. They are experienced, ethical and quality breeders. I was referred to them by my friend that I trust after I saw their gorgeous healthy puppy. Our Puppy Primrose is the light of our lives! Bruisers was there to assist us every step of the way. We would highly recommend Bruisers Bulldogs to anyone looking for their own happy, healthy pup! Leah H. We were lucky to have come across Bruiser Bulldogs and even more so the fact that they were near our family and hometown made it even better. We have had Clementine Callie for four months now, and she is a wonderful dog. Her personality is amazing, and I think part of it is breeding and the other part is Erika and her family lovingly raising the puppies in their home with plenty of attention and snuggles. I also was impressed that, rather than send the puppies out right at 8 weeks, Erika kept ours for a few extra weeks because she was tiny and not read to leave her mom yet. It's that care that differentiates Bruisers from other breeders. Emily R. Erica was easy to work with thru the entire process from application to adopting and now beyond as we host our new family member, Chief. Her on-call support and willingness to provide open, honest advice to all of our questions and concerns continues to be appreciated. We would highly recommend Bruiser Bulldogs to anyone looking for an English Bulldog to join their family. Elizabeth W. Lady L. They are experienced, responsive and knowledgeable about all things bulldog related. They went above and beyond for us and are truly dedicated to all of their pups! We love our little girl so much and would recommend Bruiser to anyone looking for a healthy beautiful bully. Jonathan E. Erica and Mitch are trustworthy, excellent communicators, fair, passionate, and produce the best bulldogs. We were at the top of the waiting list for months and Erica reached out every litter to see if we were finally ready for a bulldog. When we were, she was very easy to work with. Her knowledge on bulldogs is outstanding. We had many questions on the process and she always knew what was best for the puppy. We've had Penny formerly Blair for two months and she is very healthy, energetic, playful, and sweet. She is great with other people and dogs. We are so happy with our pup. When we are ready for bulldog 2, we will only consider Bruiser Bulldogs. Mitch C. Bowser was born April and is an integral part of our family. When we were first exploring English Bulldog breeders our biggest concern was the overall health of the dogs. We decided to work with Erica at Bruiser Bulldogs because we liked their focus on improving the breeds breathing abilities and the fact that the puppies are raised within her family environment before coming home with their new owners. Bowser also breaths clearly and our vet was impressed with his overall health from the moment we brought him home. All that said we know English Bulldogs have a predisposition to many health issues and that his current health can not predict the future. With that In mind its important to start with a breeder that open to answer any of your questions as Erica has ours, and that strongly believes in improving the breeds overall health profile. Adam B. My sister ended up finding Bruiser Bulldogs and we knew right away that they were the breeder for us. In September we ended up driving 9 hours to pick up two Bruiser bulldog puppies- one for my husband and I and one for my mom. Jackson and Penelope have been nothing but a joy. They are both very athletic and healthy. They are also HUGE snugglers and always want to be with you. It is an absolute pleasure having these two bullies in our lives! Erica is very knowledgeable about the breed. She is very hands on throughout the process and is just overall a kind and honest person to work with. With all that being said I cannot recommend Bruiser Bulldogs enough! Collyn C. One of the reasons we chose Bruiser Bulldogs was due to the claims about breeding for health. During our first visit at our vet's office, he told us that our pup was one of the healthiest English bulldogs he had ever seen. He is healthy, happy and social. Would recommend to anyone. Christina S. We seen our dog on their website and sent them an Email. Mitch called us and personally walked us through the process and made sure we had the right dog for our family. We couldn't be happier when we picked up our dog Ramsey, Erica made sure we had everything we needed and then some. They are truly amazing people who breed truly amazing dogs! Jim T. More than other breeds, the bulldog mother may need your help with nursing, feeding and weaning pups. Bulldog Pregnancy and Birth A typical bulldog pregnancy lasts around 63 days. The bulldog's physical shape means that many dogs are unable to give birth to their puppies without assistance -- the female bulldog's pelvis is very narrow and each puppy's head is very large. When puppies are born by caesarean section, the mother dog does not get the full physical and hormonal cues telling her body that the puppies have been born. After a caesarean section, you will need to milk the mother dog's colostrum to feed the newborn pups. This special milk, produced only for a short time after birth, contains antibodies that are important to the health of the newborn pups. If the mother's colostrum is unavailable, you can substitute a commercial colostrum formula. Twenty-four hours after being born, the puppies can drink commercial puppy milk formula if the mother is unable to nurse. Ideally, the puppies will nurse from their mother as soon as possible after being born. Those puppies nursing within the first 12 hours after being born have the best survival chances. Nursing Schedule In the first four to five days, newborn bulldog puppies need to nurse every two hours. It may look as though the pups are feeding more often -- or even constantly -- because not all the mother dog's teats will carry milk at the same time. As they get older, they will need to feed less frequently. Make sure that all the puppies get their turn at the teat during feeding time -- sometimes the larger or stronger pups will push aside smaller or weaker puppies. Bottle Feeding If you are bottle-feeding the puppies, you'll need to do so every two hours, day and night, until they are 6 days old. After that, the puppies can go to a feeding schedule of six to eight feedings every day until they are 3 weeks old, and four feedings daily beyond that point. At each feeding, a puppy should receive 1cc of prepared formula milk for every ounce of its body weight. Transition to Food Around 1 month after birth, puppies typically start eating some soft foods, although they will continue to nurse from the mother until they reach 8 weeks old. As puppies start eating soft foods, you will need to clean out each puppy's facial wrinkles -- the puppies and the mother may be unable to clean their wrinkles completely. If soft food gets stuck in a puppy's wrinkles, it may develop infection or sores. Typically, the mother dog will start to wean the dogs between 5 weeks and 7 weeks after birth. At this point, you can start introducing hard foods such as puppy kibble. More Articles. The potential benefits of raw Swapping Puppy Food Brands When you first bring your Bulldog puppy home you should feed him the same food that he was getting from the breeder or shelter for about three to four weeks. This will give him time to acclimate to his new surroundings and get used to being separated from his mom and siblings. Mix about three-quarters of the puppy food he eats now with one-quarter of the new food for the first two to three days. For the next two or three days give him equal portions of the old and new food. Finally, give him three-quarters of the new food and one-quarter of the old food for two to three days. Bulldog Puppy Diets The sheer number of different puppy foods to choose from can be overwhelming. Your breeder may be able to give you some guidance. Puppies need plenty of protein to promote strong bone, muscle, and joint growth. Guidelines on labels will give you an idea of the amount to feed your puppy, but ultimately each dog is an individual. Their body size, not what the label says, is a better indicator of a proper portion. A serving size can also vary depending on the type of food or brand as well. Special Requirements Bulldogs are a brachycephalic breed. Chewing and swallowing can also be a problem. This is because the palate, teeth, tongue, and tissue are the same size as that of a dog with a much longer muzzle. Many Bulldogs also suffer from brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome which causes serious breathing issues that can also make eating difficult. You might also find combining dry food with a good quality wet food is easier for them to consume. From three to six months, you can reduce it to three times a day. At six to 12 months old, you can feed him twice a day. Bulldogs are highly at risk for hip dysplasia. In fact, this study of 20 English Bulldogs found that none of the hips showed normal development and .Feeding a Bulldog Puppy Kibble Dry kibble is probably the most popular all-round puppy food choice. Make sure you choose a dry formula designed specifically for puppies. However, not all brands are created equal. Stay away from ingredients like corn. The early care and environment of the English Bulldog newborn puppy are very important. Reasons a English Bulldog puppy might die early on are usually due to difficult whelping, congenital or genetic defects, environmental factors i. Things to have handy in case of an emergency: a box of Amoxi-Drops anti-diarrhea medication like Biosol, Kaolin-Pectin, or Neo-Pectilin thermometer Karo syrup or honey tube feeding kit 10 feeding tube and 10cc feeding syringe several cans of puppy formula like Esbilac; however, it is very important that a English Bulldog puppy get its mother's milk if at all possible during the first 5 days to protect it from infection and give it antibodies from the mother's milk You can purchase pre-made formula from your vet and outside of the mother's milk, it is best. However, the following formula is cheaper and provides all the nutrition. It's been used by many people and gives good results: l can Carnation evaporated milk some prefer canned goat's milk. Many use it instead of evaporated milk - both can be found in the bakery section of your grocery store. If this seems to be, change to bottled water to make the formula. Keeping the litter box tempature between degrees with no drafts for the first few days is usually adequate. Other sources of warmth can be heating pads or heat lamps. If using a heating pad, monitor the intensity of heat, as pups have been known to cook on pads set on high settings! There are many excellent heat lamps on the market, but remember that caution is needed. Heat lamps have been known to start fires! The temperature on the English Bulldog puppies 1 inch above the bottom of the box should be about degrees with a corner that is slightly cooler and allow them to scoot to wherever they like best. There should also be plenty of clean blankets, as this will allow for regulation of temperature. If a English Bulldog puppy has its mouth open, it's too hot. If a English Bulldog puppy is too cool, it often won't show anything - but it can be deadly. Hydration is one of the most important things to monitor in new bulldog pups, as it can be one of the first signs of problems. Check hydration by by pinching the skin on the back of the neck or on the top of the back. If the pinched skin stays creased, the English Bulldog puppy is dehydrated and needs fluid replacement. Also, a dehydrated bulldog pup's coat will sometimes have a ruffled or scruffy appearance. Dehydration can either be a result of inadequate nourishment, too much heat, or sickness. It is strongly suggested that you use regular newborn or infant bottles and nipples. The ones available for purchase for cats, dogs, ferrets, etc. Bottle feeding is far more preferable. The sucking on a nipple, the handling and holding of the English Bulldog puppy is so very important to their overall development. The English Bulldog puppy should be held with his head upwards and his body and tail down in a 45 to 90 degreee angle when bottle feeding. If English Bulldog puppies and their blankets are not kept clean, it is very easy to come down with a staph infection and diarrhea - which is serious, as bulldog puppies can go downhill quickly. As mentioned before, it is equally serious if the English Bulldog puppies get chilled so avoid drafts. Even if you have them in a basket with a heating pad, you need to cover the basket with a towel to keep out drafts. A chilled English Bulldog puppy must be warmed up. Put it in a pocket so that it's warm and jiggled as you walk around, or if you are a woman put it in your bra for your body heat. There are lots of little ways to accomplish it. Don't worry about feeding formula to a chilled English Bulldog puppy because it will have the opposite effect: their body cannot handle the food and makes it all the worse for the English Bulldog puppy. Priority should be to get the bulldog puppy warmed up slowly. Newborn English Bulldog puppies cannot regulate their body temperature or body functions like urinating and stools. It is important that they are pottied at each feeding. They might not have a stool each time, but they will urinate. This is what the mother does when she licks them. But some mothers don't want to be bothered, especially the first few days. After that, she will become a good mommy. Some might start off being good, then after a few days, or even a couple of weeks, not want to be bothered and might even be nasty to the puppies such as snapping and biting them. Always be careful and watch. Don't leave her alone until the bulldog pups are big enough not to be laid on, or big enough that you know that the bitch is a good mother. If the mother will not clean the babies, you must be sure to do it. Using a kleenex, gently rub the area to stimulate their potty. Then be sure to clean them well. Make sure to check them even if the mother cleans them. Often the stool will get stuck to the tail and be dry. If that happens, or if the English Bulldog puppy seems to be straining and constipated, try the following: Run warm water in the sink slowly. Put a drop of soap on their behinds, and wash and massage their behinds; it will get the tail and poop unstuck, clean them up, and cause them to potty very well. Make sure they are well rinsed, and dried thoroughly so they don't get chilled. If the little bottoms are red and sore, use some Desitin ointment. You may see green puppy stools and stools that have an appearance of bunches of tiny seeds. If all else seems normal, this seems to be harmless and short-lived. However, watery diarrhea can be very serious if left unchecked. There can be many causes, like the mother's diet, or infection. Diarrhea together with vomiting usually means infection. For the first 3- 5 days an average English Bulldog puppy ouncer will take about 10 cc's every hours. It should be broken into feedings every 2 hours 5cc per feeding. If it is a good sized bulldog puppy 1 lb. Towards the end of a week, you should increase the food needed to about cc or more. For the first week they should eat every two hours. If they are good size bulldog babies, you can sometimes go longer. By the second week, as long as you don't have any problems and they are of good size, you can usually go hours between feedings. An average weight for newborn English Bulldog puppies is around ounces. Good size puppies are oz.

