miniature english bulldog puppies for sale in massachusetts

miniature english bulldog puppies for sale in massachusetts - Eating, sleeping and staying warm are the three primary needs of puppies, and most of these are taken care of by their mother. It is important that newborn boxer puppies stay with their mother for the first eight weeks of their lives. In the first 24 to 36 hours of their lives, boxer puppies will be exposed to the colostrum in their mother's milk; it's important in them receiving lifesaving antibodies and nutrients. The average weight of a newborn boxer puppy is 1 pound, and during his first few weeks he will grow rapidly. At this time they will begin to play with litter-mates. At 4 weeks, boxer puppies can be introduced to wet commercial food, although they will still nurse as well. Introduce them to as many toys and sounds as possible, to allow them to adjust at a young age. Most newborn puppies are taken to the vet for the first time between 6 and 8 weeks of age, getting their first rounds of shots and having a general checkup. At 7 and 8 weeks, they are no longer nursing and are eating a mix of wet and dry puppy food. By this time they have become well-socialized and are on their way to being happy, trained pups. They can eat solid puppy food and begin to be house-trained. You can help your new boxer puppy adjust to his new home by bringing home some blankets or toys that smell like his litter-mates; these will remind him of his first few weeks of life. More Articles. Select Options How to treat your newborn Boxers during their first 8 weeks If you have a litter of a newborn Boxer puppies you should prepare to be close to them at least for 8 first weeks of their life. It is the crucial time when you have to be ready for any situation, as it is the time when the health of your puppy is shaped. Day 1 During this day mother-dog will feed her babies with Colostrum. This is a milky liquid that contains a lot of nutrients, providing the puppies with vital antibodies. This day can be called a " sleepy day", as the puppies will sleep almost all the time when not drinking. If the puppies' bodies are warm, they breathe naturally and make soft noises, they are full and fine. On the first day the puppies cannot eliminate waists from their organism themselves yet, so their mother will lick them to stimulate this process. Boxer puppies have their eyes still closed and it will stay this way for days. The umbilical cord still remains, as it is rather damp and not ready to fall off. Day 2 On this day your puppies can lose weight. Don't be afraid, it is absolutely normal. However, take care that the larger puppies don't push the weaker puppies off the nipple. Day 3 If you decided to dock your puppies' tails, it is the best day to do it. Consult with your vet and consider carefully your decision. It is also the day when the cord is dry enough to fall off. On this day you should remove the dewclaws, if you decided to do so. Remember, that it should be done only by your experienced veterinarian. Week 1 During this week you should weigh your puppy each day. Take a basket lined with a soft and clean towel and measure it first. Then put the puppy into the basket. Thus, you will be able to calculate accurate number. Each day your puppies must gain weight. If there is no increase, contact your vet immediately. The nails should be trimmed each day as they grow very quickly. Please, do it very carefully for not to hurt your dog. You must trim off only a small "hook" of the nail. Week 2 It is the time when your small Boxers begin to open their eyes. It is a slow process so be patient. The puppies still hold close to their mom, but they already make their attempts to communicate with you. Week 3 It is a "chatting time". Now the puppies should fully open their eyes. The ear canal is also should be fully formed so the small Boxers start hearing their voices and barking. Be ready that your little travelers will make an attempts to leave their place. Now they have everything to learn the world better! Although it is not desirable to allow them to run about the house as they can harm themselves. Connect one or more boxes together, thus, making a big "playing ground". This way, your puppies will have enough place to communicate and play with each other. And it will be a safe place! Week 4 On the 4th week you may start feeding your puppies with solid food. Make a mixture containing 14 of puppy dog food and 34 of water. Begin with small amounts. You should habituate your puppies to solid food gradually and slowly as their digestive system cannot accept it at once. You can also remove extra heating. The temperature in the room must be 72 F 23 C. Week 5 It is the time when you can give toys to your puppies. You still have to check their weight, but not necessarily each day. Normal weight should vary between 2 lbs. Gradually make the food more solid by adding more puppy dog food and less water. Mother-dog is tired and exhausted so she would like to spend less time with her children. It is a perfect time for your interaction with the puppies. They will be very happy to play with you. Week 6 On the 6th week you may introduce your puppies a new world. Be ready that your small Boxers will become more active and start eating a lot. However, it is still too early for training. It is better to involve them into outdoor walkings. Try to walk them separately and beware of other dogs. Your puppies will be really fascinated to feel the warmth of the sun and soft touch of the grass! Week 7 You Boxer puppies do not require nursing any more. It is a great time when they grew up enough to involve you in their quite active games. Outdoor walks must become a daily routine. You should also take mother-dog with you as well. She will start educating her children all necessary skills. This week is perfect to pass to the usual routine of dog feeding, grooming, exercise and playing. Week 8 During this week the puppies should have their first vaccinations. If you are not going to keep all the puppies, it is a good time to find a new home for them. Make sure that you give them to the kind and loving people, who will take care of their small Boxers. If you are going to keep all or some puppies, you can begin training them as well as falling back into your normal dog care schedule. As a medium to large-sized dog breed, Boxers need more time to fill out and reach their full size than smaller dog breeds. As a general rule, expect your Boxer to grow until they are 18 to 24 months old. Keep in mind that this range is an estimate, so there are always exceptions. Image Source: Canva How big should a 6-month-old Boxer be? A 6-month-old male Boxer should weigh around 41 to 48 pounds, while a 6-month-old female Boxer will weigh about 39 to 44 pounds. According to Care. For a male Boxer puppy, this would be around 17 to 19 inches tall. Pro Tip: Check out this downloadable new puppy checklist covering topics like vaccination schedules, setting up the home for a new puppy, teething, veterinary visits, and more! How much bigger will my Boxer get? There are several ways to estimate how much bigger your Boxer will grow. If your Boxer is less than two years old, they are likely still growing. Some Boxers stop growing closer to 18 months, but many Boxers will continue to fill out in weight and body size until they are two years old. A puppy will rarely be larger than either parent, so this can give you a clearer idea of their maximum size. Do their paws look oversized compared to their legs and the rest of their body? This is a strong sign that your Boxer is still growing and filling out! What is the size of a full-grown Boxer? According to the American Kennel Club Official Boxer Standards , a full-grown male Boxer will stand around 23 to 25 inches tall, while a female Boxer will stand about .A fully grown male Boxer will weigh around 60 to 70 pounds, with their female counterpart will weigh about 55 to 65 pounds. As with many things, prevention is always better than treatment. Taking your Boxer to regular veterinary appointments is one of the best things you can do for their health, along with consistent love and care at home. One of the best things you can do at home is brush your dog's teeth regularly to help prevent painful periodontal disease and avoid pricey dental treatments in the future. Periodontal disease can cause bad breath and oral pain for your pup and may require your Boxer to have a dental cleaning or tooth extractions under anesthesia at some point in their lives if not attended to at home. Keeping your Boxer at a healthy weight is crucial for their longevity, overall health, and happiness. If your Boxer is overweight, talk to your veterinarian to develop a weight loss strategy so that you can get them back on track. Consult with your veterinarian about the ideal food and exercise for your Boxer. Like all dogs, Boxers have certain conditions that they are prone to. Boxers are a purebred dog breed prone to heart problems, like cardiomyopathy, heart valve narrowing, and congenital heart defects. Brachycephalic syndrome increases their risk of respiratory distress, allergies, heatstroke, and sinus problems. Regular veterinarian appointments are crucial in finding and treating illness early to give your Boxer the healthiest and longest life possible. Unfortunately, veterinary bills can be costly with many treatments for emergencies and illnesses, such as heart problems, being thousands of dollars to treat. When surveyed, .The financial safety net provided by pet insurance is why pet insurance is worth it for many pet parents. Keep in mind that even healthy behaviors, like exercise, can be overdone. Consult with your veterinarian about how much exercise is prudent. Medium to large-sized dogs that are still growing may suffer from joint damage if they are overexercised. Make a plan with your veterinarian today to provide your Boxer with the ideal amount of exercise to keep them lean, healthy, and happy. Boxer puppies grow into strong and sturdy adults that make fun-loving, often silly companions, and fierce protectors. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. Boxer Newborn Puppy Care Overview If you have had a litter of Boxer puppies at your home and you are in charge of taking care of a newborn Boxer puppy, much attention must be taken during the first 8 weeks. From the moment of birth until the pups are at least 2 months old, a person must be close by and ready for any situation. Each week will bring new changes and responsibilities. This is a crucial time for care that can shape the health of the dog for its lifetime. How to Know if a Boxer Puppy is Getting Enough Milk The amount of times that a newborn puppy drinks milk from its mother varies from pup to pup. The important aspect is to know if a puppy is receiving enough throughout the day. Sometimes larger newborns will push their way to Mama and smaller puppies may not be getting enough milk. Some puppies may not be strong enough to suckle from smaller nipples some will be larger than others or strong enough to suckle once other pups have done so, and as the milk supply runs lower a puppy needs to suckle harder. How do you know if a Boxer puppy is getting enough milk? It is important to weigh each puppy. This can be done with a baby scale or electronic kitchen scale. Of course, take great care when weighing them. Always use the same type of blanket or cushioning on the scale so that you always get an accurate weight and the blanket does not affect the weight Weigh each puppy 2 times per day: AM and PM Keep careful track of who is who! You can do this by using a dot of white-out fluid applied to the ear in a certain area or other gentle marking method If a puppy shows no weight gain each day, you must take steps to ensure that pup receives more nutrition If a newborn is not gaining weight: Give the larger puppies a supplement Allow the smaller puppy to drink first; the larger puppies will have more strength to suck harder to retrieve their milk If There is a Weight Loss: This can be extremely dangerous. During the first few days it will not be milk; it will be Colostrum. This is a highly nutritional fluid that gives vital antibodies to the puppy. The puppy will sleep almost all the time, when not drinking. The Boxer pup will also make soft noises. As long as the puppy's body is warm and you feel him or her breathing naturally, all should be fine. A puppy this young will not be able to eliminate on its own. The mother will lick the pup to stimulate the expulsion of bowel or urine. Do not be shocked if the dam then eats this. The newborn Boxer puppy will have its eyes closed. They will stay this way for about 10 to 15 days. The umbilical cord will still be damp and certainly not ready to fall off. Day 2 It is perfectly normal for a Boxer puppy to lose weight on its 2nd day of life. Carefully watch for any Boxer newborn that seems to be getting pushed out of the way by other pups and unable to drink from mom. If this is happening, remove the other puppies after they feed and allow the hungry puppy to nurse alone, not bothered by their brothers and sisters. Day 3 Talk to your veterinarian regarding docking the tail , if you have decided to do so. This is often done on day 3. This decision should be carefully thought about. In addition, the Boxer puppy's cord will be dry and just about ready to fall off. Dewclaws, if removed, are usually done so on this day by your dog's experienced veterinarian. Week 1 Puppies should be weighed each day. This can be done by preparing a small basket, lined with a soft and clean towel. The basket can be placed on the scale first, with the weight noted. Then, the puppy should be placed inside the basket. Subtract the weight of the basket to have the exact weight of your Boxer puppy. There should be an increase each day. If not, be sure to immediately