show quality golden retriever puppies for sale

I'm Heidi I have been breeding Golden Retrievers for over 30 years. She had terrible skin problems, hated the water and would not retrieve. Because of my poor experience, I decided to devote my life to providing the world with Golden Retrievers that exemplified the best traits of the breed while maintaining a high standard of health. When I married my husband Tom, he became part of my wonderful life with Golden Retrievers. We now operate the business as a family, and our children assist with the socializing and care of our adorable Golden Retriever puppies and lovable adult dogs. Contact Us We'd love to hear from you! You can email us using this form or you can call .There are eight tests that we do on all of our sires and dams. Should they fail, we take great efforts to place them in pet homes with people who love them as much as we do. Our Facilities To ensure their comfort, all of our dogs are provided with horse troughs and air conditioning in the summer and heated housing in the winter. They are raised in our home and socialized daily. No dogs are ever kenneled. Customer Relations We go to great extents to keep in touch with the new puppy owners. Before pickup we will send pictures and videos on request. Some of our customers have continued correspondence long enough for us to become good friends. We continue our customer relations even after the puppies are in their new homes and ask everyone to keep in touch. We want to hear the good and bad news. If there is a problem we want to hear from you even if it is a simple question. For example: cutting toenails or how often to bathe your golden. Morgan was born on September 30, and i brought him home on November 10, .He is a big boy, full of energy, and the love of my life. He is very easy going, loves everyone, people as well as dogs. He loves to play, and if a dog is small, he will get down on his belly to get to their level. I am thrilled that he joined my family. Marijeanne Connolly ,Missoula We have had our dog for one year now. He was a puppy of Higgins and Dream. We love the breed and when we had to put our first Golden down due to cancer, we did not hesitate to get another one. In fact, we drove to your house the day after he died. I never thought we could love a dog as much as our first Golden, but this dog has so much personality. He loves the kids and and shows us everyday just how much he loves us. He loves to ride in the car with us and runs to the car every time we get the keys. He is a joy and so smart. He is such a beautiful dog. We get so many compliments on him. Thank you so much for raising such wonderful pets. He has brought a lot of joy into our lives. I am sorry I have not been in touch sooner! I just wanted to let you know how things are going with "mack" ashley and higgins puppy. He is amazing! He is so sweet and laid back, and he is so good looking too! He is full of puppy energy when he gets around other dogs, but for the most part he is so chill when I need for him to be. So far he has caused no problems! Thank you so much for such a wonderful dog! He is everything I was looking for and more. I am so glad that I found you. I could not have asked for a more perfect puppy. I have attached some pictures to this e-mail. I hope that you enjoy them. Thanks again! Some of ours have become famous Follow Watson on Instagram! He's a Lulu-Benny puppy! Watson is the "Trust Fall" pooch living with his brother Kiko and both sharing their love to the world. Fergus is a famous LL Bean fashion model! Reserve your puppy now! Call us at .Life Span Did You Know? The Golden Retriever has been an AKC-recognized breed since and was commonly used as a gun dog and for retrieving small game such as waterfowl, and for companionship. The Golden Retriever originated in the Scottish Highlands. The first Lord Tweedmouth, Dudley Majoribanks, is credited with developing the breed and keeping detailed records to create the ideal gun dog for the terrain. Great discipline and a gentle spirit make the Golden Retriever a perfect retrieval breed since the goal of this task is to bring the trophy back as undamaged as possible. Golden Retrievers first appeared in dog shows in at a British dog show. They also started appearing in the United States around the same time as they were brought across the Canadian border. They gained popularity with sport hunters and in general. Their popularity really took off in the s and they are consistently one of the most popular dog breeds. If you are not the sporting type, bringing a Golden Retriever into your family as a pet is just as rewarding because they are one of the most loyal and jovial breeds out there. One of the facts about Golden Retrievers is that they are the epitome of friendly and make fantastic family dogs. Golden Retrievers are considered one of the friendliest dog breeds. They tend to be good with kids, other dogs, other pets, and even strangers. Goldens love attention and they bond closely with their families. They are affectionate with them, and also just about everyone else. Although they do tend to get along with everyone, they love being around their favorite humans the most. They will bark to alert you and can end up barking a lot if you do not train your dog to stop barking early on. Golden Retrievers are highly adaptable dogs. They thrive in homes with yards where they can run. They can also adapt to apartment living as long as they get enough daily exercise, mental stimulation, and attention. These dogs do well in just about any climate, but are sensitive to heat. As one of the most affectionate dog breeds , they are not at all happy about being left alone for long periods of time. Although super-friendly and attention-loving, Goldens can also be sensitive to their surroundings; make sure they feel included, but have a quiet place to go if things get too noisy or overwhelming. Potential health concerns to be aware of in a Golden Retriever include progressive retinal atrophy, cataracts, elbow dysplasia , and hip dysplasia. Good breeding practices make a big difference in the health of puppies. Reputable breeders screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues to puppies. So, make sure you ask about the health and genetic history of the parents. You can also ask about any health tests or clearances that have been done. Goldens are considered one of the best dog breeds for first-time owners. They are highly trainable dogs that pick up on things quickly and are eager to please. These traits make them a good fit for owners of all experience levels. It also helps them excel at obedience competitions. As one of the smartest dog breeds , Golden Retrievers can get bored easily. Because they pick up things quickly, they can get bored with too much repetition in training. If your dog has mastered the command, move on to something more advanced or another activity. You can also enroll in puppy training classes for some variety in training and also some socialization. Golden Retrievers have a long double coat that will shed a little year-round and will be heavier twice a year as the seasons change. Brushing a few times a week and daily brushing during seasonal shedding along with a bath as needed is usually enough for at-home care. You will want to go to the dog groomer for a professional trim a few times a year, especially as the seasons change. Nail trims once or twice monthly keep nails from growing too long. Daily tooth brushing, along with cleanings at the vet when needed, is ideal. Golden Retrievers are one of the most active dog breeds. Daily walks plus some playtime, time to run, and other activities are usually enough to keep these dogs happy and healthy. But, they are high-energy dogs that will likely always be up for more activity if you are. Much like the Labrador , they also tend to have an extended puppyhood. They tend to start winding down a little around the age of 3 and settle into your lifestyle, but they will still be high-energy dogs that require a lot of daily activity. Goldens are known for being versatile and athletic dogs. They tend to love swimming. Once they are done growing and the vet clears them for higher-impact activities, you can try other things too. They are one of the dog breeds that make good running partners. You can also teach them how to play frisbee or play fetch. Training for dog sports is another good option. In addition to obedience, Golden Retrievers are well suited for agility, dock diving , rally, flyball, tracking, and more. Fully-grown Golden Retrievers usually stand inches tall and weigh pounds. Golden Retrievers generally live for years on average. With their intelligence, eagerness to please, and gentle disposition, Golden Retrievers are versatile working dogs. In addition to being one of the dog breeds that make the best service dogs , Goldens can be found working as emotional support dogs, certified therapy dogs, search and rescue dogs, military dogs, police dogs, animal actors, and more. Featured Golden Retriever Article.

And to do that, we have to start with the blue French Bulldog. The blue Frenchie is a unique color variation of the French Bulldog breed, which is caused by a recessive gene known as the dilution gene. If you really want to know how pure your Frenchie is, i. That spot would probably go to either the lilac Frenchie or the isabella Frenchie , both of which are extremely hard to find, and also extremely expensive. And that is pretty similar in the canine world, as well. With that in mind, we can say that blue and tan French Bulldogs have all the same personality traits and quirks that we usually associate with the French Bulldog breed. They are very low-energy and low-maintenance dogs who thrive on social interaction and the exchange of affection. They love to cuddle, play around, and generally spend time with their owners. They are great with both adults and kids, which makes them perfect family pets. In addition, due to their small size, they are comfortable in small apartments and in big houses alike. Blue And Tan French Bulldog Grooming Needs Photo from: rockysssmodernlife Another thing that is a big positive of the blue and tan French Bulldogs is their relatively low grooming needs, at least when it comes to their coats. However, other grooming aspects can be a bit more demanding, especially when it comes to their skin and face. You need to pay special attention to their skin and make sure that their folds are clean and not irritated. Blue and tan Frenchies are particularly prone to various skin conditions, and you need to be on high alert a lot of the time. Additionally, due to their brachycephalic head shape, they are more prone to dental problems, so you will need to make sure that the hygiene of their teeth and mouth is on point. Blue and tan French Bulldogs are a beautiful dog breed, they really are, but they come with a set of question marks over their health. All French Bulldogs and a lot of similarly built breeds can struggle with respiratory issues because of their brachycephalic head shape. That significantly impacts their ability to be active, as long and intensive walks can be hurtful for them. Dermatitis and skin allergies are just a couple of examples. More specifically, when talking strictly about blue and tan French Bulldogs, they can frequently struggle with color dilution alopecia. These are some of the things I was referring to when asking if blue and tan French Bulldogs are worth the hype. At the start of this article, I mentioned that Frenchies are often considered a status symbol, and that is something that is reflected in their price. The veterinary expenses can pile up pretty quickly! As a general rule of thumb, I can say that the rarer a color is, the more expensive it will be. There is another case that I simply have to mention. Black and tan Frenchies need special treatment, and that will require a lot of effort, time, and money from your side. Clair is our female Blue and Tan Frenchie with tan points. Our French Bulldogs have had no health problems. I get questions about blue alopecia; we do not have that issue with our dogs or the puppies we have produced. We feed high-quality dog food to curb any skin or digestive problems. Yes, Frenchies can have gas and throw up; feeding high-quality food will get you close to eliminating these problems. We work on producing puppies with a little bit of a nose to help with breathing problems. On a cool morning, our girls will walk a mile or more with no issues. Never walk your French Bulldog in the heat, no matter the size of the nose. We do not produce extreme Frenchies with a flat nose and face or minis. Why are French Bulldogs so expensive? French Bulldogs require artificial insemination and c-sections to reproduce. They also have very slim hips, which makes it difficult for them to reproduce naturally. Breeding French Bulldogs is also a full-time job; they require constant attention and care. Are French Bulldogs good companions? French Bulldogs have the sweetest, funniest, and most unique personalities. Our Frenchies keep us entertained all the time. They are the biggest clowns! Frenchies will be as lazy or as active as you want them to be. But as with all dogs, they do need some activity. A short walk, playing ball, or just some mental activity helps keep your Frenchie fit inside and out! Deposits are not refundable if purchase is not completed due to no fault of Wild Blue French Bulldogs. We will meet in a public area. Outside the local area must be agreed upon prior. We do not ship puppies but can recommend a flight nanny. Blue French Bulldogs are widely loved for their blue-gray coat color. The distinctive blue hue of their coat is the result of a genetic mutation that causes a dilution of the black pigment in their fur, resulting in the enchanting blue-gray appearance that has captured the hearts of dog enthusiasts worldwide. Their distinctive appearance is characterized by a solid blue base color with beige markings on various parts of their body, including their paws, chest, bottom, cheeks, and eyebrows. Size French Bulldogs are a small breed, making them an excellent choice for apartment dwellers and families alike. Color French Bulldogs are renowned for their wide range of coat colorations. From traditional Frenchie patterns like brindle and pied to the more exotic tan and merle markings you can choose from a wide range of choices. The cost of a French Bulldog can fluctuate based on several factors, including gender, color, pedigree and the very breeder you get your puppy from. Normally, the average price of a quality Frenchie from a reputable breeder is around 5, USD. Personality French Bulldogs are known for their affectionate and playful nature. They make wonderful companions and are great with families and singles alike. Consistent and positive reinforcement-based training will ensure that they grow up to be well-behaved pets. As mentioned earlier, the cost of acquiring one of these delightful pups can vary. The variation in price can be influenced by factors such as their age and the beauty of the puppy. Purchasing a Blue and Tan Frenchie from a responsible and reputable breeder like TomKings Puppies is crucial for several reasons: Health and Quality Assurance: Our breeding program focuses on the health and well-being of our dogs. We conduct regular health checks, provide proper nutrition, and prioritize socialization to ensure your puppy starts life on the right paw. Ethical Practices: TomKings Puppies adheres to ethical breeding practices, placing the welfare of our dogs at the forefront of everything we do. We provide ongoing support and guidance to ensure your pup thrives in its new home. Contact us today to learn more about our available pups and how you can make one of these beautiful dogs your own. We have a litter due second week of April that will likely have blues! Levi is blue and momma is fawn but carries blue and chocolate. See Blue Puppies! For those of you Frenchie lovers who are interested in the genetics behind the blue color, here it is. This of you who are just here for the cute Frenchie pics, scroll down. The blue gene is actually a gene that dilutes the color of genes on the K and A-locus. The K locus determines if there is bridling or not. The A locus determines if the Frenchie is solid black, tri-color, fawn, or sable. If the puppy is solid black determined by A-locus and inherits two copies of the dilute gene of the D-locus, the black coloring is diluted to the blue color. French Bulldog Blue Male: Adam If the frenchie is fawn determined by A-locus and inherits two dilute genes on the D-Locus then, he will be blue fawn which is more of a champagne color. If they inherit one or two copies of the brindle gene they will express brindling in their coat making the beautiful blue brindle French Bulldog. They can express a light amount of brindle like or be like Remy here who is a reverse brindle and expresses lots of brindling in his coat. Piebald is a recessive gene. This means in order to be pied they have to carry two copies of the gene on the S-locus. This creates beautiful patterns of splashes of color varying from large quantities of patches or maybe just a tiny dot on their tail or elsewhere. Those who only have a tiny dot appear to be white and are considered to be extreme pieball. Romeo is a blue brindle pieball. Yes, I let him right in to warm his ears by the fireplace. In order for this color to be expressed. We are looking at the K-locus, A-locus, and the D-locus. K will determine if there is brindling expressed in the tan points or not. Just one copy of the brindle gene will allow for brindling to occur. But remember to be blue they must also inherit two copies of the dilute gene one D-locus.