Degenerative Myelopathy Von Willebrand Disease Perhaps the most well-known is hip dysplasia, a condition that causes the hip joint to develop abnormally. This can lead to pain and lameness, and eventually requiring surgery. German Shepherds are also at risk for elbow dysplasia, a similar condition that affects the elbow joint. Other common health problems include allergies, intestinal issues, and eye problems. With proper care and diet, however, German Shepherds can live long and healthy lives. Finding a German Shepherd puppy for sale from a reputable breeder can dramatically — although, not eliminate — the risk of your dog developing some of these conditions. While German Shepherds are often considered to be low-maintenance when it comes to grooming, their coats do require some care and attention. The most important thing to know about German Shepherd coat care is that the breed does not shed uniformly throughout the year. After the shedding period has ended, you can reduce the frequency of brushing to once or twice a week. In addition to regular brushing, German Shepherds also need to be bathed on occasion. How often you need to bathe your German Shepherd will depend on factors such as how often they play outside and whether they have any allergies or skin sensitivities. Generally speaking, however, a once-monthly bath is sufficient for most dogs. German Shepherd Puppies For Sale. Life Span Did You Know? The German Shepherd is one of the most versatile, well-recognized, and popular dog breeds in the world. The modern German Shepherd is descended from a family of various German herding dogs. Breed standards were not developed until the late 19th century when Captain Max von Stephanitz, a German cavalry officer, worked with Arthur Meyer and other breeders to develop the ideal German herding dog. Stephanitz and Meyer wrote the breed standard in and the American Kennel Club recognized the German Shepherd as a member of the Herding Group in .Although they were originally bred as herding dogs, they were also bred for versatility, which made the German Shepherd an all-around working dog that could excel in a variety of applications. German Shepherds are one of the common dog breeds employed in K-9 units in both police and military applications. They also make great service dogs and, of course, are still awesome herding dogs and farm dogs! The German Shepherd is a strong-willed and highly intelligent dog. They have a playful, energetic spirit and tend to get along with children, other dogs, and other pets, which makes them a great family companion. A born protector, the German Shepherd will provide a great sense of security for their family while their loving and lively personality will make them fit right in as a companion. German Shepherds are naturally protective and can be wary of strangers at first. A well-socialized German Shepherd will bark to alert you and tends to warm up to strangers once introduced. German Shepherds are dogs that were bred to herd and work. This, plus their high energy, makes them a better fit for homes with fenced yards where they can run. They can adapt well to larger apartments as long as plenty of time is dedicated to ensuring they get enough exercise, mental stimulation, and attention every day. A bored, ignored, or under-exercised German Shepherd can often become a destructive one. They also can be sensitive to their surroundings and large gatherings can be off-putting. With a longer coat, they tend to prefer cooler climates and are sensitive to heat. The German Shepherd is a generally healthy breed, but there are some potential health concerns and good breeding practices make a big difference. Potential health concerns to be aware of in a German Shepherd include hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia , and degenerative myelopathy. Reputable breeders will screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues to puppies. So, make sure you are asking about the health and genetic history of both parents. You can also ask about any health tests or clearances that have been done. As a barrel-chested breed, the German Shepherd is also at risk for bloat. While the German Shepherd is highly intelligent and highly trainable, they are generally not recommended for novice owners. If you are a novice dog owner, enroll in puppy training classes or enlist the help of a professional dog trainer; not just for your dog, but for yourself as well. Training assistance will help you grow in experience and build a strong bond between you and your German Shepherd puppy, which is essential. Also, the GSD has a thirst for training and fulfillment. They get bored easily and especially with repetition, so continued training with your German Shepherd throughout their life will be necessary. German Shepherds have a medium-to-long double coat. They will shed year-round and heavier as seasons change. Brushing a few times a week is usually sufficient; brushing daily is even better and your GSD will likely love you for it. Bathing is occasional on an as-needed basis. Ear checks weekly with careful cleanings as needed can help prevent ear infections. German Shepherds are high-energy working dogs. Not only do they require a lot of daily activity, but they also are a herding breed that was made to run, guard, and observe, so they need a job to do to be happy and healthy. Daily walks plus playtime, time to run, and other activities are usually enough for a GSD, but they will likely be up for more activity if you are. With their versatility and athleticism, you can try a lot of different activities when puppies finish growing and they are cleared for higher-impact things. A fully-grown German Shepherd usually stands inches tall and weighs pounds. German Shepherds generally live for years on average. Corporal Duncan brought him back to the United States and Rin-Tin-Tin became one of the most famous dog actors in history. Featured German Shepherd Article.

Following the Labrador feeding chart by age will give you a rough idea of how much to feed your puppy. Labradors are known for their playfulness, and sweet disposition, and are good at fetch which is why you should provide them with the best nutrition to support their growth. Ensure that the food contains the right amounts of protein, carbs, fat, and vitamins. You should avoid feeding your Labrador puppy too much food as they are prone to joint issues, but also avoid feeding them less food as they will be malnourished and not reach their growth milestones. Continue reading to understand how much to feed a Labrador puppy. The amount of food that your Labrador puppy should eat depends on a combination of certain factors such as activity level, weight, type, and brand of food. Heavier and bigger puppies need to eat more food than smaller puppies, and dogs that have active lives will need more calories than those living sedentary life. Fortunately, all dog food contains a feeding guideline on the packaging to get you started. It is important that you create and maintain a feeding schedule for your puppy so that they can maintain a healthy weight and develop good habits. Consult your pet nutritionist or vet, to learn more about how much food you should give your specific Labrador. Labrador Feeding Chart By Age A Labrador can be fed between one and six cups of food depending on their level of activity, age, and type of food. The amount will differ from one puppy to the other as every puppy has there own requirements. Therefore, you should follow a feeding guideline that is indicated in the dog food brands or the one designed by your vet. As a Labrador owner, it is important to understand that the nutritional requirements of your puppy are different at each stage as they grow. Therefore, adult and puppy dogs should be trained to eat the correct amount at the right schedule. Ensure that you keep a Labrador puppy feeding chart with you. Calculating the Resting Energy Requirement RER of your puppy and doubling it can help you get the right number of calories to feed them. Feed your puppy a little amount, in the beginning, to ensure that they are ready to eat. If they are not ready, do not force the food on them. Be patient with your puppy and they will be on puppy food soon. The puppy will be relying less on the milk. When your puppy starts eating all the food you offer them, you can reduce the amount of water and increase the food amount. The puppy will start becoming active and start exploring away from the mother as they no longer rely on the mother. By the end of the week into week seven, the puppy will be able to eat just puppy food. Ensure that you feed them dry food that is full of healthy protein. They should be eating three to four times per day and need about 2 cups of food. Avoid free feeding the puppy as it may be hard to know exactly how much they are eating. Create a feeding schedule as early as possible and this will help them develop good habits in the future. Put the food out for only 10 to 15 minutes and take the bowl away if they do not finish. This can be tricky if you are working but it is important that you maintain their feeding schedule as this is a developmental stage. Three meals per day will help your growing puppy develop their digestive system and ensure that they are getting their nutrition. This is also the beginning of the teething stage and they will be biting a lot of things including hard dog food and chew toys. They should eat about two cups of food distributed over three meals. But you should still maintain feeding them two cups of food but can reduce the mealtimes to twice per day. Watch out for the amount of food your puppy eats to avoid them gaining weight. Also, ensure that they are getting enough exercise to burn off the food. So, you should transition them to adult food. Ensure that the switching process is done slowly to avoid causing vomiting and diarrhea to your puppy. Your Labrador can be fed once per day now and the amount reduced to about two cups of food. Understanding Labrador Puppy Nutritional Needs If you stick to feeding your Labrador high-quality food, be assured that they are getting all the necessary nutrients. However, it is useful to know the types of nutrients that they need and the ingredients to watch out for. Carbohydrates — healthy carbs are necessary for providing energy for your puppy. Sources like barley, rice, and oatmeal are great. Healthy carbs can also be found in veggies such as sweet potatoes, peas, and lentils. Fiber — it helps regulate the digestive system of your puppy and helps the stool become healthier and firm. Sources include spinach, chicory root, and beet pulp. Sources include fish oils, fish, canola oils, and fish. Vitamins and Minerals — are needed for improving the immune system which helps in protecting your puppy from diseases. Veggies and real fruits like cranberries and blueberries are great sources. The frequency of feeding your Labrador depends mostly on their age. Puppies need to eat three to four times per day while senior and adult Labradors can eat one to two times per day. Labrador is a breed that is motivated by food, meaning that the chance of them turning down food is low. Given their nature, it can be difficult to figure out whether they are really hungry or just food obsessed. Since they cannot regulate their eating habits, it is important that you develop a feeding schedule to prevent them from gaining weight. Both types of food provide your dog with the best nutrition they need to grow and develop. Also, check the label on the packaging and make sure that it contains the perfect balance of protein, fats, and carbohydrates. Kibble is cheaper than wet foods and stores easily as it does not require refrigeration. It also helps clean the teeth by removing tartar and buildup when your puppy chews it. Wet food also provides balanced and complete nutrition for your Labrador. It provides more hydration to your puppy as it contains high moisture content. However, wet food needs to be put in the fridge once opened otherwise it will go bad. Some dog owners mix wet food and kibble to give their dogs the best of both worlds. Therefore, most premium dog food brands have different specially formulated puppy food. Puppies can be fed with puppy food until they are about 12 to 15 months old then transition to adult dog food. When transitioning your dog from puppy food to adult dog food remember to introduce the feed gradually for about seven to ten days by mixing small amounts of the adult dog food with the puppy food. Decrease the puppy food gradually every day with a simultaneous increase in adult dog food. This will helps the pup o adjust to the new meal easily. Experienced Labrador Retriever owners will tell you that not all puppies eat a lot. Studies also have indicated that puppies eat more when fed with other puppies or in a group. When the puppy gets to a new home, they might go off the food for the first few days. They might eat a few kibbles and then leave it. Your puppy may also prefer to eat from your hand and not the bowl. However, call your vet if your puppy refuses to eat for more than four hours. Call immediately if your puppy looks unwell. There are a few reasons you need to keep an eye on because they indicate serious problems: Your pup neither drink nor eat Diarrhea. Made with real meat and no artificial colors or flavors how much should a lab eat? Allergies Labs can also have allergies. Some dogs may be allergic to wheat, macadamia nuts, etc. It can manifest as a runny nose, high volumes of shedding, rashes on the skin, and so on. Different dietary needs are crucial, especially if they display allergy symptoms. Avoid all types of human foods. You can give your lab puppy supplements You can get great quality adult dog food and puppy kibble from companies like Royal Canin Labrador Retriever, Blue Buffalo, Canidae Grain-Free, etc. Only adult food must be given to labrador retrievers who have crossed 1. Your puppy needs 4 small meals consisting of half a cup of food per meal till he is 2 months old. From 2 to 6 months, he needs 3 meals daily consisting of 1 cup of food per meal. From 6 months onwards , you can give your puppy 2 meals daily of 2 cups of dog food per meal. Is This A Problem? Yes, this is a major problem! Fat dogs are adorable but also extremely unhealthy. An adult labrador retriever should weigh at most pounds. Labs that are fatter than this stand at the risk of obesity, arthritis , and other lifelong diseases. Refrain from feeding your labrador too many dog treats. Onions and garlic: surprisingly, anything in the onion and garlic family is incredibly toxic to dogs. Meat with bones: if not chewed properly, sharp edges can rupture the throat, stomach lining, intestines, and other parts of the digestive tract. Other human foods and beverages to avoid giving your dog are alcohol, sugar, citric fruits, and anything with caffeine. Your labrador retriever should weigh between 55 to 70 pounds at full adulthood. Male labs are heavier than female labs, so they can fall on either side of the optimal weight spectrum. Some healthy treats for your labrador retriever are cut fruits and vegetables. Carrots, celery, cucumber, beetroot, apples, bananas, and berries strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, cranberries, etc. Dogs also love peanut butter! Veggies dipped in peanut butter also make a great snack for your dog. This is entirely up to you as dog owners. If you have the time and patience to cook meals for your dog, go for it. Store-bought food is easier and is filled with the right nutritional requirements for your lab puppy. On the other hand, with the right recipe, home-cooked food works, too. What Should I Do? A dog growling at you when you go near his food bowl is most commonly a trauma response or a way to protect his food. We often see this with rescues. House training your lab puppy is equally important to avoid food aggression. Labrador Retrievers get piddly after their meals. Dog owners must take out their lab puppy as frequently as they eat sometimes even more often to let their energy out and adult labradors less frequently. A lab puppy needs a ton of exercise. The amount of kibble you should feed your Labrador puppy will vary depending on their age, weight, and activity level. A good rule of thumb is to start with cups of kibble daily and adjust as needed. Best Dog Food For Lab Puppies: The best dog foods for lab puppies include those that are high in protein and low in fillers. The food you should feed a black lab puppy is the same