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We have a litter of beautiful, purebred German Shepherd puppies that are ready for their forever homes. Each pup will be vet-checked, vaccinated, microchipped and comes with a health record. Our German Shepherds are known for their loyalty, intelligence, and protective nature, making them the perfect addition to any family. These pups have been raised with love and care. If you're looking for a loyal and loving companion, these German Shepherd puppies are the perfect fit. Contact us today to schedule a visit and meet your new furry family member! It's important to note that protection dogs require extensive training and should only be handled by trained professionals. NOTE: If you are considering getting a puppy from two working security dogs, it's important to understand the responsibilities that come with owning a dog with such high energy and drive. These dogs will require a lot of exercise and mental stimulation to prevent boredom and destructive behaviour. Additionally, they may need specialised training to properly direct their protective instincts. It's also important to note that not all puppies from working security dog parents will have the temperament or drive for security work. Some may be more suitable for other types of work, such as search and rescue, or may simply make great family pets. Contact me for further details on…Mr ALI. Director at Meetchk9 Happy to help with any queries. He is microchipped but he was sold to the owner's dog trainer in England yet somehow ended up in Cardiff wandering the streets! He has muscle wastage due to lack of exercise which can be rectified by short walks and swimming, which he is doing at the dog pound because its next to the river. He was neutered 2 weeks ago. Our volunteer found him to be very excitable, which is natural considering his age and being confined to a cramped kennel. He is very friendly and seems good with other dogs passing by. He will bark whilst on the leash at the odd dog but not all. He has a lot of muscle wastage as you can see in pics. The young kennel maid who only works 2 days per week is the only member of staff that takes him out of his rather small kennel as she said he's far too strong for the other girls to handle. He was pulling like a train which is only natural. Our volunteer worked with him for about 20 minutes and he was walking to heel. She used the ball and this is his main focus - he is ball crazy. Abascis has been in kennels from early March and getting so stressed we think this is why he's so lean. Our volunteer has asked if she would be allowed to go and work with him for a while and management have agreed which is great news for Abascis. More than anything our wish would be to get him out of the pound and into a home. We are sure he would make somebody very happy. People have shown interest but as soon as they are told about his muscle wastage they walk on by which this beautiful boy does not deserve. Abascis deserves a home, his muscle wastage can be rectified with gentle exercise and swimming which is so good for him. How could you not love this lovely lad? Bookmark Young German Shepherd dog lying down on the grass Almost a third of the public thinks German shepherds are aggressive, despite most having never had a negative experience with one, according to new research. And the common misconception is negatively affecting the number of Guide Dog volunteers willing to look after a German shepherd. Guide Dogs is today launching a campaign to educate Brits about the realities behind the breed. Over a third believe they look frightening compared to other breeds, because of their wolf-like face, large size, and sharp, pointed ears. But German shepherds are loyal, adaptable and incredibly intelligent, making them excellent guide dogs for those who want a fast-moving and focused companion. In fact, German shepherds were the very first guide dogs in the UK back in .In particular, we need more enthusiastic volunteers who love German shepherds to help us raise the next generation of these guide dogs. He is an exceptionally clever guide dog and will focus brilliantly in busy places. Other dog walkers will avoid us when I let him off-lead at the park, and many taxi drivers do not like him. People just do not see German shepherds as guide dogs and twice I have been chased by security guards asking me to leave shopping centres with Arthur. She is a wonderful mother and has the patience of a saint with her current litter of nine guide dog puppies, as well as our pet tortoises, terrier, and cat. But nevertheless, people are frightened of her. Or by navigating to the user icon in the top right. Follow Wales Online.

