french bulldog puppy white and brown

french bulldog puppy white and brown

Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Located on a 40 acre farm east of Denver, Colorado we have plenty of space for our dogs to run around and get exercise. Unlike typical breeders we do not confine our golden retrievers to small kennels, but instead let them run and play as much as their hearts desire. Health Guarantee To ensure the health of our golden retrievers we make sure they are always up-to-date on: Health Checkups Shots Health Screenings - OFA certification for hips, elbows, and thyroids We also focus on the mental health of our dogs by keeping them happy interacting with people and other dogs on a daily basis. This ensures excellent temperaments, great dispositions, and that they are extremely well mannered. Before they are sent to their new homes each puppy gets a health checkup from the vet and their first round of shots. We also offer to microchip your puppy when you pick them up to keep them safe. In addition to all of this, we offer a health guarantee protecting against many hereditary problems. At birth: We help the mama clean the puppies so they are introduced to human scent from birth. Birth - 4 weeks old: We bottle feed the puppies in supplement to their mother's milk to ensure they are getting adequate nutrition. Handled from birth to get used to human scent Free time outside their kennel so they can explore their surroundings. Introduced to our pet cat and other dogs to become comfortable around all kinds of animals. All of the things mentioned above are part of how we ensure that our puppies are happy, healthy, and playful when they are ready to go to their forever homes. To see information about available golden retriever puppies and to see pictures from past litters click the links below. Home of Kennel free living and lots of loving! Good Gracious Goldens was created in when I decided to follow in my mothers footsteps as she has been raising them for over 3o years. Recently we welcomed our 3rd child and decided it was time to split the work without compromising the experience for our adopting families. Now we are working along side Lone Oak Goldens, my dear friend Lori. This decision is not one we took lightly as our reputation is very important to us but I knew her care and expertise would only make us better! I could not imagine a more wonderful partner. She raises them in her home in NE and brings them to my home when they are ready as most of our adopting families are in Colorado including many repeat families! Now I can put all my focus in the communication I pride myself on quick replies , while Lori is loving on the puppies and socializing them getting them ready to meet you! And trust me when you see these puppies you'll see just how much love was poured into them!! I like to say us working together for you, is the truly best of both worlds! We love the English Cream and American Golden breed. We couldn't imagine a better way of life! Of course watching them grow up and thrive is amazing, but I would say my favorite part is seeing the families faces when they see their new family member. Thank you for taking the time to read about us! Our Philosophy! We believe dogs and puppies should be unconditionally loved and cared for as they truly become part of your family. When choosing the right puppy for your family, there are many choices out there. Some puppies are raised in undesirable conditions, this is incredibly heart breaking. Which is why we raise our Golden Retrievers with absolutely no kennels. We believe this makes us different from other breeders. As we are continually trying to improve our breeding program. Our reason for raising English Creme Golden Retrievers is because of our love for the breed and the joy our dogs have brought to our lives. We desire an extraordinary puppy for your family too. When you pick us, we have to pick you too, as we too are selective when choosing forever homes for our pups. Within the first 8 weeks of their lives we spend a lot of time helping them develop social skills and simply loving on them. We get to know each one of the puppies and are fully committed to helping you choose the puppy that is best for you and your family based on gender, temperament and color. We recently joined our breeding program with Lone Oak Goldens. Two families raising puppies together equals double the love! We want to thank you for taking the time to let us introduce you to our family dogs "Grace", "London","Ellie", "Viva", "Margo", "Cooper" and "Hudson" along with their sweet puppies! We look forward to meeting you soon! Sincerely, Libby and Lori. Our area has wide open spaces with majestic views of the Rocky Mountains. We are devoted to raising beautiful, healthy, well-balanced and socialized golden and labrador retrievers, goldendoodles, goldadors, bichon frises, cavaliers and cavachons. All of our foundation adults are free from hereditary problems and are backed by a health guarantee. Whether you are looking for a Golden Retriever puppy, Labrador Retriever puppy, Goldendoodle puppy, Goldador puppy, Bichon Frises puppy, Cavalier puppy or Cavachon puppy, we' would love to help you find the perfect dog. We combine excellent confirmation, exceptional good looks, intelligence and athleticism for the perfectly balanced dog. In order to achieve this goal, we begin with wonderful foundation bitches and sires that possess several generations of healthy dogs. Many of our dogs have several generations of clearances. Our puppies are bred for wonderful dispositions and temperaments to provide great companionship and use as family pets, service dogs, therapy dogs, conformation and hunting companions. You will not find more loyal, affectionate, and trustworthy companions. We look forward to hearing from you to tell you more about these wonderful pets and show dogs. Breeders VS. The sad truth is that many pet store purchased pups actually come from puppy mills. Basically, there is zero authenticity with pet stores. When it comes to adopting any animal from a pet store, there is an increased risk of unforeseen health or genetic problems. You also cultivate a life-long relationship with the breeder, meaning support is available to you anytime you may need it. With My Golden Retriever Puppies , you have the option to come and visit both the puppy and the breeder in person! Golden Retrievers are an adaptable breed, meaning they are better at adapting to seasonal changes and various types of climate than certain other breeds. Goldens sport a double-coat, which ensures that these sweet pups are able to tolerate slightly colder temperatures than their friends from other breeds. Your pup deserves better than that, which is why here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we ensure high-quality care is taken of your pet at all times. For more about the true price of a golden retriever puppy, you can read our full price breakdown here. Location Information for Colorado Customers Our home office is located in Ohio, but we understand that long-distance travel can be inconvenient. If you prefer to meet a breeder in person, they may be able to offer private visits at their home. Of course! Here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we value family and authenticity, which is why we always guarantee our pups through our 2-year genetic health guarantee. Like adopting a Golden Retriever from a pet store, there is an increased risk when adopting a pup from a rescue center or shelter as well. For example, pups purchased through a shelter or rescue center are far less likely to come with the kinds of health guarantees and reassurances that a breeder can provide. What type of Golden Retrievers are sold in Colorado? We have some good news! Ready to make your Golden Retriever dreams come true? Take a look at our convenient list of available puppies. How do I know which breeders to trust in Colorado? Our independent network of trusted breeders have already been pre-screened and verified, so that you can focus on what really matters: choosing your dream puppy. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. Best Golden Retriever Breeder in Colorado? Well, we will let you be the judge, but we love our dogs like family and treat them as such. We do not over breed our dogs or participate in any crossbreeding tactics or exotic dog types. We are Golden Retriever lovers, enthusiasts, and protectors. Every dog is like family to us. While we are happy to entrust our puppies to loving families, we do have a puppy acquisition process in order to ensure our high quality dogs are delivered to warm homes that are able to care for our dogs properly. Every puppy we sell is depending on us to properly screen new owners, so please understand we take this seriously. This also protects your interests and maintains high standards for you as well. All puppies MUST be picked up in person. No exceptions. Golden Retriever Lovers Welcome! If you have a wonderful home for one of our puppies, we would love to hear from you. Whether you want a family retriever or a specialty dog for hunting, we will help find the exact fit for you. Many times there is a waiting list so apply early! If you are just getting started and would like to discuss our process, we are also eager to hear from you. Contact Us Today! Look at the current breedings or litters we have or are upcoming and fill out our contact form specifying what breeding you are interested in. Before puppies are born we only take deposits on the first pick, second, and possibly third picks on both males and females. After puppies are born and all spots are filled you will be told what pick you have. Get ready to welcome a lovely puppy that will bring all the love and affection. Tucker is now 3 born and is my best companion. Tucker is the quintessential Golden, beautiful, faithful, active, family-oriented, and geez I cannot come up with enough good things to say. Tucker is my soulmate. He makes me smile every day. If I feel bad he cares and comes to comfort me. He is so wonderful. My parents adopted another Slater Creek Golden, different parents, and she is phenomenal. So beautiful and sweet. Slater Creek Goldens are all love, loyalty and so much fun. Linda — you and your pups are my favorite ppl! Linda you will be in my heart forever.

Spots, coats, eye colors, and skin types all make dogs as unique as human beings. Considering the rarity, albinism in dogs is an especially curious case. Here are a few interesting facts you should know about albino dogs. Stephanie Pumphrey, assistant professor of veterinary ophthalmology at Tufts Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine, notes that the true telltale sign of an albino dog would be lack of pigment around their eyes. For a dog to be considered albino, he or she must lack the genes necessary to produce melanin, the pigment responsible for skin and hair coloring. There are other coat patterns that can be confused for alibinism, however, such as merle and piebald patterns. These coat patterns result in something similar to albino, and most often occur in Australian Shepherds, Great Danes, Dachshunds, and Collies, to name a few. Albinism occurs more often when dogs have two copies of a recessive gene, she says, which will cause the characteristics of albinism. Margaret Casal, associate professor of medical genetics at the School of Veterinary Medicine at the University of Pennsylvania, advises that albino dogs come with higher risk of numerous health issues. Pinterest Email Albinism is rare in all animals, including dogs, and many people easily confuse white-coated dogs, or dogs that exhibit forms of albinism, for albino dogs. True albinism is a genetic condition in which pigmentation of eyes, coat, and skin is completely absent. An important distinction to draw between dogs with white coats and albino dogs is that white-coated dogs produce the color white, while albinos only appear white due to lack of pigmentation. Albino dogs, or dogs with a form of albinism, are unable to produce sufficient melanin. White is a color; albinism is the absence of color. All-white dogs have genetic markers by virtue of which the white pigment masks, or suppresses, all other colors. Albinism, on the other hand, is caused by the absence of both melanin and the enzymes that produce it. That said, some dogs exhibit characteristics of albinism without being true albinos. How can you tell if you have an albino dog? Without genetic testing, albino dogs can only be determined most easily by a close inspection of his nose and eyes. Like albino cats , the eyes and the tissue surrounding the eye sockets of albino dogs appear to exhibit a pinkish hue. The pink in both eyes and skin is not true pink, though. What seems to be pink is actually the result of diffused blood flow in these areas. Photo by eunjishere on Instagram. Dog and cat eyes are able to process a great deal more available light than human eyes. This is not only why they have far superior night vision , but also why their eyes appear red in flash photography. This is Gohan, an albino dog. Note the absence of color on the nose and around the eye sockets. Photo by gohan the dog on Tumblr. Partial albinism in dogs Some dogs may appear to be true albinos, but retain some pigmentation, which will be most noticeable on the nose or stomach. We can call this partial albinism, but there is actually a range of melanins, and as such, a wide variety of albinisms are possible and observable in dogs. Eyes and skin of albino dogs may appear pink, but it is the diffused color of blood vessels. Posted by a life of pitbulls on Tumblr. That said, in cases of partial albinism, dogs produce only a small amount of melanin, sufficient to produce limited coloration. With the exception of small areas of pigmentation, whether in eyes, skin, or coat, what remains will retain that extremely pale, color-drained appearance. Merle-coated dogs exhibit splotches or patches of color, not only on the coat, but on the skin as well. This beautiful dog is Keller, a double merle Australian Shepherd. Her owner writes very movingly about the difficulties and health issues of double merle dogs, not to be confused with albinos. Photo by allaussies on Tumblr. Dogs with merle coats are also prone to having heterochromatic, or different-colored, eyes. As in white cats, the genes responsible for coat color, eye, and ear health are not causally linked, so white and albino dogs are not necessarily more likely to be born blind or deaf. Double merle dogs, like Keller in the photo above, may be mistaken for albino dogs. Unlike true albino dogs, who, aside from light sensitivity, are generally healthy, double-merle-coated dogs are at higher risk for both deafness and blindness. Light sensitivity in albino dogs Melanin serves a number of uses in the body aside from providing pigmentation. In the eyes, the presence of melanin is one thing that allows dogs to process and filter light. For a true albino dog, without melanin or without much, direct sunlight causes pain in their eyes which makes them squint. True albino dogs should get minimal and carefully managed exposure to direct sunlight. Albino dogs, or dogs with partial albinism, are highly sensitive to direct sunlight. Photo by gordy stop being weird on Tumblr. Light filtration is not the only purpose for melanin. Further, albino dogs are far more prone to sunburn and to developing skin cancers due to their extreme photosensitivity. Share your experiences with albino dogs Though it is rare, albinism is not restricted to any particular breed of dog. Have you ever owned or encountered any albino dogs? What breed or mix was the dog? If you have lived with and cared for an albino dog, what differences and adjustments did you make, in terms of regular exercise routines or living conditions, to make sure his needs were met? Learn more about dogs with Dogster:. By Shannon Cutts 1 Comment The white standard Poodle is a particularly striking and memorable coat color. They stand around 15 inches tall and weigh about 70lbs. And although white dogs are in general more likely to be deaf than other colors and occasionally have dermatological issues, their other predispositions to disease are the same. Sometimes the white Poodle is called the white French Poodle, out of a mistaken idea that the Poodle hails from France. This dog was actually first bred in Germany! But the French people love Poodles and have chosen the Poodle as their national dog — hence the nickname. The Poodle is a remarkable sight in any coat color. But there is just something about a white Poodle, especially a white standard Poodle done up in a full show clip complete with pompons! A white Poodle is not an albino Poodle. Albino dogs are actually quite rare, but many dogs have white coats. You can easily tell the difference by looking at eye color. Poodles nearly always have dark-colored eyes, and some light-coated Poodles will have amber eyes. Other standard coat colors include silver, silver beige, red, gray, cream, black, brown, blue, and apricot. Non-standard coat colors include bi-coated Poodles. An example of a bi-coated Poodle might be white and silver or red and white. About White Poodles and Deafness Canine researchers have confirmed a link between white coat color and canine deafness. The Poodle But it does mean that deafness is more likely to occur in white-coated dogs than in other dogs. The Poodle with or without a white coat is one of an estimated 85 dog breeds prone to inherited deafness. The current theories regarding heritable deafness linked to the white coat color include a possible recessive gene and a lack of pigmentation along the inner ear canal. Many deaf dogs and their owners live long and happy lives together with a little help from deaf dog training. White Poodle Dog Shedding and Grooming The white Poodle has the same enviable quality as Poodle dogs of different coat colors: a nearly non-shedding coat. This has given Poodles a reputation as hypoallergenic dogs, although technically they still have the same allergy-triggering protein in their skin, urine, and saliva as do all other dogs. Where the hypoallergenic label comes into play relates to the amount of contact that you, as a Poodle owner, can expect to have with this protein, which can be shed out along with falling fur. This keeps your clean-up chores to a minimum and also minimizes your contact with fur-born protein allergens. If you or someone in your family is sensitive to pet dander, a Poodle could be a good choice for a family pet. Even so, a daily brush will go a long way to keep tangles from forming while removing any trapped debris as well. The white miniature Poodle can weigh up to 15 pounds and stand up to 15 inches tall. The white toy Poodle will weigh four to six pounds and stand no taller than 10 inches. A white teacup Poodle is the smallest Poodle, typically weighing between two and four pounds and standing no taller than eight inches. They are also known as micro Poodles! White Poodle Dog Temperament and Personality To date, there is no confirmed link between the white coat color in Poodles and any differences in temperament or personality. Rather, a white Poodle from a reputable, health-focused breeder will display the same loving, intelligent, and active personality that Poodles as a breed are known for. The white standard Poodle is a top pick for families with young children. The standard Poodle makes a great family watchdog and will be gentle and loving towards their family — children and adults alike. However, a small white Poodle miniature, toy, or teacup size is not generally regarded as a suitable pet dog for families with small children. Smaller Poodles can have a more anxious or high-strung temperament. They tend to poorly tolerate rough play and can also be easily injured if they get underfoot. Training and Socialization The standard Poodle and smaller Poodles miniature, toy, teacup face different challenges during the training and socialization process. This stems from their slightly different natures — the standard Poodle is typically calm and centered unless guarding duties indicate otherwise. A white mini Poodle, white toy Poodle, or white teacup Poodle, on the other hand, may display more anxiety in the presence of strange people, animals, or situations. A white Poodle of any size will benefit greatly from early and ongoing training and socialization, including exposure to unfamiliar people, animals, and situations. This will help your white Poodle learn to be a happy, healthy, productive member of your family and local community. Exercise A white standard Poodle or white small Poodle is an active dog breed. The Poodle breed first gained its start in Germany as a breed meant to assist human hunters with retrieving ducks. These dogs are great swimmers! They are also all-around excellent athletes and excel at pretty much any type of canine sports, including dock diving, agility, obedience, tracking, and other sports. Poodles also love to play, with games of fetch being a particular breed favorite. A white Poodle of any size will thrive with lots of daily activity. For smaller Poodles, be sure to modify activities to account for their shorter legs and smaller size. White Standard Poodle Health Issues Not all known breed-specific health issues can be detected before you make a lifelong commitment to a white Poodle or a Poodle with any coat color. A white standard Poodle, like other large dog breeds that have deep chests, is at risk to develop bloat gastric torsion. Bloat occurs when the stomach twists, and it can quickly become fatal. Smaller white Poodle dogs are not typically at risk for bloat. Standard Poodles should be tested for hip dysplasia and eye issues. Cardiac and thyroid function tests are also highly recommended. Standard Poodle Puppoes Be prepared to make a substantial investment if you choose a white Poodle of any size. Choosing a White Poodle Puppy The best approach when selecting your new white baby Poodle is to look for a healthy, energetic, curious, and friendly Poodle puppy. Whether you are choosing a puppy from a litter of white standard Poodle puppies, or you have your eye on a white mini Poodle or white toy Poodle puppy, be sure the breeder you work with can show proof that all required genetic health tests and vaccinations have been done. Resources James et al. Strain, G. Lee, C. White Poodles are classified as light to non-shedders. They will drop a few strands of hair here and there throughout the year but will not undergo heavy seasonal shedding like other breeds. Are White Poodles Hypoallergenic? White Poodles, like all other Poodle coat colors and patterns, are considered to be hypoallergenic as they do not produce or release much allergy inducing dander into their immediate environment. Sometimes smaller sizes of Poodle such as Toy Poodles are considered to be more hypoallergenic than other Poodle sizes as smaller dogs produce less dander than larger dogs. You can make your dog even more hypoallergenic by keeping up a good grooming routine as it will stop them from releasing allergens into your home. A brush down with a slicker brush every other day is ideal to remove any loose hairs. As for washing, a bath with a gentle dog shampoo every 3 months will remove dead skin cells, dirt and debris. They get to a height of up to 10 inches .Are White Toy Poodles Rare? White Toy Poodles are not that rare despite the coat color being a recessive trait. There are many other coat colors that are quite rare for Toy Poodles like apricot, red and sable. They are 10 to 15 inches .They are 18 to 24 inches .Toy Poodles are fully grown between 6 and 7 months of age. Mini Poodles are fully grown between 7 and 12 months of age. An adult sized dog raincoat to keep them dry during wet weather An adult sized dog life jacket to help with swimming in lakes and oceans An adult sized dog jacket for cold winter weather A dog cooling vest if you live in a hot climate High quality no-pull dog harness to reduce stress on their neck while walking And other similar products.