as for any other Labrador puppy. A chocolate lab puppy should be fed the same food as for any other Labrador puppy. A 2-year-old chocolate lab should eat about cups of kibble daily. You should stop feeding puppy food to your Labrador at around months of age. At this point, their growth plates will have closed, and they will no longer need the extra nutrients found in puppy food. Labradors live for years. They start to slow down around 7 and may develop some health problems in their senior years. You should also increase their exercise level. Lab breeders feed their dogs high-quality dog food specifically formulated for large-breed puppies. A lab puppy should drink about 1 ounce of water per pound of body weight daily. This amount may increase as they get older and more active. A labrador needs at least 30 minutes of exercise per day. This can be a combination of walking, running, and playing. Golden labs live for years. Chocolate labs live for years same like labs of any color. Labradors lose their baby teeth between 3 and 6 months of age. You can start to transition your puppy to eating twice a day at around 6 months of age. By the time they are 1 year old, they should eat only once daily. You should stop feeding your large breed puppy food at around 18 months of age. Why Are Labs So Hungry? Labradors are a very active breed of dog, and they need a lot of calories to fuel their energy levels. They are also prone to gaining weight, so keep a close eye on their food intake About The Author Shradha Kabra Shradha is a seasoned writer at Labradorandyou. Her experience as a pet owner and dog enthusiast drives her to create meticulously researched and fact-checked content, offering valuable insights on Labrador training, grooming, and health. Each article reflects Shradha's passion and dedication, enriched by personal experiences with her beloved Labradors, Tom, and Kurt. Whether exploring breed-specific training techniques or providing product reviews, Shradha ensures Labrador owners receive the most accurate, up-to-date, and trustworthy information, aimed at enhancing their companions' health and happiness. Table scraps and snacks There are so many different brands of Labrador food available! And so many different opinions on dog food generally. Not to mention the alternatives to commercial food. Labrador Feeding Guide The amount you feed your Lab will vary depending on his age and the type of food you are giving him. The Eukanuba Adult Breed Lamb and Rice food suggests these serving sizes: 40 — 45 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day 50 — 55 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day 60 — 65 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day 70 — 75 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day 80 — 85 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day 90 — 95 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day However, these serving sizes will change depending on the food you use, and only apply to dry kibble! Most experts agree that the best food for any dog is one that keeps him in excellent health at a reasonable price. And choosing the best dog food for Labradors is not straightforward. We will look at the different styles of feeding first. How to feed a Labrador — different methods There are currently two very different approaches to dog feeding that are popular with many Labrador owners. Both methods of feeding have their supporters and detractors. At one time a lot of dogs were fed on canned food with an added biscuit mixer. Nowadays, only a small number of dog owners still feed this way. What about BARF? At one time, raw feeding or what you probably know as the BARF diet was considered to be a cranky and extremist fad. But as interest in raw feeding has grown and more dogs are fed this way, it is becoming clear that they are thriving too. The majority of dogs are now being fed kibble and a substantial and the growing minority are fed raw. Labrador dog food choices — dry kibble By far the majority of Labrador owners nowadays, feed their dogs on kibble. That is the dried pellets of dog food that you can buy in pet stores and online. All major pet food companies now supply a dried version of their brands. Is kibble good for dogs? It is really only a very short time a couple of decades since almost all dogs were fed on canned meat. These are a lot less popular now. The effect that this shift away from wet food and onto dried food, has had if any on canine health remain the subject of intense speculation. Busy modern homes are pressed for time these days. So convenience is an important factor. Storage Not only is kibble convenient, it also stores well, even after opening. Provided that it is stored in an appropriate container and kept in a dry place. Most dogs nowadays are trained with food. But what comes out of a kibble-fed dog smells very unpleasant. These are additional bulking agents that are not fully digested and that pass through straight through the dog. These fillers mean that kibble fed dogs produce much greater quantities of poop and much smellier poop, than dogs fed on raw meat and bones. Kibble fed dogs may also need their teeth cleaning on a daily basis. There may also be a small increased risk of bloat in susceptible dogs fed on a dry food diet. Should I feed my dog raw meat? Over the last ten years a more natural raw diet of meat and bones has become increasingly popular. Some people now believe that raw meat is the best food for Labrador Retrievers and many other breeds of dog. This is despite some websites giving out dire warnings of the dangers of letting dogs consume bones. Unfortunately, raw feeding does seem to attract a few extremists. Plus, it can be tricky to find objective and unbiased discussions of the pros and cons of raw feeding on the internet. The pros and cons Raw feeding is quite a big topic. It is both complicated and simple. Complicated because we tend to worry about the nutrients our dogs are getting. Raw feeding is not as convenient as kibble feeding, It requires plenty of freezer and refrigeration space, a designated preparation surface, and good meat preparation hygiene. Just as with meat preparation for people. Small puppies are growing fast and are vulnerable to diets with a poor nutrient balance. It is very important you do your research before attempting to raw feed a small puppy. This is because raw fed dogs get messy. It is hard in this situation to keep raw meat juices containing pathogens, away from children too small to understand the importance of hand washing The important fact here is that there is no right way to feed a dog. Your family needs to be considered as a whole. The feeding method you choose needs to fit in to your lifestyle and current circumstances. I fed raw to my dogs for many years. But I did not do this and could not have done this, when my kids were little. Nowadays, I sometimes feed kibble, if circumstances demand it. But prefer to feed raw whenever I can. Remember, many dogs thrive on kibble, and many dogs thrive on raw. Choosing the best dog food for Labs may also depend on your own circumstances. If you have a small puppy you may be happier feeding kibble With children under five, it may be safer for you to feed kibble If your dog has a close relative that has suffered from bloat, he may be safer eating raw If your dog suffers from allergies, he might do better on raw Now may be the right time to feed raw for you, or it may be the right time to feed kibble. Your circumstances are unique so only you can decide. For those of you the majority that will be feeding kibble. Choosing the lowest price Labrador food may not necessarily be the cheapest option. As very often, you will need to feed larger quantities of the cheaper food. Biologically appropriate kibble? It is usually a reasonable option to choose a mid-range in terms of cost food and see how your dog gets on with that. If your wallet can stretch to it, we especially like the Orijen brand. Orijen is what my dogs have as training food, and when I am not able to feed them raw. So if you decide to switch brands, do it gradually over the space of a few days by adding a little more of the new food and a little less of the old, each day. How often to feed your Labrador Many dog owners continue to feed their dogs twice a day throughout their lives. Some people feed their dogs once a day after twelve months of age. We do know that there is an association between bloat and large meals. Though this may only apply to kibble Once daily feeding is probably fine if you decide to feed raw meat. But with kibble it may be too much dry food in one go. I recommend that you feed your adult dog morning and evening. How often to feed puppies The amount of food that your Labrador puppy needs to eat each day must be divided into several portions. But it will almost certainly give him diarrhoea and could damage his stomach as kibble swells after drinking. From eight to twelve weeks your puppy will benefit from four meals a day. Breakfast, lunch, tea and supper. Space the meals at least three hours apart to give him chance to digest them properly. And make sure the last meal is a two to three hours before his last trip to the toilet at bedtime. Once your puppy gets to three months old you can divide his daily ration into three portions, and by six months to two. Breakfast and supper. How much to feed a Labrador? Recommended quantities can be found on kibble packaging and these will vary quite widely from brand to brand. They are also often on the high side. If your dog is a little overweight, feed about a third less than recommended for a few days and then re-assess his appearance. Your dog may well need less food than you think. How long should a dog take to eat his dinner? I prefer my dogs to eat their meals up fairly quickly. Plus, he will eat more enthusiastically at the next meal if he is a little hungry. How to feed a Labrador slowly A much more common problem in Labradors, is the dog that scoffs his dinner in a heartbeat and then begs for more with pleading eyes. There is an association between bloat and rapid eating, so if you can slow down your dog a little, it is probably good thing. The best way to do that is by using a slow feed bowl. Provided there is nothing in there which is unsuitable. Giving leftovers to puppies Puppies need a very well balanced diet to grow up strong and healthy. Unless you are a very experienced dog owner and knowledgable about nutrition and the dietary needs of a growing animal, it is not a good idea to feed your puppy on household scraps. And complete puppy foods contain all the nutrients your pup needs to develop a healthy body. Dog feeding equipment and storage There is a huge choice of feeding bowls available. You can get some very cheap and colorful plastic bowls. I like stainless steel. But I admit it is quite noisy to handle and use. And not as pretty as some of the ceramic products. Think carefully before you buy raised bowls as some studies have associated these with bloat. Storing dog food Kibble is for the most part a convenient food source. To keep your food fresh, an airtight container is a better bet. We like the wheeled pet food storage bins and they enable you to move heavy quantities of food around without putting your back out! This slimline version fits nicely in a cupboard. Well worth thinking about, especially if you have several dogs to feed. There are also some gorgeous storage containers now that beg to be put out on display. Feeding Labrador puppies When you first bring your puppy home, your breeder should have provided you with a diet sheet, some food, and plenty of information on feeding Labrador puppies. It is really important to stick with his familiar food for the first few days. Moving home is traumatic enough for an eight week old pup without giving his tummy a shock too. If you have not been given any food or any information on how to feed a puppy then I suggest you call in to your local pet store and buy a small sack of kibble puppy food that is appropriate for his breed and age. Giving water to your Labrador Puppies and older dogs need water available to them at all times during the day. Provided that it is at least an hour since his last meal. Kibble fed dogs drink quite a lot of water, raw fed dogs may drink very little. This is normal. When feeding problems need veterinary help All puppies need regular veterinary check ups and when you take your puppy to the vet for his vaccinations. This is a great time to ask any questions you might have on his diet and welfare generally. All dogs may eat less in very hot weather. But changes in appetite, especially sudden changes, can be a sign that a dog is not well. How often and what time to feed I will show you the best puppy foods, whether dry, wet, or raw, and look at food safety, together with schedules, quantities and even a handy puppy diet chart. Best Puppy Food for Labs The best Labrador puppy food provides a diet that is nutritious, healthy, and tasty. So, what is the best puppy food for your Lab? Puppy kibble or dried food is the most popular option. Kibble is complete and can give a perfectly balanced diet. Puppy kibble and tinned dog meat combined is another common choice among puppy parents. Feeding your Labrador puppy on home cooked food or on a totally raw diet is also possible. Raw puppy food is growing in popularity, and there are pros and cons to raw feeding your puppy. People often feel very strongly that one way of feeding is better than another, and you can always find evidence to support your view. Dog breeders, veterinarians and even nutritionists have their own strong views. The dire consequences they list for not listening to them can have puppy owners very worried. The truth is that there is no good quality evidence showing that kibble is better for the long term health of your dog, or that raw feeding is better. There are risks and benefits to both, and the main thing is to ensure that your dog has good quality food to eat. Puppy kibble suits some better, and raw puppy food is better for others. Puppy Kibble for your Labrador Puppy food made into pellets is called kibble. An airtight plastic container or tin will do the job, although you should make sure it is food grade quality. Puppy kibble is the best way of feeding your Labrador according to most breeders and your veterinarian is most likely to support this method of feeding. Good puppy kibble will contain every nutrient your Labrador puppy needs in order to grow and remain healthy. The kibble pieces will be tasty, good for keeping teeth healthy, and free from additives that can provoke allergies or stomach problems. Labrador puppy kibble only needs to be fed next to water. Puppy kibble from a reputable manufacturer is intended to be a complete and balanced food. But some owners like to mix in canned dog food or even scraps of raw food with kibble. Your puppy is likely to get an upset stomach or to not have the right balance of nutrition when fed this way. Whether you decide to feed only with kibble or you want to mix it up, pick a good dried food manufacturer and stick with them. Feeding your Labrador puppy raw food has its benefits and drawbacks. One of the downsides is that there is a lot to learn. Here is a link to the articles you need to help you decide whether or not raw feeding is for you: Although I like the raw diet for my dogs, most puppies fed kibble go on to have long and healthy lives. Whatever puppy food you choose, the most important thing is portion control. How Much to Feed your Labrador Puppy? People often tell me how much their puppy weighs, and ask how much puppy food they should give him. Your Labrador is particularly at risk if they grow too quickly. The following diet chart is for kibble fed puppies and does not apply to raw fed pups. It gives you an idea of how much to feed your Labrador puppy Lab Puppy Feeding Chart The Lab puppy feeding chart below is only a very rough guide. The quantity of food you need for your puppy will vary depending on your puppy and on the brand of food you are feeding him. Labrador puppy food must be aimed at medium to large breed dogs. Check the pack carefully and look at the dietary charts. Ideally, you want the optimal protein content and the lowest amount of additives. Part of this always comes down to the cost. The healthiest puppy food is usually the most expensive and may not be affordable for some families. The Cost Of Puppy Food Some puppy food brands are more concentrated than and contain a higher