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Rottweiler mixed with Poodle Poodle Poodles come in three size varieties: Standards at the shoulder should be more than 15 inches tall; miniatures should be 15 inches or less; toys should not be more than 10 inches tall. All three types have the same structure and proportions. Origin of the breed is still debated, with a significant controversy whether the puddle comes from Germany as a water dog or from the French Barbet. Ranked second most intelligent dog breed just behind the Border Collie, the poodle is talented in many dog sports and activities, including agility, obedience, herding tracking, circus performers, and support dogs. Poodles took top honours in many shows of conformation. If they are not physically and mentally stimulated, bored poodles can become destructive. But active owners who can meet the needs of the Poodle will find a loving, smart, trainable and loyal companion to the family. The Rottweiler The RottweilerIt is a domestic dog breed, considered to be medium to large or large. In German, the dogs are also called Rottweiler Metzgerhund. It means the dogs of Rottweiler butchers since their primary use was to store livestock and to sell carts laden with butchered food. Now also Rottweilers are used as search and rescue dogs, guard dogs, and police dogs. They have a very intimidating appearance for Rottweilers. They are tall and have an attractive short hair coat. These canines are predominantly black hair in most instances. Brown and white accents, though, are quite popular. These have long floppy ears, big heads, and a wide jaw as well. Such medium-sized dogs are well-built and sturdy with a slightly rounded head, floppy ears, small, oval-shaped eyes, a black nose, and a flat muzzle. The gentle and cheerful breed is known to engage in several activities like protecting, agility and obedience, and is renowned for its diverse talents. Although the breed is often considered to be a guard dog, it originated as a herding breed, bringing cattle to the market. The Rottweiler began to lose popularity when locomotives became the preferred way to move animals. Nevertheless, like police, military, and guard dogs, their protective instincts quickly made them famous again. Features of Rottles Temperament and Personality The Rottle Rottweiler mixed with poodle shows a lot of loyalty and devotion to the members of his family, being very protective of them. This breed requires a lot of outdoor activities with the instincts of a working and hunting dog running in its DNA. The calm, playful and affectionate disposition makes it a perfect companion for both adults and children alike. It displays a cold and cautious nature when encountering strangers, often warning the owners in the presence of the intruder by letting out a bark. Exercise Because the Rottle poodle mixed with Rottweilers is high in energy, enough outdoor activities such as a long walk or running games will be required. Indeed, gaining weight is likely to be quite easy, so adequate physical exercise helps to keep it physically and mentally fit. Grooming Although the Rottweiler mixed with poodle it is a minimum shedder, it is crucial to brush those with a single coat frequently. That is thick and curly like that of a poodle to stop the shed hair from being caught in the curls. Bathe your dog regularly and, from time to time, wash your ears and eyes to prevent infection. Ears will also require regular cleaning to avoid wax accumulation that can lead to a painful disease of the eye. Toenails may need clipping to keep up with their oral health if they overgrow, teeth brushing two or three times a week. Rottle can be groomed appropriately at home or by the family. Health Conditions The Rottweiler Poodle mix aka Rottie poo is a safe breed with no known genetic disorders. It is likely to inherit some of the diseases that their parents have experienced, such as hip dysplasia, diabetes, hypothyroidism, patellar luxation, and volvulus gastric dilation. The Rottie Poo has a possible lifetime of 8 to 12 years, but an average of about ten years appears to be close to the middle. Primary health conditions can shorten the lifespan of an individual dog. Although here at Mississippi Rottweilers we try to breed the top German and European bloodlines in the world there is always a slight chance especially if the new owner neglects basic health rules that your puppy could one day get Hip dysplasia. We recommend that you feed your new puppy a balanced healthy puppy food and keep the dog a safe weight. Doing this will help prevent dysplasia in your Rottweiler Occasional tests. Life Span Did You Know? They are also sometimes called a Rottle. Rottie-Poos are intelligent, powerful, and loyal dogs that are devoted to their families and are protective of them. Rottles are also energetic, loving, and playful. Although they are not recognized by the American Kennel Club, this mix is recognized by other notable dog organizations. Rottie-Poos make great family companions and tend to have a sweet nature. As long as they have been properly socialized, they are well-mannered and get along well with children, other dogs, and other pets. Because of their protective nature, they can remain initially wary of strangers. They can also be prone to barking. So, you will want to start to train your dog to stop barking early on to keep it from becoming a nuisance behavior. A Rottle is a moderately adaptable dog breed. They tend to do better in homes with fenced yards where they can run. In some cases, they can adapt to apartment living. But, their large size and exercise needs can make that difficult. They do well in most climates, but are sensitive to the extremes and particularly sensitive to heat. Rottie-Poos also do not like to be left alone for long periods of time as they bond closely with their families and also get bored easily. Are mixed-breed dogs healthier than purebred dogs? They can be at times, but it is definitely not a guarantee. A mixed-breed dog could inherit none of the health conditions common to their parent breeds. At the same time, they could also inherit all of them or any combination of them. Reputable breeders will screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues on to puppies. So, make sure you are asking them about the health and genetic history of both of the parents. As a large, barrel-chested dog breed, the Rottie-Poo, like their parents, are at risk for developing bloat. Bloat in dogs can sometimes just be gas, but it could also end up in gastric torsion where the stomach flips. Rottles are highly trainable dogs. They are intelligent and eager to please, which means they pick up on things quickly. They do require a confident owner who can clearly and consistently communicate boundaries and expectations during training. This can sometimes be a challenge for first-time dog owners, so puppy training classes are recommended. These classes are a good idea anyway because they reinforce training, offer opportunities for socialization, and also strengthen the bond you have with your puppy. They could inherit similar to one of their parents or a combination of both. If they end up with a Rottweiler coat, they will shed a bit year-round, need weekly brushing, and bathed occasionally. Daily brushing is required to remove tangles and prevent mats and grooming is required every weeks. If they end up with a combination coat, you may get some shedding here and there. Depending on the length of their coat and the curl, you may need to brush them every day or you might be able to get away with brushing them a couple of times a week. They may also need grooming every weeks or so. When it comes to dental care for dogs , daily brushing or use of an enzyme toothpaste is ideal for helping to prevent painful dental diseases later in life. Rottie-Poos can range from a moderate to high energy level. This means they require daily walks plus some playtime and extra activity to be happy and healthy. With a working dog background, they also need a job to do. Generally, they will be up for more activity if you are. Also, Rottles are athletic dogs. So, once puppies finish growing and their bones are done developing, you can try a bunch of different activities to see what you and your Rottle like the most. A fully-grown Rottie-Poo usually stands inches tall and weighs pounds. A Rottie-Poo generally lives for years. Featured Rottie-Poo Article. Because the Rottweiler parent is big, muscular, and courageous, many people assume that the Rottle is also self-assured, ferocious, aloof, aggressive, and confident. However, the Poodle genes also impart a sweet softness to the Rottle, making it one of the most popular hybrid dog breeds today. Do you want to know more about the Roodle and whether it is a good fit for your household? Then read on, we have all the information you need. What Two Breeds Make a Rottle? The Rottle is a beautiful and wonderful hybrid dog obtained by breeding a Standard or Miniature Poodle with a Rottweiler. Also known as Roodle, Rottiedoodle, or Rottie-Poo, Rottles combine the loyal, affectionate, and calm nature of Rottweilers with the intelligence of a Poodle. Rottweilers date back to the Roman Empire. Today, they are primarily known for their guarding skills but originally, they were bred to be drover dogs to accompany cattle and keep a watch on the livestock. Some experts believe that it is from Germany while others think it might have originated in France. Today, there is little doubt that the breed is one of the smartest and most trainable dog breeds in the world. Origins of The Rotti-Poo No one can pinpoint the exact origins of the Roodle hybrid dog, although, we can safely assume that it is a relatively new designer dog breed. The concept of designer dogs first came into existence during the s. One of the first crossbreeds — a Labradoodle — was developed in the late s and became immensely popular due to its high trainability and hypoallergenic fur. By the mids, people were looking for even more variety in Doodle breeds designer dogs having one Poodle parent. One such mix was the Rottle. Rottles do not have fixed standards as far as their physical attributes are concerned. Naturally, you could have many variations in the breeding programs: crossing a purebred Rottweiler with a purebred Mini or Standard Poodle, crossing a Rottle back to a Poodle, or breeding two Rottles, and so on. As a result, a Rottle puppy could reach a height of anywhere between 10 and 27 inches 25 to .Some Rottiepoos develop the muscular structure of the Rottweiler parent but others might be leaner like the Poodle parent. Just as there are variations in the height and weight of a Rottle, there can be many coat variations in Rottiepoos. Your Roodle puppy could develop a straight and medium-length coat like the Rottweiler parent or a curly, tight, or wavy hypoallergenic coat like the Poodle. Coat colours commonly seen in the Rottle are brown, black, phantom and tan, red, grey, white, and blue. Some Rottiepoos also develop the rust markings seen in Rottweilers known as phantom colouring. For a Roodle to inherit the tan points of the Rottweiler, the poodle parents must also carry to phantom colouring. Is a Rottle Hypoallergenic? Rottles may or may not be hypoallergenic. The best Roodle breeders will DNA test their breeding dogs to determine the coat traits they carry. Through DNA testing it is possible to only breed with poodle parents who carry two furnishing genes, no improper coat or shedding genes. This would make the resulting puppies very low to non-shedding. The chances of getting a hypoallergenic Rottle will increase if a breeder develops puppies by crossing a Rottle back to a Poodle. This is because there will be a larger Poodle gene pool to consider. This is due to the pet dander that causes allergy in the first place. Do Rottles Need Grooming? Every dog needs grooming. If your pet takes after its Poodle parent, it may even need special haircuts every 6 weeks or so and regular combing to prevent matting. Temperament of Rottles Rottles are protective, loyal, sweet, loving, and faithful dogs. They are a bundle of energy, especially when they are young — so do watch out, they tend to be very mischievous! Even if your Roodle is muscular, it should not be aggressive. Sure, you might want your Rottle dog to guard your property, but aggressive behaviour like biting and snarling warrants contacting a dog behaviourist to help train your dog. Well-bred Roodles are generally sweet-natured dogs with exceptional trainability, solid handler focus, and biddable, social temperament. They are perfect for families with slightly older children and anyone who needs a companion guard dog. Therefore, it is very important to buy your Rottle puppy from a reputable breeder. Good breeders will use only dogs with sound temperaments in their breeding programs. You can also ask to meet the dam and sire prior to buying the puppy. That way, you can ensure that the Rottweiler and Poodle parents or Rottle parents in the case of F2 Roodles are of sound and sociable temperaments as well. Rottiepoos need plenty of exercise and mental stimulation. Without these, your Rottie-Poo could misbehave including displaying destructive tendencies. You can always divide this into two or three shorter walks. Roodles can be good family dogs when they are well trained and socialised with kids from a young age. Standard-size Rottie-poos those from a Standard Poodle parent can be large, strong dogs and could unintentionally knock over small children during play. Are Rottles Good Guard Dogs? Some Rottles inherit the traits of a Rottweiler that make it a good guard dog. A successful guard dog needs to listen well and think fast. It should also be medium to large sized since small Roodles may not seem intimidating to intruders. Ideally, guard Rottles should have a lot of energy. Some dog handlers believe that female Rottles make better guard dogs due to their maternal instincts. Male Rottie-Poos, on the other hand, might be better off watching over the property as it is in their nature to be possessive about their territory. How Much Does a Roodle Cost? Some breeders may even charge more, depending on the efforts they have put into the breeding program. It is very important to know if you can afford a Rottle financially before bringing one home. If you want to save some money, you could consider adopting a Rottle. Contact animal rescue homes to see if they have a Roodle available. What to Feed a Rottle? Feed your Rottle a high-quality dog food containing nutrients that promote musculoskeletal health. This is especially necessary for large-sized Roodles as they are prone to musculoskeletal issues more than smaller dogs. If your Rottle is of a smaller size, then feed it a premium grain-free kibble that is appropriate for its small jaws. Some Roodles are known to have sensitive digestion, in which case, you may want to want to consult with a vet nutritionist about the right dog food to feed. Most dog owners prefer feeding dry dog food or kibble to their dogs. This is because of its convenience and longer shelf life. Wet or canned food is also a good choice owing to its higher moisture content. BARF or raw diet is another good option for Roodles. The raw meaty bone component of raw dog feeding will keep your Rottie-poo stimulated, content and their teeth sparkly clean. However, you must always consult a vet nutritionist before making any drastic dietary changes. Health Issues in Rottles Roodles from the best breeders are generally quite healthy. However, from time to time, health issues like hip and elbow dysplasia are known to crop up in the breed. Dysplasia is a congenital condition and can be prevented through good breeding practices. Larger Roodles could also develop issues like Osteochondritis dissecans OD and heart issues. With proper diet and overall care, Rottles could live for almost years. The Roodle is a fairly rare designer dog breed in Australia. Subscribe for poodle mix breed information and exclusive offers on the best products for your pup! Leave this field empty if you're human: Share this.