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Breeds The link has been copied! French Bulldogs are an adorable and popular breed of dog known for their distinctive bat-like ears. These cute canines have captured the hearts of people all around the world, but many potential owners wonder when their furry friends' ears will stand up. The good news is that French Bulldog ears typically do stand up eventually, but the process can vary from dog to dog. In this article, we'll explore the fascinating world of French Bulldog ears and learn when you can expect them to stand up. So get ready to fall even more in love with these lovable pups! Typically, French Bulldog puppies' ears will start to stand up between weeks of age. However, some puppies may take longer to develop, and their ears may not stand up until they are 6 months old or even longer. The reason for this variation is that each dog's genetics play a significant role in the shape and development of their ears. While you're waiting for your puppy French Bulldog's ears to stand up, it's also a good time to work on potty training. Starting early and using positive reinforcement techniques can help establish good habits and prevent accidents in the house. With patience and consistency, you can successfully potty train your Frenchie while also enjoying their adorable and unique appearance. It is also important to note that some French Bulldogs' ears may never stand up fully, which is completely normal and doesn't affect their health or happiness. So, whether your Frenchie's ears stand up quickly or take their time, they will still be adorable and loved. French Bulldogs are famous for their cute and distinctive bat-like ears, and owners often wonder when their puppy's ears will stand up. Typically, French Bulldog puppies' ears will begin to stand up between weeks of age. However, it's not unusual for some puppies to take longer to develop, and their ears may not stand up until they are several months old. It's essential to note that the ear development process can be different for each puppy. Some may have both ears standing up at the same time, while others may have one ear up and the other down for a while. This variation is normal and not necessarily a cause for concern. As your French Bulldog's ears start to stand up, you may notice some changes in their behavior. They may become more attentive and start to respond to sounds and noises around them. Their ears will also become more sensitive, and they may start to tilt their heads to listen to sounds better. If your French Bulldog's ears are not standing up by the time they reach six months of age, it's worth speaking to your veterinarian. Still, it's important to note that some French Bulldogs' ears may never stand up fully, and this is completely normal and doesn't affect their health or happiness. If your French Bulldog's ears are still down even after they are six months old, there could be a few reasons why. Firstly, it's worth noting that every dog is unique, and some may take longer to develop than others. While most French Bulldog puppies' ears start to stand up between weeks of age, it's not unusual for some puppies to take a bit longer. However, if your French Bulldog's ears are still down past the six-month mark, it's worth speaking to your veterinarian to rule out any underlying health issues. Sometimes, ear infections or other medical conditions can affect the development of your dog's ears. Another reason why your French Bulldog's ears may be down is genetics. It's possible that your dog inherited genes from their parents that affect the shape and position of their ears, resulting in ears that may not stand up fully. Finally, it's essential to remember that not all French Bulldogs' ears will stand up fully, and this is completely normal. Your furry friend will still be adorable and loved, regardless of whether their ears stand up or not. Yes, it is entirely possible for French Bulldog ears to stay down. While many French Bulldog puppies' ears will start to stand up between weeks of age, there is always variation in the development of individual dogs, and some may have ears that do not stand up fully. Additionally, genetics can play a significant role in the shape and development of French Bulldog ears. Some French Bulldogs may inherit genes from their parents that result in ears that do not stand up fully. It's worth noting that a French Bulldog's ear position does not affect their health or happiness. Whether their ears are up or down, your furry friend will still be a beloved member of your family. If you're concerned about your French Bulldog's ears, it's always best to speak to your veterinarian to rule out any underlying health issues. However, if your dog is healthy and happy, don't worry too much about their ears. They will still be adorable and loved just the way they are! The exotic coloring of a French Bulldog, such as lilac , merle , fluffy , platinum , or red fawn , is determined by genetics and is not related to the dog's ear position. The color of a French Bulldog's coat is determined by the interaction between different genes, and the resulting coat color is usually evident from birth. The ear position of a French Bulldog can change as the dog grows and develops, but this is not related to changes in coat color or pattern. It is worth noting that some French Bulldogs may experience changes in their coat color or pattern over time, but this is typically due to factors such as exposure to sunlight, diet, or hormonal changes. Additionally, while a Frenchie's ears may change in position as they grow, it is unlikely to have any impact on the dog's coat color or pattern. It is important to note that the term " Micro French Bulldog " is not a recognized or standardized term by reputable breed organizations, and is often used to describe French Bulldogs that have been bred for a smaller size through breeding practices. In general, the time it takes for a French Bulldog's ears to stand up can vary from dog to dog, and is not necessarily related to the dog's size or breeding. Here are two easy ways to help your French Bulldog's ears stand up: Add Calcium-Rich Foods to Their Diet One way to help your French Bulldog's ears stand up is to make sure they are getting enough calcium in their diet. Calcium is a crucial nutrient that supports bone development and growth, including the cartilage in your dog's ears. You can increase your French Bulldog's calcium intake by adding calcium-rich foods to their diet. Foods like yogurt, cheese, and bone broth are excellent sources of calcium and can help support the development of your dog's ears. Consult Your Vet About Calcium Injections or Supplements If you're concerned about your French Bulldog's ear development or think they may need additional calcium, speak to your veterinarian about the best course of action. Your veterinarian can advise you on the appropriate dosage and form of calcium to give your dog, as well as monitor their health to ensure they are not experiencing any negative side effects. In addition to discussing calcium supplementation with your veterinarian, they can also rule out any underlying health issues that may be affecting your French Bulldog's ear development. If there are any health concerns, your veterinarian can provide treatment or recommend lifestyle changes that can help support your dog's overall health and wellbeing. What Taping Method Is the Best? While there are several methods of taping French Bulldog ears, there is no one "best" method that works for all dogs. Each dog is unique, and their ear development can vary, so what works for one dog may not work for another. However, there are a few general guidelines to keep in mind when taping French Bulldog ears. First, it's important to start taping as early as possible, ideally between weeks of age when the ears are still soft and pliable. This can help encourage the ears to stand up and prevent them from flopping over. When taping, use a soft, non-irritating tape, such as a surgical or athletic tape, and avoid using anything too sticky that can pull or damage the skin. It's also important to wrap the tape gently but securely around the base of the ear, creating a slight fold in the ear to help encourage it to stand up. Taping Their Ears Step-By-Step Guide It's essential to follow proper techniques and guidelines to avoid causing any discomfort or injury to your dog. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to tape your French Bulldog's ears: Clean the ears: Before taping your French Bulldog's ears, make sure they are clean and dry. Use a gentle, pet-friendly ear cleaner to clean the inside of their ears, being careful not to insert the cleaner too far into the ear canal. Prepare the tape: Use a soft, non-irritating tape, such as a surgical or athletic tape, and cut it into strips that are about inches long. Apply the tape: Starting at the base of your French Bulldog's ear, gently fold the ear over and wrap the tape around the base of the ear, creating a slight fold in the ear to help encourage it to stand up. Be sure to wrap the tape gently but securely, avoiding any gaps or wrinkles. Continue wrapping: Continue wrapping the tape around the ear, overlapping each strip of tape slightly, until you reach the tip of the ear. Make sure the tape is snug but not too tight, as this can cause discomfort or injury to your dog. Monitor your dog: Check your French Bulldog's ears regularly to make sure they are not becoming irritated or uncomfortable. If you notice any signs of discomfort or injury, remove the tape immediately and speak to your veterinarian. Remove the tape: After a few days or a week, remove the tape and let your French Bulldog's ears rest for a few days before taping them again. It's important to give your dog's ears time to rest between taping to avoid irritation or injury. It's essential to remember that taping should be done under the guidance of a veterinarian or experienced breeder to ensure that it is done correctly and safely. While taping can be helpful in encouraging ear development, it's not a guarantee that your French Bulldog's ears will stand up. Some dogs may still have ears that do not stand up fully, even with taping. If you have to bandage your French Bulldog's ears, it's important to change the bandage regularly to ensure that it remains clean and dry, and to prevent any irritation or discomfort to your dog's ears. The frequency of bandage changes will depend on your dog's individual needs and the severity of the issue being treated. In general, most veterinarians will recommend changing the bandage at least once a day, and possibly more frequently if the bandage becomes soiled or wet. It's important to monitor your French Bulldog's ears closely while they are bandaged to ensure that the bandage is not too tight or causing any irritation or discomfort. If you notice any signs of irritation or if your dog seems uncomfortable, it's important to remove the bandage immediately and speak to your veterinarian. In addition to changing the bandage regularly, it's important to keep the ears clean and dry, as excess moisture can lead to infection or other issues. Use a gentle ear cleaner to clean the inside of your dog's ears, being careful not to insert the cleaner too far into the ear canal. If you have any concerns about your French Bulldog's ear health or need guidance on how often to change a bandage, it's always best to speak to your veterinarian for advice. Taping French Bulldog ears is generally safe and can be an effective way to encourage ear development and encourage them to stand up. However, improper taping techniques or leaving the tape on for too long can increase the risk of ear infections or other ear-related issues. When taping French Bulldog ears, it's essential to use a soft, non-irritating tape and to wrap the tape gently but securely around the base of the ear. If the tape is too tight or the ears are taped for too long, it can create a warm and moist environment that is conducive to the growth of bacteria and yeast, leading to ear infections or other issues. It's also important to monitor your French Bulldog's ears closely while they are taped, checking for any signs of discomfort or irritation. If your dog seems uncomfortable or if you notice any redness or discharge, it's important to remove the tape immediately and speak to your veterinarian. If your French Bulldog already has an ear infection or is prone to ear-related issues, it may be best to avoid taping their ears or to discuss other options with your veterinarian. Taping French Bulldog ears can cause damage if it's not done correctly or if the tape is left on for too long. Taping too tightly can cut off circulation to the ears, leading to discomfort, pain, and even tissue damage. Similarly, leaving the tape on for too long can cause irritation, rubbing, or even open wounds. It's important to note that taping French Bulldog ears should only be done under the guidance of a veterinarian or experienced breeder to ensure that it is done correctly and safely. The taping should be done with a soft, non-irritating tape and be wrapped gently but securely around the base of the ear. The length of time that taping French Bulldog ears should continue varies from dog to dog and depends on the individual dog's ear development. In general, taping should be done consistently for several weeks, typically between weeks, and should only be done under the guidance of a veterinarian or experienced breeder. If you're concerned about your French Bulldog's ear development or think they may need additional support, it's best to consult with your veterinarian to determine the best course of action for your dog. One benefit of floppy ears is that they can help protect your dog's ear canal. When a dog's ears stand up, the ear canal is more exposed, making it more susceptible to debris and dirt. Floppy ears, on the other hand, provide a natural barrier, helping to keep your dog's ears clean and free from irritants. Additionally, floppy ears can give French Bulldogs a more laid-back, relaxed appearance, which many people find endearing. Floppy ears can also make your dog more approachable to other dogs and people, as they may appear less intimidating with soft, floppy ears. Finally, it's important to remember that a French Bulldog's ear position does not affect their health or happiness. Your French Bulldog can lead a happy and full life no matter how their ears stand. Conclusion French Bulldog ears can be a unique and distinctive feature of this lovable breed, and many owners want to ensure that their dog's ears stand up as they grow. While taping the ears can be helpful in encouraging ear development, it's important to do so under the guidance of a veterinarian or experienced breeder to ensure that it is done correctly and safely. It's also important to note that not all French Bulldogs' ears will stand up fully, and this is completely normal. Whether your French Bulldog's ears stand up or not, they will still be a beloved member of your family, and it's important to prioritize their health and wellbeing above all else. Get more expert advice on pet-parenting by visiting the Off Leash blog at TryFi. TryFi's The Fi Dog Collar is a must-have for any pet parent, it's a GPS tracking collar that helps you keep tabs on your dog's location, activity, and sleep patterns, and alerts you if they escape your backyard. Try the Fi Dog Collar today! The link has been copied! You might also like. Bred to be companion dogs, French bulldogs were also used to hunt rats in Europe before becoming extremely popular there as pets. One of the most noticeable traits of the French bullie has to be their ears. If you own a French bulldog or just adopted a French bullie pup, you probably have a few questions and maybe even concerns about their ears. Occasionally, however, this might not happen until they reach seven or eight months of age. More specifically, it has to do with the calcium that their tiny little bodies are using to make their new teeth. Until they are finished teething, their ears might remain floppy, might perk up and then go back down, and might perk up and stay up, and all due to their body using their calcium supply. Is it One Ear or Both? Usually, this will work itself out over time and both ears will perk up. The truth is, for the first few months of their little doggy lives, French bulldogs are going through a lot of changes and their ears are sort of like a barometer of those changes. One might perk up, then flop back down again while the other perks up and vice versa. In nearly all cases this is simply a natural response to the changes happening in their body. As we mentioned, most French bulldog puppies are born with ears that lay down on the side of their face. By the time they reach adulthood, most Frenchies have two perky ears that stand at attention. The answer to this question would be no. They will still be loveable, kind, and loyal companions. Interestingly, when a French bulldog has ears that stand up at attention, they are more susceptible to infections and other ear problems. Most of the ear problems that you will encounter with your French bulldog are caused by infections due to things like pollen, dirt, and debris, as we mentioned above. Typically, the best way to try and help their ears to stand up is to tape them. There are no real costs to try this except for the cost of some masking tape. Below are step-by-step instructions for taping their ears to try and get them to stand up straight. Be sure to keep each ear oriented in the position that they would normally be if they stood straight up. After the fifth day, carefully remove the masking tape. You also might be one of the lucky French bulldog owners who have a Frenchie with one ear that stands up straight and one ear that flops. This is also completely normal and, in our opinion, makes them even more adorable. One thing to note, however, is that there is no scientific evidence showing that giving your Frenchy cheese or other dairy products will help their ears to stand up or not. It makes sense if you think about it because dairy products contain high amounts of calcium. But, again, no studies have been done showing conclusively if giving them dairy products like cheese works or not. As we mentioned, French bulldogs sometimes have problems with their ears because they stand up straight. To reduce the number of infections and other problems their ears might have, you should clean them once a week. A gentle ear cleaning product or witch hazel can be used along with some unscented baby wipes or doggy cleaning wipes. You can use a cotton ball soaked in the cleaning product you choose, or a wipe. Then, lightly clean the top, front, and side of their ears, avoiding the ear canal. Closing Thoughts cNine out of 10 French bulldogs will have the perky, stand-at-attention ears that many people love. One out of 10 might have one stand up ear and one floppy ear, or they might have two floppy ears. Both of these scenarios are perfectly normal and, in our humble opinion, makes them even more special. Here are some of my favorite Dog and Bulldog Products Thank you for reading this article. I hope you found it helpful for your dog and bulldog questions. These are affiliate links, and I am compensated for referring traffic. But in all