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Our breeding stock dogs are own by us and include females of our breeding program and direct German SV import. They healthy, beautiful and smart. We only use pure Show-line bloodlines and our dogs are proven on a Show ring and Working field. All dogs live in our home, along with children, farm animals, and family and friends visiting often. We take great care of our dogs; they are fed nutritious diet , have regular vet visits , are given vitamins and supplements and are truly loved. It is our pleasure to share the joy of owning a great German Shepherd Dog with you! Dogs are not our whole life. But they make our life whole. Sure thing! We will be delighted to help and answer any questions! Our puppy inquiry form allows you to contact us and learn about our process with just a few clicks. We have reservations and waiting lists for each litter. All litters are whelped in our warm home. We stay with the female during the entire time of whelping and closely observe to make sure she gets help immediately if needed. Once pups are born, we let momma clean them, bound and have each pup latch on her nipple. We measure each puppy's weight at birth and record time of birth. Pups spend their first weeks in the whelping box, and we keep monitoring their growth closely. Measure their weight and taking pictures daily. By this time many are already sold, have their names picked, and owners are waiting for them eagerly. All pups come with a full veterinary exam, first set of vaccinations and deworming done by a breeder at least three times. We supply their puppy record as a fun keepsake. All pups are registered with American Kennel Club and come with registration forms. We also provide four-generation pedigree and a microchip as a complimentary service. All sales are completed with a signed contract, written guarantees and sales receipt. We offer Boarding to all our pups! We can not underestimate the importance of training your dog. Whether you want to compete in sport with your dog, participate in dog shows, certify him or her as a therapy dog or simply raise a family pet and personal companion - training is equally important! We ask that the owner spends at least an hour a day to train their new dog. Trained dog is a much happier dog to own! If you are interested to have a private class, need help finding or joining a local club, seeking a handler or with any other questions - please do not hesitate to contact us! We will do our best to help and contact you with a right person or get you the right resource. If you are awaiting for your pup's arrival - use the time to educate yourself. We have a list of recommended books, training websites and pages to follow. Doing self-study and watching online videos is an easy and free way to get ready for your puppy. YOU are the most important part of your dog's training! We do not support Pet Shop training centers or "all-positive" training methods. We can't promise you it will be easy, but we do promise the rewards are going to worth every effort! Paul Airport. Because our kennel is also our home, we ask that you contact us to schedule a visit. Our dogs have mellow, affectionate, and playful temperaments, love water, and especially children. They are living as trustworthy family members, as emotional support dogs, service dogs, and medical alert dogs around the world! Content Link Block Polarbear is our Name. Or perhaps just looking for the total package in a dog? Health and longevity remains the foundation of all we do. Take for example, the standard German Shepherd dog as seen in this photo: View fullsize …Dogs bred with these traits often end up with crippling disabilities and premature death. This is so inhumane. The focus of our kennel, on the other hand, is to produce dogs with straight backs, broad heads, and short coats, as in the photo of Polarbear's foundation sire, Shack Von Hammer below. Aside from their magnificent appearance, Polarbear White Shepherds are calm, sociable, and affectionate. They are gifted empaths and comedians at heart. Their goofy personalities and love of children make them perfect nannies for even the youngest child. They love water, retrieving frisbees, and diving into the occasional swimming pool. What kind of dogs do all that? And they are living fulfilled lives, as medical detection dogs, service dogs, and family and companion dogs in nearly every state in the United States! World Map of our Clients Before leaving, you might like to click on some of our pages. Our "Words of Warning" for those purchasing a purebred dog for the first time on the internet is a favorite. Just remember this quote…. No amount of training or special food will fix a problem dog. If you want to view videos of our dogs, check out our Youtube Channel page. If you appreciate our breeding philosophy and love what we do, do let us know by becoming a fan!

If you are looking into investing in either one of the breeds, try checking out your local shelters to see if you can adopt one. They are generally much cheaper, and it is always a bonus to give a pup home. The blend of the Boston Terrier with the English Bulldog is not as popular and harder to find in a shelter. Make sure when you are purchasing a Boston Bulldog from a breeder that you check out the health of the parent pups. Ask to see veterinary reports and evidence of health checks. No reputable breeder will refuse this, especially. Any English Bulldog mix is going to be gassy. The anatomy of the English Bulldog is to blame for this, unfortunately, although their diet can play a role as well. Bulldogs fart excessively because they tend to have highly sensitive stomachs. Their digestive system does not digest food well and causes consistently upset stomachs. Instead of having a longer muzzle, they have flatter faces that make it difficult for them to eat at a consistent pace. They tend to eat quickly and improperly, taking in far too much air at the same time as their food. Diet factors into their farty behavior as well. All the muscle hides a sensitive soul. They are a pup of averages between the two parent breeds in their build, energy levels, and health. Even though they are agile, they still have a more muscular build than other dogs that share a similar height. Even with the muscles, English Boston-Bulldogs have sensitive souls. The tender-hearted dogs are alert to the emotions running in the air around them and should be treated with patience. Being left alone for extended amounts of time leads to sadness and sometimes even depression. Although these dogs can have a stubborn streak, remember their sensitivity during training. You will get the best response out of them with a firm hand coupled with patience and kindness. Even with a mutually bloody past, the blend of these two dogs makes for a mellow companion. Both the English Bulldog and the Boston Terrier have rather gruesome histories. Unlike breeds like the Pit Bull or Rottweiler, however, they have lost most of the aggressive reputation that typically comes with a bloody past. Most of this is because of their sweet dispositions. The Boston Terrier is one of the few breeds developed in America. They came from breeds that were pit fighter dogs originating in Boston, Massachusetts. These dogs were made to be small but fierce. In the late s, the wealthy began to have some of these dogs interbred to create the Boston Terrier, although the Terrier part is not through any relation to the family. The English Bulldog initially comes from the Mastiff family, having specific relations to the Asiatic Mastiff. This Mastiff was much bigger than dogs in the Mastiff family today. English Bulldogs were bred from these dogs to be smaller yet still muscular. Since then, however, both of the breeds have become beloved companion dogs with mellow, happy personalities. They take everything in stride, and as long as they are with their beloved owners, they are happy to be taken around or live in a wide variety of different living situations. However, as they start to age, they quickly begin to mellow out and calm down. They always retain their curious nature and goofy personality, though. This makes them an excellent, lower-maintenance dog breed. Some people say that Boston-Bulldogs make good watchdogs because of their alertness. However, they will need a good deal of training because they are friendly and enjoy being around people, strangers or no. Are These Dogs Good for Families? They are patient and sweet, making them excellent dogs for families with kids. They have a heavier build that makes it harder for them to be inappropriately handled by kids, keeping them a safer dog for kids. However, most people will be pleased to know that Boston-Bulldogs typically get along well with other animals. Get them used to other animals, and brush up on their social skills by having them around new people and taking them out to dog parks. Those who share this version of the story consider the Olde Boston Bulldogge as the original Boston Bulldog, a dog resulting from the cross between Bulldogs and Terriers in the s and bred for pest control, guarding, but also for companionship. The most accepted version of the facts considers the Boston Bulldog as a crossbreed, a hybrid dog that is half Boston Terrier, half English Bulldog. While the origin of this crossbreed is unknown, it probably originated in the Boston area, in Massachusetts USA in the early s for fighting and hunting purposes. The English Bulldog Hailing from the United Kingdom, English Bulldogs were originally bred as fighting dogs for bullbaiting and bull-holding. When these cruel activities were banned in the early 19th century, the breed was developed to create a more affectionate and non-aggressive dog that turned into a popular pet and mascot among the British. The breed has been recognised in the end of the 19th century by the American Kennel Club and the first dogs being mixed were from Boston, thus the breed designation. Once bred to be pit fighter dogs, Boston Terriers are now considered friendly and gentle pets. They make great therapy dogs and excel in sports, such as agility and obedience. Boston Bulldogs have short, fine, and soft hair that comes in a variety of colors, including brown, black, white, red, fawn, and tuxedo a color pattern occurring when dogs are one color, with a white patch on the chest, chin, and feet. Being a small to medium-sized dog, the Boston Bulldog weighs between 9 and 16 kg lbs and are 38 to 46 cm inches tall. Females are smaller and lighter than the males. Boston Bulldogs are really nice to be around, being affectionate, calm, and lovable dogs, quite intelligent and adaptable too. They are very good with children, having a stable character and playful attitude, without the yappy tendencies of their smaller Terrier relatives. As puppies, they are quite energetic, demanding a lot of attention, but their liveliness tends to decrease with age. They are devoted to their owners and while active, they easily adapt to different lifestyles. Boston Bulldogs are loyal dogs, with a curious and interesting personality, that combine the best of their parent breeds in terms of temperament. They also make good watchdogs, as they are alert to their environment. Always happy, the Boston Bulldog comes as a great choice as a pet, one to be included in all family activities. Trainability People-oriented, loyal, and intelligent, Boston Bulldogs gather all the traits that make a dog easy to train. In fact, they learn very quickly, obeying cues easily and responding well to training. They can be somewhat sensitive, so the best training method includes a kind, but firm and consistent approach. Sticking to rules is important, as these dogs like to know what is expected of them, as to comply and get the desired praise and attention they crave. Likewise, socialisation is important. Because his ancestors were bred to be fighting dogs, the Boston Bulldog needs to be exposed to positive interactions with other animals from an early age in order to end up as the best version of himself — a sociable and friendly dog towards others. Health Boston Bulldogs are generally healthy with a life expectancy of 12 to 15 years. Unlike his Bulldog relatives, the Boston Bulldog does not suffer from breathing issues and enjoy better health than both his parent breeds. Due to a sensitive skin and the presence of skin folds which may recreate a favourable habitat for bacterial proliferation , they may develop skin problems, including infections. This crossbreed is also sensitive to extreme weather conditions, being susceptible to suffer from heatstroke in hot climates. They are also prone to flatulence, which, while not a major health concern, may come as a nuisance. The major health concerns linked to this crossbreed are: Eye Issues Cataracts, which cloud the lens of the eye, causing impaired vision, and glaucoma, an eye condition caused by abnormally high pressure in the eye and optic nerve damage, are among the most common. Heart Problems Congestive heart failure due to mitral valve insufficiency translates into the inability of the heart to pump blood adequately and is a health issue that may be inherited from the Boston Terrier parent. Exercise and Activity Levels Boston Bulldogs are quite adaptable and do not need a lot of exercise, nor do they have high activity levels. Of course, being playful dogs, Boston Bulldogs will be the happiest in homes where their owners actively interact and play with them, regardless of the type of game or activity. As long as their owners engage with them, they will be content. Just remember that as puppies, Boston Bulldogs require a lot more attention and exercise to burn off all their energy. As they grow old, however, they will gladly curl up on the couch and ditch the exercise, being mostly inactive indoors. They do well in different settings — apartment or house, urban or rural — given they are protected from extreme weather conditions. Grooming Boston Bulldogs tend to shed quite a bit, so weekly brushing is recommended. Regardless, they are very low-maintenance and their coat is easy to groom. Because they have skin folds on their faces and body that are prone to develop irritation if not aired and kept dry, it is important to ensure these folds are clean, free from dirt or dead skin cells, and dry at all times. The same applies to their ears, which are also folded and may accumulate debris, creating a hot and humid environment that may lead to ear infections. Keeping their ears clean and dry, checking them regularly, is therefore a must. Frequent baths are not recommended. Boston Bulldogs should only take a bath when really necessary and using a hypoallergenic shampoo, as they have a sensitive skin. When in need of cleaning, using a soft damp cloth or towel is a good option, which can also be used for cleaning the folds and ears, making sure they are left dry afterwards. Boston Bulldogs will generally be happy to be groomed, especially when they have a consistent routine. Teeth brushing and nail clipping should also be part of their cleaning habits. User reviews There are no user reviews for this listing. Popular Dog Breeds. This designer breed loves their family, is devoted to them, and strives to be a committed, involved member of the family. Although the English Boston-Bulldog is not recognized by the American Kennel Club, they are recognized by other notable dog organizations. English Boston-Bulldogs tend to make great family dogs. They bond closely with their families, are affectionate, and love nothing more than being with them. They also tend to have a playful, comedic personality paired with a calm, gentle nature. These dogs tend to get along fantastically with children. As long as they are properly socialized, they also get along well with other dogs, other pets, and even strangers. They can be prone to barking if boundaries for this behavior are not established early on or if they are inadvertently trained into it. The English Boston-Bulldog is a moderately adaptable dog breed. They adapt well to just about any home including apartments. But, as a brachycephalic dog breed, they are highly sensitive to heat and cold. They also do not like to be left alone for long periods of time because they bond so closely with their families. Are mixed-breed dogs healthier than purebred dogs? Just as a mixed-breed dog could inherit nothing from their parent breeds, they could also inherit any combination of the potential health conditions common to their parents or even all of them. In the case of the English Boston-Bulldog, potential health concerns to be aware of include cherry eye, skin infections, glaucoma, cataracts, and heart problems. Because they are a snub-nosed dog breed, they are at a higher risk for heat stroke in higher temperatures. So, you need to be careful in the heat and also use safe ways to exercise flat-faced dogs to keep them from overheating. Reputable breeders will be screening their dogs to avoid passing congenital issues to puppies. So, make sure you are asking them about the health and genetic history of both of the parents. You can also ask to see results or clearances from any tests that have been done. This dog breed tends to be highly trainable and a good fit for owners of all experience levels. They are intelligent and pick up on things quickly. Plus, they are eager to please. They can be stubborn at times, especially if they are bored with repetition. Although this can be a challenge for first-time dog owners, they can usually navigate it well as long as training is consistent and focused on positive praise and reward. These dogs are sensitive and will strive to perform to your expectations as long as those expectations are clearly and consistently communicated. On top of that, they offer opportunities to socialize a puppy. An English Boston-Bulldog has a short coat that sheds a little year-round. Because debris can get in their large eyes and trapped in their wrinkles, you need to regularly check these areas and clean as needed to help prevent irritation and other issues. Weekly ear checks can go a long way in helping to prevent ear infections. Ears should be dry, clean, and free of debris, redness, or other concerning things. A good dental care routine is also essential. English Boston-Bulldogs will be full of energy as puppies and will mellow out a little as they age. They will be in a more moderate activity range when they are young with bursts of energy while playing. As they age, they tend to settle into a lower activity range. Daily walks plus plenty of playtime are usually enough for these dogs. English Boston-Bulldogs usually stand inches tall and weighs pounds. English Boston-Bulldog generally lives for years. Featured English Boston-Bulldog Article.