contact your dog's veterinarian. Nails grow very quickly and should be trimmed as often as each day if needed. A clotting solution, such as Kwik Stop should be used in case the quick of the nail is cut by accident something to carefully avoid. As the pup matures, many owners find that a grinder tool works much better than a clipper. Some dogs need to learn to tolerate the noise, but once they do, grinding down nails can be fast and easy. Week 2 The eyes of the Boxer puppy may begin to open. This is a slow process in which they will open bigger and for more time each day. Puppies will still be nesting near mom. You should take a bit more time to handle the puppies. This is done to slowly allow the mother to become used to you holding them and for the puppies to begin bonding with you. Week 3 The Boxer puppy's eyes should be completely open. Ears will be open now, as well. The ear canal should be fully formed. This is a bit of a noisy time, as the Boxer puppies will begin to find their "voices" and begin to bark. A 3 week old Boxer will have an urge to leave the whelping box. They will have an instinctual urge to eliminate outside of their resting and sleeping area. One side of the box can be removed, with newspapers placed right outside. A 2nd box can be connected to the 1st whelping box. This will allow the pups to have room to romp around and play. This will also give the Boxer mom time to rest without her puppies jumping all over her. Allowing the puppies to play with each other in a safe and comfortable box is a necessary part of the first socialization they need. Week 4 When does a Boxer puppy begin eating solid food? The weaning process begins just about now, in Week 4. You may also wish to offer the very health option of homemade meals of only fresh ingredients. Start with small amounts. It will be a slow yet steady process for a puppy's digestive system to become used to solid food. Extra heating can be removed. The room should be at a comfortable 72 F .Week 5 You should begin introducing small toys to the puppy. The weight of the puppy should still be checked, this can be done every other day now. Normal weight varies very much but should fall in the range of 2 lbs. Feeding should change slightly, with more puppy food and less water. The dam may want to spend more time away from the puppies. This is where an owner must step in and have much more interaction with the puppies. While still fragile, they should be more than happy to be patted, cuddled and played with. Week 6 A Boxer puppy will be eating quite a bit of puppy dog food than before. Too young to be house trained , this may be a messy week or 2 since bowel movements will become more frequent. While it is too early to expect a puppy to be trained yet, if the weather is warm and day this is a great week to introduce a puppy to the outside world. If you are caring for more than 1 pup, take each one outside separately or 2 at the most. Always keep the Boxer on a leash and beware of any dogs in the area. Allow them to become used to what grass feels like! Allow a pup to enjoy the warmth of the sun and the refreshment of a cool breeze. Week 7 Puppies may not be nursing at all any more. They should be spending quite a bit of time with you and with the other puppies. Going outside should be a daily routine. The dam should be brought outside with the pups; she will use this time to teach them skills. This is the time to be very close to a dog's normal routine of grooming , feeding, exercise and play time. Week 8 This is the week that the puppies will receive their 1st vaccinations. If you will not be keeping the puppies, now is the time to begin the process of finding them a good home. All prospective owners should be evaluated fully. Make home visits if possible. Do not be afraid to ask many questions. If you will be keeping all or some of the puppies, now is the time to fall into normal care for your dog. Housebreaking training can begin as well as falling back into your normal schedule. See Also: Boxer puppy care - Overview of what is needed to take great care of a new Boxer puppy. Boxer dog questions and answers - Round-up of some of the most common issues and care elements with the Boxer breed.

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miniature english bulldog puppies for sale in massachusetts - Do Father dogs know their puppies? By two weeks of age, they should be alert and trying to stand. By three weeks, they should be trying to climb out of their nest or whelping box. By four weeks, all the puppies should be able to walk, run, and play. How long do puppies stay in whelping box? During the first 3 weeks most dams like to be in a warm secluded area, not in the family living area. Pups remain contently in their whelping box for the first 20 days of their life. How do you transition a puppy from a whelping box? By the time the puppies are weeks old, the mother should have an area near the whelping box, but separate from the puppies to allow her time to rest. At about this time, the puppies will start trying to leave the box to explore. They should be well supervised and have safe toys available. Can I move the whelping box? We have found that moving the whelping box or puppy pen set-up on a weekly basis exposes the puppies to new scents and air currents and increases their adaptability and development by about two weeks, especially compared to puppies who are raised in the same corner until they go to their new homes. Is whelping box necessary? As the last week of pregnancy approaches, your female dog will often begin looking for a secure and comfortable place to have her litter of puppies. Before this time comes, it is essential to create a whelping box so she becomes comfortable with it and knows this is the preferred place to have her puppies. Do 4 week old puppies need a heat lamp? Young puppies cannot maintain their own body temperature for a week or two after birth. Heating the area over the whelping box with the aid of a heat lamp is usually all that is necessary. When should I remove the whelping box? I usually take them out at about 3 — 4weeks. This is what I have in My box they just stay there all the time. When can puppies go all night without nursing? A six or seven week old puppy can go through the night without needing to feed as long as they have had enough food during the day. Should newborn puppies sleep with Mom? A newborn puppy is completely helpless and dependent upon her mother. Puppies should remain with the mother and littermates until about age eight to 12 weeks. How do you keep a puppy whelping box clean? Clean the bottom with a chemical-free disinfectant cleanser. Spray a bit of chemical-free disinfectant cleanser on the bottom and sides of your whelping box, and use a paper towel to wipe this up. When can I leave my dog alone with her puppies? Can you leave newborn puppies alone with their mom overnight? Should I leave my dog alone while she is in labor? Should I be present during the whelping? Some dogs like the owner to be with them the whole time they are in labor. Others prefer to have their puppies in seclusion. If your pet chooses to be left alone, try to avoid intruding any more than necessary. What is the best bedding for a whelping box? Many breeders use shredded newspaper to line whelping boxes, but others prefer towels and blankets, wood shavings, or even sand. Should I keep my dog in the whelping box? A whelping box is designed to keep the newborn puppies safe, warm, and comfortable. Whelping means the process where a female dog gives birth to puppies. And a whelping box is a container or box designed to keep the puppies safe and warm. Having a whelping box makes it convenient for the mother to give birth comfortably. Female dogs are very protective of their puppies. Hence the nesting box offers a sense of security. Female dogs need assistance and a safe place to give birth. Hence, a whelping pen would be of great help. If your dog is about to give birth, it would be better to get a box or make it yourself. For a small dog like Pomeranian, you can convert a large card box into a whelping pen. You can put your creativity into the process and make a nesting box for your dog. If your dog is big, she might probably give birth to a large number of puppies. Hence, the size of the box should be large enough to fit the puppies and the mother. Furthermore, you can get the box from a pet store if creativity and DIY are not your forte. Here are some of the factors that you need to consider: The sides of the pen should be high enough that can keep the puppies safe for three weeks. Also, make sure that the mother can move to and fro freely. The size of the pen should be spacious enough for your dog and puppies. It should have enough space where the mother can feed her pups comfortably. In addition, it should allow them to move freely. It will help to keep the pups warm when the mom is not around. These are the factors that you need to consider while getting a nesting box. It helps the mother and the pups in the long run. You would notice the growth within the first few weeks. They can move and stand up over the sides of the whelping pen. By three weeks, they become mobile and able to move towards the edge of the nesting box. However, before it reaches that stage, you should take care of it diligently. Some pups would go astray and get lost. Hence, getting a box with proper height is essential. Sometimes the mother has to go out of the box for a nature call or food. The box offers a sense of security both to the dog owner and the mother. When the puppies are born, they have no control over their body temperature. So, while the mom is out, the box will keep them warm. However, you have to make sure that the bottom of the box is covered with a soft blanket. By three weeks, they will start moving, and some puppies might even get out of the box. So, the real chaos begins when they reach three weeks. It would be best if you were more careful than ever. How to Keep the Nesting Box Clean? Taking care of puppies can be quite tiring. Once the puppies are born safely in the box, it would be better to change the sheet or the beddings. The mother will take care of it. However, from the second to the third week, the real work starts. It will help if you make sure that the box is clean. While cleaning the box, you can keep the pups temporarily in a warm blanket. You need to replace the sheet or newspaper at least twice or thrice per day. However, keeping the box clean prevents the puppies from possible bacterial infections. It also helps to keep the puppies clean. You should see that the nesting box is clean and dry. So, like a responsible dog owner , make sure that the box is clean and warm. Changing the Whelping Box to Other Areas Once the puppies have passed the first week, you place the box in other areas. It will help them to get used to the new smell and sounds. However, make sure that the place is quiet and warm. Some kids would like to hold the pups, which would be too early and maybe dangerous. During the first two weeks, puppies are pretty delicate. So, it would be best to keep far away from children. The first three weeks are a crucial moment for you and the pups. The puppies are in their developing stage, and they need a quiet and calm environment to grow. So, you should make sure that puppies are kept safe and warm. They would be too young to take the regular food and would cause indigestion. But you can keep water for the mother. They get very thirsty while taking care of the puppies. She requires good protein and energy to keep the pups fed through her milk. You can place the food in the water once they can move or walk. However, make sure that the food is easily digestible. Also, puppies tend to eat food without a limit. So, you should give the food moderately. Overeating can cause indigestion and vomiting. Hence, it would help if you were careful not to overfeed them. It offers a sense of security to the mother and the dog owners as well. Having a nesting box helps to keep the puppies from going astray. The first three weeks are crucial for the puppies to grow and develop healthily. Having the right size of the whelping box can help both the puppies and the mother move freely. It allows the mother to breastfeed the puppies comfortably. If your dog is about to give birth, it would be better to arrange a whelping box. It offers safety and assurance to both the mother and puppies. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. A whelping box is an important item to have when puppies are about to be born. You can construct something yourself or buy a specifically designed boxes from pet stores. When can puppies leave the whelping box? Puppies can often leave the whelping box at 3 weeks old. At this age, puppies can move out of the whelping box as they become more mobile. Puppies can stand up and even climb out of the whelping box nest. At this age, puppies start to explore outside of their nest, to find out more about the wide and exciting world around them. Well, I can tell you that a whelping box will help you and the mother cope better with a horde of tiny puppies in their first few weeks. What is a whelping box? Also known as a nest or whelping pen, the whelping box is a container designed to keep the newborn litter in one safe and cozy place. The mother also likes to have a place where she can give birth to her puppies in comfort while having a sense of security. Whelping means to give birth hence the name of the box. It should be placed in a quiet part of the house and set up a couple of weeks before your dog gives birth. This gives her time to get familiar with the box. Image via Pixabay. What can I use as a whelping box? If your dog is a little girl, you could convert a large, sturdy cardboard box into a nesting box. You can make your own if carpentry is your hobby or you could go to the local pet store and buy a whelping box. What to look out for when picking a whelping box You need to make sure you pick a whelping box that takes into consideration the following factors: The sides are high enough to keep the puppies safely contained in their first 3 weeks but low enough for the mother to move in and out freely. The size is big enough to accommodate all the puppies being born. The bottom of the box may come with whelping pads or you can simply line it with newspapers and a soft blanket. Some breeders will use wood shavings to cover the floor of the box. Some whelping boxes come with an extension which is great for more active puppies who are still too young to leave the pen but are moving around quite a bit. Picking the right whelping box goes a long way to keeping mum and pups comfortable and secure. When is the right age for puppies to leave the whelping box? Puppies develop and mature very quickly in their first few weeks. A whelping box is designed to keep the newborn puppies safe, warm, and comfortable. Keeping the puppies in one place and even using a heat lamp will help keep them warm. And, when the mother needs time out, she can leave the box and get some space knowing her pups are all safe in one spot. A whelping box gives you peace of mind your puppies are well-protected, staying warm, and not disappearing once they start crawling. But be ready for the exodus once they reach 3 weeks old and might start walking! How do I keep the whelping box clean? If your dog gave birth to the puppies in the whelping box, you would need to change the bedding once all the puppies are safely delivered. Keep them warm with a blanket. Use a non-chemical cleaning detergent and warm water to wash out the box. Remove any dirty bedding and replace with clean blankets, newspapers or wood shavings. Some breeders do put in a litter box for puppies once they start crawling. This could be the first step to house training your pups. Do regular inspections throughout the day to make sure the whelping box is always dry and clean. Can I move the whelping box to other areas? Once your puppies have passed their first week, you could consider moving them to different areas in the house. But remember, you need to keep them warm so make sure there are no draughts and the puppies are not too intimidated by the new environment. Be careful also with handling newborn puppies when moving them. For the first 3 weeks, the puppies are small, developing, and can be easily disturbed by too much activity around them. Do I need to put food and water in the whelping box? The puppies will be drinking milk from their mother for the first 3 to 4 weeks, before moving onto water. For the first 3 weeks, you could keep a bowl of water in the box for the mother. She will be very thirsty while nurturing her puppies. However, once the puppies start becoming mobile keep both the water and food outside the box. Conclusion Get ready for a whole lot of fun, but also stress. She will take them no doubt but being able to help just a little with whelping boxes, nesting, and more will make it so much easier for you. You might also like…. During that first three weeks we weigh the puppies daily, trim their toenails every days, and put new collars on them every days as their growth is so rapid. The standard puppies are weighed on a regular digital scale and should gain an ounce a day at first and then up to ounces daily, whereas miniature puppies gain in a tenth of an ounce to start with and then an ounce or two a day. Jenny with litter at birth in 4' x 4' whelping box with lots of absorbent padding. Tasy in her "birthing bed" with the first three pups of the TS5 litter "Tasy" moves into her "doll crib" after the puppies are born - shown here at 3 weeks of age. We find it essential that the dam have food and water inside her whelping box the first week, however once she is willing to leave the box for short periods of time it can be set just outside the box, otherwise she will not eat and drink enough to provide all the milk needed for the puppies well being, and if you are not supplementing with goats milk, your puppies can suffer from dehydration. The standard dam has to produce almost two gallons of milk a day by the time a litter of puppies is two weeks of age. That's twice the amount a good dairy goat gives, who is at least double the dam's body weight. We find that goat milk, canned or fresh, is a much better supplement than the commercial formulas, as we have better weight gains and hardly ever have diarrhea in our puppies. If you have more than 8 puppies it is also essential that the dam's tail area and vulva be washed each time she goes out to go, as since there are not enough teats to go around there will always be a puppy trying to latch onto the vulva. The puppies can pick up bacteria and worm eggs, and a one celled organism called coccidiosis in this way which can lead to diarrhea. Mandy with AM3 Litter x Sterling at 1 week old. We practice what we call "giving the puppies an opportunity to learn" as a puppy raising method. We whelp the puppies in one corner of the living room where we have easy access to the box. We have found that moving the whelping box or puppy pen set-up on a weekly basis exposes the puppies to new scents and air currents and increases their adaptability and development by about two weeks, especially compared to puppies who are raised in the same corner until they go to their new homes. This is the first stage of their house breaking. Within hours the smartest puppies of the litter, barely able to crawl, will crawl out to use the paper and then crawl back into the whelping box. Within a few days the entire litter will usually be using the paper. Supplementing the puppies these first weeks gives us a good chance to play with the puppies feet, and get them used to their faces being handled for grooming, however even when we don't supplement we take time daily to handle every puppy and get them used to different textures, smells, and having their feet, faces, ears and tails handled. At three weeks of age when the ears open we start their cereal feeding, and use a soft clap with a "come, babies" command each time they are fed. This leads to the next step in the transition of removing the second box and the addition of a paper lined exercise pen to the whelping box at four weeks of age. At this time we start walking the puppies outside about every two hours from AM to PM. During this time ,the 4th-5th week, we teach them some basic commands - "in", "out", "potty outside", "walk", "watch", and continuing with their "come" command. Once they have understanding of these basic commands we then take them out to an outside play yard, regardless of the weather. It's really important to have this set-up close to an outside door if possible, or to use sections of an exercise pen to make an aisleway directly outdoors. Puppies can be carried outdoors, however their "potty outside" is learned much faster if they walk out the door in tune to the "out" command and the "potty outside" command at the same time. Usually within two days my standard puppies have quit having messes on the paper and are actually asking to go "out" - often at AM at this stage, and I do get up to accommodate them as this speeds their training amazingly, and I have a lot less mess to deal with - and less dirty crates when that time comes along. You can see that I do sleep within hearing of the puppies - usually until those we are continuing training with for their new families are weeks old. TS5 Miniature Litter - 2nd day of cereal feeding and 1st trip outside to the "big" world. We also start the grooming training at 4 weeks of age - starting with a bath with a soft water spray in a utility tub, and using a soft flow warm air dryer and a slicker brush - brushing the coat up the body toward the head, and up the legs toward the back as it dries. We always groom on a table, or the washer or dryer, or a counter - this is essential in getting the puppies used to being groomed on a grooming table and getting over any tendency toward the fear of heights. We cuddle them in our arms on the table to help them feel loved and secure, and to build their confidence level. We try to take pictures at birth, day old individual pictures, then every week thereafter for their new families, and for our albums. We also try to take litter shots as well at the various stages. I find that special touches add a lot of enjoyment, both for us raising the puppies, and for our families who are kept in the "link" of their puppy growing from infancy to toddler weeks. A Tasy x Promise Puppy before his first grooming and after his first grooming. My, oh my, what a difference!! We also start the worming program at four weeks of age - and this is really essential if you occasionally have a puppy that coughs after feeding, or vomits back up milk or cereal. Round worms are the one type of worm that the puppies can get in utero, and they grow as fast as the puppies. A heavy case of worms can often mimic other serious conditions in young puppies. It is also essential to use a low dosage of wormer in cases of heavy infestation, and at times give the puppy a few drops of oil by mouth, and possibly even an enema with a few drops of oil to help pass the worms. We use pyrantel pamoate for our first series of wormings. It is essential to worm every days until no worms are seen - these worms look like spaghetti - and once you see a litter of puppies pass them you never forget them. The wormer works in about six hours and is very effective. We have a computer generated health record that we complete on each puppy, and note all the worming's on it and on the litter weight records as well. Once the worming has been done, and if the teeth are coming in on the entire litter we start adding softened and mashed with potato masher kibble to the puppies cereal mixture - gradually reducing the rice baby cereal. During the next two weeks we gradually start adding cooked rice, cooked oatmeal, scrambled eggs, cottage cheese, ground apple and carrot, and a supplement Green Vibrance which has microbials in it to their soft feed. As soon as the puppies are able to eat dry kibble well and not just play with it we gradually reduce the soft feedings to AM and PM. The puppies often prefer dry kibble during times of heavy teething, however dry kibble no matter how well promoted does not meet all of their nutritional needs. Also the more organically chemical, steroid, and low grade antibiotic free a puppy can be fed, the better for its health and longevity. We keep our puppies on microbials their whole life as this keeps their intestinal system in optimal health - they absorb more nutrients, they produce less fecal material, they are less prone to other bacterial infections, they don't have smelly gas, they are less prone to bloat typical in a number of large breeds , they have better pigmentation as a result of absorbing more nutrients. We have also found that since taking this approach to diet that puppy and show coats on adults are more luxurious. As you can see their fourth week involves a lot of changes for the puppies. At six weeks of age we start the weaning process - although most "mothers" have already started it. A poodle "mom" is the most devoted creature ever the first week or two, but after that usually reclaims part of her own life to be with her human family. She will return to the whelping box every few hours to take care of her puppies needs, but other than that spends her time on a blanket or pad outside the box. Using a higher powered water spray, a higher powered table dryer, and if the coat is still thin enough a palm pro clipper again to clip the face, feet, tummy and tail. At this time Mishelle also adds standing the puppy properly on the table and does the first scissoring around the tail head and up the rump - as much to get the puppy used to the sound and feel of the scissors as because there is that much coat to scissor off. This is also when we try to take the first pictures of the puppies in a nice stance to send to everyone. This also helps to train the puppy for standing on the table which benefits when we do the conformation evaluations at 8 weeks of age. Puppies fearful on the table are very difficult to assess. This is also essential for miniature puppies that are going to be shown. It's very sad when a miniature is put on a table in the show ring for the judges inspection, and is fearful. Just minutes a day on a table, being encouraged to stand and be touched, can make a remarkable difference in just a week. A Maddy x Calvin puppy at 6 weeks of age after her 2nd grooming Six weeks is also when we remove the whelping box, as the mother now just gets in with the puppies about 4 times a day and either sits or stands to nurse them. She also starts to regurgitate her feedings for the puppies at this stage. The teeth are starting to come all the way in at this time, and the puppies will start sparring, and at times will really yelp. They learn at this stage not to bite each other too hard, and this is the first step to them learning not to bite humans too hard. We often have families who want to get their poodle puppies at this age, especially if they are going to training in agility. We do not allow any puppies to go to their new homes until they are weeks of age, as we feel that they need the "sibling rivalry" stage to learn aggressive and defensive behavior - which is learned by their interplay with each other. Many of our poodles go to homes with runners, and I can't tell you how many times they have had to defend their owners from aggressive dogs of other breeds, and always successfully. You never know when your poodle may have to come to your defense, and the maneuvers they learn as puppies at this age are the foundation for their defensive techniques, increase their