Want to learn how to crate train your golden retriever puppy fast? Crate training is one of the best things you can do for your puppy. It helps accelerate potty training, it keeps them safe, and it helps keep them from learning bad habits like chewing up shoes. Read this article to learn more about potty training your golden retriever puppy. When I was a kid I hated vegetables. I just wanted fries and chicken nuggets. But what did my parents do? They made me eat veggies a little at a time until I got used to them. And then after I got used to them, I learned to love them. Now as an adult, I would much rather prefer a pile of grilled zucchini, broccoli, and asparagus than a plateful of fries. Crate training your golden retriever follows a similar pattern. But the following steps are going to teach you how to teach them to love their crate and handle being alone. The wire crate helped because it was open so he could always see the people around him, which lessened his anxiety of being in there alone at first. Step 2: Get The Crate Ready This is another step that you will have ideally done before you bring your puppy home. The first thing to consider when getting the crate ready for your pup is where to put it. Here are a few options: In your bedroom In the living room or other area where people in your home hang out Get two crates and have one in your bedroom and one in the living room Golden retrievers love being around people, so having their crate around people will usually help ease some of the pain of crate training. This will usually help with the loneliness and crying. The other thing to consider when getting the crate ready is what to put in it. You also may want to put a bed in there to make it comfortable for them. So how do you do that? First, they need to decide to go into the crate themselves. You can do that by putting a favorite toy in the crate, or scattering food in there. Expect them to walk in and right back out the first time. You want to make it so that they know fun things are in the crate. Check out the video below for a fun crate training game to help your puppy learn to love their crate. Walk out of the room for a second, then come back in. Then walk out for five seconds, then ten seconds. These next few sections will answer some common questions that new puppy owners have, as well as some tips to help the process go smoothly. Putting your puppy in the crate with a full bladder is one way you can set them up to fail. Also, frozen kongs or chew toys with peanut butter work great for easing your puppy into getting comfortable in their crate by themselves. That means that a two-month-old puppy can only hold it for about two to three hours, so expect to have to wake up two or three times every night until they get a little older. Take the water bowl away about two or three hours before bedtime so that your puppy will have time to fully empty their bladder before going to sleep for the night. Get them sufficiently tired during the day. Play games like tug, fetch or chase to physically wear them out, and train them and give them puzzle toys like frozen kongs to mentally wear them out. Set an alarm to wake yourself up before they wake up themselves. This is a tough situation, but it can be done. Here are some tips to make it work. You may have to come home on your lunch break, ask friends, family, or neighbors to come over, or hire a dog walker to let your puppy out. Wear them out in the mornings Go on walks, play chase, fetch and tug, or wrestle with them in the mornings to get some of their endless energy out. Utilize an exercise pen You might want to consider getting an exercise pen like this one from Amazon and circling it around the front of the crate to give your dog some extra room. Check out the video below for an example of what a crate looks like with an exercise pen attached for extra space. Does she need to pee? Is she full of energy? Or does she just want to get out and get some attention? Remember to set them up for success before you put them in crate, meaning physically and mentally tiring them out and making sure their bladder is empty. You can also leave for short periods of time starting at seconds , then come back and let her out. How long it takes for your puppy to get used to the crate depends. Did you rush them into it, or did you let them learn that the crate is awesome? Have you been rewarding them for barking in it, or have they learned that silence is what gets them out of the crate? It also depends on the dog. Some dogs take to crates much better than others. You can do it! Is Crate Training Ever Over? We started leaving him alone in the house somewhere around six months old, and then a few months after that we started letting him sleep outside of his crate he decided to sleep under the toilet… weird dude. Two big questions to ask yourself when considering taking this next step are: When was the last time my puppy had an accident in the house? When was the last time my puppy chewed something up in the house? Just like with crate training, you want to take baby steps and set them up for success. Crate Training Mistakes While all of the tips above will help make crate training go smoothly, the mistakes below can ruin your efforts, or at least make it very hard to get them to relax in their crate. Mistake 2: Rushing crate training Crate training takes time. Would you want to go in an unfamiliar box in an unfamiliar house? They need to learn that the crate is fun, safe, and relaxing, and that takes time. This leads us to the next mistake… Mistake 4: Punishing them for crying in the crate If a puppy is crying in the crate because they want attention, they might perceive you yelling at them as attention. Mistake 6: Using the crate too much Golden retrievers are lovers. Conclusion Crate training is one of the best things you can do for your puppy. Have any questions about crate training? Or have any other tips for new puppy owners? Let me know in the comments below! Related articles:. Key Takeaways Crate training can help you provide a safe and comfortable environment for your Golden Retriever. Avoid rushing the crate training process to ensure your dog feels comfortable and secure. Please do not use the crate as a punishment or leave your dog in it for extended periods. Crate training can be more effective and enjoyable for your dog if you use consistency, positive reinforcement, treats, and toys. Make it more comfortable by providing toys, blankets, and treats. Step 2: Once your pup is at ease, close the door and bring toys and treats inside. Keep an eye on them and let them out if they become distressed. Step 3: Increase the time your puppy spends in the crate with the door closed gradually, and step away from the crate while they are distracted. Step 4: Extend the time you are away from the crate. Selecting The Right Crate Size To ensure your Golden Retriever is comfortable and has enough space in their crate, you need to measure them accurately. Golden Retrievers will typically grow to by 20 to 24 inches tall and up to 75 lbs, so you need to make sure to get them the right size crate. Follow these steps to determine the size of your dog: 1. Measure the height of your Golden Retriever: Have your dog stand up straight, Measure from the floor to the top of their shoulder blades. Add around inches to this measurement to determine the minimum height for the crate. Measure the length of your dog from the tip of their nose to the base of their tail. Remember to add 2 to 4 inches to the measurement. Measure their width by having your Golden Retriever standing with their legs slightly apart. Focus your attention on the widest part of their body, which tends to be the chest area. Once again, always add up to 4 inches to the figure. Finally, you want to consider the age of your Golden Retriever. For example, if you have a puppy, keep in mind that they will grow rapidly. You may want to choose a crate that will work for their adult size or opt for an adjustable crate with dividers, so you can gradually increase the space as they grow. Your Golden Retriever puppy will rapidly outgrow a nice crate that is not suited for an adult size. Now that you have all the measurements, you can refer to this Crate Size Calculator to find out the right and best dog crate size for your golden retriever. What Is Crate Training? Crate training is the process of teaching a dog to accept a crate as a familiar and safe location. Here are some of the reasons: House training: Using a crate, you can help your dog learn where and when to go potty. This will make house training more effortless and less stressful for both of you. Safe space: A crate can be a relaxing and safe place for your dog to relax and sleep. It can also help keep your dog out of a mess by preventing them from chewing on inappropriate items or getting into dangerous substances. Traveling: Whether driving or flying across the country, a crate can help keep your dog safe and comfortable. Additionally, many hotels and other accommodations allow crate-trained dogs. Separation anxiety: A crate can provide security and comfort if your dog gets anxious when you leave. Knowing they have a safe place to go can help alleviate their anxiety and make their time away from home less stressful. Overall, crate training is an excellent way to provide your dog with a secure and comfortable environment to call their own. You should start crate training your puppy when you bring them home. However, with patience and positive reinforcement, an older dog can be trained to use a crate. Crate training can be a helpful way to provide a safe and comfortable space for your Golden Retriever to rest and relax, but it should never be used as a form of punishment or confinement. When done responsibly and positively, crate training can be a positive and effective method for you and your Golden Retriever. However, with time, consistency, and positive reinforcement, you can help your dog get used to his crate. Add treats, toys, and blankets to the crate to make it more inviting. Increasing the time your dog spends in the crate gradually is crucial. Remember that crate training should be enjoyable for you and your Golden Retriever. You can quickly make your furry friend feel safe and secure in their crate with a little effort! Benefits Of Crate Training Your Golden Retriever Crate training can be super helpful for your furry friend and offer them a bunch of benefits, such as: Prevents Destructive Behavior: By giving your Golden Retriever a cozy and secure space, crate training can prevent them from chewing, digging, or scratching on household items. Potty Training: Crate training can teach your Golden Retriever to associate the crate with their den, making it easier to hold their bladder and bowels until you take them outside. Prepares Them For Travel: If you need to take your Golden Retriever on a trip, crate training can help them feel comfortable and secure while in transit. Crate training is a great way to help your Golden Retriever feel safe, secure, and comfortable while preventing destructive behavior and keeping them healthy and happy. Adult dogs: They can handle up to 8 hours in a crate, ideally with a break in the middle. Overnight: Many dogs can stay in a crate overnight without issues. Always ensure that any time in the crate is a positive experience for the dog, supplemented by regular breaks, exercise, and playtime outside of the crate. The shift is a delicate balance of patience, supervision, and positive reinforcement. Gradual Exploration Start by letting your dog explore a restricted, safe space under supervision. As comfort grows, extend the time they spend outside the crate. Monitor and Supervise Observe your dog closely during early freedom stages to prevent accidents or mischief. Ensure your home is dog-proofed to minimize potential hazards. Essential Amenities Keep their water bowl accessible. Designate a comfortable resting spot outside the crate. Positive Reinforcement Reward good behavior with treats or praise. This encourages adherence to house rules and reinforces desired behavior. Display patience and affection throughout their transition. With time and consistent guidance, your furry friend will seamlessly integrate into the household, striking a balance between freedom and behavior. Before leaving your dog alone in the crate, be patient and make sure your furry friend is comfortable and safe. For them, the crate should be a positive and safe space, and associating it with negative experiences can cause anxiety and fear. While some time in the crate is acceptable, providing sufficient opportunities for exercise, socialization , and bathroom breaks throughout the day is essential. Maintain a consistent routine and use the same commands each time you place your dog in the crate. Use Toys And Treats: Place toys and treats inside the crate to entice your dog to enter. This will make the crate a more positive and enjoyable environment for them to be in. Ensure your pup gets enough exercise and playtime throughout the day, so your furry companion can relax in the crate when the time comes. Excessive whining, barking, panting, and restlessness are all signs of stress in a Golden Retriever. If your furry friend exhibits these behaviors in the crate, they may be too stressed. Can I use a crate for my adult golden retriever? Yes, as long as it is appropriately sized and they are comfortable in it, you can use a crate for your adult Golden Retriever. Can you leave a puppy crying in the crate? Leaving a crying puppy in the crate is not recommended because it can cause separation anxiety and other behavioral problems. Instead, it is critical to gradually acclimate them to the crate and create a positive and comfortable environment. Should you put a blanket over a dog crate? Yes, draping a blanket over a dog crate can provide a sense of security and darkness, but ensure proper ventilation is maintained. What age is too late to train a puppy? Galen has been connecting quality Golden Retriever breeders with loving families since and is the founder of My Golden Retriever Puppies. He and his wife have four children and love spending time together, traveling lived oversees for 4 years , enjoying the outdoors and connecting Golden families. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. Food bowl Treats Make sure you have all the above items before you bring your Golden retriever puppy home so that you can get started crate training him right away. Position The Crate Before you set off to collect your puppy, decide where you want his crate to be. Prepare The Crate Fit the crate with a non-slip crate liner, comfy bed, or crate pad, and put a tempting chew toy inside. Put a bowl of water and a packet of treats close by. Cut a small piece of the blanket and put it in the crate. Keep the rest of the blanket for future use. Let the puppy check out the area around the crate. Curious pups might even voluntarily venture inside the crate! Put a few tempting treats inside the crate, close to the door. Golden retrievers are notoriously food-oriented dogs that will most likely be enticed into the crate by those yummy treats. Never force the puppy into the crate. Chat to your pet, offer him more treats, and add a fun toy to the mix to persuade your furry friend to go into the crate. Generally, placing the crate around people will help to encourage your puppy to feel comfortable spending time inside it. Play Crate Games Crate sessions can be made more enjoyable for your puppy by incorporating some crate games. Use treats, cuddly toys, or a KONG toy stuffed with frozen peanut butter or treats to reward your puppy for entering his crate. Crate Feeding Your Golden Retriever Puppy Golden retrievers are very food-oriented, and you can use that to enhance and speed up the crate training process considerably. Allow your puppy to watch you prepare his meal, and then place the food bowl just inside the crate. Once your puppy is confidently going into the crate to get the food, move the food bowl to the back of the crate. Shut The Door By now, your Golden retriever puppy should view the crate as a safe, comfortable, fun place to be. So, try closing the crate door when your puppy is happily tucking into his food. The first time the door is closed, open it again once your pet has finished eating. At each crate training session, leave the door shut for a little longer. Step Back Away From The Crate Assuming that your crate routine is going well, your Golden retriever puppy should now associate the crate with a couple of treats, toys, games, and eating his meals. A common mistake people make is that they try to move too far away from the puppy too soon. Provided that the puppy is calm, you can now move away from the crate. If your puppy starts whinging, turn your back on your pet, and wait a few minutes until the whining stops. After ten seconds of your pet remaining calm, you can turn around and allow him to come out of the crate. Watch your puppy throughout this exercise, and let your pet out of the crate as soon as he shows signs of anxiety. Very young puppies aged up to ten weeks old will need to relieve themselves immediately after a meal. Potty Breaks When you begin your crate training puppy schedule , observe your pet closely for tell-tale signs that he needs to go potty. Generally, puppies will start whining, circling, and sniffing the ground when they need to relieve themselves. When that happens, immediately grab your puppy, and get him to his assigned toilet spot. Eight-week-old puppies typically need to go for a pee around every 30 to 60 minutes. During warm weather or after exercise, when the puppy drinks more, he might need to go more often than that. Once the puppy is older, he will be able to wait for longer between potty stops. What About Bedtime? The safest place for your puppy to spend the night is confined in his crate. Although your pup might experience a bit of separation anxiety from bedtime crating at first, you can help to mitigate that by putting the crate in your bedroom with you. Use a crate cover to create that safe, den-like space that encourages your canine companion to settle down and sleep. Sometimes, giving your Golden retriever puppy a special treat reserved for bedtime can help him understand that his crate is a comfortable space to spend the night. Expect Disturbed Nights! When your puppy is very young, you can expect to be disturbed by his cries for attention during the night. Dogs are clean animals, and they will resist soiling their sleeping area if at all possible. So, set your alarm to wake you up every couple of hours throughout the night so that you can take your puppy outside to relieve himself. Immediately Clean Up Accidents Unfortunately, dealing with potty accidents is all part and parcel of raising and training a new puppy. When that happens, never punish or scold your pup. When accidents happen around your home, use an enzyme cleaner to remove the scent of urine from your floor coverings. If your puppy has an accident in his crate, you must wash all the bedding immediately. Ensure that you have a good supply of spare bedding to grab if you need it, and clean the crate thoroughly to remove any lingering smell of urine. Golden retrievers are especially quick at remembering simple words, and these trainable dogs are typically pretty obedient. So, from the get-go, you need to begin using verbal cues. Pick short and clear words so that your puppy can easily recognize and remember them. Combine your cue words with crate training. Increase The Difficulty As crate training progresses, you can make things more challenging for your puppy. Ask your dog to stay in the crate with the door closed for longer periods, and begin to move out of sight. Just like little kids, puppies will throw tantrums during the first few days of crate training. That behavior is perfectly normal and to be expected, especially when you first close the crate door. Instead, reward calm behavior with treats verbal praise, and let your puppy come out of the crate. So, when a tantrum kicks off, simply turn your back on your furry friend, and wait until he settles down again. Consistency Is Crucial! One of the most common problems people experience when crate training their puppy is not being consistent. Yes, it can be tough when your adorable fluffy bundle is crying and whining inside his crate. Unfortunately, giving in to your fur baby when he complains simply teaches your pet that whining and other bad behavior get him what he wants, which sets your training regimen back. Playtime Is Vital A lively Golden retriever puppy bursting with energy is not likely to settle calmly in his crate. Final Thoughts I hope you enjoyed our guide to crate training a Golden retriever puppy. If you did, please remember to share it. Crates are also useful tools for potty training your puppy and preventing bad behavior, such as chewing and eating harmful substances. Always be consistent and patient when crate training your puppy; use cue words and positive reinforcement to make learning fun for both your pet and you. Did you use a crate to train your Golden retriever puppy? Tell us how you did in the comments box below. Meet our writer Alison Page Alison Page was brought up with dogs and various other pets! For a few years, Alison worked as a Practice Manager in a small animal veterinary clinic. Alison is now a full-time writer, specializing in creating articles on the care and training of dogs, cats, and fish. Leave a Comment. When should I put my dog in a crate? Choose a room that you use often. Your dog may still be able to see what activity is happening around them, feel included, and settle more easily. On the other hand, if your dog has to leave everyone and go off to a remote part of the house, they may learn to associate the crate with a more traumatic and negative experience. Consider putting the crate on the same level of the house that they will be going out to the bathroom during potty training. Where exactly in your house you choose to put the crate may vary. However, most choose out of the way of main traffic and away from any hazards such as a fireplace or an area of direct sunlight. Why use a crate? Aids in bowel and bladder control Helps prevent destructive behavior Teaches your dog to settle Gives them a familiar place when they are tired Conditions relaxed behaviors Helps them feel comfortable if they have to use a crate at daycare or boarding Important training for travel and staying in hotels How long do I leave my puppy in a crate? Crate time is mostly based on their bathroom needs. For puppies, the general rule, when they are awake, is they can stay in their crate for one hour for each month of age. When Emma came home, she was two months old, so we only kept her in the crate for two hours at a time. Allow your puppy to go to the bathroom before going in their crate, which will help ensure all their needs are met so they can rest comfortably. Likewise, take them out to potty immediately when letting them out of their crate. She never barked, whimpered, whined, or tried to execute a grand escape. I used these 5 steps for crate training! Step 1 Give your dog treats around the crate. Do not try and contain them or control where they go. Open and close the gate near them. Allow them time to sniff and explore on their own and offer yummy treats. Step 2 With the door wide open, throw a high-value treat just a few inches inside the crate and let them enter and exit on their own. Repeat a few times. The theme is to avoid picking up and placing your dog in the crate. Allow them time to go in and out as they feel ready. Keep the treats flowing! Step 3 Keep the gate wide open and throw the treats halfway in the crate and then to the back of the crate. Step 4 Throw a treat to the back of the crate. Once all four paws are in, shut the door and open it back up! Allow your dog to come out of the crate and throw a party like they just completed the most impressive trick you have ever seen. Step 5 Gradually increase the time the door is closed. Keep praising them in an upbeat, high-pitch tone, offering their favorite treats. Important Note: Do not reach into their precious space and yank them out. Keep it a positive experience by letting them come out on their own or use treats to lure them out. What about when I need to leave my dog in the crate for a longer period? Hopefully, after completing the five steps above, your dog will be more comfortable going in and out of the crate. Dogs, especially puppies or high-energy dogs, often seek something to do. So if they go in the crate and everyone leaves, you start getting the behaviors of chewing on the bed, chewing on the side of the crate, barking, and scratching at the door to get out. A solution? Give them something to do! How to Let Your Dog Out of the Crate You may have devoted a lot of time and training to getting your dog to go into their crate. Training them on coming out of the crate can be just as valuable. Try this! Wait for calm behavior before opening the door. I do not recommend: Opening the crate when your dog is scratching at the door, barking, or whining. If you let them out now, you are reinforcing that when they bark, the reward is that they get to come out. Reaching into their precious space and yanking them out. You may also be interested in… About the Author Kevin Bubolz is the founder of Golden Retriever Life, an online community with a mission to spread smiles. Read the full disclosure here. I know that, and eventually, your dog will know that, too. In this article you will learn exactly how to crate train a puppy or dog, no matter their age or level of previous training. You should read the whole guide before starting, to gain a complete understanding of the process, including the tips and troubleshooting at the end so you can find the speediest success. Why do we do this? We do this so we can use the crate as a place for short-term confinement, to keep our dogs and our belongings safe when we cannot supervise them. Then we can confine them short-term when needed, and they are happy to do so. Yes, they can even enjoy their time in the crate! In contrast: A properly crate trained dog will enjoy time in there happily and stress-free, even relishing the chance to get down to some occupational chew toy time or just to chill out and relax. Dog obedience is key to get this result! Benefits such as: Dramatically speeding up house training. Giving your dog a cozy and comfortable place to call their own where they can sleep and relax, overnight or whenever they wish. Giving you a tool to use for managing problem behaviors or to use for time outs to calm your puppy when needed. Giving you a safe way to transport your dog both by car and air if the need should arise. So they can enjoy trips away and holidays with you. Preparing your puppy for boarding at the vets, a kennel or at home to recover after medical treatment. There are many benefits to using a crate when used correctly, but they can also be misused. And there are also times when you should never crate a dog, regardless of their age or how much or little they can be trusted: Times And Ways That You Should Not Use A Crate There are a small number of dogs that suffer true anxiety and panic when placed in a crate. Under no circumstances should these dogs be crated…ever! The signs you need to look out for are: Any damage to the crate that show signs of attempting to escape. Urinating or defecating in the crate. The crate has moved at all while your dog is inside they must have made some frantic movements for this to happen. Never if your dog has sickness or diarrhea. Never when the weather is extremely hot. Never for any time longer than 5 hours. Not any time your vet prohibits it for medical reasons. Never as a way to punish your dog or for punishment. Use obedience training to correct bad behavior instead. Crating your dog for any of the reasons above is either inhumane, dangerous or purely selfish. Getting Prepared Before you can start crate training, you obviously need a crate. But you also need to make it a comfortable and happy place for your dog. Choosing A Crate Dog sleeping in crate There are many different sizes and style of dog crates available, from tiny inch crates all the way up to inch and bigger! XXL heavy duty dog crates. There are wire dog crates , plastic, fabric and even high quality wooden crates that look just like pieces of furniture. But the most important aspect of the crate you choose is its size: Too small and it would be cruel to expect your dog or puppy to spend time in there Too large and it loses the den like feeling dogs crave, not to mention they can use one end to sleep in while using the other end as a toilet, so it loses its effectiveness. For detailed instructions on measuring your dog for a crate and selecting the right size and type to suit your needs, please see my article: Choosing The Right Size And Type Of Dog Crate 2. Making The Crate Comfortable And Safe Dog In Soft Crate After choosing the right crate, you then have to make it a comfortable, safe and pleasant place for your puppy or dog to love spending time. For a detailed guide on where to place your crate and what you should put in it, you can read my article on: How to make a crate comfortable and safe for your dog. Make sure the crate is out of any direct sunlight, away from heat sources like fireplaces or radiators, and away from any possible cold drafts. Place soft, comfortable bedding inside. Place 2 or more chew toys inside to keep them occupied and develop good chew toy habits. If you have a wire crate, cover it either with a purpose bought crate cover or an old blanket or towel. Following the above 5 tips ensures the crate is a nice comfortable place for your dog. These pose a risk of choking if they happen to snag on anything, so no collars or leashes allowed. Your dog or puppy must be completely naked when crated. You must not rush through and you must make sure you are successful at each stage before you move on to the next, otherwise you could end up causing your dog or puppy to hate the crate by leaving them crated before they are ready. This unfamiliar box can be scary! The ultimate goal is for them to use it voluntarily. So the first task you have on the journey to crate training your puppy or dog is to form in their mind an association between the crate and all the things that they enjoy in life, so they see the crate as a good thing. Fail at this and you could saddle yourself with a dog who hates the crate, refuses to use it and maybe even fears it which can be a very hard thing to undo. So how do you go about achieving this? Technique 1: Magically Appearing Toys And Treats Set up the crate before you bring your dog home or if you have an existing pet, assemble the crate without them seeing so it just magically appears. Now let your dog or puppy into the room. So what should you do? Just act as you normally would, do what you would normally do. Play with your dog or puppy, or sit and watch TV, just act normal. Hopefully they will investigate this new thing in their world, enticed by the treats around and inside it, but also out of plain curiosity. Just draw no attention to the crate at all. Every dog will eventually at least eat the treats around the crate, if not the ones inside. This has the effect of the most prized things in their life being magically conjured up by the crate. Do this for a couple of days or more before you start crate training, and then occasionally for the few weeks after starting so your dog learns to love the crate and what it provides. You should find after a very short time they venture into the crate on their own just to look for some goodies, all without any encouragement from you. NOTE: Any treats you give this way have to be subtracted from their daily food portions or they will be overeating. And I say to do this just for the first few days and then only occasionally because to help house training you want your puppy eating on a schedule to promote defecating on a schedule, not eating at random times and pooping at random times. Feed these meals inside the crate. At first, place their food bowl just inside so they only have to poke their head in to feed. Then after the first couple of times, place it half way into the crate. After a couple of times of this, place it all the way at the back. You might be successful with this right away, or you may have to place it at the front for a few meals over a few days. Some dogs confidence builds quicker than others. Eventually and not before too long you should find your dog expectantly running over to and maybe even into the crate every time they see you holding their food bowl. After a few days of magic appearing treats and your dog eating dinner from the crate, basically once they are used to the crate and associate good things with it, we are ready to start crate training. When you do release your dog you do not want them bolting out and bumping into you, particularly important if you have a large dog such as a Golden Retriever that can easily bowl you over on their way past! You want them to reliably leave the crate when you ask. You can only achieve these three things if your dog understands that they must stay inside until told they can leave, or must leave when they hear the cue word. Choose