Read more about the pups that are currently up for adoption. Read More… Foster Dogs FBRN is being faced with an increasing number of dogs who are ill, handicapped, or need expensive veterinary care before being placed. Meet our Foster Frenchies and please consider sponsoring one of them to ensure that they receive the care that they need. Read More… Surrender a Dog Life has thrown you a curve ball and you must surrender your French Bulldog… we are here to help! Read More… Volunteer We welcome you to join us in our efforts to rehabilitate and rehome needy French Bulldogs. We have many options for you to choose from, depending on your circumstances, time and resources. Our organization is composed solely of volunteers who nurture and foster these dogs as well as provide education and training. Our goal is to place healthy and happy French Bulldogs into forever homes. Read More… Contact Us Learn about the many ways that you can get in touch with us. He has a Staffie sister, Lettie, who he adores and who has taught him so much with her gentle patience. He has doggie friends at daycamp he sees once a week. He is the best snuggler ever! He used to be a resource guarder, but will now bring you his toys for a treat! He loves our daily walks and meeting people. Thank you FBRN for picking us to be his family- we love him so much! Despite being mostly blind and deaf, Ham is thriving in his golden years, especially with his folks now working from home. Thank you FBRN for our goodest good boy! We are so grateful for every day with him. She had cherry eye surgery in March right before Covid quarantine and the surgery was a success. A gigantic thank you to FBRN for allowing me to adopt this perfect little nugget. All Rights Reserved. A c 3 Non-Profit Organization. Tax ID: .Powered by Geeks4Rent. They had been left alone by their owner to suffer through the night — and for one of them it was already too late. The surviving bulldog, dubbed Phoenix, was hairless, sick and clearly terrified by her sudden change of environment. She was started on antibiotics, steroids, medicated baths and foot soaks, and antihistamines, to treat her inflamed skin — and immediately she began to heal. Second Chance Dog Rescue When Phoenix improved to the point that she could be spayed, the surgeon found another horrible surprise. It was a miracle that the little dog had not died from complications or infection — proving that above all else Phoenix was a survivor. Her patient foster mom slowly began to train her on how to be a household pet — exposing her little by little to the outside world, and teaching her basic commands. Second Chance Dog Rescue Three months after Phoenix was abandoned, the little dog has finally learned what having a home really means. And her life as a spoiled pet is far from anything she could have imagined. By signing up, I agree to the Terms and Privacy Policy. Cookie Settings. Published on July 19, PM EDT Photo: roadogs Stanley the fluffy French bulldog has earned the nickname Stanley Smiles because of his big, natural grin, but just a few months ago, this adorable dog was found in "deplorable conditions. Yes, French bulldogs and English bulldogs are cute, but I think a lot of people have no idea how many health issues they can have and how expensive they can be to maintain. We spend a lot on vet bills," Carvey added about Roadogs. In May, authorities confiscated dogs, including Stanley, from a small residence in Modesto, California, after police officers responded to "a domestic violence call and found the dogs being kept in deplorable conditions," Carvey told PEOPLE about Stanley's origins. The authorities found the dogs packed in stacked crates with little room to move. Three Orphaned Bear Cubs Move to California Wildlife Center for a Second Chance "One officer recalled gagging and vomiting at the smell of ammonia and feces outside, and inside there was dry urine and feces all over the floors. The owner was taken to court a month later, and the DA was successful in getting all the dogs signed over to the Stanislaus Animal Services Agency. They then chose to work with several reputable rescues to ensure these dogs get the best homes. Roadogs was one of those rescues. Even though Stanley "stank of urine" and "was pretty disgusting" when he was rescued, the dog's personality shone through the muck. He was used to being confined in a cage, so even though he'll be in the bedroom with space and comfy beds, I'll find him squeezed in a tight spot behind the treadmill — or under a chest of drawers. I'm just letting him come around in his own time," she said of Stanley's recovery. Korean Animal Groups Save 21 Canines Left Behind at Dog Meat Farm from 'Unbearable Situation' While Stanley is rebounding well after his rescue, Roadogs hopes the story of how this cute-looking dog was found crammed in a filthy cage amongst dozens of other canines encourages animal lovers to research where they get their pets. These Greeders focus on creating the next rare 'It' dog just so they can charge more money — despite the fact that many of these dogs will have long-term health issues," Carvey said of illegal breeding operations that sell dogs online. That's how you end up with a situation like Stanley's, where dogs spend their lives in cages, living in filth," Carvey said. Stanley came from a Modesto duplex. And there are many more people out there with dog cages stacked in their homes or garages. Be vigilant. If you see something, report it. If you smell something, report it! Carvey also said that the easiest way to ensure you are not supporting animal cruelty when you get a pet is by adopting your furry friend from a reputable rescue or shelter. And if you adopt, you are definitely not supporting a puppy mill," she explained. For those set on purchasing a dog, Carvey advised that the animal lovers do their research, visit the home of the breeder they plan on buying from, and never agree to purchase a dog online without meeting the breeder and animal first. After some time at Roadogs recuperating from the neglect he experienced at his last home, Stanley is ready to find his forever family. The fluffy French bulldog is looking for a patient family willing to work with him on housetraining and prepared to keep Stanley on his raw food diet, according to Roadogs' Instagram. To learn more about Roadogs rescue and their life-saving work, visit the nonprofit's website. Related Articles. Introduction A very special dog is now becoming part of your life. So many of the people who have undertaken this journey before you have reported that it was the most rewarding thing they have ever done — and the odds are that it will be for you, too. Puppy mill rescue dogs Over the next year or two, you will watch a dog who has been deprived of virtually every known pleasure begin to first explore, then enjoy, a life that offers her these pleasures. But it may not be an easy road for you and for your new canine companion. Puppy mill dogs have had their world turned upside down. This guide provides you with some specific methods for helping your puppy mill survivor. It is meant to supplement our larger report entitled Understanding and Caring for Rescued Puppy Mill Dogs , which is a comprehensive summary of the findings of our study of over 1, breeding dogs who were rescued from lives in puppy mills and adopted into human households. In obtaining full psychological and behavioral profiles of them, we were able to gain a wealth of information about these incredible dogs. Some basic facts: Puppy mills. They are large-scale commercial dog-breeding operations where the happiness of the dogs is all but ignored in order to make a monetary profit from selling the puppies. To maximize profits, the dogs are housed in very small enclosures, live in unsanitary living quarters, are fed inferior-quality food, are denied decent medical care, and, most important, are severely deprived of positive human social contact. Psychological functioning. Because puppy mill dogs are born and raised in an impoverished environment and endure severe stress throughout life, their psychological functioning is not like that of normally raised pet dogs. This shows itself in how they interact with people, their desire to make eye contact, their social skills with other dogs, their desire to play, their ability to focus attention and learn — in short, their ability to function like a typical dog. Fortunately, the dogs have a remarkable capacity to recover from their psychological impairments. Many recover to the point where they appear to be completely rid of their psychological difficulties, others recover partially but not completely, and others are so severely troubled that they continue to struggle emotionally. Every puppy mill dog has a different capacity to adapt and recover, and we almost never know at the outset what this limit will be or when the dog will reach it. What this means is that adopters must accept up-front that the dog they are taking into their home may retain some psychological impairment throughout his or her life and may always be a special-needs companion. Rehabilitation of puppy mill dogs is often difficult and fraught with frustration. It may take weeks, months, or even years for the dogs to be free of their fears and other emotional struggles. But, as our studies have shown, the adopters who open their arms and hearts to these little survivors are all but assured an immensely rewarding experience. Course of recovery. For some it is fast, but for most it is slow. It can be fast, and then slow, and then fast again. Steps forward are often interspersed with steps backward. All puppy mill dogs are affected by their puppy mill experience in their own way, and their needs for healing are very unique when they escape that life. Methods of rehabilitation will also vary in their effectiveness from dog to dog. Methods that are beneficial for one dog may be ineffective and even counterproductive in another. Rehabilitation can involve some trial and error until you see what works best for your dog. Normal dog behavior. We know that there are many aspects of normal dog behavior that dogs who have spent their entire lives in puppy mills cannot be expected to show at first, among them: Showing any control or discrimination over when and where they urinate and defecate Trusting humans Desiring petting or being picked up, held or hugged Playing with humans, other dogs or toys Understanding any cues Walking on a leash Eight words to live by. Write them on a piece of paper and post it on your refrigerator so you will see it every day. For example, while almost no dog straight out of the puppy mill has any concept of or experience with a collar and leash, if a dog has been given enough time to learn about these things in a foster home, it may mean that, upon coming home with you, the dog is very familiar with wearing a collar and being on a leash. Back to top 2. How to prepare for bringing home your rescued puppy mill dog There are some things you will need to do before your new adopted puppy mill dog arrives in your home. Do: Dog-proof your house. In particular, remove or place out of reach small objects that might be ingested and anything you do not want chewed. Buy a dog crate that is the right size for the new dog tall enough for the dog to stand, long enough to accommodate the dog lying down from nose to base of the tail. Wire crates provide more ventilation, but the dogs feel more exposed correctable by draping blankets over the top and sides. The plastic crates are more den-like, thus providing a greater sense of security. The tops also can come off, allowing a fearful dog to be removed without pulling her through a crate door. Finally, be sure that the bottom of the crate is very comfortable to walk on, as many of these dogs have walked on nothing but wire cage flooring and their feet may be injured and painful. A soft blanket or pad works well for this. Have these additional items already at home before the arrival of the dog: Nylon leash, 6 feet in length Sturdy nylon collar of the correct size You should be able to fit two fingers comfortably under the collar when it is on the dog. Harness Again, you may have to wait until the dog arrives for proper sizing. Back to top 3. How to introduce your dog to your home You will almost certainly adjust to your new dog well before he adjusts to you, your family, and your household. Because of this, one of the strongest inclinations for newly adopted puppy mill dogs is to hide — behind, under, farther away — in any way that lessens the fear. The hiding can be for days or weeks, with the dog coming out only at night to get some food and water. When a puppy mill dog enters your home, your most important job is to protect him from things that frighten him. Do: Be patient. For these dogs, use of a crate will likely have to be omitted from any steps during the adjustment phase to the new home. Ideally, give her a quiet room to herself, where she can adjust without threats and disruptions for the first few days. Place a bowl of water and a little dry and canned food in the room not far from the crate. Put newspapers or piddle pads available at pet stores on the other side of the room. Then leave her alone and just peek in on her occasionally for the next few hours. Fully expect to find that your dog has urinated or had a bowel movement in the room. After a few days in his own room, bring the dog in his crate to an area of the house that has some human activity, but not a lot. The crate should either sit backed up into a corner or be shielded with towels or blankets draped over its top, sides and back end to give the dog a sense of safety behind him. The door to the crate should be left partially open. Here, the dog can feel some security in his crate but begin to be exposed to the all-new experiences of a human household. Next, set up the exercise pen in a room so that your dog can safely venture out of her crate but still feel somewhat protected. The pen also prevents the dog from going into parts of the house that you or she are not quite ready for. Always try to move slowly when around your puppy mill dog. Sudden and fast movements can be very frightening. Minimize loud and sudden noises, since they also can be very frightening. In fact, having another friendly and compatible dog in the house is what adopters tell us is the single most effective thing you can do to rehabilitate the adopted puppy mill dog. At night, having your dog sleep next to your bed can help him adjust to you in a non-threatening way. This may not be suitable for all adopters or the dogs themselves, so each adopter must decide which nighttime sleeping arrangement is best. You want him to learn that, in his safe place, nothing bad happens, which then allows him to feel more relaxed at all times because he knows he can always go to his safe place. Introducing puppy mill dogs to other friendly dogs in the house usually goes smoothly, but here are some tips to encourage a successful meeting. If possible, carry out the first contact between your newly adopted puppy mill dog and your current dog s in a neutral location — that is, someplace that none of the dogs have been before. With you supervising, allow them to watch and smell each other for a few hours. Let the dogs stay there for another hour or two. Next comes face-to-face introductions. If you have several dogs, do the following introduction with just one dog at a time. Put a collar and leash on your dog and also on the puppy mill dog if she accepts it. Have someone else bring the other dog into the room where you and your puppy mill dog are waiting. Be ready to use the leashes to separate them promptly