You can use the information on dog food packets.Show more How much grooming does a Pug need? Although Pugs have short fur, they do shed so you'll need to brush them occasionally. To help your dog feel comfortable with handling and grooming, introduce it in a positive way, one step at a time. Show more What size crate do you need for a Pug? When inside their crate, your dog should have plenty of space to: sit and stand up at their full height turn around without touching the sides lie down fully stretch.To find out more about potential.Are Pugs easy to train? You can teach any breed of dog new tricks! Find out what your dog loves so you can use this to reward them after a success. Just like you, every dog is an individual with their own personality and prior experiences. So every Pug temperament is different. As dogs grow from puppies, they learn all about the world. They develop their own like.Show more Are Pugs good with children? Every dog has their own unique personality that has been shaped by their own experiences of the world. However, there are som.Show more. Vocality level 5 in 5 Disclaimer: While the characteristics mentioned here may frequently represent this breed, dogs are individuals whose personalities and appearances will vary. Please consult the adoption organization for details on a specific pet. Temperament ACA delightful blend of dignity and comedy, the Pug is an amiable, playful, and confident companion. They can be stubborn and headstrong, but they are pleasant and generally willing to please. They love to cavort and show off. Upkeep The Pug needs daily exercise, either in the form of a lively game or a moderate walk. They do not do well in heat and humidity. They needs minimal coat care but daily cleaning of facial wrinkles. Their smooth coat needs only occasional brushing to remove dead hairs; however, the wrinkles need regular cleaning and drying to prevent skin infections. The Pug may often wheeze and snore. Health Major concerns: Pug dog encephalitis, CHD, brachycephalic syndrome Minor concerns: elongated palate, stenotic nares, patellar luxation, Legg-Perthes, entropion, KCS, skin infections, hemivertebra Occasionally seen: seizures, nerve degeneration, distichiasis, allergies, demodicosis Suggested tests: eye, hip, knee, DNA Pug dog encephalitis Life span: 12—15 years Note: The Pug cannot tolerate heat and is sensitive to anesthesia. They are prone to corneal abrasion and obesity. The Pug is somewhat of an exception in the Toy Group because they are perhaps the only one to be descended from mastiff forebears. Although their exact ancestry has been lost in antiquity, the Pug retains many mastiff characteristics. The Pug is an ancient breed, one of several miniaturized in the Orient, where they were a favorite pet of Buddhist monasteries in Tibet many centuries ago. Here they became quite popular and were recognized as the official dog of the House of Orange after one saved the life of Prince William by sounding an alarm at the approach of Spanish soldiers in .Pugs were first brought to England during Victorian times and became incredibly popular with the wealthy, displacing the King Charles Spaniel as the favored royal breed. Several Pugs were brought to England from China in .A year earlier, the breed had been recognized by the AKC. Since that time, they have remained popular a pet. Related Content. I have more energy than the energizer bunny! I play hard and cuddle just as much! I'm pretty smart and will need a smart human to teach me the ways of the world. I picked up the doggy dog pretty fast and waking on a leash without biting it. I love playing with toys and playing in general! My favorite game is when you chase me!! Im good with humans and when I see a dog I want to engage in play! Could you be my forever family? Adopt Testimonials We had an amazing experience with Pughearts! The process was thorough which I appreciated. The volunteers and organization are extremely passionate about their rescue dogs and their well being. We are so grateful for our fur babies and for Pughearts! We live out of state and Pug Hearts went above and beyond to come and inspect our home. Every step of the way all the volunteers I worked with were kind and quick to answer all my many questions through the adoption process. When I flew to Houston to meet the pug we were hoping to adopt, my flight was significantly delayed and our pug's foster mom took the next day off just so I could come meet with her! Our pug came to us in great health, fully checked by the Pug Hearts vet team, with detailed vet records for her continued care. We continue to stay in touch with the volunteers and our Pug's foster mom sending updates and sharing stories, Not only did we add the sweetest pug girl to our family, we feel like we came away with new friends! We will always adopt from Pug Hearts from now on and highly recommend them for your family too! Everyone we spoke with and worked with was very nice and answered all of our questions quickly. Ann was awesome about coming to do the home visit for us since we live in a remote location in Colorado. Karen was awesome about giving us all the