honesty, these are the exact product that I use or recommend to everyone. Food For Bulldogs: Royal Canin Bulldog was the dog food our breeder recommended for our bulldog with a bit of canned pumpkin added for each meal to give a bit of extra fiber Poo Bags: For poo bags we use Greener Walker poop bags. We have used them for over a year without having a single leak. Also, these bags are made to be friendlier for the environment. They are good for sensitive skin which bulldogs are known to have. I love this dog bed because it has an outer liner which can be replaced if it gets too beat up. To see all our most up-to-date product recommendations , check out this resource that I made for you! Close share Copy link The French Bulldog is a lively, fun-loving, and intelligent breed, unlike the rest. In a way, you can refer to this cute little pet as a distant cousin of the English Bulldog. But the intriguing thing about the French Bulldogs ears is that they all don't look the same; while some may appear floppy, others may be pointing up. Curiously, this distinction or variation in the appearance of French Bulldog ears provides a source of concern for some Frenchie owners, especially those with floppy ears. Frenchie Shop interacted with some French Bulldog owners and gathered some of their points of concern and questions, most common among them, in order to provide some answers that may be soothing. Almost all French Bulldogs have floppy ears at birth. So, if you noticed that your French Bulldog puppy's ears are floppy you need not worry you wanted your cutie's ears to be pointing up like a bat's because it is not peculiar to you, that's how Frenchie's are born. There's no straight-jacket answer to this question. It may take a couple of weeks, and sometimes, you may start seeing the signs of it springing up within days. It would depend on the level and speed of development of each Frenchie. But ideally, your Frenchie's Ear should start standing at 7 weeks old. There's nothing wrong. When eventually your French Bulldog's ears start standing up, it is not all the time and all Frenchies that both ears rise up at the same time and at the same pace. You might notice that one ear is up and one is down. It could also happen that the following day, the one ear that was down the previous day could be standing up and the one standing up the previous day could go floppy. Sometimes both ears may start going up and in a day or two, both ears or one of them might go down. Also, one ear may be up weeks before the other even starts to show any sign of rising up. The French Bulldog ears do all sorts of wonky things. As a matter of fact, you should see the tricky rise and fall as an entertaining and interesting process. It is actually entertaining and interesting, and not worrisome. There's no cause for alarm. One thing you must know is that each puppy is on his or her own time table, even puppies from the same litter. Some puppy's ear may be perfectly erect at their 4th week while some may take up to 10 weeks. Like I said earlier, at the 7th week, your puppy's ears should already have started showing signs of rising up. If you noticed this, it is better to let the ears stand on their own. But, if at that time you haven't noticed any such sign, there are ways you can help your Puppy's ears to stand up. Use the following techniques: 1. Tape each ear individually with 1. Make sure the ear is kept flat while taping to avoid a wrinkled-looking ear base. Orient ears to the top where they would normally stand erect. Once in the erect position of 11 and 1 O'Clock, tape a connecting bridge from one ear to the other. Leave tape in place for between four to five days, then make a small cut at the base of the tape and gently peel off to remove the tape. We hope these few answers to some Frequently Asked Questions about French Bulldog ears are helpful to you and will help you achieve the perfect ear shape that you want for your French Bulldog. You are most welcome to share with us your experience while your Frenchie's ears were beginning to stand, or what challenges you are facing at the moment with them. They will be soft and floppy when born. In fact, many breeders will say you should even be worried about floppy ear development until the 8-month mark 32 weeks , as puppies all develop at different rates. But what is the reason for all of this, and what can you do about a Frenchie with floppy ears? Frenchies have very big ears when they are puppies. They look completely out of proportion as you can see in this photo of our dog Claude when he was younger compared to being an adult — he was 7 months old in this shot on the left, and 3 years on the right, and had no issue with his ear development. Our Frenchie never had floppy ears. As you can imagine, with ears this big and heavy, it takes a lot of strong ear cartilage to make them stand up and not flop down. So why do some French Bulldogs have floppy ears, and other not? This is the barometer that Frenchie experts use with regards to floppy ears. As the puppy progresses through the teething stage, the cartilage grows strong enough to keep the ears standing up versus their current floppy appearance. Handy Hint: To find out more about teething and how long it takes, read the guide to Frenchie teething that I previously published. They can even go up and down The floppy ears can go up and come back down again during the teething period. Just wait until your Frenchie has stopped teething — and this can be as old as 7 to 8 months — before you make any judgements. Their ears could be floppy, erect, and floppy again at during this time. The first thing I would do is ask the breeder if floppy ears is a hereditary thing. When should you be worried? If you fall into that category, when it the time to panic and take action? Not necessarily, but it might be wise to start the fix before this date… and here are some ways you can do so — most people will start the fixes at around 5 to 6 months. The ideas below are all ones that I have been found via social media and blog posts. All of the methods below should be used before you consider taping. You can start doing this from the age your puppy comes home to live with you from 8 weeks and on: 1. Consult with you vet first Assuming you have spoken to the breeder and ruled out any hereditary ear floppiness, you should talk with your vet first… before you even taking the online advice from a blog, even like mine! Get the vet to do a health check-up to see if there are any development issues. These can include bone spurts, arthritis and joint problems in a growing Frenchie puppy. Instead, give your puppy small amounts of foods such as cottage cheese or yogurt. These are said to encourage calcium growth in their ears. I have heard that this could be a myth though, so ask your vet. Add a cartilage encouraging supplement to their diet Some owners swear by a supplement called glucosamine. You can buy these tablets on Amazon , which are the number 1 supplement according to vets. Give them chew toys Chewing not only helps your Frenchie with teething but the physical act can also strengthen muscle essential for ear development. Dogs have a temporalis muscle at the top of their jaw and under their ear. Strong temporalis muscle helps ear to stand up… therefore, lots of chewing means a reduction in floppy ears. Handy Hint: Find out what chew toys I recommend for Frenchies with this selection of the best chewing toys on the market. I personally think Frenchies with floppy ears look cute, but, each to their own… people who have done this successfully have done so around the 5 to 6-month age. Other reasons for floppy ears Whilst most French Bulldog ears will become erect after the teething phases, there will be some cases where floppy ears, either as a pair or just one, will remain floppy after this point and will never fix. Your vet will be able to diagnose and explain more, but here are the reasons other than teething I found for floppy Frenchie ears: Genetics and breeding: There is a small market for Frenchies with floppy ears. Also known as French Bulldogs with rose ears, breeders will try to engineer puppies with ears that never stand up. This is what it means if you see Frenchies with rose ears for sale. Injury: Frenchie puppies are extremely energetic and can get themselves into various scrapes, some of which could be traumatic to the ears. An ear could get cut, squeezed, or suffer some form of trauma — this can often result in a French Bulldog with one floppy ear only. Frenchie puppies are born deaf with sealed shut ears. After 3 weeks, their ears will start to open. Frenchie ears will stand up between the ages of 5 to 15 weeks. Frenchies will stop teething at around 7 to 8 months. During this period ears can be floppy, up, down, and in varying orders! Frenchie ears should, in most cases, all stand up after 8 months at the latest. After a couple of weeks went back up and never done again. They are a living creature, not a show piece. Leave their ears alone and if one is a bit floppy, just embrace the difference as it will be part of their character! They were up and down as a puppy but eventually never went up again. We think he looks amazing though and love him to bits. She had her dog DNA tested and he had a slight bit of pug in him! They go back up with time. Like ourselves, dogs are not designed to be perfect, how saddening this topic is. Owning a French bulldog is pretty similar to owning a child. When everybody has their own opinions they might make you worry about your Frenchie even if he or she is perfectly healthy. Everywhere you look, you see a Frenchie with erect ears. Their ears make them look unique and just dandy. Then you look at your Frenchie puppy and his or her ears are down. You shouldn't worry about whether or not his or her ears are down, here's why. It important for you to know that all French bulldogs are born with floppy ears, this is absolutely normal. As they grow, their ears gradually become erect, there really is no exact time for this growth to occur. French bulldogs can get their erect ears anytime from 6 weeks to 18 months. There is no hurry. When the Frenchie puppy is still young, their body uses up all of the calcium for growing teeth. During this period, his or her ears may go up, may go up and down, may go droopy, may go up one a time or may not go up at all. Here are some answers to questions you may have. As it has been mentioned, there is no exact time, each puppy is an individual and will develop differently. Some French bulldogs get their erect ears before they are separated from their mother but that is not always the case. Sometimes the ears are erect but droopy at the top. And there is absolutely nothing wrong with that. Their ears being upward or droopy does not in any way affect their personality. As long you clean them regularly and thoroughly, droopy ears have no health-related issues. However, if you really want to give them a little help, there are a few things you can do. But if I happened to own a French bulldog puppy with droopy ears, I would never tape them up so taping a French Bulldog ears is not a recommended method by anyone here at the Frenchiestore. Droopy or floppy ears can give the French bulldog dog a bit of character, a super-cute look and the amusement they bring doubles. It is recommended that you hold on and let nature take its course. The other method would be trying to even or up the calcium levels in your Frenchie. There are a number of ways to figure out whether or not your French Bulldog is a pure breed. They can be easily distinguished from other dogs if you know what to look for. Body Structure French bulldogs are relatively small. Their height is about 10 — 13 inches and they usually weigh under 28 pounds. French bulldogs are known for erect ears with wide bases and rounded tips. A purebred French bulldog will almost certainly have bat ears. This is not to say that they might not be delays in the ears becoming erect. French bulldogs usually have dark brown, almost black eyes. Although in some cases, a French bulldog could have light brown eyes or even green in some of the rare colors Frenchies. French bulldogs also have a short tail that can either be straight or screwed and they hang low below their backs. French bulldogs have a fairly muscular build. With their short, well-rounded bodies, they are usually seen walking actively and unrestrained. Coat The coat of a French bulldog is usually short and smooth. They have soft, loose skin which may form wrinkles around the head and shoulders of the Frenchie. French bulldogs usually have light color bases that come in white, fawn, cream or any combination of these colors. French bulldogs can also have other colors in patterned forms. Some of them include brindle, piebald, black masks, black shading and white markings. The most common of these patterns is the brindle. The brindle pattern could either be sparse or heavily concentrated so that the base color is almost completely hidden. Temperament French bulldogs are incredibly affectionate, they give a lot of love and this makes them great family pets. French bulldogs are alert and attentive, well, they hear you, obeying is another matter. But their energy levels range from low to average. French bulldogs exercise some enviable levels of patience unlike many dog breeds. Even as puppies, they are calmer than most other dogs. French bulldogs are social and usually welcoming towards strangers. They react well to new things and are fairly adaptable. French bulldogs seem to be laid back and easy going. Lookalikes There are a number of dog breeds that have similar appearances to a French bulldog. Sometimes you may even have to do a double take, but if you know what to look for, it is easier to know a French bulldog French Bulldog and English Bulldog: Although the French bulldog and the English bulldog are both bulldogs and naturally have a lot of similarities, there are differences. The English bulldog is bigger and they do not have bat ears. French Bulldog and Boston Terrier: The Boston Terrier bears a striking resemblance to the French bulldog and are commonly confused for one another. But there are a few differences. The Boston Terrier is taller than the French bulldog with about 2 to 4 inches. And though they share similar coat colors and texture, the Boston Terrier can also be seen in seal or black. French bulldogs weigh more. They also have tipped ears instead of a rounder shape than the Frenchie dog. Pugs are smaller than Frenchies, being 10 — 14 inches tall and they have floppy ears rather than erect ears. They have curly tails unlike the short tails of the Frenchie. French Bulldog and Pitbull: American pit bulls have some things in common with a Frenchie but these pit bulls are larger, weighing up to 78 pounds. Both breeds have similar coats though pit bulls can be seen in blue, gray, white, tan, brown, red, yellow or black. However, bull terriers are larger than Frenchies, they weigh as much as 45 pounds — 80 pounds. Bull terriers usually have smooth and dense coats that come in brown white, brindle, black or tricolor. They also have longer muzzle. To find out whether or not your French bulldog is a pure breed, you should consult your vet with any questions or suspicions you may have. To prevent this, always get your Frenchie from reputable breeders. Erect or floppy ears should not determine the amount of love you give to your Frenchie. Be rest assured, nothing is wrong, they deserve all your love and care. Leave a comment. Frenchies win our hearts with their wrinkled little faces and large, bat-like ears. To a French Bulldog, down-turned ears are perfectly natural. Frenchies are born with floppy ears. As the puppies teeth, their little ears begin to perk up. However, there is no precise timetable for this. Sometimes ears will spring up in a matter of days. But it usually takes closer to ten weeks. On occasion, one ear will pop up before the other, creating an adorably lopsided appearance. And sometimes they stick out on either side like bicycle handles. None of this is cause for concern. Each puppy develops differently, even if they come from the same litter. How do I fix it? First, make sure you give your French Bulldog time to grow at his or her own pace. Get some masking tape that is about 1. Gently wrap one strip of tape around each individual ear and ensure that the ear is flat when you do this. Use a longer strip of tape to connect the ears and hold them erect. Leave the tape on like this for four or five days and countless hilarious photos. You may have to repeat this process several times over the course of a few months to see results. Some websites suggest feeding your Frenchie calcium supplements to assist their ears in rising during the teething process. But this method is unproven, particularly because ears are made of cartilage, not bone. Your pup has a unique body that will grow and change in time. That way, whenever they reach full perkiness, those trademark bat ears will be healthy and ready to listen to your commands. Or at least, to hear them.

I have been involved with dogs since my young childhood. Over the years I have come to learn and grow as a breeder. I have come to love the English Type Golden Retrievers in structure, train-ability, type and soundness. Some of my favorite lines and dogs come from Grenadier, Kyon, Birks, and Trowsnest. We have the occasional litters which are raised in my home with my family and friends. We are genuine dog lovers and we care about the breed and where our pups go to live. We have meant many special people through our dogs, and love the breed as they deserve to be loved. Should you decide to own a Golden Retriever, we hope you will be as happy as we are. When we have puppies, we do temperament testing in order to help place them with the right families. Included with each puppy sold is our commitment to provide you with on going support for the life of your new companion, as well as a comprehensive puppy package which includes important information on health, training, socializing and grooming your puppy. We encourage our puppy buyers to contact us at any time after the sale of their puppy with any questions. We are a c 3 nonprofit relying on donations , supporters , fundraising, and event and retail proceeds for funding to provide top-quality care to all DVGRR dogs. Learn more about our Golden Gateway campus and watch our campus tour video. Watch our video to take a quick tour. Click to learn more. Our mission is simple: Delaware Valley Golden Retriever Rescue provides new beginnings for displaced Golden Retrievers, and other golden-hearted dogs, along with a full array of adoptive and educational support for the adopters and broader community. If you are interested in adopting, please attend one of our Monthly Open House: Meet the Dogs, Tour, and Shop events, held every second Saturday of the month from 10am until 12pm. Plus, we always need event sponsors. Learn more, click here! All dogs must remain on lead during the event; no flexis. We ask that each dog be handled by one human. Click here for all the details! Details are coming! Help us cover the costs of renovations! Click here for details! Kennel Caregivers — Dedicated, responsible, hard-working, compassionate individuals. Must be 17 years or older. Click here to learn more and apply.