if either shows any signs of aggression growling, snarling, baring of teeth, attempting to bite. When they start to show interest in other things in the environment rather than fully focusing on each other, it will tell you that they are generally accepting of each other. If you have to leave the house, confine the dogs separately so that your puppy mill dog and your other dog s cannot physically interact. You can keep them in separate rooms, or use a dependably strong baby gate to separate them, so that they can still see, smell and hear one another. Feed the puppy mill dog in an area at least 10 feet away from where the other dogs are fed, preferably where they cannot see each other while eating. If your puppy mill dog appreciates toys, she should have her own. Sharing things like toys, beds, food, and treats will come later, once your dogs become friends. Praise all the dogs for friendly behavior toward one another. Maintain a soft and soothing that is, not excited tone of voice so as not to startle or worry a noise-sensitive puppy mill dog. If you notice this happening, keep interactive sessions short until the dogs appear more calm during play. Back to top 5. Puppy mill dogs suffer on both counts. And because of this, puppy mill dogs arrive in the human home with very little willingness or ability to trust you or any other human. More importantly, the trust you want to help your dog develop is a trust in the world, of which you are one very valuable part. For puppy mill dogs, fear diminishes and trust grows in small increments over time. Our studies show that the vast majority of puppy mill dogs come to trust humans, but we have also learned that, for some of the dogs, this trust is extended to only one or two people. As long as the dog has at least one person he can trust, the opportunity exists for him to fully enjoy his life. Establish a consistent schedule that the dog will learn she can depend on. This is a critical part of building trust. Make a schedule for feeding times, going outside, play, rest and sleep — and stick to it. You want to teach your puppy mill dog that he can trust the world, that he can depend on the world to function in a reliable and nonthreatening way. Teach your dog that you are the source of good things in life, starting with food. Most puppy mill dogs will not eat from your hand at first, but with patience you can almost always teach this degree of trust. You can also build trust using treats. Sit on the floor with delicious treats placed at varying distances on the floor around you. It could take minutes or it could take months, but over time almost all puppy mill dogs will eventually start coming closer and closer to you to get the treats. Then, gradually shorten the distances between the treats and your body and between the treats and your hand, until you can place a treat in your upturned palm and have the dog take it out of your hand. When this happens, it is a huge sign of acceptance and trust. You will also want to simply teach your dog that you mean her no harm whatsoever — that you are not something to fear. So, sit on the floor, preferably and talk very softly to your dog. Many people read aloud in a soothing tone, which benefits both your dog and you, since you can get some reading done. If your dog is very frightened, you can read to her as she lies in her crate. Back to top 6. How to touch and handle your dog It is human nature to want to comfort frightened creatures by holding and embracing them. Giving hugs, cuddling, and showering them with love seems to be just what rescued puppy mill dogs need. Most puppy mill dogs are uncomfortable with physical contact by humans, and some are outright terrified. And, in light of their life experience, they have every reason to be. They have received very little or no positive human touch their whole lives. Change takes time, so be patient. Occasionally and gradually edge your arm, hand, leg, or body closer to your dog to show that nearness is no cause for alarm. Given enough time, almost all puppy mill dogs will eventually get close enough to sniff you — a huge step for them. Sometime after that, the dog will usually touch you with her nose or a paw. Let your dog have several weeks of developing confidence in her touching you before you try to touch her. If your puppy mill dog accepts your touch, you may try to pick her up, but do it in gradual steps. First, make sure she allows you to touch her sides, then allows you to place a hand under her body. Just back up to the point at which she did accept it and move through the steps more slowly. If at any point she seems distressed, stop and give her a few days before trying again. Dogs who do this also may roll onto their backs and even pass some urine. All of this is a show of submission. Celebrate your dog making her first physical contact with you. Remain absolutely calm and silent. Any sound or movement could erase the big step the dog has just made. Make direct eye contact at first. Point your head a bit off to the side and keep visual contact out of the corner of your eye. Ever startle a puppy mill dog by touching her from behind. Back to top 7. Early exposure to and interaction with humans during puppyhood is essential for the developing canine brain to form the connections that make for positive social relationships with humans throughout life. So, if a puppy is exposed to stairs in a positive way, for example, his comfort level with stairs will be natural throughout life. By contrast, if a puppy grows to adulthood without ever encountering stairs, he may have a persistent fear of stairs. As you can imagine, puppy mill dogs are routinely deprived of exposure to so many things that dogs living in homes experience every day. So, our overall goal in socializing puppy mill dogs is to lessen their fears of the basic, normal things that pet dogs encounter. We are striving to have them feel comfortable with being around humans and other dogs, being outdoors in wide open spaces, walking on solid ground, going through a doorway, playing with toys, riding in a car, hearing a vacuum cleaner, going up and down stairs, getting bathed, and so much more. Our greatest efforts, of course, are directed at helping puppy mill dogs to become comfortable around and bonded with people so they can enjoy living in human society. Because of the uniqueness of each and every rescued puppy mill dog, socialization plans must be tailored to the individual. Every aspect of the plan — what they are socialized to, where they are socialized, what specific steps and pace are required, what supplemental help e. Other dogs serve as a valuable role model for everything from how to play to where to go to the bathroom. Based on extensive reports from adopters, socialization efforts are very beneficial for many puppy mill dogs, but for others it can actually create distress. First, it is crucial for the puppy mill dog adopter to accept that every dog will maximally socialize to a different level. For example, some puppy mill dogs may be initially unwilling to walk on stairs, but over time will become completely comfortable running up and down stairs. Others may become better on stairs but never comfortable, and still others may become comfortable going up stairs but not down, or vice versa. The same is true with regard to socialization to humans. Some dogs may never achieve a comfort level with certain people in their lives. Only time will tell. All but a few of rescued puppy mill dogs will bond to their primary person, however. Have another dog around to help socialize your puppy mill dog. If you do not have one already, consider adopting another dog in need of a home. Misery may love company, but misery also compounds misery when two fearful dogs live together. Use desensitization and counter-conditioning to help socialize your dog. These techniques make the fearful stimulus e. The goal is to get your dog to associate good things with going to the vet. The same technique can be used to get a dog to enjoy the presence of people, other dogs, or a new baby in the house. When using desensitization and counter-conditioning, everything is done in small, gradual increments. Progress may occur rapidly or very slowly, and different dogs have different limits. Have all interactions between your dog and people she is shy around or fearful of e. They should stand sideways to the dog, crouch down if possible, not make direct eye contact, make no sudden movements, and talk to your dog in a calm, quiet tone of voice. If it is safe to do so i. If this goes well and your dog remains comfortable, give some treats to the person to place in the palm of the hand that she extends to your dog. Avoid the avoidable, when possible. Try pheromone therapy, which can ease anxiety and fear in many dogs. Dog-appeasing pheromone DAP comes in a spray bottle, a plug-in wall diffuser, and a collar. It is available through many online websites and at pet supply stores. Consult your veterinarian to see if this option is appropriate for your dog. Provide whatever comforting words and gestures seem to help your dog cope with his emotional challenges. How this absurd notion ever got started is a mystery, but it is scientific nonsense. Use common sense here. If you had a snake phobia and were placed in a box where snakes were poured on top of you, would you come out of the box less or more fearful of snakes? Ignoring the barking is the best response, because it prevents the dog from being rewarded for trying to get people to go away, and hence reinforcing the behavior. Back to top 8. But we must realize that bodily eliminations inside the house are not accidents at all to the puppy mill dog; in fact, to these dogs, this is perfectly normal behavior. To make matters worse, most of these dogs are very fearful, so training them to do anything — even with strictly positive techniques — can make them even more fearful. For puppy mill dogs, the basic rule is this: Reward the good, distract from the bad. Punishment is never a good idea when house-training a dog, but it can be even more harmful for the fragile and sensitive emotional make-up of rescued puppy mill dogs, impeding and even reversing any progress they are gaining in trusting people. House-training may take a week, it may take a month, it may take a year. Try not to get discouraged. As our studies clearly show, some dogs will achieve full mastery of eliminating in the right place. Be very careful when using even the gentlest-sounding house-training methods with puppy mill dogs. Because of the fear these dogs can have, even the most benign things, such as rewarding the dog for urinating in the right place, can scare them. Keep in mind that many puppy mill dogs are very frightened of being outdoors, which is, of course, a major hindrance to training a dog to do her business outside. For these dogs, use piddle pads or newspaper to train the dog to eliminate indoors initially. As an aside, not everyone wants or needs to train their dogs to do their business outside. For them, having the dog eliminate indoors on piddle pads or paper is just fine. It may happen, but do not allow it to be your expectation. Back to top 9. How to deal with marking Marking is when a dog most often a male, but occasionally a female urinates on specific objects or locations because of the influence of sex hormones or some source of stress. Male dogs in puppy mills, all of whom are not neutered obviously , mark in their cages and enclosures as a territorial signal to the other nearby males. The longer they do this before they leave the puppy mill, the more habitual it becomes and the lower the likelihood that it will fully stop even when they are neutered. In addition to the influence of sex hormones, marking can also be triggered by stress, anxiety and fear. And because we know that these emotional states are prominent in rescued puppy mill dogs, it is not surprising to find that marking is common in their new adoptive homes. Competition over human attention, sleeping places, access to certain locations e. Try dog-appeasing pheromone DAP , which comes in a spray bottle, plug-in wall diffuser and a collar, and is available for purchase via many websites. Use belly bands available at pet stores and online if needed. Clean all urine markings very thoroughly with white vinegar and an enzymatic product, which neutralizes urine odors available at pet stores and online. How to leash-train your dog It is extremely rare for dogs in puppy mills to have ever been on a leash. While we take for granted that for a dog or a human , using your neck to pull against something is no big deal, if you have never done that in your life, it would be a very unusual and possibly even scary sensation. This is likely why, in our study of puppy mill dogs, they pull against a leash much less often than typical pet dogs. Similarly, any pulling of the puppy mill dog with a leash is likely very frightening to him because he has never had something pull against this part of his body. Why leash-train? It allows you to gently get your dog out of a tight hiding place, such as out from under furniture, if need be. And it allows you to gently lead the dog to the chosen potty area if the dog is frightened of being picked up and carried. Purchase a sturdy nylon collar and a harness of proper size and fit. This will provide a mild pulling sensation on the collar that should not be upsetting. Be sure to always supervise the dog very closely to prevent the leash from catching on something and endangering your dog. Use the same leash-dragging strategy with the leash attached to the harness. You can alternate this with the sessions of collar attachment. Use only the harness if the collar is upsetting to your dog. Use delicious food treats as enticements and rewards when you first attach the collar, harness or leash, if your dog seems resistant but not distressed. Feed the treats while another person is placing the collar or harness on, or attaching the leash. Doing this in short trials over several hours or days should lead the dog to associate the apparatus with the treats and then be accepting of having them put on and wearing them. When it appears that leash-dragging is well tolerated, pick up the leash and follow your dog as she walks around, occasionally giving a very slight pull on the leash. Slowly increase the amount of resistance so she can feel what a little tension against the collar or harness feels like. Using this method, most dogs become quite comfortable with walking on leash. When she seems relatively confident with the outdoors, you can take her outside on the leash. Almost all of these things are eventually achievable, but you must go very slowly and be guided by what your dog shows he is ready for. Back to top .How to crate-train your dog The first thing to know about crate-training a puppy mill dog is this: Not all puppy mill dogs can be — or should be — crate-trained. Seeing, and especially being in, a cage-like enclosure may arouse memories of the puppy mill. Why crate-train? For this function, the crate door is left open. There are times when you need your dog to be in her crate, such as during the night or when workers are in the house and your door may be inadvertently left open. For this function, the crate door is kept closed. Make being in the crate a positive experience for the dog. Try feeding the dog in her crate and offer treats in the crate. In fact, anytime you lead your dog into the crate for the purpose of confinement, include a favorite treat e. Make sure your dog has first had the opportunity to go to the bathroom anytime she is put in the crate with the door closed. Start with short periods of time in