alertness, and the speed of their thinking and their reactivity time. I love watching the puppies develop their skills during playtime at this stage. It is their transition from infancy to toddlers. It is also at six weeks that we remove the whelping box replacing it with two small crates without the gates on. Our favorite crates are the Furrari's, as they just snap together, and the gates can be opened from either side and simply lifted off for this stage of training. The first night all the puppies will crowd into one small crate - then I will hear them in the middle of the night groaning and grumbling, and in the morning the puppies will be divided between the two crates. That day we add a third small crate, and go through the same process - which we repeat until there are two puppies per crate. We never put the gates on at this stage, just allow the puppies the freedom to sleep in or out of the crates, and to play with them. We estimate that a poodle puppy develops 21 years in it's first year. From infancy to toddler, to preschool, to kindergarten, to pre-adolescent, to adolescent, to pre-teen, to teenager, to post teen, and early twenties. Their intelligence is equivalent to that of many humans, and the learning of human vocabulary in a standard poodle is amazing. They are a joy to work with and to train, many almost training themselves. At this point we start giving the puppies rawhide chew bones to help with their teeth cutting, the cardboard rolls from toilet paper, paper towels, tape rolls, and small boxes that they can pack around, tear up and destroy. Much like a toddler builds a stack of bricks and then knocks it down destructive stage so also does a puppy need to go through this stage. So we give them things that don't cost anything, that are light weight, and the right size around for a puppy jaw to pick up. They love it. We also start giving the puppies soft and hard toys to play with, and also try to observe which puppies in the litter are water lovers - they play in the water and empty the container almost as fast as we can fill it. We often get asked for puppies that like water by families that boat, or live on rivers or lakes, or on house boats. We start watching closely for the different types of personalities that the puppies have, how they relate to each other, to new situations, to new people, to other animals they come in contact with. Those that are more adventuresome, more curious, more courageous, etc. We are also watching for activity levels and how they move. It is also at weeks that we take the puppies to the back yard to play - as they are then big enough to be taught to go up and down steps. We have closed back steps, and open backed steps like condos and the steps at the air cargo depots for them to learn on. This can be quite a challenge to some, and we usually have to delay this training with the miniatures for a couple of more weeks when they are a bit bigger. They are so proud of themselves when they achieve success in going up and down the steps, even though it is just three steps - and will run up and down just for the joy of it. In the back yard they also learn to drink from an automatic waterer, so that they don't fear the hissing sound as it refills. Having nice clean feet, faces, and tail head and rump helps us to evaluate the puppies much better, and they will score better when all can be seen and evaluated. We do not give the puppies any treats prior to testing, nor do we do any actual crate training in closed crates. At this age the puppies get their first bath in the grooming tub with a harder spray of water instead of in the utility tub. The Force dryer is used for the first time, and the Andis or Oster clippers. This is also the clipping that helps us to determine the color that the puppies might end up as - blues and silvers are born black, silver beige and cafe-au-lait can be born very dark brown, light apricots that are going to cream out - we study the nose, feet, heels, and under the tail and neck for signs of color change. Tasy x Promise Pup - Black - at 8 weeks! A Mandy x Sterling Pup - Silver - at 8 weeks. Silvers and blues are born black and change gradually - starting with the muzzle and feet We try to schedule temperament testing 16 tests and conformation evaluations a three page form using AKC breed requirements, International breed requirements, and Puppy Puzzle testing at 8 weeks minus or plus three days, as this is the most accurate time for assessing conformation before the puppy starts its rapid growth spurts. This is at times a little early for temperament testing, however as so many families want their puppies at 8 weeks of age, it is necessary to do this before the litter starts to go to new homes. Often our entire litters are reserved before they are even born, or at least by the time they are 6 weeks of age, and this helps us to match puppies and their capabilities and personalities and temperament to the homes they are going into, especially the puppies that are shipped across the United States. This also means asking our prospective families for lots of details about their home style, their activities, other pets or animals in or around their homes, and what they want to do with their puppy as an adult. We also help families at this point to decide the best age of puppy to suit their lifestyle, as many families in todays age have difficulty getting the time those first weeks to house train a young puppy. The weekly cost covers food, treats, training, vaccinations and wormings. Temperament testing is beneficial, although there are those that disagree. It is done in a strange place by a strange person. It's purpose is to note the natural instincts and adaptability of the young puppies, and our families have found our assessments to be pretty accurate as their puppies have developed. The disadvantage of testing at 8 weeks versus 12 weeks, is that puppies can be conceived over a ten day period. The gestation period is days, with all of the body development being in the first 50 days, and the weight gain being in the last days. If the bitch whelps according to the first puppy conceived, then the last puppy or puppies conceived may not have had much weight gain - however due to genetics it will not always be the smallest puppies. When we do temperament testing we also try to be aware of which puppies opened eyes first and last, which had teeth coming in first and last - as these can be indicative of which puppies in the litter are the oldest and the youngest - as the psychological development can also be different, with the thinking processes of the youngest not being quite as developed as the thinking processes of the gestationally oldest puppies. In temperament testing we are looking at social skills, inanimate object retrieving instincts, sensitivity testing, chase response, bird retrieving instincts, perseverance and motivation. These help to determine which puppies might be best suited as companions, service and therapy candidates, agility and obedience prospects, those with "bird" instincts, and very important today those with good search and rescue and tracking instincts. Conformation evaluations are where we literally take a puppies body structure apart and put it back together again - all on paper. We are looking for the few puppies in a litter that are the most correct by breed specifications in bone structure. As companions for runners, horse back riders, hikers, bikers, etc. Most of our standard puppies, after 10 years of breeding are quite structurally correct - however we try to match structural correctness, temperament and personality to the needs of a family. To be a pick of the litter puppy it must score high in all three areas. At times a structurally correct puppy may not have the best temperament for competitive events, and a senior family doesn't need a puppy with a high working drive. When we complete the testing we vaccinate each of the puppies and tattoo them with their individual identification number - that designates their dam, her litter number, and the number of puppy within the litter - in their left ear. This tattoo must be read and entered in the medical records of the puppy by the families veterinarian at the time of the "well puppy check" within 10 days of receiving the puppy for our 2 year from date of birth guarantee to go into effect. As soon as the testing is completed we start crate training the puppies. The first night two puppies are put into a crate with the gate on, and given 3 small treats. They are cuddled before being put into the crate, and we use the "in" command which they are used to. When they are taken out in the morning they are hugged and cuddled again, and given their "go potty outside" command as we take them "out" the front door. The second night they are crated individually, and are also crated during the day for short periods of time, to get them used to taking "naps" in their crates. They are always given three tiny biscuits when we want them in their crates, and usually within three days they compete to see who can get in the crates first and turn around for their treats. Usually at this age the puppies will crate from approximately PM to about AM without having accidents in their crates, however I do get up in the middle of the night and let them out if someone gets really fussy. In hot summer weather they at times need out during the night to get a drink just as much as they need out to go potty. We always make their last soft feeding of the day by PM, so that they have plenty of time to evacuate before bedtime. Remember poodle puppies are very smart, and if they get me up several nights in a row - I watch very carefully to see if they really needed to go - and if not they have just decided to get me out of bed for some extra attention and playtime - remember the pre-adolescent who wants another drink of water, etc. They will test their new families in the same way, and if they win they are ruling the family instead of the family ruling them. At this point the puppies are ready to go to their new homes to families living locally, or those driving from other states to get their puppies. If they are flying we keep them for two more weeks - and ship when they are approximately 10 - 12 weeks old. This allows us to start travel training and leash training of the puppies, and allow them to develop better holding capacity for daytime crating before shipping. Also it gives us time to receive family t-shirts worn until sweaty and placed in ziploc bags to give to the puppies in their crates three days before shipping. Having items of clothing which we tie into knots for a pillow or toy allows the puppy to get used to it's new families scents, and helps it to adapt and bond much more quickly. It also gives us time to ship their puppy pack to them, before the puppy is shipped. We follow up on our puppies for years, and encourage our families to keep in touch with us and contact us with any questions regarding nutrition, training problems or needs. We also board our own puppies back, which is wonderful as then we get to assess their development and personalities as adults. We have families now who purposefully plan their vacations for the Oregon Coast just so they can leave their much loved poodles with us - they come from as far away as Montana, Idaho, north eastern Washington, California, Utah, and of course the closer regions of Oregon and Washington. Unless we are expecting a litter imminently they get to come back and live in the house with us, and always enjoy playing with so many other poodles in our huge back yard, and side yard play areas. We also continue any training that is in progress on the younger puppies. A Mandy boy at 15 weeks! A Lucy daughter at 1 year - sent by her family in Idaho Many of our families also return with their puppies to take the one-on-one grooming classes with us - with Mishelle now being the primary instructor. Many of our families are now doing all of their own grooming, and even if they aren't have found the class very beneficial as they have learned what to expect from a good groomer. Many have returned for second and even third classes to learn advanced scissoring techniques, and several are now learning show grooming and handling from us as well. It's biblical that the older are to teach the younger - and we feel very strongly about this after not finding anyone willing to assist us when we first started out. We want those who have a true desire to become breeders of the poodles to start in the right way, learning to do the proper testing and research, taking part in genetic research projects, learn to groom their poodles properly, and to breed properly, caring for their whelping bitches and puppies correctly. Mishelle should have been in the picture with "Eve" but was in the Show Ring with her instead. She groomed 14 standards and 2 miniatures for this show. The poodle is a wonderful and unique breed - sharing life with it's family. Stages of Puppy Development Birth to 3 weeks The first 20 days of a pups life it is not capable of much learning. The mental capacity is about nil. The pup will react when it is in need of food, sleep, warmth and its mother. During the first 3 weeks it is VERY important to look after the dam as well. She will in turn, look after the puppies. Once or twice a day the puppies should be handled by a human and they should be weighed daily. During the first 3 weeks most dams like to be in a warm secluded area, not in the family living area. Pups remain contently in their whelping box for the first 20 days of their life. Newborn puppies sleep most of the day away. No matter what the breed, this is the time when the dormant senses wake up. From day 21 to 28 puppies are in need of their mom more than any other time as their brains and nervous systems begin to develop and they become aware of their surroundings. As mom