information we needed and making sure our pup was all set to travel back from Houston. We would recommend Pug Hearts for anyone looking to help find a pug a forever home! I have nothing but wonderful things to say about this rescue! Our pug had been found wandering the streets , was underweight and had severe behavioral issues. His foster mother worked with him for 4 months to get him ready to come home with us. Not only did we get a new family member but I made a great friend as well. They take in pugs of any age with any medical problem and provide them with not only the medical care they need but the love they deserve. No pug is left behind. They are extremely thorough in the application process and truly care about the well-being of every single animal that they help. The organization has a wonderful group of volunteers, donors, and Fosters. The intake coordinator and the Director are absolutely wonderful to communicate with. They are very knowledgeable and caring. I have adopted three pugs from them and anytime I have questions or concerns they are quick to reply with a solution. Hands-down the best rescue in the entire world!! Select Page Adopting a Pug We are always on the lookout for the right people and environment to provide forever homes for pugs in our care, across the UK. There is an urgent need for new homes currently, due to a high level of pugs being surrendered this year, plus for those with special-needs or requiring specific environments to suit their physical or emotional needs. Occasionally this means homes without other dogs. Due to the care taken, to match each pug according to their individual needs, waiting times for successful applicants will vary. If you are considering adopting a pug or a bonded-pair of pugs, please read this section. As a registered charity we rely on donations from the public to carry out our work which is undertaken by a small team of volunteers. The Pug is a unique and special breed, requiring a unique and special home. Pugs are rehomed with the applicant most suited to the specific needs of each individual Pug. It should be noted that taking on a rescue Pug is a huge commitment both emotionally and financially. Many of our Pugs will require special care and attention. Please consider this very carefully before applying to adopt. Please note that adoption donations are non-refundable. Before completing the Adoption Application Form, please read the following guidance notes. If your initial application is successful, you will then receive a further email to arrange a home check. If your home check is successful, you will receive a further email advising that you have been placed on our waiting list. Please note that it will usually take a few weeks for your application to be processed, although occasionally the adoption process can occur quickly if suitable pugs are waiting in foster homes. Applicants must be able to provide adequate insurance for the pug. Applications from those in full-time work, outside of the home, cannot be accepted. Pugs are a companion breed and need company therefore specify on your application what arrangements are in place for their daily supervision. Applicants who already own un-neutered males or un-spayed bitches will not be considered. If you are willing for your dogs to be neutered or spayed please advise us. A vet bill will be required as proof. Please keep us up to date on any changes in your circumstances. It should be noted that all Pugs are rehomed to the most appropriate home to suit the Pug. May we remind you that applicants must be aged 21 and over, and reside in the UK or Channel Isles. If you are selected to adopt a Pug, you will usually be required to take him or her at very short notice, and without having seen the Pug. If your application is successful, an adoption donation will be required, as we do need funds to allow us to continue to rescue Pugs and to help pay for vet fees and transportation costs. Please ensure that you have read, understood and accept the above guidance notes. Naturally as they grow older they require different levels of to younger pugs. Similarly, we have an increasing number of requests for bonded pugs who need rehoming together. While this may cost you a little more, they are ready-made companions who bring twice the love! If you feel you can help in either of these circumstances, please see our Golden Oldies and Perfect Pairs pages for more information.