It depends, according to experts who are familiar with the German shepherd's puppy for sale near me. There may be a better solution in a couple more significant queries. What qualities should a dog have? What location are you taking your dog to? How much money and time can you dedicate to a dog? How do you like to live? A puppy is frequently chosen by a person because they find it attractive and cute. They may have seen the breed on television or in a film. Later, they discover that their tiny pup has grown to be an adult weighing 60 to 80 pounds with a lot of energy and a persistent need to play. The truth is that not all larger breeds adapt well to cramped quarters or relaxed households. The dog, its training, and its role all have an impact on how successfully it adapts to its new environment. Asking yourself questions about your lifestyle, the size of your living space, and the amount of time you are willing to spend with your dog is the first step in coming up with an answer. We have the best puppy german shepherds for sale near me who were all bred to be athletic and labour-intensive. As a result, you should anticipate that the German Shepherd Dog will be quite energetic and have access to outside activities. The German Shepherd Dog was created with a special work ethic that appealed to both the public and governments. Let's start with an awareness of some history and background regarding buying german shepherd puppies in order to completely comprehend the breed and its work ethic. It's easier to understand many of these questions if you have some breed knowledge. Work Ethic: a German Shepherd Dog-Specific Value A strong focus has always been placed on the distinctive personality, trainability, and protective instincts present in these herding dogs. Their dependability and unique herding characteristics became renowned. The breed started to be employed for numerous purposes over time. Morris Frank, a blind man, pioneered the use of German Shepherd Dogs as guide dogs for the blind when he brought "Buddy" with him when he returned from Switzerland in .The breed would quickly come to be associated with services for people with many different disabilities, including programs for the blind. German Shepherd Dogs are at the top of all lists due to their intelligence, trainability, and eagerness to work. Some breeders started their own lines based more on temperament than physical appearance and conformation. It didn't take long for breeding programs across America to start selectively breeding with service dog programs in mind. The German Shepherd Dog is a hard worker, which also makes it a devoted family pet and guardian, as history and years of experience have shown. German Shepherd Owners of dogs should be ready for an active dog who requires work. Even though your GSD will only be a pet, they were bred to work, so they will need a way to channel their enthusiasm and drive. Remember that your dog will require daily, intense physical and mental activity on your part. Have you had the time and energy to socialise and teach your GSD properly? Do you have a reliable source of income in case of health issues? Do you have sufficient room for this huge breed to thrive? Before purchasing a German Shepherd Dog, ask yourself these questions. The popularity of the black german shepherd puppy for sale in the fields of service work, dog sports, media, and law enforcement have influenced public perceptions of this adaptable breed. Find a trustworthy breeder like us if you are prepared to own a GSD. Your breeder should ask you questions about your lifestyle and answer your queries about the breed. If both you and the breeder are sure the German Shepherd Dog is perfect for you, enjoy an action-packed life with your new best friend! Quick Links. Playfulness Watchdog Ability The German Shepherd Dog is a natural protector and so adaptable and intelligent that they have performed about every job known to dogs. If he had opposable thumbs, he would be unstoppable. Intelligent and obedient, purebred German Shepherd puppies are more than devoted pets - they are lifelong companions. Pure-breed black German shepherd puppies have the right temperament to make engaging family pets. Leave them alone or confined. These pups will grow mischievous and become high-strung. As the name implies, they originated in Germany in the late s. As part of the Herding Group, German Shepherds were used for livestock, herding, and guarding sheep. Back then, GSDs were not considered pets or companions but servants of farmers. Although German Shepherds weren't considered household pets, their owners did provide proper food, protection, and shelter. In the early s, a German cavalry officer named Captain Max Von Stephanitz made it his mission to create an ideal German herder. He co-founded the world's first club devoted to German Shepherds. Von spent 35 years promoting and refining the wonderful breed. People finally noticed how strong, smart, and obedient German Shepherds are. So now the military employs them as working dogs. Their intelligence, strength, speed, obedience, agility, and keen sense of smell make them perfect for the job. German Shepherds are also very versatile and make great companions. Their impressive and lovable personalities soon drew the attention of other countries. German Shepherd dog was brought to the United States in the early s, and American breeders began to develop their own lines of the breed. The American Kennel Club recognized the German Shepherd in , and the species has been one of the most popular dog breeds in the United States ever since. Today, GSDs are not only considered one of the most favorite household pets. The versatility and outstanding characteristics make German Shepherds beautiful pets, companions, and protectors. Due to the breed's reputation for being loyal, courageous, and easy to train, German Shepherds are used as police or military dogs. Personality Know the personality and temperament of your German Shepherd Dog German Shepherds are well-known for their smartness, confidence, intelligence, loyalty, and courageous personalities. As household pets, German Shepherd dogs get along with their owners and other members of the family. However, they do not get along with strangers easily, but with time, they warm up to anyone who tries to be friendly with them. The German Shepherd dog breed is distinguished for courage, loyalty, and the ability to maintain training. Because German Shepherds have strong guardian instincts, they tend to be loyal and protective of their owners and children. Given their strong guardian instincts, inadequate training and poor socialization can make them aggressive toward strangers. Their over-protective and aggressive behaviors can put any owner at risk. Therefore, GSDs should be carefully socialized with proper training from a very young age. The best thing about GSDs is that they are intelligent. German Shepherd dogs are usually active and like to be occupied with an activity. They do well with people who allow them to stay active. They need an ample amount of exercise daily to retain their activeness. They should be continually exposed to supervision during the training period. Most importantly, your German Shepherd should not be confined to a kennel or backyard alone, as GSDs like to be around their loved ones. Keeping them tied up alone will make them lonely and aggressive. A German Shepherd dog should be purchased from a good and reputed breeder. We do not hand over any puppy or dog without having them vet-checked. Health Health is wealth, even for your German Shepherd dog. As a dog lover, when you welcome a German Shepherd puppy into your family, they become an integral part of your life. Besides training your dog, it is best to focus on your pet's wellness. You must do everything you need to optimize your pet's health and happiness. Most German Shepherds are usually healthy dogs if purchased from a good breeder. A responsible breeder will screen breeding stock to check on health conditions such as elbow dysplasia, canine hip dysplasia, degenerative myelopathy, etc. The German Shepherd Dog has an average lifespan of 9 to 13 years. Male, Adult German Shepherd weighs around lbs. Female, Adult German Shepherd weighs around lbs. They can run 30 mph Maximum Running. Moreover, German Shepherds are prone to experience problems like bloat, skin allergies, gastric torsion, and abdomen swelling. German Shepherds experience these conditions. German Shepherds must be taken to the vet, like most other dogs, for routine health checkups. A regular checkup allows you to track your pet's health condition. Owners should be aware of all the GSDs' health-related symptoms to take care of them by taking their dogs to the vet when any symptom occurs. Besides, if you want to buy a healthy pet, you must contact a good breeder. We do everything a good breeder would do to deliver a healthy puppy to a customer. We also discuss health problems in the genetics of a puppy or dog. Grooming The importance of grooming your German Shepherd dog The adorable appearance of the German Shepherd dog is known to all. They are very adorable and majestic to look at. GSDs usually shed twice a year. Proper grooming helps in controlling shedding and keeps the coat nice. They only need a quick brushing a few times a week. A thorough brush helps to remove loose hairs from their coat and keep the fur nice and shiny. During the shedding time, frequent brushing is required to prevent the mess caused by heavy shedding. Giving the occasional bath should suffice to help them clean and smell nice. Your dog can end up hurting you unintentionally if the nails are too long. Invest in quality dog grooming products to ensure proper and safe grooming. Thus, do not forget to groom your precious German Shepherd dog. Finding How to find the right German Shepherd Breeders? The German Shepherd is one of the most popular dog breeds in the U. S and all over the world. GSDs have love and affection towards their owners, whether a puppy, a young dog, or an adult dog. Find and choose a good breeder to find the right German Shepherd puppy. Finding a good breeder is the key if you want a purebred and healthy German Shepherd puppy or dog. You need a good and reputed breeder to find the right puppy or dog for your family. Most importantly, puppies and dogs sold by breeders must be AKC-registered, which means that they follow the rules and regulations established by the AKC. We care more about placing the puppies in the right homes than making big bucks. We are happy to share any information you need about a puppy. We welcome any questions about a puppy with a big smile. The price is determined by several factors, including but not limited to the following: The breeder's location Show Record How many puppies can a German shepherd have? A German shepherd can have six to eight puppies. Larger litter are usually born to dogs that are bred early and often. The mother's milk production is also stimulated by the hormone prolactin, which is secreted in large amounts after mating. When do German shepherd puppies' ears stand up? Some puppies' ears stand up as early as 5 or 6 weeks old, but others don't have completely erect ears until they're a few months old. As long as the puppy's ears start to stand up by about 8 or 9 weeks old, there's no need to worry. If the puppy's ears haven't begun to stand up by then, you should take it to the vet to see if there's a problem. Contact us before the puppies get sold.

English bulldogs barking may look really adorable and full of vigor. Barking is one way for dogs to express themselves aside from wagging their tail, running around, or making playful bites. As an owner, I love the occasional bark of my English bulldog due to its deep baritone sound. But like any music, sometimes the noise can become to much and cause anxiety. It is best for everything to have its balance and that is no different from a barking dog. Occasional barking implies that your pet is doing well. Why does my English bulldog bark so much? Excessive barking is how an English bulldog communicates and indicates that it wants something. Barking can occur from fright, anxiety, as a warning, sadness, or excitement. Barking is healthy for your bulldog when it is done for the right reasons. It is important to understand why a bulldog is barking to correct the wrong behavior and support the good barking behavior. Do Barks Have Different Meanings? Is it just a sound produced by dogs in their vocal cords? Does it have a deeper meaning? You need to know the answers to these questions to gain a fundamental understanding of why your pet is barking uncontrollably. As I said earlier for dogs, barking is a form of communication, and since they use it to express themselves, barking my not be that simple as you think. A study published in the Trends Cognitive Science Journal asserts that the bark of domesticated dogs holds a deeper meaning. Barking may indicate that a dog is upset, hungry, angry, lonely, and many others. Dogs are highly sociable and barking is a way for them to connect with others. Find Out Now! Isolation barks are characterized by large intervals while play barks occur in clusters. In summary, before telling your English bulldog to shut up you might want to know the loudness of its barking. Resonant deep barking may indicate that your pet is sensing a stranger prowling within the vicinity of your house. On the other hand, a loud high pitched sound done may indicate that your pet is lonely or is overly excited. Some Probable Reasons English bulldog barking, which may happen during the daytime, nighttime, or from day to night, may be caused by environmental, emotional, or physical reasons which I will briefly discuss here. This means that your pet loves to socialize a lot. For your furry companion, regular playtime, and petting with its owner is a must. Without doing these things, your English bulldog gets bored easily. For your pet, one of the ways to solve this is to grab your attention and it will do so by barking a lot. Aside from boredom, frustration is another reason why your pet is barking so much. Instances that make your pet feel like this are the arrival of a newborn or the adoption of a new pet. Feels the Need to Move Around Your English bulldog barking like crazy might also be caused by its need to move around. I need to go out to see how my friend, Larry, is doing! Dogs have this uncanny ability to sense that something terrible is about to come such as the upcoming occurrence of natural calamities or the presence of unwanted strangers within the vicinity of your house. At night, if ever your English bulldog wakes you up because of its numerous barking, try to check the windows, doors and other parts of your house to see if something is wrong before scolding your pet. If your pet is one of them, then it might be barking a lot because it needs a new diet plan. Experiencing a Health Condition that Gives it Discomfort Your English bulldog might be barking so much because of a health condition that makes it uncomfortable. One good example of this is eczema. When left untreated, this condition will not only make your English bulldog bark a lot but smell bad as well. There are simple ways that you can do to stop your English bulldog from barking so much. Doing the things that I will mention here will probably help you. Putting your pet on a leash and allowing it to see the outside will surely do the trick and will tire them out. For a frustrated English bulldog, help it to socialize with the newborn baby or newly adopted pet. When the weather is fine, lock the gates firmly and let your pet play outside. Even better try to put a miniature obstacle course on your front yard or backyard so that your English bulldog can exercise itself. Professional trainers know a few tricks that will help your pet fight its urge of creating so much noise. Aside from this, your pet will also get to socialize with other dogs. During the day, try to check if kids are teasing your dog or are attempting to trespass your property. After doing so, pet your English bulldog for a while so that it can sleep peacefully. If you happen to have a French Bulldog and need more tips, we have an article specifically for our Frenchie friends. Can English Bulldogs Howl? Almost all dog owners want their pets to howl. Personally, this is one skill that my English bulldog failed to master. Whenever it attempts to do this, my pet scratches its throat and ends up coughing. If you think about it, howling is one skill that almost all dogs inherently have. The chances of your pet learning how to do it depend on your efforts. So how do you teach your pet to howl? Simple, you can start howling yourself and hope that your English bulldog will imitate you. Another method is to play the sound of a howling wolf on your stereo and let your pet be part of the fun. You can view how this is done firsthand by clicking here. This is very different from the howl of huskies, german shepherds, etc. Final Thoughts Hearing your dog bark occasionally is fine. English bulldogs can howl too! However, their howl sounds very deep and is different from those made by wolves, German shepherds, huskies, and many others. Lastly, try the tips mentioned here to stop your English bulldog from barking so much. Post Views: 1, What do I do? Despite the endearingly gloomy mug that most English Bulldogs have, they are one of the most amiable of all breeds since they tend to assert dominance over other dogs. The fact about English Bulldogs is that they can live for years and they are short and have a fine coat which is easy to gloom and maintains. Although English Bulldogs do not bark a lot, sometimes they have a behavioral problem of barking without reason. We had moderate success with this inexpensive and easy to adopt clicker technique. One should identify why they are barking and train them in the correct way from the very beginning. The natural way for every dog to communicate is through barking and one should understand why your bulldog is barking. Pay attention to your dog to distinguish what kind of bark it is and stop giving your dog what it wants whenever it barks rather take some time to train your dog. This is the collar that we used to train our Bulldog, Lucy. If your dog is barking stop yelling rather than discipline it in the right way. English bulldogs always feed off your reaction and this may be the only way your pet knows how to behave. Yelling at your dog can make them get the wrong opinion of your command and think that there is a reason to bark. If at all you lose your patience and yell at your dog, the dog may prolong its barking since it has been commanded to expect any kind of negative response. The correct way to respond to your dog whenever they bark is to ignore or seek a better attention behavior and this could not only stop them from barking but also cure your pet from getting startled from situations. Stop waiting for a habit to form when your English bulldog begins to bark excessively this in the end will be a difficult task to stop it from excessive bark. When you notice that your pet barks excessively pick a command word and stick to it from the start. This is the easiest way to curb your pet for it will figure out the problem and discipline it appropriately and this will allow your household to have peace. How To Stop Your Bulldog Barking To Perceived Intruders Barking to intruders does not only require visual confirmation because some dogs engage in alarm barking because of simply hearing voices on the sidewalk. Alarm barking is any way of barking to perceived intruders and is normally accompanied by one to two inches of each bark. The following are ways to stop your bulldog from barking to perceived intruders; Teach your bulldog the quiet command. This training will require patience and consistency since it consumes time but when applied correctly it will make even the most territorial dogs behave better. When your bulldog starts engaging in alarm barking wait for three to four barks and then pay attention to it by distracting it from a perceived intruder. Then wait until it stops barking to the perceived intruder and once it stops say the word quiet in a low calm voice and repeat the process until it associates the word quiet itself. This will become a habit to your bulldog and once it does it more occasionally you can start giving a quiet command without showing your dog any treat. After it complies you can start giving your pet treat for more training sessions and it will finally learn to be quiet on command without a treat. Also, train your dog to apply the quiet command to real-world situations. This will make your dog learn the quiet command and be applying them to real scenarios. How To Control And Correct Bulldog Barking Problem It is important to praise and reward your English bulldog when it finally stops barking and congratulates its silence. This reward should be given as quickly as possible for this will vary the amount a dog must remain quiet without barking for no reason. The best way to train your bulldog from undesired behavior is by replacing the behavior with an alternative behavior that will allow your dog from realizing that it is good to engage in a more desirable behavior. Also once your bulldog stops barking it is important to continue training it for this will cover all aspects of attention-seeking barking. This will make your bulldog eventually learn to wait patiently regardless of whether it wants to play or eat. Conclusion The overall way to reduce your bulldog from barking a lot is by meeting its needs, for example, if your bulldog is hungry it will bark. No training or behavior techniques will satisfy the need for food or comfort. Always make sure your bulldog has plenty of food and water to drink and access it inside your home for comfort. Also, be exercising your bulldog and give medical attention. Bulldogs may sometimes bark because of being injured or sick and one should seek medical attention to it.

There are so many breeds to choose from; how do you know which one is right for you and your family? Boxers are a medium-sized dog that were originally bred to be guard dogs. Nowadays though, they make ideal family pets as long as you can keep up with all that energy! Generally, boxers have three main colors; white, fawn or brindle. Brindle coloring is a combination of two colors that express themselves as a pattern in the fur. Usually one of the colors is beige or brown and the pattern can be long stripes along the back or shorter, more disturbed stripes. Brindle Boxers are one of the most popular coloring there are, however, the colors and patterns of brindle Boxers can vary dramatically. There is, however, a rarer reverse brindle coloring with a dark background and lighter markings. It is sometimes referred to as an inverted brindle boxer. Sealed Brindle Boxer Now this is the rarest coloring for a Boxer out of them all. They appear black because their black stripes are sealed shut so you can see hardly any fawn at all. Some people try to sell these Boxers as having a black coat but that is not true. It is impossible for Boxers to have a true black coat; those that appear black are actually brindle with very thick, close set black stripes. Flashy Brindle Boxer Boxers often have a white underbelly and white feet. Sometimes the markings go up the neck and onto the face too. This is known as flash. However, white Boxers are not. Brindle Boxers are not rare, they are one of the three standard coloring for the Boxer breed. Certain types of markings and coloring are more rare than others though, like the sealed brindle. Brindle Boxers are prone to certain health problems Like all purebred dogs, there are some health conditions that Boxers are more prone to. To help reduce the risk of your puppy developing these conditions you should always buy from an AKC compliant breeder. They have to adhere to much higher standards than most and will undergo the necessary tests of the parent dogs to help reduce the chances of medical issues in the future. AKC registered breeders will usually cost more than private breeders but they come with more peace of mind about the genetics and the treatment of the parent dogs. Also, there are some pet insurance companies that focus on providing the best insurance for a specific breed, meaning they can cater to the likely health problems of that breed of dog. Alternatively, you could look at the American Boxer Club website. They have a specific page all about breeder referrals. There are even some organizations that specifically re-home Boxers! Wherever you go looking, make sure you have a list of questions you want to ask the breeder about how the dogs have been cared for, tests they may have had etc. If you need a hand coming up with all the appropriate questions you should check out this resource. How do you know if a Boxer is the right dog breed for your lifestyle and situation? Well, there are some common characteristics that most Boxers share which can help you get an idea of what they might be like. This is largely due to the fact that for many years, a white coat was a death sentence for a boxer puppy, and breeders routinely killed their white puppies. However, white boxers are wonderful dogs, as beautiful and fun as their fawn and brindle counterparts! The vast majority of them suffer no disability as a result of their coloration, and those that do can still enjoy a long and happy life with just a little accommodation. Below you will find answers to some frequently asked questions about white and deaf boxers. White Boxers Q: Are white boxers rare? A: White boxers are not rare. Q: Are white boxers a recent development in the breed? A: White boxers have been around as long as boxers have, and though it is not considered appropriate to breed them today, they were even included in early German boxer breeding programs. A: No. Albinos completely lack pigment in their skin, hair, or eyes. White boxers have mostly unpigmented fur, but they typically have dark noses, dark eyes, and patches of pigmented skin under their fur. White boxers are not the result of any genetic birth defect; they are genetically normal dogs who have white fur. Q: Are white boxers deaf? A: White boxers are more likely to be born deaf than are fawn or brindle boxers, but even still, the majority of white boxers can hear. There are no definitive figures regarding the incidence of deafness in white boxers. Q: Do white boxers have special health considerations? A: Some people claim that white boxers have a higher risk of developing cancer than do fawn or brindle boxers, but this has never been proven to be true. White boxers, do, however, sunburn more easily, and sun exposure can contribute to skin cancer. Using doggie sunscreen, putting a t-shirt on your white boxer, and, of course, limiting sun exposure during the midday can help reduce their risk of sunburn. Q: Do white boxers behave differently than colored boxers? A: White boxers are exactly the same in temperament as their fawn and brindle siblings. Q: Can white boxers be registered with the AKC? A: While the AKC does not recognize the use of white boxers for breeding, they do offer an American Kennel Club Limited Registration and will assign the dog an AKC number for use in performance events, such as obedience and agility. Any puppies produced by a dog with a limited registration will be denied registration by the AKC. Deafness in Boxers Q: What causes deafness in boxers? A: While many dogs acquire some degree of hearing loss with age, congenital deafness in boxers is usually caused by the lack of pigmented skin in the inner ear, resulting in the atrophy of nerve endings within a few weeks of birth. Congenital deafness in white boxers is not associated with any other health issues. Q: Are deaf boxers trainable? A: Yes, deaf boxers are trainable. Dogs born deaf also are very attuned to other stimuli around them, like vibrations in the floor and changes of light, and you can take advantage of these stimuli for training purposes. Deaf dogs are as trainable as any other, but they may require that you learn new techniques and skills. Q: Can I take my deaf dog on off-leash walks? A: As a general rule, deaf boxers should never be allowed off-leash in unenclosed areas. Since they will not hear you if you call them, you must remain in physical control of your deaf dog anytime there is a danger of him running off or getting into trouble. Q: Are deaf boxers aggressive? A: Deaf boxers, like hearing boxers, have individual personalities, and they are not more likely to be aggressive than any other dog. Some people worry that deaf boxers will react aggressively if they are startled by touch. However, deaf dogs are accustomed to their disability, and just because it is easier to surprise a deaf dog does not mean the dog will respond inappropriately when startled. Additionally, deaf dogs can and should be desensitized to touch using positive reinforcement. Deaf dogs adapt well to their disability and do not necessarily require another dog whose lead they can follow. Oftentimes, any new dog hearing or deaf will follow the lead of a pre-existing dog hearing or deaf in a household.