the closed-door crate and slowly work up to longer periods of time. This means first observing how long your dog is comfortable in the crate before showing any indications of anxiety, such as pacing, pawing at the crate door, digging into the corners of the crate, crying, whimpering or barking. If possible, do several of these sessions each day. Then, over the next few weeks, very gradually increase the time she is spending in the crate during each session. In most cases, you will be able to extend the length of time that she can comfortably spend in the crate by several hours. He will very quickly form a mental association between crate and fear, and that may simply escalate the fear level. Use the crate in any way as punishment. Allow anything to make the crate an unpleasant experience. How to teach your dog to respond to basic cues Teaching your dog to respond to basic cues e. Basic training also establishes a leader and follower relationship, which is the most basic foundation for correcting any problem behaviors that may arise later. For the dogs who are negatively affected by training, there are two main factors at work: fear and an impaired ability to focus and concentrate. Actual training methods can be found in many books and online videos, including the Best Friends online pet care library. What you need to know here is how standard methods of basic training must be modified for the special needs of puppy mill dogs. Take your dog to training classes if you prefer having the structure of a class, but only if the other dogs, people and commotion do not cause your dog distress. Make certain that the professional trainer if you use one is knowledgeable about rescued puppy mill dogs and has had experience with them. Learning requires the mind to concentrate and maintain focus, and our studies show that, when compared to typical pet dogs, puppy mill dogs are less able to do this. None of this means that puppy mill dogs cannot learn, but they will have different capacities for how fast and how much they can learn. Try desensitization and counter-conditioning techniques if your dog seems very fearful or distressed by attempts at training. How to deal with poop-eating Dogs coming out of puppy mills do some strange things, but eating poop known as coprophagia is certainly one of the most unappealing to us humans. Puppy mill dogs eat poop for many reasons — ranging from hunger to relief of boredom. There are food additives that can make poop distasteful to a dog. The additives must be added to the food of any dog whose poop your dog is eating. Other things that your dog may prefer over poop include crumbled dog treats or small bits of bread. Punish your dog for eating poop. If you are considering applying for one of our puppy mill survivors, please read the following essay and think very carefully about whether you can provide the consistency, patience, experience and care that a puppy mill dog requires to thrive. If you are a first time dog owner, a puppy mill dog is probably not for you. However, once you have been an experienced dog owner, you may find that sharing your life with a puppy mill dog creates a unique bond. Please note that an adopted puppy mill rescued dog may be at different stages of rehab so we have tried to start this from the beginning. Permission is granted to use this article, unedited, on your website or in print, as long as credit is linked to this page. Every mill survivor is different. What works on one, or many, will completely fail on others; the only thing that is consistent is that they will need lots of patience, understanding, love, and probably most importantly, unconditional acceptance of what they are and what their limitations may be. At first glance a mill survivor may look like many of your friends' dogs; maybe not a perfect example of the breed, but close. What you won't see is the condition they were in when they came into rescue. Many have fur so matted that it all had to be shaved off, and even the short haired breeds suffer from thin dull coats. Many times removing the filth and matting have revealed open sores, usually from flea allergies or sarcoptic mange. Their ears are often full of filth and usually mites, and some survivors suffer from permanent hearing loss because of untreated ear infections. Most survivors require the removal of rotten teeth, even young dogs. Their gums are usually very infected and the teeth have excessive buildup on them. Many vets who are not familiar with puppy mill rescued dogs will miscalculate the age of the dog if using only the teeth as their guide. Many survivors also suffer from swollen, splayed and sore feet from so much time walking on wire. While finally getting some good nutrition and extensive medical care after arriving in rescue, all too often there remains the psychological damage that can't be fixed with a bath, medicine, or surgery. We would love to say that every puppy mill survivor only needs love to turn it into a wonderful family pet, but that would be a lie. Love is definitely needed in large amounts, but so is patience. The damage done during the years in the mill usually can be overcome, but it takes time and dedication. It takes a very special adopter for one of these dogs. Not being "up to it" is no crime, but you need to be honest with yourself, and us, about your expectations. These dogs have already been through more than their share of heartache and if your entire family is not willing to make the commitment, the dog is better off staying in our care until the perfect home for them is found. Handling: Many mill survivors have spent their entire lives in the mill with only an elevated wire cage to call home. Puppies growing up in a mill miss out on many crucial socialization periods with humans and they never learn to trust, to love, or to play. They have had minimum physical contact with people and have virtually no concept of what to expect or what is expected of them when they are placed in a family situation. Their life in the mill may have been what we would consider unpleasant, but it is the only life they have ever known. In the mill, they were probably fed and watered using automatic dispensers, and their feces and urine was only cleaned after it fell through the wire that they lived on. Actual human contact normally came when they were being vaccinated, dewormed, or moved to a new cage to breed or to whelp puppies. Many of the quirks that mill dogs might have will be discovered while the dog is still in our rescue, but there are things that may develop after the dog feels a little more comfortable in your home. Most of the dogs we encounter have had their spirit broken many years before and aggression is not normally something we encounter; however, there are memory triggers that the dog may experience after it is settled in your home, so we will talk briefly about these. The physical contact that they have received probably has not been pleasant. For one thing, because they are not handled enough, they are scared. Many mills handle their "stock" by the scruff of the neck. They have work to do, and don't really want to stand around holding some stinky little dog any longer than necessary. It is not uncommon for these survivors to be sensitive at the backs of their necks, after all, touch there brings the unexpected. Many mill dogs will try to always face you, not trusting you enough to give you easy access to them from behind. NEVER startle a mill survivor from behind: you will lose any trust that you may have gained. Always make sure that they are anticipating being picked up and consistently tell them what you are going to do with the same word, like "up". It is not uncommon for a mill dog to drop their bellies to the floor when they know you are going to pick them up, some will even roll on their backs, often urinating in the process. This is a submissive move on the dog's part, and while it may be frustrating trying to pick up a dog in this position, these dogs will seldom show aggression in their lives. It is okay to pick up a dog while they are in this position, but if time is not of the essence, encourage the dog to come to you by sitting a few feet away and calling him. The most common posture we see in mill dogs is the "freeze;" the dog will initially try to escape you, but when they realize there is no escape, they simply freeze up--rigid, like a statue--and accept their "fate. Always be gentle and try to avoid picking them up until you see that they are receptive to it. Imagine how you would feel if taken hostage at gunpoint. The gunman may never harm you in any way, but you are aware of the danger the entire time, and you don't have the ability to leave when you want. No matter how nice the gunman is to you, you will never enjoy the experience and will always watch for an escape route; however, you can turn the tables around and see a ray of hope. Imagine the gunman has been captured and you decide to visit him in jail. Now you are in control. You call all the shots, and you have the ability to leave at any time. The bottom line is that these dogs have to progress at their own pace. Anything you force them to do will not be pleasant to them; let them visit with you on their terms, whenever possible. .Learning about the House: Many times when you bring a mill survivor into your home, it is their instinct to hide in a quiet corner. Any new dog that you bring into your home should be kept separated from other family pets for 7 days. During this time it is fine to crate or confine them to a quiet area. After that, though, they should have exposure to the household. If crating, the crate should be in a central location. The ideal spot is one where there is frequent walking and activity. This allows the dog to feel safe in the crate, yet observe everyday activity and become accustomed to it; they need to hear the table being set, the dishwasher running, phones ringing, and people talking. Very few mill dogs know what a leash is. After the quarantine, when the dog is out of the crate and supervised, it is not a bad idea to let them drag a leash around with them. Let them get used to the feel. It is easy to fall into the mindset that they must be pampered and carried everywhere, but leash training is important. It will make your life easier to have a leash trained dog, but it will also offer your dog confidence in the future. Gaining Trust: A mill dog has no reason to trust you. Your trust needs to be earned, little by little. Patience is a very important part of rehabbing a mill survivor. We have seen a lot of mill dogs that don't want to eat whenever people are around. It is important that your mill dog be fed on a schedule, with you nearby. You don't have to stand and watch over them, but you should be in the same room with them. They need to know that their yummy meal is coming from you. For the majority of mill dogs, accepting a treat right out of your hand is a huge show of trust. Offer treats on a regular basis especially as a reward. Don't concern yourself too much if your dog does not eat for a few days. Because most of our mill rescues have been fed with self-feeders and confined to small places, it is not uncommon for them to be a little overweight. If there is no vomiting or diarrhea and your dog is otherwise acting healthy, a few days of nibbling at their food while they learn to live by your schedule, is not going to hurt them. It is important to teach them that food is fed on a schedule and you should not be leaving food down at all times. While you shouldn't force yourself upon your dog, she does need to get used to you. Sit and talk quietly while gently petting or massaging your dog. It is best to do this an area where she, not necessarily you, is the most comfortable. Some dogs sadly, never will adjust, and we'lll talk more about them later. Never allow friends to force attention on a mill survivor. Ask them not to look your dog directly in the eyes. It is not uncommon for mill dogs to simply never accept outsiders. Let your dog set the pace. If the dog approaches, ask them to talk quietly and hold out a hand. No quick movements. Ask that any barking be ignored. Remember that these dogs bark to warn and scare off intruders. If you acknowledge the barking you may be reinforcing it with attention. If you take your guest outside, you have just reinforced to your dog that barking will make the intruder go away. Housebreaking: A child spends the first one to two years of their life soiling their diaper and having you remove the dirty diaper and replace it with a clean one. A puppy mill dog spends its entire life soiling its living area. Potty training a child and housebreaking a puppy mill dog are the exact same procedures.A regular schedule, constant reinforcement, praise, and commitment on your part are musts! Would you scream at your child, march him to the bathroom and make him sit on the toilet AFTER you discovered he soiled his diaper? A dog is no different in this sense; scolding them after the deed is done is of no benefit to anyone. The two most important things you can do are to get your new dog on a regular feeding schedule which will put them on a regular potty schedule and to observe them closely after feeding time. Getting them on a premium, low residue food is very important. This will produce a stool that normally is firm very easy to clean up and only one or two bowel movements a day are normal. Low cost or over the counter foods have a lot of fillers, and it is very hard to get a dog on a regular cycle using these foods. Before you even begin to housebreak them, you must learn their schedule. As soon as they are finished eating, command "outside". Always use the exact same word in the exact same tone. Watch them closely outside and observe their pattern as they prepare to defecate. Some will turn circles, some will scratch at the ground, some may find a corner, some may sniff every inch of the ground, some will get a strange look on their face.We could give you a million tips that our adopters have found to work best for them, but as we have said, every dog is different. As long as you always keep in mind that housebreaking and potty training are one in the same, you should eventually see results. Never do to a dog what you would not do to a child. It may take a week, it may take a month, it may take a year.In most cases, the success of housebreaking depends on your commitment. While we have focussed mainly on bowel movements, urinating in the house is just as hard to correct as defecating in the house if not worse. Below we will discuss "marking," which many people associate only with male dogs. We will go into that in more detail, but if urinating in the house remains a problem for your dog, we highly recommend crate training. This can be researched online in more detail, but if crate training is not working because your dog is soiling in the crate, you should discontinue the training immediately--as you are only reinforcing that it is okay to soil their area. In general, if you can understand your dog's bowel patterns, you will usually find that they urinate before or after a bowel movement. Reinforce the positive and work on the negative, as most dogs will understand "outside" and associate it with both urinating and defecating. Of course, in the meantime, you will want to protect your carpets by either removing any that can be rolled up, or confining the dog to a tiled floor when you aren't holding it on your lap. This should only be done during the training process, as socialization is just as important as house training and often tiled floors are in areas that we don't spend a lot of time. Marking: Puppy mill survivors all have one thing