whatever words you like, just be consistent. You do not want to spook your dog at this stage. Sit close to the crate armed with some high value treats, show them to your dog and then throw one inside the crate. Move away so they can easily exit and just stand patiently and quietly waiting for them to do so. Repeat this 8 to 10 times then take a couple of minutes break. Then do another set of 8 to .Yes, for real. Repeat this whole exercise a few times over the course of a day or two until your dog is comfortably, happily and reliably going in the crate when you throw in a treat. Training your dog to do this is a huge step! Make sure they really are confidently going in to get the treat before moving to the next step. And remember to use your cue words every single time so they quickly learn them. Step 3: No Treat For Free! The next step is to ask your puppy or dog into the crate before you treat them. Make them work for the treat instead of using it to lure them into the crate. To start, do 2 or 3 exercises of throwing a treat in and using the cue word as they go in to get it. When they do, give them a treat or two while you praise them profusely. Then use the cue word to leave and praise them when they do. Repeat this 8 to 10 times, take a couple of minutes break, then do another 8 to 10 before finishing up for this session. Repeat this step many times over the course of a day or two until you are certain your puppy or dog truly understands the commands and is happy to both go into and leave the crate on cue before you move to step 4. Now, many of you will have a dog at this stage that goes in, gets the treat or their toys and cannot wait to get back out again. But some will already be sitting, laying and sleeping in the crate of their own accord. Regardless though, what you want to achieve is your puppy or dog to sit and lie in the crate on cue, which is different to doing it of their own accord. Begin this just a couple of days after getting them home because they need to understand the cues outside of the crate before you can hope to have them follow the commands inside it. Other things you should have been doing before this step are: feeding your dog or puppy their main meals inside the crate occasionally leaving stuffed Kong toys in the crate this gets them used to spending time in there, usually in a sitting or laying position this will have made things easier Now, run through 2 or 3 repetitions of steps 2 and 3 before you start step 4, always remembering to use your chosen cues! Next, when your dog is inside the crate: Simply cue them to sit, praise and reward them profusely when they do. Then ask for a down and do the same. Then cue them to leave the crate before repeating the exercise. Try this 8 to 10 times before a few minutes break, then repeat for 8 to 10 times more. Repeat this whole step a few times over a day or more, but as you repeat the exercises, ask them to stay sitting or lying down for longer periods before you release them. And you should vary the duration to keep them guessing what it takes to earn a treat. Try just 1 second, then 5, then 2, then 10, then 3 and so on. Try to stretch the time out over a few practice sessions. Remember to be gentle and that your tone of voice throughout training matters. As always: Start with 2 or 3 repetitions of the easier steps first, going through steps 3 and 4 before trying to close the door. When ready: Cue your dog to go into the crate, praise and treat them, then ask for a sit, praise and treat and then slowly close the door. You ask for a sit because this position is automatically a more calm and relaxed position than standing. Continue to praise your dog and give a couple of treats through the closed door for remaining calm and sitting. Then open the door, and cue them to leave the crate. If your dog looks fearful or panicked when you close the door some will! Start by closing the door just part way for a few repetitions, then half way for a few, then most the way before finally closing it fully. This may take one training session or a few over days. Are you ready to move on? Once your dog is happy to sit a few seconds with the door closed, begin to latch it. Praise and treat for calm, then release the latch and open the door. For a training session, do 8 to 10 reps, take a few minutes break and then repeat. During each set, vary the time they have to stay calm and sitting, 3 seconds, then 10, then 4, then 15 and so on. You should aim to extend the time they stay calm and sitting with the door closed to a full minute before moving on to the next step. Again, this could take an afternoon, or it might take a few days. Go at your dogs pace and never force things. The base is serving as a staging facility for hurricane relief operations. Air Force photo by Master Sgt. Jack Braden Once your puppy or dog can sit calmly in the crate with the door closed for a full minute, the next step is to start moving away with the ultimate aim of being able to leave the room. First of all, perform a few reps of steps 4 and 5 as a warm up, remembering to always use your cues. Next, follow these steps: Cue your dog into the crate, close the door, latch it, praise and reward them and take a couple of steps backwards away from the crate but still facing it. Then return, praise and reward. Open the door and cue your dog to come out. Do this exercise 8 to 10 times, then take a few minutes break and repeat. For each repetition, mix things up: Try walking away a different distance in a different direction, but remaining in the room. First 2 steps backwards and pause 5 seconds before returning, then 4 steps to the side and a 15 second pause and so on. Work up to walking right to the exit or the wall and pausing for a full minute. Next, you will want to amp things up even more: Perform this exercise while you actively walk around the room, looking busy doing other things, but return to praise and treat your dog often. Tidy some magazines, rustle through a drawer, just look busy doing other things a few times in the house. Then, go even farther: Perform this exercise but back yourself up to the exit of the room and leave for just a couple of seconds before returning and heading to the crate to treat and praise. Do this a few times. The time this takes and the success you have will vary from puppy to puppy and dog to dog. Always stop at 10 repetitions max, and never more than two batches in quick succession followed by a big break. Otherwise your dog will get bored and the training is less effective. Now you just need to start increasing the time they are happy to spend time alone. Before you begin, something that goes a long way toward helping is to make sure your puppy or dog is well exercised before asking them into the crate. Why is that? A tired dog will be far more willing to relax and chill out for a length of time, compared to one who is full of energy and keen to play or wanting attention! After exercising them, the first step is to increase the time they are happy to spend in the crate while you are still nearby. To achieve this: Crate feeding: Feed your dog in the crate, or give them a stuffed Kong toy or good tasting bone chew toy. Hang out nearby: Ask your dog into the crate, give them their food or the toy, then close the door and take a seat nearby to read a book or a magazine. Engage occasionally: Every now and then, give them a further treat and praise, then go back to your book or magazine. Gradual build: Try to work up to a good half hour of quiet and calm in the crate while you read and they chew. Ignore them: After a couple of times like this, crate your dog or puppy with their meal or a stuffed toy and move around the room busying yourself, paying little attention to your dog. You want them to be eating their meal or chewing a toy in the locked crate while you do other things. Leave the room: After a couple of repetitions of this, repeat the exercise but move freely in and out of the room a few times, as well as occasionally sitting nearby. Disappear: Start by leaving the room for only 5 or 10 minutes, extending the time over a few sessions until you eventually achieve a full hour of alone time. As always, how long this takes will vary wildly from puppy to puppy and dog to dog. Go at their pace. It helps massively to succeed in this step if you only ever give your puppy or dog the bone chew toys or stuffed Kongs when in the crate and never outside of it. It builds excitement and anticipation, something to look forward to in the crate. Step 8: The Grand Finale! Wait for them to start chewing and then leave and come back into the room a couple of times. If they stay calm and pre-occupied with their chewing, simply leave the house. Then, do this: Go outside and walk to the bottom of your garden, just hang there for a few minutes and then go back inside and walk around your home for a couple of minutes before going to the crate and your dog. You want them to think that this is nothing, a complete non-event. And certainly do not go straight to them when you come back in. Remember: this even means nothing! From now on, practice alone time in the crate when you leave the house at least a couple of times every day, for varying lengths of time. Never make a fuss of any sort before you go, never make a fuss on your return. Over a few sessions, build up the time you are out of the house with your dog in the crate to a couple of hours as long as they are old enough to hold their bladder this long. You can now use the crate to keep your dog and your belongings safe when you cannot supervise them, and use the crate as a sleeping place for your dog at night. Always leave a few toys in there with your dog, and continue to repeat the exercise where you crate them with a stuffed Kong or chew toy if natural opportunities do not arise, just to keep them happy with the situation. If you have a dog that: Some puppies will take regular naps in the crate before you even start crate training. They might go on to show little interest or care about the door being closed. They might be super confident and happy right away with a little alone time. You might be able to crate train such a dog in just a few short days. Dogs like this can take many weeks to crate train: Some puppies may show fear of the crate and not want to go anywhere near it. Once carefully trained to go in, they might feel panic and fear when you close the door. You have to go at your own dogs pace because if you rush them you can instill dislike or even fear of the crate in their minds, and then it will take far longer than it ever should have. But many or most dogs will take to it quicker, and most puppies certainly will as they have no preconceived ideas, habits or emotions to overcome. When going through the steps above, if your dog excels at any stage you can quickly move to the next step. If they do not, if they show any fear or uncertainty, spend more time at a particular step until they are comfortable before moving on. Your dog will show you when they are ready to progress and you should go at their speed, however fast or slow that may be. They need to be able to: move around exercise their muscles enjoy some mental stimulation If they are regularly crated longer than this, behavioral problems will be the result, as well as the fact they have little in the way of a fulfilling life. In my experience this is a bit optimistic, all dogs are different and when a puppy is very young, this is certainly too long. This is with the exception of puppies from 8 to 12 weeks old who will need letting out once during the night. But after 12 weeks, they can last the whole night through. Crating your dog when you work full-time means two lots of 4 or more hours crated and this is a long time, so quality time, exercise and stimulation before and after crating is essential. Tips For Better Crate Training What follows are a few useful tips to keep in mind when crate training your puppy or dog. They will make the process easier and faster, while making sure your dog is comfortable and happy throughout the process: Always make sure you take your puppy or dog to their bathroom spot before you crate them for any length time. They will be uncomfortable and noisily complain with a full bladder…but rightfully so! Also take them the moment you let them out as they will usually be ready to go. Make sure the crate door is always open and your dog always has access to it so they can use it as and when they please. Most dogs will use it as a place to rest and this is a good thing. Always leave chew toys in the crate for your dog so there is something for them to do while crated. This will minimize boredom and teaches good habits of chewing on the right things. Continue to feed them their meals in the crate. Also, reserve special treats like bones and stuffed Kong toys for the crate only and never outside of it, so they really look forward to spending time there. Exercise your dog or puppy well before crating them for any length of time. A tired dog is one who is happy to relax and chill out. If you find your puppy nodding off and completely unable to stay awake this happens a lot! This will speed up their acceptance of the crate considerably if they snooze and find themselves waking up in there often. The worst thing you can do is force them in because chances are it will heighten their fear and make things even worse. Instead, break the task down into easier steps for your dog by employing some of the following tasks: Practice asking your dog to step in and out of cardboard boxes. First trimming the sides down to look like a small tray, then using further boxes and increasing height of the sides. Place bedding in the box and practice asking them to lay down. Some dogs may not like the roof aspect of the crate. Ask your dog to step underneath, even sit under there yourself and read a book while enticing them over for treats. Start with a big gap and a wide area covered, then lessen the gap between furniture in later training sessions to make it feel more crate like over time. If you have a plastic travel style crate airline crate then remove the top half and practice having them step in and out of the bottom half only. Start asking your dog to step into the bottom tray only. Then put on 2 of the walls for a couple of training sessions. Then three walls for a few sessions. Then the roof until finally the crate is fully assembled. Then cover the back third of the pens roof with a sheet and do the same. Then cover a half. Then remove a part of the pen to make the area smaller and ask them in to play with them. Whichever of the above you try, make sure an exit is wide open and easy for your dog to use for escape so they will feel less anxious. And take things very slowly, making sure they are visibly comfortable at any stage before taking a next step. After a few days maybe more of slowly getting them used to stepping into things that progressively get more and more crate like, you should be able to begin crate training. This type of reinforcement will not help the cries. Yes, you getting angry and telling your dog off will actually make the issue worse. This will train them to think that if they cry long and loud enough, you will eventually come and let them out. Not a good idea. Wait for 5 seconds silence before you approach, then give them a treat. You ruined it! Wait for at least 5 seconds of silence before you return, then treat them. Enough repetitions of this will teach them that silence gets rewarded and noise makes you go away. Why did they whine? You might want to go back a step or two in your crate training though. Make sure they are comfortably happy and silent in the crate, for a reasonable length of time with the door latched and you present, before you ever try to leave them alone. Young puppies cannot hold it through the night without having a potty break. But how do you know if the whines are because they need to eliminate or just crying for attention? For a puppy 8 to 9 weeks old, you will need to set an alarm to take them to potty twice during the night, at 2. For a puppy 9 to 12 weeks old, set an alarm to take them to potty half way through the night, 3. Make sure you do not feed them anything in the 3 hours before bed, take away water at least 2 hours before bed, and take them to their toilet spot to empty themselves as the very last thing you do before you go to bed. When you take them to potty, make sure you do so in silence. No playing, no words, no attention, otherwise they will learn that night-time is a time for play and attention. You obviously do not want this. They are very different things. But if when you leave your dog alone crated they show these symptoms: anxiety.