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How to Train a week-old Labrador Puppy? Training older dogs is quite a difficult or nearly impossible task. The age of 2 months or 8 weeks is the best time for your pup to begin its training. This is because your pup has grown enough to be independent and can also understand the cues of the owner. How to Train an 8-week-old Labrador Puppy? You must keep things simple in the beginning because the pups are already learning the behavior of their owners. Below are some basic things that you can teach to your 2-month-old Labrador puppy. Follow Me — This command can be taught by walking a few steps here and there while holding a treat. This will allow you to go out to different places or visit friends comfortably with your dog. Deject Biting — You will use 2 treats to train your dog. You can rarely use a simple punishment, like ignoring, if the biting was hard. At this age, it is assumed that a Labrador puppy is already familiar with some basic things. Hence, you can teach your canine friend some simple commands. Heal — As of now, your dog should be habitual to follow you. In this command, you will use a dog leash and grab it in your left hand. Recall — This command is used to recall a pup to repeat the previously performed training. In this command, we can use a whistle, clapping, or any other sound as a cue. More Socialization — Make your Lab more comfortable in crowded places. Also, visit friends frequently so that your pooch can become comfortable around strange people. Then, add more twists by taking an object and using the touch command so that the pup touches the target. At this age, a Lab is considered mature enough to respond to some positioning commands as well as verbal instructions. Sit and Stay — Simply use a treat while your pup is in a standing position and move it towards the floor. For teaching this command, hold the treat for some time before feeding after your pooch has sat on the ground. Fetch — A 4-month-old Labrador puppy knows how to get to a target. If the puppy goes to the object and brings it back, a treat is offered. It is recommended to use the favorite toy of your pup as the target. Stand — Take a treat and move it up while the pup is in a sitting position. For this purpose, you can use a recall command with some specific sound for it. Strengthen Earlier Trainings — You should focus on all the previous learning firmly. Spend some quality time with your puppy to make this into a strong relationship. At this age, you can start teaching your dog some advanced commands. Leave it — It is used when the dog is biting down on something and not leaving it. You can also use this command to keep your pooch safe from potential troubles. Once some sort of discipline is implemented, you can remove the treats from the training and use appreciation. Wait — This is used when your dog is running continuously or doing rigorous exercise. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Print Raising a retriever puppy like the pros Your Labrador puppy can seem small and fragile during those first few weeks home from the breeder. Labrador puppies will learn quickly about acceptable and unacceptable behavior those first few weeks, if you, the owner, are willing to set and enforce boundaries. Here is the training you should be working on with your week-old Labrador puppy. About this series of posts This is post three of a step-by-step training and socialization program for Labrador puppies. If you read our first post , you know that this series follows our training of Bubba, a female chocolate lab puppy. Bubba is already sold as one of our Custom Trained Retrievers, so it is our responsibility to raise and train her until she has progressed to the level of training the owner has requested. In this case, Bubba will be with us for almost a year and a half. Training and socialization for week-old Labrador puppy — week three home Your week-old puppy has been with your family for approximately 3 weeks now. This week you should start noticing some bigger changes with your puppy. Here are some of the changes I notice with Bubba. First, she is growing fast! Bubba is almost ready for a new collar already. I have loosened her current collar twice, and there is no more room to expand it. She is also learning a lot. Bubba is also becoming more personable. She likes and has more interest in people now and wants to be petted and scratched more often. Training equipment for Lab puppy We added a couple new training tools this week. But a thicker check cord will also work. We use this check cord for longer outside marks and assistant-marks which I will discuss more in a bit. Puppy sized canvas or light-weight plastic bumpers In week two, we introduced formal retrieving in a hallway in the house. In week three, we move outside with retrieving and introduce assistant throws, so it is helpful to have a few more bumpers. Puppy training that will continue Much of the training I have been working on for the past two weeks with Bubba will continue into this week and beyond. Dog training is not something that has a definitive end-date. For instance, you teach your puppy to SIT and then you must work and practice that command daily or weekly, often for months before the response to the command is solid. But even once the response is solid, you cannot completely stop training. If you stop training, even an older dog, the dog can lose the previous training. So, realize that you are never done working with your dog, especially on obedience training. Some areas that we will continue training Bubba on are: Crate training Bubba is doing great at crate training. She rarely makes any noise while in her crate and settles down quickly after being put into her crate. In the upcoming weeks, we will work towards getting Bubba to enter her crate on command. Looking for more information on crate training? Housebreaking Housebreaking Bubba is going well. We have caught her in a few accidents, but she already seems to understand that she is not supposed to go potty inside. This does not mean that she is done housebreaking. We still expect accidents and will for a few months, so we watch her carefully while she is running around in the house. We also praise her for behaviors like going to the door and tapping the door or whining at the door. These behaviors are rewarded with us taking her outside to go potty. When she goes potty outside, we praise her and then take her right back in. We want her to start understanding that these cue behaviors will get her out to go potty and that is all. Looking for more information on housebreaking? But we will also add a few new ones. We will use this while teaching our puppy the SIT command. It also will be used going forward, anytime we are done working on structured obedience work. We will release the dog from formal work with the OKAY command. But we also use it to mean go to a certain place, such as on a mat or stand. Or, when we want her to go into her crate or kennel. This is an associative command, meaning the puppy will learn the command through our repetition of the word as we tie it to a behavior. But over time, she will make the association and will perform it on her own. This is very important especially if you ever plan on doing more advanced training with your retriever. You will use whatever your dogs name is. A few commands that we will continue to work on this week We will continue to work on obedience commands this week and in the weeks to come. Each week we will expect a little more and better compliance and performance to the command. She is sitting when I put the leash and chain collar on her and when I am taking it off. This week we also added SIT before eating. We only make her SIT for a few seconds; we are working on control. She does not SIT on her own yet, but she will be doing that within a week or so I would guess. Right now, I grab her collar and say SIT. In week three, I have a slightly higher expectation. On walks, I make her walk right beside me for a minute or two using the HEEL command before releasing her and letting her run back and forth a bit. This tells me that she understands the command. Then release her. If every time your puppy comes to you, you put her away or take something away from her, soon your puppy will not want to come to you. You must work hard to make coming to you a good experience for your puppy. So, call her, praise her when she comes and release. Remember: Never use a HERE command if you are not in the position of being able to enforce the command. Make every effort to socialize your puppy You should continue to take steps to socialize your week-old puppy. Anything you can think of. The more things and situations you expose your puppy to, the better your puppy will be equipped to adjust and learn in the future. Learn more about socialization. Hand throws with a puppy bumper you are throwing out a bumper done outside will carry a lot more distraction than retrieves in a hallway. Just pick up the bumper and try again tomorrow. When retrieving outside, make sure you have a long foot rope attached to your puppy. Never try to do retrieves outside without a rope. You will have problems and encourage bad behaviors. You must have a way to get the puppy to come back to you, otherwise you should not be doing retrieves outside. Once your puppy is doing well retrieving outside, you are ready to introduce assistant marks. Introduction to assistant marks The most important thing we worked on with Bubba this week is assistant marks. Assistant marks are retrieves where someone else is throwing the bumper, not you. This teaches your puppy to watch out in the field for a mark. It is very rare that a duck will come from behind you, fly over your head and you shoot it. The ducks and pheasants will be falling in front of you, so the dog must learn to look out and watch for the mark. We start assistant marks on very short grass with white plugs so that the puppy can clearly see the item on the ground. We hold the puppy in a SIT position facing a thrower who is about 20 feet from you. When your puppy picks up the bumper, immediately start calling her back to you. Remember, you should have the foot check cord on her so you can pull the puppy in if needed. Then, take the bumper from her, throw it behind you, make your puppy sit facing the thrower again and repeat. Only do retrieves and then call it a day. Soon your puppy will learn this game and love it. They will start facing the thrower on their own and sitting and waiting for a mark. Final thoughts on training for your week-old Labrador puppy week-old puppies are so eager to learn, so be sure and take advantage of this enthusiasm to teach new concepts and enforce previous ones. Continue to teach your puppy to handle more and more pressure and correction while maintaining a good attitude. Lastly, assistant marks are a big deal. Once a dog learns this part of the game, you can work to increase the distance and complexity of the marks. If you are struggling or need additional help with your new puppy, you can email me ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time, happy retrieving. You should take your puppy outdoors and let him exercise his socialization potential at a young age. Visiting friends and family is one way to go about it. You can also spot a dog park and carry him there. Remember that your pet is still learning to follow directions and walk with you. You cannot expect him to cover long distances. The best way to avoid this is to take them far enough from the house and ensure they have a positive outside experience. It is worth noting that you should do this as often as you can, preferably daily. Start Potty Training It would be best to start potty training your Lab puppy the first day you bring him home. Start by showing your pup where you want him to potty, such as a sectioned-off area of your yard or garden. A good idea is to cordon off a small area and add some bark chippings. Next, you need a potty training schedule such as first thing in the morning, after mealtimes and play, and hourly for young pups. Many owners use dog crates to help with house training. I have a step-by-step guide on Labrador puppy crate training where you can learn tons more. Discourage Biting If you follow my blog, you know I am against punishment-oriented training. If you train your dog young enough to avoid harsh bites, you will not need punishment-driven discipline strategies. In any case, using physical force or yelling at your pup will only instill fear and distrust and can cause aggression in your dog. You can also check out my article, How to Discipline a Labrador , for greater insight into this topic. Instead, you can wait until your Labrador bites during a positive activity and then discontinue it. It will anchor the consequence better. Follow up using positive reinforcement by rewarding the correct behavior with a treat. Your Labrador will quickly learn that displaying good behavior reaps nice things. Puppies need to learn their bite inhibition soft-mouth by continuing the excellent work their mother and siblings taught them. Learn Bite Inhibition Training! Instill Patience You must use your best judgment when training your dog to be patient. Generally speaking, your Labrador will be mature enough to learn self-control by the tenth week. You can use a clicker or a whistle to teach your puppy to assume the natural heel position. Chances are, at first, your Labrador will try to change his pace to be behind you because of the force of habit. Walking in areas familiar to your dog will eliminate this problem. While you previously trained him to assume a heel position, you can also teach him these techniques. You may notice that your puppy can tell your words apart by the thirteenth week. So by the time he is four months old, you can use the position cues and positive reinforcement to get your dog to follow. These included whistling, clapping, or saying a specific word to indicate that your Labrador is doing a good job, typically followed by a well-deserved treat. Now is the time to see whether the anchors work! Where you previously whistled when your Lab ran towards you, now you must whistle, so he begins his run. This is the start of his Labrador recall training. Teaching good recall is an ongoing process. My dog was around 12 months old before seeing a noticeable improvement in her recall. Please avoid forcing the dog, as that only introduces confusion. Build Comfort With Crowds — Work on Socialization You have trained your Labrador to acknowledge close friends and family in the past few weeks. While this enables the puppy to be more social when you have visitors, a grown dog must learn to walk outdoors without acting out. This transition must be gradual, and try to keep experiences positive. Whether it is a cuddle, a pat, attention, or something tasty, you must teach your pup target training , for example, to touch a target with a specific part of his body. Remember that your Lab may end up biting or clawing to communicate if you do not teach him more acceptable communication methods. Here, I recommend teaching your Labrador to touch your hand with his nose. Ultimately, this is an excellent replacement for bites! Hand targeting is fun to teach, helps your pup build trust, and gets him using his brain! You have laid a strong foundation of discipline and positive reinforcement, making it easier to train your dog to follow more complex commands. In these weeks, you will introduce him to assuming different positions, obeying your commands as he moves away from you, and reacting to more nuanced anchors. Remember, 4-month-old Labrador puppies have a short attention span, so avoid long training sessions. Teach the Sit and Stay Teaching your Lab to sit and stay is a useful command for him to learn. Train Your Dog to Fetch If you have taken your Labrador to public parks and he has seen other dogs play fetch, it will be easier to teach him to retrieve whatever you throw. Your Labrador may not bring the toy back to you for a second round, but he will soon get the idea of retrieving it. You can gradually turn it into a game of fetch over the next few weeks and reward your doggo with high-value training treats. Continue Potty Training In the fourth month of Labrador training, you will continue potty training with a degree of independence. Continue with a good schedule and sync your walks with his natural cycle to align with the times he needs to go. You can use it to control your Labrador and later to test his ability to execute a command off-leash. A harness is also a good idea and is used for outdoor training and walks. Many owners will opt for a rear-attaching harness. Related: Harness vs. Collar for Lab Puppy: Which is Best? How to Train a 5-Month-Old Lab Puppy A five-month-old Labrador puppy is ready to be tested for his general obedience and the ability to deal with distractions, whether other dogs, people, or other animals such as squirrels or birds. Earlier, I mentioned that you could not expect an eight-week-old puppy to delay gratification. Your puppy can deal with distractions at five months old if you introduce them slowly. You must be prepared for your dog to run ahead of you now! However, suppose you have developed a solid relationship with your pup and worked on his training. In that case, he will stay within a reasonable distance, remaining by your side and showing loyalty. Once your Lab puppy has reached his 6-month milestone, it also marks the point where you introduce him to advanced obedience training. The good news is that all the training you have previously given will make it easier for your dog to follow your lead. Conclude Potty Training Your dog has had months to learn how to communicate his need to go potty. He has also likely refined the patience to hold it instead of relieving himself on the floor. Therefore, you can communicate your disappointment with your body language if your dog makes a mess. Avoid physical punishment and even verbal chastising as it impacts your dog negatively. All dogs can still have the odd accident up to 12 months old. Moreover, you must be prepared for your dog to relieve himself indoors if he is excited or frightened, known as either excitement or submissive urination. Increase Exercise Now that your Lab puppy is six months old, you can increase his exercise to thirty minutes twice daily. Energy levels, especially for larger breed dogs, escalate during this time. While the average exercise for a pup before this is generally five minutes of exercise per month of age, twice a day, a six-month-old Labrador can be out for one hour if you split his walks into thirty minutes a day. To train your 6-month-old Lab puppy, start with two commands with the most practical use. From six months onwards, until your Labrador is a well-trained adult, you can teach the following commands or tricks in any order. How to Train a 7-Month-Old Labrador As your Lab progresses to seven months old, a lot of the previous training needs to be kept consistent as you gradually teach him to comprehend more commands. Maybe there is a trespasser, and you want your dog to scare them away. You will need to continue training your dog to hold things or release them on command, but you can also proceed to add distance and even more background distractions. Ironically, you need to teach him to bark on command before learning to be silent on cue. Over this month, he will learn to associate the respective commands with barking and silence. This is quite tricky, but your Lab will eventually get there if you practice and stay consistent. The eighth month is ideal for training your Lab to go to different places upon hearing the command word. Either way, do not overload him with place commands, and stick to no more than two per month. Or you can use the ninth month to teach a cool party trick! After a week, you can remove the treat and teach your Lab to follow your finger. Of course, you will still need to reward him after he follows the command. By the third week, you can cue your doggo to spin and see if he does so without your finger guiding him in a circular motion. It might take an extra week or two, but I recommend this as an addition in the ninth month because it allows you to continue training your pet to learn previous commands better. You can teach him to go to different places, hold or release objects, and fetch toys. You can now progress this further and teach him to roll over on command. Your 1-year-old Labrador only learns to comprehend more at the same pace as he has since the 6-month mark. You should also audit previously taught commands and see any weak associations you can reinforce. How to Train an Month-Old Labrador You will not have to alter your training regimen dramatically if you have trained your Labrador properly from eight weeks onward. If anything, this is the period where you customize his training to your convenience. Now is when your dog must learn to be compatible with your life. From the month mark onwards, you must train your dog to be harmonious with modern adult life within reason. It is sad to see dog owners having to give away their pets because of behavior issues. Such things are avoidable if you train your dog correctly and sufficiently exercise him. It would be best if you simply established authority by having a positive yet commanding presence. Once your dog acknowledges your authority and sees you as a guide, you can merely treat him as a six-month-old, albeit on an accelerated schedule, and train him accordingly. Your job becomes even easier once you have a workable training schedule and stick to your routine. This month-by-month Labrador puppy training schedule will help you successfully train your doggo and turn him into the beloved companion you always desired. Good luck with your training! Related Posts You May Like:. Check Price on Amazon 6. Make Commands Only Once When it comes to training, what you give is what you get. This is known as command nagging. Teach your pup to heed a command at its first mention. If an order is not executed the first time, show your Lab what you want them to do and make the command again. Repeat that until they learn to obey the first time the command is made. Discipline at the Precise Moment of the Unwanted Behavior Timing is crucial when disciplining your 8-week-old Labrador pup. Dogs will typically forget an experience in 2 minutes. However, they can recall your training commands through associative memory. Once your pup has corrected his unwanted behavior with the desired behavior, reward him with a tasty treat and lots of praise. To learn more about how to discipline your dog, check out my top article, How to Discipline a Labrador: What Not to Do! It