in common.A dog that marks its territory is 'warning' other dogs that this is its area.However, in a puppy mill situation, the dog's area is normally a 2X4 cage with other dogs in and around their 'territory'. It becomes a constant battle of establishing territory and it is not uncommon to see male and female survivors with marking problems. Normally, marking is seen in dogs with a dominant nature. This is good in the sense that these dogs can normally withstand verbal correction better than submissive dogs. The word 'NO' will become your favorite word as you try to deal with the problem of dogs that mark. Don't be afraid to raise your voice and let the dog know that you are not happy. Always use the exact same word and don't follow 'NO' with "now what has mommy told you about that, you are a bad dog. You have to teach them that it is not acceptable to do this in the house. The only way to do this is to constantly show your disappointment and stimulate their need to 'dominate' by allowing them more time outside, and even to areas where you know other dogs have been.While you and your survivor learn about each other, and your survivor develops a sense of respect towards you, you will have to protect your home from the damage caused by marking. Here are a few tips that you will find helpful. White vinegar is your best friend. Keep a spray bottle handy at all times. Use the vinegar anytime you see your dog mark. The vinegar will neutralize the smell that your dog just left behind. Using other cleaning products may actually cause your dog to mark over the same area again. Most cleaning products contain ammonia.Your dog will feel the need to mark over normal cleaning products, but normally has no interest in areas neutralized by vinegar. Potty Pads.These can be found in any pet store, but most 'housebreaking pads' are treated with ammonia to encourage a puppy to go on the pad instead of the carpet; since we are trying to discourage your dog from marking, these aren't always the best choice. You might check at a home medical supply store. The blue and white pads used to protect beds usually work best. Staple, tape or pin these pads white side facing outward to any area that your dog is prone to mark walls, furniture, etc. Do not replace the pads when your dog soils them.These are not a solution to the problem, but will help protect your home while you deal with the problem. Scotch Guard. Scotch Guard is really nothing more than a paraffin based protector. It puts a waxy substance down which repels water and spills and in our case, urine. Shake and spray this onto the fabric areas you want to protect, such as the base of the sofa and the carpet below doorways or areas your dog is apt to mark. It may make the area stiff feeling at first but it will normally 'blend' in with normal household temperatures and humidity. After the first use, you will need to microwave the bottle and emerge the spray mechanism in a bowl of hot water so that any wax residue will melt. I have never had any problems, but it is always best to check beforehand. Belly Bands. Belly bands can be easily made at home out of things you probably already have. Depending on the size of your dog you can use the elastic end of tube socks, the sleeve of a sweatshirt, etc. Simply fit the material to your dog and then place a female sanitary napkin under the penis. Another easy way is to measure your dog, cut the fabric and sew on Velcro to hold it in place. There are also many sites on the Internet to order these if making them yourself is just not up your alley. Just remember to take the belly band off every time you bring your dog out to potty. Again, this is not a solution, but a protective measure. Quirks: Poo-poo, shoo-shoo, ca-ca, doo-doo, 2, feces, poop, stool.But nothing is more gross than owning a dog who eats poop! Coprophagia is the technical term, but for the purpose of this article, we're just going to call it the 'affliction'. Dogs of all breeds, ages and sizes have the affliction but in puppy mill rescues, it is not uncommon at all to find dogs afflicted with this horrible habit. As in any bad habit, the cure lies in understanding the unacceptable behavior. There are three primary reasons that a puppy mill survivor is afflicted. We'll start with the most common, and easiest to remedy. It tastes good and they are hungry! Rescues that have come from a mill where dogs were not fed properly often resort to eating their own or other dog's feces as a source of food. These types of situations will usually remedy themselves when the dog realizes that he is always going to get fed. It is also easy to discourage this behavior by adding over-the-counter products to their food which are manufactured for this purpose. Ask your vet which products are available and you will normally see results in weeks. Learned behavior. This is usually the cause of puppy mill dogs that have the affliction. There are several reasons why a dog learned to behave like this, but the most common cause is being housed with dominant dogs who fight over food. These dominant dogs will often guard the food dish and prevent the more submissive dogs from eating even if the dominant dog is not hungry. Food aggression in caged dogs is usually fast and furious and often results in severe injury to the submissive dogs. Because the dominant dog is often eating much more than is needed, the stool is virtually undigested and contains many of the nutrients and 'flavors' of the original meal; therefore almost as tasty to the submissive dog as if he'd ate the real thing. Puppies that were raised with a dominant mother or dominant litter mates also pick up this habit very early--in this case, it is a little harder to treat, but it can usually be done. This eating pattern is usually maintained throughout the dog's life, so the age of your dog will play a big role in how hard it is to correct the behavior. It's become habit.Dogs with the affliction will actually go hunting for a fresh stool when you take them outside. The key is to give your dog something better to hunt for. You may find something that he likes better and is as readily available and affordable. The good thing about popcorn is what your dog doesn't eat, the birds will. We can almost guarantee that once your dog has learned to search out the popcorn, he'll pass those fresh turds right up, LOL! It may take weeks or months before your dog 'unlearns' to seek out stools but most dogs are receptive to this training. You may have to sprinkle the lawn with popcorn the rest of your dog's life.As mentioned above, Coprophagia means 'eating poop'. Coprophagia is a form of a much more serious problem called Pica. Pica is the unnatural compulsion to eat foreign objects. Dogs suffering from Pica will eat not only stools, but rocks, dirt, sticks, etc. A good rescuer will observe dogs prior to placement and will recognize the seriousness of this problem. A dog suffering from Pica should never be placed in an inexperienced home or any home that is not aware of the problem and the dangers. Dogs suffering from Pica will often end up having surgery.If you are the owner of a dog which you believe suffers from Pica, I suggest you consult your vet; these dogs often require medication for their disorder and only your vet can guide you on the best way to proceed. Before we close this section on Pica, we want to say that true Pica is rare. Most dogs will chew on sticks or rocks--or sofas and table legs. However a dog suffering from Pica will not just chew on these items.Just because your dog is eating his own stool.If in doubt, consult your vet. The "special" ones: Occasionally, we see the survivor who has survived the mill, but at such a great cost that they can never be "brought around". These are the dogs that have endured so much suffering that they remind us of children who are abused, and survive by separating their mind from the body. These damaged dogs will never fully trust anyone. So where does that leave these poor souls? Most are still capable of living out a wonderful life. They need a scheduled environment but most importantly, a home where they are accepted for who and what they are. They may never jump up on a couch and cuddle with you, or bring you a ball to play catch, but you will see the joy that they take in living each day knowing that they will have clean bedding, fresh food and water, and unconditional love. To them, those small comforts alone are pure bliss. These "broken ones" are the ones that normally never leave their foster homes. Ironically, these types of dogs normally do very well in a group-dog setting. They seem to have shunned the world, and most certainly mankind, and have created their own little world without humans. Whenever we suspect that a mill rescue may be "too far gone" for a fast paced family, we try to place them in experienced homes; quiet homes; or homes with other dogs. These are by far the hardest ones for our hearts to accept, but they are also a constant reminder of why we do what we do. We work not only to adopt dogs, but to educate their new owners about the truth behind that puppy in the pet store window. We hope that you will keep a journal or blog on the reform of your puppy mill dog, and we hope that you will join us in our campaign to educate the public--through the eyes of the survivors--by always taking the opportunity to further educate others. Together we have made a difference in the life of just one dog, but together we can also make a difference in the lives of hundreds of thousands of dogs still caged in puppy mills. It is only when the public realizes the connection between pet stores and puppy mills that we will end the demand, end the supply, and end the abuse! Copyright A New Start on Life,

Like any puppy, Pugs display playful bursts of energy before they suddenly collapse for a nap. They seem to have two speeds fast and stop! The good news is that Pug pups will not always be this hyperactive. They usually settle down after a couple of years and morph into more sedate lap dogs who love to take a lot of naps. Pugs are very happy, excitable dogs who want nothing more than to play and hang out with you. Their natural exuberance is what makes Pugs so fun to be around. Pugs slow down a bit as they grow older, but fortunately, they never lose their zeal for having fun! Most Pugs have enthusiastic personalities with sweet dispositions making them great companions. Whether they are hanging out on your lap or begging you to throw the ball for them, they demand a lot of attention! Combine this with youthful puppy energy and you have a pretty lively little dog! However, for the most part, Pugs are not high maintenance click here to read more. I actually think of Pugs as being more joyous and playful than hyper. But they are prone to some crazy antics at times and can become obsessive about their playtime. Pugs need quality playtime but they also need to be taught moderation as they mature. A good example of this is my Pug-mix dog, Georgia, who absolutely loves her balls! She gets particularly attached to tennis balls and softer rubber balls that she can hold and squish in her mouth. She could walk around all day with a ball in her mouth if I allowed it! Georgia sneaks around with her favorite Chew King ball. In addition to her Insum Tennis Balls , Georgia really loves her Chew King balls which are easy for her to catch and hold in her mouth. Getting the ball back is a major challenge which usually involves high-value special food! I mostly use the harder Snub dog balls when we go to the dog park to play fetch. These are slightly bigger, very durable, and practically indestructible. And, because they are not as fun and squishable, she will actually bring them back to me. You can see more about my recommendations for balls and other toys on my recommended products page for dog toys. I think another reason Pugs get branded as being hyper is due to their incredibly high energy and playfulness, especially as puppies. A Pug pup will race around, bouncing from one thing to the next. Then he will suddenly crash in a heap and take a nap. Pugs only seem to know two speeds— fast forward and drop dead! Pugs get these incredible bursts of energy, which may seem like hyperactivity. But it is really just the way Pugs have fun and let off pent-up steam. As puppies, Pugs are probably more prone to zoomies and excitable behavior than other breeds. This will usually go on for about two years until they finally begin to mellow. Eventually, they will be content to hang out by your side and lounge around on the sofa. Mature Pugs have a reputation for being lap dogs who love to nap, which is why Chinese royalty loved them so much! An additional reason Pugs can sometimes become a little hyper is their love to explore! And, this often involves tasting the world with their tongue. Pugs are very motivated by anything they can taste, and they love to eat. If you want a Pug to do a trick, give her a treat! My dog Georgia wakes me up every morning by licking my nose see my post. She wants me to know that it is time for her breakfast and she is quite anxious about getting it! She will do just about anything for a small bit of food or even a crumb. My kitchen floors have never been so clean! And as a puppy, your Pug will need more frequent attention and brief play times at least times a day. Ensure Your Pug Gets Adequate Sleep — Whether your Pug is a puppy or an adult, having a consistent sleeping and waking schedule is extremely helpful. Consider using a crate as a quiet den for your new puppy for the first few months. Then when your dog gets older, make sure she has a comfy bed in a quiet space. A little bit is fine. But keep in mind that Pugs are not athletes. They have short little legs and stout bodies. A fun walk to the park or around the neighborhood should suffice. A couple of additional play times during the day for an adult is good, and a puppy will need play periods in between naps. Puzzle Games — Since Pugs love to eat, dog puzzle games that involve food keep them very engaged. I have two Outward Hound interactive food puzzles for my dogs and they love them. It keeps them engaged for at least minutes. These puzzles are fun and work their minds, which will help with pent-up energy. Sometimes simple Kong toys stuffed with kibble, peanut butter, or Cheese Whiz work pretty well for a quick distraction. Pugs Do Not Like to Be Alone — Pugs were bred to be companion dogs and they love nothing more than to be right by our side. Therefore, leaving a Pug alone for several hours each day could lead to separation anxiety click this link to see my post. Pugs do best in a family in which someone will be home at least for part of the day. If this is not possible, have a friend or neighbor spend some time with your pooch each day. If you want a really independent dog, a Pug may not be the best choice for you. But if you work at home, a Pug could be ideal. Training — Obedience training is always helpful, but especially with a Pug who has a tendency to be a bit stubborn and even mischievous at times. Training classes will help to socialize your Pug, provide your Pug with a routine, and help with discipline issues. Going to classes together is also a great way to bond with him. Training is also a great way to help a dog stay calm as he learns what you want him to do, and he will be more clear about what is expected of him. Final Thoughts Pugs may seem hyper, but they are mostly just happy energetic dogs. Once you get through the puppy stage and have some training and a routine established, your Pug will become a fun, relaxed dog who will sleep on your lap, play with you, lick you, and be a great companion! Share