They just had 7 beautiful puppies. Only 5 of them are available as of now. Full vaccines, healthy. We are not professional breeders. We just love dogs and most importantly want a nice home for our babies. Puppies are ready for pickup from my home address and of course you can also see the parents. Nala was the 2nd baby to be born and currently weights .She's very lovely and playful. Mila was the 3rd baby to be born and currently weights .She's very lovely active and playful. Clara Chia was the 4th baby to be born and currently weights .She's very, very active, lovely and playful. Cosmo was the 6th baby to be born and currently weights .He's very strong, playful and active. Rambo was the 7th baby to be born and currently weights .He's extremely strong and the biggest of all. Still playful and very lovely. Buy Now Golden Retriever Puppies! Beautiful and sweet golden retriever puppies! Three females and three males available. They were born on March 24th, .They have had their vaccines, potty training, socialization and deworming done. They are ready to go to their forever homes! Please call or text me at xxx-xxx-xxxx. My name is Devi. Price is negotiable. View Detail Golden Retriever 8 weeks fully vaccinated and de wormed message at xxxx for more details. Family dogs ready for new homes pure blood also. Buy Now Golden Retriever Puppies 5 weeks at this time. Will have vaccines and deworming. Message for details. Located in xxxx. They are 8 weeks old and got their first set of vaccines and deworming. Comes with all AKC paperwork. Fully vaccinated and dewormed. Very smart and playful. Both Males and females available. All puppies are potty trained. Please contact xxxx for more information Buy Now Golden Retrievers for sale. Golden Retrievers for sale, 6 weeks old. They have their first vaccines already. These pups will come with their first set of shots and be dewormed 4 times starting at 2 weeks. They will also have a vet examination before they can join their new families. We offer a one year health guarantee from congenital defects. In addition, these puppies will have socialization, a variety of desensitizations, and potty training. We are located in Yucaipa, California, and only pickup will occur. View Detail Akc golden retriever Akc golden retriever puppies xxxxxxxxxx Asking for puppy. Born on February 11, 3 weeks old. They are 11 weeks old and up to date on all shots and vaccines. Very friendly with people. They will be coming with all papers. Serious inquiries Only. Contact for more info and viewing. Very friendly! View Detail Golden retriever Very friendly with kids and other dogs. Loves to cuddle. Latest Dog Articles The first pregnancy of the she-dog If you decided your favorite pet to have an offspring, be responsible in such a case. To do this, follow simple rules that will help her to get healthy offspring without problems, and do not forget to visit the vet. Estrus and mating During estrus you need Dog's training: basic rules of success Dog and owner relationship is a set of complex and fitness of their characters. You have to get in contact with your new pet and it happens in different ways with each dog. You can immediately begin to squeeze one dog and to keep distance from the other o Proper care of a puppy If a person has a puppy of small breed it is easier to take care of it. For this, you will need a small comb and brush. If the four-month-old puppy has outgrown adult lapdogs and continues to grow rapidly, now during the walk, you will have to deal with i Most common digestion puppy's diseases We don't like to think of our new puppy falling sick with puppy disease. But youngsters get sick quicker and take longer to get well than adults. It's vital to recognize sick puppy behavior, signs and symptoms of puppy illness, and how to know when you ca How to Defend Yourself against a Mad Dog According to World Health Organization about citizens require emergency care treatment on a daily basis for dog bite injury. Also, about 4. Now, those are insanely alarming statistics. But they are tru Dog Care Tips Few things in life are more fun and rewarding than bringing a dog into your family. Your dog will offer your family years of love and loyalty — as long as you provide him with food, shelter, responsible care, and love in return. This posting is FYI only - He is 6 years young and 55 lbs. Applications only from adults experienced with big dog training. He did get along well with Maverick here, who was 20 pounds bigger than Nash. Please allow us up to a week to get back to you. Most appointments will be Friday-Sunday, 10 am - 2 pm, for an hour. Check out her website - she is fabulous! We know the value and comfort of a loving pet companion and are doing our best to help the dogs and folks who need them. We update our website daily and are always rescuing, vetting, rehabilitating, socializing. We also spend time socializing. Furthermore, unlike shelters, rescues do not get financial aid from the government and must rely on donations, grants, and adoption fees. You can think of it as donating to a worthy cause and getting a dog in return! Your tax-deductible donation keeps our rescue kennel operating! Please email us for an appointment and include your application found on our website, beaglesandbuddies. We usually schedule one appointment per hour. Allow hours for your appointment. For more specific questions, call please leave a voicemail if no answer or email at beaglesandbuddies gmail.

All dogs are unique and grow at their own rate. Pro Tip: Check out our complete guide to puppy care to ensure your Lab gets off to a great start. As a medium to large breed, Labrador Retrievers need at least one year to reach their full size. A general rule of thumb suggests your Lab should be at or close to its full size by their first birthday. However, bigger-boned Lab puppies can keep growing and filling out their chest up to 18 months old. How big should a 6-month-old Labrador Retriever be? The average Lab weight at six months old is about 40 to 55 pounds for males or 30 to 35 pounds for females. Please keep in mind that these numbers are averages, and every puppy will grow at a slightly different rate. How much bigger will my Labrador Retriever get? There are three ways to predict the size of a Labrador Retriever at maturity: Age. Labrador Retrievers typically reach their full height and weight around their first birthday. Larger Labs may need up to 18 months to fill out their chest, but any weight gain after 12 months should be minimal overall. If your Lab is less than a year old, they are likely still growing and putting on muscle to reach their adult size. Paw Size. If their paws look oversized next to their legs and body, then they are probably still growing, as this is a classic puppy feature. Lastly, if you purchased your Lab through a breeder, you can contact them for a more exact height and weight estimate. What is the size of a full-grown Labrador Retriever? A full-grown Labrador Retriever weighs between 65 and 80 pounds and stands about .The average weight of a full-grown female Labrador Retriever should be about 55 to 70 pounds, standing at .Make sure to consult with your veterinarian to ensure that your Lab is maintaining a healthy weight for its body size. The Labrador Retriever growth rate should be indicative of its athletic body and muscular build. Did you know. ? Their webbed paws made them strong swimmers, along with their otter tail, which acts like a powerful rudder when retrieving ducks. English nobles spotted the dogs and brought them home across the Atlantic, where breeders continued to refine the breed into its own variation. Between their friendly demeanor, adaptability, and outgoing disposition, they make ideal family members. As cherished members of our families, Labs deserve the best care. Unfortunately, like many other purebred dogs, Labrador Retrievers are more susceptible to various health issues. Some of the most common examples include:. One dog trying to avoid the other Tucked tail Ears flat These are all obvious signs that the dogs may not be compatible. This may extend as far as setting aside an entire room for just the new dog. Your Lab should have free run of the home, but with the ability to check up on the new dog when it wishes to. Double Up! Even if your dogs seem to be getting along fine, jealousy can flare up quickly if the new kid on the block makes itself at home on the only dog bed! The same goes for favorite toys. Keep these items in the separation area at first, so that your new dog can make them their own. Supervised Visits When the dogs are allowed to interact openly in your home, supervise them at all times during the early days. Praise both of them for good behavior and reward them with treats. Should either dog become aggressive, verbally admonish the aggressor or both, if they both act up and then separate them for a brief period before allowing them together again. Neither dog should be made to feel as if they are not the favorite. Training sessions can be enhanced by using one dog as a distraction for the other. Trust me when I say, there will be times when it will be useful to have one dog be capable of ignoring the other nail trimming sessions come to mind. But having said that, each dog will enjoy, and benefit from, individual one-on-one training time with you. These are the times that enhance the bond between you and your dog, and let them know they have a special place in your life. Food Fight! Maybe more so! Naturally, meal times are a time of heightened alertness, too, since each dog is anxious to make sure it gets its share. Trying to feed your dogs in the same space can lead to a showdown. Yes, dogs will fight over empty bowls! Eventually, the dogs will come to learn whose is whose when it comes to meal time, but it is always a good idea to keep them apart when they eat to avoid any possible agitation. And maintain separate time-out spaces, including individual crates, if you have the space. A multi-dog home can be a crazy, and patience-trying place at times. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. You should take your puppy outdoors and let him exercise his socialization potential at a young age. Visiting friends and family is one way to go about it. You can also spot a dog park and carry him there. Remember that your pet is still learning to follow directions and walk with you. You cannot expect him to cover long distances. The best way to avoid this is to take them far enough from the house and ensure they have a positive outside experience. It is worth noting that you should do this as often as you can, preferably daily. Start Potty Training It would be best to start potty training your Lab puppy the first day you bring him home. Start by showing your pup where you want him to potty, such as a sectioned-off area of your yard or garden. A good idea is to cordon off a small area and add some bark chippings. Next, you need a potty training schedule such as first thing in the morning, after mealtimes and play, and hourly for young pups. Many owners use dog crates to help with house training. I have a step-by-step guide on Labrador puppy crate training where you can learn tons more. Discourage Biting If you follow my blog, you know I am against punishment-oriented training. If you train your dog young enough to avoid harsh bites, you will not need punishment-driven discipline strategies. In any case, using physical force or yelling at your pup will only instill fear and distrust and can cause aggression in your dog. You can also check out my article, How to Discipline a Labrador , for greater insight into this topic. Instead, you can wait until your Labrador bites during a positive activity and then discontinue it. It will anchor the consequence better. Follow up using positive reinforcement by rewarding the correct behavior with a treat. Your Labrador will quickly learn that displaying good behavior reaps nice things. Puppies need to learn their bite inhibition soft-mouth by continuing the excellent work their mother and siblings taught them. Learn Bite Inhibition Training! Instill Patience You must use your best judgment when training your dog to be patient. Generally speaking, your Labrador will be mature enough to learn self-control by the tenth week. You can use a clicker or a whistle to teach your puppy to assume the natural heel position. Chances are, at first, your Labrador will try to change his pace to be behind you because of the force of habit. Walking in areas familiar to your dog will eliminate this problem. While you previously trained him to assume a heel position, you can also teach him these techniques. You may notice that your puppy can tell your words apart by the thirteenth week. So by the time he is four months old, you can use the position cues and positive reinforcement to get your dog to follow. These included whistling, clapping, or saying a specific word to indicate that your Labrador is doing a good job, typically followed by a well-deserved treat. Now is the time to see whether the anchors work! Where you previously whistled when your Lab ran towards you, now you must whistle, so he begins his run. This is the start of his Labrador recall training. Teaching good recall is an ongoing process. My dog was around 12 months old before seeing a noticeable improvement in her recall. Please avoid forcing the dog, as that only introduces confusion. Build Comfort With Crowds — Work on Socialization You have trained your Labrador to acknowledge close friends and family in the past few weeks. While this enables the puppy to be more social when you have visitors, a grown dog must learn to walk outdoors without acting out. This transition must be gradual, and try to keep experiences positive. Whether it is a cuddle, a pat, attention, or something tasty, you must teach your pup target training , for example, to touch a target with a specific part of his body. Remember that your Lab may end up biting or clawing to communicate if you do not teach him more acceptable communication methods. Here, I recommend teaching your Labrador to touch your hand with his nose. Ultimately, this is an excellent replacement for bites! Hand targeting is fun to teach, helps your pup build trust, and gets him using his brain! You have laid a strong foundation of discipline and positive reinforcement, making it easier to train your dog to follow more complex commands. In these weeks, you will introduce him to assuming different positions, obeying your commands as he moves away from you, and reacting to more nuanced anchors. Remember, 4-month-old Labrador puppies have a short attention span, so avoid long training sessions. Teach the Sit and Stay Teaching your Lab to sit and stay is a useful command for him to learn. Train Your Dog to Fetch If you have taken your Labrador to public parks and he has seen other dogs play fetch, it will be easier to teach him to retrieve whatever you throw. Your Labrador may not bring the toy back to you for a second round, but he will soon get the idea of retrieving it. You can gradually turn it into a game of fetch over the next few weeks and reward your doggo with high-value training treats. Continue Potty Training In the fourth month of Labrador training, you will continue potty training with a degree of independence. Continue with a good schedule and sync your walks with his natural cycle to align with the times he needs to go. You can use it to control your Labrador and later to test his ability to execute a command off-leash. A harness is also a good idea and is used for outdoor training and walks. Many owners will opt for a rear-attaching harness. Related: Harness vs. Collar for Lab Puppy: Which is Best? How to Train a 5-Month-Old Lab Puppy A five-month-old Labrador puppy is ready to be tested for his general obedience and the ability to deal with distractions, whether other dogs, people, or other animals such as squirrels or birds. Earlier, I mentioned that you could not expect an eight-week-old puppy to delay gratification. Your puppy can deal with distractions at five months old if you introduce them slowly. You must be prepared for your dog to run ahead of you now! However, suppose you have developed a solid relationship with your pup and worked on his training. In that case, he will stay within a reasonable distance, remaining by your side and showing loyalty. Once your Lab puppy has reached his 6-month milestone, it also marks the point where you introduce him to advanced obedience training. The good news is that all the training you have previously given will make it easier for your dog to follow your lead. Conclude Potty Training Your dog has had months to learn how to communicate his need to go potty. He has also likely refined the patience to hold it instead of relieving himself on the floor. Therefore, you can communicate your disappointment with your body language if your dog makes a mess. Avoid physical punishment and even verbal chastising as it impacts your dog negatively. All dogs can still have the odd accident up to 12 months old. Moreover, you must be prepared for your dog to relieve himself indoors if he is excited or frightened, known as either excitement or submissive urination. Increase Exercise Now that your Lab puppy is six months old, you can increase his exercise to thirty minutes twice daily. Energy levels, especially for larger breed dogs, escalate during this time. While the average exercise for a pup before this is generally five minutes of exercise per month of age, twice a day, a six-month-old Labrador can be out for one hour if you split his walks into thirty minutes a day. To train your 6-month-old Lab puppy, start with two commands with the most practical use. From six months onwards, until your Labrador is a well-trained adult, you can teach the following commands or tricks in any order. How to Train a 7-Month-Old Labrador As your Lab progresses to seven months old, a lot of the previous training needs to be kept consistent as you gradually teach him to comprehend more commands. Maybe there is a trespasser, and you want your dog to scare them away. You will need to continue training your dog to hold things or release them on command, but you can also proceed to add distance and even more background distractions. Ironically, you need to teach him to bark on command before learning to be silent on cue. Over this month, he will learn to associate the respective commands with barking and silence. This is quite tricky, but your Lab will eventually get there if you practice and stay consistent. The eighth month is ideal for training your Lab to go to different places upon hearing the command word. Either way, do not overload him with place commands, and stick to no more than two per month. Or you can use the ninth month to teach a cool party trick! After a week, you can remove the treat and teach your Lab to follow your finger. Of course, you will still need to reward him after he follows the command. By the third week, you can cue your doggo to spin and see if he does so without your finger guiding him in a circular motion. It might take an extra week or two, but I recommend this as an addition in the ninth month because it allows you to continue training your pet to learn previous commands better. You can teach him to go to different places, hold or release objects, and fetch toys. You can now progress this further and teach him to roll over on command. Your 1-year-old Labrador only learns to comprehend more at the same pace as he has since the 6-month mark. You should also audit previously taught commands and see any weak associations you can reinforce. How to Train an Month-Old Labrador You will not have to alter your training regimen dramatically if you have trained your Labrador properly from eight weeks onward. If anything, this is the period where you customize his training to your convenience. Now is when your dog must learn to be compatible with your life. From the month mark onwards, you must train your dog to be harmonious with modern adult life within reason. It is sad to see dog owners having to give away their pets because of behavior issues. Such things are avoidable if you train your dog correctly and sufficiently exercise him. It would be best if you simply established authority by having a positive yet commanding presence. Once your dog acknowledges your authority and sees you as a guide, you can merely treat him as a six-month-old, albeit on an accelerated schedule, and train him accordingly. Your job becomes even easier once you have a workable training schedule and stick to your routine. This month-by-month Labrador puppy training schedule will help you successfully train your doggo and turn him into the beloved companion you always desired. Good luck with your training! Related Posts You May Like:. Check Price on Amazon 6. Make Commands Only Once When it comes to training, what you give is what you get. This is known as command nagging. Teach your pup to heed a command at its first mention. If an order is not executed the first time, show your Lab what you want them to do and make the command again. Repeat that until they learn to obey the first time the command is made. Discipline at the Precise Moment of the Unwanted Behavior Timing is crucial when disciplining your 8-week-old Labrador pup. Dogs will typically forget an experience in 2 minutes. However, they can recall your training commands through associative memory. Once your pup has corrected his unwanted behavior with the desired behavior, reward him with a tasty treat and lots of praise. To learn more about how to discipline your dog, check out my top article, How to Discipline a Labrador: What Not to Do! It can also cause aggression in dogs , as found in this year-long study conducted by the University of Pennsylvania. Using physical punishment such as hitting, kicking, or grabbing the jowls and shaking, is simply animal abuse. Other unacceptable methods are physically forcing the dog down onto its side or back, growling at your dog, withdrawing food, using a shock collar, or tying it for hours. Wean Your Puppy off Training Treats Your Labrador needs to learn that skills and commands are not learned or obeyed for the sole motive of a treat. For this reason, it is important to wean your puppy off treats when he has repeatedly performed the behavior and completely mastered it in different locations and with various distractions. Nonetheless, your Labrador puppy is still a dog in training, and you still need to tell him that he has done the right thing. The rule of thumb is that they are trained young when it comes to dog training. You should train Labrador puppies as soon as you bring them home, typically around 8 weeks of age. The American Kennel Club AKC indicates that the first key milestone when training a Lab pup is 8 weeks, as soon as they have left their mother. It is a crucial time to lay the foundation for your Labrador puppy to integrate into the family. When you bring your Labrador Retriever puppy home at two months, it has most likely interacted with a few situations and is eager enough to learn and follow the rules of a new home. A recent study scientifically proved that 