Females Who ever you choose, will love you. Here at Hillside Standard Poodles we offer both male and female Standard Poodle puppies in a variety of colors. All Poodles bought from Hillside Standard Poodles are sold with spayed or neutered contracts. You've asked many questions and seen how the puppies are raised, you've met the breeder and the parents of the puppies and you're ready to make your choice. Your pick should be based on a matching personality with the puppy in question. How does the puppy react to you and your family, and kids? The sex of the puppy should be your last consideration. Most people have a huge misconception on sexes and personalities. Most feel a female is a sweet, loving dog who is a caretaker of puppies and children. Female dogs are nice; I like my girls and I'm pretty sure they like me. They come to me and get attention, and then they move away and are content to lie on the other side of the room. Perhaps this matches your personality perfectly -- maybe you want a dog that isn't overly affectionate. Girls take training seriously, and most are very good at obedience. Females can be alpha dogs just as easily as a male can. Spayed females, of course, make a much better family pet than un-spayed females do. Boys tend to get a bad rap because, in your mind, you remember the neighbor's disgusting unaltered male dog lifting his leg on every bush in the neighborhood and doing nasty "boy" things. Male dogs that are intended to be family pets NEED to be neutered at an early age 5 months old , however waiting a year is best. When you do YOUR part, you have an absolutely wonderful family member. They usually squat to piddle, never develop any type of nasty habit and are extremely loving dogs. Where your girls will get their attention and go lie down, a boy will stay near you. He likes to be with his person, he likes to be loved on; he is "devoted" to you. Yes, he takes his training seriously. But then he likes to have FUN, he likes to play in the yard -- he doesn't like to take life too seriously all the time! So, before you choose a dog based on its sex only, consider the other elements. Are you the type of person who likes an independent dog, or one who prefers a dog that worships the ground you walk on? Of course there is the exception to every rule and the amount of time you spend with your puppy will make a huge difference in his or her personality. Our suggestion is to spend time with your potential choice at the breeder's, but don't ignore a potential 'perfect match' for you because it may not be the sex you originally sought! City skyline. At what age is a Poodle fully grown? Poodles are considered fully grown adults at two years old and tend to show emotional signs of maturity, like a calmer nature, around 18 months. At a year old, most Poodles will have reached their final height or very close to it. However, most Poodles will require a full two years to fill out their chest and reach their final weight. Image Source: Pexels How big should a 6-month-old Poodle be? A six-month-old male Poodle will weigh around 41 to 48 pounds, while a six-month-old female Poodle will weigh about 28 to 34 pounds. Both male and female Poodles at this age stand at around 18 to 22 inches tall, which for some Poodles is already their full adult height. Pro Tip: Check out this ultimate pet parent guide with 39 dog care tips on pet first aid kits, puppy-proofing practices, training, veterinary appointments, and more! How much bigger will my Poodle get? There are a few ways to assess how much bigger your Poodle will get. The first is age. If your Poodle is less than a year old, they still have significant growth left! If your Poodle is between one and two years old, they are likely still filling out a bit, but are probably at their adult height. Do they still look oversized next to their legs and body? If this is the case, they are probably still filling out as this is a classic puppy feature! A Poodle puppy will rarely grow larger than their bigger parent, so this will also give you an idea of their maximum size. What is the size of a full-grown Poodle? According to the American Kennel Club Official Poodle Standards , an adult male Poodle is 60 to 70 pounds while an adult female Poodle weighs between 40 and 50 pounds. By these standards, full-grown Poodles will be over 15 inches tall when measuring from the ground to the highest point of their shoulders while standing. Most Standard Poodles will stand between 18 and 24 inches tall. Smart lifestyle choices are essential in keeping your Poodle happy and healthy. The Veterinary Centers of America recommend a long walk, jog, or intense play to fulfill their daily exercise needs. Poodles were bred as retrievers and, as such, are keen on games involving retrieving like fetch. Many Poodles also enjoy swimming. Due to their full coats, Poodles can put on excess weight without their pet parents realizing it. Poodles are not overly prone to weight issues with a balanced diet, but their coat can disguise weight changes. Their full coats also require regular upkeep like brushing and combing every other day, professional grooming every six weeks or so, and watching for potential eye problems. Poodles are prone to weeping eyes and eye irritation from lashes or hair, so keeping their eye area free of long hair is ideal. As a purebred dog breed, Poodles are more susceptible to genetic health problems. Many of these genetic health problems can be screened for early on using DNA technology. These early screenings can help you and your veterinarian prevent and minimize health complications from these genetic diseases. A bove all else, regular veterinary care is the best way to make sure your Poodle stays healthy. Between health screenings, regular veterinary care, bloodwork, x-rays , dental cleanings , and more, your veterinarian is your best resource in caring for your precious Poodle puppy. Be aware, vet visits can quickly become expensive - especially when immediate treatment or surgery is needed for an emergency or illness. With many treatments and surgeries costing thousands of dollars, this can quickly put pet parents in a pinch should the worst happen to their pet. Poodles are larger dogs, which can also increase the price of treatment. This is where pet insurance comes in. Pet insurance reimburses you for out-of-pocket veterinary costs and provides a safety net should the worst happen to your Poodle. As purebred dogs, Poodles are more prone to genetic health problems, like bloat or hip dysplasia, which can quickly become expensive to treat. Final Considerations Poodle puppies grow into elegant, proud dogs who are true aristocrats of the dog kingdom. We know how much your Poodle pup means to you and that they deserve the best! Give yourself peace of mind today when you use Pawlicy Advisor to compare personalized pet insurance quotes from the top Poodle pet insurance companies. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. Their growth happens quickly with the correct nutrients received from the mother. Your pup will grow rapidly from this stage, gaining about 1 pound 0. Their eyes will now be fully open and also be able to hear sounds. Your puppy will weigh between 4 and 5 pounds 1. Most puppies will move on to their new homes at this age. They will receive their first vaccinations at this age, and it is a good time to have your vet give them a thorough examination to determine any issues going forward. Their bones and joints will grow and strengthen, so proper nutrition is vital for their development. By the time your puppy is three months old, it will be around 13 to 19 inches 33 to .They will be learning to explore and become active. Your Standard Poodle will weigh about 30 pounds .They will start becoming far more active and should be between 19 and 23 inches .This period is all about exploring and mischief. Both male and female puppies will stand around 18 to 22 inches .This is the full adult height for some standard-sized Poodles, and you should not expect any more significant height growth. This will range from 23 and 37 inches .Their weight will be between 45 and 70 pounds .Genetics and Common Health Problems When trying to work out how big your puppy will be as an adult dog, one of the best ways of determining this would be to look at the parent dogs. When you purchase a Poodle puppy from a breeder, you will have a chance to meet the mom and the dad. If they are on the large or small side for the breed, likely, your dog will also follow in their footsteps. If your dog contracts any common health problems that haunt this breed, his growth could also be affected. Hip dysplasia is also a common ailment in large breeds and causes significant amounts of pain and can affect growth. Bloat is another terrifying ailment for this breed that is potentially life-threatening if not caught early. It occurs in big-chested breeds where gas gets trapped in the stomach, requiring surgical intervention. Epilepsy is a hereditary ailment in Poodles and is known as Idiopathic epilepsy. Many of the above diseases can be avoided through proper nutrition and regular vet checkups. Neutering or spaying dogs too early could cause them to grow unevenly. This is because bone and joint development are affected by reproductive hormones. While Miniature and Toy dogs can be neutered at around six months, you should wait until your Standard Poodle is around one year old before the procedure is performed. At the right age, neutering or spaying your dog can have many health benefits, including reducing cancer risks, preventing aggression, and preventing unwanted puppies. Feeding Habits A balanced nutritional meal plan will ensure that your pet grows at the optimal rate, developing strong bones and joints to carry their weight. To prevent your dog from growing too quickly and to provide him with all the supplements and nutrients he needs for healthy growth, it is recommended to feed your Standard Poodle, a large-breed puppy food for at least the first year of his life. Physical Activities While Standard Poodles need plenty of exercise, be careful not to over-train your growing puppy, as their joints and limbs have not fully developed, and irreparable damage can be caused. Dogs need to be brushed and groomed regularly. Included in this regime should be teeth brushing. We know Standard Poodle dogs develop problems with their teeth. You will also need to maintain a healthy diet with plenty of exercise. Healthy Diet Large breed dogs like Standard Poodles should eat high-quality dog food crafted explicitly for them. Foods for large dogs differ from other dog foods in that they generally have higher levels of protein, fat, calcium, Vitamin D, and Phosphorus. Also read: Best Dog Food for Poodles 2. Their joints and limbs are not fully developed, and any strain could lead to a lifetime of complications for your Poodle. Standard Poodles love water, so swimming is always an excellent way to exercise. A full coat can weigh your dog down, so if your Poodle loves to swim, you might consider giving him a shorter haircut like a kennel cut or summer clip. Manage Stress To keep your puppy stress-free, expose him to as many new situations, people, and dogs as possible during his early years to become well-socialized. It can take these dogs a whole year to reach their full height and even longer to reach their fully grown weight. Trying to get your dog to grow more quickly by feeding him more or exercising him intensely to build body mass is a dangerous process that could lead to the opposite effect. Even once your dog has reached his full height at a year, it will still take him another year to fill out to his final adult size. When do Standard Poodles stop growing? At a year old, your Poodle should have reached its total height, or at the very least be very close to it. There will not be much height growth after this milestone. Your dog will start adding body mass and strengthening the joints to handle the weight. A Standard Poodle should have matured and calmed down by the month milestone; however, this depends on the owner and how they have interacted and trained him in his foundation months. An untrained Standard Poodle can keep their momentum going until the age of 4 or 5 years. Do Poodle types have different growth rates? Yes, Standard Poodles are much slower to grow than other Poodles. These dogs are not small, and their bones and joints have much more growing to do. Miniature or toy breeds will reach their adult size quicker than bigger dogs. Miniature and Toy Poodles will already look the size of an adult dog by around six months old. What if my dog is overweight or underweight? Standard Poodles are full of high energy and fast metabolism. It can be challenging to tell if your dog is overweight, mainly if he is very fluffy. You should use your hands to check your dog to see if he is overweight regularly. You should easily be able to feel his ribs under his skin. You can also cut out all treats and increase his daily exercise. Making these small lifestyle changes can quickly help your dog lose that extra weight. For Poodle breeds, underweight dogs are very common, though. You could also increase portion size or opt for high-quality food with higher fat content, although this should be done under the professional guidance of a trained veterinarian. With more information about Standard Poodle puppies, their height, and their weight now in hand, you can begin measuring your pup. The food you give your dog and his exercise regime also has a big part to play in keeping your dog healthy and growing well. Do you have a Standard Poodle at home? How big is your dog? We would love to know more about him in the comments below. Raised by a bundle of botanists, researchers, and biologists, she is passionate about things related to the animal kingdom, including, our furry friends. However, as a terrible allergy sufferer, she is limited in her pet selection and so has grown up surrounded by curly-haired Poodles. Leave a Comment. The AKC calls for Standard Poodles to be taller than 15 inches and weight pounds females or pounds males. Most adult dogs reach a height at the withers of inches. Size genetics can vary quite a bit and even within puppies of one litter there could be big differences in adult size. Of course, you should never choose a dog based on looks alone — whether those are colors like the Parti Poodle or certain size requirements. However, if you want a specifically small dog, a female is more likely to fit the bill. On the other hand, if you want a large dog, pick a male. Is a Standard Poodle a large breed dog? Yes, Standard Poodles are large dogs. Standard Poodles will require daily exercise and stimulation like every dog breed. They are very handler-focused and love to be with their people. How big is a small Standard Poodle? In reality finding a Standard Poodle who is just above this height would be highly unusual. Small females are closer to inches tall. If you are looking for a specifically small Poodle, going with a Toy or Miniature Poodle might be your best bet. Do big Standard Poodles require more care? Every dog is going to require daily care, exercise and enrichment, regardless of their size. Unleash the real potential of your companion! We will email you daily with training tips, ideas and videos. This is an introductory course into our training philosophy. You will get customized video lessons based on your training goals — and you can implement them in just 5 minutes a day. The Breed of Excellence! To produce all the colors, it takes as many Sires as it does Dams to prevent inbreeding when keeping females back to place back in the breeding program. On this page, you will find our Female Standard Poodles that help us produce the beautiful array of colors in our pups. In the beginning or before Standard Poodles were imported to the U. When American Breeders began to breed them, the solid colors were popular and they attempted with a great measure of success to breed only for solid colors, however, the multi-colors continued to crop out. When AKC picked up the breed, the standard for Dog shows only included Solid colors, however, all colors are approved for registration. We have found that these Multi-colored beauties are just as awesome in temperaments and intelligence as the Solid Colors. The only difference is color. All our puppies are clinically examined, and health guaranteed. Feel free to call us with any questions you may have. Not all of our females have puppies every year! Watch for her puppies. She comes from an outstanding, proven bloodline. This girl is a outstanding producer! Great reproducer! Easy going female! Highly Intelligent! Well balanced! Karmen is out of Freedom and of the MoBandy bloodline. Her Sire is Max. Her pups are awesome! Excellent characteristics of this proven bloodline! Annie is Just like her mom, Abby. Such a great bloodline producing excellent offspring! A great bloodline producing outstanding offspring with great temperaments! Loving, Smart and Highly Intelligent. Reba — Sister to Ace! Excellent Female with great pedigree. Producing Beautiful Pups! Nicole is a Legend here! Everybody loves her! Now Retired, but we have both her daughters and granddaughters carrying on her fame! This Parti Girl was a Super Reproducer! Mother of Edie! Super Reproducer! Everyone raves over her offspring! Produced outstanding offspring that everyone loves! Everyone raves about her puppies! Producing Outstanding Parti Pups! Everyone Loves A Jilda Pup! Well Balanced In Everyway! Great girl! Call for more information. A famous Tuxedo Parti. She produced outstanding proven bloodlines! Mother of Spirit! What a Wonderful Girl! Daughter of Starsky and Lilly! Producing Outstanding puppies! A proven producer of Excellent Phantoms! We love her! She is a well balanced top female! Super affectionate, calm and highly intelligent! Always healthy! Great reproducer. Proven bloodline! Great dispositions! Awesome proven bloodline! Nicole Bloodline! Daughter of Nikki. Proven breeder who produced wonderful calm Standard Poodle Puppies. She produced Solid and a few Phantoms great temperaments!

United States .To create value and make a difference by inspiring moments of optimism, inspiration and responsibility by providing the incredible privilege of having a German Shepherd Dog in the lives of the chosen few. With the power of the internet, you are not limited to breeders that are just local to your home. Call us today and allow us to help you find your German Shepherd dream puppy! Vertrauen German Shepherds believe that deterrence is better than confrontation any day, so we keep this in mind when choosing a pairing for our German Shepherds stud dogs and mothers. Many of our Vertrauen German Shepherd puppies have grown to become wonderful assets to the needs of humans as Autism Service dogs, PTSD service dogs, Cancer detection dogs, and explosive detection dogs. Vertrauen German Shepherd breeder Kansas City make the perfect home companion or can go on to a service career. Whatever you are looking for, we will match you with the perfect German Shepherd. We feel as though you are not only adding a new puppy to your family, you are gaining a friend with Vertrauen. Please feel free to contact us throughout the life of your puppy with milestones of growth, training accomplishments, or just share the love you have for your German Shepherd puppy. German shepherd breeder kansas city. All of these amazing GSD's arrived at MOGS with some rough edges, but have worked really hard and are ready to take the next steps in the rehab process - landing in their forever home! If you have a love for GSD's, strong canine leadership skills, experience with handling lack of confidence and poor socialization levels, and have room in your heart and home, read on and find your hidden gem today! Baron and Brandi have lived in a home prior to MOGS, but were mainly outdoor dogs, so need an owner who can be patient and teach them good indoor dog manners. Prior owners report they lived safely with young children. Brandi is the more social of the pair, and loves everyone. Baron is somewhat more shy and requires measured intros to both people and other dogs. Once Alma knows and trusts a person, she is super-loving, attention-seeking, and wants to be with them every minute that she can. She is very food motivated, really smart, and wants to please [most of the time ]. She is working on basic obedience, but like a true GSD, can be stubborn. She is housebroken, crate-trained and can be left unsupervised for brief periods of time in the home, as long as her person is home as well. Alma is a true alpha, dominant female with other dogs, and can sometimes be very intense. She can be an only-pet, but has also done with in small play groups with submissive, younger males and females. She cannot be placed with other dominant dogs, and has a small-prey drive, so no cats. She can sometimes be kennel reactive when she is crated and hassled by another dog that she doesn't like in her current foster home [dominant temperament male]. Posie is typically a gentle girl with her handlers in boarding, with a soft mouth for treats, and an affectionate, cuddly personality. Posie does have a high small prey drive, and cannot be around either small dogs or cats. She does struggle with some issues of selective reactivity, and would prefer to be in an only pet home. If he knows you he will want your attention and he will bug you until you give it to him. He wants to be a lap dog as well. Colby is a happy boy, he just wants to enjoy his home and all the thing he loves, food, his ball, his Buffalo horns, and hanging with his people. Because he is tentative with new people and dogs, he would not be a good candidate for dog parks, doggy day care, Home Depot visits or camping. Colby needs a home with no cats, but he has been in a household with a small dog and did very well.