jumps out of the box, they suddenly watch her wondering where she went. Pups may start climbing out of the whelping box at this age, so it is time to expand their home. At this stage we add a small potty area beside the whelp box. If a puppy were to loose his mom at this stage it would greatly affect his emotional wellbeing. Emotional growth is just blossoming as the puppy realizes it is alive. It is also at this age that characteristics can develop like shyness and fear. Any negative characteristics that develop at this stage in life are often permanent personality traits. The puppies sleep 20 or more hours a day. They will not go far, but they will begin to explore. At this time we expand their area to add a play and eating area in the daytime. This is the time to move them out to the kitchen and family room area, where life is happening in the home. This is not the age to be in the back bedroom, garage or barn. During this time, a puppy will learn to respond to voices, sounds and recognize different people. The puppies in their group will establish a 'pecking order', some will want to lead and some will want to follow. The dominant ones will eat first and the omega ones will wait. The dominant ones can become bullies and hog all the toys. This is an important stage to watch to learn the temperaments of each puppy and should be used for placing puppies into the proper homes. Some scientific studies prove that if there is a bully in a litter that is making others cower and be shy it can set in traits that are very hard to turn around, but it is also important to leave puppies in a social group long enough to be adventurous and for the puppy to acquire some social competitive skills. On the same note, a puppy should never be allowed to get too pushy. While shyer puppies have to learn to handle themselves in social groups, a dominant puppy needs to learn it is not acceptable to be a bully. Different breeds need to be separated at different ages. Often if the bully is adopted out first the remaining puppies will loose some of their shyness. Puppies at this age sleep 18 to 20 hours a day. By 7 weeks, a pup is considered emotionally developed and ready to learn, but the pup does not possess an adult brain yet. At 7 weeks old the breeder of the pups can start crate training for an hour or two a day with 2 pups in a crate. This helps with separation anxiety. By 8 weeks of age a puppy should be able to go in a crate alone for a nap, and it is almost ready for its new home. A puppy should never be taken away from it's mother before weeks of age. The mother dog teaches the puppies in the litter manners, respect, social skills, and proper etiquette, along with many other valuable lessons. When a puppy misses this stage it can cause the pup to have future behavior issues as most humans do not understand natural dog behavior enough to teach the pup these things. What a puppy learns now will be retained and become part of who the dog becomes and his personality. Most dams stop caring for their pups by 7 weeks, as they have teeth and she pushes them away. If a pup is left with the dam during this period it's emotional development can be altered, as it remains dependent on her. The same can happen if littermates are placed together. They rely on each other instead of the new owner and they often do not find adequate security in their mom or littermate. They need their new owner to take over the role and it is important that the humans understand natural dog behavior in order to fulfill the puppies instincts and needs. First shots should be done at 7. When a puppy stays with his litter after 8 to 9 weeks of age without adequate human contact it doesn't adjust as well to a human social life. The optimum time to take a new puppy is from 8 to 9 weeks of age. It is always best to have a pup do his learning from his new owner and in his new home. Puppies are often adopted out at 8, 9, 10 or 11 weeks. Older puppies can do just fine if the breeder has spent a lot of time socializing them away from their littermates. Ideally 9 weeks seems to be the perfect age for most breeds to go to new homes. What the dog learns from 8 to 12 weeks will be with him forever. At this time the puppy must be introduced to other people and go for walks on the pavement street avoiding dirt or grass until it has had its 2nd shots. If the first shots are done at 8 weeks and second are done at 12 weeks it is a good idea to enroll in puppy kindergarten that starts right at 12 weeks. At this age on up to several months old, puppies will sleep 16 to 20 hours a day, give or take depending on the puppies energy level and the activity around them. Sleeping more during rapid growth sprurts. The sleep is broken up between night time sleep and naps during the day. It is common for a puppy to play hard, running around with bounds of energy, then suddenly crashing into a deep sleep. It is important to keep in mind that all puppies by this time have formed a general personality. Some are natural born leaders, some are middle of the road and could go either way and some are very submissive and really prefer not to lead anything. All puppies have an instinct to have a leader who can provide structure, because in their minds without it the pack cannot survive. Therefore even the most naturally born submissive dog may feel the need to take over as an alpha should they feel everyone else around them is too weak to care for the pack. These dogs are often very stressed out about their role because they really do not want it, but feel the need to lead just the same. After all, to them it's a matter of life or death. One of the biggest questions new owners call about is that the pup is an angel for the first couple weeks and then it starts to nip in an attempt to control things around it. This happens when a puppy does not see the humans as natural born leaders to which it can respect and it attempts to get the pack in order. If this happens it does not necessarily mean you got a bad puppy, but often means you are not being a good canine owner. Owners must be calm but firm and follow through. Set the rules of the home and stick to them. Teach basic obedience and how to heel on a leash. Do not let the puppy bolt out the door. Stay calm and confident and remember that dogs can feel your emotions. If you have emotional problems your dog knows and will see you as a weak being. Always remember to a dog anger is a weakness, so take a deep breath and control yourself. Should the puppy feel it is stronger minded than the humans it will not want to be at the bottom. Puppy owners should be prepared that the pup may attempt to establish itself as the dominant one in the family. This is where you need to understand a dog's natural instincts and learn their language so you can read them. It may see whether it can physically strike out at his owner like some teens and could nip or growl. Should this happen be prepared to stop the behavior immediately. It is kind of like kids wanting dessert before dinner or to stay up later. You just have to say NO. Each dog is different, just as kids are, therefore you need to figure out what works for you and your situation. If it is being aggressive one method is to pin it on its back and hold him there with a firm NO. If a pup is allowed to get away with bad behavior it will lose respect for the owner and learn that rebelling gets him his own way. The key is for the humans to be calm, confident and firm all at the same time. If you find yourself yelling or angry you as the human are out of control and need to learn how to portray yourself as someone your dog can look up to and respect. Dogs do not listen to unstable humans and anything but calm, confident and firm, to them is unstable. There should be zero tolerance for aggressiveness. Heaps of love and understanding will not stop bad behavior. A pup must be shown fast and firmly that you are the one in charge. If you have a good breeder who understands the dog even returning him for a few days can help as the breeder gets the dog back under control and you assess your own behavior and understanding of this animal you are trying to live with. Sending a dog away to be trained without training yourself never works, as the way your dog is acting often has more to do with the humans it is living with. This goes for any dog of any age. Learn how to groom your dog. Teach it to lie still for grooming and nail trimming. If you are having trouble call the breeder or a behaviorist for help. It is best to have earned a dog's respect and trust in regards to grooming by 16 weeks of age. A pups natural instinct will be to periodically try to test the order in the pack. Especially if there are children. If the owner is submissive, quiet and week, thus making the dog feel the need to lead the home, its respect for its owner will weaken and the owner will become inferior in the dogs eyes. In these cases the owner is destined to be owned by the dog and you will surely see behavior problems emerge. A puppy should have a good start on crate training when it leaves a breeder's home. Help your puppy feel secure by giving it its own bed and crate in a place where it can be alone when it needs some quiet time. It should be crated for one or two naps per day, especially when making and eating dinner and crated at night. It should not ever have the run of the house till after 6 months of age or housebreaking and training can become very difficult. A puppy should start formal obedience by 6 months of age, preferably sooner. Remember when you choose to adopt a dog you are choosing to take an animal into your home. The animal is not a human baby and humans are not born with canine instincts. Take some time to learn about the canine and be prepared to change your way of life to accommodate the new member of the family. The puppies have arrived. They have been weighed and identified; they have nursed and are now sleeping quietly except for the normal twitching. Now what? Your job is not over yet, in fact, it's really just beginning. Nutrition and Feeding The mother will be ready for some food and water. Bring the dishes to the whelping box, as she will not want to leave the newborn puppies. Do not leave the dishes on the floor in the whelping box, as the puppies could crawl into them. Hang the dishes from the side of the whelping box or offer her food and water at least every hours to start. She should be taken outside on a frequent and regular basis to relieve herself. Within days, the mother's appetite will dramatically increase to times her pre-pregnancy intake. She will need a near constant supply of a high quality puppy food do NOT use large breed puppy formulas, which are generally lower in protein, fat, and minerals and water to maintain her weight and health while feeding the puppies. She should not look gaunt or thin if her weight is maintained. Ideally, she should weigh the same at the time of weaning, as she did when she was bred. A healthy puppy is firm, plump, and vigorous. Puppies should nurse every 2 hours or so. If they nurse until their stomachs appear round and they sleep quietly, they are eating enough. If they are crying and moving a lot, they are not eating enough. They may be swallowing air, which makes the stomach appear larger. As they become weaker, they will lay still and not cry. Their weight should double in the first days. Before, during, and after nursing, the mother will lick the stomach and perineal area to stimulate urination and defecation. She will continue to do this for weeks. Weigh the puppy daily for the first 2 weeks, then weigh at least weekly. A food scale typically works well for weighing the puppies. Failure to gain weight is often the first sign of illness in puppies. At about 3 weeks of age, the puppies will begin to imitate the mother's eating and drinking. A secure shallow water dish should now be available at least part of the day. Prepare the puppy mush by placing 2 cups of high quality dry puppy food in a blender with .This should be blended until the consistency of human infant cereal. This feeds puppies of a medium-sized breed. The puppies should receive meals a day of this to start. Once the puppies have checked it out, walked in it, and have eaten some, the mother can be allowed to finish it and clean the puppies off. Each week, increase the amount of food, decrease the amount of the milk replacer and water that is added and the time of blending, so by 7 weeks of age, the puppies are eating dry food. Once they are on dry food, it may be left in with the puppies when the mother is out of the box or the meal times can continue. As the puppies eat more solid food, the mother may be let away from the puppies for an ever longer period of time. If the weaning is not rushed, she will naturally start decreasing milk production, as the puppies increase their intake of solid food. As the puppies begin eating the puppy mush at 4 weeks of age, start changing the mother's diet back to adult food to also help her decrease milk production. Keep increasing the adult food and decreasing the puppy food until by the 7th week postpartum she is eating only adult food. Hopefully she has been fed well during pregnancy and lactation so she weighs the same at weaning as she did before pregnancy. Want to learn how to save on your dog's veterinary care? Click here Sanitation and Housebreaking During and after whelping, the mother should be allowed to go outside to urinate and defecate. Take her out on a leash bring a flashlight if it is dark , and watch her closely, as she could have another puppy. The whelping box needs to be changed at least once a day at this stage, and times a day as the puppies begin eating solids and the mother is not cleaning up after them. A large heavy paper may be laid on the bottom, several layers of newspaper over that, and a tightly stretched blanket over the