can also cause aggression in dogs , as found in this year-long study conducted by the University of Pennsylvania. Using physical punishment such as hitting, kicking, or grabbing the jowls and shaking, is simply animal abuse. Other unacceptable methods are physically forcing the dog down onto its side or back, growling at your dog, withdrawing food, using a shock collar, or tying it for hours. Wean Your Puppy off Training Treats Your Labrador needs to learn that skills and commands are not learned or obeyed for the sole motive of a treat. For this reason, it is important to wean your puppy off treats when he has repeatedly performed the behavior and completely mastered it in different locations and with various distractions. Nonetheless, your Labrador puppy is still a dog in training, and you still need to tell him that he has done the right thing. The rule of thumb is that they are trained young when it comes to dog training. You should train Labrador puppies as soon as you bring them home, typically around 8 weeks of age. The American Kennel Club AKC indicates that the first key milestone when training a Lab pup is 8 weeks, as soon as they have left their mother. It is a crucial time to lay the foundation for your Labrador puppy to integrate into the family. When you bring your Labrador Retriever puppy home at two months, it has most likely interacted with a few situations and is eager enough to learn and follow the rules of a new home. A recent study scientifically proved that 8-week-old puppies are quite capable of learning at this young age as they quickly learned to open a puzzle box baited with food and remembered the skill an hour later. Interestingly, these puppies learned the skill better from a human rather than their mother. Other studies have also proven that it is effective for future behavior to teach puppies socialization and other skills rather than adults. In this study, puppies who attended a command and socialization training class for one hour a day for six months responded better to strangers than adult dogs who attended the same classes. Are Lab Puppies Easy to Train? Lab puppies are easy to train. They are a working breed that enjoys physical and mental stimulation and have many positive traits. They are intelligent, devoted, friendly, highly social, and love to please. They are often used as guide dogs, therapy dogs, or search and rescue due to their easy trainability. Apart from the age factor, other breed-specific reasons make training a Labrador puppy easy. Here are three examples: Labradors are among the most intelligent dog breeds. In his book, The Intelligence of Dogs, canine psychologist Stanley Coren lists Labradors in the top tier of the smartest dogs. So, even at just two months, your puppy has it in his blood to learn and carry out commands. To perform their original working job of retrieving fish that came off the trawl, Labradors had to be watchful and enthusiastic. These are essential learning characteristics. As game and waterfowl retrievers for hunters, Labradors have to be obedient. Another core training requirement makes your Lab puppy easy to train. With these ten principles on exactly how to train an 8-week-old Labrador, you can now apply them to the key areas your young puppy needs to be trained in. Labrador Puppy Training: Key Areas There are five critical areas in which you must appropriately train your 8-week-old Lab puppy. In the next section, I will tell you what the training entails. How to Socialize a Labrador They say humans are social beings, but that is also true about dogs. Socialization begins with the breeder and continues with you. To socialize a Labrador, expose him to many different places and situations. Include sounds, smells, other adults, children, animals, cars, objects, etc. Dogs who are well socialized in the first 12 weeks will be set up for life. Socializing and training your puppy young plays a significant role in the development of adult dogs, as evidenced in this important study. Here are two key findings: Dogs that are well socialized as pups will behave more positively with humans and are less likely to display unwanted behavioral problems such as fear and aggression. Socialized dogs are more likely to engage in positive social behaviors with humans. They also learn better how to play games with humans, helping them establish a true bond with their owners. As a puppy, you can teach your Labrador social skills and confidence through intentional training moments in the family. Once he has completed his vaccinations, take him to public places such as parks or puppy socialization classes. Put him outside hourly and learn to anticipate when he needs to go. Reward and praise him when he does go outside. Usually, puppies will need to relieve themselves early in the morning and after meals. Use their natural rhythm for daily pee or poop walks. Dogs hate messing in the area they sleep in and usually hold it. Nonetheless, very young puppies might be unable to do so. Walk your Labrador after his morning meal and hang around for 15 minutes or so to allow him to do his thing. Repeat the same in the evening. Puppies will need to be allowed to relieve themselves every hour, and for vaccinated dogs, a short walk every hours is an ideal routine to prevent them from peeing around the house. If you crate your puppy because you need to go out, get someone to help you stick to the routine. Repeating this routine for the first few days will give your new furry friend a good idea of his expectations. Check out my guide to Labrador potty training here. To crate train an 8-week-old Labrador puppy, start as soon as you bring him home. Slowly introduce him to the crate by throwing a treat inside and let him explore the crate voluntarily. When you first leave him with the door closed, make sure he is tired as he will sleep and not be afraid. Check out my Best Dog Crates for Labradors and Playpens recommendations, including soft crates, travel crates, and furniture styles. Here are six key things you should practice when crate-training your Labrador: Keep your puppy in the crate at night. Initiate crate training from the very first day you bring your puppy home. It will be harder to succeed in crate training if your puppy gets used to other sleeping arrangements. My puppy cried during the first night, but she was just fine after that. Lab puppies can be left alone in a crate for 1 hour for each month of age for up to 4 hours. Keep your dog in the crate when you are out of the house. This is also for his safety, such as when you are cooking. Do not let your Lab out of the cage when barking or giving you those puppy eyes. Instead, reward good behavior in the crate, i. He will quickly learn that being quiet leads to nice things. He will quickly learn that this special place is just for him. Various toys and bedding will offer some comfort for your Labrador. When purchasing a crate for your puppy, the best ones will give your Lab enough room to stand, sit, turn, and lie down comfortably on his side with paws outstretched. Instead, buy a crate with an adjustable divider that allows him to grow into and choose a standard metal model with either a single or double door. Travel kennels like this Petmate Ultra Vari Kennel , also from Amazon, are also hardy when you are on the move with your dog. This one is even airline adaptable and meets most airline cargo specifications. Older dogs may refrain from biting because they have been trained not to hurt as they have learned their bite inhibition. This simply means that the dog has learned to control the strength of his bite. This sends the message that the bite hurts. Persist by leaving your hand in his mouth until he lets go, then use lots of praise. All puppies need to master this technique that they initially learned from their mother and littermates. Learn Bite Inhibition Training! Training your Lab puppy to soft bite must be done in puppyhood as an adolescent dog will not know how to adjust the force of his jaws when he has adult teeth and adult jaw muscles. This can be devastating for you both, should your Labrador go on to bite someone! Have realistic expectations — as it can take your puppy weeks to learn his soft bite. How to Train a Labrador Puppy to Walk on a Leash Walking on a leash is not a natural skill in dogs — they need to learn it! Teach a leash cue, then introduce the pup to very short walks. If the dog pulls, stand fast and wait for him to return to you before continuing. Do this by letting him wear them for short periods inside the house and yard. I find the best no-pull harness to be those that are not rear-attached, such as the Walk Your Dog With Love harness. They give you more control and are ideal for medium-large breeds. Give a treat when the command is obeyed. Introduce your Lab to short walks outside on a leash. When it appears he is about to lunge toward another dog or object, quickly distract him with a treat. Timing is crucial. Reward him every time commands are obeyed and gradually reduce the rewards as the art of leash walking is perfected. You can start steps 1 and 2 when the puppy is young, but you can only commence step 3 once the dog has been vaccinated. Final Thoughts Eight weeks old is the perfect time to train a Labrador puppy in key areas such as socialization, crate training, potty training, not biting, and leash training. To successfully train your Lab puppy in these areas, you must follow good training principles such as using reward-based training, being consistent in your commands, and disciplining at the precise moment of poor behavior. Begin with basic commands before introducing more complex or trick commands. Related Posts You May Like:. Puppy training development after 6 months It is very tempting to get carried away with puppy training. Your young do is so willing to please and such fun to be around. It is important to go at a happy pace for you both. Positive reinforcement training is the right choice for your puppy because there are no negative consequences to getting something wrong. But you can still both suffer from burnout and frustration if you try to reach the later puppy training stages without totally aceing the earlier developments. Your Puppy Training Schedule This may not be exactly the same for each puppy, especially with retrieving which is more Labrador specific. However, it gives you a rough idea. Constantly changing direction. Stopping frequently for cuddles and rewards. This means I blow the recall whistle whenever the puppy runs towards me, no compulsion, and no whistle unless the recall is already underway. Socialisation: Lots almost daily of outings to different places rural and urban carried Visits to family and friends. Bite inhibition: Discourage hard biting, allow mouthing. Working with food: Learning how to take food gently without snatching or grabbing at the treat pot. I still give the puppy lots of encouragement by running away as soon as I blow the whistle. Socialisation: More socialisation, at least twice a week to busy public places. Bite inhibition: Discourage hard biting, allow gentle mouthing. Retrieving: Encourage chase and pick up retrieve drive. Hand touch: I teach all new puppies to touch my hand with their noses. This is a great foundation for other skills. Recall: Puppy recall continues, reduce my run to a walk, avoid any distractions. Still frequently blow the recall whenever the pup runs towards me of her own free will. Socialisation: From ground level after vaccination. No other leash walking at all Bite inhibition: No biting, gentle mouthing allowed. Retrieving: Continue to build drive. Positions: I introduce three positions — sit, stand, down. What to expect from your 3 month old puppy Most three month old puppies will be sleeping through the night. And will be having less potty training accidents in the house. There are a few potty training problems that arise at this age, and they are all covered in 15 potty training problems solved. Biting is a big shock and a big problem for many new Lab puppy parents so do check out our complete guide to biting , and join the forum for help and support. Help encourage your puppy to stay in their bed while you are eating. I have a pot of dog treats on our kitchen table, and whenever we sit down to a meal, the puppy gets a treat each time she steps into her basket. Just a treat for stepping in there. What to expect from your 4 month old puppy Your 4 month old puppy will be pretty much potty trained, but accidents still happen if they are left alone too long. Biting is usually starting to subside now, and many four month old puppies will be able to mouth at your hand without hurting you. At this point I start to discourage all mouthing. I teach every puppy to let me touch her face or approach her with my hand, food, a leash etc while holding eye contact and not grabbing at me, or at what is in my hand. This is the age at which people often start to push forward with training. Your 4 month old puppy is capable of quite a lot. There is nothing wrong with teaching your puppy different cues and even some tricks. I recommend you still avoid long duration activities at this point as they are a common stumbling point with puppies young enough to have a short attention span. A ten second sit is ample. Add mild distractions Recall: Fade additional cues. Begin to whistle the pup and stand still. Add mild distractions. Clicker train to polish this in more mouthy puppies. No commands are needed for this. Gradual introduction of distractions. Advanced puppy training begins in earnest This is where I start a programme of sporting training with my Labs. You can begin raising your standards and expectations, asking for longer and more complex behaviors. Teaching your puppy to walk to heel nicely for longer distance and past all kinds of distractions and temptations. Or teaching your puppy to sit and stay for longer periods of time, and even while you go out of sight or while other dogs play nearby. What to expect from your six month old puppy Six months is a common time for people to have a lot of questions and to be struggling with a few challenges. This is now a very bouncy, quite powerful and rapidly maturing young dog. And you may need to patch up a few holes in his training or manners. We have a great article for owners of six month old Lab puppies. Print The dreaded 3-month-old puppy I really enjoy young puppies. Seven- to week-old puppies can be so much fun and while they can be trouble, it is easy to contain them. But when a puppy turns weeks-old…. Three-month-old puppies start feeling good about themselves. They think they have the world all figured out and they will get into everything and run circles around you, even after being scolded or punished. Here is what you need to know about training your week-old Labrador puppy. About this series of posts This is post five of a step-by-step training and socialization program for Labrador puppies. If you read our first post , you know that this series follows our training of Bubba, a female chocolate lab puppy. Bubba is already sold as one of our Custom Trained Retrievers, so it is our responsibility to raise and train her until she has progressed to the level of training the owner has requested. In this case, Bubba will be with us for almost a year and a half. Bubba at 12 weeks old Training and socialization for week-old Labrador puppy — week five home Bubba should have been named Spunky because she is a handful. She runs around our home with her head and tail high, like she is all that. She pulls our shoes out of the organizer, chews on closet doors and digs and splashes in her water dish. So is the life of a 3-month-old Lab puppy. Patience is required to raise young lab pups. They will give you a run for the money. Even the well-behaved ones. No one escapes the terror of the 3-month-old Lab. So, how can you survive this time. Firm and well-defined boundaries that are enforced endlessly. Now is not the time to give up on training your puppy. It is the time to buckle down and show your puppy that there are rules and boundaries, and they must be obeyed. You puppy can and will learn the rules if you are firm and consistent in your corrections. Whatever you do, do not allow the puppy to do whatever it wants with no corrections. That is not being a good puppy mama or dad and it is really not fair to the dog, because training will require much more pressure and correction when the dog is bigger and stronger. Here are the things we worked on this week for training of Bubba. Crate training Bubba is now completely at home in her crate. She remains in her crate a full 4-hours at a time without accidents, is quiet while in there and walks into her crate on a KENNEL command from feet in front of the crate. Bubba will come to me when called, even when she knows that she is going into the crate. While there are still some consistency issues to work on, Bubba is well crate trained at this point. Looking for more information on crate training? Housebreaking Housebreaking is such a difficult job. You will have periods when the puppy is doing so well that you will think you are done. And then, when you least expect it, your puppy will have an accident right in front of you. Bubba has been good at housebreaking. She has had less than a half-dozen accidents in the house and all of them pee accidents. She has never pooped in the house. So, we thought she was pretty much house broke. Then suddenly, she just up and peed right on the dog bed. Housebreaking is always an ongoing process, and we know that over time the accidents will become less and less. Looking for more information on housebreaking? Obedience training your week-old puppy With any dog training, obedience is key! She will SIT on command about 90 percent of the time. The only time we really have issues is when there is a lot of distractions. That is normal for a puppy of her age, but that does not mean that we just allow her to be disobedient when there are distractions. Rather, we look for distractions and then train through them. This is very important because you do not want your dog to just be obedient when everything is calm. You want, even need, your puppy to be obedient when the everyday distractions happen. HERE command As I have already stated, twelve-week-old puppies are cute, but they can also be little terrors. This is the age when they start to get very independent. With that independence comes the desire to run away from you, run around you, play keep-a-way and just generally terrorize your life. We get lots of calls from owners of puppies this age. They all want to know if we can take their dog now for training instead of at the usual months of age that we usually require for hunting dog training. This is very hard, even for professional trainers. But that is almost always a mistake since Bubba will decide to make a game out of not coming to us. Getting your puppy to come to you There are some techniques to help with this matter. Sometimes this is a good time to start treat-training your dog on HERE. This is a short-term fix that we will not continue for long, but it can sometimes help to get us through the next month or two. Labs are almost always driven by food, so it can help you get a better response to the HERE command. You can also have the dog drag a long check cord. The check cord gives you something to grab onto if the dog tries to make a game of coming to you, but you must be careful since the lead can get caught on something and injure your dog. Remember that each time you say HERE, you need to pull your puppy towards you. You need to associate the HERE command with coming towards you. You need your puppy to understand that coming to you is a good thing. That is why treats can help with this. If every time your puppy comes to you, you put her away or take something away from her, soon your puppy will not want to come to you. You must work hard to make coming to you a good experience for your puppy. Last week we introduced Bubba to water and got her swimming. Since then, she has been swimming a couple more times and she is very comfortable retrieving in the water. We also introduced her to decoys on land. Introduction to live birds This week we introduced Bubba to a live bird. We do this using a pigeon with the flight feathers pulled out. The pigeon can walk around and flap its wings, but it cannot fly. We ultimately would love to see the puppy chase down the bird, grab it in their mouth and bring it to us or at least prance around with it a bit. For some dogs, this can take a bit of encouragement the first time. But generally, once the puppy grabs hold of the bird, we see their whole demeanor change. This was the case for Bubba. Once Bubba picked up the pigeon, she pranced around the yard with her tail high and a spring in her step. She was so excited and proud of herself. This is a great response. Introduction to gun fire As I stated in last weeks post, we do not want to rush the introduction to gunfire. We have never had a dog we have raised and trained become gun shy and that is because we introduce gunfire is a very slow and painfully methodical way. The first step is that the dog or puppy is in a box on our dog trailer. While in this box, our other dogs are getting marks in the field. The gunners for these marks are anywhere from yards away from the dog trailer and they are using primers or starter pistols. The puppy is hearing these shots, but they are a long way away and are muted by being in the dog trailer. Our puppies hear these shots for weeks, or months before they ever hear anything closer. This is our first introduction to gun fire. Bubba was exposed to this last week and will be every week for a while before we move anything closer to her. Learn more about introducing your dog to gunfire. Continuation of assistant marks Bubba will continue to get assistant marks most days from now until she is done her training. The marks will continue to increase in distance and complexity but all our marking scenarios for our afternoon sessions involved gunners out in the field throwing marks for Bubba. Final thoughts on training for your week-old Labrador puppy You are really in the thick of it if your puppy is around the week mark. The next month or two will likely be the most challenging of your time raising a Labrador puppy. That will make obedience training easier and faster, but that is still a bit of a ways out. Hang in there and push through. Keep your commands and corrections firm and consistent and you will make progress with your puppy. If you are struggling or need additional help with your new puppy, you can email me ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time, happy retrieving. Training your week-old Labrador puppy?