8-week-old puppies are quite capable of learning at this young age as they quickly learned to open a puzzle box baited with food and remembered the skill an hour later. Interestingly, these puppies learned the skill better from a human rather than their mother. Other studies have also proven that it is effective for future behavior to teach puppies socialization and other skills rather than adults. In this study, puppies who attended a command and socialization training class for one hour a day for six months responded better to strangers than adult dogs who attended the same classes. Are Lab Puppies Easy to Train? Lab puppies are easy to train. They are a working breed that enjoys physical and mental stimulation and have many positive traits. They are intelligent, devoted, friendly, highly social, and love to please. They are often used as guide dogs, therapy dogs, or search and rescue due to their easy trainability. Apart from the age factor, other breed-specific reasons make training a Labrador puppy easy. Here are three examples: Labradors are among the most intelligent dog breeds. In his book, The Intelligence of Dogs, canine psychologist Stanley Coren lists Labradors in the top tier of the smartest dogs. So, even at just two months, your puppy has it in his blood to learn and carry out commands. To perform their original working job of retrieving fish that came off the trawl, Labradors had to be watchful and enthusiastic. These are essential learning characteristics. As game and waterfowl retrievers for hunters, Labradors have to be obedient. Another core training requirement makes your Lab puppy easy to train. With these ten principles on exactly how to train an 8-week-old Labrador, you can now apply them to the key areas your young puppy needs to be trained in. Labrador Puppy Training: Key Areas There are five critical areas in which you must appropriately train your 8-week-old Lab puppy. In the next section, I will tell you what the training entails. How to Socialize a Labrador They say humans are social beings, but that is also true about dogs. Socialization begins with the breeder and continues with you. To socialize a Labrador, expose him to many different places and situations. Include sounds, smells, other adults, children, animals, cars, objects, etc. Dogs who are well socialized in the first 12 weeks will be set up for life. Socializing and training your puppy young plays a significant role in the development of adult dogs, as evidenced in this important study. Here are two key findings: Dogs that are well socialized as pups will behave more positively with humans and are less likely to display unwanted behavioral problems such as fear and aggression. Socialized dogs are more likely to engage in positive social behaviors with humans. They also learn better how to play games with humans, helping them establish a true bond with their owners. As a puppy, you can teach your Labrador social skills and confidence through intentional training moments in the family. Once he has completed his vaccinations, take him to public places such as parks or puppy socialization classes. Put him outside hourly and learn to anticipate when he needs to go. Reward and praise him when he does go outside. Usually, puppies will need to relieve themselves early in the morning and after meals. Use their natural rhythm for daily pee or poop walks. Dogs hate messing in the area they sleep in and usually hold it. Nonetheless, very young puppies might be unable to do so. Walk your Labrador after his morning meal and hang around for 15 minutes or so to allow him to do his thing. Repeat the same in the evening. Puppies will need to be allowed to relieve themselves every hour, and for vaccinated dogs, a short walk every hours is an ideal routine to prevent them from peeing around the house. If you crate your puppy because you need to go out, get someone to help you stick to the routine. Repeating this routine for the first few days will give your new furry friend a good idea of his expectations. Check out my guide to Labrador potty training here. To crate train an 8-week-old Labrador puppy, start as soon as you bring him home. Slowly introduce him to the crate by throwing a treat inside and let him explore the crate voluntarily. When you first leave him with the door closed, make sure he is tired as he will sleep and not be afraid. Check out my Best Dog Crates for Labradors and Playpens recommendations, including soft crates, travel crates, and furniture styles. Here are six key things you should practice when crate-training your Labrador: Keep your puppy in the crate at night. Initiate crate training from the very first day you bring your puppy home. It will be harder to succeed in crate training if your puppy gets used to other sleeping arrangements. My puppy cried during the first night, but she was just fine after that. Lab puppies can be left alone in a crate for 1 hour for each month of age for up to 4 hours. Keep your dog in the crate when you are out of the house. This is also for his safety, such as when you are cooking. Do not let your Lab out of the cage when barking or giving you those puppy eyes. Instead, reward good behavior in the crate, i. He will quickly learn that being quiet leads to nice things. He will quickly learn that this special place is just for him. Various toys and bedding will offer some comfort for your Labrador. When purchasing a crate for your puppy, the best ones will give your Lab enough room to stand, sit, turn, and lie down comfortably on his side with paws outstretched. Instead, buy a crate with an adjustable divider that allows him to grow into and choose a standard metal model with either a single or double door. Travel kennels like this Petmate Ultra Vari Kennel , also from Amazon, are also hardy when you are on the move with your dog. This one is even airline adaptable and meets most airline cargo specifications. Older dogs may refrain from biting because they have been trained not to hurt as they have learned their bite inhibition. This simply means that the dog has learned to control the strength of his bite. This sends the message that the bite hurts. Persist by leaving your hand in his mouth until he lets go, then use lots of praise. All puppies need to master this technique that they initially learned from their mother and littermates. Learn Bite Inhibition Training! Training your Lab puppy to soft bite must be done in puppyhood as an adolescent dog will not know how to adjust the force of his jaws when he has adult teeth and adult jaw muscles. This can be devastating for you both, should your Labrador go on to bite someone! Have realistic expectations — as it can take your puppy weeks to learn his soft bite. How to Train a Labrador Puppy to Walk on a Leash Walking on a leash is not a natural skill in dogs — they need to learn it! Teach a leash cue, then introduce the pup to very short walks. If the dog pulls, stand fast and wait for him to return to you before continuing. Do this by letting him wear them for short periods inside the house and yard. I find the best no-pull harness to be those that are not rear-attached, such as the Walk Your Dog With Love harness. They give you more control and are ideal for medium-large breeds. Give a treat when the command is obeyed. Introduce your Lab to short walks outside on a leash. When it appears he is about to lunge toward another dog or object, quickly distract him with a treat. Timing is crucial. Reward him every time commands are obeyed and gradually reduce the rewards as the art of leash walking is perfected. You can start steps 1 and 2 when the puppy is young, but you can only commence step 3 once the dog has been vaccinated. Final Thoughts Eight weeks old is the perfect time to train a Labrador puppy in key areas such as socialization, crate training, potty training, not biting, and leash training. To successfully train your Lab puppy in these areas, you must follow good training principles such as using reward-based training, being consistent in your commands, and disciplining at the precise moment of poor behavior. Begin with basic commands before introducing more complex or trick commands. Related Posts You May Like:. But those first weeks of puppy development are very similar whatever the breed, and these landmarks are good general rules for any dog. Puppy development week by week, changes quickly. Newborn Puppies Newborn puppies are born at the end of nine weeks of pregnancy, with their eyes and ears tightly closed. They already have a fur coat but they cannot yet control their own body temperature. They are dependent on their mother or another heat source to keep them warm. Newborn puppies may cry if cold. But they do not have the strength to cry for long. Newborn Labrador puppies snuggle together to keep warm when their mother is away How Helpless are Newborn Pups? Although they rely on mom for a lot at this stage, newborn puppies are not completely helpless. They can use their front feet to drag themselves towards a heat source or their milk supply. This means their mom, not milk alternatives like cow or goat milk. Newborn pups have no teeth yet. But they can move their heads about to search for a nipple, and they can latch on and suck strongly. Their mother leaves them only to eat, drink and for bathroom purposes. While she is away, the puppies will crawl together to preserve their body heat, as you can see in the photo above. They may also crawl under a heat lamp source to keep warm. In every other respect newborn puppies are completely dependent on the care of their mother. Newborn pups have little control over the rear end of their bodies. The mother dog washes them and licks their bottoms to encourage elimination, licking up and swallowing anything they produce to keep her babies and their nest scrupulously clean. In fact, he may even double his birth weight! One week later and the puppies have doubled their birth weight. Changes are taking place under his eyelids to prepare them for opening. And usually begins during the second week of life. Ears open at this point too, so your puppy will begin to hear. The Labrador puppies in this picture are two weeks olds. Two weeks old and the puppies eyes are now open! You can see that their eyes are now open and the puppies are beginning to look a little more dog-like. The breeder will be handling the puppies more now. And most puppies are wormed for the first time at two weeks old. Most 3 week old puppies can stand and sit, and are beginning to totter about. They are also starting to develop their individuality. No longer are they just a row of identical little fat furry sausages! This little three week old puppy :- Can easily be distinguished from his brother: Teething and Further Development At 3 weeks old, this is also the point at which puppies start teething — cutting their first deciduous baby teeth. Obviously the teeth are appearing for a reason! Some breeders will start to offer the first tastes of solid food at this point. Especially if the litter is a large one and putting a strain on the mother dog. It is lovely to watch a litter of 3 week old puppies beginning to interact with their brothers and sisters. They are running, playing enthusiastically, and have started to wag their little tails. The puppies will start to show bowel control as they move away from the other puppies to defecate. And solid food is becoming a major part of their diet. These little pups are tucking into some puppy food. Four week old puppies having their dinner in the fresh air If the weather is warm enough, puppies will be spending some time outdoors now. Mealtimes are a messy process, so feeding puppies out in the yard can be a good idea. Breeder Involvement Some mother dogs will lose interest in cleaning up after their pups at this point or soon afterwards. And many puppies will be wormed again this week. Vocalizations are becoming stronger at this puppy development stage. The litter will greet their mother noisily when she returns to them, and try hard to follow her out of the whelping box whenever she leaves. The puppies themselves are now eating solid food several times a day and gradually being weaned of their dependency on her milk. Puppies will still suckle ravenously when their mother returns and she will now often feed them standing up and only for a short time. She will also be teaching the puppies not to bite too hard. So, they should be increasingly spending time with humans and learning to be familiar with the sounds and sights of a human family environment. Puppies being raised in kennels must be brought into a home environment regularly from now on to ensure they develop into confident, friendly dogs. Six weeks old and full of mischief Puppies Still Have a Lot to Learn at 6 Weeks In some countries, puppies are taken to their new homes at this age. But this is not a good idea, and can result in a puppy that has poor bite inhibition and is challenging to manage. The puppies are learning not to bite too hard from the reactions of their mother and siblings. Growth is not quite so fast now. But the puppies will still grow strongly for the next few months. Many puppies will be wormed again this week. All that remains is for plenty of great socialization experiences to be packed into this week, with final checks on health. Many breeders will arrange for each seven week old puppy to have a vet check this week. And though some vets advise against it, some puppies are also given their first vaccinations before they leave for their new homes. Some breeders will now have the puppies trained to pee and poop on puppy pads or newspaper. And some will have been whistling to the puppies at meal times to get them used to coming to a human signal. Potty training is now underway and puppy socialization plans are being made. At this point, many of you will be thinking about training your puppy too. The next four weeks are vital in puppy development stages. Your main job is socializing your puppy. This means taking him to lots of new places and exposing him to lots of new experiences. So, life will be starting to get back to normal. Most puppies in the U. In the U. So, not all puppies will get their vaccinations at the exact same age. Socializing your puppy is still the most important job for you at this age. But, you cannot put your puppy on the ground outside until they have received their final vaccination. So, make sure you know exactly when their final jab is. And carry on introducing them to as many new people, things, and experiences as possible throughout this puppy development stage. Some people can suffer from the puppy blues at this stage too, as your life has completely changed! But, that does not mean socialization can stop. Puppies who are isolated at this point will soon lose that friendly fearlessness. You have an important job now, building on what has been achieved so far, and introducing your puppy to the world at ground level. This part of his education can begin once his vaccination cover is complete. He should be fully immunised at around this point. But check with your vet for confirmation of the actual date. Three months also marks the point at which many puppies will drop down from four daily meals, to three. This can cause problems for some puppies because the portions are larger If your puppy gets an upset tummy when you make this change, just go back up to four meals again for a few days, and give smaller portions for a few days when you try again. But, many will need another month before they can cope without frequent bathroom breaks and the occasional accident. Your puppy will begin to lose his baby teeth. This can also be a time at which biting can be most challenging. And try not to worry, this stage will soon be over! A few will need another month or two to complete the process. Remember, no two puppies are the same. That puppy fluffiness will have gone. For many puppies, five months is an awkward, gangly time. A five month old puppy may have shed the last of his soft puppy lines and be looking quite skinny. By the end of this month most puppies will have finished teething but an urge to chew may continue for another few months in some breeds, Labradors included. Some female dogs will have their first season during this month. But, for many, it will be another three or four months before this happens. This is a major milestone for your puppy. He is now looking very much like an adult Labrador. Still a Puppy Because he looks quite grown up, people expect a lot of their 6 month old puppy. But inside, he is still very much a puppy. The beginnings of adolescence and with it an increasing independence of spirit can bring its challenges, but also a whole lot of fun. Save to Pinterest The Stages of Puppy Growth and Development Month by Month The following are the stages of puppy growth and development, starting at birth and ending when your dog reaches adulthood. The Neonatal Stage 0 to 2 weeks This is the newborn puppy growth stage that lasts until two weeks of age. At this developmental stage, puppies are blind and deaf. Expect puppies at this point to sleep almost constantly and their mother will take care of everything, keeping them warm, feeding them, and keeping them clean. The Transitional Stage 2 to 4 weeks At this puppy growth stage , they will start to open up their eyes and respond to sounds, light, and movement around them. You will also notice a puppy at this point starting to get more mobile, although they will still tend to crawl instead of walking. They do, however, have enough strength to stand up, but will stumble a lot. A puppy in this developmental stage will just be starting to recognize their siblings and mother. Lab puppies open their eyes at about two weeks old. By this time, Labrador puppies will have their eyes fully open and most will be at least partly open. Ears open at this point too and your puppy will begin to hear. Period of Awakening of Senses 3 to 4 weeks At this period , a puppy develops various senses rapidly. They start to get fully alert and aware of their environment and may recognize you and other humans that are frequently around. The Socialization Period 4 to 7 Weeks Once a puppy is around four weeks old, they start to learn the most important things in life-related to social development. They will learn to not bite all the time and how to interact with their siblings. Interactions with humans are especially important between five and seven weeks. This is also the time they will start to understand discipline thanks to their mother. She will start weaning her puppies and teaching them manners, like acknowledging she is in charge. As the owner, you can start introducing food to your puppy when they are around four weeks old. Start small and begin to give them more food as the mother continues to wean them. You should also continue handling the puppy every day. However, be sure not to separate them from their siblings or mother for over ten minutes each day, since this can lead to issues with training and socialization. Dogs who are separated too soon may also be nervous and more likely to bark and bite. During this period, let the mother dog take care of discipline; you should not correct the dog for mouthing or housebreaking mistakes until later in life. To help ease them through this process, avoid traumatic events, loud voices, or harsh discipline. You should also make sure your pooch has plenty of human contact during this stage. If you want, you can start leash training and even teach simple commands such as sit, down, stay and come. In terms of development, you will notice that your puppy can sleep through the whole night and starts to develop better control of its bowels and bladder. Most vets suggest that new outings should wait until they are fully vaccinated. We rub the Calmeroos Puppy Toy on littermates and mom to get their scent. When we get home the Calmeroos Puppy Toy helps our puppy feel comfortable and adjust more quickly to his new environment. Many puppies will go to their new homes at around 8 weeks old. We recently put together a blog post on our sister site detailing what you can expect from an 8-week-old puppy. The Juvenile Stage 3 to 4 Months At this point in development, a puppy can be compared to a juvenile. They will be more independent and may ignore the basic commands that they know very well. If this happens, firmly and gently reinforce the commands and other training. You may also notice your pup starting to test your authority by play biting or similar actions. You can also redirect your dog to a toy that they can bite. Either can end up teaching your pooch that it is okay to fight with you and challenge your authority. The Ranking Period 3 to 6 Months When your puppy is between four and six months old, you should expect them to be somewhat bratty, showing more willfulness and independence. They are more likely to test your limits and may try to show dominance over children or other family members. If they fail to listen to you or come when called, it can be dangerous as it puts them at risk of injury when in public. It can also hurt future responses to you, making them less likely to listen. This is also when your dog will be teething, so give them toys like frozen dog Kong toys to relieve pressure and pain. Chewing behaviors will also start growing at this point so look for some safe chew toys to keep your dog entertained. This is when hormonal changes start to occur and is the ideal time to spay or neuter your pup. UC Davis published a study comparing the long-term health effects of neutering in Golden Retrievers and Labrador Retrievers. Adolescence 6 to 18 Months After six months, your pup is already in the final stage of puppy development but is still young. This is a fun and exciting time for your pooch since they will be learning, full of energy, and exuberant. During this time, it is important to remember that even if your puppy now looks like a grown-up dog, they are still a puppy, at least in its mental capacity and emotional maturity. Work to slowly increase training and other activities. You can even work on advanced training such as agility or herding. Another option is to simply keep training them to ensure they interact in a non-aggressive and non-threatening way with other animals. It is also possible that your dog will go through another fearful period of time at some point after they reach six months. You can speed up the process with counter-conditioning and desensitization. It fits very well and is quite apt! Final Thoughts With the knowledge of how and when your new puppy will develop, you are better able to meet their needs. Provide socialization at the appropriate times and be sure to give your puppy plenty of social interactions with their siblings as well as humans and any other pets in your home. Your dog should reach maturity at some point between one and two years old with plenty of variation based on breed, Labradors are considered mature at between 2 and 2. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist. Colby Colby Morita has been raising and training guide and service dog puppies for over 13 years. Colby has been writing to the PuppyInTraining.