proportion of proteins, essential oils, and other nutrients. The absence of these fillers means that you can often feed lower quantities of more costly food, making them less expensive than they first seem. You might also find that cheaper brands make your puppy poop more due to those extra fillers going straight through him. While some brands are beyond the budget of many families, it is usually good to buy a premium brand. High Quality Brands of Puppy Food Some brands of puppy food have developed a reputation for producing a high quality product and have many devoted supporters, including breeders that have fed them to generations of puppies. The best food for Labrador puppies to consume in their first two to four months of life is milk from their mother. This specialised care is usually left to trained breeders or veterinarians, who are knowledgeable in caring for pups with no mother to nurse from. If you have recently brought a Labrador puppy into your family, they are most likely older than 8 weeks, and so have started to eat solid foods. You can do this by mixing some dry food with specially formulated puppy milk to form a soft mixture. You can feed your puppy this mixture three to four times a day. Over time, you can reduce the amount of milk you include in this mixture, until they are at the point where they are happily eating dry foods. Read on to learn how much you should feed a Labrador puppy as they get older. In their four months living with you, and once they are weaned off milk, Labradors are likely to reach almost half their adult weight. They will reach their full adult weight by the time they are 6 to 7 months old. With this rapid growth can come some risks. Labradors can be susceptible to bone growth disorders, like hip dysplasia and joint abnormalities that can start in puppyhood. Once your Lab puppy hits 6 months, their growth begins to slow down. Once puppyhood is over, you can move to feeding your lab twice a day instead of 3 or 4 times. Labs are still very active in their adolescent years, and so should be fed with this in mind. The transition from puppy food to adult food should happen at around 15 months. This is because, being a breed who grows very quickly, you want to ensure that you are feeding them according to their large breed needs. You need to take special care when considering what you should feed your Labrador puppy, as they require different nutrients compared to their adult counterparts. It is also dangerous for a puppy to overeat. Labradors are large breeds, which means they need plenty of nutrients and calories as they grow to ensure they go from being active puppies to healthy adult dogs. Labrador puppies need to eat food that is high in proteins and fats. Carbohydrates are also essential for supporting your active pup. Aside from nutritionally complete dry puppy food, Labrador puppies can benefit from the extra protein that raw meat can provide them with, such as lean beef, turkey, chicken, or fish. The amount of food you give your Labrador is determined by their weight, energy levels, and age. For most adult Labradors, around 1, to 2, calories per day from high quality food sources is ideal. Female Labradors, who tend to be around 5 to 10 kilos lighter than males, may need less food, as will less active dogs. Dogs who need less food, whether they are less active or simply older, will usually still need around 1, to 1, calories per day. You may want to alter the amount of food you are feeding your Labrador based on how calorically dense their food is. Adult Labradors should be fed twice a day, once in the morning and once in the evening. Their daily allotment of food should be split evenly between these two meals. For most dogs, it is recommended that you exercise your dog before meal times to assist with potty training. However, some dogs may benefit from exercise after eating: especially high energy Labs with a lot of energy to burn off. You should also try to give your Labrador a high quality food that is specially designed for large breeds, especially if they are very active. For example, less active senior dogs will need to eat less food as they will not be burning calories as quickly as a lively little puppy will. Senior dogs may benefit from a higher fibre and lower calorie diet. Your dog may also develop chronic or short term medical conditions that require specially formulated food. For example, Labradors can be particularly susceptible to obesity. As a breed, they tend to be one of the most commonly obese dogs in Australia. This is due to several factors, including a genetic predisposition to unhealthy weight gain and a famously large appetite. However, plenty of Labs suffering from obesity are simply overfed and not getting enough exercise. Choosing a low carb diet is crucial to preventing obesity in your Labrador. If you are unsure about what you should feed your Labrador, you should always consult your vet. They will be able to determine if your dog is suffering from any chronic health issues, and they will be able to create a nutritional plan to help keep your dog healthy and happy for many years to come. Wet food for Labradors is often high in protein and fat, and is better at keeping your dog hydrated than other food sources. Chewing on dry food can be especially good for teething Labrador puppies. A raw diet can be a good option for your Labrador as you have more control over the kinds of food and amount of nutrients your pup is consuming. For this reason, raw diets require a lot more work on your part as an owner. Whatever you decide to feed your Labrador, all dogs need a similar ratio of nutrients in their diets. Different dog breeds will need different kinds of nutrient support as they go through the various stages of their life. It can also be easy to overestimate the amount of food your Labrador needs to stay fit and healthy — especially if they are skilled at begging! You need to make sure that your dog is eating the right amount of food for their breed, their size, and activity level. You should also avoid foods that, while delicious for humans, can be harmful or toxic for dogs. Foods like onions, nuts, alcohol, cooked bones, and artificial sweeteners are commonly included in dinners meant for humans, but can cause serious health issues for your Labrador. No matter how old your Lab is, it is important to keep to a consistent feeding schedule. A feeding schedule can help you keep track of any changes in behaviour around food that might signal illness or physiological stress.

Your puppy will be born and raised in our busy household. Our passion is to produce wonderful family pets with gentle loving temperaments that will bring a lifetime of happiness. We are extremely proud that the foundation of our lines have been trained as canine partner dogs and many of our puppies are therapy dogs and visit schools regularly. We have been breeding for a number of years and over these years we have seen many clubs come and go and we have been a member of some of them. We breed authentic Australian Labradoodles with lines that have been verified. We are content to follow our own path with strong ethics. We have an excellent reputation and we adopt the highest standards so you can be assured your puppy is an authentic Australian Labradoodle with bloodlines and health testing that has been verified. We follow a socialisation programme and temperament test all of our puppies before puppy pick day so we can help you make your choice. Temperament and health is always our first priority. We purchased our first Australian Labradoodle in and have been hooked ever since. Our dogs are our much loved family pets or live with their guardian families. Please contact us via email for more information. Access to our private puppy family area. A WhatsApp group for your litter. Both parents have been fully health tested with certificates available to view. Been bred in our family home by a 5 star council licensed breeder. Temperament tested and advice provided at puppy viewing. Call us today on Health Guaranteed All our puppies leave us with a full vet health check and a 2 year genetic health guarantee. Health Tested All our breeding Australian Labradoodles are fully health tested. We give our puppies the best start by following a tried and tested programme. Ethical Breeding We have the highest welfare standards which is why we hold a 5 star council licence. We believe every dog deserves a good life and this starts with the breeder. What our customers say.We travelled far to find her, and her knowledge, expertise and love for all things ALD is exceptional. After only a few days, Willow is already a huge part of our lives and so we are very glad that we chose Judy and RIpley's. Our dogs are very much our family pets. We are not a kennel, all our Australian Labradoodles have wonderful fulfilling lives either with us or our guardian families. Our dogs are for life and not just for breeding. The health and temperament of Australian Labradoodles is our number one priority, of course we breed exceptionally lovely puppies but our puppies health and temperament will always be our first priority. The Australian Labradoodle breed originated in Australia in the 's. The focus has always been on temperament, coat and quality through good health testing and planned matings. Our Australian Labradoodles are multigenerational, meaning both parents are Australian Labradoodles. Australian Labradoodles are very people focussed, they have a strong desire to please. Australian Labradoodles come in 3 sizes, miniature, medium and standard. Within my breeding programme I concentrate on miniature and mediums. Our Australian Labradoodles are extremely clever, sociable , comical and joyful. They are energetic when free and quiet in the home. We test their hips, elbows, eyes and genetics. When you purchase a Ripley's Australian Labradoodle you can be assured we have tested everything possible. We provide a 2 year health guarantee but we ask that our puppy families not give ingestible flea and worming treatments. Why choose NLD for your future puppy? Professional and Ethical At New London Doodles, we believe in the transformative journey of bringing a new doodle puppy into your life. Our dedicated team ensures excellence by meticulously selecting breeding pairs, conducting comprehensive health testing, and providing optimal nutrition. We prioritize early socialization and crate training, fostering confident and well-rounded puppies. NLD's commitment extends beyond adoption, offering ongoing support for a seamless transition. Trust us to give your puppy the best start in life through our dedication to genetic health, proper care, and continuous support. It truly takes a village to raise a puppy! Click here to meet our team. Non-shedding and Allergy Friendly We pride ourselves on offering something truly special: multigenerational doodles with meticulously tested, non-shedding coats. We understand that finding a furry companion who won't leave a trail of fur behind is important to you. That's why we invest the time and effort into a rigorous breeding process spanning generations, coupled with thorough coat testing. This ensures that our adorable doodles inherit allergy friendly non-shedding traits consistently. With NLD, you'll never have to worry about getting a shedding puppy! Click here to read more. Visitor Friendly and Free Delivery We believe in making the adoption process as transparent and hassle-free as possible. That's why we have an OPEN door visitation policy. We are extremely proud of our team and facilities and want YOU to come visit! For families unable to visit we even go the extra mile by providing free delivery to your home in Virginia, North Carolina, Maryland, and Washington DC! No hidden fees, no financing tricks. We believe in straightforward and honest transactions because we genuinely care about finding our puppies loving homes. Click here to read testimonials. Lifetime Support Our responsibility to our puppies extends far beyond their time on our premises and are committed to providing ongoing support and guidance for the life of your puppy. Our professional team is always available to offer valuable advice and assistance, whether it's about training techniques, health maintenance, or breed-specific needs. We want to ensure that the transition of your puppy into its new home is not only smooth but also successful. With our lifetime support, you can feel confident knowing that you have a dedicated team by your side, ready to provide the guidance and expertise you need to nurture a happy and healthy relationship with your beloved furry companion. We like them to be fully immersed in a normal home environment. We have been working as a family on our lines for nearly 10 years, but we are still working towards our goal, by adding new lines and opening the gene pool to create stronger lines. Our aim is to achieve the type of Australian Labradoodle with our own specific breeding, and offer loving family pets. We Nurture And Love Our breeding is very much a family affair, and it is filled with love and a lot of patience from all of us. Puppies are from DNA-tested lines, both mum and dad will be tested in accordance to their mix, we hip and elbow score our larger dogs as well. London Doodles are pets, so no working lines are used in our dogs, which helps to create the wonderfully calm and sensitive disposition our puppies are known for. Many of our dogs have gone on to be pet therapy dogs, making us very proud. We breed beautiful Australian Type Labradoodles and English Labradoodles Our puppies are home raised — we like them to be fully immersed in a normal home environment. We have been working as a family on our lines for nearly 10 years, but we are still working towards our goal by adding new lines and opening the gene pool to create stronger lines. We Nurture And Love Our breeding is very much a family affair, and it is filled with love. Puppies are from DNA-tested lines, both mum and dad will be tested in accordance to their mix. We start toilet training and basic commands sit, come and wait. Extensive Puppy Pack Puppies are vet checked, vaccinated, microchipped and leave with follow-on food, blankets, toys and more. All puppies will have lifelong support from us Bonding time New owners are encouraged to visit their new puppy before they go to their new home multiple times, to make the transition easier for them by getting to bond with their new family and lots of advice for the humans. I have passed your details to everyone I know who has a dog, and even a few without!! Apart from giving me the best dog in the world, the support I was given from day one has been exceptional. The price will depend on the size of the litter, costs and colour of puppies. Both parents have been bred by us, and both grandparents on each side. These will be ready for their new homes at the beginning of December. A little bit about us Here at London Doodles we believe a good family pet can only be created when born and bred from good pets; which cannot be achieved by breeding from dogs kept in kennels. The modern day dog is becoming less and less of a working dog in the traditional sense — their new role is to provide joy to their families. Knowing what I want from my breed and what I am already achieving is what motivates to dedicate my life to these wonderful breeds. We are small home breeders — a mother and a daughter team. Our aim at London Doodles is to work towards a multigenerational dog with a diverse genetic make up. Similar to the ;Australian Labradoodle;, except bred with our own lines so we fully know the breed inside out. We strive to create well balanced dogs suitable as pets or therapy dogs. This idea was started many years ago, but due to the ways in which the breed was founded I decided it is best to do it my way, the most ethical way I can. I want to create a breed of dog which is free from inherited conditions, with a vast gene pool, which would help with the stability of the breed. Labradoodles are well known now for their intelligence and great temperament. But many modern homes want a non shedding dog, making the labradoodle a great choice. We have mummy dogs in guardian homes, which are specially selected parents who care for the dog as their family pet, and in return for financial care, training and support for their dog, I maintain breeding rights. All of our dogs have loving homes for life, and never spend a day in kennels. Contact Us Please enable JavaScript in your browser to complete this form.