Please learn a bit more about our Boxers on our "Meet Our Boxers" page where you can see pictures, video, and information about them. We are a homeschooling family; therefore we are home everyday and able to provide our puppies with lots of attention and family interaction. Our emphasis here at Box Elder Creek is on doing our very best to provide families and individuals with a quality puppy; one that is healthy, well socialized, has an outstanding well-rounded disposition and has the look of a true quality Boxer. We do not have puppies all the time, as we chose to only have a few litters per year; in doing so we are able to dedicate a lot of time, care, love, and attention to each and every one of our puppies. We know that we have a very limited amount of time before our puppies will be leaving us and joining their new families; we feel it is our responsibility to get our puppies off on a great start in life while they are here with us, this helps ensure they will be ready and able to become a valued and much loved member of their new family. Boxers make wonderful family pets, they are great with kids and have excellent temperaments, but they are not for everyone. They love to be a part of the family and enjoy any activity that involves interaction with people, be that hiking, jogging, agility, games that make them think, lounging, babysitting, learning try clicker training , patrol duty, stealing children's toys to get everyone to chase after them, they are prone to collect shoes into piles they seem to think this is an important job , re-arranging the laundry is a favorite past time Boxers are always very helpful!! Life with a Boxer is never dull!!! They are silly and very much a jokester. Please make sure a Boxer is for you before purchasing one as they will test your patience at times. If you are looking for a dog that is independent, a Boxer is not for you as their family is very important to them and they tend to want to follow you around all day long. Boxers adore their family and it is very important that they be apart of it. I also highly recommend before purchasing a Boxer that you make sure you will have the time for proper training, as lack of training is the 1 reason Boxers end up in Boxer Rescue. We are delighted to welcome you to our website and we hope to have the opportunity to welcome you into our Boxer family! All Rights Reserved. Boxador Puppies for Sale in Colorado. Puppies will be placed in pre-approved homes only. Our nonprofit, volunteer-run rescue has been finding forever homes for boxer and boxer mixes in Colorado since .We take pride in raising happy, healthy Boxer puppies that make great Boxers Denver, Denver, Colorado. This girl is amazing! She believes she is a lap dog, she loves to be pet, she loves cuddles and hugs and is a confident girl outside of … more. We've connected loving homes to reputable breeders since and we want to help you find the puppy your whole family will love. Family raised, tails docked and dew claws got rid of and first shots. There was only one repeat champion this. We have been breeding exceptionally sound and well socialized puppies for over 20 years. Taking deposits on puppies now!!! Deposits go towards purchase price of puppy Pupp. Spring litters planned, reserve yours today! This small home-based breeder specializes in Boxers and Pugs in Colorado. Genuine Boxers breeders care more about making the finest Boxer puppies, that are of good health and behavior. Adopting a dog of any breed is a very big decision, and one that should be agreed upon by the entire family. These are the people who care for the homeless, abused and unwanted boxers because they have a love and passion for the breed and believe they all deserve a second chance. Boxer puppies for sale in Colorado Springs CO. Indicate on the request if you want to be placed on our waiting list. With over 20 years of experience, Barr. Cairn Boxers — Windsor, Colorado. All fall puppies have been reserved. Boxer pups Male and female available Adorable, lovable, and playful little puppies. We continually strive to breed boxers to have the qualities that we like to see passed on. To see more adoptable Boxers in Glenwood Springs, Colorado, use the search tool below to enter specific criteria! Why buy a Boxer puppy for sale if you can adopt and save a life? Look at pictures of Boxer puppies in Colorado Springs who need a home. Boxer, Colorado » Coal Creek. Size: inches tall, lbs. Browse thru our ID Verified puppy for. Should your first choices have found their forever home, let us suggest a few. Search for boxer rescue dogs for adoption near Denver, Colorado. Spring litters planned, reserve yours today! Boxers Denver, Denver, Colorado. Breeder Location City: Peyton, Colorado. Ready march 1st, located in Florence, Co. We are very very excited for you. Boxer puppies sale in Colorado Springs CO. Barr Lake Boxer Puppies Colorado. They have been breeding well socialized, healthy, happy pups for over two decades now and are. The Boxer Rescue, Inc. Boxer puppies and dogs in Fruita, Colorado. Do not place any deposits without having purchase approval from the Owner. They will be … Boxer Puppies excited for loving families .AKC proudly supports dedicated and responsible breeders. Find Boxer puppies for sale Near Colorado Despite their light and fun-loving nature, the Boxer is a hardworking, versatile, and vigilant breed that is incredibly loyal to their family. We've connected loving homes to reputable breeders since and we want to help. Boxer Puppies for Sale in COLORADO Boxers are upbeat, playful family dogs that have earned a reputation for being protective guardians or watchdogs and silly, bright-eyed, affectionate companions for children. Here are a few organizations closest to you: Shelter .Location: Colorado Springs, CO. History: The Boxer descends from two dogs of the now extinct Bullenbeisser