If you click and purchase, we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. There are countless breeders to choose from and it can take hours, if not days to go through each and every one of them. For this reason, we decided to take the matters into our own hands to find the best of the best Bernedoodle breeders in North Carolina. Here they are! After all, adopting your puppy from a puppy mill is definitely out of the question. Health guarantees usually cover the first one or two years from adoption. You can also ask from your friends or family members about their personal experiences with various breeders in your state. This exceptional breeder takes great pride in providing their puppies a safe, clean, and enriching family environment to prepare them for their lives with their forever families. All puppies come from thoroughly tested parents and each of them is spoiled and pampered from day one up until adoption. What Makes This Breeder Unique? Abby Oelrich, the breeder behind Paws 4 Doodles, is a certified Puppy Culture breeder and also a professional groomer. They utilize various forms of enrichment methods, such as Early Neurological Stimulation ENS , early socialization, potty training, crate training, household desensitization, and even basic manners. Our Bernedoodles are from excellent bloodlines and all Pedigree information traces back to their AKC lineage. Our Dams and Sires have obtained extensive health clearances prior to being bred. These dogs will have a higher success rate for non-shedding, and are recommended for families with allergies. F1 Bernedoodles all have loose wavy coats that are typically minimal to light shedding, while F1B Bernedoodles coats can be loose wavy just like the F1 or curly and there are both coat types within the F1B litter. The F1B Bernedoodle is typically minimal to non-shedding. The coat of a Bernedoodle can vary from straight, loose wavy or curly. An F1 Bernedoodle will have a loose wavy coat, while an F1B Bernedoodle litter has both curly and loose wavy coats within the litter. The coat colors of Bernedoodles can vary based on the color genetics of the parents. We will also have Parti Bernedoodles. Daily walks are a must if you don't have a safely enclosed area for them to run freely. The Bernedoodle can be independent and does great being with family engaging in play, then happily laying on their own with a toy. It is still unknown how long Bernedoodles will live as it is a newer cross. The expected lifespan is hoped to be years. As with any dog, socialization and training should start while the dog is still a puppy and continue throughout its life. Look for a puppy kindergarten class locally or join the AKC S. Puppy Program , training based on positive techniques. You do not have to be an AKC purebred puppy to participate in their S. Puppy Program. Find a class here. This is a great place to start socializing and training. A well-socialized, well-trained Bernedoodle makes a wonderful family companion. Early socialization and training establishes those lifetime bonds between the family and puppy as these programs teach you how to communicate with your new puppy and get started on the right foot. Share 0 Shares The Bernedoodle is an exceptional dog breed for an active family living in a very active state like North Carolina. And if you are reading this article, you probably know this and are considering adding one of these furry angels to your family. The breed is loved for a couple of reasons. One is that it comes with the high intelligence and hypoallergenic coat of the Poodle while still maintaining the overall calm demeanor and playful nature of the Bernese Mountain Dog. North Carolina is very fond of the Bernedoodle breed, as there are lots of breeders residing within the state. However, you should be careful when dealing with these breeders as not all are reputable breeders that truly care for the dog breed. This is why it is essential you carry out personal research on any breeder you intend to work with or patronize. We have provided a list to make your search for a good Bernedoodle breeder very easy. This is a list of some of the best and most responsive Bernedoodle breeders you can find in the state of North Carolina. These are great breeders that care for the breed and are focused on the overall health, temperament, and socialization of the breed. They have been breeding incredible Bernedoodle puppies with hypoallergenic coats for over 10 years. Autumn Kissinger, a Vet tech with over 12 years of field experience is the owner and manager of the breeding facility. She aims to produce puppies that are stunning, well-tempered, and above all, healthy family companions that you certainly would love to have around. They raise standard and miniature-sized Bernedoodles. They operate a kennel facility in Kings Mountain, North Carolina. This is a very large facility with over acres of space fitted with 2 creeks that presents a lot of opportunities for the puppies to explore. The puppies are raised with a mix of both the Badass Breeder curriculum and Puppy Culture. Although it is a kennel facility, the puppies get to roll and play around with the members of the family, as well as other animals on the farm. Their breeding line is fitted with mainly championed sires and dams that further help in improving the breed. Being a Vet tech, Autumn Kissinger does have a great understanding of the importance of genetically testing the chosen adult dogs. They are given a full panel DNA health testing and even tested for orthopedic defects that could affect the quality of life that each new Bernedoodle puppy would experience. Your puppy should go home with a 2 years health guarantee. They should be given their full dewormings and vaccinations and should go home with a puppy starter kit. They should also be microchipped and come with a puppy collar. This location lends itself to inspire a very desirable temperament in dogs; so that we have both "nature and nurture" going for us. The Bernedoodle is a mix between a Bernese Mountain dog with a Poodle. Click here to learn more about terminology concerning levels of cross breeding. Our Bernedoodle puppies are intelligent, friendly, playful, and goofy. Best of all they are loyal and loving. All our puppies are raised in our home and are highly socialized; we raise our puppies on the principles of puppy culture and Badass Breeder programs. We start crate training and potty training before any puppy goes to their forever home. We mainly focus on breeding F1b standard size bernedoodles. All WT Bernedoodles come from genetically cleared parents, and with a two-year health guarantee for inherited diseases. Go to our "parents" page to see the genetic reports of our parent dogs Again, our dogs are raised in our home, not in kennels. To ensure the best life for every dog in our program we keep a limited number of dogs in our house because we want to be sure each puppy receives the attention they need. We do utilize guardian homes also as are program is growing. We also will be rehoming our retired females when it's time. Please visit our FAQ's page for more details about guardian home opportunities and Retired dogs. Many times folks that are looking for goldendoodles, labradoodles, sheepadoodles, or aussiedoodles will often decide to adopt from us, mainly because they haven't yet heard of Bernedoodles! About us We are Matt and Sara Rigdon. Matt has been a landscaper, heavy equipment operator and builder. Sara is a Registered Nurse of 25 years but is now working full time with the bernedoodles and cabin rentals. We built and own a log cabin rental business in the mountains of NC where it is a great place to visit year-round. If you need a place to stay when you come to pick up your puppy just let us know and we will try to make sure a cabin is available for you. You are also invited to come visit the puppies at 7 weeks of age. Our website to reserve a cabin is www. Besides our cabin rentals we are also are parents to 2 biological children and foster parents. Our Current foster children are big helpers with the care or our dogs and puppies. We love people and animals. Our dogs were purchased not only to have hiking buddies and loving companions but to share their puppies with others because they are such great dogs. Our dogs and puppies also serve as therapy to the foster children that come into our home. Foster children are traumatized due to unfortunate circumstances and when they leave the only family they know they find great comfort in the love that our dogs and puppies give them. We cannot say enough good things about our Poodles and Bernedoodles. Sara Phone Text, email or call between 9am and 9pm daily except text messages or email only on Sundays. View Our Available Bernedoodle Puppies! Standard Bernedoodles are bigger than Mini Bernedoodles reaching weights of pounds. They average inches in height at the shoulders when fully grown. Our Standard Bernedoodle puppies are all 1st generation-F1 variety puppies. They have purebred Bernese Mountain dogs for moms and the dads are Standard poodles. Their Standard Bernedoodles life expectancy is years old. Blue Diamond Bernedoodles have a loving, easy-going, and calm temperament. Bernedoodles are very loyal and social and love to spend time with their parents. Standard Bernedoodles need regular grooming because of their curly and thick coats. Shedding is very minimal after their first haircut and grooming. This breed is known to be a hypoallergenic choice. Here at Blue Diamond Family Kennels, we specialize in breeding Standard Bernedoodles along with a few other great breeds. We have teamed up with a few other reputable Bernedoodle breeders that breed and raise Bernedoodle pups that meet our very strict criteria and genetic testing. On our Standard Bernedoodle puppies page you will see all of our available puppies for sale.

Ian discusses how we should learn to see the world from our dogs perspective and in doing so, how we can better earn their love and trust. Armed with this love and trust, we will form a better relationship and as a result, effective training becomes just that much more effective and enjoyable for both you and your dog. But please, first make sure to use the search facility in the footer of this website and browse our other sections as the subject may have already been covered: Labrador health and care , Labrador behavior , Labrador puppies , infobites and Labrador breed information. External Resources On Labrador Training Although referring to all breeds in general and not purely Labradors, for those of you that love to watch and not read, the series of dog training videos on www. If you like reading books then check out one of our favorite Lab books: The Complete Labrador Handbook. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. If this is the case,…. How does it feel to be a new puppy parent? You must be chuffed. Take a look at these first few articles. All the ingredients you need for a happy home. But for now, beside your bed is the best place for your puppy to sleep — it will help them feel safe. Puppies like their crates rather cave-like; we suggest covering it with a blanket to block out light, but keep the front open so that they can see outwards. Make sure to make it snug inside with something like a vet bed or a blanket, or why not take it up a notch with a heat pad or hot water bottle to recreate the feeling of their mother. Nothing feels more comforting than that. Before you head to bed, take your puppy out for one last round of loo-going. Set your bedtime at a later time too — midnight sounds about right. Come back calmly, and place your puppy in the crate and turn out the light. Stuff you should know about Sleep Training your Labrador Your puppy will wake up several times in the night and will need the bathroom at least once! Be prepared for not-so-deep sleeps and tired mornings — just for the first few weeks. Having them sleep next to you is only temporary. Consistency is key! As for you, full nights of sleep will start getting closer and closer. Alone Training How can I teach my Labrador puppy to be ok on their own? Start by feeding your puppy in their crate during meal times. If they seem worried by you leaving, stay in view, and just pop right outside their confinement area. Keep it short and sweet: No need to stay away for long, 60 seconds tops will do for now. Repeat: Do this at least once a day to make progress go steady and smoothly. Socialization Exercises To Do this week Letting your Labrador puppy explore the yard Besides the gnomes and questionable yard furniture you may have, letting your puppy explore your own yard is a great and safe way to start showing them the sounds, lights and wonders of the outside world. Exploring different surfaces exercise Make sure that the surfaces you use are safe — nothing too crazy just yet. Gather surfaces such as An oven tray with a small layer of water A piece of astro turf A carpet tile A large piece of tin foil, cardboard or something crinkly PRO TIP: Set up for this exercise in the room your puppy spends most of their time in — it will help them to feel safe and confident. Pop the surfaces out safely on the floor and allow your puppy to investigate them. Nobody has ever enjoyed walking on those. Remember to be patient! Lucky for you — teaching them their name is easy peasy. Say their name in a happy jolly tone and reward with a treat. Repeat five times, 5 and take a break. Practice this 2 or 3 times a day so they get the hang of it. Teach your puppy to sit Teaching your puppy how to sit is a popular one. The first two are far more common though. Keep using this word when they do the right thing, and then follow it up with a food reward. In puppy logic, stinky means yummy. How to do it Start at home; where there are no distractions. Just make sure to shut off Gogglebox in the background. Recall — How to teach our Labrador puppy to come back when called Your puppy already knows their name at this point, so this should be a walk in the park. How to do it Treats and a cheerful voice will be what works here. Do these exercises before meal times so your puppy is more motivated. Practice this 5 times a day and in 3 different places in your house and yard to get them used to coming to you in all settings. How to do it Show your puppy that you have their favorite toy, and start to get them excited about it. When they show interest, throw it a little bit away from you. They will likely follow it and pick it up. If they do, encourage them back to you with your voice, so remember to sound happy! Swap the toy for a treat or another toy and do the process again. Repeat this about 5 times. Instead create more distance and excitement sounds to get them to come to you — spaniels like to show off, so they will likely want to parade what they have! Always swap the toy for something when they have it, this could be a treat or another toy. Resource guarding occurs when we force puppies to give up items or snatch things out of their mouths. For breeds like Labradors who are designed to want to hold things in their mouths, this is pretty important! Resource guarding is when a dog protects a resource from being taken by someone else — dog or human. For some reason, there is a solid list of things puppies find irresistible: Socks. Gundog expert Jayne Coley summarises the early training routine that she followed with her own young labrador, Trade. Register for our newsletter To continue reading this content please register for our newsletter. You have to adapt your training to suit the type of puppy you have. The steps below summarise the training routine that I have followed with my young dog, Trade, who has an easy-going temperament. I began to train him properly in the New Year when he was 9 — 10 months old, though I usually wait until the shooting season is over when I have time to do a little each day on a regular basis. Step 1: Foundations By the age of 9 — 10 months, Trade had been toilet trained, knew his name and came back when I called him. He had been well socialised and behaved in company on a lead, was used to going out in my vehicle and had learned to swim. Trade has never been chastised for carrying something he should not, e. I then place the item out of reach. Crucially, by this age we had built up a good bond before formal training began. Step 2: Heelwork It was so wet and muddy at home so I started training on the patio and in our yard where the pup is restricted to a certain area and there are no distractions. We began with heelwork on the lead. To keep the exercise interesting, I walked in straight lines, did figures of eight, included the occasional tight turn and altered my pace. This all helped to keep Trade focused on what we were doing. If he didn't sit immediately, I repeated the command whilst pushing his bottom down with my left hand. Once confident with this routine, I put a lightweight collar on him and progressed to walking to heel off the lead, using my hands to encourage him to keep his head up and concentrate on me, when necessary. If he did move, I calmly walked up to him and, holding his collar, took him back to the exact spot he moved from in a quiet but positive manner. I slowly built up the distance until I could walk around him in a huge circle. Once he did this perfectly, I introduced the recall. Instead of always walking back to him, I would call him back to me, encouraging him to come straight to my hands which were cupped gently in front of my hips. Once I was happy with this, I began to mix up heelwork with sit and stay, and recall. When he didn't move, I quietly picked the dummy up myself. Gradually — over several days — I built on this until I could throw a couple of dummies, one at a time, over and around him and he remained steady. It is always important to lift the pup's top lip out of the way when you put a dummy in his mouth. Trade was reluctant to do this at first, but with patience and perseverance over several days, he accepted it. Slowly, I built on this until I could walk away backwards the length of the lead and call him to me, concentrating on perfecting a good delivery, using my hands to encourage him to bring the dummy right to me with his head held nice and high. Step 6: Retrieving Next, we worked on being sent for a retrieve. I then bent down and pointed my right hand towards the dummy whilst looking at the top of his head to make sure he was looking past my hand at it, before saying his name positively and at the same time letting go of one end of the lead so that he instinctively ran forward and picked the dummy. Initially, I sat back on my heels, which encouraged him to run straight back to me. Slowly we built on this until the lead was no longer needed. Sometimes I would send him for the dummy, sometimes I'd pick it up myself, or I'd walk him to heel in the opposite direction before sending him. On other occasions, I would stand well back from Trade and throw a dummy over his head, call him to me and then send him for the dummy from my position. I like to vary things as this keeps him interested and wondering what I am going to do next. He was at first a little unsure, so I repeated it in a lighter tone, to which he responded. In return, I praised him quietly. Always remember, training a dog is like building a house — it is imperative that the foundations are put down properly, otherwise, sooner or later, cracks will appear. Keep it light and encouraging when you praise, and low and gruff when you scold, so your puppy knows the difference. Especially if you have a boisterous puppy. Keep everything calm and relaxed, and do things in your time. Print Early obedience first step to better hunting dog Labrador puppies start out sweet and innocent. All you want to do is cuddle up with your pup and love them! And you should! But rest assured the innocence will not last. As your pup gains confidence and courage, they will begin to test you in many ways. That is why you must obedience train your Labrador puppy. Early obedience training is key to establishing borders and boundaries that will help your puppy grow, learn, and adjust with a good attitude. There is no shortcut to doing this, just use the name often when you talk to your puppy. Over time, the pup will start to respond to the name. Socialization, while not technically obedience training, is the single most important thing you can teach your puppy during the first few months of life. If you are not sure how to do this, refer to this post. Tools needed to obedience train Labrador puppy You will need a few tools to teach your puppy obedience. The products I recommend I believe are a good value or good investment for anyone working to train or maintain training on their retriever. When possible, I include links to the product. Some of these links may be Amazon or other affiliate links in which I am paid a small commission at no cost to you. All opinions and recommendations are my own. Collar — You should purchase a size appropriate collar for your new puppy. You may have to buy new ones as your dog grows, but it is important for your puppy to get used to wearing a collar early on. A simple nylon adjustable collar works great. Chain collar — If your puppy is more than a few months old, a chain or prong collar is extremely helpful in teaching obedience, but they must be used correctly. For more information on how to put a chain collar on your dog correctly refer to this video. A longer lead, called a check cord, is also useful for teaching HERE and retrieving. You can learn more about that