Listed below are answers to the most common questions I receive as you are preparing to take your puppy home: 1. What is my puppy eating? We are feeding your puppy PawTree. They have a multitude of other flavors you can try out after your puppy comes home too. You can buy this food by clicking the PawTree picture at the bottom of any page on our website. You can find out more information at www. We also encourage you to set your order to their EZship so you never run out. They also offer personalized food by filling out a pet profile so we encourage all families to head over to fill out their pet profile for personalized food plan as well as personalized bags of dog food when they arrive. How many times per day should my puppy be fed? We feed puppies, weeks old 3 x per day. We try to keep them on a schedule such as: a. Once the puppy reaches 12 weeks, we cut them back to eating 2 x per day, eliminating the noon feeding. Increase the amount you feed based on the recommendations you will find on the dog food bag as suggested by weight of the puppy. We do not recommend free feeding — give your puppy about 20 minutes to eat, then pick it up and put it away. Water should be provided at all times, except during the night. Wet the food for about 30 minutes prior to giving it to the puppy so it softens to aid in digestion. However, if you see loose stools it is almost assuredly overfeeding so back it off until the stool is firm and then slowly add back in. When can I start training my puppy? We like to see training start as soon as you pick up your puppy from my home, or your puppy arrives via car or airplane. We recommend transporting your puppy home in a crate that is lined with a bath towel. Feeding time is a fantastic opportunity to train as you can spend a few minutes several times per day with teaching the basic commands of sit, stay and come. We provide a helpful training booklet with detailed information on training on our Puppy Tips page. What size crate should I buy for my puppy? Most puppies that will mature to a medium size will need a large crate once they have reached maturity. Plastic crates are an option as well. If you have any questions please ask us. What type of collar and leash do I need and what size is best for my puppy? We like to buy the less expensive, adjustable-type of collars and a nylon leash. We do not care for the expandable leashes that allow the puppy to walk way out in front or way off to the side of you. The smallest setting for the collar would be about 8 inches and expanding out from there. We use small carabiners to attach the stretched chain between the collar and the leash. This will prevent your puppy from chewing your new leash. If you are reserving a small size pup then I would suggest an XS collar. Another option while they are very young is a slip leash style. Some families like to train in harnesses. This is also a tool you can use. Sizes will vary from company to company, but most go off of weight. Ask us the estimated weight of your future puppy at the time they will go home so you will have a rough idea of what to purchase. It is never a bad idea to weight to buy until you can size your puppy in person though as each harness will fit differently. You can play the radio softly if your puppy is in a different room from you as this is how they were raised with us. You have to find a system that works for you. However, keeping consistent for the first few nights will build a sleep pattern in your dog you will enjoy for its entire life. How many times per night will my puppy need to go out to go potty? We suggest you feed your puppy dinner no later than p. Make sure that you see puppy go potty and poop before putting him to bed for the night. If your bedtime is p. Then only if puppy is whining, let him out very methodically to potty no playing and put him right back to bed. How many times per day should my puppy need to go potty? Puppies will always go potty right away after they wake up and after they eat. If you take puppy out right after eating, see him go potty, then allow about 30 minutes of some free time in your home before making his world small using a temporary fence or leash. On average they can typically hold their bladders for 2-hours, but every puppy will react differently to stimuli in your home. Should my puppy have contact with other vaccinated dogs? We like to make sure other dogs have not only been vaccinated, but are also free of parasites. Worms of all sorts can live in feces and it just take a quick second for your puppy to ingest enough to get a parasite. This product should be alternated every 6 months. There are countless natural remedies as well as chemical based options you can find at your vet. We always prefer natural options first, but in some cases the chemical based products are needed. Check with your vet or trainer for their recommendations in your area. We strongly suggest topical or collar options only. How often should I give my puppy a bath and what should I use? We do not bathe our puppies unless they are dirty and we use baby shampoo or something gentle. We usually suggest people decide what they like in the look of their Labradoodle. Do you like the longer, shaggy look, or do you like the shorter, more manicured coat? If you leave the coat longer, you will need to keep it combed out and mat free. Do you have recommendations for where to stay when we pick up our puppy? We are located only 20 mins from Lebanon, Oregon. There are numerous hotel options in Albany, Springfield, or Eugene that you can explore. The difficult part is deciding which one will have the greatest positive impact on their well-being. The following are some of the top options for dog foods for your Labradoodle: Dry Food: Due to its affordability and accessibility, dry dog food is a preferred option for Labradoodles. The nutrients in high-quality dry food are appropriate for a different life stage of your Labradoodle. Dry food has the greatest shelf life when compared to other types of dog foods. Wet Food: Wet food or canned food is another option for owners. Labradoodles enjoy the variety of flavors in canned food that come in interesting shapes like other meaty foods. Owners may combine wet food with dried food because wet food alone is typically more expensive than dry food. While it can be costly, doing so guarantees that their pups receive high-quality food. If you only give the same food to your Labradoodles, they could develop picky eating habits. Hence, it makes sense to follow the advice of the majority of veterinarians to combine kibble and wet food with a ratio of 20 to .Make sure the food you choose is sustainable and highly recommended by experts. Ensure that it will suit your needs, those of your dog, your financial situation, and your way of life. The average price of a Labradoodle is already costly. Hence, it is important to choose the kind of diet that will also suit your budget. Foods to Avoid Feeding Your Labradoodle Dog owners must be aware of the foods that can be harmful, poisonous, or trigger an allergic reaction in their Labradoodles. The following is a list of some harmful or poisonous foods that you must never give your pet Labradoodle: Alcohol: There is no enzyme that can digest alcohol in Labradoodles. Hypoglycemia , metabolic acidosis , respiratory difficulties, or central nervous system CNS impairment could result from ingestion. Avocado: Avocados contain the fungicidal toxin persin , which has been linked to the death of many dog breeds, including Labradoodles. It can cause vomiting, loose stool, and heart damage when taken in large doses. Chocolate: The major alkaloid in cocoa and chocolates, theobromine , cannot be broken down by an enzyme found in the stomachs of Labradoodles. As a result, even small quantities of chocolate can cause toxicity. Additionally, they could become uncontrollable, have convulsions, throw up, and have diarrhea. Grapes and raisins: As a result of the tartaric acid found in grapes and raisins, Labradoodles experience diarrhea , vomiting, dehydration , and kidney failure. Unfortunately, even one full grape can cause fatal injuries and irreversible harm to Labradoodles. Onion, garlic, leeks, and chives: All of these vegetables contain N-propyl disulfide , which robs red blood cells of their ability to carry oxygen. Consuming these veggies over time may cause hemolytic anemia. It is frequently present in toothpaste, gum, candies, and syrups. Listed below are foods that may seem harmless but are actually hazardous for Labradoodles: Cooked bones: Cooked bones are prone to shatter into shards. They can hurt your Labradoodle as well as obstruct its mouth, throat, and stomach. High-sugar foods: Your Labradoodle is more likely to develop health issues, including diabetes, obesity, and teeth damage, if it consumes too much sugar from other dog foods. Avoid cheap dog food, which usually contains too much salt. Consuming too much salt can result in seizures, renal failure, diarrhea, and vomiting. If ignored, this results in gastrointestinal blockage and death. Bring your Labradoodle to the nearest veterinary clinic immediately if you think they have accidentally ingested any of the aforementioned foods. A smart technique to make sure that their nutritional demands are being satisfied is to switch to a new food. If you want to gradually introduce a new food to your Labradoodle pup, make sure to introduce it in little amounts every day. The timeline provided below will help you introduce a new food to your Labradoodle: Days. Dog owners often get bombarded with endless choices as well as countless adverts from the dog food companies, who all claim that theirs is the best. When it comes to dog food, the simple answer is no one food is best for all dogs. But the question is: which diet is the best for your Labradoodle? Luckily, there are many different options when it comes to dog food. The most popular manufactured foods include a complete diet dry , with or without a biscuit mixer and semi-moist. Some dog foods contain only natural ingredients. Then there is the option of feeding your dog a home-made diet. Some owners swear by a raw diet while others feed their Labradoodles vegetarian food. Within the manufactured options, there are many different qualities of food. Usually, you get what you pay for. Expensive ones are more likely to provide better nutrition for your doodle in terms of minerals, nutrients, and high-quality meat, whereas the cheap ones will most likely contain a lot of grain. Dried food also called kibble in the USA tend to be less expensive than other dog foods. They have improved a lot over the last few years, and some of the more expensive ones are now an excellent choice for a healthy, complete diet. Dried foods also contain the least fat and the most preservatives. Often semi-moist foods contain a lot of sugar and artificial substances, which is why some dogs seem to love them. Choosing the right food for your Labradoodle is very important. The diet influences his health, coat, and even temperament. It can have an effect on his health, coat , skin, energy levels, and temperament. There are several different types of food that you can feed your labradoodle — dry, semi-moist, canned, frozen, or freeze-dried are just some of the options. You can also feed him a home-made or raw diet. Many owners of labradoodle with allergies or skin conditions are now considering this option. Dry Dog Food for Labradoodles Dry food is a popular choice for Labradoodles, especially for large dogs who get through a lot of food. It is also less expensive than other dog foods. It is worth paying for a high-quality dry food as cheaper ones may contain a lot of cereal. It also means that you have to feed larger quantities to ensure your dog gets sufficient nutrients. Canned Dog Food for Labradoodles Canned food is another popular choice. Dogs also love them. They love the taste, and it generally comes in a variety of flavors. Canned food is often great mixed with dry kibble. If your labradoodle has lost interest in food and on a dry food diet, then you can add a small amount of canned food. Canned food tends to be more expensive than dried food. Many owners do not like the mess that it makes. If you store a part-opened tin in the fridge, then it can have an overpowering smell when you open the fridge door. Semi-Moist Dog Food for Labradoodles These are the commercial dog foods shaped like pork chops, salamis, burgers, or other meaty foods. They are the least nutritional of all dog foods. They are full of sugars, artificial flavorings, and coloring. You may give your doodle one as an occasional treat, but they do not provide the nutrition that your labradoodle needs. Freeze-Dried Dog Food for Labradoodles The frozen food manufacturers often make this for dog owners who like the convenience of it. You can store them for six months to a year. They do it to make sure that their pets are getting the right nutrition they need. Feeding your doodle a home-cooked diet can be time consuming and expensive. The tricky part is sticking to it once you have started with the best intentions. Raw food for Labradoodles If your doodle is not doing well on commercially prepared dog food then you might need to consider a raw diet. There is evidence that they are becoming increasingly popular among the Labradoodle owners. Raw food diets emulate the way dogs ate before the existence of commercial dog foods. After all, dry, canned, or other styles of cooked food for dogs were mainly created as a means of convenience. However, raw diets are not without controversy. Supporters of the raw food diet argue that a carefully planned raw diet gives the dog numerous health benefits, including a healthier coat, more energy, cleaner teeth, and get rid of bad breath and doggy odor. But the critics say that the risks of nutritional imbalance, intestinal problems, and food-borne illness caused by handling and feeding raw meat outweigh any benefits. Scientifically, the jury is still out. This is one of the most frequent questions that all the Labradoodle owners ask. But there is no easy answer. The correct amount of food for your labradoodle depends on several factors such as: Breed. As they grow you will move from four meals per day at 8 weeks old, to just one or two in adulthood. And you will want to use as much of their daily kibble as you can in training. Helping to strengthen the bond between you, as well as to teaching them which behaviors you want to see in your home. Feeding a Labradoodle Puppy When it comes to feeding your new Labradoodle puppy there are plenty of options to choose between and a number of things to consider. Puppies grow up fast. The first thing to keep in mind is that puppies have different dietary needs to adult dogs. Getting too much of some nutrients, and not enough of others can lead to developmental problems. Growing pups digest food and absorb nutrients differently than adult dogs too. Their gastrointestinal system also works much faster than that of an adult dog. Puppy Nutrient Requirements Puppies need more calories than adult dogs, relative to their size. In fact, they need about twice as many calories in relation to their body weight compared to that of a full grown Labradoodle. Compared to mature dogs, puppies also need: more protein to support growing muscle more fat to fuel growth and a different mineral balance to aid in the rapid development of their bones. For example, one study showed that puppies fed a low phosphorus diet suffer from impaired appetite and growth, diminished skin and fur quality, and a disturbed musculoskeletal system. Too much calcium can also negatively affect bone development, by accelerating it. This is a serious joint condition that leads to painful arthritis and lameness. The smaller and younger your puppy is, the more often they need to eat, since their stomachs are too small for big portions. Labradoodle puppies that are 4 months or younger should have their food split into 4 meals a day. When they reach 4 and 6 months old this can be reduced to 3 meals. Knowing how much to feed your Labradoodle puppy can be tricky. So the feeding charts on the packaging are a good place to start. This basic pet calorie calculator can help determine how many calories a puppy needs. Overfeeding Labradoodle Puppies Canine obesity is a big problem for many dogs and the Labradoodle is no exception. Some Labrador Retrievers are known to have a genetic mutation that causes them to have an insatiable appetite. But there are plenty of genetically normal dogs who will always want more food. If your puppy is constantly hungry you can try giving him smaller, more frequent meals. In fact, for training purposes we recommend using as much of each of the meals rations as you can as training treats between meals. These days there are a lot of brands vying for space in the dog food market. So deciding what to feed your Labradoodle puppy might be the most difficult question of them all. Puppies that are 8 to 12 weeks old should continue eating the same food they were eating at the breeders. If you want to change their food, wait until they are fully settled at home. Then transition gradually to a different diet to avoid causing an upset tummy. You can do it over the course of a week, like this: Feed 1 part new food to 3 parts old food on the first two days. Equal parts old food and new food on days three and four. And three parts new food to one part old food for two more days after that. Feeding a Labradoodle Puppy Dry Food Most puppy parents choose one of the many commercial dry puppy foods available. There are many reasons why these diets also known as kibbles are so popular. They are. Is kibble, cans, raw or homemade food better? Swapping Puppy Food Brands Moving into his or her new home is a challenging and exciting time for your Labradoodle puppy. Keep feeding what your pup is used to for at least two weeks. Then, slowly start mixing in the new food you have chosen for your pup. Labradoodle Puppy Diets Puppies have lots of growing to do. This means that they need more of certain minerals and nutrients for example calcium and phosphorus for bone growth. Your labradoodle pup will also need a higher amount of good quality protein. This is definitely not the case, though. This—among other things—can cause joint problems, such as hip dysplasia. Labradoodles are a cross between two breeds that are both already at high risk of developing hip dysplasia. The most important thing of all is to avoid overfeeding a Labradoodle puppy, as we will see later in this article. This is called hypoglycemia. Generally, a feeding schedule for your Labradoodle pup can look like this: 2 — 4 months: 4 meals daily 4 — 6 months: 3 meals daily 6 — 8 months: 2 — 3 meals daily Older than 8 months: 2 meals daily. Just make sure to divide the total daily amount onto multiple feedings. You can make slight adjustments to these amounts if your pup is looking a little slim or chunky. The number of calories your pup needs will also change as he or she gets older and heavier. There are a couple of different options out there. Commercial dog foods offer complete and balanced nutrition for your growing pup — this means that they have all the right nutrients in all the right amounts and ratios. If a puppy is fed an inappropriate diet, this could lead to long-lasting growth defects or other malnutrition diseases. Feeding a Labradoodle Puppy Kibble Kibble is the most popular type of dog food out there. There are only two things you need to pay attention to when choosing kibble: It should be designed specifically for puppies, and it should be high-quality. Research shows that higher-priced dog foods tend to have higher nutrient digestibility than lower-priced kibble — so it might be worth spending a bit more. Choose a kibble that contains a meat protein source as the first ingredient, and steer clear of ingredients like corn, soy, and cereals. Due to its high water content, the aromas and taste of the meat unfold better, making wet food the most palatable food there is. This comes at a bit of a cost, though: Wet food tends to be more expensive than kibble, and of course it spoils more easily. To get the best of both worlds of commercial dog foods, you can combine or alternate between kibble and wet food. The BARF diet consists of lots of raw meat and bones, as well as some veg and fruit. Supporters of raw feeding think that it will make your dog healthier, although there is no solid evidence for this yet. Raw meats are often contaminated with bacteria such as Salmonella or Campylobacter. These bacteria could potentially cause diseases in your pup. However, this is extremely rare, as the digestive tract most dogs can handle these bugs just fine. This means that there is a lot less danger of bacterial infections from raw meats. Keep in mind that cooking for a dog is not the same as cooking for yourself. Avoid spices, onions, garlic, cooking oils, and too much salt. These are dogs that will always want more food and are prone to obesity. It can help to space out meals or add one or two feedings a day if your dog is constantly hungry. Another option is to make your dog work for small amounts of food throughout the day — be it with puppy training, food balls, or puzzles. The possibilities are endless.