this post:. Pug Exercise Overview Exercising your Pug plays an essential role in long-term health and is a vital part of overall care. While you must take care when exercising your little guy or gal, by no means should you avoid it or be afraid of it. A sedentary Pug is an unhealthy Pug. The key is to find the right balance. The Benefits of Exercising a Pug There are many reasons to keep your Pug active: 1 It helps maintain muscle tone which in turn promotes good posture and proper support surrounding the hips and knees. Since this breed is prone to elbow dysplasia, Legg-Calve-Perthes and hip dysplasia, this is a very relevant benefit. Exercise Restrictions for Pugs Pugs can and should be exercised every day. However, there are some restrictions to keep in mind. You will want to avoid: 1 Excessive exercise when under 10 months old. This is a time of rapid growth and very excessive exercise can affect growth plates, the soft areas at the end of bones where cells continually divide, allowing bones to properly grow as the pup matures into his adult size. Once growth is complete, the plates close. If a puppy is put under too much physical stress, there can be damage to those plates which can lead to malformed or shortened limb s. Normal walking and play are not considered excessive. You will want to avoid lengthy full-out runs or forcing activity when a pup has reached his limit. This breed is prone to bloat. To help prevent this, avoid having your dog run around in the yard or taking a purposeful, brisk walk until one hour has passed after a meal. Pugs, being a brachycephalic breed, have some level of stenotic nares narrow nostrils and elongated palate soft tissue at the back of the root of the mouth partially blocks the windpipe. This can cause noisy breathing and it limits to what extent a Pug can endure physical activity. Heavy breathing is also an indication of heat stress that if not addressed can lead to heat stroke. During an exercise session, breaks should be taken every 15 minutes or so; but, should be halted if a Pug is struggling to catch their breath. When the temperature is soaring and especially if the air is very humid this can exacerbate breathing issues. Activity may need to be scaled back or brought inside. Age to Start Exercising a Pug If you just brought home a new puppy, you may be very eager to start taking your Pug for walks around the neighborhood or head out to the dog park. However, Pug puppies should not be brought out to public places for exercise until all puppy shots have been given. This is typically by the age of 12 to 14 months old. You will want to confirm this with your Pug's veterinarian. This should be a light to moderate cardio that slightly increases heart rate and keeps a Pug's body in motion. This can be greatly extended for Pugs that are healthy and enthusiastic to stay more active than this. With precautions in place, a Pug can go for an hour walk or more and there can be 3 to 4 exercise sessions per day. Exercise frequency and duration can be adjusted as needed. Weather including hot summer days or freezing winter days can affect a Pug's tolerance for outdoor activity. It can help to split up exercise sessions into shorter intervals, for example, four minute walks as opposed to two minute walks. And, as a Pug transitions into the senior years or if there is a develop of hip or joint issues, exercise may need to be scaled back. In most cases, there is never a valid reason to completely stop exercising a Pug since remaining sedentary often leads to a wide range of health issues. Going for walks is the most traditional method of ensuring that a dog meets their exercise requirements and for good reasons. There is always a Point A and a Point B which gives you both a goal and helps ensure proper duration. And, unlike free-running, intensity can be adjusted by you, as you see fit. This is another excellent way to keep a Pug active. This refers to a controlled physical activity session, often with alternating short bouts of cardio and rest. The classic game of fetch fits into this category and is a good choice since most dogs find it to be very enjoyable and it helps strengthen the owner-dog bond. In addition, fetch can be played both indoors and out, making this perfect no matter the weather. Tips for Walking Your Pug By following some easy guidelines, you can take your Pug for walks knowing that you are allowing your dog to reap the benefits of exercise in a safe manner. When exercising a Pug, breathing-related issues must always stay a top priority. And, the accessories that you place on your Pug play a huge role in this. Collars place pressure and tension against the windpipe which can severely impact a Pug's ability to breath. Each pull on the leash or lunge to the side puts compression on already stressed airway structures. Avoid this by using a harness. This distributes tension from the leash onto the shoulders, back, and chest where Pugs have strong skeletal muscles. There are different types of harnesses including step-in and pull-overs, straps and vests. One recommended one is the Puppia Soft B Vest Harness which is an easy step-in design nothing needs to be pulled over the head with an air-mesh fabric that keeps a Pug comfortable and cool, and an easy-close Velcro flap on the back. When you take your Pug for walks, you will want to be in control of the pace and the easiest way to accomplish this is to have your Pug in a heeling position; this means to your immediate left and no further ahead than the extension of your foot. For this, you will hold the handle of the leash in your right hand, allow the leash to cross past your body, and then grip it near your left hip. Using a 6-foot leash or a retractable leash will help you feel comfortable when doing this. For this, you may wish to consider the Flexi Retractable Dog Leash which has a very comfortable grip and a one-handed brake button. Offer a break for rest and hydration at the halfway mark of a short walk and every 15 to 20 minutes on a long walk. This should be done even if your Pug seems to be handling their exercise just fine and there are no signs of overheating. You may wish to bring along a collapsible bowl and a chilled water bottle or an all-in-one option like the Tuff Pupper Portable Water Bottle. Concrete, pavement, and brick can all reach over F degrees during the summertime which can cause burns to the paws. If you cannot hold your palm to the surface for a count of 5, it's too hot for your Pug to walk on. Paw wax see tip 7, ahead , staying in the shade, or rescheduling walks for early morning and later in the evening can help with this; generally taking your Pug out before 10 AM and after 5 PM will help you avoid the hottest parts of the day. Keep your Pug securely in a heel position so you can react to and help with any traction issues. Paw wax see next tip can help with this. On days that the temperature is below freezing, limit the duration of the walk. And, during stormy weather snow or ice storms your dog's safety is more important than that one exercise session, so the walk may need to be put on hold. Paws take a beating when a dog is out and about. Hot walking surfaces, frozen walking surfaces, allergens, irritants, and slippery small gravel or ice surfaces are all possible issues. Applying a paw wax can help with all of these aspects. A good one to use is Musher's Secret Paw Protection Wax ; this absorbs pretty quickly, only has to be applied once every 2 weeks, and does a great job at offering a breathable layer of protection and better traction. The last thing you want to happen is that your Pug tires out once you're at the halfway mark and still need to turn around and cover the same amount of distance to return home. On the first day, go half the distance and see how your Pug did. You can then add on more distance the next time. With your little guy or gal on a harness and in the heeling position previous tip 1 , you can speed up, slow down, go around telephone poles, swerve around bushes, etc. This can be played in many places including your own yard or a park or can be kept inside on days with bad weather as long as you have room in your house. Some dogs naturally know how to play and others need a bit of time to catch on. Here are some tips to keep this a fun and beneficial activity. If this is going to replace a walk, set a timer for 15 to 20 minutes. The more animated you are and the more you let yourself laugh, the more your Pug will want to chase after the fetch toy and enjoying bringing it back to you for another go. Even if your Pug can't catch the ball in the air or is a bit confused about what to do, your encouraging words will keep things moving along. Give praise for 'good tries' and effort that your Pug puts into the game. And, offer a reward treat when the game is complete. A fun fetch toy for outside games is the Chuckit! Flying Squirrel Spinning Toy ; this brightly colored fabric toy does some pretty wild soaring and is easy for a dog to mouth. And, if you have some space in your house like a large room or a long hallway, you can play fetch with your Pug using a toy like the Chuckit! Indoor Roller Dog Toy. There is an optional launcher that shoots the ball for you, if your arm needs a rest. While you do want to keep your Pug moving for at least 15 minutes, it's best to end the game while your little guy or gal is still having fun. This will help your puppy or dog look forward to the next session. If your Pug has a hard time accepting that the game is over and is clamoring at you to continue, you can give one last throw and then offer a reward treat as a sign that the session is truly over. Switching to a new activity like brushing the coat can help your Pug make the transition. Alternative Ways to Keep a Pug Active 1 Dog parks can be a great place for a Pug to move around if he is otherwise reluctant at home. Interacting with other dogs can be motivation to run around and can be a good way to build social skills. You will want to be sure to visit a park that has separate areas for dogs based on size. Never let your Pug into an area with much larger dogs. Keep an eye on your Pug to assess breathing and separate him for breaks and re-hydration as needed. Keeping visits to the park to 1 hour is a good time limit. This is a low-impact exercise that is sometimes used in recovery therapy for dogs being treated for joint issues. This said, since the Pug has a barrel-shaped body, this breed is not the most proficient swimmer. Play it safe by having your Pug wear a canine life vest and staying by their side for close supervision. Be sure to rinse your dog off afterward to make sure chlorine and pool chemicals are washed from the skin and coat. Pugs can go on hikes and explore many places with their humans. If you search for hiking places to bring your Pug, the 3 aspects to focus on are distance, difficulty, and terrain. It's recommended to stick to trails no longer than 2 miles if you plan to loop around , those rated as easy or introductory, and with a terrain of solid, soft, or gently rolling hills avoiding those marked steep or rough. A Final Word Since the Pug breed is prone to weight gain and certain joint issues, exercise is an important part of care that will help keep your dog's body in good shape, maintain important muscle mass, keep the heart healthy, and burn calories. Pugs tend to mimic their owners; if their human is happy to sit around all day, a Pug may be perfectly content to snooze the day away. But, if their human sends out a vibe that engaging in exercise is fun, a Pug is often more than happy to join in. Keep your Pug active while being away of their limitations; it's an important step in extending your Pug's life span to be as long as possible. Did you find this to be helpful? Are you a PetPugDog Member? If not, join us today by becoming a free Membe r; this will allow you to receive newsletters that announce new articles and important information. Other articles you may like: Pug Paw Care - Great tips to keep the paws in good shape and remedies for common yet troublesome paw issues. Leaving a Pug Home Alone - It's not easy heading out to work, school, or even to run errands if you know your Pug has a hard time being alone. This article offers super-helpful tips for keeping a Pug occupied and happy while you're away. Top Pug Care Tips - A helpful round-up of the 15 things you can do to ensure your Pug puppy or dog for optimal safety, health, and happiness. Taking Care of a Pug's Teeth - Ignoring the teeth now can have terrible consequences later. Learn how to keep your Pug's teeth strong and healthy. Includes breed bite set and common issues. All rights reserved. Privacy Policy We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Surly Squirrel Will Arnett and the gang are back. They are still in Oakton where the evil mayor has decided to bulldoze Liberty Park and build a dangerous amusement park in its place. Surly and his ragtag group of animal friends band together to save their home, defeat the mayor, and take back the park. The mayor has an animal control squad patrolling the park. And Surly has offended Mr Feng, an adorable city mouse with killer kung-fu skills. First of all, print off a welcome sign for your guests! Pug Puppy Hot Dogs Next make some food for your guests. We made these adorable puppy-themed pigs-in-a-blankets. Plus we had cookies, drinks and fruit. So easy to make! Just take a sheet of crescent dough and shape 6 big balls for the puppy faces and 12 smaller balls for the ears. Attach two ears to each bigger ball of dough, bake, use olives to shape eyes and noses and cut the dough horizontally and insert a cooked hot dog! We made some super-simple homemade Peanut Butter Dog Treats! This 4-ingredient puppy bone recipe is coming up next week too! Pug Puppy Party Ideas A tutorial on these fun party wands and printable puppy faces is coming up next week! All opinions are my own. Written by: Dr. Katy Nelson June 13, Living close to Central Park definitely has it perks, especially when you are a dog parent. Pugs have a reputation for being homebodies without much sense of adventure, but Hugo is far from that. The Ramble is located north of 74th St. Dogs must be on leash at all times in the Ramble. It is here where we feel the most secluded and at peace in the park. Dogs must be on leash at all times in the North Woods. Posing for Pics at Summit Rock and Turtle Pond If venturing out to remote places of the park is not your idea of fun, head to more accessible areas that are also great for taking photos like Turtle Pond or Summit Rock. These places are less remote, but great for photo ops. Both are a short walk from the W. In the warmer months, you might even see a few turtles swimming around at Turtle Pond. Head to Summit Rock to catch a view of wooded slopes to the east while sitting and relaxing on the amphitheater-like stone steps. I like taking Hugo there during off-leash hours in the morning where he loves to play fetch. When I go out with Hugo, I bring his bottle of water with a water dish attached. A number of water fountains are situated throughout the park, but bring water just in case you cannot find one near where you are walking. Also, there are many opportunities to just sit and relax underneath the shade of a tree or on a cool grassy area. Always check the weather before you go so that you and your pup can be prepared for anything. Please clean up after your dog, including hair that is brushed off in the park. Dogs must be on-leash at all times from 9am to 9pm. Even during off-leash hours, some areas of the park require dogs be on leash at all times. For more information please visit the Central Parks website.