here. Heeling stick optional — While optional, a heeling stick can be especially helpful in teaching basic obedience. Treats — Treats are good for teaching very young puppies. I use treats for pups under 12 weeks of age, but treats should be discontinued rather quickly. When to start basic puppy obedience training Obedience training can and should start within the first couple weeks of having your puppy home. Young puppies are ready and willing to learn and teaching obedience to a young puppy is much easier than teaching it to an older dog. How long should obedience sessions be? Most labs do not enjoy obedience training. For this reason, we aim to keep obedience sessions short, especially if your dog is under 4-months of age. Five to ten minutes of obedience a day can work wonders. Especially if you are consistent. Using rewards or praise to teach obedience Many people like to use treats or rewards for obedience training. And this can work, especially with very young dogs. But for hunting dogs, over the long-term treats can become a problem. We do not want our dogs, or the dogs we train to be obedient only because they are getting a food reward. We want them to be obedient because they understand their place in the family and respect the owners. To get these lasting results, we use praise words and petting and a reward that retrievers live for — retrieves! Well-timed praise is a particularly important part of dog training. A message that it is okay to ignore me the first 9 times! This simply means that after a few minutes of formal obedience training, we release the dog with an OKAY command and that means they can run around and be a dog. We then throw a bumper or plug a for the dog to retriever. We do this a few times with a lot of excitement and allow the dog to retrieve the bumper. For retriever breeds, this is often more effective than a food reward. Be careful that you are not letting your puppy get into bad habits with retrieving. For instance, if your puppy often goes out to retrieve the bumper but then runs away with it, or picks it up and drops it, do not continue doing retrieves. While retrieving is a reward for many Labs, it is not an excuse to engage in behaviors that are not going to be acceptable in the field. If you want to learn more about how to properly teach your Lab to retrieve, check out How can I teach my retriever puppy to fetch? Introduction to leash and nylon collar The very first step for any puppy obedience is to introduce your puppy to a regular collar and leash. This should be done in two separate steps, first the collar and then the leash. Introduce the collar by putting a nylon type collar on your puppy. This is normal and you should not react to it. Introducing the leash is a little different. We like to do this outside. After a few sessions of this introduction, you can start holding the leash by the end and walking with the puppy. When the puppy tries to run or walk away, hold tight to the leash, and just let the puppy get used to the resistance. Some puppies have a hard time with this and will growl or whine and whip themselves around at the pressure, but most will not. Remain calm and after a few sessions the puppy should get used to the resistance of the leash. Do not allow the puppy to pull you around. That will make for some bad behaviors that you will need to correct later. If you cannot control your puppy with just a regular collar and leash, you may need to move to a chain or prong collar to keep control. What commands to teach Lab puppy There are only four basic obedience commands that you need to teach your young puppy. Remember when it comes to commands, less is more. OKAY — this is a release command, basically tells your dog were done training, go be a dog. As your puppy grows and learns more, there are some other commands that may be needed, but for puppies I like to start with just the four above. Dog training requires consistency Before you start with obedience training, I want to make a note about the importance of consistency. Obedience training only works if you are consistent. This means that when you say a command, you expect the puppy to perform the command, and are willing to take steps to make the puppy perform the command. If you do not remain consistent in this expectation, you will confuse your dog and get poor results from your training. You and your family must be consistent! How to start obedience training Lab puppy The first command you want to start teaching your puppy is SIT. This is quite easy to teach with a small puppy but gets a little tougher as they get bigger. Then release the puppy with the OKAY command. Repeat this process several times, then stop. If your puppy is weeks old, you can repeat this training several times a day for only a couple minutes at a time. This will be a two-person job for a little while. The other person will put the food down a few feet from the puppy. Then release the puppy to eat saying OKAY. As the pup learns and understands the command better, you will no longer need a second person to hold the puppy. You must be a little careful here because young puppies do not have great bladder control and making them wait, even a few seconds, can mean the difference between an accident and them doing their business outside. But this is a great way to teach impulse control and manners to your puppy. I do not want to have to fight for a position by the door. You can usually start working on this within a week or two of teaching SIT. A great way to teach this command to young puppies is to use two people and sit in a long hallway, one at each end. Take turns calling your puppy with a HERE command. A toy or treat can often help the process. Let your puppy run around a bit but hold onto the end of the cord. Occasionally, call you puppy with a HERE command. It can be helpful at first to crouch down to encourage the puppy to run towards you. Then release the puppy with an OKAY command. Do this a few more times and repeat daily until the puppy is coming to you without you needing to pull the cord. It is also the command most of our clients struggle with the most. Mostly because they are using the wrong tool for the job. For heeling work, it is important that you work with a chain or prong collar. This will give you more control and stop the pulling and surging that many people struggle with. Using a chain or prong collar and a six-foot leash, start walking your puppy at your side. If your puppy is young, be sure to use a puppy chain collar which is smaller than chain collars for adult dogs. And make sure that you are putting it on correctly! An alternate tool to a chain collar and leash is the Wonder or Command Lead. These work great for teaching HEEL. As you start walking use gently tugs on the chain collar with the command HERE to keep your puppy at your side. If your puppy surges or pulls ahead, simply make a degree turn and start walking the other direction giving a sharp, upward tug on the chain collar and saying HEEL several times until the dog is back in a heeling position. Many of our clients have told us they never left their driveway the first few days! But if you are patient and consistent, your dog will quickly learn that if they want to go for a walk, they need to stay at your side. If you want to learn and progress in more obedience work, check out these obedience drills for retrievers. Final thoughts on how to teach your lab puppy obedience Teaching your puppy obedience may take a lot of patience, time and work, but it is such an important thing to do. You will never regret the time! A well-mannered dog is such a joy to be around both in the home and in the field. How to obedience train Labrador puppy. Print Raising a retriever puppy like the pros Your Labrador puppy can seem small and fragile during those first few weeks home from the breeder. Labrador puppies will learn quickly about acceptable and unacceptable behavior those first few weeks, if you, the owner, are willing to set and enforce boundaries. Here is the training you should be working on with your week-old Labrador puppy. About this series of posts This is post three of a step-by-step training and socialization program for Labrador puppies. If you read our first post , you know that this series follows our training of Bubba, a female chocolate lab puppy. Bubba is already sold as one of our Custom Trained Retrievers, so it is our responsibility to raise and train her until she has progressed to the level of training the owner has requested. In this case, Bubba will be with us for almost a year and a half. Training and socialization for week-old Labrador puppy — week three home Your week-old puppy has been with your family for approximately 3 weeks now. This week you should start noticing some bigger changes with your puppy. Here are some of the changes I notice with Bubba. First, she is growing fast! Bubba is almost ready for a new collar already. I have loosened her current collar twice, and there is no more room to expand it. She is also learning a lot. Bubba is also becoming more personable. She likes and has more interest in people now and wants to be petted and scratched more often. Training equipment for Lab puppy We added a couple new training tools this week. But a thicker check cord will also work. We use this check cord for longer outside marks and assistant-marks which I will discuss more in a bit. Puppy sized canvas or light-weight plastic bumpers In week two, we introduced formal retrieving in a hallway in the house. In week three, we move outside with retrieving and introduce assistant throws, so it is helpful to have a few more bumpers. Puppy training that will continue Much of the training I have been working on for the past two weeks with Bubba will continue into this week and beyond. Dog training is not something that has a definitive end-date. For instance, you teach your puppy to SIT and then you must work and practice that command daily or weekly, often for months before the response to the command is solid. But even once the response is solid, you cannot completely stop training. If you stop training, even an older dog, the dog can lose the previous training. So, realize that you are never done working with your dog, especially on obedience training. Some areas that we will continue training Bubba on are: Crate training Bubba is doing great at crate training. She rarely makes any noise while in her crate and settles down quickly after being put into her crate. In the upcoming weeks, we will work towards getting Bubba to enter her crate on command. Looking for more information on crate training? Housebreaking Housebreaking Bubba is going well. We have caught her in a few accidents, but she already seems to understand that she is not supposed to go potty inside. This does not mean that she is done housebreaking. We still expect accidents and will for a few months, so we watch her carefully while she is running around in the house. We also praise her for behaviors like going to the door and tapping the door or whining at the door. These behaviors are rewarded with us taking her outside to go potty. When she goes potty outside, we praise her and then take her right back in. We want her to start understanding that these cue behaviors will get her out to go potty and that is all. Looking for more information on housebreaking? But we will also add a few new ones. We will use this while teaching our puppy the SIT command. It also will be used going forward, anytime we are done working on structured obedience work. We will release the dog from formal work with the OKAY command. But we also use it to mean go to a certain place, such as on a mat or stand. Or, when we want her to go into her crate or kennel. This is an associative command, meaning the puppy will learn the command through our repetition of the word as we tie it to a behavior. But over time, she will make the association and will perform it on her own. This is very important especially if you ever plan on doing more advanced training with your retriever. You will use whatever your dogs name is. A few commands that we will continue to work on this week We will continue to work on obedience commands this week and in the weeks to come. Each week we will expect a little more and better compliance and performance to the command. She is sitting when I put the leash and chain collar on her and when I am taking it off. This week we also added SIT before eating. We only make her SIT for a few seconds; we are working on control. She does not SIT on her own yet, but she will be doing that within a week or so I would guess. Right now, I grab her collar and say SIT. In week three, I have a slightly higher expectation. On walks, I make her walk right beside me for a minute or two using the HEEL command before releasing her and letting her run back and forth a bit. This tells me that she understands the command. Then release her. If every time your puppy comes to you, you put her away or take something away from her, soon your puppy will not want to come to you. You must work hard to make coming to you a good experience for your puppy. So, call her, praise her when she comes and release. Remember: Never use a HERE command if you are not in the position of being able to enforce the command. Make every effort to socialize your puppy You should continue to take steps to socialize your week-old puppy. Anything you can think of. The more things and situations you expose your puppy to, the better your puppy will be equipped to adjust and learn in the future. Learn more about socialization. Hand throws with a puppy bumper you are throwing out a bumper done outside will carry a lot more distraction than retrieves in a hallway. Just pick up the bumper and try again tomorrow. When retrieving outside, make sure you have a long foot rope attached to your puppy. Never try to do retrieves outside without a rope. You will have problems and encourage bad behaviors. You must have a way to get the puppy to come back to you, otherwise you should not be doing retrieves outside. Once your puppy is doing well retrieving outside, you are ready to introduce assistant marks. Introduction to assistant marks The most important thing we worked on with Bubba this week is assistant marks. Assistant marks are retrieves where someone else is throwing the bumper, not you. This teaches your puppy to watch out in the field for a mark. It is very rare that a duck will come from behind you, fly over your head and you shoot it. The ducks and pheasants will be falling in front of you, so the dog must learn to look out and watch for the mark. We start assistant marks on very short grass with white plugs so that the puppy can clearly see the item on the ground. We hold the puppy in a SIT position facing a thrower who is about 20 feet from you. When your puppy picks up the bumper, immediately start calling her back to you. Remember, you should have the foot check cord on her so you can pull the puppy in if needed. Then, take the bumper from her, throw it behind you, make your puppy sit facing the thrower again and repeat. Only do retrieves and then call it a day. Soon your puppy will learn this game and love it. They will start facing the thrower on their own and sitting and waiting for a mark. Final thoughts on training for your week-old Labrador puppy week-old puppies are so eager to learn, so be sure and take advantage of this enthusiasm to teach new concepts and enforce previous ones. Continue to teach your puppy to handle more and more pressure and correction while maintaining a good attitude. Lastly, assistant marks are a big deal. Once a dog learns this part of the game, you can work to increase the distance and complexity of the marks. If you are struggling or need additional help with your new puppy, you can email me ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time, happy retrieving. Labrador Retriever pups are working dogs. This means they live to please you for a treat. The more you engage them with different puppy training behaviors the happier they will be. Of course, Labs will be Labs, and this means that dogs do dog things unless they are trained to follow your expectations. Potty training your puppy is just the beginning of you making clear expectations for your Lab. Puppy training from long leash training to potty training, to not nipping is discussed in greater detail along with clear, easy to follow videos at www. But we will give you an expert training tip summary below. For this reason, you need to become an expert on puppy training. Contact us for a discount on the Puppy Trained Right positive reinforcement training program. Expose your puppy to as many different people and situations possible. Teach dog to dog manners when required. Use Positive Reinforcement. Allow for Play with Other Puppies. Play with other Lab Puppies not only allows your pup to get some exercise it is a form of puppy socialization. Bond with your Puppy. Once a strong bond is formed your Lab Puppy will want to please you even more. Potty Train Right Away. Learn how Dogs Learn. Training a Lab puppy is easy if you understand how to go about it. Give your Lab Puppy Play time to Explore. Labs need this as part of their natural development. Spend more time with your puppy when young. This is the time when your expectations should be clearly outlined and can decrease as she gets older. Begin Training day 1. This happens weather or not you intend it to. Every action and reaction is something your puppy uses to form new habits. So ignoring them jumping up as an 8 week old puppy is training them to jump up and will be much more difficult to un-train once they are 70 lbs. Relax and make learning fun. Your pup needs you happy and enjoying yourself! Use Positive Training Methods because they work. This means reward what you desire. Ensure most Experiences are Positive. Imagine a training session of No, No, No, No! Expose them to as Many Human Situations possible. One cause is that there was not adequate socialization with different men. Be Patient. You are building an amazing K9 personality. The window is between 8 and 20 weeks old. Make the most of it. The better your Lab is socialized the happier they will be. Anxiety in dogs comes from many things. The more things your dog is comfortable with the less chance for anxiety and therefore the happier they are. Prepare yourself, your family and your home before your puppy comes home. It is too late once you meet your puppy as simply interacting with her is training. Allow for Safe Experiences both in the home and outside. Seek professional trainers to help guide you when faced with a problem. Be consistent. Clear expectations are easiest to learn. Focus on Guiding not controlling. Best Start Training or Training Classes are beneficial for both you and your puppy. Expect Success. We tend to move in the direction we believe we will travel. Reward the Behaviors you want to see even something as simple as 4 paws on the ground if you are trying to train your Lab not to jump up on you. Become Well informed. You are teaching a skill like reading that takes clear expectations and builds upon last session. Lab Puppies need constant supervision either human, a crate, a fenced area or a baby gate across a doorway. Encourage a soft mouth. Keep your training up or it will be forgotten. Begin Walking on a Loose Leash Right away. This is always easier for your Lab when they are 12 lbs not 70lbs. Change direction before the leash tightens so they are followers not leaders. This is much easier to train before it happens than correct. Allow alone time for your Lab. Know when to end a training session. End training before your puppy quits. Make time for a few shorter training Sessions. Three fifteen minute sessions are better than one 45 min one. Teach your Lab to respond to their name. Teach your Labrador basic obedience before tricks-come, sit, stay, down, leave it. Have all humans learn the commands and be consistent. Ignore undesirable behaviors. Ignoring includes not saying no, bad dog, touching your dog or making eye contact. Find rewards that your Retriever loves and use them when you have breakthrough training moments. Adjust your expectations as your Lab puppy matures, the older more experienced the higher the expectation. Set Realistic Expectations. Minimize distractions when you begin training. Be aware of your Body Language, Labradors pick up cues from you. Be aware of your leash tension. A tight leash says anxiety from the handler. Know when to get Help .Have fun! Understand that Labs do Lab things. Make them work for food and treats. Exercise your Retriever properly for both intensity and duration. Learn some exercise games Labs love. Give lots of repetition. Stop before they get bored. Establish a Pattern by Praising. Redirect undesired behavior. Accept partial actions at first and gradually increase your expectations. When treats end Verbal treats and chin scratches rule. They will know. Enjoy your well balanced purebred Lab puppy for many years. Purebred Lab Retrievers, are they easier to train? The answer to that is definitely maybe! Not all purebreds are bred for intelligence. For example, if a Labrador Retriever breeder chooses to breed their dogs for a certain look then they may overlook intelligence as one of the important characteristics in order to get a specific Lab look. We however breed for intelligence, health and temperament. So in our case, yes, our Purebred Lab Puppies are easier to train than many because we choose the parents and their puppies specifically for their smarts!