breed from Germany: the Danziger Bullenbeisser and the Brabanter Bullenbeisser. Americanlisted has classifieds in Denver, Colorado for dogs and cats. There are animal shelters and rescues that focus specifically on finding great homes for Boxer puppies in Fruita, Colorado. Despite their light and fun-loving nature, the Boxer is a hardworking, versatile, and vigilant breed that is incredibly loyal to their family. Timberline boxer puppies and adults are well socialized and loved daily. With over 20 years of experience, Barr Lake Boxers is focused on pairing you with beautiful, healthy, energetic, family friendly, and amazing puppies. They have been breeding well socialized, healthy, happy pups for over two decades now and are well known in the local dog community as ethical and responsible breeders in Colorado. As a result, a lot of families come home happy with their Boxer puppies. Browse these Boxer rescues and shelters below. Why buy a Boxer puppy for sale if you can adopt and save a life? Never buy a puppy from a puppy mill that mass produces Boxer puppies just for profits. History: The Boxer descends from two dogs of the now extinct Bullenbeisser breed from Germany: the Danziger Bullenbeisser and the Brabanter Bullenbeisser, both of which were used by hunters for chasing large game. Boxer puppies for sale in Colorado Springs, CO from trusted. No puppies where found matching your criteria. Location: Strasburg, Colorado. Phone e-mail: jaydee yahoo. Check with the breeder for up-to-date information on puppy availability. Boxer puppies for sale in Arizona from trusted breeders. I have done my research into Boxer health and now I am the proud owner of two smart, active, beautiful and. These puppies are family raised with TLC and socialized. There are animal shelters and rescues that focus specifically on finding great homes for Boxer puppies in Gunnison, Colorado. She just turned 6 and weighs 48 pounds. Champion Parents Labrador Retriever Puppies. Brighton, Colorado. He is very attentive and eager to please. Learn more Transportation Location Price. Spring litters planned, reserve. The Boxer dog breed slowly gained popularity throughout Europe in the late s. The coat can be fawn or brindle, with white markings. He was then imported to the United. If you are unable to find your Boxer puppy. Website: Box Elder Creek Boxers. Boxer puppies for sale in Colorado Springs, CO from trusted breeders. Take time to do your research, and work with a reputable breeder. Avoid scams by acting locally or paying with PayPal. I am a retired school teacher and now I have the time to do what I always wanted to do. My Boxers are part of the household and mean the world to me. The owners of Cairn Boxers genuinely care about this breed. If you are unable to find your Boxer puppy in our Puppy for Sale or Dog for Sale sections, please consider looking thru thousands of Boxer Dogs for Adoption. I hope you will join my Boxer family. We live on a small farm in Montrose Colorado. We recommend speaking directly with your breeder to get a better idea of their price range. Prices may vary based on the breeder and individual puppy for sale in Fort Collins, CO. These breeders are far and few, so do your research and ask questions. Boxer Puppies in Colorado. Beautiful Boxer Puppies For Sale .Best Boxer Breeders in Colorado! The life expectancy of this breed is between 10 and 12 years. Color Available puppies Certified breeders puppies who can be transported to you These puppies come from breeders who offer safe, convenient puppy drop-off options — so you can get your new best friend delivered from anywhere. Boxer puppies and dogs in Lamar, Colorado. Boxers are a very loving breed of dogs that make great family pets! I have done my research into Boxer health and now I am the proud owner of two smart, active, beautiful. Hello, and welcome to Black Canyon Boxers. Email: kim boxeldercreekboxers. There are animal shelters and rescues that focus specifically on finding great homes for Boxer puppies in Salida, Colorado. Be happy for the ones that have been adopted… The right Boxer is worth waiting for. Our group is made up of dedicated volunteers. I am dedicated to the continued enhancement of this most special breed. Boxer puppies for sale in Fort Collins CO. He was then imported to the United States in and was accepted by the American Kennel Club the following year. The American Boxer Club was established in .The Boxer is considered a medium to large dog and averages in height from inches for a male and .Puppies are current on vaccines appropriate for their age. Boxer breeder of quality health tested boxers. To know a Boxer is to love a Boxer. Adoption Process Make a Donation. For more information, you can check out the details below. Boxers Denver Denver CO. Find your Boxer puppy for sale in Colorado. The Molossus blood makes the hardworking Boxer dog courageous, bright, and alert. We take pride in raising happy, healthy Boxer puppies that make great family companions. The Westminster Dog Show is beginning to draw to a close and is now much closer to crowning its winner following Monday's Best of Group competition.

Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Click here to add your own text and edit me. Welcome to the Sergeant's Boxers website! Thank you for stopping by! We are Cassie and Luke! First off, Boxers are the absolute best family members imaginable. Luke and I gained our first boxer family member in .From the very beginning, we were hooked! We then gained our newest addition, Diva and boy does her name fit her well! We were overjoyed with our family fur-members and wanted to provide joy to other families. That is when we decided we wanted to breed Boxers and bring love and happiness to other families, just as our Boxers brought love and happiness into ours. Our family continued to grow, as did our happiness and joy! We now have 8 boxers and one spayed boxer mix. All are our fur-kids come first and foremost! Diva and Sergeant had their first litter in .Since then, we have learned so much about the breed and about producing healthy puppies. A lot of thought and research goes into each and every breeding. In the early part of , we started showing. This was such a new experience for us, but we enjoyed it so very much! Bailey was our first girl to show and she had a blast! Her face would light up when trotting around the ring. She obtained her International and National Champion Title that weekend and we were so very proud of her! Remington and Diva were a little hesitant at first, but ended up doing very well by the end of the weekend. By the 4th run, they were so excited to get out there and perform! They ran their hearts out and smiled while doing so. It also helped that daddy was there the second day and waiting at the finish line for them : Captain and Benelli went to their first show in June of .Benelli was just 3 months old and competed in the baby class. She did so very well! She gained great ratings that first day and caught the eyes of everyone there! Captain also did very well! He strutted around the ring and smiled the entire time! It was not hard to see that this was something he enjoyed so very much! We couldn't wait to get them back out there for the next show! In September of , we went to 2 shows! The first show was a UKC show. Captain and Bailey competed and had a blast. Captain obtained his UKC Champion. Bailey obtained all of the points needed and is now only waiting for her competition wins. We cant wait to call her a UKC Champion too! Captain gained his National, International and Honors Ch. At only 3 months old, Dawn made it to Best of Show during this show! It is the best feeling in the world to see the smiles on their faces and their eyes lighting up! They all had a blast! Captain obtained his Honors Bronze Champion Title. Both girls did well. They both won first in each of their classes and Dawn won Reserve Best of Breed in all four shows. We were unable to attend due to puppies being at home, but didnt want the girls to miss out on a great weekend of showing! Dawn got first in class for all three shows. Benelli got first in class all three shows. Benelli also got Reserve Best Female in two show and Best female in one show. For being at a show without mama and dad, the girls did so good! Im so proud of them and a special thanks to Angie for talking the girls! We look forward to the upcoming shows and we are so very excited!! Benelli gained another competition win and many points to add towards obtaining her UKC Champion Title! I have no doubt she will obtain the rest of the needed points and competition win needed to obtain her title soon! The girls did great, even with the judges all wearing masks! We can not wait until the next show!! This was Sergeant's first show and he surprised us all!! We had a blast! Results will be posted in each of their files. Sergeant, Harley, Captain and Dawn participated and did very well! Captain even made it to the Best of Show on Sunday! Dawn and Remi did absolutely wonderful! Harley struggled a bit. She wanted to catch the line instead of the lure! Anyways, they all had a great time and we will certainly be back for more! Harley and Captain got to attend the Norman show! Harley won Reserve Ch x3 shows. Captain and our friend Junior handler Alicia Hood won x1 best Junior class! They both did great! Can't wait until the next show! Remi also came out to the show for her very first time! Dawn and Harley also attended and both did well. Captain, of course, tagged along too! Results will be posted once they are posted on UKC site, as I completely forgot to write down results while at the show! Such an exciting sport. Watching them be so excited to chase the lure is absolutely fun times!! We traveled all of the way there to be a part of this amazing show! We earned a total of 9 titles in both Dock Jumping and Precision Coursing! Harley showed in a couple of shows there, but did not place she was too busy worrying about diving and Captain got to strut around in the TOP 10 Boxer ring! Huge Congratulations to these girls!! Information to come! This means that for every litter, Sergeants Boxers will go down the list and offer puppies to the families in order of deposits received. The family may choose a puppy from the current litter or may pass to wait for a later litter. Even if the family initially expressed the desire for a puppy from a future litter early in the conversation, they will still be asked if they would like to select a puppy when the current litter selections start. Selections start at each litter's 6 weeks of age mark. This allows the families to not only pick from color, but also from personality. Please know that these can change at any time and are only listed for reference. This is non-negotiable. Life Span Did You Know? The Boxer is one of the most popular dog breeds in the United States. It has been recognized by the AKC since .Although the Boxer dog breed originated in Germany, their ancient ancestry can be traced