newspaper. The blanket should be large enough to fit under all 4 sides of the box. If the box was made so the sides set into the floor, the sides are picked up, the blanket stretched, and the sides set down to hold the blanket in place. Puppies can become lost under blankets or under wrinkles in blankets. When cleaning, check the consistency and color of the puppy stool. It should be brown and formed, but not overly firm. Any deviations and the veterinarian should be contacted. To facilitate housebreaking, the puppies should be given definite feeding, playing, sleeping, and elimination areas. Once the puppies are mobile, they will use one area for elimination. Cover this area with a layer of newspapers with cedar or pine shavings on top. The new owners then place a small amount of cedar or pine shavings in the preferred location of their yard to aid in housebreaking. Keep the elimination area clean and dry. Puppies head toward the heat source to nurse so do not have the heat source warmer than the mother. Hanging a household thermometer on the inside of the whelping box will help you know the temperature in the box. Puppies typically lay side by side or on top of each other to share warmth. If the puppies are scattered throughout the whelping box and away from the heat lamp, the temperature is too warm. If they are all piled on top of each other, it may be too cold. Puppies need the extra heat, as they are unable to regulate their body temperature until several weeks old. Health of the Mother Each mammary gland and nipple should be checked at least once a day for redness, hardness, discharge, or streaking color. If mastitis develops, the veterinarian should be notified immediately. If caught early, milking out the affected gland and applying hot compresses will help prevent a spread of the problem. Sometimes, antibiotics are necessary. If she gets multiple glands with mastitis, the puppies will need to be bottle fed. The puppies' nails should be trimmed weekly starting within days of birth. This will help prevent some of the scratches on the mother's mammary glands. The deciduous teeth start coming in around day .Check the mammary glands of the mother daily for bite marks. The mother will have a bloody discharge from her vulva which may be quite heavy for several days. It should decrease in amount and become darker and be almost gone within weeks. The mother's hair may have become very thick and luxurious during the pregnancy. Around the time of weaning, the mother starts to shed. This extreme loss of hair coat is natural and it should be back to normal in about another months. This shedding is more extreme than a normal shed cycle and some mothers become quite bald. This is often called 'blowing a coat. Click here Puppy Healthcare Puppies who are not thriving should be examined as soon as possible by a veterinarian to check for birth defects. Some defects, such as a cleft palate are not compatible with life. These puppies should be humanely euthanized. Dewclaws are removed and tails docked at days of age. Make an appointment with your veterinarian for these procedures to be done. Check your breed's standard, as some breeds need to have dewclaws left intact in order to show. Tail length changes, so again, the current breed standard should be consulted. When the puppies are at the clinic and having these procedures done, the mother should be taken for a walk around the block until the puppies are done. She should not be close enough to the clinic to hear the puppies crying. Once they are put back with the mother, the puppies normally nurse and then sleep. Vaccinations are started at weeks of age. Some breeders give a parvo virus vaccine at 5 weeks of age, if the puppies are at a high-risk. Ask your veterinarian if your puppies should be vaccinated early for parvo virus. They recommend puppy deworming for roundworms and hookworms start at 2 weeks of age and be repeated at 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. Thereafter, use a heart worm preventive medication that is also effective against hookworms and roundworms. Foster and Smith suggest that owners of newly acquired puppies obtain the deworming history of their new pup and contact their veterinarian to determine if additional deworming is needed. The mother should be dewormed at the same time as the puppies. A health check done by a veterinarian at weeks of age before the puppies head for new homes should include checks for heart murmurs, hernias, cryptorchidism, demodectic mange, other parasites, eye disorders, etc. Normal puppy development The umbilical cord normally falls off within days of birth. Infections of the umbilicus are rare in clean, well-managed kennels. Puppies normally twitch and jerk while sleeping. This helps with the development of their nerves and muscles. The puppies crawl well by days, walk at 16 days, and have a normal gait at 21 days. They need to be on footing that offers traction. By 4 weeks of age, the puppies follow each other and carry toys in their mouths. They will play-fight with each other and learn how to inhibit their bites. If a puppy bites a littermate too hard, the littermate will yelp and stop playing with him. If the puppy is allowed to bite humans, he will not learn to inhibit his bite. It may be cute as a 7-week old, but it will not be as a 7-year old. Puppies are born without teeth. The deciduous baby teeth start to erupt at weeks of age. All of the deciduous teeth are usually present by 8 weeks of age. The puppies' eyes will open around days of age. The retina matures around 21 days of age. Puppies should see clearly by 4 weeks of age. Do not pry open the lids for any reason, as the immature eye is not yet ready to handle light. If the eyes appear swollen before they open, take the puppy to a veterinarian immediately as an eye infection may be present that needs to be treated to prevent loss of vision. Some puppies will take a day to open the eyes while others will take days. The eyes will have a bluish color to them at first and then change to their adult color over time. If the eyes appear white or solid blue, take the puppy to the veterinarian right away. The ears open at days of age. They should hear clearly by 4 weeks of age. Deafness may not be noticeable while the puppies are together and first noticed when the puppy is in her new home. Interactions Between the Mother and Puppies By the time the puppies are weeks old, the mother should have an area near the whelping box, but separate from the puppies to allow her time to rest. At about this time, the puppies will start trying to leave the box to explore. They should be well supervised and have safe toys available. The box at this point should be big enough to be divided between eating, sleeping, playing, and eliminating rooms. At this stage, a crate with the door removed and lined with sheepskin or a dog bed can be given to the puppies for sleeping quarters and to familiarize them with crates. Puppy Socialization Early socialization of the puppies will help them become confident and develop fewer behavior problems. The puppies should be exposed to everything possible from metal food dishes dropping, to vacuums, garage doors opening and closing, thunderstorms, sirens, garbage trucks going past, cats, and other pets, etc. Do not try to keep the area quiet during the day. The puppies need to get used to normal household noises. Children should be allowed to play outside the whelping box supervised so they do not enter the box or drop toys in , as children behave differently than adults. Everything the puppy is exposed to now, will help her become a well-socialized, unafraid adult. The puppies should be handled several times a day. They can be picked up, their teeth looked at, ears checked, toes played with nails will need a weekly trimming , and have anything that may be done as an adult started slowly now. Play helps to develop the puppy's mind, as he needs to find solutions to problems he encounters. If the puppies are not in new homes by 10 weeks of age, they should be separated from each other for a large part of the day and given one-on-one time with humans. They can have play times during the day, but they should eat, sleep, and be handled separately. Being in a kennel group situation beyond weeks of age decreases trainability. Ready to start saving money on pet wellness care? Then take a look at Mint Wellness, the pet wellness plan that provides fast reimbursement on routine pet care. Save on vaccinations, wellness exams, preventatives, dental, and more!

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miniature english bulldog puppies for sale in massachusetts - They are eager and athletic. They are also very easy to train, which makes them a great family dog. But they do require a lot of grooming. Many poodle owners believe that because this breed is mostly low shedding, it is also low maintenance. But this could not be further from the truth. The truth is that poodles do require daily grooming. This includes brushing and combing everyday or at least 3 times a week. Creating a grooming routine with your poodle is vital to keeping their fluffy coat mat-free! Matting is the number one grooming problem that poodle owners encounter. Matted fur does not only look bad, but it is very painful for poodles. If not removed, it can also cause other health issues including discomfort, skin disorder, flea infestation, mites, worms, and other parasites. And severe matting usually leads to a shavedown, right to the skin. Shaving a fluffy poodle is actually very frustrating for an owner because they may not know what they are doing wrong. These are the top three tools that will make grooming so much easier. A High Quality Slicker Brush The slicker brush is the number one dog brush recommended by grooming professionals for poodles. It is actually the type of brush you want to start with when grooming your dog because it will help break up any knots and prevent matting. It is perfect for poodle coat maintenance at home. It is always important to keep the bristles of a slicker brush from bending or getting damaged as this can cause skin irritation, pain, and discomfort. What we love about this brush is that you can brush your poodle, and then just click and clean the brush. The bristles retract when you click so they are kept from being damaged. And your brush can be stored and ready for your next brushing session. The poodle slicker brush is great at working through dense and thick coats because of its larger than standard pins. This slicker brush is gentle and smoothly works its way through your poodle's coat. It is one of the best slicker brushes on the market for poodle owners because it makes coat maintenance much easier. It is great at removing tangles and mats. It's also perfect for achieving that fluffly look effortlessly. The Poodle slicker brush is extremely lightweight, the extra-long handle is ergonomic, and it is very comfortable and effective. A Dematting Tool A double-sided dematting tool is perfect for grooming your poodle when matting is the problem as it is specifically designed to remove mats. The dematting tool can come in very handy before having to take your pup to the groomer for a shavedown. This tool has a 9-rounded-teeth side specifically designed for dematting purposes. We love recommending the Freshly Bailey dematting brush because it has proven to be effective at removing mats while creating a positive grooming experience. The brush is terrific for getting deep into the dog's coat and for working through the stubborn tangles. A Metal Comb A metal comb should be used after you have brushed your poodle thoroughly with the slicker brush. The end result should be the ability to get the comb from the root to the tip of the hair. We like the Dual-length Dog Metal Comb. It has long and short stainless steel teeth to quickly and painlessly remove any remaining tangles or knots. And the anti-slip handle protects your dog from any slippery accidents. The hammock is also a great tool for grooming your poodle's face, legs, and tail. It really does save tons of time and frustration. If you bathe your dog, make sure you brush your dog's hair before the actual bath and use a high quality shampoo and conditioner. We love the 5-in-1 Pet Shampoo , it is great for poodle hair. If you bathe your dog's matted hair without detangling it, it will just get worse! Wait for the fur to dry after the bath, and then brush it again. Do not brush a wet coat. Do not just brush the top of the coat as this does not really do anything to prevent matting. Start at the bottom of the coat, grab a handful of hair, and brush a line of fur away. You should be able to see the skin. As you go, brush the hair down making sure that with each line you get right to the skin. If you have the self-cleaning slicker brush, just click, clean, and store when finished. Otherwise, make sure the bristles are thoroughly cleaned. If the comb gets stuck in any particular section, go back and brush out the tangle with the slicker brush. Use the 9-rounded-teeth side. Hold the matted fur closest to the skin with your fingers before brushing or pulling at the mat. Start at the end of the mat and work your way up. Always do small strokes when combing through a mat. The 10 Best Brushes for Poodles — Reviewed: 1. Hertzko is here to tell you that this is not the case. Made with a flexible head, this brush for Poodles is changing the game. The double-sided head serves several purposes, all of which result in your Poodle looking their best. Whether it be detangling, massaging, or removing loose hair and dirt, this brush serves not only as a styling device but also a cleaning agent. The lack of rigidity mean that it easily contours to the body of your pet. The bent bristles take this design idea one step further by getting deep into the fur, grooming and untangling the