Are they good family dogs? Labrador Dog Price — The Costs Involved Buying a Labrador is not just a question of the purchase price of a Lab puppy, though of course that is important. There are other costs involved, both financial, emotional and in terms of time and effort. So we need to look at those too. You may be wondering whether you will have the time for a dog, and if you have the space and energy for a large and lively breed? But this page will take you back to the fundamental considerations, to help you to make the right choice for you and your family. Do you have time for a dog? Can you afford a dog? What about your lifestyle? Will a dog fit in with your family? Is a Labrador the right dog for you? These questions all apply regardless of the type of Labrador you are looking for. The needs of a black Lab, yellow Lab or chocolate Lab are all the same in these respects. The same goes for an English or American Labrador too. Dogs need space, both indoors and outside. Even small breeds need room to stretch their legs and run about. And Labradors as fairly large and lively dogs need quite a lot of space. This means you need a decent sized backyard if you plan on buying a Labrador puppy. Somewhere that your Lab dog can run around, play and enjoy training sessions with you. Labradors can be quite silly during adolescence, bouncing and cavorting in the home. Their tails are long and thick, easily knocking any fragile decorations you might have from shelves. If you have lots of ornaments then you will need to move them to higher shelves to avoid them getting damaged. You will also need to move anything that could be easily damaged by chewing. With small puppies this will be very often indeed. Perhaps every 15 to 20 minutes during their first few days with you. If you live in a flat, or do not have a garden, this will be difficult for you. These are helpful but do take up a lot of space. Although this will take up a lot of space indoors, it can work very well for larger apartments with no easy outside access. Ideally however you do need to have a garden, and a part of the garden which your dog can use as a bathroom, along with a good system for clearing up after him hygienically. Space is key for a Lab dog! The right space for a Labrador includes large clear rooms in the house, with no breakable or fragile objects within his grasp. And ideally access to a garden where they can easily be let out to the bathroom and have room to play. Keeping a single Labrador permanently outside however is not usually a good idea, even with adequate shelter and security. Labs are very sociable dogs and prone to separation anxiety if they lack company. This means your dog may be both sad and noisy. It is always sad to hear from new puppy owners that are struggling to juggle the needs of a puppy with their need to work. These articles will help you to deal with this common issue. Even with a visit at lunch time. An older dog may cope with being left for up to four hours in row on a regular basis, but puppies need more attention than this. Contented Labradors are fairly quiet dogs and unlikely to disturb your neighbors. Nor are they very good guard dogs. However, lonely dogs bark and wreck things. If you work all day, can you afford to pay someone to come in and let him out to stretch his legs and empty himself? Or do you have a relative or friend that would be prepared to do this on a regular basis. Bear in mind that this is quite a lot to ask of anyone in the long term. The biggest long term time commitment in owning a dog is in the form of training and exercise. Training Takes Time All dogs need training in order that they can rub along in human society without being a complete nuisance. This means a regular daily commitment of ten to twenty minutes from you, in addition to your regular interaction with the dog. Training cannot be saved up for the weekend, your dog will have forgotten most of what he learnt the weekend before, and he does not have the attention span to concentrate on you for an hour and a half. You can find out more about training your Labrador puppy here. Staying Fit Exercise is required on a regular basis, for some breeds of dog this means at least an hour a day of walking or jogging to keep your dog fit and healthy. You can find out more about the exercise requirements of a Labrador puppy here. Whilst your dog will not come to any harm if you miss a day occasionally, a daily routine is often the best way to ensure that you build this important habit. Can You Afford A Dog? Dogs can be quite expensive to run. You need to consider not only how much a Labrador will cost you to buy, but also how much it will cost you to keep. How much do Labradors cost from breeders? The price of a Labrador puppy will vary from breeder to breeder, and from place to place. Perhaps you know a friend that has a litter of puppies and they are going to let you have one for free. However, the purchase price of a dog is almost irrelevant. It is such a small part of the final cost. The cost of keeping a Labrador The reality is, you are also going to need to fork out a chunk of your wages each week on keeping your pooch happy and healthy. Obviously you will have taken the cost of a good brand of Labrador puppy food into consideration. It is a good idea to budget for veterinary insurance too. Not because it is unreasonably priced, but simply because it is now so advanced. You can fix a lot of problems these days. We can do open heart surgery, mend complex fractures, treat cancer with radiotherapy or chemotherapy. Pretty much anything you can treat in a human, you can now treat in a dog. And the catch? It costs. The more comprehensive your insurance package the more it will cost. Watch out for very cheap deals, as they may not provide continuing cover for long term ailments. You will also need to vaccinate your dog against common canine illness , and this will probably need to be done each year too. Especially if you are wanting to occasionally leave them in boarding kennels when you go away, as they require up to date vaccination certificates. Labrador Puppy Costs There will be a few other one-off costs such as a puppy crate and puppy play pen for your home for when your dog is young, another for your car if you have one. Then there are bowls, bedding, collar, leash etc. But you may be able to borrow a crate or get one second hand. Here are some of the items you will need for your new Labrador puppy, and reviews on the best options for Labradors:. Once again, the intelligent, family friendly Labrador retriever has taken the 1 spot on the most popular list for the 23rd consecutive year, the longest reign at the top in AKC history. We have helped birth and place more puppies this year than in any of our previous forty. Read the full text of the AKC press release here. Our industry setting Puppy Guarantee makes buying one of our pure-bred Labrador retrievers one of the wisest decisions you will ever make. Read the personal testimonials from prominent Labrador Retriever owners from around the country. Our Labs can be found across the country in forty 40 states from the great Southwest to historic New England, from frigid Alaska to the Sunshine state. Located near Laurel Hill, NC, we have shipped more than 8, world class Labrador retriever puppies and adults to locations as far away as Alaska. We can easily ship our guaranteed Labs to your location in or around Cheyenne. For details, Visit our Puppy Page or call Woody or Judi for up-to-the-minute puppy information at .Labrador Retrievers Make Good Therapists In recent articles, a licensed professional counselor with thirty years of experience, explained how owning a Labrador retriever can help produce healthier, happier, more well adjusted children and seniors. Children with dogs for pets have been found to have lower cholesterol, lower blood pressure, and fewer overall physical complaints than those without dogs. In fact, there are several diseases where dogs have been used to help those who have the disease. Two of these are: rheumatoid arthritis and emotional disturbance stemming from cases of severe abuse. Samuel B. Dogs encourage their owners to go outdoors and get involved in more physical activity. A dog as sedentary as a lap dog can also help to greatly help to improve the health of their senior citizen owners as taking care of a pet dog involves a fair amount of physical activity. With the progress of medical science, the concept of therapy dogs has come into prominence. Studies have found that activities such as petting the dogs can lower heart rate and blood pressure, release feel good hormones such as endorphins and most importantly help the older people to gain a new view of life. Our world class Labrador Retrievers puppies for sale! Our Latest Happy Clients! Become A Happy Client!

Do Father dogs know their puppies? By two weeks of age, they should be alert and trying to stand. By three weeks, they should be trying to climb out of their nest or whelping box. By four weeks, all the puppies should be able to walk, run, and play. How long do puppies stay in whelping box? During the first 3 weeks most dams like to be in a warm secluded area, not in the family living area. Pups remain contently in their whelping box for the first 20 days of their life. How do you transition a puppy from a whelping box? By the time the puppies are weeks old, the mother should have an area near the whelping box, but separate from the puppies to allow her time to rest. At about this time, the puppies will start trying to leave the box to explore. They should be well supervised and have safe toys available. Can I move the whelping box? We have found that moving the whelping box or puppy pen set-up on a weekly basis exposes the puppies to new scents and air currents and increases their adaptability and development by about two weeks, especially compared to puppies who are raised in the same corner until they go to their new homes. Is whelping box necessary? As the last week of pregnancy approaches, your female dog will often begin looking for a secure and comfortable place to have her litter of puppies. Before this time comes, it is essential to create a whelping box so she becomes comfortable with it and knows this is the preferred place to have her puppies. Do 4 week old puppies need a heat lamp? Young puppies cannot maintain their own body temperature for a week or two after birth. Heating the area over the whelping box with the aid of a heat lamp is usually all that is necessary. When should I remove the whelping box? I usually take them out at about 3 — 4weeks. This is what I have in My box they just stay there all the time. When can puppies go all night without nursing? A six or seven week old puppy can go through the night without needing to feed as long as they have had enough food during the day. Should newborn puppies sleep with Mom? A newborn puppy is completely helpless and dependent upon her mother. Puppies should remain with the mother and littermates until about age eight to 12 weeks. How do you keep a puppy whelping box clean? Clean the bottom with a chemical-free disinfectant cleanser. Spray a bit of chemical-free disinfectant cleanser on the bottom and sides of your whelping box, and use a paper towel to wipe this up. When can I leave my dog alone with her puppies? Can you leave newborn puppies alone with their mom overnight? Should I leave my dog alone while she is in labor? Should I be present during the whelping? Some dogs like the owner to be with them the whole time they are in labor. Others prefer to have their puppies in seclusion. If your pet chooses to be left alone, try to avoid intruding any more than necessary. What is the best bedding for a whelping box? Many breeders use shredded newspaper to line whelping boxes, but others prefer towels and blankets, wood shavings, or even sand. Should I keep my dog in the whelping box? A whelping box is designed to keep the newborn puppies safe, warm, and comfortable. Whelping means the process where a female dog gives birth to puppies. And a whelping box is a container or box designed to keep the puppies safe and warm. Having a whelping box makes it convenient for the mother to give birth comfortably. Female dogs are very protective of their puppies. Hence the nesting box offers a sense of security. Female dogs need assistance and a safe place to give birth. Hence, a whelping pen would be of great help. If your dog is about to give birth, it would be better to get a box or make it yourself. For a small dog like Pomeranian, you can convert a large card box into a whelping pen. You can put your creativity into the process and make a nesting box for your dog. If your dog is big, she might probably give birth to a large number of puppies. Hence, the size of the box should be large enough to fit the puppies and the mother. Furthermore, you can get the box from a pet store if creativity and DIY are not your forte. Here are some of the factors that you need to consider: The sides of the pen should be high enough that can keep the puppies safe for three weeks. Also, make sure that the mother can move to and fro freely. The size of the pen should be spacious enough for your dog and puppies. It should have enough space where the mother can feed her pups comfortably. In addition, it should allow them to move freely. It will help to keep the pups warm when the mom is not around. These are the factors that you need to consider while getting a nesting box. It helps the mother and the pups in the long run. You would notice the growth within the first few weeks. They can move and stand up over the sides of the whelping pen. By three weeks, they become mobile and able to move towards the edge of the nesting box. However, before it reaches that stage, you should take care of it diligently. Some pups would go astray and get lost. Hence, getting a box with proper height is essential. Sometimes the mother has to go out of the box for a nature call or food. The box offers a sense of security both to the dog owner and the mother. When the puppies are born, they have no control over their body temperature. So, while the mom is out, the box will keep them warm. However, you have to make sure that the bottom of the box is covered with a soft blanket. By three weeks, they will start moving, and some puppies might even get out of the box. So, the real chaos begins when they reach three weeks. It would be best if you were more careful than ever. How to Keep the Nesting Box Clean? Taking care of puppies can be quite tiring. Once the puppies are born safely in the box, it would be better to change the sheet or the beddings. The mother will take care of it. However, from the second to the third week, the real work starts. It will help if you make sure that the box is clean. While cleaning the box, you can keep the pups temporarily in a warm blanket. You need to replace the sheet or newspaper at least twice or thrice per day. However, keeping the box clean prevents the puppies from possible bacterial infections. It also helps to keep the puppies clean. You should see that the nesting box is clean and dry. So, like a responsible dog owner , make sure that the box is clean and warm. Changing the Whelping Box to Other Areas Once the puppies have passed the first week, you place the box in other areas. It will help them to get used to the new smell and sounds. However, make sure that the place is quiet and warm. Some kids would like to hold the pups, which would be too early and maybe dangerous. During the first two weeks, puppies are pretty delicate. So, it would be best to keep far away from children. The first three weeks are a crucial moment for you and the pups. The puppies are in their developing stage, and they need a quiet and calm environment to grow. So, you should make sure that puppies are kept safe and warm. They would be too young to take the regular food and would cause indigestion. But you can keep water for the mother. They get very thirsty while taking care of the puppies. She requires good protein and energy to keep the pups fed through her milk. You can place the food in the water once they can move or walk. However, make sure that the food is easily digestible. Also, puppies tend to eat food without a limit. So, you should give the food moderately. Overeating can cause indigestion and vomiting. Hence, it would help if you were careful not to overfeed them. It offers a sense of security to the mother and the dog owners as well. Having a nesting box helps to keep the puppies from going astray. The first three weeks are crucial for the puppies to grow and develop healthily. Having the right size of the whelping box can help both the puppies and the mother move freely. It allows the mother to breastfeed the puppies comfortably. If your dog is about to give birth, it would be better to arrange a whelping box. It offers safety and assurance to both the mother and puppies. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. A whelping box is an important item to have when puppies are about to be born. You can construct something yourself or buy a specifically designed boxes from pet stores. When can puppies leave the whelping box? Puppies can often leave the whelping box at 3 weeks old. At this age, puppies can move out of the whelping box as they become more mobile. Puppies can stand up and even climb out of the whelping box nest. At this age, puppies start to explore outside of their nest, to find out more about the wide and exciting world around them. Well, I can tell you that a whelping box will help you and the mother cope better with a horde of tiny puppies in their first few weeks. What is a whelping box? Also known as a nest or whelping pen, the whelping box is a container designed to keep the newborn litter in one safe and cozy place. The mother also likes to have a place where she can give birth to her puppies in comfort while having a sense of security. Whelping means to give birth hence the name of the box. It should be placed in a quiet part of the house and set up a couple of weeks before your dog gives birth. This gives her time to get familiar with the box. Image via Pixabay. What can I use as a whelping box? If your dog is a little girl, you could convert a large, sturdy cardboard box into a nesting box. You can make your own if carpentry is your hobby or you could go to the local pet store and buy a whelping box. What to look out for when picking a whelping box You need to make sure you pick a whelping box that takes into consideration the following factors: The sides are high enough to keep the puppies safely contained in their first 3 weeks but low enough for the mother to move in and out freely. The size is big enough to accommodate all the puppies being born. The bottom of the box may come with whelping pads or you can simply line it with newspapers and a soft blanket. Some breeders will use wood shavings to cover the floor of the box. Some whelping boxes come with an extension which is great for more active puppies who are still too young to leave the pen but are moving around quite a bit. Picking the right whelping box goes a long way to keeping mum and pups comfortable and secure. When is the right age for puppies to leave the whelping box? Puppies develop and mature very quickly in their first few weeks. A whelping box is designed to keep the newborn puppies safe, warm, and comfortable. Keeping the puppies in one place and even using a heat lamp will help keep them warm. And, when the mother needs time out, she can leave the box and get some space knowing her pups are all safe in one spot. A whelping box gives you peace of mind your puppies are well-protected, staying warm, and not disappearing once they start crawling. But be ready for the exodus once they reach 3 weeks old and might start walking! How do I keep the whelping box clean? If your dog gave birth to the puppies in the whelping box, you would need to change the bedding once all the puppies are safely delivered. Keep them warm with a blanket. Use a non-chemical cleaning detergent and warm water to wash out the box. Remove any dirty bedding and replace with clean blankets, newspapers or wood shavings. Some breeders do put in a litter box for puppies once they start crawling. This could be the first step to house training your pups. Do regular inspections throughout the day to make sure the whelping box is always dry and clean. Can I move the whelping box to other areas? Once your puppies have passed their first week, you could consider moving them to different areas in the house. But remember, you need to keep them warm so make sure there are no draughts and the puppies are not too intimidated by the new environment. Be careful also with handling newborn puppies when moving them. For the first 3 weeks, the puppies are small, developing, and can be easily disturbed by too much activity around them. Do I need to put food and water in the whelping box? The puppies will be drinking milk from their mother for the first 3 to 4 weeks, before moving onto water. For the first 3 weeks, you could keep a bowl of water in the box for the mother. She will be very thirsty while nurturing her puppies. However, once the puppies start becoming mobile keep both the water and food outside the box. Conclusion Get ready for a whole lot of fun, but also stress. She will take them no doubt but being able to help just a little with whelping boxes, nesting, and more will make it so much easier for you. You might also like…. During that first three weeks we weigh the puppies daily, trim their toenails every days, and put new collars on them every days as their growth is so rapid. The standard puppies are weighed on a regular digital scale and should gain an ounce a day at first and then up to ounces daily, whereas miniature puppies gain in a tenth of an ounce to start with and then an ounce or two a day. Jenny with litter at birth in 4' x 4' whelping box with lots of absorbent padding. Tasy in her "birthing bed" with the first three pups of the TS5 litter "Tasy" moves into her "doll crib" after the puppies are born - shown here at 3 weeks of age. We find it essential that the dam have food and water inside her whelping box the first week, however once she is willing to leave the box for short periods of time it can be set just outside the box, otherwise she will not eat and drink enough to provide all the milk needed for the puppies well being, and if you are not supplementing with goats milk, your puppies can suffer from dehydration. The standard dam has to produce almost two gallons of milk a day by the time a litter of puppies is two weeks of age. That's twice the amount a good dairy goat gives, who is at least double the dam's body weight. We find that goat milk, canned or fresh, is a much better supplement than the commercial formulas, as we have better weight gains and hardly ever have diarrhea in our puppies. If you have more than 8 puppies it is also essential that the dam's tail area and vulva be washed each time she goes out to go, as since there are not enough teats to go around there will always be a puppy trying to latch onto the vulva. The puppies can pick up bacteria and worm eggs, and a one celled organism called coccidiosis in this way which can lead to diarrhea. Mandy with AM3 Litter x Sterling at 1 week old. We practice what we call "giving the puppies an opportunity to learn" as a puppy raising method. We whelp the puppies in one corner of the living room where we have easy access to the box. We have found that moving the whelping box or puppy pen set-up on a weekly basis exposes the puppies to new scents and air currents and increases their adaptability and development by about two weeks, especially compared to puppies who are raised in the same corner until they go to their new homes. This is the first stage of their house breaking. Within hours the smartest puppies of the litter, barely able to crawl, will crawl out to use the paper and then crawl back into the whelping box. Within a few days the entire litter will usually be using the paper. Supplementing the puppies these first weeks gives us a good chance to play with the puppies feet, and get them used to their faces being handled for grooming, however even when we don't supplement we take time daily to handle every puppy and get them used to different textures, smells, and having their feet, faces, ears and tails handled. At three weeks of age when the ears open we start their cereal feeding, and use a soft clap with a "come, babies" command each time they are fed. This leads to the next step in the transition of removing the second box and the addition of a paper lined exercise pen to the whelping box at four weeks of age. At this time we start walking the puppies outside about every two hours from AM to PM. During this time ,the 4th-5th week, we teach them some basic commands - "in", "out", "potty outside", "walk", "watch", and continuing with their "come" command. Once they have understanding of these basic commands we then take them out to an outside play yard, regardless of the weather. It's really important to have this set-up close to an outside door if possible, or to use sections of an exercise pen to make an aisleway directly outdoors. Puppies can be carried outdoors, however their "potty outside" is learned much faster if they walk out the door in tune to the "out" command and the "potty outside" command at the same time. Usually within two days my standard puppies have quit having messes on the paper and are actually asking to go "out" - often at AM at this stage, and I do get up to accommodate them as this speeds their training amazingly, and I have a lot less mess to deal with - and less dirty crates when that time comes along. You can see that I do sleep within hearing of the puppies - usually until those we are continuing training with for their new families are weeks old. TS5 Miniature Litter - 2nd day of cereal feeding and 1st trip outside to the "big" world. We also start the grooming training at 4 weeks of age - starting with a bath with a soft water spray in a utility tub, and using a soft flow warm air dryer and a slicker brush - brushing the coat up the body toward the head, and up the legs toward the back as it dries. We always groom on a table, or the washer or dryer, or a counter - this is essential in getting the puppies used to being groomed on a grooming table and getting over any tendency toward the fear of heights. We cuddle them in our arms on the table to help them feel loved and secure, and to build their confidence level. We try to take pictures at birth, day old individual pictures, then every week thereafter for their new families, and for our albums. We also try to take litter shots as well at the various stages. I find that special touches add a lot of enjoyment, both for us raising the puppies, and for our families who are kept in the "link" of their puppy growing from infancy to toddler weeks. A Tasy x Promise Puppy before his first grooming and after his first grooming. My, oh my, what a difference!! We also start the worming program at four weeks of age - and this is really essential if you occasionally have a puppy that coughs after feeding, or vomits back up milk or cereal. Round worms are the one type of worm that the puppies can get in utero, and they grow as fast as the puppies. A heavy case of worms can often mimic other serious conditions in young puppies. It is also essential to use a low dosage of wormer in cases of heavy infestation, and at times give the puppy a few drops of oil by mouth, and possibly even an enema with a few drops of oil to help pass the worms. We use pyrantel pamoate for our first series of wormings. It is essential to worm every days until no worms are seen - these worms look like spaghetti - and once you see a litter of puppies pass them you never forget them. The wormer works in about six hours and is very effective. We have a computer generated health record that we complete on each puppy, and note all the worming's on it and on the litter weight records as well. Once the worming has been done, and if the teeth are coming in on the entire litter we start adding softened and mashed with potato masher kibble to the puppies cereal mixture - gradually reducing the rice baby cereal. During the next two weeks we gradually start adding cooked rice, cooked oatmeal, scrambled eggs, cottage cheese, ground apple and carrot, and a supplement Green Vibrance which has microbials in it to their soft feed. As soon as the puppies are able to eat dry kibble well and not just play with it we gradually reduce the soft feedings to AM and PM. The puppies often prefer dry kibble during times of heavy teething, however dry kibble no matter how well promoted does not meet all of their nutritional needs. Also the more organically chemical, steroid, and low grade antibiotic free a puppy can be fed, the better for its health and longevity. We keep our puppies on microbials their whole life as this keeps their intestinal system in optimal health - they absorb more nutrients, they produce less fecal material, they are less prone to other bacterial infections, they don't have smelly gas, they are less prone to bloat typical in a number of large breeds , they have better pigmentation as a result of absorbing more nutrients. We have also found that since taking this approach to diet that puppy and show coats on adults are more luxurious. As you can see their fourth week involves a lot of changes for the puppies. At six weeks of age we start the weaning process - although most "mothers" have already started it. A poodle "mom" is the most devoted creature ever the first week or two, but after that usually reclaims part of her own life to be with her human family. She will return to the whelping box every few hours to take care of her puppies needs, but other than that spends her time on a blanket or pad outside the box. Using a higher powered water spray, a higher powered table dryer, and if the coat is still thin enough a palm pro clipper again to clip the face, feet, tummy and tail. At this time Mishelle also adds standing the puppy properly on the table and does the first scissoring around the tail head and up the rump - as much to get the puppy used to the sound and feel of the scissors as because there is that much coat to scissor off. This is also when we try to take the first pictures of the puppies in a nice stance to send to everyone. This also helps to train the puppy for standing on the table which benefits when we do the conformation evaluations at 8 weeks of age. Puppies fearful on the table are very difficult to assess. This is also essential for miniature puppies that are going to be shown. It's very sad when a miniature is put on a table in the show ring for the judges inspection, and is fearful. Just minutes a day on a table, being encouraged to stand and be touched, can make a remarkable difference in just a week. A Maddy x Calvin puppy at 6 weeks of age after her 2nd grooming Six weeks is also when we remove the whelping box, as the mother now just gets in with the puppies about 4 times a day and either sits or stands to nurse them. She also starts to regurgitate her feedings for the puppies at this stage. The teeth are starting to come all the way in at this time, and the puppies will start sparring, and at times will really yelp. They learn at this stage not to bite each other too hard, and this is the first step to them learning not to bite humans too hard. We often have families who want to get their poodle puppies at this age, especially if they are going to training in agility. We do not allow any puppies to go to their new homes until they are weeks of age, as we feel that they need the "sibling rivalry" stage to learn aggressive and defensive behavior - which is learned by their interplay with each other. Many of our poodles go to homes with runners, and I can't tell you how many times they have had to defend their owners from aggressive dogs of other breeds, and always successfully. You never know when your poodle may have to come to your defense, and the maneuvers they learn as puppies at this age are the foundation for their defensive techniques, increase their alertness, and the speed of their thinking and their reactivity time. I love watching the puppies develop their skills during playtime at this stage. It is their transition from infancy to toddlers. It is also at six weeks that we remove the whelping box replacing it with two small crates without the gates on. Our favorite crates are the Furrari's, as they just snap together, and the gates can be opened from either side and simply lifted off for this stage of training. The first night all the puppies will crowd into one small crate - then I will hear them in the middle of the night groaning and grumbling, and in the morning the puppies will be divided between the two crates. That day we add a third small crate, and go through the same process - which we repeat until there are two puppies per crate. We never put the gates on at this stage, just allow the puppies the freedom to sleep in or out of the crates, and to play with them. We estimate that a poodle puppy develops 21 years in it's first year. From infancy to toddler, to preschool, to kindergarten, to pre-adolescent, to adolescent, to pre-teen, to teenager, to post teen, and early twenties. Their intelligence is equivalent to that of many humans, and the learning of human vocabulary in a standard poodle is amazing. They are a joy to work with and to train, many almost training themselves. At this point we start giving the puppies rawhide chew bones to help with their teeth cutting, the cardboard rolls from toilet paper, paper towels, tape rolls, and small boxes that they can pack around, tear up and destroy. Much like a toddler builds a stack of bricks and then knocks it down destructive stage so also does a puppy need to go through this stage. So we give them things that don't cost anything, that are light weight, and the right size around for a puppy jaw to pick up. They love it. We also start giving the puppies soft and hard toys to play with, and also try to observe which puppies in the litter are water lovers - they play in the water and