She loves exercise. I always tie her to my bike and she runs next to me. She has never shown aggression but usually barks when a stranger knocks at the door. I taught her the commands sit, down, stay and come here. My sister taught her to say "Hi" with her paws. Her parents May and June came to Nepal from Japan. My Japanese friend gifted me with Dixy at the age of 1 and a half months. She is very friendly to every person who comes to my house. She likes to sit beside me all the time. Early mornings she likes to drink half a liter of cow's milk, at around 11 a. She enjoys chewing bones all of the time. Beau is trained in protection and obedience. She is a bit overweight due to her hip dysplasia, but still maintains her amazing personality and quality look of a Shepherd. Beau loves to play in the snow or in her kiddy pool in the summers. She is a very active old girl. She is super friendly and just strives on attention. Beau has three siblings, which happen to be cats. She loves to curl up with the cats in the living room to take a nap. She is currently training for her CDX, has won a few blue ribbons in conformation, and just began Schutzhund training. Apollo the GSD—"He is very clever and energetic. He weighs 85 pounds and his height is 26 inches. Black and Tan This is the color most of us think of when we picture a German Shepherd dog. With a rich tan undercarriage and a black face and back, this color of GSD has been around since the very first was officially registered back in Germany at the end of the 19th century. Although Horand von Grafrath was a little darker than the modern black and tan GSD, the ancestry is evident. With their luxurious white coats, these pale dogs look more like Golden Retrievers with erect ears. Despite their popularity, like the white German Shepherd, the blue has been a cause of controversion in the Shepherd world because recessive dilution gene comes with inbreeding practices and health issues. Blue German Shepherds may appear gray or even silver and are sometimes mistaken for a Blue Belgian Malinois. Isabella This unusual coat color variation is another washout as far the AKC is concerned, which is a shame given how striking it is. It originates from genetically combining liver and blue dilution genes. Like the liver and blue German Shepherd dogs, Isabella GSDs often have unusual eye coloring and different colored noses. Liver German Shepherds will usually have a brown nose. Blue German Shepherds have a blue nose. There is no evidence that the Isabella coloration makes the dog more susceptible to health issues. However, Isabella is a recessive trait. Selecting for recessive traits always limits the gene pool and makes dogs more susceptible to genetic conditions. Grey Not to be confused with the silver, black, or blue German Shepherds, the gray variety look more wolf-like with their dark coats. Some breeders specialize in producing dogs of this unusual color. Silver Similar to the gray German Shepherd, silver is nevertheless recognized as a distinct color. Often grouped together, however, the gray and silver colors are produced by the same genes. Finding a breeder that specializes in silver German Shepherds is a lot easier than finding one that focuses on the grey, so this might be your best bet if you want a more exotic-looking companion. Silver is an uncommon color for GSDs, possibly because it is a recessive gene. Similar to the dilution gene, this gene influences black pigment. While you also get silver sable German Shepherds, the patterned coats mean they are categorized as sable rather than silver. However, silver German Shepherds are often seen in military work or the police force. The red color is the result of the color gene pheomelanin. It can have any shade of red, ranging from strawberry blonde to a deep mahogany red. Alongside black and tan, the black and red combination is preferred over others by German Shepherd breeders. As black and red are both produced by dominant genes, this color combination is easier to breed for, and many breeders focus on producing purebred dogs with deep red coloring. Sable A classic color for the German Shepherd, a sable comes in a variety of colors but each hair sports a black tip. Sable GSDs can be black, gray, red, silver, or tan and are also known as agouti. Agouti is a type of coloring also present in other dogs, like the Agouti Husky. In this coloring each hair has several bands of brown and black, leading to a typical wolf-like coloration. Some founding members of the German Shepherd breed believed this should be the only color present in German Shepherds. Black sables are born as all-black pups and tri-colored sables are born as black and tan puppies. As the puppy ages, their coloring changes. Some GSDs may take as long as three years to develop their final sable coloration. As every sable GSD is different, with the color and pattern both varying, it makes for an eye-catching and unique dog. Sable is a dominant color that is easy to breed for. If you breed a Sable German Shepherd to any other color, you will likely get sable puppies. Black and Silver Much like the black and tan GSD, a black and silver German Shepherd usually has a silver saddle across its back, although the pattern and hue both vary from dog to dog. Like the silver GSD, the black and silver coloration occurs only when the recessive intensity suppression gene is present. This color is not common in the AKC show ring and can mostly be found in working dog lines. Because these dogs are not visible in the dark, it is highly advisable to only walk them on a light-up dog collar in the evenings and at night. Bicolor Bicolor German Shepherds appear almost completely black and, to fit the breed standard, must have black heads, back, legs and tail. Even if their paws are brown, the heels need to be black by the color standard definition. However, the AKC accepts bicolor as a recessive color in the breed. Though technically allowed in the show ring, these dogs are mostly found in working lines. Black and Cream The last official color on our list, the black and cream GSD remains true to its origins as a lighter version of the common red and tan coloring. There is some controversy surrounding the black and cream variation. Most AKC breeders do not want them to participate in the show ring. They strive to breed darker dogs that do not show the light cream coloring. The color does little to change their character, however, and black and cream GSDs excel obedience, nosework, rally and agility and are as loyal and brave as their black and tan cousins. Her DNA proved them wrong, although the Panda coloration remains unrecognized by some kennel clubs and breeders. The Panda GDS is created by a rare genetic mutation. The genes responsible for an all-white body and the patchy white are two different ones. This does not stop them from being popular however! There is a large demand for Panda-colored German Shepherds. Unfortunately, this inflates the price and leads breeders to focus on the color mutation rather than genetic health, so be sure to only source a puppy from a reputable breeder. Albino An albino German Shepherd is incredibly rare. An albino of any species or breed lacks any pigmentation, including of the skin, hair, and eyes as well as the blood vessels, resulting in a pinkish tinge. You can distinguish an albino German Shepherd from a white one by checking his eyes and nose. A White GDS will have some pigmentation resulting in brown eyes, whereas albinos always have red or pink eyes. An Albino GSD, should one exist, may experience other health problems associated with the condition. They may, for example, be photosensitive, requiring protection from direct sunlight. What is the Rarest Color of the German Shepherd? The rarest color of German Shepherd is the isabella due to the recessive combination of liver and blue. You will have to search for a long time to get such a puppy — and his price will likely be high as well! What is the Best Color for a German Shepherd? The best color for a German Shepherd in the show ring is black and tan, followed by sable. If you are not planning on showing your dog through the AKC, you can pick any color you like. This is not based on any actual working abilities though and more of a myth that has been passed on through generations. What is the Original Color of a German Shepherd? As German Shepherd dogs were bred as working dogs, the original breeders focused on temperature rather than appearance. The original color of working German Shepherds was sable. The most traditional color in the show ring is black and tan. While you should pick the coloring you like the most, make sure to not just choose your dog based on his looks. German Shepherds are prone to developing back and hip issues. Before buying a puppy for his color, make sure that his breeder selects for health first and color second! Otherwise you might end up with a puppy with great color but poor health … which is never a good thing. Unleash the real potential of your companion! We will email you daily with training tips, ideas and videos. This is an introductory course into our training philosophy. You will get customized video lessons based on your training goals — and you can implement them in just 5 minutes a day.

Balance Out the Entire Body There is no denying that poodles are high-maintenance canines that will require a lot of grooming. However, if you have the willingness and patience, every owner can learn the skill to groom these furballs. Read on to know about all the important steps which are necessary to groom a standard poodle at home. Prepare the Space for Grooming Kitchen counters are often considered the best spots for grooming canines. This is because they provide ample space for your dog to lay down and stay there for a while. However, you will need to create a comfortable arrangement for your pooch by using blankets and towels. Poodle Report suggests that you can also purchase a foldable dog grooming table paid link for your pup. This will make things even cozier because this product is specifically designed for this purpose. This is important because the coat should be completely clean and dry to ensure a smooth and pain-free experience. Use a pet-friendly shampoo and conditioner to bathe your pooch. Make sure that these cleaning products are removed properly from the fur. Dry your dog with a towel to absorb most of the moisture. Then, use a hairdryer to complete the drying process. Be mindful of difficult-to-reach areas, like armpits, and untangle all the knots before proceeding. Groom the Face and Neck Start by ensuring that the head of your poodle is secure and still. When the pooch is in position, start clipping the hair towards the ear. Keep the blade flat against the cheek and facing away from the eyes at all times. Once you are done with the face, shift your focus towards the neck. Start shaving from the neck towards the chin while keeping the nose upward. This will allow you to pull the neck skin taut, which is quite helpful for preventing painful nicks. Dogington Post advises the owners to use the same blade setting to get a uniform trim. Move the trimmer from the nape of the neck towards the tail while keeping the blade parallel to the back. Move to the Torso and Legs Once you are done with the back, you can start grooming the legs of your dog. If your canine friend is not willing to lie down, make sure they are well-balanced while trimming their legs. Clip downwards from the chest towards the belly and then from the base of the rib cage towards the armpits. Keep brushing the body while trimming to ensure a smooth finishing to the coat. For the legs, begin at the top of each leg and groom all the way to the ankle. You can clip the hair from these parts by gently lifting the opposite leg. Clip the Hair on the Feet One by one, hold a paw in your hand and trim the extra hair on the paws. You should also remove the superfluous fluff between the toes by separating the paw pads. Move the trimmer from the outside of the toes towards the inside. Groom the Tail The tail of your poodle can be trimmed as thin or round, depending upon your preference. Irrespective of the style you select, observe a lot of caution during this step. Balance Out the Entire Body After trimming all the body parts, you need to even out the hair of your poodle. This step is extremely important to give the desired visual appearance to your pooch. Start by setting up a standard for the length of coat you want. After that, use the trimmer to even out the entire body of your dog. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Brushing is important for all dogs, but especially for poodles. Poodle hair can easily get matted together as the dog sheds, and for this reason, it is often recommended that poodles with long hair be brushed every day. Brushing once or twice every week is generally acceptable if the dog has shorter hair. Use a slicker brush to gently remove thick tangles and mats. It's important to remove mats whenever you find them, as they can pull at the skin, causing discomfort to your pet. Because of the way they shed their hair, poodles are prone to matting if they go for long periods without grooming. In extreme cases, matting can cause skin infections that are painful for your pet. Marie has over 10 years of pet grooming experience specializing in dogs and cats. Marie Lin Licensed Pet Groomer Expert Warning: If you have to cut out a thick mat, use scissors to cut through in the direction of the hair growth—not across! Also, be sure you can see the pointed tip of the scissors before you cut, to ensure you don't cut the dog's skin. Afterward, the mat should be loose enough to be combed out. You should be sure to bathe your dog before trimming him with clippers, as dirty or overly oily fur can prematurely dull your clipper blades. The ASPCA recommends bathing your dog every three months or so unless more frequent baths are required. Some dogs treasure bath time, while others dislike being bathed. If your dog does not enjoy bathing, you may want to get a helper to aid you in keeping the dog in the tub during the bath. Use a cup or a pitcher to flush water all over your poodle from head to tail. If you massage your poodle's back while rubbing in the shampoo, he may enjoy the bath a bit more. Use a shampoo specifically made for dogs. Continue rinsing with clean water until the water runs clear and no longer appears soapy. It's important to clean inside and under your dog's ears to prevent bacteria, yeast, and parasites from living there. Use a toothbrush to gently remove plaque buildup around the base of your poodle's teeth. Choose a toothpaste made specifically for dogs. Your poodle will inevitably swallow some of the toothpaste, and human toothpaste can upset your dog's stomach. Brush gently. Remember, your dog may not be used to having its gums rubbed. Brushing too hard or fast can cause pain to your poodle's sensitive gums. Be consistent with your poodle's dental care. Brushing your dog's teeth can help prevent tartar buildup, which causes periodontal disease and can lead to potentially-fatal bacterial infections. But you also want to avoid trimming them too short, as this can cause bleeding. Harness if required Grooming a Poodle: Step by Step Now that you have all your supplies gathered prepare a work area. Think about how you can make this grooming experience a fun experience for your fur baby. If you can teach them to enjoy grooming and to have your hands on them, it is an excellent way to make vet visits, professional grooming appointments, and other tasks into an activity your poodle enjoys. So, think about lots of big fluffy towels, a favorite toy, some small treats for small rewards, and making things less clinical. Now you can get started! A super cute Poodle sitting on its owners lap Bathe Your Dog Have or help your dog step into a tub or into your bathing spot outside. So make your water temperature pleasant. Apply a doggy shampoo and work it into their coat, building a bit of foamy lather, paying close attention to any matted spots or areas that are especially dirty. Instead, consider using the towel to get a bunch of the water sopped up, and then use a hairdryer on the lowest heat setting to completely dry their coat. For safety, you may want to put your dog into their harness, so you can keep a strong grip on them. This is especially important for excitable puppies who may squirm around a lot or act unpredictably. You can always get a grooming table if you want to be super serious. Any of these grooming tables for Goldendoodles we reviewed would work. Instead, use a pair of sharp grooming scissors to trim off any hairs that are longer than the others. Holding the blades parallel to your poodle minimizes the risk of an accidental cut to their skin. Just trim the longest hairs. Take your time! Tips for clipping a Labradoodle Trim Fur When you turn on your electric clippers, it may startle your poodle, just like any alien sound might. So, consider turning the clippers on a few times and even letting your dog get used to seeing them, hearing them, and feeling the vibration on the clipper a few times. Then, you can use the clippers to trim their hair without making them panic. If they are anxious, try having them give you a paw to hold and offer a treat. Hold their paw and trim the fur with your clippers and reward them for going along with it. Trim the hair back closely, but not quite all the way down to the skin. Your electric clipper should have adjustable blades, so you might want to trim lower in some places and higher in others, with a particular poodle style in mind! Work your way down their neck, over their shoulders, and down the back. Work your way down their legs, and finally do each paw, being careful to trim a bit in between the toe pads. The last step to trimming is a quick brushing to remove any hair trapped in their curls. That can get very expensive, so knowing how to do so yourself can save you some money. Trimming their nails with a nail clipper is safe and you can do it pretty quickly if your pup is calm enough. Your poodle will be very sensitive to changes in your mood. Just like humans, regular tooth cleanings can go a long way in improving oral health and eliminating doggie-breath. So, put some dog toothpaste on your finger. Your dog needs to be comfortable with your fingers in their mouth, and so do you. You can use a small finger brush or even a soft toothbrush, but your finger is fine too. Start at the gum line, and work your way down the teeth. If you felt a lot of buildup on their teeth, consider getting them a tooth-cleaning chew toy. If you saw any signs of red or bleeding gums, black gums , cracked or crooked teeth, or your dog pulled away in pain during brushing, contact a veterinarian to have their mouth looked at. If you have more questions, check out our extensive library of information on poodles! My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More.