undercoat, making the top coat look that much more healthy. This is all done with the comfort of the animal in mind, as the bristles are bent to make sure that there is no scratching or poking. Your dog will also appreciate the massaging qualities of this brush. Nothing beats relaxing while updating your look, right? This brush is also designed to promote good blood flow, effectively making it both stylish and healthy. Some people seem to have issues with this brush in that it requires a great deal of patience. You have to slowly brush through the hair — and your pet will be thankful for you doing so. You have a full 30 days to send it back. Pin Brush Many owners opt for the pin brush due to being one of the best for Poodles. They are pretty gentle while keeping coats nice and glossy. The pin brush is mainly a topcoat brush and is one of the most common brushes for this bread. The wire pin brush also is excellent for static or Poodles with curly hair. It contains lengths for all coats with wider gaps. Since the bristles have a wider opening, the hair follicles are protected. Therefore, the overall damage is minor. The bristles also distribute oils evenly. The rubber bristles wear down over time as well. Despite the cons, there are a lot of positive qualities to the pin brush. Ready to Adopt Puppyspot Poodle Adoption 5. They have placed over , puppies into homes in the US! The double sided brush ensures the right comb for any job regardless of if the pet has short, medium or long hair Comfortable grooming. The rounded ends on the pin brush make it easy and comfortable for dogs and cats while the non-slip handle conforms to hand no matter how it is held Easy fast grooming. Easily knock off loose hair and dirt with the bristle side, get a beautiful, groomed coat for dogs or cats with the pin brush side Get rid of mats and loose hairs. Groom the undercoat without scratching the pet's skin with soft yet firm nylon bristles while the rounded pins designed to penetrate deep into the coat Brushing has never been simpler. A double-sided brush will meet all your grooming needs and helps with finishing and combing. All these people can't be wrong about this comfortable and safe brush We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you. The pin side is convenient for longer coats, while the brush side is excellent for final touches and sensitive skin. This brush includes soft pins and rounded ends and provides flexibility. While the brush is for all coat lengths, it quickly takes off dirt and loose hair and provides a lifetime guarantee. A white Poodle puppy with a squishy plush toy in his mouth 2. Slicker Brush A slicker brush is a must have for Poodles due to the flat and fine bristles. In addition, slicker brushes work well with curlier coats. Now, get knots out quickly without the hassle. Slicker brushes are also extremely easy to use for owners too. Scratching and discomfort are also possible with the slicker brush. Like all brushes, they contain unique purposes. Next, I will break down one of the best slicker brushes. With the self-cleaning slicker brush, there are a lot of pros, and it is excellent for thicker coats. We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you. All you have to do is press a button to release the hair from the dog brush. The Hertzko removes tangles with ease and is gentle enough for your Poodle. There are also cons to consider, including the price. Another downside is that you have to hold down the button when brushing your Poodle. If not, the bristles retract. Brushing your Poodle every day is now easier than ever and is an excellent investment for your buck! Portrait of little parti Poodle dog with curly fur sitting at the park with her owner 3. Dematting Comb As I said before, matting is a significant issue for Poodles which is also a dangerous health hazard when your dog chews and scratches the area. Luckily, there are special de-matting brushes to help. However, choosing stainless steel is the way to go. The de-matting comb works excellent for poodles with longer hair—the blades massage without scratching to get through the tough tangles. Rakes remove not only unwanted tangles but also dead skin. Built to last through multiple grooming.It also promotes blood circulation and massages the skin for better pet health. It's suitable for all short- and long-haired dogs, cats, and other pets. It combs and massages the coat, preventing snagging and harm. The Poodle Pet Dematting Rake contains 2. The rubber grips are a plus, and the comb is safe for wet or dry hair. The comb works well for longer Poodle coats. However, be careful as it cuts easily, but overall it has many benefits to get rid of matting on your Poodle. The brush is also functional, as it contains a hole for hanging and is excellent for storage. What is the correct Poodle teething age? How many teeth do they lose? Detangling Comb Detangling combs is a necessity for your pup for many reasons. Reasons for tangling include: Low humidity in the air Lack of brushing Not using the right brush Having a skin infection Using certain chemicals, sprays, or chlorine from pools Following these guidelines will help. Frequent brushing with the right brush tool is essential. The comb contains a non-slip rubber handle, making the holding process easier. The detangling comb will take care of matting and, of course, detangle your Poodle. However, the comb may not suit more miniature Poodles. Also, depending on how bad the matting is on your pup, it may not work as well. Finishing Brush After you brush and comb the tangles, you can use a finishing brush to complete your at-home grooming. Use long strokes to remove additional loose hair, dust, and dirt. From top to bottom, you will perfect your Poodles coat effortlessly. The finishing brush is an affordable option that will make your friendly Poodle shine. Andis Pet Comb This finishing comb is a popular choice to double-check and remove leftover tangles or matting. Then, finally, get a fluffy result with the Andis comb! The brush comes in two sizes, suitable for big and small Poodles. In addition, the Andis comb is versatile since you can use it on different coats. The wide comb will detangle effortlessly, whether you need fine or coarse teeth. Work on tiny sections while taking your time. Enjoy this comb whether your Poodle has a very curly coat or is wavy. While using the Andis comb, your Poodle is show dog ready! Additional Brush Tips Every brush has a purpose, and all are great for brushing your Poodle. Fluff, detangle and style with one tool.White on White was a catalyst in the evolution of.Growing out your Poodles coat is vital for a curlier look. Brushing is essential every day, but luckily this article has you covered. Clipped Coat Poodles When it comes to a clipped Poodle, you can create this look in various ways. Typically, a trip to the groomer enhances this look, which a groomer easily achieves. In addition, a clipped coat is easier to maintain at home, which means less brushing. Corded Coat Poodles This style is different since brushing is very different for a corded Poodle. Hair divides into cords, similar to dreadlocks. However, maintenance is more complex. Although, brushing is more accessible and less frequent. Next, when searching for the perfect brush, the following items are great reminders: Look at the materials used, and the overall quality and durability Look for easy to grip handles Double-check, the size of the brush in comparison to your Poodle Overall, these three different coats are essential to picking out the best brush for your Poodle. Luckily, all Poodles contain just one coat layer. A new outlook on brushing with ease awaits you! Using a blunt comb to groom and style a Mini brown Poodle dog Remember, the best brush tool for your Poodle depends on the length, coat, size of your pup, and how often tangling and matting occur. A pin and bristle combination brush are excellent for all Poodles. For another daily option, perhaps the slicker brush suits your needs. The Hertzko Self-Cleaning Brush is a popular yet functional tool with great benefits. If your Poodle needs extra care due to deeper tangles, perhaps the detangling or matting combs are for you. As a result, I hope you feel confident preparing for your next steps. Similar Posts. Image Credit: everydoghasastory, Shutterstock Size of the Brush The size of the brush that you purchase will depend on the size of your Poodle. The smaller the Poodle, the smaller the brush needs to be. Always double-check the listed measurements. You should also look at any photos that customers have posted, as those should give you a much better idea of the size. These are typically a slicker brush, pin brush, comb, and shedding brush. The slicker brush is probably the most common tool used on Poodles. Image Credit: David Herraez Calzada, Shutterstock The Handle Most brushes tend to have ergonomic rubber handles designed to be comfortable in your hands and prevent slipping. Finally, the Resco Wrap Comb for Dogs is expensive, but it is sturdy and well-made and is an excellent anti-static comb. Hopefully, these reviews of 10 of the best Poodle brushes have brought you closer to finding the perfect brush for your pup. A Canadian expat, Nicole now lives on a lush forest property with her Kiwi husband and new baby daughter in New Zealand. She has a strong love for all animals of all shapes and sizes and particularly loves a good interspecies friendship and wants to share her animal knowledge and other experts' knowledge with pet lovers across the globe.Read more Advertisement. There seems to be an endless supply of brushes and grooming products out there for dogs. How do you know which brushes are best for your Poodle? Just like with beauty and hygiene products in humans, there is a myriad of different hairbrush options available for dogs. The best types of hair brushes for poodles include: Slicker Brushes: The Slicker Brush is the most commonly recommended brush type for grooming a Poodle. These are the best choice for regular grooming and working out tough mats in the hair. Combs: A sturdy toothed comb is another valuable grooming tool for you and your poodle. A comb can be particularly beneficial when it comes to grooming more sensitive areas, like the face, so you avoid any poking with the wire bristles of the slicker brush. They work similarly to the slicker brush but can be more effective for cleaning out any dirt that may have been trapped in the coat. These are designed with fine metal teeth to collect any loose hair that would be shed. If you really want to eliminate pet hair altogether, then regular use of the shedding brush definitely helps. Grooming a Poodle is an involved and labor-intensive process. Here are some of our favorite brushes found on Amazon to keep a poodle beautiful and happy. Best of all, this brush features a self-cleaning mechanism. Anyone who has experience brushing a Poodle knows what a pain it can be to try and clean the brush so that it remains effective during use. Well, with just the push of a button, the pins retract, allowing the trapped hair to fall away so you can quickly wipe the pad clean. This brush comes in three different sizes, so be sure to pick one that is right for your size pet. Cleaning will require a little bit more effort, however, since you will have to pull all the hair out from between the bristles. This brush is best for large dogs with dense, coarse coats. Safari Dematting Dog Comb Matted hair is not only unsightly but also uncomfortable for your dog. Regular use of a slicker brush will help keep hair from getting severely matted. If you do notice some matted hair on your dog, you will want a large comb to work it out. I recommend the Safari Dematting Dog Comb to work out any tough area of matted hair. This wide-toothed comb is a great choice for working out those stubborn tufts of hair. Best of all, this comb is equipped with serrated edges to gently root out dead skin and tough tangles. This comb is pretty large though, maybe even too large for the facial area of your pet. However, if you are interested in really taming any shedding that may exist, consider the FURminator Undercoat Deshedding Tool for Dogs This specially designed grooming tool reaches deep into the coat to gently lift and remove any lingering hair. This FURminator brush was designed by a professional groomer to be effective and safe. Regular use of this brush will virtually eliminate shedding from your poodle altogether. Andis Pin Brush This pin brush very closely resembles a traditional human hairbrush. While it may not seem that your average hairbrush could tackle the dense curls of a Poodle, the Andis Pin Brush is a great addition to your grooming arsenal. There are no special gadgets or gimmicks to this brush, so you can trust it to perform simply and reliably for a long time. Plus, it is one of the cheapest brushes on our list! Millers Forge Unbreakable Style Slicker Brush A common and disheartening issue when using a slicker brush is that the brush may get stuck and as you try to remove it and the handle breaks. This highly affordable, simple slicker brush boasts an absolutely unbreakable handle. It features fine stainless steel bristles, like the other slicker brushes on this list. The handle construction is really the specialty here. You need a solid comb, that you can be precise with to avoid poking any sensitive areas. This comb is on the smaller side but features a side with narrow spaced stainless steel teeth on one side, and widely spaced teeth on the other. The small, ergonomic handle is easy to control in those more delicate spaces. The primary drawback is that the comb is maybe too small to really reach all needed areas in larger Poodles. The ball tip pins remove tangles deep down, and then the bristles on the other side are great for clearing away excess hair. The ergonomic grip