This fact alone makes it difficult to judge whether or not your pug is going into labour. Because dogs can't verbally communicate the changes in their body or the feelings they're experiencing, owners of expectant female dogs must be vigilant in observing the physical signs of impending labour. While the signs that a pug is about to have puppies can vary from dog to dog, there are several telltale signs of labour common across all dogs that pug owners can watch for. A pug can't tell you what's going on with its body. Consult your calendar. Pugs are pregnant for an average of 63 days from the date of conception, but this varies from dog to dog. Pugs can give birth anywhere from 50 to 75 days after the date of conception. Become more alert and observant of your dog around the 50th day of gestation. Check your dog's temperature. The average temperature of a pug when taken rectally is between .A dog's temperature drops below degrees approximately 24 hours prior to labour. Look for vomiting over a period of two to three days. Hormonal changes and the need for an empty stomach during birth encourage an upset stomach and vomiting in pugs two to three days prior to labour. Monitor your pug's food intake. Expectant pugs will typically reject food the day before going into labour. Watch for signs of nesting. Expectant dogs seek out isolated spots to give birth to their puppies. Dogs in nature, including pugs, are den animals. As such, they search out quiet, comfortable, protected spots to go into labour. Pugs about to go into labour may drag blankets, socks, shirts or other fabric items to their chosen spot prior to giving birth. Observe any changes in behaviour. Pugs about to have puppies may follow you around and stick close to you at all times. Other expectant pugs may become snippy or slightly aggressive prior to the birth of their puppies. Pugs become extremely restless and uncomfortable a maximum of 12 hours before having puppies. Note any odd actions. Pacing, panting, whining and shivering without provocation are signs that the pug is entering the first stage of labour. Look for a gush of straw-coloured fluid coming from the pug's vaginal canal. This is a sign that the placental water sack has ruptured. The first pug puppy is usually born 10 to 30 minutes after this occurs. WARNING Seek emergency veterinary medical attention immediately if your pug does not start labour within 24 hours of a significant drop in body temperature, appears to be in a great deal of pain or takes more than a four hour break between delivering each pup. These signs are indicative of a complicated labour that could have deadly consequences for your dog or her pups. Some Final Words It is possible but it is also a rare event. This physical feature can cause complications for the mother. The usual method for Pugs to give birth is through a C-section. This method is determined by having an ultra-sound or an x-ray done prior to the birth of those puppies. This is the preferred method if you want the mother and her puppies to survive the birth experience. The cost of a C-section varies between vet clinics and animal hospitals. However, there are risks involved with a C-section. The anesthesia can have a negative effect on those puppies. Then, they may get cut during the incision. This accidental cut can cause the puppies to bleed to death if not caught in time. Finally, if the tools used are not sterile, then your Pug and her babies may get an infection and die. What Do Pugs Eat? Click here to find out. The Pug dog breed is not that much different from other dog breeds. Their pregnancies last the standard 53 to 63 days depending on certain factors. The size and health of the mother are two of those factors which may alter the timetable somewhat. The birth process comes in 3 stages. The first stage is when the mother loses her appetite, be restless, and may vomit. This is all being done at the time the uterus begins to contract. This stage lasts about 12 to 24 hours. The second stage is the actual birthing of the puppies. The mother will have her babies between 30 and minute intervals giving everyone time to clean the pup and get it moving. The final stage is when the placenta shows up. This happens generally when the last puppy is born. There are some difficulties that may arise if you have your Pug give birth at home. If you are not ready for these difficulties, then it is advisable that you let the vet handle the birthing process for you. Can Pugs Eat Banana? The ages of both the male and the females are a bit different. The female should go through about 3 heat cycles before they get pregnant. This gives your mother-to-be a chance to fully develop physically and get ready for the rigors of puppy birth. This puts the female at about the age of 18 months. On the other, the male reaches sexual maturity at about 12 to 15 months. That is when you should start to use your male dog as a breeder. After your female has had her first litter, let her wait one season before breeding her again. This gives her a chance to recover from the previous litter. If your female is 6 years old or older, then it is time to stop her from having more puppies. The males do not face these restrictions. Some Final Words While a Pug can have up to 9 puppies at a time, it is best to wish for a lower number of puppies. That way your female stands a better chance of surviving the pregnancy and bringing you more litters as the years pass. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Introduction Pug giving birth for the first time can be an exciting and fulfilling experience. It can also be quite a challenge, so it is important to be prepared. Before the birth, you should talk to your vet to ensure your pug is healthy and ready for labor. During labor, you will need to be present to help ensure a safe delivery. After the birth, you should check on the mother and the puppies to make sure they are healthy. With some preparation and care, you can help ensure a safe and successful delivery for your pug and her puppies. What to Expect When your pug gives birth for the first time, you should expect an exciting yet challenging experience. Preparing beforehand is key to making sure you and your pug are ready for the big day. During labor, your pug will need your support and the birth process can take several hours. Make sure to keep your pug comfortable and monitor her health, and for the puppies, make sure they are eating properly and are growing well. With the right preparation and care, your pug and her puppies can have a successful first birthing experience. You should also get the birthing crate ready and make sure you have a thermometer, towels, and hot water bottles on hand. During labor, you should stay with your pug and help her out as much as possible. Make sure to contact your vet if you have any questions or concerns. Make sure your pug is in good health and up to date with vaccinations. Have all the supplies you need ready and at hand, including some extra food and a few blankets. Contact your vet to make sure they are available in case of an emergency. Familiarize yourself with the birthing process so you know what to expect. Your vet will be able to answer any questions you have, and give you advice on what to expect during the birth. They will also be able to administer some medications to help with labor and delivery, if necessary. If your pug has any underlying health issues, your vet will be able to advise on how best to keep them safe and healthy during their pregnancy. During Labor During labor, your pug may display signs of restlessness, pacing, panting and discomfort. If the labor process seems to be taking longer than expected, contact your vet for advice. During labor, keep your pug comfortable and provide encouragement, but let her do the work. Offer her food and water in small amounts as she may not have much of an appetite. If it seems too slow or too fast, contact your vet for advice. Birth Process Once your pug enters labor, expect her to deliver her puppies within hours. It is important to be patient and monitor your pug during this time. Ensure she has access to food and water and plenty of clean bedding. Note any unusual discomforts your pug expresses and take her to the vet if necessary. During the birth, it is important to stay with your pug and support her. Check the puppies for any signs of distress and help to move the puppies from the birth canal if needed. Be prepared to provide assistance with the delivery of any stuck puppies. Be patient and remain calm and comforting during this process. After the puppies are born, be sure to check and record how many were born, the gender of the puppies and any other signs of distress. Keep a watchful eye over the puppies and make sure that the new mother is adequately caring for them. Congratulate yourself for a job well done! Make sure the area is kept warm and that the mother is able to nurse the puppies. Monitor the puppies regularly and keep an eye out for any complications. Make sure to check the puppies for any deformities or health issues, and keep them clean and free of fleas. Bathing them can help keep them healthy, as well as helping to prevent fleas. Feeding them a high-quality puppy food will also help them develop properly. Keep the puppies in a quiet, safe environment, and make sure they have access to plenty of toys to keep them active and engaged. Socializing them is also important; spend a little time each day playing with them and getting them used to human contact. This will help them become well-adjusted, friendly adult pugs. Recovery Recovery is an important stage of the birthing process. For the mother, it is the time to replenish strength and energy after labor. She will also need to rest and stay in a quiet area to ensure she recovers well. To ensure a smooth recovery, provide your pug with a comfortable nesting place, clean bedding, and plenty of fresh food and water. For the puppies to thrive, their mother needs to be in good health. Offer your pug plenty of love and attention, as emotional support is just as important as physical care. You may also need to help her with feeding her pups until they are able to eat on their own. It is important to keep the puppies and their mother in a clean and safe area. Make sure to keep the puppies warm, as they are unable to regulate their own body temperature. Look out for signs of infection or illness in both your pug and the puppies. After delivery, it is normal for the mother to be exhausted and weak. It is also normal for her to lack appetite. She may also feel disoriented and be in pain. Make sure she is given a warm, clean place to rest. Keep a check on her temperature and monitor her urination and defecation regularly. Make sure she is well-hydrated, and give her meals that are rich in vitamins and minerals. If your pug is having trouble recovering, contact your veterinarian immediately. If you notice any signs of distress or unusual behaviors, keep a close eye on her and, if necessary, seek professional help. Monitor her activities and make sure that she is not straining herself. With proper care and attention, your pug should make a full recovery. Make sure the mother has plenty of food and water, and keep the puppies safe and comfortable in a warm and clean environment. You should also be aware of any health issues the puppies may have. Check their eyes, ears, and fur for any signs of infection, and be sure to handle them with care to avoid any accidental injuries. If you notice any unusual behaviors or signs of distress, take them to the vet for further examination. Take some time to socialize your puppies with other animals and people, so they can become comfortable with them. Post Views: .Pug pregnancy symptoms and early signs Pregnant Pug symptoms We understand how difficult it can be to determine whether your Pug is pregnant or not. Luckily, there are several early signs of a Pug pregnancy. Below is a list of pregnant Pug symptoms and early signs: A pregnant Pug will not eat as much as before. At times, she may not want to eat her meals at all. This usually happens around 2 weeks or 14 days after being inseminated. Instead of being energetic and playful, a pregnant pug starts to feel lethargic and tired. These symptoms and early signs are just a few we listed. Many veterinarians and Pug breeders will perform a series of tests and exams to fully confirm that your Pug is pregnant, including blood work, ultrasounds, and x-rays. How can I tell if my pug is pregnant? Here, we will explain two main methods that will provide you with full proof that your Pug is pregnant. Pug ultrasound 25 days after conception If you suspect your Pug is pregnant, call your vet and bring your Pug to the vet. At the vet, a Pug ultrasound will be performed. Usually, the ultrasound can be done as early as 3 weeks or 21 days after partnering. There are pros and cons to using the ultrasound method. While it should be painless, it can also be uncomfortable for the pregnant Pug. Some Pugs may tense up and feel vulnerable with the vet touching their belly. All of this can stress out your precious Pug. Pug ultrasound can also be costly to owners on a budget. Blood test at 35 days 5 weeks after conception Another way to fully confirm that your Pug is pregnant is by having a blood test. The blood test is vital to confirm whether your Pug is pregnant or not because it can help to detect pregnancy hormones in Pugs. There are also pros and cons to getting a blood test. The con is that if the blood test is done too early on, it may not always be accurate. Take a Pug that is less than 5 weeks or 35 days pregnant as an example. If blood work is done, it may show a negative result even though your Pug is in fact pregnant, albeit at the early stages. Save Big On Dog Essentials! Welcome to our pack! What is the most reliable Pug pregnancy test? While the Pug ultrasound is more expensive than the blood test, it is definitely the most accurate way to confirm that your Pug is indeed pregnant. Keep in mind that it is best to wait 25 days post-partnering to get the ultrasound done or else the ultrasound scan might be a complete waste of money as it may give you an incorrect result. The ultrasound scan images can also show you how many puppies your Pug is expecting. How long are Pugs pregnant? How long are Pugs pregnant for? By the third week of the pregnancy, your pregnant Pug will start to show signs of pregnancy we mentioned before such as not eating as much, skipping meals here and there, stomach getting bigger, and feeling more tired and lethargic than before. In addition to these early signs, you can also expect the following in your pregnant Pug: Your Pug may have canine morning sickness. Instead of eating less and losing appetite that occurs earlier in the pregnancy, your Pug is now gaining back her appetite and may in fact eat more than normal. Your Pug may not want to walk, play, or exercise as much as before. Seeking comfort and care during the pregnancy, your Pug may want you to pet her more and cuddle with her more. During the 4th week, you may notice a clear discharge from your pregnant Pug. Again, some pregnant Pugs may experience one of these symptoms while others may experience all of these symptoms. No two pregnant Pugs are alike so the pregnancy symptoms will vary. Since this is just the early stages, it can be hard to tell. Month 2 Things get more exciting and interesting during the second month. This is when the signs of Pug pregnancy really start to speed up. For instance, between the 32nd day to the 35th day, the fetuses will start to have toes and eyelids. The pregnant Pug is in for a ride because the fetuses are developing very quickly during month 2. On the 50th day, we highly recommend that you bring your pregnant Pug to the vet for an X-ray. This X-ray will inform you of how many puppies your pregnant Pug is expecting. This information is crucial because it helps you as the owner or breeder to prepare and plan according to the litter size. This is normal behavior that pregnant dogs naturally exhibit because they are trying to look for a comfortable and safe spot to give birth to their puppies. We recommend that owners and breeders add comfortable and soft cushions and bedding for their pregnant Pug. This will help the Pug feel more safe and secure during her pregnancy and leading into labor. At this stage, here are some signs of Pug pregnancy you can expect: Eating more than her usual amount. Around the 45th day, your pregnant Pug will lose her appetite for food again and eat less than usual. A significant weight gain due to pregnancy. Urinating more often than usual. Month 3 The third month is both exciting and nerve-wracking, especially for first-time owners and owners that did not expect their Pugs to become pregnant. At this point, you know your Pug is definitely pregnant. During month 3, the Pug will be giving birth to her puppies. Here are some signs to look for during month 3: As the puppies inside the pregnant Pug move into position, her waist will get slimmer than before. As the pregnant Pug prepares for pregnancy during days 61 and 62, she may not want to eat as much as before. Instead of lethargy, your Pug will start to circle around, become restless, and may even get agitated. We will share a bit more tips so that you are prepared and know what to do while your Pug is pregnant. How long do Pugs stay pregnant? Pugs will stay pregnant for about 58 to 68 days. You can expect a Pug to be pregnant for an average length of about 63 days and this is from the date of her conception to the date of delivery. Owners and breeders can expect both behavioral changes as well as physical changes. Pregnant Pugs does not want to see or socialize with other pets or dogs in the house. It may seem that your pregnant Pug is lethargic, but she may in fact be calmer than usual and less tense than before. Try to keep her space nice, tidy, and comfortable. Expect your pregnant Pug to sleep more often and in different places around the house. How to prepare for a Pug pregnancy Preparation is key when your Pug is expecting. Puppy kibble is great because they are nutritious that would be helpful to the developing puppies inside her. Expect your pregnant Pug to feel lethargic and tired and may not want to walk or exercise as much. This is natural so owners and breeders should not over-exert their pregnant Pug. Your pregnant Pug may also have a difficult time breathing and may pant heavily so avoid over-exerting your precious pregnant Pug. On month 3, start preparing and make her crate comfortable and secure. Pug pregnancy and birth: How do Pugs give birth? Your vet will help you determine whether C-section is the best option. C-sections can be costly for those owners on a budget. Before the C-Section, the vet will administer the anesthetic first. This costly birthing method is one of the reasons why Pug puppies are so expensive. Natural birth So, can Pugs give birth naturally? Yes, if after consulting with your vet, both you and your vet agree that the natural birth is fine. By this time, her nest should be ready for her to give birth in. She will then lie down and pant heavily as if she was just running. This is normal. She is breathing heavily and her heart rate starts to increase. Labor can be strenuous and long. Sometimes the first puppy may not appear until 12 hours into labor. Once she has delivered her puppy one at a time , the mommy Pug will immediately nibble at the sack and lick the gooey sack away from her puppy. This is important because it allows the newborn puppy to breathe. Some mommy Pug may start to eat away at the umbilical cords and sack. Final thoughts If you suspect your Pug is pregnant, try your best to figure out when your Pug first became pregnant. This way, you can prepare and feed her accordingly. If you have a pregnant Pup, I hope this article was helpful and I wish you both all the very best! No material on this site is intended to be a substitute for professional veterinary advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Always seek the advice of your veterinarian or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition. Pug Dog Pregnancy Overview Whether you are purposefully breeding or your Pug may have accidentally become pregnant, this page will guide you through the basics of what to expect, how to know a Pug is pregnant, the labor process and care. Signs that a Pug is Pregnant You might be wondering if your Pug is pregnant and perhaps you can not get an appointment with the vet immediately. A dog's pregnancy is a fast one compared to humans; therefore a dog will show signs of being pregnant very quickly. The following are signs and symptoms that a Pug is pregnant: Week 1 - At this early stage, there will usually be no signs. Towards the end of Week 1, some dogs may have slight nausea that causes a decreased appetite. Some will be minimal, causing you to question if there are truly changes: She may be more tired than usual Her stomach may seem slightly swollen She may clean herself much more than normal Her nipples on her tummy seem larger than before During Week 2 there may still be some 'morning sickness' that causes nausea. This is often fleeting and a stronger, more heartier appetite will emerge as she transitions into Week 3 Week 4 - Signs are now very clear: The Pug's stomach will be distended, clearly showing that she is carrying a litter Her nipples will be enlarged and darkened as her body prepares for nursing; some that were previously flush with the skin will now be popped out. For those that have had been bred before, nipples may hang down as they fill with colostrum She will have strong nesting tendencies, wanting to prepare for the impending birth. Her appetite will have increased greatly. Pregnant dogs often eat up to twice as much as normal at