Pet Keen is reader-supported. When you buy via links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no cost to you. Learn more. But the good news is that there are plenty of high-quality breeders right here in Arkansas! Some of these breeders are so renowned, they ship their puppies all over the country! Pet Keen advocates for adopting before shopping. We understand there are many reasons for seeking a breeder, though, so we encourage it to be done the right way. We have not personally investigated all of the breeders below, rather, we have gathered their details for you to get in touch and ask all the right questions before you decide. Learn more about our position and how to choose a breeder here. The 7 Labrador Retriever Breeders in Arkansas 1. They will get your pet to you via air or ground, which is a service that few other breeders offer. They specialize in silver Labrador Retrievers, but they also have charcoal Labs with most litters. Each pup comes with a 2-year health guarantee, and the breeder provides genetic testing for each dog. All their dogs are AKC certified. Dogwood Silver Labs will transport your puppy throughout Arkansas or the surrounding area for a small fee. Each puppy comes with a health guarantee, two training sessions, and two days of boarding. Their puppies are a bit more expensive than most other breeders, but they have a more stringent application process to ensure that each puppy goes to a good home. They place a priority on finding quality pet owners. You can choose from black, yellow, or chocolate Lab puppies, all of which have relations assessed by OFA. They breed AKC-registered pups that are ideal for families Karemy Labs pays special attention to the health of their Labrador puppies. If you get your pup from them, you will enjoy a lifetime health guarantee for your pet. Mountain Spring Labs breeds AKC-registered Lab pups in rare colors such as fox-red, silver, and white alongside the usual ones. All their pups receive their first round of vaccinations and deworming treatment prior to their adoption. Mountain Spring also microchips their dogs while providing you proof of pedigree and a two-year health guarantee. They are a small-scale AKC certified breeder located in Greenbrier. What sets them apart is their commitment to ethical breeding practices. For over 20 years, they have never once declawed their litters. The kennel specializes in English Labradors. The pups are potty trained and undergo regular health inspections. If you want an obedient and well-trained dog, head straight to Cardon Ridge. Over the years, a lot of their puppies have gone on to become dog show winners and therapy dogs. Dogwood Silver Labs regularly deworms their litters and provides prospective adopters with a two-year health guarantee. Their puppies are genetically sound. From breeding successful horses to breeding Rottweilers, she finally settled on creating an ethical labrador breeding facility. Address: W. Through their in-house training program, they make sure your future pet is friendly yet sharp. All Ridge Creek puppies are regularly dewormed and immunized up to six weeks of age. You can take your pick from chocolate, yellow, and black puppies per your preference. Each litter undergoes strict health check-ups and deworming. Henderson Kennel also takes care to remove dewclaws from their puppies. You can opt to choose between limited and full AKC registration for their puppies.

One look and an instant calm will probably wash over you. Stress simply melts away. Because Golden Retrievers are notoriously loyal and obedient. They can look silly with their big goofy grins. Or they can look stoic and wise beyond their years with their striking, deep brown eyes. CutenessOverload Everything they do is adorable Just watching your pup go from an adorable average of 10 pounds right when you get them at 8 weeks old to a sizable 70 pounds at the year mark is cuter than anything you can imagine. Or falling asleep in your lap. Or busting your pup discreetly chewing on your brand new pair of sneakers in their new closet lair is the cutest. There are too many cute things! Everything will be adorable and glee-inducing if done by a Golden Retriever pup — even the behaviors that, by all logic, should annoy you to no end. This is a good thing because a puppy this adorable is definitely going to be a popular one. Golden Retriever puppies make friends with kids , adults, and other animals while keeping their trademark smiles on their faces. They are so friendly, in fact, that they may not be the best bet when looking for guard dogs. A Golden will usually greet any stranger, including during a break-in, with a welcoming smile on their face. But they will love you best Again, the loyalty of a Golden Retriever pup cannot be stressed enough; it is strong. At the end of the day, your athletic, big-pawed, adventurous, silly, and loving Golden pup will only have eyes for you. Remember, you can find just about any breed of dog you are looking for at a shelter or rescue. Christina Donnelly is a small animal expert focusing on dogs and writer with over 12 years of experience in animal welfare. In fact, golden retrievers have snagged the third spot for most popular dogs in the United States for the last several years! These pooches are on the larger side females range between 55 and 70 pounds, while males weigh in between 65 and 75 pounds and require lots of exercise, which may make some families shy away. But don't let their size—or high energy—deter you. Golden retrievers are highly intelligent, easy to train compared to other breeds of dogs , and incredibly friendly. Whether you're already a golden puppy parent or considering adding one to the family, read on to learn some fun facts and see some seriously cute photos! One even surmises that goldens are descendants of Russian circus dogs! These alternate theories were debunked, however, when the personal records of Lord Tweedmouth of Inverness, Scotland were made public. Lord Tweedmouth was an avid waterfowl hunter who wanted to breed a dog with some serious bird retrieving skills. So, in , he bred a yellow retriever named Nous with a liver-colored Tweed Water Spaniel named Belle. The result? A pack of puppies with the exact hunting skills he was looking for, which he dubbed golden retrievers. Golden retrievers were later brought to North America—sometime during the s—where they became hugely popular for their beautiful looks and sweet personalities. Then, in , they were officially recognized as a breed by the American Kennel Club. Continue to 2 of 9 below. They can range from a very light, snowy white, to a yellow-gold, to a dark, coppery red. No matter the color of their coat, however, it's important to never cut your golden retriever's hair—doing so can put her at risk of skin cancer, among other health issues. Their coats are made up of two layers—the long, silky, waterproof outercoat and soft, warming undercoat—and act as insulators against all types of weather. So, if you think to trim your golden's coat in the summer to keep it cool, think again! It'll be much cooler and its skin will be protected from the sun with its coat intact. Continue to 3 of 9 below. Bred to fetch waterfowl, golden retrievers love a good swim session but would be just as happy with long walks, games of fetch, or even agility games. Aim for about one hour of exercise each day, but keep your dog's age and activity levels in mind—you may have to adjust accordingly. Continue to 4 of 9 below. If taken to a rescue site, for example, they can quickly learn how to perform search and rescues to help those in need. In addition to their smarts, golden retrievers' downright sweet demeanors make them the perfect pick for therapy dogs. They can bring a lot of comforts—and joy—to people who have experienced traumatic events, are living in hospitals, or are stressed out during college exams. Continue to 5 of 9 below. Their love of food can cause health problems like obesity, diabetes, and cardiovascular disease , so it's important to feed your golden the right amount of food for her weight, age, and activity level. Not sure how much is right for your dog? Talk to your vet about a healthy diet. And take it easy on the treats! It's true that goldens love to eat, but they like to carry non-food items in their mouths, too. Their mouthy nature makes everyday stuff such as sticks, shoes, or even the remote control a highly prized possession. Because golden retrievers have very gentle mouths, challenges such as the golden retriever egg challenge—in which a golden is tasked with holding an uncooked egg in its mouth without breaking it—have popped up all over the web. Continue to 6 of 9 below. Tons of major movies, such as the "Air Bud" series, "Homeward Bound," "A Dog's Purpose," and even thrillers such as "Poltergeist" and "Friday the 13th" have goldens in the credit roll. What's more? There are a few golden retrievers in presidential history, too. Presidents Ronald Reagan and Gerald Ford had goldens during their presidencies. Golden retrievers are often considered the all-American dogs, so it makes sense, right? Continue to 7 of 9 below. Todd, the sweet golden pictured here, is one of those puppy heroes. During their hike, Paula nearly stepped on a rattlesnake—and when the snake lunged at her, Todd jumped in front of her to protect her. Although Todd was bitten on the nose and had severe swelling in his face, he's expected to make a full recovery. Because of his heroic deed, the internet has hailed Todd as a very, very good boy. And believe it or not, Todd has found a way to be an even better boy: He has a GoFundMe page to help other heroic doggies who have suffered from the same injuries. Continue to 8 of 9 below. Even in their senior years, it's not uncommon for older goldens to keep up with their puppy counterparts. Continue to 9 of 9 below. And for good reason! Not only are they adorable, but they prove goldens are some of the sweetest puppers around, too. They're one of the most popular dog breeds in America, and there's no surprise why. Besides being smart, active dogs, they're also gorgeous and oh so photogenic. It's no wonder goldens are some of the biggest pet influencers filling our feeds! Gus He's a runner, he's a track star! No seriously, Gus crushes the competition in agility courses. He especially loves dock diving and has even earned his Dock Elite title. What a good boy. Hinckley Parks It seriously can't get any cuter than this. Hinckley Parks' baby brother Teddy loves to snuggle in all his soft golden fur, and we can't blame him. It's no wonder golden retrievers are one of the best family pets in America: they're great with kids! But this one with Jaxson and Sawyer actually turned out adorable! The only thing that seems to be missing from the party are some birthday treats.Margo Who doesn't love splashing around in the water on a hot summer day? Swimming is one of the best ways for dogs to get exercise, and golden retrievers are natural at it. Plus, Margo's coat is absolutely glowing in the sunshine—how photogenic! Maggie Maggie's glasses make her look to be one smart cookie—because she probably is! Golden retrievers are one of the smartest dog breeds. She's serving sophistication, and we're here for it. Arrowood Family What's better than a golden? Five goldens! Sage, Waverly, Tori, Jimmie, and baby Presley are the definition of family goals. I mean, how often can you get five pups to look at the camera? Thor As long as the camera's off, the boss won't suspect a thing, right? After watching us all struggle through WFH life for a year, our dogs are sure going to miss us when we return to the office. Or maybe they'll be like Thor the golden retriever and replace us altogether. Louie Talk about lifegoals! Nothing feels better than a car ride with the windows down and the wind blowing through your hair fur. Krembo Uh, hello, tongue! Krembo's letting it all hang out and we can't blame him. If only we could reach through the screen and boop that nose. And also have us craving some snacks. We could all use a little frolic through a flower field some days, but we'll have to live vicariously through Lola for now. Henry Golden retrievers make wonderful service animals , and Henry proves that they can look good while doing so. He deserves all the pets in the world—but only once he's off the clock. Drake Cue the "awwwws" because this is one of the cutest dogs we've ever seen. His smile tells us all we need to know: he's definitely one of the happiest golden retrievers in the world. Was this page helpful? I've photographed many families along with their beloved dog, often a Golden. I've had numerous Golden Retrievers in my training classes over the years, whether they be reds, English Cremes or the beautiful blonde that we so typically think of when we think of a Golden Retriever. Goldens hail from Scotland originally and are known as a hard-working breed, often employed as service animals and therapy dogs. They're also known for their voracious appetites, young-at-heart personalities and their penchant for carrying things in their mouths particularly when excited. Goldens are intelligent, athletic dogs, and are exceptional competitors in dog sports like obedience, agility, dock diving and more. Golden Retrievers gorgeous coats and perennially smiling face make them a dream to photograph, especially during their little butterball puppy stage. When Moana's that's "mow-ah-nah" dog mom contacted me for cute little puppy pics, of course I said "Yes" right after I squealed with delight and we quickly secured a session on the calendar before she got any bigger! The sun was shining, the flowers were in bloom and Moana romped and played and we caught it all. At the viewing and ordering appointment, Brenda had a hard time narrowing down her favorites because Moana's just that cute, but we eventually got there. She decided on ordering two plush blankets one for her and one for Moana's bed along with a digital negative package which is presented in a handmade reclaimed barn wood box with a metal print on the cover and a 5x7 print of each image inside along with a USB drive with all the high resolution digital image files. Doggy Daddy: Tucker I was recently contacted by the Creed family to take their family portraits and they requested that I take a few pet portraits of their very special family member, Tucker. It was only later when Moana's mom shared her Christmas mini session photo of Moana with them see below , that the Creeds asked if those were taken by Penny Whistle Photography. Brenda contacted me afterward to say "You just photographed Moana's daddy". Small world indeed and now I know where Moana gets her good looks! Tracy Allard of Penny Whistle Photography is a Certified Professional Photographer with the organization Professional Photographers of America; a designation held by fewer than 2, photographers nationwide and a hallmark of consistency, technical skill, artistry and professionalism. Tracy offers special services to local Dallas - Fort Worth dog and cat breeders, creating unique images for their websites, social media and marketing purposes. Contact her to find out more about this offering.

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