Select Options How to treat your newborn Boxers during their first 8 weeks If you have a litter of a newborn Boxer puppies you should prepare to be close to them at least for 8 first weeks of their life. It is the crucial time when you have to be ready for any situation, as it is the time when the health of your puppy is shaped. Day 1 During this day mother-dog will feed her babies with Colostrum. This is a milky liquid that contains a lot of nutrients, providing the puppies with vital antibodies. This day can be called a " sleepy day", as the puppies will sleep almost all the time when not drinking. If the puppies' bodies are warm, they breathe naturally and make soft noises, they are full and fine. On the first day the puppies cannot eliminate waists from their organism themselves yet, so their mother will lick them to stimulate this process. Boxer puppies have their eyes still closed and it will stay this way for days. The umbilical cord still remains, as it is rather damp and not ready to fall off. Day 2 On this day your puppies can lose weight. Don't be afraid, it is absolutely normal. However, take care that the larger puppies don't push the weaker puppies off the nipple. Day 3 If you decided to dock your puppies' tails, it is the best day to do it. Consult with your vet and consider carefully your decision. It is also the day when the cord is dry enough to fall off. On this day you should remove the dewclaws, if you decided to do so. Remember, that it should be done only by your experienced veterinarian. Week 1 During this week you should weigh your puppy each day. Take a basket lined with a soft and clean towel and measure it first. Then put the puppy into the basket. Thus, you will be able to calculate accurate number. Each day your puppies must gain weight. If there is no increase, contact your vet immediately. The nails should be trimmed each day as they grow very quickly. Please, do it very carefully for not to hurt your dog. You must trim off only a small "hook" of the nail. Week 2 It is the time when your small Boxers begin to open their eyes. It is a slow process so be patient. The puppies still hold close to their mom, but they already make their attempts to communicate with you. Week 3 It is a "chatting time". Now the puppies should fully open their eyes. The ear canal is also should be fully formed so the small Boxers start hearing their voices and barking. Be ready that your little travelers will make an attempts to leave their place. Now they have everything to learn the world better! Although it is not desirable to allow them to run about the house as they can harm themselves. Connect one or more boxes together, thus, making a big "playing ground". This way, your puppies will have enough place to communicate and play with each other. And it will be a safe place! Week 4 On the 4th week you may start feeding your puppies with solid food. Make a mixture containing 14 of puppy dog food and 34 of water. Begin with small amounts. You should habituate your puppies to solid food gradually and slowly as their digestive system cannot accept it at once. You can also remove extra heating. The temperature in the room must be 72 F 23 C. Week 5 It is the time when you can give toys to your puppies. You still have to check their weight, but not necessarily each day. Normal weight should vary between 2 lbs. Gradually make the food more solid by adding more puppy dog food and less water. Mother-dog is tired and exhausted so she would like to spend less time with her children. It is a perfect time for your interaction with the puppies. They will be very happy to play with you. Week 6 On the 6th week you may introduce your puppies a new world. Be ready that your small Boxers will become more active and start eating a lot. However, it is still too early for training. It is better to involve them into outdoor walkings. Try to walk them separately and beware of other dogs. Your puppies will be really fascinated to feel the warmth of the sun and soft touch of the grass! Week 7 You Boxer puppies do not require nursing any more. It is a great time when they grew up enough to involve you in their quite active games. Outdoor walks must become a daily routine. You should also take mother-dog with you as well. She will start educating her children all necessary skills. This week is perfect to pass to the usual routine of dog feeding, grooming, exercise and playing. Week 8 During this week the puppies should have their first vaccinations. If you are not going to keep all the puppies, it is a good time to find a new home for them. Make sure that you give them to the kind and loving people, who will take care of their small Boxers. If you are going to keep all or some puppies, you can begin training them as well as falling back into your normal dog care schedule. Boxer Newborn Puppy Care Overview If you have had a litter of Boxer puppies at your home and you are in charge of taking care of a newborn Boxer puppy, much attention must be taken during the first 8 weeks. From the moment of birth until the pups are at least 2 months old, a person must be close by and ready for any situation. Each week will bring new changes and responsibilities. This is a crucial time for care that can shape the health of the dog for its lifetime. How to Know if a Boxer Puppy is Getting Enough Milk The amount of times that a newborn puppy drinks milk from its mother varies from pup to pup. The important aspect is to know if a puppy is receiving enough throughout the day. Sometimes larger newborns will push their way to Mama and smaller puppies may not be getting enough milk. Some puppies may not be strong enough to suckle from smaller nipples some will be larger than others or strong enough to suckle once other pups have done so, and as the milk supply runs lower a puppy needs to suckle harder. How do you know if a Boxer puppy is getting enough milk? It is important to weigh each puppy. This can be done with a baby scale or electronic kitchen scale. Of course, take great care when weighing them. Always use the same type of blanket or cushioning on the scale so that you always get an accurate weight and the blanket does not affect the weight Weigh each puppy 2 times per day: AM and PM Keep careful track of who is who! You can do this by using a dot of white-out fluid applied to the ear in a certain area or other gentle marking method If a puppy shows no weight gain each day, you must take steps to ensure that pup receives more nutrition If a newborn is not gaining weight: Give the larger puppies a supplement Allow the smaller puppy to drink first; the larger puppies will have more strength to suck harder to retrieve their milk If There is a Weight Loss: This can be extremely dangerous. During the first few days it will not be milk; it will be Colostrum. This is a highly nutritional fluid that gives vital antibodies to the puppy. The puppy will sleep almost all the time, when not drinking. The Boxer pup will also make soft noises. As long as the puppy's body is warm and you feel him or her breathing naturally, all should be fine. A puppy this young will not be able to eliminate on its own. The mother will lick the pup to stimulate the expulsion of bowel or urine. Do not be shocked if the dam then eats this. The newborn Boxer puppy will have its eyes closed. They will stay this way for about 10 to 15 days. The umbilical cord will still be damp and certainly not ready to fall off. Day 2 It is perfectly normal for a Boxer puppy to lose weight on its 2nd day of life. Carefully watch for any Boxer newborn that seems to be getting pushed out of the way by other pups and unable to drink from mom. If this is happening, remove the other puppies after they feed and allow the hungry puppy to nurse alone, not bothered by their brothers and sisters. Day 3 Talk to your veterinarian regarding docking the tail , if you have decided to do so. This is often done on day 3. This decision should be carefully thought about. In addition, the Boxer puppy's cord will be dry and just about ready to fall off. Dewclaws, if removed, are usually done so on this day by your dog's experienced veterinarian. Week 1 Puppies should be weighed each day. This can be done by preparing a small basket, lined with a soft and clean towel. The basket can be placed on the scale first, with the weight noted. Then, the puppy should be placed inside the basket. Subtract the weight of the basket to have the exact weight of your Boxer puppy. There should be an increase each day. If not, be sure to immediately contact your dog's veterinarian. Nails grow very quickly and should be trimmed as often as each day if needed. A clotting solution, such as Kwik Stop should be used in case the quick of the nail is cut by accident something to carefully avoid. As the pup matures, many owners find that a grinder tool works much better than a clipper. Some dogs need to learn to tolerate the noise, but once they do, grinding down nails can be fast and easy. Week 2 The eyes of the Boxer puppy may begin to open. This is a slow process in which they will open bigger and for more time each day. Puppies will still be nesting near mom. You should take a bit more time to handle the puppies. This is done to slowly allow the mother to become used to you holding them and for the puppies to begin bonding with you. Week 3 The Boxer puppy's eyes should be completely open. Ears will be open now, as well. The ear canal should be fully formed. This is a bit of a noisy time, as the Boxer puppies will begin to find their "voices" and begin to bark. A 3 week old Boxer will have an urge to leave the whelping box. They will have an instinctual urge to eliminate outside of their resting and sleeping area. One side of the box can be removed, with newspapers placed right outside. A 2nd box can be connected to the 1st whelping box. This will allow the pups to have room to romp around and play. This will also give the Boxer mom time to rest without her puppies jumping all over her. Allowing the puppies to play with each other in a safe and comfortable box is a necessary part of the first socialization they need. Week 4 When does a Boxer puppy begin eating solid food? The weaning process begins just about now, in Week 4. You may also wish to offer the very health option of homemade meals of only fresh ingredients. Start with small amounts. It will be a slow yet steady process for a puppy's digestive system to become used to solid food. Extra heating can be removed. The room should be at a comfortable 72 F .Week 5 You should begin introducing small toys to the puppy. The weight of the puppy should still be checked, this can be done every other day now. Normal weight varies very much but should fall in the range of 2 lbs. Feeding should change slightly, with more puppy food and less water. The dam may want to spend more time away from the puppies. This is where an owner must step in and have much more interaction with the puppies. While still fragile, they should be more than happy to be patted, cuddled and played with. Week 6 A Boxer puppy will be eating quite a bit of puppy dog food than before. Too young to be house trained , this may be a messy week or 2 since bowel movements will become more frequent. While it is too early to expect a puppy to be trained yet, if the weather is warm and day this is a great week to introduce a puppy to the outside world. If you are caring for more than 1 pup, take each one outside separately or 2 at the most. Always keep the Boxer on a leash and beware of any dogs in the area. Allow them to become used to what grass feels like! Allow a pup to enjoy the warmth of the sun and the refreshment of a cool breeze. Week 7 Puppies may not be nursing at all any more. They should be spending quite a bit of time with you and with the other puppies. Going outside should be a daily routine. The dam should be brought outside with the pups; she will use this time to teach them skills. This is the time to be very close to a dog's normal routine of grooming , feeding, exercise and play time. Week 8 This is the week that the puppies will receive their 1st vaccinations. If you will not be keeping the puppies, now is the time to begin the process of finding them a good home. All prospective owners should be evaluated fully. Make home visits if possible. Do not be afraid to ask many questions. If you will be keeping all or some of the puppies, now is the time to fall into normal care for your dog. Housebreaking training can begin as well as falling back into your normal schedule. See Also: Boxer puppy care - Overview of what is needed to take great care of a new Boxer puppy. Boxer dog questions and answers - Round-up of some of the most common issues and care elements with the Boxer breed.

Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Poodles often times start with fluffier hair that somewhat resembles a cotton ball and as they grow older it will become curlier. Intelligent Poodles are arguably the second smartest dog. This combined with the fact they are viewed as an allergy friendly dog with loving personalities makes them an ideal dog for cross breeding. Many of the "designer dog" breeds are crossed with poodles, including the Labradoodle. Labradoodles are a cross between the Labrador Retriever and the Poodle and are often considered to be the seventh smartest dog. As a result the Labradoodle breed is recognized as a cross between two "top ten" dog breeds and was first created to fill the need for a better service dog, and has continued to be used for this purpose even today. Health While Poodles and Labradoodles can naturally be a healthier breed than some dogs, even they are not exempt from the possibility of some diseases. That is why at Lovely Little Labradoodles we genetically test all of our dogs to assure they are free from common diseases. We also go a step farther and offer a two-year health guarantee on all of our puppies. Friendly Poodles and Labradoodles are friendly, devoted, playful and all-around good-natured pets that get along well with both people of all ages and other animals. But just like any dog the key is proper socialization. Lovely Little Labradoodles starts that process early, introducing our puppies to a variety of people and experiences to assist in providing our fur baby families with well-adjusted puppies. Activity Levels Both Poodles and Labradoodles are generally moderate to high energy dogs depending on the individual personality and age of the dog. These dogs need human interaction and stimuli to keep them busy. They are good pets for both families and individuals because they thrive off love and affection think puppy cuddle time and they adore games and activities. With basic exercise both breeds are ideal for people who live in apartments. Grooming Poodles and Labradoodles have various grooming needs depending on coat type, Lovely Little Labradoodles is here to help every family pick the right puppy for their lifestyle. We raise high-quality Mini Labradoodles as well as a few other breeds. We also have partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini labradoodle pups that meet our strict genetic criteria and testing. So we usually have a good selection of very high-quality puppies. View Our Available Puppies! F1B Mini Labradoodle Puppies are a second-generation cross or hybrid. The father is a Mini Poodle and the mother is an F1 Labradoodle. The F1B Minature Labradoodles usually have soft hair that is usually wavy or curly. Thes puppies are considered semi-hypoallergenic since they shed minimally. These puppies can be a good fit if a person that has mild pet allergies. Once F1B Mini Labradoodles reach 6 months old they require to be groomed once every 8 weeks or so to keep their fur healthy and to stop matting. Adult F1B Mini labradoodle dogs range in size from 14 inches in height and pounds in weight. The average life span is typically years of age. The F1BB puppies usually have curlier coats and will be totally hypoallergenic. Once the F1BB pup is 6 months they will need regular grooming every 6 to 8 weeks. F1BB Puppies are usually slightly smaller than F1B puppies and range from 12 inches in height and pounds in weight. Mini Labradoodles are known for their intelligence and the ability to be trained very easily. They make amazing family pets and love to participate in family activities like swimming, hiking, camping or just playing tag in the yard. This breed is also a good choice for people who live in apartments as long as they get at least minutes of exercise a day. So if you live near Knoxville Tennessee and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Labradoodle puppy that can be delivered to you then check out our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are some Mini Labradoodle pups that have been adopted. Mini Labradoodle vs Mini Sheepadoodle Comparison Two dog breeds, one purpose: to make your life a joy-filled journey powered by strong bonds, friendship, and unconditional love. Meet the Mini Labradoodle and the Mini Sheepadoodle. Two very adorable and friendly dogs with upbeat personalities, the Mini Labradoodle and Mini Sheepadoodle make the perfect addition to any lucky family. Your way of life, hobbies, and work schedule are all important factors that can help determine which of the two dog breeds is a good fit for your lifestyle.Welcoming a new puppy into your home is an exciting time filled with joy, cuddles, and a few inevitable challenges. One of the most common questions new puppy owners ask is, "When can puppies go outside? They are fun, easygoing, and gentle. Mini Labradoodles enjoy canine games like chase, fetch, and Frisbee, and thrive on cuddles and love. Energetic, friendly, and full of life, the Mini Labradoodles make wonderful jogging and hiking companions. They are known to enjoy a good swim, a long stroll, and are very fond of adventures. The Mini Labradoodle puppies are happy, energetic, and bright bundles of joy. They are loving and eager to please, love to play and cuddle, and are excellent training students. A cross between Labrador Retrievers and Mini or Toy Poodles, the Mini Labradoodle may take after one parent breed or the other in appearance or they may have their own unique look with an added bonus of a hypoallergenic coat. Welcome to Australian Heritage Labradoodles. We specialize in miniature and medium sizes in all colors, with non-shedding fleece coats. Our mission is to protect the integrity of the Australian Labradoodle breed by always upholding the value of quality over quantity! A few of our most recent puppies.We are located in Chattanooga, Tennessee. Chattanooga, Tennessee is centrally located in the heart of the Southeastern United States. We deliver to local and regional airports, and have delivery options available, if needed. We are looking for Guardian homes. Check out our guardian home program. Learn More We are looking for guardian families that live in or around Chattanooga, Tennessee. Since we do not use kennels, in order for us to grow our breeding program and ensure all of our dogs are raised as pets in a loving home, we offer a guardian home program to qualified families. We pick out the very best puppies to join our program, so our guardians will get the most desired, highest quality puppies, at a highly discounted price! The puppies will be theirs for life, and we will retain breeding rights during the timeframe allotted in the guardian home contract. You can read more about our general requirements on our Guardian Home Program page. Because we do intend to remain a small program, guardian home opportunities will be limited. We will choose our guardian homes based on qualifications and fit, not on a first come first served bases. If you are interested in learning more about our guardianship opportunities, please fill out our Guardian Home Application. Time to shop! Now you can Find a full list of recommended puppy products on our "Australian Heritage Labradoodles' favorite things" list on amazon. He had received a request from a blind woman in Hawaii whose husband was allergic to longhaired dogs. This breed has since gained worldwide popularity and remains a very sought-after breed today. This breed is the perfect mix between a Poodle and Labrador Retriever. This Labradoodle is known for having a very loving, caring, and pleasant personality. They are very smart dogs and eager to be a part of your family. They also tend to be very social and interact well children and other pets in the home. They are not aggressive dogs and have very warm and approachable demeanors. They make marvelous family pets and are known to quickly bond. Labradoodles do not shed heavy and do not require excessive brushing. Most do well with standard grooming every six to eight weeks. Making sure your Labradoodle is properly groomed will allow him to look and feel his best. Labradoodles do best with a balance of meat-based protein and micronutrients, as well as healthy carbs and fats. This breed also tends to do well being fed twice a day with meals spaced apart every twelve hours. This will help to ensure the dog is provided with the proper nutrients he needs. It is also important that his teeth get cleaned a minimum of three times a week. Failing to keep his teeth clean can contribute to health issues. Although properly cleaning his teeth will take some practice to get good at, in time, this will become easier for you and your pup. The Standard Labradoodle stands between twenty-two and twenty-four inches tall. At maturity this breed weighs between fifty and sixty-five pounds. They have an average life expectancy of twelve to fifteen years. Fact: Labradoodles are a mix between a Poodle and Labrador Retriever. Fact: This breed is considered a very smart dog who trains with ease. Fact: Labradoodles have different coat types and are not known for heavy shedding. Frequently Asked Questions 1. What are the diseases that Labradoodles are prone to? Labradoodles are prone to health issues such as hip and elbow dysplasia, epilepsy, diabetes mellitus, ear infections, and hypothyroidism. Do Labradoodles shed at all? Although Labradoodles are known as non-shedders, there are some of them who still undergo shedding, most especially the Labradors with hair coats. How should you feed your Labradoodles? But, bear in mind that however you feed your Lab, be careful not to get your Lab bloated or underfed. A Labradoodle has an average lifespan of years. Can Labs go for hunting? How big do Labs grow? The average male Lab can grow up to 22 to 24 inches while the female one can grow up to 21 to 23 inches, and both can weigh as much as 50 to 70 pounds. Is it safe to leave my Lab all alone when we are out? Labs are social dogs and they need to be around people or other dogs most of the time, hence it might not be safe to be away from your Lab for too long, to avoid behavioral problems such as depression, frustration, and unhappiness. Does gender matter when getting a Labradoodle? Not at all. Both genders of Labs make awesome family pets. You can decide to either adopt or buy any gender of your choice 9. How much do Labs puppies cost? The cost of buying Labradoodle puppies varies, depending on where you are buying from. Contact us today to learn more about the cost and availability of our Labs .When can I start training my Lab? Are you interested in purchasing a Labradoodle? Fill out the below form and we'll get back to you as soon as possible.

Tweet on Twitter An overbite might not seem like a serious condition for your dog, but severely misaligned teeth can lead to difficulty eating, gum injuries and bruising, bad breath and different types of dental problems, including tooth decay and gingivitis. Fortunately, there are ways to help fix the problem before it becomes irreversible. What Is an Overbite? An overbite is a genetic, hereditary condition where a dog's lower jaw is significantly shorter than its upper jaw. This can also be called an overshot jaw, overjet, parrot mouth, class 2 malocclusion or mandibular brachynathism, but the result is the same — the dog's teeth aren't aligning properly. In time, the teeth can become improperly locked together as the dog bites, creating even more severe crookedness as the jaw cannot grow appropriately. This problem is especially common in breeds with narrow, pointed muzzles, such as collies, shelties, dachshunds, German shepherds, Russian wolfhounds and any crossbred dogs that include these ancestries. Treating an Overbite Dental examinations for puppies are the first step toward minimizing the discomfort and effects of an overbite. Puppies can begin to show signs of an overbite as early as weeks old, and by the time a puppy is 10 months old, its jaw alignment will be permanently set and any overbite treatment will be much more challenging. This is a relatively narrow window to detect and correct overbites, but it is not impossible. Small overbites often correct themselves as the puppy matures, and brushing the dog's teeth regularly to prevent buildup can help keep the overbite from becoming more severe. If the dog is showing signs of an overbite, it is best to avoid any tug-of-war games that can put additional strain and stress on the jaw and could exacerbate the deformation. If an overbite is more severe, dental intervention may be necessary to correct the misalignment. While this is not necessary for cosmetic reasons — a small overbite may look unsightly, but does not affect the dog and invasive corrective procedures would be more stressful than beneficial — in severe cases, a veterinarian may recommend intervention. There are spacers, braces and other orthodontic accessories that can be applied to a dog's teeth to help correct an overbite. Because dogs' mouths grow more quickly than humans, these accessories may only be needed for a few weeks or months, though in extreme cases they may be necessary for up to two years. If the dog is young enough, however, tooth extraction is generally preferred to correct an overbite. Puppies have baby teeth, and if those teeth are misaligned, removing them can loosen the jaw and provide space for it to grow properly and realign itself before the adult teeth come in. Proper extraction will not harm those adult teeth, but the puppy's mouth will be tender after the procedure and because they will have fewer teeth for several weeks or months until their adult teeth have emerged, some dietary changes and softer foods may be necessary. An overbite might be disconcerting for both you and your dog, but with proper care and treatment, it can be minimized or completely corrected and your dog's dental health will be preserved. Stay Informed Sign up for exclusive offers, information and updates! Robin E. Riedinger explores the potential dangers of an overbite for your puppy. Everyone knows that puppies need vaccines to keep them healthy and protected from diseases. However, it can be easy to underestimate the benefits of thorough and regular examinations when puppies are growing into adulthood. Every breed has special characteristics that make them unique and add to their appeal and sometimes there are physical changes that need to be addressed quickly. Enzo is a short-haired Havanese and he was born with his lower jaw shorter than the upper jaw. This malocclusion is a genetic change and can be seen in a number of breeds, oftentimes collie related breeds and dachshunds. Robin Riedinger evaluated Enzo at his first visit when he was just 11 weeks of age and while the lower jaw was too short, there was no evidence of damage and no indication that this was causing a problem for Enzo. When there is abnormal occlusion of the teeth, it is important to monitor closely for trouble caused by the teeth being aligned improperly. Malocclusions can lead to gum injuries, puncturing of the hard palate, abnormal positioning of adjacent teeth, abnormal wear and bruising of the teeth, permanent damage and subsequent death of one or more teeth, and in the long run, premature loss of teeth. Some malocclusions can be severe enough to interfere with normal eating and drinking. Within three weeks, when Enzo was only 3. This is called Dental Interlock. Early intervention is critical. Here are pictures of the changes Dr. View showing the overbite — the upper jaw is significantly longer than the lower jaw. View showing the right side lower canine tooth behind the upper canine tooth. View showing the left side lower canine tooth in front of the upper canine tooth. This procedure is most effective when the Dental Interlock is discovered early and the extractions are performed quickly. In some cases, this can be as early as ten weeks of age. Riedinger consulted with a local veterinary dental specialist to confirm the treatment plan and to get advice on extracting the deciduous teeth without damaging the developing adult canines. Dental radiographs are essential to proper extraction technique and also to ensure that there are no other abnormalities below the gumline. This dental x-ray image shows the deciduous teeth, and the second row of developing adult teeth within the jaw just below the gumline. During normal growth, the body will begin to resorb the roots, making them loose, and allow them to fall out as the adult tooth begins to emerge. When we need to remove the deciduous teeth before they are loose, it can be quite tricky to remove the tooth carefully without breaking it and without injuring the adjacent teeth. Once extracted, each deciduous canine tooth was about 2 centimeters long; the roots were about 1. This is one reason why it is so important to use radiographs to evaluate teeth on a regular basis, not just in a growing puppy. Adult teeth can, and frequently do, have problems that are only visible with a radiograph. Enzo came through his procedure extremely well. He was given pain medications for comfort and had to eat canned foods and avoid chewing on his toys for the next two weeks to ensure that the gum tissue healed properly. As he continues to grow we will be monitoring how his jaw develops and Dr. Riedinger will also be watching the alignment of his adult canine teeth when they start to emerge around six months of age. Hopefully this early intervention will minimize problems for Enzo in the future. The detail information of Undershot jaw Basic Information Disease Description: A condition where the lower jaw is too long for the upper jaw. Inherit Mode: - Disease Symptom: Undershot is a class III malocclusion that is also referred to as mandibular prognathism, maxillary brachygnathism, mandibular mesioclusion, or an underbite. This malocclusion is characterized by a shorter upper jaw and a longer lower jaw, resulting in lower teeth that are in front of the upper teeth. While this condition is normal for some breeds, such as Bulldogs, in many breeds it is unusual. An undershot jaw occurs when the lower jaw grows faster than normal and becomes longer than the upper jaw, and is usually evident around 8 weeks of age in puppies. This misalignment can cause soft tissue trauma, such as to the lips. When the incisors meet instead of fitting next to each other, it is called a level bite. When the malocclusion causes the lower incisors to be placed in front of the upper incisors, it is called a reverse scissors bite. Disease Cause: The cause of overshot and undershot jaws in dogs relate to the increased or decreased rate of growth of the upper and lower jaws in relation to one another. This can occur due to a: Genetic disorder Trauma; Systemic infection ;Nutritional disorder; Endocrine disorder; Abnormal setting of puppy teeth; Early or late loss of puppy teeth. Disease Diagnose: After a quick physical exam, your vet may have to sedate your dog in order to perform a thorough oral exam. Often, the placement of the upper and lower incisors in relation to one another can determine what type of malocclusion your dog has. Your vet will note any areas of trauma due to teeth striking those areas, and any cysts, tumors, abscesses, or remaining puppy teeth that may be present. A dental X-ray can also help to assess the health of the jaws and teeth. These diagnostic methods will lead to a diagnosis of an overshot or undershot jaw in your dog. Treat Method: Treatment of a jaw misalignment will depend on the severity of the condition. If your dog has a misalignment, but can still bite and chew food without problems, no treatment may be needed. However, there are times when intervention may be needed. This may allow the jaws to continue to grow, but will not make them grow. For older dogs who are experiencing pain and trauma due to misaligned jaws and teeth, oral surgery is generally performed to extract teeth that are causing trauma, to move teeth so that they fit, or to create space for a misaligned tooth to occupy. Other therapies include crown reductions or braces. Breeder Advice: If your dog is genetically programmed to have an overshot or undershot jaw, intervention can help, but will not slow or stop the abnormal growth of either jaw. Prevent jaw misalignments in puppies by not breeding dogs who have overshot or undershot jaws. Associated Breeds.