empty the container almost as fast as we can fill it. We often get asked for puppies that like water by families that boat, or live on rivers or lakes, or on house boats. We start watching closely for the different types of personalities that the puppies have, how they relate to each other, to new situations, to new people, to other animals they come in contact with. Those that are more adventuresome, more curious, more courageous, etc. We are also watching for activity levels and how they move. It is also at weeks that we take the puppies to the back yard to play - as they are then big enough to be taught to go up and down steps. We have closed back steps, and open backed steps like condos and the steps at the air cargo depots for them to learn on. This can be quite a challenge to some, and we usually have to delay this training with the miniatures for a couple of more weeks when they are a bit bigger. They are so proud of themselves when they achieve success in going up and down the steps, even though it is just three steps - and will run up and down just for the joy of it. In the back yard they also learn to drink from an automatic waterer, so that they don't fear the hissing sound as it refills. Having nice clean feet, faces, and tail head and rump helps us to evaluate the puppies much better, and they will score better when all can be seen and evaluated. We do not give the puppies any treats prior to testing, nor do we do any actual crate training in closed crates. At this age the puppies get their first bath in the grooming tub with a harder spray of water instead of in the utility tub. The Force dryer is used for the first time, and the Andis or Oster clippers. This is also the clipping that helps us to determine the color that the puppies might end up as - blues and silvers are born black, silver beige and cafe-au-lait can be born very dark brown, light apricots that are going to cream out - we study the nose, feet, heels, and under the tail and neck for signs of color change. Tasy x Promise Pup - Black - at 8 weeks! A Mandy x Sterling Pup - Silver - at 8 weeks. Silvers and blues are born black and change gradually - starting with the muzzle and feet We try to schedule temperament testing 16 tests and conformation evaluations a three page form using AKC breed requirements, International breed requirements, and Puppy Puzzle testing at 8 weeks minus or plus three days, as this is the most accurate time for assessing conformation before the puppy starts its rapid growth spurts. This is at times a little early for temperament testing, however as so many families want their puppies at 8 weeks of age, it is necessary to do this before the litter starts to go to new homes. Often our entire litters are reserved before they are even born, or at least by the time they are 6 weeks of age, and this helps us to match puppies and their capabilities and personalities and temperament to the homes they are going into, especially the puppies that are shipped across the United States. This also means asking our prospective families for lots of details about their home style, their activities, other pets or animals in or around their homes, and what they want to do with their puppy as an adult. We also help families at this point to decide the best age of puppy to suit their lifestyle, as many families in todays age have difficulty getting the time those first weeks to house train a young puppy. The weekly cost covers food, treats, training, vaccinations and wormings. Temperament testing is beneficial, although there are those that disagree. It is done in a strange place by a strange person. It's purpose is to note the natural instincts and adaptability of the young puppies, and our families have found our assessments to be pretty accurate as their puppies have developed. The disadvantage of testing at 8 weeks versus 12 weeks, is that puppies can be conceived over a ten day period. The gestation period is days, with all of the body development being in the first 50 days, and the weight gain being in the last days. If the bitch whelps according to the first puppy conceived, then the last puppy or puppies conceived may not have had much weight gain - however due to genetics it will not always be the smallest puppies. When we do temperament testing we also try to be aware of which puppies opened eyes first and last, which had teeth coming in first and last - as these can be indicative of which puppies in the litter are the oldest and the youngest - as the psychological development can also be different, with the thinking processes of the youngest not being quite as developed as the thinking processes of the gestationally oldest puppies. In temperament testing we are looking at social skills, inanimate object retrieving instincts, sensitivity testing, chase response, bird retrieving instincts, perseverance and motivation. These help to determine which puppies might be best suited as companions, service and therapy candidates, agility and obedience prospects, those with "bird" instincts, and very important today those with good search and rescue and tracking instincts. Conformation evaluations are where we literally take a puppies body structure apart and put it back together again - all on paper. We are looking for the few puppies in a litter that are the most correct by breed specifications in bone structure. As companions for runners, horse back riders, hikers, bikers, etc. Most of our standard puppies, after 10 years of breeding are quite structurally correct - however we try to match structural correctness, temperament and personality to the needs of a family. To be a pick of the litter puppy it must score high in all three areas. At times a structurally correct puppy may not have the best temperament for competitive events, and a senior family doesn't need a puppy with a high working drive. When we complete the testing we vaccinate each of the puppies and tattoo them with their individual identification number - that designates their dam, her litter number, and the number of puppy within the litter - in their left ear. This tattoo must be read and entered in the medical records of the puppy by the families veterinarian at the time of the "well puppy check" within 10 days of receiving the puppy for our 2 year from date of birth guarantee to go into effect. As soon as the testing is completed we start crate training the puppies. The first night two puppies are put into a crate with the gate on, and given 3 small treats. They are cuddled before being put into the crate, and we use the "in" command which they are used to. When they are taken out in the morning they are hugged and cuddled again, and given their "go potty outside" command as we take them "out" the front door. The second night they are crated individually, and are also crated during the day for short periods of time, to get them used to taking "naps" in their crates. They are always given three tiny biscuits when we want them in their crates, and usually within three days they compete to see who can get in the crates first and turn around for their treats. Usually at this age the puppies will crate from approximately PM to about AM without having accidents in their crates, however I do get up in the middle of the night and let them out if someone gets really fussy. In hot summer weather they at times need out during the night to get a drink just as much as they need out to go potty. We always make their last soft feeding of the day by PM, so that they have plenty of time to evacuate before bedtime. Remember poodle puppies are very smart, and if they get me up several nights in a row - I watch very carefully to see if they really needed to go - and if not they have just decided to get me out of bed for some extra attention and playtime - remember the pre-adolescent who wants another drink of water, etc. They will test their new families in the same way, and if they win they are ruling the family instead of the family ruling them. At this point the puppies are ready to go to their new homes to families living locally, or those driving from other states to get their puppies. If they are flying we keep them for two more weeks - and ship when they are approximately 10 - 12 weeks old. This allows us to start travel training and leash training of the puppies, and allow them to develop better holding capacity for daytime crating before shipping. Also it gives us time to receive family t-shirts worn until sweaty and placed in ziploc bags to give to the puppies in their crates three days before shipping. Having items of clothing which we tie into knots for a pillow or toy allows the puppy to get used to it's new families scents, and helps it to adapt and bond much more quickly. It also gives us time to ship their puppy pack to them, before the puppy is shipped. We follow up on our puppies for years, and encourage our families to keep in touch with us and contact us with any questions regarding nutrition, training problems or needs. We also board our own puppies back, which is wonderful as then we get to assess their development and personalities as adults. We have families now who purposefully plan their vacations for the Oregon Coast just so they can leave their much loved poodles with us - they come from as far away as Montana, Idaho, north eastern Washington, California, Utah, and of course the closer regions of Oregon and Washington. Unless we are expecting a litter imminently they get to come back and live in the house with us, and always enjoy playing with so many other poodles in our huge back yard, and side yard play areas. We also continue any training that is in progress on the younger puppies. A Mandy boy at 15 weeks! A Lucy daughter at 1 year - sent by her family in Idaho Many of our families also return with their puppies to take the one-on-one grooming classes with us - with Mishelle now being the primary instructor. Many of our families are now doing all of their own grooming, and even if they aren't have found the class very beneficial as they have learned what to expect from a good groomer. Many have returned for second and even third classes to learn advanced scissoring techniques, and several are now learning show grooming and handling from us as well. It's biblical that the older are to teach the younger - and we feel very strongly about this after not finding anyone willing to assist us when we first started out. We want those who have a true desire to become breeders of the poodles to start in the right way, learning to do the proper testing and research, taking part in genetic research projects, learn to groom their poodles properly, and to breed properly, caring for their whelping bitches and puppies correctly. Mishelle should have been in the picture with "Eve" but was in the Show Ring with her instead. She groomed 14 standards and 2 miniatures for this show. The poodle is a wonderful and unique breed - sharing life with it's family. Stages of Puppy Development Birth to 3 weeks The first 20 days of a pups life it is not capable of much learning. The mental capacity is about nil. The pup will react when it is in need of food, sleep, warmth and its mother. During the first 3 weeks it is VERY important to look after the dam as well. She will in turn, look after the puppies. Once or twice a day the puppies should be handled by a human and they should be weighed daily. During the first 3 weeks most dams like to be in a warm secluded area, not in the family living area. Pups remain contently in their whelping box for the first 20 days of their life. Newborn puppies sleep most of the day away. No matter what the breed, this is the time when the dormant senses wake up. From day 21 to 28 puppies are in need of their mom more than any other time as their brains and nervous systems begin to develop and they become aware of their surroundings. As mom jumps out of the box, they suddenly watch her wondering where she went. Pups may start climbing out of the whelping box at this age, so it is time to expand their home. At this stage we add a small potty area beside the whelp box. If a puppy were to loose his mom at this stage it would greatly affect his emotional wellbeing. Emotional growth is just blossoming as the puppy realizes it is alive. It is also at this age that characteristics can develop like shyness and fear. Any negative characteristics that develop at this stage in life are often permanent personality traits. The puppies sleep 20 or more hours a day. They will not go far, but they will begin to explore. At this time we expand their area to add a play and eating area in the daytime. This is the time to move them out to the kitchen and family room area, where life is happening in the home. This is not the age to be in the back bedroom, garage or barn. During this time, a puppy will learn to respond to voices, sounds and recognize different people. The puppies in their group will establish a 'pecking order', some will want to lead and some will want to follow. The dominant ones will eat first and the omega ones will wait. The dominant ones can become bullies and hog all the toys. This is an important stage to watch to learn the temperaments of each puppy and should be used for placing puppies into the proper homes. Some scientific studies prove that if there is a bully in a litter that is making others cower and be shy it can set in traits that are very hard to turn around, but it is also important to leave puppies in a social group long enough to be adventurous and for the puppy to acquire some social competitive skills. On the same note, a puppy should never be allowed to get too pushy. While shyer puppies have to learn to handle themselves in social groups, a dominant puppy needs to learn it is not acceptable to be a bully. Different breeds need to be separated at different ages. Often if the bully is adopted out first the remaining puppies will loose some of their shyness. Puppies at this age sleep 18 to 20 hours a day. By 7 weeks, a pup is considered emotionally developed and ready to learn, but the pup does not possess an adult brain yet. At 7 weeks old the breeder of the pups can start crate training for an hour or two a day with 2 pups in a crate. This helps with separation anxiety. By 8 weeks of age a puppy should be able to go in a crate alone for a nap, and it is almost ready for its new home. A puppy should never be taken away from it's mother before weeks of age. The mother dog teaches the puppies in the litter manners, respect, social skills, and proper etiquette, along with many other valuable lessons. When a puppy misses this stage it can cause the pup to have future behavior issues as most humans do not understand natural dog behavior enough to teach the pup these things. What a puppy learns now will be retained and become part of who the dog becomes and his personality. Most dams stop caring for their pups by 7 weeks, as they have teeth and she pushes them away. If a pup is left with the dam during this period it's emotional development can be altered, as it remains dependent on her. The same can happen if littermates are placed together. They rely on each other instead of the new owner and they often do not find adequate security in their mom or littermate. They need their new owner to take over the role and it is important that the humans understand natural dog behavior in order to fulfill the puppies instincts and needs. First shots should be done at 7. When a puppy stays with his litter after 8 to 9 weeks of age without adequate human contact it doesn't adjust as well to a human social life. The optimum time to take a new puppy is from 8 to 9 weeks of age. It is always best to have a pup do his learning from his new owner and in his new home. Puppies are often adopted out at 8, 9, 10 or 11 weeks. Older puppies can do just fine if the breeder has spent a lot of time socializing them away from their littermates. Ideally 9 weeks seems to be the perfect age for most breeds to go to new homes. What the dog learns from 8 to 12 weeks will be with him forever. At this time the puppy must be introduced to other people and go for walks on the pavement street avoiding dirt or grass until it has had its 2nd shots. If the first shots are done at 8 weeks and second are done at 12 weeks it is a good idea to enroll in puppy kindergarten that starts right at 12 weeks. At this age on up to several months old, puppies will sleep 16 to 20 hours a day, give or take depending on the puppies energy level and the activity around them. Sleeping more during rapid growth sprurts. The sleep is broken up between night time sleep and naps during the day. It is common for a puppy to play hard, running around with bounds of energy, then suddenly crashing into a deep sleep. It is important to keep in mind that all puppies by this time have formed a general personality. Some are natural born leaders, some are middle of the road and could go either way and some are very submissive and really prefer not to lead anything. All puppies have an instinct to have a leader who can provide structure, because in their minds without it the pack cannot survive. Therefore