is designed for comfort while you work out each and every tangle. I have experienced issues with the handle breaking with this product. This high-quality slicker brush features stainless steel bristles and a self cleaning retractable function to easily dislodge hair from the bristles. This is one of the slightly more expensive brushes on the list but is worth every penny! The bristles of this brush are slightly more flexible than some others that are a bit more rigid. Hertzko claims this helps the brush more effectively penetrate thick hair without scratching or irritating skin. How Do You Brush a Poodle? Choosing your grooming tools is just the beginning. But with all the curls, it can seem a little daunting. You may not even be sure where to start or what direction to brush in. If you find yourself hitting a lot of resistance, consider trying a different tool to see if you can work it out the tangle. Avoid applying too much pressure in response to resistance. You want to help work out knots and mats, not just tear through them. Otherwise, this could be incredibly painful for your dog. Be patient and take your time as your brush. Depending on the size of your Poodle, it will take a little while to really get all the way through. Rushing usually ends up being less effective and more painful. Poodles should be brushed between two and three times a week in order to maintain a healthy coat. Poodles have naturally curly hair which easily traps dust, dirt, and debris, resulting in tangles and matted hair. Setting aside time daily for brushing can prevent tough tangles and matted hair from appearing, Depending on how much outside playing your Poodle gets and the density of his coat, daily brushing may be the best bet. This sounds like a chore, but Poodles are a bit high-maintenance pets. While it may be labor-intensive to brush your Poodle daily, remember that regular everyday grooming will save you time and effort in the long run, saving you the work of getting tangles and mats out later. Regular short brushing sessions will also be more comfortable for your pet than irregular, very long grooming sessions where you have to work out all these knots and tangles. It is important to note that how regularly you brush your Poodle does not have anything to do with how regularly the coat is trimmed, and how the hair grows. This depends on what sort of grooming and trim style you prefer for your Poodle. Now you could consider grooming your Poodle yourself, but this is only something you should do with the right tools and practice. You would need a special grooming table, some clippers, scissors, and some additional combs and brushes. Check out this article I wrote on the best grooming tables for Poodles. Check out this video if you would like to learn more about grooming your Poodle at home: Professional groomers not only offer valuable experience, but also critical knowledge and care. Basic grooming maintenance, like brushing and baths, are fine at home, but unless you are experienced, leave the haircuts to the professionals. When brushing your Poodle, consider these tips: Try to make grooming fun for your dog. Grooming has the potential to be an unpleasant experience in more ways than one, so incentivize your pup to behave positively. Reward patience and good behavior with treats and affection. Provide positive reinforcement and high-value rewards to keep your dog engaged and calm during the entire grooming process. Toy Poodles and Standard Poodles will need slightly different attention and tools. Remember that your Poodle does not have an undercoat. Many dogs have a top coat and an undercoat. It just means that when you are brushing your dog, you will be reaching down into the hair that you can see, and then you will be reaching the skin. In fact, there are three different varieties of common poodle coats, and they should be treated a little bit differently. The three main types of poodle coats include: Curly Coats: A curly coat is a way to describe a poodle whose hair has been allowed to grow long naturally. These long, curly coats require a lot of regular brushing and attention to keep them from getting twisted and matted with dirt. Corded Coats: A corded coat when rather than brush mats out, they are separated into little sections that closely resemble cords. This is a pretty cool look, but it can be difficult to maintain. Clipped Coats: The clipped coat is likely what comes to mind when you imagine a poodle that recently got a haircut. The groomer trims down the length of the curls to a much more manageable length. Check out this article I wrote on different Poodle hair types to see even more in-depth information and pictures of these Poodle coats, as well as a few more not mentioned in this article. There are several options out there, and they all primarily achieve the same goal, which is helping to loosen knots and tangles. You basically just spritz a little bit of the spray in the desired area before brushing and then brush as normal. It should help to loosen the curls. The best detangling spays found on Amazon include: 1. The spray uses silk proteins and vitamins to detangle hair and loosen knots while leaving behind a healthy shine. The product is made in the USA without any parabens or sulfates. If you notice your dog is irritated in any way by the spray, then you should stop using it, but it is perfectly safe and effective to help you brush out those tangles. The eco-friendly formula is carefully crafted to be completely safe for your furry friend. It is pH balanced to soothe their skin, and there is no danger if they lick or ingest any of the product. Pet Head manufactures the product in the USA without the use of sulfates or parabens. Poodles are amazing companions but require considerably more upkeep and attention than some other breeds. All of the brushes described above are great for their specific purpose, but they work best when combined. A slicker brush is the best primary tool when brushing your poodle. Though unnecessary, a shedding brush may also be employed to remove any excess loose hair in Poodles. I recommend that you try out a slicker brush, a comb, and a pin brush, and see what works for you and your pet. Sometimes all you need is a quick spritz to loosen things up. Lastly, check in with your groomer next time you stop by for a trim about what they recommend. No matter what brush and style you go with, just remember that it is most important to keep your Poodle happy and healthy. I hope you found it helpful. Here are some products that I personally believe every owner should employ to help ensure the best quality of life for their dogs. But in all honesty, these are the exact products that I use and recommend to everyone, even my own family. Lemonade Pet Insurance : Lemonade Pet Insurance has enabled me to afford a very high level of veterinary care for my dog, Angus. Even after he was diagnosed with cancer a few years back. This program actually works, and at a small fraction of the cost of hiring a dog trainer! Pet Plate is the dog food subscription service I use to provide extremely healthy, pre-portioned meals for my dog. Pet Plate gives my dog Angus the highest quality nutrition at a very affordable price. BarkBox : Without a doubt, my dog enjoys Barkbox more than anything else I buy him. BarkBox delivers a customized box of themed toys, treats, and other products to your door each month. In addition, I like that a percentage of proceeds is donated to local animal shelters. I Purchase this service for my dog Angus and have saved hundreds of dollars over visiting his local vet with questions or more minor health concerns. Brent Hartman I'm Brent Hartman. I've been a dog lover my entire life and have owned many animals over the years. When my black lab Angus passed away, I was looking for another friend to share my life with. As a result of my research, I've come to love poodles and wanted to share some of what I've learned with you. Whether you're looking to adopt a poodle, or already own one, I created Poodle report to be the ultimate guide to help you find the answers you need. Recent Posts. We only recommend products we have tested and use on our own dogs. Poodles are intelligent and affectionate, but, boy do they take a lot of grooming! My sister had a Poodle for years, and they often appeared to share the same hairstyle — tangled and unruly! While my sister valiantly tried to tame her own hair with a tangle teaser, she battled to find a brush that could work the same magic on Daisy, her standard Poodle. My sister went through at least five combs, a couple of dematting rakes, and a handful of slicker brushes before she struck gold in the form of a Hertzko Self Cleaning Slicker Brush. Suddenly, Daisy was transformed into a big, beautiful ball of white fluff! The ergonomic handle makes it more comfortable for the groomer as well, taking the hand strain out of a long grooming session and making you more willing to commit to a daily pampering ritual. Not only will the Hertzko slicker brush remove dead hair and tangles, but it will also help prevent mats from developing, but boosting circulation, and improving the overall quality of your dog's coat. Check the current price! I think one of the things Daisy appreciated most about this slicker brush was that it massages your dog at the same time as removing tangles and matted hair. Simple, but highly effective. With its two-and-a-half inch blades, this durable brush looks like an instrument of torture - according to Daisy, anyway - but it proved quite pleasurable for her in the end. Top-grade rubber forms the body of the brush, making it perfect for high-maintenance hounds like the Poodle. You can even use it on long-haired rabbits and horses if necessary! Just run the comb through the damp curls and, voila, the individual strands of hair stay separated so the tangles can get a foothold. Two sets of teeth - one long, one short - give this comb its dual-action power that will get rid of the toughest tangles and impossible mats. Even skittish dogs with prior bad experiences at the groomer's seem to find it comfortable. Cheaper than either the rake comb or the slicker brush, this comb is comfortable to use, effective, and offers excellent value for money. At eight inches long and 2. It works well on both the Poodle's curly coat and the softer, wavier hair of the various Doodle breeds. It comes with coarse and fine teeth, both of which will stimulate the hair follicles while removing tangles and debris from the coat. The Andis pet steel comb glides through the coat thanks to its well-spaced teeth, making it comfortable for your Poodle. It is also small enough for you to concentrate on sections of the coat, rather than brushing the entire dog in one go, making it easier to use on dogs that squirm or fidget during the grooming process. How to Pick the Best Brush for a Poodle With so many different brushes and grooming products for Poodles, it can be tricky to figure out which is the best for you. Professional groomers tend to prefer slicker brushes, like the one from Hertzko, because they are easy to clean, versatile, and hard-wearing. They can also make the grooming process more comfortable for a skittish or fidgety dog. The only type of popular dog brush we have not mentioned is the shedding brush, and you will find out why in a minute. Poodles are known as hypoallergenic dogs as they do not shed like most breeds. Another thing about Poodles that sets them apart from other dog breeds is that they only have one coat, rather than two. This means that there is no undercoat to be removed, which is what shedding brushes like the Furminator are designed to do. Using a brush of this kind on your Poodle could result in you pulling her hair out by the roots, causing her discomfort, hair loss, and potential skin disorders. My sister used to brush Daisy daily but, once she started using the Hertzko slicker brush, found she could drop it down to every other day. A good bath once a month gives you the chance to help your dog reset. Bathing stimulates the skin and improves the quality of the coat. Using a detangling shampoo and conditioner can make it easier to brush or comb the coat afterward to ensure your dog is free from the irritation of matted hair. A hypoallergenic shampoo is also highly recommended for Poodles who are prone to skin sensitivities and allergies. You can shave a Poodle early on in their life! Conclusion Keeping your Poodle tangle-free and looking good requires a regular grooming regime and one of the best brushes for Poodles. Affordable yet durable, the Hertzko slicker brush removes mats without hurting your dog and cleans itself with the clip of a button. Poodles that spend a lot of time running through the undergrowth and splashing in the mud will inevitably develop a muddle of mats through their coats. The Poodle Pet dematting fur rake can take on the toughest of tangles with its two-and-a-half-inch blades. Affordable and effective it can be teamed with a finishing comb, like the one from Andis, to leave your Poodle looking ready to enter its first show. She spends all her waking hours with her Australian Cattle Dog, Koala, either walking, horse-riding, running, or just hanging out. Originally from the UK, Nicky been living with dogs for over 40 years and is a passionate dog-owner. With a Masters Degree from the University of London under her belt, Nicky has had a diverse career, training and riding horses, running safari lodges, and hosting volunteers. Starting out just training her own Border Collies, she gradually expanded to local classes and seminars, now she travels as far as Europe and teaches students all over the world on how to train their dogs in a positive, bonding, game-based way. She is known for her clear, step-by-step training that lets beginners and advanced dog trainers see lasting results very quickly.