this point. Weeks 5 and 6: Nearing the end of the gestation period, a Pug may shows the following signs: She may tired out very easily now The Pug often wants to remain at home and will usually be less social. This will be comprised of not just the pups each will be under one pound, weighing only mere ounces but also will fluids water, amniotic fluids and tissue amniotic sacs that surround each fetus. Wubbzy after giving birth - nursing her newborns Photo courtesy of Laura Velez Pug Pregnancy Facts A Pug will be pregnant for an average of 63 days, a range of 60 to 65 days is considered normal If your Pug is pregnant for more than 67 days, be sure to bring her to the veterinarian The average sized litter for Pugs is 4 to 6 puppies, though this can vary from 1 to 9 and still be considered normal. An x-ray ultrasounds are not typically done performed after 6 weeks the fetus's bones are not calcified before then will show you how many puppies there will be - this is very important so that you know that all came out during the birthing process Possible Risks 1 Since a Pug dog has a large head in comparison to its body, there is a chance that the dam will need to have a cesarean section. As soon as you know your dog is pregnant, you must have your veterinarian keep a close eye on her progress. Her hips and pelvis will be evaluated and judged if there is enough width for a natural birth. Your vet may choose to plan a C-Section or wait to see if there are any warning signs that the pups will not fit through the birth canal based on how many fetuses there are and their predicted size at the time of delivery. Their appetite will increase around week 3 or 4. Do not be concerned about feeding her too much at this time; she will crave the necessary calories needed for her pups and it will be your job to supply them. Everything that your Pug eats will be transferred to her growing puppies; therefore she should be allowed to eat as much as she wishes, when she wishes. Do please be sure to keep these meals and snack on the healthy side. While pregnant dogs do need a bit more fat in the diet, the goal is to increase nutrients while keeping food wholesome and healthy. Following home cooking suggestions, adding fresh raw baby carrots or steamed potatoes can be nutritious add-on ingredients to her diet. Supplements- There is no need to offer her additional vitamins and mineral supplements; and in fact doing so can cause health issues to both her and the fetuses. Do not give her extra calcium - This has been shown to: Increase her odds of developing eclampsia - a dangerous, life-threatening condition involving seizures and high blood pressure More difficult delivery Joint abnormalities in the puppies "Tiny little newborn Pug puppy" Tinkerbell Photo courtesy of: Laura Valez Activity - Unless there are any exercise restrictions set in place by the veterinarian, you will want to continue to walk your Pug daily at a nice pace; albeit perhaps a bit slower. This will allow her to stay fit and becoming sedentary can lead to a sore joints and muscles. Do not allow her to jump down from the sofa or any other height that would cause a jarring this should be the rule for all Pugs. During the final 2 weeks - depending on how many pups she is carrying - she may have trouble maneuvering around and walks can be put on pause at this time. Comfort - If your Pug has been sleeping in your bed, she will need her own personal space now. Her instinct to nest will be strong and the pregnancy will cause her to want to retreat to a 'nest' to rest. A quality canine bed with one or two soft baby blankets these are a good size for a dog to use as nesting materials , set in the corner of the family room will do just fine. Be sure to not set her up too far away from the 'action' as this will cause her to feel isolated and stressed. Other Dogs - If the sire is in the house, separate the two dogs starting at the beginning of Week 5. He can re-join her when the pups are 4 weeks old - with your supervision. Once they are fully weaned, he can have full access. If your pregnant Pug seems to be bothered by the presence of other dogs in the house male or female , surround her resting spot with portable baby gates. Your Dog Giving Birth At Home If it is determined by your vet that your Pug is able to give birth at home, you can prepare for this by sectioning off a quite corner in a room or creating a whelping box by placing a large canine bed inside a good-sized cardboard box with one side cut out for access. The bottom of the whelping box can have plastic layering placed down, followed by layers of clean newspaper; as the papers become bloodied and soaked with fluid, they can be quickly removed, revealing fresh paper. Supplies In the prepared room, be sure to have all supplies close at hand. If possible, have an assistant with you since this is not a job that one should handle alone. The items that you should have are: -Clean towels. The gestation period of a pug is very similar to other dog breeds. Anything between 58 and 68 days is considered typical, with the average length falling at 63 days from conception to delivery. Pug pregnancies may be relatively short but they go through stages like any other. By week eight you should already be prepared for labor. The best way to get to the bottom of this mystery is to visit your vet for diagnostic testing. If she is pregnant, congratulations. The gestation period for pugs is relatively short when compared to humans. Week 1 — Conception Care for mamma pug as normal Usually no signs Possible mild nausea and decreased appetite Some vomiting or discharge is normal Week 2 — Cell development. Embryo moves to the uterus. Continue with her normal diet and exercise as normal She might be more tired than usual You might notice slight swelling of the belly and nipples Possible continued nausea and sickness Week 3 — Fetus development approx. Still no need to change her routine Mamma pug might be hungrier and sleepier than usual Week 4 — The fetus is shaped like a very small pup with spinal and facial features 1. It is not possible to gauge the sex. She may get tired very easily She will probably want to stay at home and be less social She may retreat to a quiet, comfortable spot You can opt for a scan to determine the sex and see how many puppies are arriving Week 6 — Mamma pug will start to show and get visibly bigger by the day. The puppies are now developing their own unique markings. Provide a warm, quiet, and comfortable space to give birth Week 7 — The pregnancy has reached its 42nd day. The puppies are almost fully developed. Some pugs give birth prematurely so be prepared for early labor. Mom will be demonstrating nesting behavior Week 9 — Time to give birth! Be ready to help your pregnant pug when she does into labor. Much like other breeds, pugs have multiple puppies with each litter. Pugs average between four and six pups with each litter. But remember, this is just an average. You might want to opt for a diagnostic ultrasound scan to identify how many puppies are growing. Any number of puppies, from as few as one to as many as nine is possible. The number of puppies will impact labor. A large litter can place a lot of strain on the mother and a cesarean may be needed. Ask your vet for more information. Nurture her with nutrition Make sure your pregnant pug is getting a sufficient and nutritious diet. Pregnant pugs eat a lot. Expect a marked increase in her appetite and offer her larger, more frequent, portions of food accordingly. Usually, the largest appetite increase is observed at three to four weeks. But do not deny a pregnant pug their much-needed calories. She will be craving sustenance to keep her pups growing and should be allowed to eat according to her appetite. Something owners can do is control the quality of the food they offer a pregnant pug. This is an important time to keep things healthy. Give her foods jam-packed with nutrients. Avoid supplements at this time. This is a hotly debated issue. Some people swear by the benefits of nutritional supplements for pregnant pugs, calcium in particular. But research has suggested that doing so can actually cause undue harm, increase risk factors, and cause difficult deliveries. Focus on healthy foods and plenty of water. Provide safety and comfort Pregnant pugs might start to crave quiet time alone. She will need space to start nesting. Let her spend as much time as she needs preparing her nest and resting before the labor. You might want to invest in a comfortable bed and soft blankets. Set up a cozy corner away from any busy thoroughfares but not so isolated that she will feel lonely, nervous, or stressed. If she starts to seem nervous, surround her nest with baby gates to offer her extra privacy and comfort. Separate mamma pug from the sire if living under the same roof. This should be done at around the five-week stage. He can rejoin mom and the litter once the puppies are a bit older in a safe, supervised environment. Around the 4 week mark is just right. Maintain an appropriate exercise regime Though exercise is still important for a pregnant pug, it must be moderated. Overexertion could be extremely harmful. Ask your veterinarian if they would recommend any restrictions for your pug in particular. The most important thing is to steer her clear of jumping and strenuous activities. They will be able to tell you whether your pug is suitable for a home birth or if she will require a cesarean section in practice. Prepare a quiet corner with a whelping box. There are many tutorials online that will help you prepare a suitable birth environment. Check out this one below: In general, a whelping box usually consists of a large box with a comfortable dog bed placed inside. One side of the box can be cut out in order to give you access and help mom out if needed. Clean newspapers are the perfect bedding and easily replaceable when dirty. Make sure you have everything you need for when labor arrives. Be prepared early, as some pugs go into early labor. Keep supplies at close reach and arrange for someone to help you once the labor starts. The following items are labor must-haves: Cleaning spray.

Poodle Clips Overview One of the most fascinating and interesting elements of the Poodle breed are the amazing clips of the coat. The owner of a pet Poodle may simply choose to keep the entire coat trimmed to a certain length.Or the owner of a pet or show Poodle may want the appropriate show cut. The AKC requires certain cuts depending on the age of the Poodle. Let's take a look at the proper Poodle clips for AKC conformation and what each clip entails. When showing, this is the only acceptable clip for Poodles under 1 year old. Many pet owners opt for this cut as well, as it allows for the Poodle to have full coverage over the body, without exposing any skin, except for the dog's small paws. When skin is exposed it is subjected to the sun and can develop possible sores from playing around in the yard or when exposed skin is resting against carpeting. With this type of clip, the Poodle's face, throat, paws and base of the tail are shaved. The entire shaven foot is visible. You may opt to have a pompon on the end of the tail. In order to give a neat appearance and a smooth unbroken line, shaping of the coat is done with scissors to even things up and get rid of any long, straggly hairs. The face, front legs between poms and elbow, hind quarter to the pom area and with the exception of the hip rosettes, feet, and base of tail are all shaved very closely. The pack area is left very, very long and scissored into shape. The top knot is left very long and pulled into a ponytail. The tail is given a very large pompon. Poms on the legs are started just above the wrist and hock joints and end just above the feet. They are also scissored round. The hip rosettes are placed directly over the Poodle's hip joint. These are also scissored round. The reason that this is allowed is that the only element which is "modified" is the lack of the hip rosettes, which are optional. English Saddle With this clip, the Poodle's face, front leg between pom and pack, crescent on the flank, base of tail, separations between poms on rear legs and paws are all closely shaved. The pack is left rather full and is scissored into shape. The top knot on the head is left long and pulled back into a pony tail. The poms on front legs are leg long and started above the wrist joint and ends above the feet. The area over the hips and flanks are scissored shorter into a smooth blanket. The tail's pom is left long and shaped into a ball. The poms on hind legs are rounded off and spaced evenly apart. The bottom pom begins just above the hock and ends above the feet. With this Poodle clip, the face, feet, throat, and base of the tail are shaved close, leaving a scissored cap on the top of the head. The rest of the dog's body, and legs are clipped or scissored to follow the outline of the dog leaving a short, soft blanket of coat approximately 1 inch long. The hair on the legs may be slightly longer than that on the body. There is a nice, fluffy pompon at the end of the Poodle's tail. It is also referred to as the 'Second Puppy Clip'. The hair on the top may be left puffed out or pulled into a topknot. The coat is allowed to be very low on the legs, only showing a bit of the paw. It is a nice clip that offers a pleasant shape while not exposing any skin. Since coat growth can quickly cause this clip to loose shape, it is retouched approximately 5 to days before a show event. Kennel Clip - This is a pet clip, meaning that many pet owners opt for this easy clip and it is not permissible in the AKC show ring. Body hair is short all over and just scissored into shape. The top knot and tail are left longer than the body hair. The length of the body hair is completely up to the owner, some opt for a shorter length in the hotter months and longer in colder months. Lamb Clip - This is very similar to the Kennel Clip. The only difference is that the coat is left longer. With this Poodle clip, the dog's face, feet, and base of tail are shaved closely. Body hair is left fluffy but not too long and then scissored into shape. The legs are shaped into a pom at the bottom starting just above the wrist and the hock ending just above the feet. The length of the hair is up to the owner, however, most opt for a very short clip. Dutch Clip - This is an interesting pet clip. The Poodle's face, neck area, belly band, feet, and base of tail are shaved closely. The belly band may be shaved thin or wide, as shown in the photo. The lines between the withers along the spine and between the hips along the spine are also shaved. These lines are very narrow. The top of the head, the legs, and tail are left very fluffy. As you can imagine, the coat cannot be brushed in the traditional sense, cords must be separated out by hand. This used to be a very popular way to keep the coat long ago, however now this is exceedingly rare since most pet owners simply do not have the time to braid the section, keep the coat clean or wait for the exceedingly long drying time that comes with such large dread-lock type sections. This an exceptionally difficult style to do and to maintain which keeps owners away even if the look is a desired one. All rights reserved. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Share Us. Use tab to navigate through the menu items. If you have to pay a beautician to clip a Standard Poodle every four to six weeks it can prove to be a very expensive outlay. You can ring round for prices, but do be sure to choose a trimmer that likes the breed. Find a kind, competent trimmer. Standard Poodles should enjoy their trip to the hairdresser. You may decide to learn how to clip your pet yourself. If you intend to show your dog, it is essential to learn to trim the dog yourself, unless you happen to be rich. Standard Poodles people are generally most friendly and helpful; you may find somebody in your area that will assist you. It is not advisable to learn to trim on a puppy. All puppies wriggle and you could become exceedingly frustrated, which will do neither you nor your puppy any good at all. Even the most perfectly behaved dog can react nervously to a novice trimmer, pulling its feet away continuously when it normally sits as still as a statue. If you do not own an older dog that is used to being coiffured, then do borrow one when setting forth on your first adventure into trimming. There are books which give step-by-step trimming advice, but these alone are not a magic formula, and first hand help is the best. You must learn the difference between a painful, arthritic joint and a dog playing up because it can or is nervous and worried. Learning handling skills is every bit as important as learning the actual clipping. Before you go rushing out to buy expensive grooming equipment, such as clippers, driers, scissors, and more, take a few lessons and watch, watch, watch. It is better to find out if you are suited to the job before spending vast sums of money. Setting up can prove expensive, but the rewards of trimming your own dogs are many. Trimming is a most satisfying and worthwhile experience; if you love it. CLIPPERS Clipping dogs comes easy to some people, while others have to work extremely hard to get good enough results to walk out in the street with the dog, let alone win with their charges in the show ring. The whole procedure becomes less terrifying and less of an ordeal with practice. If you really do not enjoy clipping your Standard Poodle it will probably be better if you take it to the breeder, or the Poodle Parlour. For those with a burning ambition here a few tips to try to help you, although watching a live performance is also essential. All trims require the feet, face, and tail to be clipped so we will deal with these first, before looking at the different trims and how to do them. Firstly, having established that we have a good, solid, stable table, standing in a sensible position, preferably against a wall in a corner, so that the learner trimmer is more effectively in control, and not worried about the dog moving, and falling off the table and hurting itself, we need a good pair of clippers. There are many good clippers on the market today. It is best to buy the best, and I recommend getting in touch with a good grooming equipment outlet for a catalogue to enable you to see what is on offer. Another good way to find out more about grooming is to attend one of the marvellous Grooming Road Shows that go around the country, as advertised in the weekly dog papers, by breed clubs, or on line. Today we have multiple choices, including the cord-free. Your groomer, or breeder, or teacher will have shown you their preference, but if you can visit a grooming seminar or outlet where you can try different make, and shapes, you will be able to decide what is best for you. A light clipper, a more manual type, cord free, interchangeable blades or sliding all in one — variable sizing ones; usually the cheaper versions. Cordless clippers are a great asset, but fairly expensive, electric clippers such as Andis and Oster are popular, light and easy to handle. They have interchangeable blades, and they come with a quick guide to attaching and removing blades, fitting attachments, essential maintenance and important warnings. There are also a videos, and help and advice. For trimming the feet, face and tail you will need a number 10 or 15 blade. Most clippers come with a free No 10 blade. Closer clipping is usually for the show dog, or very thick coated dog. Clippers come with cleaning fluid for the blades, or you may have to purchase this. Each blade should be cleaned after use, and sprayed with a cool-lubricant during use. During use the blade must be checked on your face for heat. With a novice it may take some time to do the clipping, so it is essential to check the blade is not getting too hot to use. It can burn the skin and put the dog off clipping for a long time. Clean the debris off the clipper after use. For the pet dog a winter blade such as the Andis or Mastergroom No 4. And in summer a 5 or 7 can be used on the body, and body and the legs if Sporting style is preferred, depending on thickness of coat. The professional groomer will have many pairs of scissors for different trimming, but for the novice, or pet owner trimming their own dog, one pair will suffice to begin with. Try the different scissors and see which suits you. They are available from retail outlets, at dog shows, and grooming seminars. What is comfortable to one person may be too heavy, too short, too professional or wrong handed. Talk to an expert, professional outlet for advice on what best to start with, before forking out a large sum for something unsuitable, when a reasonably priced pair of scissors will be perfectly adequate. There is a lot of scissor work to be done on a Standard Poodle unless it is cut down in pet trim, and only practise will allow the groomer to achieve a smooth, almost satin finish to the well-cared-for coat. Finishing is an art that some excel in more than others. Different scissors give different finishes and the groomer must try several pairs of scissors in order to find the pair which is right for them. Most sales outlets are happy to help you choose the right type. Scissors vary in price and in order to sustain the outstanding presentation that some groomers achieve, it is imperative to buy quality products, such as clippers, scissors as well as shampoo and finishing sculpture conditioner. It really does make a difference and the investment is worthwhile. Finishing is achieved by literally skimming over the coat with the scissors accurately placed to edge the coat. As the Poodle coat constantly grows and moves, and has a natural tendency to curl, despite straightening conditioners, this