french bulldog puppy white and brown - So, what can you do to help your pup's ears stand? Genetics matter. Just as having puppies from hip-scored parents will lower the chances of your puppy getting hip dysplasia, or just as having puppies from parents who were show champions increases your chances of your puppy becoming a show champion, buying a puppy from parents with in-standard shape, placement, and size that stand strongly increases the chances that your puppy will have similar ears. No matter what you do, you can't cheat DNA. If this is a major concern for you, and it is for some people, cover your bases by starting with a healthy puppy with health-tested parents with in-standard ears. Unfortunately, I'm aware that by the time this question is asked, the most important factor, genetics, is no longer under the questionee's control because they've already chosen a puppy. So on to tips that will help with a current puppy and not the next! I know you want to play with them, don't you? Those cute little satellite dishes! But don't do it. The more you flex and bend them, the harder time they have firming up as the pup gets older. It's okay to pet a puppy. You should pet your puppy but use backward strokes in the way that their ears lie backward naturally. Playing with them isn't going to help. Ears don't have bones in them.The same goes for dogs. Ears are made of cartilage. Supplementing calcium isn't going to strengthen cartilage. Calcium isn't a bad thing for a growing puppy, but if you feed a commercial diet, all of the calcium your dog needs is already in the diet. Giving a bunch of calcium tablets won't help, but it can give your puppy hypercalcemia, which can damage organs such as the kidneys and heart. Find a high-quality diet, and you'll never have to give extra calcium to your puppy or dog. Dogs have 18 muscles in each ear. Each of these muscles controls the possible ways a dog can decide to move their ears. While muscles alone won't help cartilage harden, strong jaw and ear muscles can help with ear set placement. I've seen people worry about the ears of 3-month-old puppies. It's perfectly normal for a pup's ears not to come up until after teething. Teething is usually completed at months. Everything is fine. Use the time before, during, and slightly after teething to make sure your pup is eating the healthiest diet you can provide, is being vaccinated according to your veterinarian's wishes, and make sure your puppy is parasite-free. Little critters sucking blood and nutrients away from your puppy's body will take a toll on its ears.Focus on the things that matter most and hope for the best. Your puppy has finished teething. It's months old. They're still not up. Well, now is the time to be interested in your puppy's ears. At this point, you have four choices. They're just ears. And yes, German Shepherds have really cool ears. It's surprising how few dog breeds have erect ears. Something about the domestication process causes floppy ears in a lot of animals, such as lop-eared rabbits, most dog breeds, some breeds of cattle, some breeds of pigs, etc. One of the first things a person would say to describe a German Shepherd to someone who had never seen one would be to mention their erect ears. But in the end, they're just ears. Your dog will be fine, and it's no big deal if your dog's ears don't stand. Personally, I would contact the breeder and let them know that the pairing they're using is producing weak ears. But if I adopted, I wouldn't have anyone to call to warn. So, I would go on my merry way hoping that whoever bred my dog and let it end up in a shelter never, ever, ever breeds another litter of dogs again. There is a method where you tape up your dog's ears to support them to help them stand. This must be done in the month window. Any sooner is too soon, and 7 months is most likely too late. Your vet likely knows how to do it, but be prepared to get judged by people who have no familiarity with ear taping. A lot of people see tape and think you cropped your pup's ears like it's commonly done on some mastiff breeds and Dobermans. In that procedure, some of the ear is removed during a surgical procedure under anesthesia, and the ear is shaped and taped. You have a very high chance of someone thinking that's what you've done to your German Shepherd puppy, even though no vet in their right mind would do it, even if you asked them, including veterinarians who specialize in doing crop surgeries in show dogs. Again, remember, taping a German Shepherd's ears involves no pain whatsoever. No cutting. No surgery. Nothing more than maybe slight confusion as to why you're taping a structure to their head. The same confusion a puppy would have if they had any bandage or new collar on them for the first time. Even after reading this and it being explained, someone will still say it's abuse to tape a puppy's ears up. It happens every time. And then they'll go put a harness or collar and leash on a puppy, both of which caused very similar confusion before their puppy got used to it. Moral of the story: If this is what you want to do, don't let anyone make you feel like a bad person for using the same skin-safe medical tape we've all had on our skin for one scrape, cut, burn, or another. Same principle as taping, only you're using skin-safe adhesive and gluing foam cutouts to the inside of the ear. It works, but honestly, no one really uses this method anymore. It's harder for the dog to get off, but it's messy. It's still an option, though. In my opinion, if you're winning shows by using surgical enhancements, you're being dishonest with the judges, unfair to the other competitors, and deceitful with your puppy buyers if you ever breed the dog. Of these four options, throwing in the towel is the option with the least amount of hassle. Taping can work and causes no pain, except to you as you re-tape again and again when your puppy removes the tape. The last two options aren't practical in my book, but I said we'd talk about how to get a puppy's ears to stand, not exclude things that work because I personally don't find the ethics behind surgery appealing or find other methods outdated. These are the dos and don'ts, the maybes, and the why-nots of German Shepherd puppy ears standing. Remember to relax. If your puppy is still teething or under months, it's normal for the ears to be down, or to have been up and gone back down during teething, as is having one ear up and the other down or any combination of the aforementioned. Please leave a like, share, and tag everyone you know who has ever asked about the ears of German Shepherd puppies. We have finally condensed everything people want to know into one article! Thank you again. Aug 18, Share German Shepherds have a distinctive look that includes alert, erect ears. For most pups, the ear cartilage begins to harden around week 20, or when the pup is finished teething. At that point, it can take up to 20 weeks for the ears to stand up fully. This can vary by the individual, however. Like human ears, dog ears are made of cartilage. As they grow and gain nutrition, German Shepherds develop stronger and stronger cartilage to support those ears. Typically, puppies at weeks will have floppy ears that occasionally stand up but quickly fall back down. Around week 20, or 5 months, your pup is done teething and its ears will begin to harden and stand. Your vet may have some suggestions to help the process along. If your pup reaches 8 months and still has floppy ears, the chance of them standing on their own is slim. Some breeders try to breed for larger ears, leading to ears that are too heavy to stand up. If strong, alert ears are important to you, be sure to look for a pup with parents that have erect ears. If the ears sustain trauma during that time, it can cause permanent damage to the cartilage. If your puppy gets parasites, it can impact healthy development, which includes the hardening of its ear cartilage. Be sure to take your puppy to the vet regularly and have routine fecal exams to check for worms and other parasites. Your vet can recommend an appropriate deworming protocol for your growing puppy and treat parasites if they occur. However, if you want your puppy to have strong, alert ears, you can help the process along in a number of ways. In an effort to move ear development along, some owners will add supplements like calcium. Chew toys are also good for teething and keeping your puppy occupied. German Shepherds are strong, even as pups, so be sure to choose solid, durable chew toys that are safe and appropriate for your puppy. It should only be used as a last resort, however. If you use tape too early, it can hinder natural development. That said, if you wait until the seventh or eighth month, it may be too late to help. Glue the ends of the popsicle stick to the tape on both ears, horizontally. Once a week, remove the popsicle stick, foam, and tape. If the ears stand on their own, leave them. Related Reads:. However, some adult German Shepherds will have floppy ears. There are several causes for this. There is also a genetic trait in some German Shepherds to have floppy ears. When one or both of the parents has floppy ears, there is a strong chance that the offspring will inherit this trait. If this is the case with your dog, there is not much you can do about his floppy ears. Rough play. GSD puppies play rough , and a lot of times, this can affect their ears through nips and bites. Cartilage is not like the skin because it is not highly vascularized. You can support the healing times by offering him a healthy, balanced diet. You may even consider food specially formulated for German Shepherds. Ear infections. Because they have such dense fur, German Shepherds are highly susceptible to ear infections. The coat interferes with the air circulation of the ear canals, setting up the perfect circumstances for infections and mites. Signs of these problems include shaking the head and pawing the ears. The ears may go up for a bit during the teething process and then return to the floppy position. After more time passes, the ears should return to the upward position again. However, even after nine months, there are several methods that you can try that will assist in training his ears to stand. When your puppy reaches eight months old and still has floppy ears, you can try giving him chew toys to work out his jaw muscles. Chewing on toys will work his temporalis muscle, which is one of the muscles involved in supporting upright ears. Ear taping can be done at home, while surgical implants will need to be administered by a veterinarian in a sterile environment. The ear may be set in its position at this stage, and the procedure may not have much effect. Discard the hard plastic clip from the inside of each roller and only keep the spongy foam parts. Steps to Follow The first step is to insert the pencil into one of the rollers roughly one inch to create a handhold. Ensure it is well-covered, but do not use it so much that it oozes or drips off the roller. Then tape the ear into a fairly firm roll in an upright position. The roller must be placed inside and near the bottom of the ear flap. Remove the pencil from the roller. You will have to keep your puppy distracted for a few minutes until the glue has time to dry. The rollers will fall out on their own in roughly a week. You can remove them before this if you need to. Taping is intended to provide support to the cartilage of the ears so that it can form adequately and be strong enough to make the ears stand up. It is a painless procedure, but it can cause some discomfort for your dog. Additionally, if your German Shepherd is genetically predisposed to having floppy ears, no amount of taping will override his genes. His ears may perk up and flop back down during teething, which begins around 3 months old. Once teething is over, his ears will once again perk up. At this stage, they may be somewhere in the middle. One ear may be standing while the other is floppy, or both may be half-standing. You may even have a German Shepherd who has both ears fully upright at this age! If they are not, you will have to visit your veterinarian or breeder for advice on what to do. German Shepherd Ear Positions There are several German Shepherd ear positions that you will observe as your puppy grows from a newborn to 8 months old. First, he will have teensy ears from birth to 7 weeks of age. This is when his ears will flop to both sides. His ears will experience the flying nun position from 10 to 14 weeks. For this position, his ears will still be flopped to the sides but will be slightly lifted. Starting at around 14 weeks, his ears will be in the comb-over position where both ears will flop to one side of his head or the other. Anywhere from 15 weeks on, his ears will go into the seashell position. This position has the ears mostly upright but not quite all the way. At some point, one ear may flop over while one is upright in the one-up ear position. This position may be concerning because an ear that was previously upright suddenly flops over. However, it is temporary, and the ear will return to normal. Finally, once these stages have been cycled through, the ears will go into the perfect upright position. Note that not all stages will be experienced by every dog. Age in weeks. Bright eyes, strong profiles, and of course, those perky, attentive ears! When you first bring your German Shepherd puppy home, its ears will probably be floppy and droopy — at times, those ears may try to make a stand, only to fall back down again. What gives!? As your German Shepherd grows and gets the right nutrition among other things , the cartilage gets stronger and stronger. And voila — straight, pointy German Shepherd ears! But is it really that simple? Sometimes, yes. Sometimes, no. German Shepherd puppy ears can be unpredictable! The key is to be patient and give those ears time to develop on their own before stepping in. Those ears should perk back up after teething is over. If you want to learn more about the timing of teething and what to look for, check out this article on German Shepherd puppy teething. When went to visit my German Shepherd, Allie pictured above at 7 weeks old , her ears were floppy and undeniably precious. I brought Allie home at 8 weeks, and those ears still had their ups and downs, but by 10 weeks old, her ears were up permanently. So, the key is to catch it in time. This flip-floppy stage is completely normal. Genetics can also come into play when some breeders try to breed specifically for German Shepherds with larger ears. As a result, those big, oversized, heavy ears may be too much to stand up. If pointy, perky ears are important to you, then choose your breeder and puppy carefully. Make sure to check out the parents — how do their ears look? Any significant trauma to the ears during this time can cause permanent damage — which may also cause droopy ears. Try to have everyone keep their hands off those adorable ears as much as possible. Parasites: Yuck. Puppies need chew toys, as it exercises their jaw and their head and neck muscles. Those muscles are important for perky puppy ears. So, let your puppy chew, chew, and chew on the right things of course. If you need some ideas for durable dog toys that can withstand those chomping jaws, then check out this article for my picks of the best tough German Shepherd chew toys. Stick to a high-quality, natural diet instead. Cottage cheese and yogurt both have plenty of calcium without overdoing it , and chicken feet are a natural source of glucosamine, which helps strengthen cartilage. Give those ears time to develop on their own before you resort to taping. At the end of the article are some sources that go over common methods of taping. Note: There are several options that you can use for this — there are even foam dog ear forms. Thin, white surgical tape that tears easily. A 2-inch wide tape works well, and you can also get this at Walmart, CVS, or somewhere similar. Note: Do NOT use duct tape or electrical tape — these will do way more harm than good! An unsharpened pencil or popsicle stick. Adhesive — either skin bond adhesive or eyelash glue are good choices. Give those ears plenty of time to develop and get stronger before taking action. How old was your German Shepherd puppy when its ears finally stood up? Let me know below! I get a lot of emails about taping German Shepherd puppy ears. The majority of these emails come from people who are jumping the gun and worrying too much. By that, I mean their pups are 3 or 4 months old and they are starting to panic because their puppy's ears are not standing. I tell these people that they need patience, they need to wait until their pup has finished teething. I caution these people not to jump the gun and tape the dog's ears too early or in the wrong way. I know people who have screwed their dog's ears up for life by doing this. I have had puppy customers who go ballistic on me and panic. So I issue a word of caution here. With that said, the other side of the spectrum of taping ears is something that many people do not take seriously until it's too late. When ears are taped at 7 and 8 months, there is very little chance of it working. This is an unfortunate fact of life. German Shepherd puppy ears can come up between 8 weeks and 6 months. If they are not up when the dog is through teething this varies from dog to dog but in general between 16 weeks and 20 weeks of age , I tell my puppy customers to get very interested in their ears. While it's not time to panic, it is time to sit up and take notice. The first thing to do is make sure that your puppy is in good health. This means no intestinal parasites. Take a stool sample to your vet to have it analyzed. It's also important to make sure the pup is getting good quality food. We feed and recommend a raw diet but if you do feed a commercial diet, I strongly recommend researching all the options available and feeding the highest-quality food you can afford. View our list of all-natural kibble alternatives. In fact, a lot of times, a pup will have both ears up and all of a sudden, they will come back down when the pup starts to teeth. Many owners panic when this happens. But not to worry, I have never seen a pup whose ears did not go back up when this happens. If a pup does not have his ears up by 5 months, I strongly recommend that you get involved with taping your dog's ears. Use the thin white surgical tape the kind that's paper-thin and tears easily. The 3M Micropore tape, 2" wide, works well. I like to use women's hair rollers. Take the plastic out of them and just use the foam. Wrap the ear around the foam and tape them into a tight roll. In a vertical position. Take a popsicle stick and attach it to the top part of both ears. In a horizontal position. The pup is going to tear the tape or stick off the ears several times. The key is to continue to re-tape the ears. Sooner or later, the pup will forget the tape and ignore it. About once a week, take the tape off and see if the ears will stand on their own. Continue to re-tape until the ears stand. If the ears are not up by 7 or 8 months, they are not going to come up. The ears should look like this once taped. The same dog with ears now up. I have seen ears that did not stand, which in my opinion would have stood had they been taped. So this process is not something to take lightly. I also need to say that many ears will be a little weak right after taping but with time, they will strengthen. So when an ear does not stand perfectly after taping don't panic. Just have patience and see what happens. You will really not have an idea exactly what you have until the pup is 12 months old. When ears do not stand, there are ear implants that can be surgically added. I have no experience with this and do not know anything about them. If you are unlucky enough to have a dog whose ears will not stand, I would point you toward a vet that has some experience in this area. I don't think it's something that normal small animal vets know how to do well. In my opinion, too young to tape. The material to use to tape German Shepherd Ears The pup with its ears taped I prefer taping German Shepherd Dogs ears after the dog has finished teething. This usually means the dog is older than 4 - 6 months. Maybe waiting another month would have been a better idea for this puppy.


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