even the most naturally born submissive dog may feel the need to take over as an alpha should they feel everyone else around them is too weak to care for the pack. These dogs are often very stressed out about their role because they really do not want it, but feel the need to lead just the same. After all, to them it's a matter of life or death. One of the biggest questions new owners call about is that the pup is an angel for the first couple weeks and then it starts to nip in an attempt to control things around it. This happens when a puppy does not see the humans as natural born leaders to which it can respect and it attempts to get the pack in order. If this happens it does not necessarily mean you got a bad puppy, but often means you are not being a good canine owner. Owners must be calm but firm and follow through. Set the rules of the home and stick to them. Teach basic obedience and how to heel on a leash. Do not let the puppy bolt out the door. Stay calm and confident and remember that dogs can feel your emotions. If you have emotional problems your dog knows and will see you as a weak being. Always remember to a dog anger is a weakness, so take a deep breath and control yourself. Should the puppy feel it is stronger minded than the humans it will not want to be at the bottom. Puppy owners should be prepared that the pup may attempt to establish itself as the dominant one in the family. This is where you need to understand a dog's natural instincts and learn their language so you can read them. It may see whether it can physically strike out at his owner like some teens and could nip or growl. Should this happen be prepared to stop the behavior immediately. It is kind of like kids wanting dessert before dinner or to stay up later. You just have to say NO. Each dog is different, just as kids are, therefore you need to figure out what works for you and your situation. If it is being aggressive one method is to pin it on its back and hold him there with a firm NO. If a pup is allowed to get away with bad behavior it will lose respect for the owner and learn that rebelling gets him his own way. The key is for the humans to be calm, confident and firm all at the same time. If you find yourself yelling or angry you as the human are out of control and need to learn how to portray yourself as someone your dog can look up to and respect. Dogs do not listen to unstable humans and anything but calm, confident and firm, to them is unstable. There should be zero tolerance for aggressiveness. Heaps of love and understanding will not stop bad behavior. A pup must be shown fast and firmly that you are the one in charge. If you have a good breeder who understands the dog even returning him for a few days can help as the breeder gets the dog back under control and you assess your own behavior and understanding of this animal you are trying to live with. Sending a dog away to be trained without training yourself never works, as the way your dog is acting often has more to do with the humans it is living with. This goes for any dog of any age. Learn how to groom your dog. Teach it to lie still for grooming and nail trimming. If you are having trouble call the breeder or a behaviorist for help. It is best to have earned a dog's respect and trust in regards to grooming by 16 weeks of age. A pups natural instinct will be to periodically try to test the order in the pack. Especially if there are children. If the owner is submissive, quiet and week, thus making the dog feel the need to lead the home, its respect for its owner will weaken and the owner will become inferior in the dogs eyes. In these cases the owner is destined to be owned by the dog and you will surely see behavior problems emerge. A puppy should have a good start on crate training when it leaves a breeder's home. Help your puppy feel secure by giving it its own bed and crate in a place where it can be alone when it needs some quiet time. It should be crated for one or two naps per day, especially when making and eating dinner and crated at night. It should not ever have the run of the house till after 6 months of age or housebreaking and training can become very difficult. A puppy should start formal obedience by 6 months of age, preferably sooner. Remember when you choose to adopt a dog you are choosing to take an animal into your home. The animal is not a human baby and humans are not born with canine instincts. Take some time to learn about the canine and be prepared to change your way of life to accommodate the new member of the family. The puppies have arrived. They have been weighed and identified; they have nursed and are now sleeping quietly except for the normal twitching. Now what? Your job is not over yet, in fact, it's really just beginning. Nutrition and Feeding The mother will be ready for some food and water. Bring the dishes to the whelping box, as she will not want to leave the newborn puppies. Do not leave the dishes on the floor in the whelping box, as the puppies could crawl into them. Hang the dishes from the side of the whelping box or offer her food and water at least every hours to start. She should be taken outside on a frequent and regular basis to relieve herself. Within days, the mother's appetite will dramatically increase to times her pre-pregnancy intake. She will need a near constant supply of a high quality puppy food do NOT use large breed puppy formulas, which are generally lower in protein, fat, and minerals and water to maintain her weight and health while feeding the puppies. She should not look gaunt or thin if her weight is maintained. Ideally, she should weigh the same at the time of weaning, as she did when she was bred. A healthy puppy is firm, plump, and vigorous. Puppies should nurse every 2 hours or so. If they nurse until their stomachs appear round and they sleep quietly, they are eating enough. If they are crying and moving a lot, they are not eating enough. They may be swallowing air, which makes the stomach appear larger. As they become weaker, they will lay still and not cry. Their weight should double in the first days. Before, during, and after nursing, the mother will lick the stomach and perineal area to stimulate urination and defecation. She will continue to do this for weeks. Weigh the puppy daily for the first 2 weeks, then weigh at least weekly. A food scale typically works well for weighing the puppies. Failure to gain weight is often the first sign of illness in puppies. At about 3 weeks of age, the puppies will begin to imitate the mother's eating and drinking. A secure shallow water dish should now be available at least part of the day. Prepare the puppy mush by placing 2 cups of high quality dry puppy food in a blender with .This should be blended until the consistency of human infant cereal. This feeds puppies of a medium-sized breed. The puppies should receive meals a day of this to start. Once the puppies have checked it out, walked in it, and have eaten some, the mother can be allowed to finish it and clean the puppies off. Each week, increase the amount of food, decrease the amount of the milk replacer and water that is added and the time of blending, so by 7 weeks of age, the puppies are eating dry food. Once they are on dry food, it may be left in with the puppies when the mother is out of the box or the meal times can continue. As the puppies eat more solid food, the mother may be let away from the puppies for an ever longer period of time. If the weaning is not rushed, she will naturally start decreasing milk production, as the puppies increase their intake of solid food. As the puppies begin eating the puppy mush at 4 weeks of age, start changing the mother's diet back to adult food to also help her decrease milk production. Keep increasing the adult food and decreasing the puppy food until by the 7th week postpartum she is eating only adult food. Hopefully she has been fed well during pregnancy and lactation so she weighs the same at weaning as she did before pregnancy. Want to learn how to save on your dog's veterinary care? Click here Sanitation and Housebreaking During and after whelping, the mother should be allowed to go outside to urinate and defecate. Take her out on a leash bring a flashlight if it is dark , and watch her closely, as she could have another puppy. The whelping box needs to be changed at least once a day at this stage, and times a day as the puppies begin eating solids and the mother is not cleaning up after them. A large heavy paper may be laid on the bottom, several layers of newspaper over that, and a tightly stretched blanket over the newspaper. The blanket should be large enough to fit under all 4 sides of the box. If the box was made so the sides set into the floor, the sides are picked up, the blanket stretched, and the sides set down to hold the blanket in place. Puppies can become lost under blankets or under wrinkles in blankets. When cleaning, check the consistency and color of the puppy stool. It should be brown and formed, but not overly firm. Any deviations and the veterinarian should be contacted. To facilitate housebreaking, the puppies should be given definite feeding, playing, sleeping, and elimination areas. Once the puppies are mobile, they will use one area for elimination. Cover this area with a layer of newspapers with cedar or pine shavings on top. The new owners then place a small amount of cedar or pine shavings in the preferred location of their yard to aid in housebreaking. Keep the elimination area clean and dry. Puppies head toward the heat source to nurse so do not have the heat source warmer than the mother. Hanging a household thermometer on the inside of the whelping box will help you know the temperature in the box. Puppies typically lay side by side or on top of each other to share warmth. If the puppies are scattered throughout the whelping box and away from the heat lamp, the temperature is too warm. If they are all piled on top of each other, it may be too cold. Puppies need the extra heat, as they are unable to regulate their body temperature until several weeks old. Health of the Mother Each mammary gland and nipple should be checked at least once a day for redness, hardness, discharge, or streaking color. If mastitis develops, the veterinarian should be notified immediately. If caught early, milking out the affected gland and applying hot compresses will help prevent a spread of the problem. Sometimes, antibiotics are necessary. If she gets multiple glands with mastitis, the puppies will need to be bottle fed. The puppies' nails should be trimmed weekly starting within days of birth. This will help prevent some of the scratches on the mother's mammary glands. The deciduous teeth start coming in around day .Check the mammary glands of the mother daily for bite marks. The mother will have a bloody discharge from her vulva which may be quite heavy for several days. It should decrease in amount and become darker and be almost gone within weeks. The mother's hair may have become very thick and luxurious during the pregnancy. Around the time of weaning, the mother starts to shed. This extreme loss of hair coat is natural and it should be back to normal in about another months. This shedding is more extreme than a normal shed cycle and some mothers become quite bald. This is often called 'blowing a coat. Click here Puppy Healthcare Puppies who are not thriving should be examined as soon as possible by a veterinarian to check for birth defects. Some defects, such as a cleft palate are not compatible with life. These puppies should be humanely euthanized. Dewclaws are removed and tails docked at days of age. Make an appointment with your veterinarian for these procedures to be done. Check your breed's standard, as some breeds need to have dewclaws left intact in order to show. Tail length changes, so again, the current breed standard should be consulted. When the puppies are at the clinic and having these procedures done, the mother should be taken for a walk around the block until the puppies are done. She should not be close enough to the clinic to hear the puppies crying. Once they are put back with the mother, the puppies normally nurse and then sleep. Vaccinations are started at weeks of age. Some breeders give a parvo virus vaccine at 5 weeks of age, if the puppies are at a high-risk. Ask your veterinarian if your puppies should be vaccinated early for parvo virus. They recommend puppy deworming for roundworms and hookworms start at 2 weeks of age and be repeated at 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. Thereafter, use a heart worm preventive medication that is also effective against hookworms and roundworms. Foster and Smith suggest that owners of newly acquired puppies obtain the deworming history of their new pup and contact their veterinarian to determine if additional deworming is needed. The mother should be dewormed at the same time as the puppies. A health check done by a veterinarian at weeks of age before the puppies head for new homes should include checks for heart murmurs, hernias, cryptorchidism, demodectic mange, other parasites, eye disorders, etc. Normal puppy development The umbilical cord normally falls off within days of birth. Infections of the umbilicus are rare in clean, well-managed kennels. Puppies normally twitch and jerk while sleeping. This helps with the development of their nerves and muscles. The puppies crawl well by days, walk at 16 days, and have a normal gait at 21 days. They need to be on footing that offers traction. By 4 weeks of age, the puppies follow each other and carry toys in their mouths. They will play-fight with each other and learn how to inhibit their bites. If a puppy bites a littermate too hard, the littermate will yelp and stop playing with him. If the puppy is allowed to bite humans, he will not learn to inhibit his bite. It may be cute as a 7-week old, but it will not be as a 7-year old. Puppies are born without teeth. The deciduous baby teeth start to erupt at weeks of age. All of the deciduous teeth are usually present by 8 weeks of age. The puppies' eyes will open around days of age. The retina matures around 21 days of age. Puppies should see clearly by 4 weeks of age. Do not pry open the lids for any reason, as the immature eye is not yet ready to handle light. If the eyes appear swollen before they open, take the puppy to a veterinarian immediately as an eye infection may be present that needs to be treated to prevent loss of vision. Some puppies will take a day to open the eyes while others will take days. The eyes will have a bluish color to them at first and then change to their adult color over time. If the eyes appear white or solid blue, take the puppy to the veterinarian right away. The ears open at days of age. They should hear clearly by 4 weeks of age. Deafness may not be noticeable while the puppies are together and first noticed when the puppy is in her new home. Interactions Between the Mother and Puppies By the time the puppies are weeks old, the mother should have an area near the whelping box, but separate from the puppies to allow her time to rest. At about this time, the puppies will start trying to leave the box to explore. They should be well supervised and have safe toys available. The box at this point should be big enough to be divided between eating, sleeping, playing, and eliminating rooms. At this stage, a crate with the door removed and lined with sheepskin or a dog bed can be given to the puppies for sleeping quarters and to familiarize them with crates. Puppy Socialization Early socialization of the puppies will help them become confident and develop fewer behavior problems. The puppies should be exposed to everything possible from metal food dishes dropping, to vacuums, garage doors opening and closing, thunderstorms, sirens, garbage trucks going past, cats, and other pets, etc. Do not try to keep the area quiet during the day. The puppies need to get used to normal household noises. Children should be allowed to play outside the whelping box supervised so they do not enter the box or drop toys in , as children behave differently than adults. Everything the puppy is exposed to now, will help her become a well-socialized, unafraid adult. The puppies should be handled several times a day. They can be picked up, their teeth looked at, ears checked, toes played with nails will need a weekly trimming , and have anything that may be done as an adult started slowly now. Play helps to develop the puppy's mind, as he needs to find solutions to problems he encounters. If the puppies are not in new homes by 10 weeks of age, they should be separated from each other for a large part of the day and given one-on-one time with humans. They can have play times during the day, but they should eat, sleep, and be handled separately. Being in a kennel group situation beyond weeks of age decreases trainability. Ready to start saving money on pet wellness care? Then take a look at Mint Wellness, the pet wellness plan that provides fast reimbursement on routine pet care. Save on vaccinations, wellness exams, preventatives, dental, and more!