It commonly occurs anywhere from eight weeks to six months. So, any German Shepherd parent would know that these adorable dogs have floppy ears when they are just puppies. However, stronger cartilage will be developed as you give them the proper nutrients. It might mostly occur as a response to your call or noise in the surrounding area. It can be a result of poor nutrition or slow development. Your German Shepherd needs abundant vitamin D, calcium, and protein. Lacking these nutrients in their diet will result in weak cartilage. Switch to better food or visit the vet for a checkup. They are still incredibly cute, anyway! If you want to ensure that you have a pooch with perky ears, make sure to look for parents with standing ears. Do all German Shepherd ears stand up? Even if you have already, you can know whether your pooch will have floppy or perky ears when it grows. It can compromise their health and adversely affect their growth, including strengthening the cartilage. Regular checkups and fecal exams can help prevent or abate that problem. Your vet can give your dog deworming medicines to see that your growing furry friend is free from parasites. Any traumatic injury to the ears can cause permanent damage and prevent the ears from growing strong enough to stand. It can be caused by a child pulling its ears and rough play among its littermates. Regularly monitor your pup and keep anyone from playing with its ears when they are in its developmental stage. But there are things you can do to help it get strong and healthy ears. These steps will also protect the ears from possible damage. Get high-quality food for your puppy to boost their development. Cheap foods usually have more fillers that contain negligible nutrients. Keep the puppy away and safe from other puppies that play bite with their ears. Educate your children and everyone else at home on how to handle the puppy carefully and gently. Giving your puppy chew toys will give their head, jaw, and surrounding muscles some exercise. It can lead to better ear development. Make sure to buy durable ones, as German Shepherd pups are stronger than you think! Clean their ears gently if you notice dirt. Keep your dog happy! A happy dog is a healthy dog. It will have fewer or no health problems if you keep the dog fit. Using the tape too early or during its growing stage can harm its natural development. However, the 7th to 8th month might be a little too late. But that may not be true for all, as some German Shepherds are just built differently. Their looks come second when you experience how good of a companion they can make. But the young ones carry cute floppy ears that eventually stand up. Some take longer. Remember that floppy ears do not affect their health negatively. David W. I admire German Shepherds. They are magnificent dogs! I have been dealing with dogs, namely German Shepherds, throughout my life. I have been working part-time as a dog trainer and instructor for about 5 years, dealing mainly with German Shepherds. So I know a bit about these animals. Therefore, I decided to share my knowledge and experience about this fantastic breed. If you need help with advice and care tips or want to know more about German Shepherd dogs, welcome to this blog. Aug 18, Share German Shepherds have a distinctive look that includes alert, erect ears. For most pups, the ear cartilage begins to harden around week 20, or when the pup is finished teething. At that point, it can take up to 20 weeks for the ears to stand up fully. This can vary by the individual, however. Like human ears, dog ears are made of cartilage. As they grow and gain nutrition, German Shepherds develop stronger and stronger cartilage to support those ears. Typically, puppies at weeks will have floppy ears that occasionally stand up but quickly fall back down. Around week 20, or 5 months, your pup is done teething and its ears will begin to harden and stand. Your vet may have some suggestions to help the process along. If your pup reaches 8 months and still has floppy ears, the chance of them standing on their own is slim. Some breeders try to breed for larger ears, leading to ears that are too heavy to stand up. If strong, alert ears are important to you, be sure to look for a pup with parents that have erect ears. If the ears sustain trauma during that time, it can cause permanent damage to the cartilage. If your puppy gets parasites, it can impact healthy development, which includes the hardening of its ear cartilage. Be sure to take your puppy to the vet regularly and have routine fecal exams to check for worms and other parasites. Your vet can recommend an appropriate deworming protocol for your growing puppy and treat parasites if they occur. However, if you want your puppy to have strong, alert ears, you can help the process along in a number of ways. In an effort to move ear development along, some owners will add supplements like calcium. Chew toys are also good for teething and keeping your puppy occupied. German Shepherds are strong, even as pups, so be sure to choose solid, durable chew toys that are safe and appropriate for your puppy. It should only be used as a last resort, however. If you use tape too early, it can hinder natural development. That said, if you wait until the seventh or eighth month, it may be too late to help. Glue the ends of the popsicle stick to the tape on both ears, horizontally. Once a week, remove the popsicle stick, foam, and tape. If the ears stand on their own, leave them. Related Reads:. Especially during the first six months, be extra careful not to aggressively clean their ears. They will be more prone to lesions in the ear cartilage at this time. Yet it would be understandable if you are reading this and feel dismay or even horror. How can that possibly be a good thing? But understand we are not talking about doing anything harmful or invasive. The techniques you are about to read about will not harm or hurt your German Shepherd puppy at all. They will simply support the ears to grow into the upright position without having to work so hard to get there — or stay there. You want to give your pup enough time to try to do this naturally. But you also want to intervene before the cartilage in the ears starts to harden usually around seven to eight months old , leaving the ear flaps in the wrong position. You will need the following supplies: Some type of surgical tape NOT duct tape or any super-adhesive tape. Foam roller inserts or foam pipe insulation cut to size. Two plain popsicle sticks or unsharpened pencils. Wrap the surgical tape around the outside of the ear to hold the insert in place. Be prepared for your puppy to find a way to paw off this strange contraption several times before they finally get used to it and forget about it. You want to leave this in place for a week and then remove it to check the ear position. You may notice the ears start to stand a little straighter week by week. But if you see them flop over again, you need to re-tape them until they are strong enough to stand up on their own. Ear gluing Another option you can try is puppy ear gluing. This is actually not nearly as awful as it sounds and is far easier to do than the ear taping method. Another perk of puppy ear gluing over taping is that you are not going to cut off any air circulation to the inner ear canal. The key is to pick some kind of fabric glue do NOT use super glue or super-bonding glue that may not come off. What you need to do for this method is to add a dab of glue to the outside of the inner ear flap about two-thirds of the way down from the ear tip point. Then press the two ear flaps together for 30 seconds to allow the glue to set. Wherever possible, if you have multiple dogs in your household, try to keep your German Shepherd puppy from playing rough games with the other dogs. Rowdy playtime can easily cause the ears to separate. The glue will wear off on its own after a while and you can observe if the ears are able to remain upright and erect when this occurs. If you need to, keep reapplying the glue until the ears are strong and stable to remain in the correct position without glue. It may take a few weeks or longer for this to occur. Do not worry if the ears are not in a perfect position. As long as they stay upright, the inner muscles and tissues will naturally self-correct over time. Surgery Certain situations may even require surgical implants, like when ear cartilage damage occurs. Massage the Ears Massaging the ears helps by increasing blood flow to the ears, helping your form strong ear: Muscles Cartilage Chew Toys Chew toys are not only great for keeping your pup occupied, but they can also be great sources of collagen. This will help build strong ear cartilage capable of holding the ears in the upright position. Chew toys also work the ear muscles. This will strengthen the surrounding tissues. This is especially true for dogs prone to health issues, like German Shepherds. Foods rich in nutrients like calcium and glucosamine will help your dog form strong and healthy ears. These nutrients are vital for developing sturdy ear cartilage. Stimulation Dogs communicate a lot with their ears. Just think of German Shepherds that are alert and focused on something, like an odd noise they heard outside. Chances are, their ears will be standing erectly. Stimulation like this encourages the use of the ear muscles. There are two areas where you will definitely want to pay closer attention. Bath time and during playtime with other dogs. Keeping water out of the ears will reduce infections and head shaking. Using a headband is an easy way to do this, and can also prevent injuries when playing with other dogs. What causes German Shepherds to have floppy ears? The most common ones include breeding issues, teething, cartilage development issues, trauma, and poor nutrition or hygiene. Breeding Pointy German Shepherd ears are among the top distinct features of the breed. Unfortunately, this can sometimes lead to improper breeding practices. Teething Floppy ears are a common occurrence when the dog is teething. Developing cartilage German Shepherd puppies are born with floppy ears. As their bodies develop, their ear cartilage and muscles also develop up to the point that they are able to support the weight of the ears, keeping them upright. German Shepherd ears typically start to perk up when the dog is about 6 to 10 weeks old. They can also sometimes flop back down while the dog is teething only to stand up again. Trauma Trauma is a common reason for floppy ears in German Shepherds. Physical trauma caused by an accident or injury to the ears can cause one or both of them to drop. If you suspect trauma, visit your vet to address any wounds and prevent infection. However, their ears need to be kept clean in order to prevent infections that could cause their ears to drop. Dogs not getting enough calcium and vitamin D during puppyhood may have trouble keeping their ears up as their skeletal support structure is not developed properly. They should be well-aligned, symmetrical namely just as wide as they are tall , and carried upright. However, not all dogs will have perfectly standard ears and some may have ears that are too large, too small, too high, too low, or just ears that point in the wrong direction. In fact, there are at least 12 different German Shepherd ear shapes , each with their own distinct characteristics. German Shepherd ears will usually stand up at around 4 months of age. But this can happen as early as the 1-month mark, or as late as the 6-month mark when teething finishes. But more than anything, they tell you how the dog is feeling at any given time. The ears really are the window to the soul for not just GSDs, but all dogs. During this time, more calcium is being directed to the growing teeth, and away from the ear cartilage. When teething is over, and more calcium can be directed back to the ears, they will most likely stand back up again. This is especially true if your pup has sustained an ear injury in the past, and broke the ear cartilage as a result. German Shepherd puppies are especially prone to this during the first 6 to 8 months, since their ears are still developing. These injuries can occur during rowdy play with other dogs and people, or from excessive scratching. This will help their ears develop faster and stronger, and will help prevent ear injuries in the future. But in most cases, if you act fast enough, even the floppiest German Shepherd ears are capable of being corrected. Ear development can vary from puppy to puppy. If they stand up when the puppy is scared or excited or when they bark, you can expect to see fully erect years by the time they are six months old. Will my German Shepherd mix ears stand up? Depending on the genes they inherited, your German Shepherd mix may have erect ears or not. You can support their ear development by giving them chew toys, massaging the base of their ears, and giving them calcium and vitamin D supplements. The ear flap is the outermost ear and is often called the pinna plural is pinnae. A dog has two pinna — one for each ear. Each pinna can work independently of the other, which is part of what gives dogs such keen hearing. This is the same reason all German Shepherd puppies are born with their ears down and floppy. It takes time for the cartilage to form, thicken and then harden into the characteristic erect ear position of the German Shepherd. The ears might pop up as early as four weeks old only to flop back down around four months old. Not only is the cartilage in the outer ears still forming and hardening, but the many muscles, tendons, ligaments, and tissues that help the ears move and function are still getting coordinated as well. This is why it is wise not to get concerned about ear position or stability until after your German Shepherd puppy has finished teething. There is just too much growing going on to expect your little puppy to look like a full-grown adult dog yet. This video gives you some unique tips to help their ears get stronger and stand up without human assistance like some of the tips you read about in this article. I get a lot of emails about taping German Shepherd puppy ears. The majority of these emails come from people who are jumping the gun and worrying too much. By that, I mean their pups are 3 or 4 months old and they are starting to panic because their puppy's ears are not standing. I tell these people that they need patience, they need to wait until their pup has finished teething. I caution these people not to jump the gun and tape the dog's ears too early or in the wrong way. I know people who have screwed their dog's ears up for life by doing this. I have had puppy customers who go ballistic on me and panic. So I issue a word of caution here. With that said, the other side of the spectrum of taping ears is something that many people do not take seriously until it's too late. When ears are taped at 7 and 8 months, there is very little chance of it working. This is an unfortunate fact of life. German Shepherd puppy ears can come up between 8 weeks and 6 months. If they are not up when the dog is through teething this varies from dog to dog but in general between 16 weeks and 20 weeks of age , I tell my puppy customers to get very interested in their ears. While it's not time to panic, it is time to sit up and take notice. The first thing to do is make sure that your puppy is in good health. This means no intestinal parasites. Take a stool sample to your vet to have it analyzed. It's also important to make sure the pup is getting good quality food. We feed and recommend a raw diet but if you do feed a commercial diet, I strongly recommend researching all the options available and feeding the highest-quality food you can afford. View our list of all-natural kibble alternatives. In fact, a lot of times, a pup will have both ears up and all of a sudden, they will come back down when the pup starts to teeth. Many owners panic when this happens. But not to worry, I have never seen a pup whose ears did not go back up when this happens. If a pup does not have his ears up by 5 months, I strongly recommend that you get involved with taping your dog's ears. Use the thin white surgical tape the kind that's paper-thin and tears easily. The 3M Micropore tape, 2" wide, works well. I like to use women's hair rollers. Take the plastic out of them and just use the foam. Wrap the ear around the foam and tape them into a tight roll. In a vertical position. Take a popsicle stick and attach it to the top part of both ears. In a horizontal position. The pup is going to tear the tape or stick off the ears several times. The key is to continue to re-tape the ears. Sooner or later, the pup will forget the tape and ignore it. About once a week, take the tape off and see if the ears will stand on their own. Continue to re-tape until the ears stand. If the ears are not up by 7 or 8 months, they are not going to come up. The ears should look like this once taped. The same dog with ears now up. I have seen ears that did not stand, which in my opinion would have stood had they been taped. So this process is not something to take lightly. I also need to say that many ears will be a little weak right after taping but with time, they will strengthen. So when an ear does not stand perfectly after taping don't panic. Just have patience and see what happens. You will really not have an idea exactly what you have until the pup is 12 months old. When ears do not stand, there are ear implants that can be surgically added. I have no experience with this and do not know anything about them. If you are unlucky enough to have a dog whose ears will not stand, I would point you toward a vet that has some experience in this area. I don't think it's something that normal small animal vets know how to do well. In my opinion, too young to tape. The material to use to tape German Shepherd Ears The pup with its ears taped I prefer taping German Shepherd Dogs ears after the dog has finished teething. This usually means the dog is older than 4 - 6 months. Maybe waiting another month would have been a better idea for this puppy.