finish will not last but still the dog will look expertly smart for the time being. Good scissoring is an art. It is fascinating to watch groomers from different parts of the world scissoring in their own style to achieve perfection. By attending Grooming Seminars you can see this interesting skill in action, and will see that different groomers have their individual styles. Some fluff the hair outwards before commencing scissoring, and some comb it upwards. Some will say one way is the only correct way, but I have seen dogs turned out to sheer perfection both ways. The same goes for how you hold a pair of scissors. There is a correct way of holding scissors, using thumb and fourth finger that will give you more control, once you have mastered it. With all styles, the Poodle will need to have his feet, face and tail clipped. We will deal with this first. There are certain rules to observe. Apart from the feet, always use clippers with the growth of coat. Where the face is concerned, always clip away from the eye. Unless you are experienced using clippers, it is quite likely that you will need time to get round all the delicate clipped parts of the Poodle, so use clipper lubricant frequently, every five minutes or so, and check the blade of the clipper for heat by putting it on your face. As soon as it feels more than a little warm, change the blade, or stop until the blade has cooled. Dogs have been burned with hot blades and it takes a long time for them to regain their confidence. It is best to clip clean hair if possible. As a novice it is better to use a No 10 to start with. It may not leave such a tidy finish, but it is very safe with all colours. THE FEET Nearly all dogs have ticklish feet, so they tend to wriggle or pull the foot away from you when you start clipping their toes. However, they soon get used to it and cooperate well. It is best to hold just above the foot firmly, but do not squeeze. Be sure your dog is standing square and is comfortable before taking up the foot, start right rear, front right, left rear, and left front. This way none get forgotten. Be sure to keep the dogs leg under its body, if you pull it out sideways the dog will automatically try to pull it back, and a battle of your doing with arise. Gentle press the toes apart with your second finger and clip all the hair between the toes. And do take special care no to twist the foot as you clip. It is essential to learn the knack of flexing, or turning your wrist every-which-way in order to complete a neat job of clipping the feet. Clip from the toe nail up to the base of the toe. At first you will probably find this difficult, but with practice it will become second nature, with a bit of luck. Some people never feel easy with clipping. However, most enthusiasts find it satisfying, and calming and you are at one with your dog. Better to leave the clipped area low rather than take too make off and make your dog look as though it has chicken feet. Turn or slightly raise the foot in order to clip underneath the foot. Blade No 10 - 15 or 30 for a closer finish on the dark colours. The show dogs are clipped closer and more frequently with a No 15 or 30, keeping the blade as flat as possible but without putting undue pressure on the skin. The hair should never be clipped so close that it cuts, grazes or damages the skin. White dogs often have more sensitive skin so take this into consideration. Do be careful to tighten any loose skin with your fingers before running over with the clipper. Clip under the eye to the inner corner, then from between the eyes at the stop down to tip of nose. Now clip from under the eye towards the muzzle, to the nose. Repeat on other side of face. Clip the chin from edge of mouth to nose, taking care to tighten loose skin at all times. For the show Poodle the neck is clipped into a U-shape, shaving hair down to an inch or two above the breastbone, depending on style of mane, and emphasis required to show off length of neck. TAIL Stand the dog away from you, or to the side. Clip from the base of the body to a third of the tail length, leaving enough hair on the tail to leave a pom-pom, or plumage. Clip underneath the tail and hygiene area, taking care around the sensitive anus area. No 15 is generally used. Most pet Standard Poodles are in the Sporting trim for ease, comfort and efficiency. Plus it looks elegant and eye-catching. The lamb trim and the sporting trim is the most popular for pet dogs, the sporting trim is now widely seen in many parts of the world. In the show ring over the past few years we have seen a change in trimming. Not all Standard Poodles are shown in the traditional Lion clip. The puppy Lion has become increasingly popular. And more sculptured trimming is seen, sometimes to a degree of exaggeration, it has to be said. Here are some of the more well known trims for show and pet Standard Poodles. Clip from base of head, just beneath the ears, down the top, and underneath of neck. Lift leg and clip under the arm taking care not to catch the loose skin under the arm, and along the chest to the groin. Clip neck to just above shoulder level, along the back to base of tail, and just above the hip, then along and downwards over rib cage to groin. Clip underneath, stomach, groin, carefully taking hair from around nipples and genitals always holding the delicate parts as you go to ensure safety. Brush through remaining hair, trousers, topknot and tail, removing all tangles with slicker brush and wide tooth comb, and where necessary, to prevent causing the dog too much discomfort, the mat-breaker. Anti-tangle conditioner can be used. Bath the dog in a suitable natural enhancing shampoo such as tea tree and lavender oil, or protein coat strengthening formula with consideration to colour and condition of coat. Use a quality conditioner such as sculpture finish, to aid scissoring, or a stay-in conditioner. Blow the coat dry, brushing all the time in sections from bottom of leg upwards, with pin or slicker. Bathing the hair will lift it slightly so tidy any clipped areas where necessary by going over with same depth blade as before. Hem by scissoring round bottom of leg hair. Feet should only barely be seen. Scissor the legs going with the contours of the limbs, using a silhouette line, with scissors pointing downwards or upwards but never crossways apart from when hemming starting from bottom of leg and keeping the line going to the top, then taking the next line and repeating the process, finally skimming across the hair to blend in. Holding muzzle, comb hair forward and scissor topknot across the eye, upwards, comb hair to the left and trim across the top of the ears and back of neck, then repeat on right side. Trim over top taking care to leave a nice top, but being sure the dog can see clearly. Here the feet and face are clipped as usual, and the body clipped with a coarser blade to leave about enough hair to give the appearance of close wool or astrakhan. With No 5 or No 7 blade, clip neck from base of head, down over shoulder, down back to tail, down and along ribcage and under chest, stomach and groin area. Clip back leg, inside and out to an inch above hock joint. Then, with an eye line to balance, clip inside and out of front leg to same level. Bath and dry as for Lamb trim. Scissor the topknot as for Lamb. Comb outwards and scissor bracelets into oval shape. Trim tail as for Lamb. Most Standard Poodles look glamorous in this eye-catching trim. Blade No .Clip under neck to point of breastbone and on top to about 5cm above withers. Taking a direct line and shave a blades width between the shoulders, across withers, continue the line to the base of tail. Clip abdomen from groin to navel and then downwards, incorporating the insides of the thighs. Brush through entire unclipped hair. Bath in suitable shampoo and blow dry as for Lamb. Go over clipped part on body to ensure a tidy finish. Scissor the top and tail as for Lamb. Scissor back legs to neat finish, leaving a pronounced curve at edge of clipped parts. Scissor the front area leaving pronounced curve to clipped area. The feet, face and tail are clipped as normal. The body hair is kept long, but is sculpted with scissors into an attractive shape to enhance the body contours. Fluff up all body hair, and then allow it to fall, or the dog to shake itself. Scissor the coat to an even length all over the body, including the legs. As the coat grows in length, scissor the hair slightly shorter from the base of the tail, gradually blending the hair up towards the body to obtain an effective, easy-on-the-eye, shape. This clip is sometime called the T clip, although it is not strictly as acute as the Scandinavian outline in all countries. For the novice it is a good idea to put a narrow bandage around the dog at just below this point to distinguish an even line and be sure the balance is right. Roughly one third is trimmed shorter while two thirds is left for the mane. Cut with the scissors held straight, up the edge of your line or bandage from the near side, up one side, over body and down the other side. This is more easily achieved when the dog is standing square with its bottom towards you. Scissor back legs to an even length taking in consideration of rear angulations, which are accentuated. Once you are well practised with scissors and have a good eye, using a photograph of a beautifully contoured dog, and copy the up-to-date trimming. Next, flick the mane with the comb, allow the dog to shake and the hair to settle, then scissor round, rather like skimming over the coat, keeping scissors level, to achieve a blend where mane meets shorter back hair to enhance the appearance of a well defined neck. Shape round mane, shaping incline from brisket up towards ear. Scissor the front legs to tubular shape, moulding or sculpturing to blend where they join the mane at elbow. Scissor the tail as for Lamb. This trim takes longer to wash, longer to dry, and a lot longer to scissor to perfection. The scissoring here is artistically demanding. However, when it is carried out by an expert, the result is stunning. It is always advisable to clip the mane in before the back end to make it easier to balance. Usually the dog will have been trimmed into Puppy Lion before this so the mane line will already be taken care of. It is useful to have a photograph of a beautifully turned out Standard Poodle to copy from when first attempting this trim. Clip feet face and tail. Groom, bath, condition and blow the hair dry as for puppy. If you have not already parted the coat behind the rib cage as in Puppy Lion, do this first. It is always advisable to clip the mane in before the back end to make it easier to achieve a good balance. Again, a bandage can be used for forming lines. This is always a good idea as you can tie it around at the given points and move it up or down to achieve a balance before putting your scissors in. Apply the bandage about two inches 10cm above the wrist, the first joint above the foot look to see if this will allow you to scissor a nice oval bracelet. Cut above the bandage line, clip with No 10 up the front leg to remove the hair up to the joint of the elbow. Do not clip over the elbow. Trim bracelet by combing out and tipping ends to an oval shape. It is a good idea to leave the bracelet slightly longer than you think is right, so that you can look at your work and take off more if necessary. Scissor round bottom of mane to achieve a ball finish, curved scissors are good for this job. It will take time and patience to learn this art, but it will come with practice. Again it is useful to have a photograph to copy from. Now for the tricky part! Again, it is a good idea to use a bandage about one inch thick to help guide your cutting lines. Feel for hock joint first joint above back foot and apply the bandage about one inch above. Feel for knee joint and apply second bandage just above to define. Stand back and check that there is a good balance between the three defined points. Move the bandage slightly up or down until you feel happy that the dog looks right. With the scissors, cut a thin line above the bandage. These points can be carefully clipped, or more defined with scissors. When starting on the other leg do check that your lines correspond from behind. Be careful not to make your scissor or clipped lines too wide as this may completely spoil your finished picture. Comb hair upwards and allow it to settle. Scissor each section to a smooth rounded finish. The pack over loin and hip can be trimmed evenly to a length of about an inch. Poetry in motion is what you are trying to achieve. This trim is far from being easy and takes much practice to get right. Scissor the tail. In England this trim is less seen now than it used to be, as our Kennel Club does not demand it. Certainly it takes less time than the Traditional or Puppy, but there is still a lot of work here to make it as beautiful as it should look. This trim is mostly seen on the Standard Poodle, though favoured in countries such as Japan in all three sizes, but is not popular with the general public as it is rather revelling. Clip feet, face and tail, bath, condition and blow the hair dry as for Puppy. Cut in front end mane as for Lion, including scissoring to finish. For beginners it is a good idea to place a saucer on the hip joint to define a rosette. Take the scissors and cut round the saucer. Remove the saucer and you will reveal a large rosette. Depending on whether the dog is longer in back than it should be, or perfectly proportioned the saucer can be moved backward or forward to achieve the best balance before cutting commences. With No 10 blade, start clipping from a position just above the hock joint and clip up to your newly made rosette. Clip round this being careful not to clip the rosette itself. Clip the narrow area between the end of mane and the rosette. Lifting hair with comb, scissor round rosette to achieve a smart round puff of hair. Trim tail as for other trims. Pet owners almost invariably skimp on brushing their dogs which then come into the grooming salon every six weeks or so with mats and tangles in their coat. Once upon a time, the only considerate and kind way to deal with such felted mats was to get underneath the mat with a fine blade and clip it off. Now, with some conditioning spray, combs and mat-breakers, the groomer has a wider choice and more capacity to sort out a neglected coat. But still, the prime consideration must be to the dog, and if the best solution is to clip off the coat then this must be done. It will grow again. If you brush and comb your Standard Poodle on a regular basis his coat will always look smart, even after a dig in the garden or getting thoroughly muddy, once dry the coat will brush out marvellously. If you are growing the coat to show your Poodle, new grooming techniques will have to be employed. If you want to show then it is essential for you to be able to bath and clip and groom your Poodle yourself, otherwise the procedure will be very expensive. Trimming a pet is one thing, turning out a show dog is something else, and takes many people years to perfect. Luckily Poodle people are generally very kind and helpful. Breeders and expert trimmers can and do help novice exhibitors with their trimming. The best advice is to watch, listen and learn. In time you will, hopefully, be trimming as well as the best. It is a good idea to have a professional photograph of a dog in show trim on the wall when you start scissoring the mane and legs of your Poodle, and try to copy it. Remember no artist ever painted a masterpiece the first time he picked up a paintbrush. It will take time, sweat and tears to perfect scissoring skills, unless you are extremely blessed. Your Poodle show dog will need brushing everyday, or at least three or four times a week, depending on its individual coat and whether or not it is at the age between ten and fourteen months when it is changing its coat from puppy to adult. If you brush the dog every day your task of growing the coat will be easier. Brush carefully each strand of hair. To do this lay your Poodle on its side, start brushing at the bottom of the ribcage, part layers with a tail comb or your fingers and brush the hair downwards. Brush each layer until you reach the spine; include the neck hair, top and ears. The turn your dog over and start the other side. I often do this sitting on the floor watching television, the dog relaxed in front of me. If you have attended shows you will have seen Poodles being groomed this way. All dogs are thoroughly groomed before they go into the show ring. De-matting - tangles that have formed overnight on a dog going through a coat change, needs care. Often it is more beneficial to split the hair with your fingers. Wet hair is more pliable and not quite so susceptible to breakage. Comb with a wide tooth comb, never a fine one. Use a good conditioner if the coat is dry. Spray-in conditioners are good and can be used at any time. Spray from the bottom of the ribcage up, parting the hair as you go to ensure all the layers are conditioned and the solution has not just run over the top. When preparing a coat for the show ring, use the conditioner without oil and rinse. Show dogs must have their fun regardless of coat. Exercise is essential to a healthy life. Bones are essential to clean healthy teeth. The topknot can be protected with a snood. Consider what you are spraying into and around your dogs face, nose and mouth. Some sprays and lacquers are toxic. This will be good practice for later on — for both of you! Yes, haircuts are essential for Poodles. Their thick, long, curly coats are prone to tangling and trapping debris. When will my Poodle puppy need haircuts? Then, at around four months old, they will shed their puppy coats and start to grow out their rougher adult coats. Frequency As a general rule, Poodles should have their coats clipped every weeks once their adult coats grow out, whatever your desired length. This is because they grow so quickly and can become matted just as fast! What equipment should I use? There are three main types of dog grooming scissors; straight scissors, curved scissors, and thinning shears, and they all perform slightly differently. Straight grooming scissors are a multi-task tool, they have straight blades for general, basic grooming, creating straight lines in the coat, and adding the finishing touches to haircuts. Curved dog grooming shear has a curved blade that can be used to fine-tune and shape specific areas of the coat, such as the paws and hindquarters. Thinning shears have a cutting edge on one blade and teeth on the other, and there are also double thinners that have teeth on both blades. They are designed to remove lots of hair in even sections for a natural finish, and they can also be used to blend out the harsh lines from clippers and texturize the coat. Or, if you just need something for the occasional touch-up between visits to the groomer, a simple pair of electrical motor clippers will do just fine. Electric motor clippers are also good for keeping short coats short. You should also be aware of the types of blades that come with clippers. The higher the number of the blade, the more hair that it will remove. Or, you can get guards that fit a single blade to customize the length, which is a lot more convenient. Start by showing them the equipment and getting them used to the sight and sound of it before you cut any hair. Reward them just for being around it and then try cutting a small section of hair. If they react well, reward them again, and then do another section. Keep rewarding them as you go and again after the haircut is finished. Do it in a well-lit, comfortable part of the home that your pup can stand up in. Once you get them into a routine — keep it up! Work your way down the legs first, then from the neck to the hindquarters, or vice versa, and then the tail. Take care with the feet, underside, and head, shielding their eyes from falling fur. Use long strokes and go from the neck down to the back legs. How to deal with grooming anxiety If your pup is afraid of the scissors or clippers, take it really slowly and try to make it an enjoyable experience. You can do this by breaking up the haircut into smaller sessions to make it less stressful and taking breaks in between each one. Give your dog lots of praise and a reward every time you take a break and ask another family member to comfort them during the haircut. You can start brushing your Poodle from any age. To brush them, simply go in the direction of hair growth using short strokes. Hold the fur at the base with your free hand to remove knots, and use a mat remover for any stubborn mats. Bathing a Poodle puppy As for bathing, you should give your Poodle pup their first proper bath at months old to help them shed their puppy coat, unless they get seriously dirty before that. However, you can give your pup a bath any time after weeks of age to get them used to the sensation, but avoid overbathing them, as this will strip the fur of its natural oils and make it dry and brittle. Once they have their adult coats, your Poodle pup will need a bath once a month. You can even buy shampoo that is designed especially for Poodle coats. To give your Poodle a bath, lather up their wet fur with the shampoo, massage it in, leave it for as long as directed on the bottle, and rinse thoroughly. Follow up with conditioner if necessary. Starting out just training her own Border Collies, she gradually expanded to local classes and seminars, now she travels as far as Europe and teaches students all over the world on how to train their dogs in a positive, bonding, game-based way. She is known for her clear, step-by-step training that lets beginners and advanced dog trainers see lasting results very quickly.