back to the Assyrian empire war dogs of BC. The modern Boxer breed we know and love today was originally developed in Germany in the late s. English-bred Bulldogs and the Bullenbesiier were crossed to create an energetic and agile hunting dog to chase wild game. The Boxer is a popular family companion and a versatile working dog. As a member of the Working Group, Boxers can be found competing in dog sports like agility, obedience, and herding. They also make great service and assistance dogs, as well as therapy dogs, and can be found working as search and rescue dogs, drug detection dogs, police dogs, and military dogs. The Boxer is a muscular and energetic dog that tends to have a happy, friendly disposition. They bond closely with their families and tend to get along well with children and other dogs. They can even do well with other pets despite their high prey drive if they are socialized and trained with them. As long as they are well-socialized, Boxers are generally upbeat, playful, and friendly. Although they have a natural instinct to protect their family from unwanted visitors, they do tend to warm up once introduced and are happy to make a new friend. They can be prone to barking a lot if you do not work on socialization and training your dog to stop barking early on. Boxers can be highly adaptable dogs. Although they have a lot of energy and are better suited to homes with yards where they can run, they can adapt to apartment living as long as they get the daily exercise, attention, and mental stimulation they need. As with any non-arctic dog breed, they are sensitive to very cold temperatures. Boxers are also a brachycephalic breed, which means they are even more sensitive to heat than other dogs. A Boxer is also one of the most affectionate dog breeds. Because they bond so closely with their families and get bored easily, they should not be left alone for long periods of time. Potential health conditions to be aware of in a Boxer include hip dysplasia, degenerative myelopathy, thyroid issues , and heart conditions like aortic stenosis and cardiomyopathy. Good breeding practices make a big difference and reputable breeders will screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues to puppies. So, make sure you are asking the breeder about the health and genetic history of the parents and about any health tests that have been done. Boxers are intelligent dogs that are eager to please their owners. Despite their energetic personality, they are one of the best dog breeds for first-time owners and are highly trainable dogs. They tend to excel at almost any task put before them! Because of their open, friendly nature and high energy, they have a tendency to jump up at people in excitement and playfulness. Since they grow into powerful dogs, you will want to make sure you train your dog not to jump up. Boxers have smooth and short coats that will shed a little year-round and require minimal grooming. A brush-down once or twice a week and the occasional bath as needed will keep their short coat healthy and looking great. Nail trims once or twice a month are usually enough to keep nails from growing too long. Checking ears weekly and carefully cleaning as needed can help prevent ear infections. Checking and wiping their facial wrinkles weekly or a few times a week if your dog is prone to getting into things can help keep their wrinkles clean and free of irritation. Dental diseases, like gum disease, are the most common health issues in older dogs because dental care is often overlooked; and, it can lead to other serious health issues. Brushing daily, plus cleanings at the vet when needed, is ideal. The Boxer is a high-energy dog breed that needs plenty of daily exercise to stay happy and healthy. Due to their high prey drive and urge to chase, they should only be let off-leash in secure areas. Boxers tend to get bored with repetition, are excellent problem solvers, and are naturally exuberant. A fully-grown Boxer usually stands inches tall at the shoulder and weighs pounds. Boxers generally live years on average. In Germany, the Boxer was one of the first dog breeds chosen for police training. Featured Boxer Article. The contractual agreement between you and the breeder Agreement made to not breed the dog in the future Agreement made to not enter it into competitions No restrictions on the Boxer puppy Read on to see why these factors affect the price of Boxer puppies. Reputation Of The Breeder Breeders spend a lot of time and money to build up their reputation as trustworthy Boxer breeders. The more renowned a breeder is, the more they are able to charge for their dogs. However, some puppy mills and backyard breeders will shoot up their prices to appear to be reputable breeders. Therefore, you should go through a trusted association to find a reputable breeder. Do not be fooled by good advertising. The individual Boxer puppy you want to purchase must have its own papers that document its registration with the American Kennel Club. These papers cost money and will increase the price of your Boxer puppy slightly. This is important because pedigree changes the price of the Boxer puppy; I will discuss this next! Pedigree is important when it comes to determining what your Boxer puppy will look like, its temperament, and the chance of it developing genetic issues in the future as it grows up. Determining who the dam and sire of your Boxer puppy are is important in determining price. If your Boxer puppy has a champion sire or dam, then the price of the puppy will increase significantly. Champion heritage drives the price of the Boxer puppy up because the buyer is almost guaranteed to get a perfect specimen of what a Boxer should be and has a better chance at winning competitions with their Boxer puppy when it grows up. The breed, unfortunately, suffers from hip dysplasia, cardiovascular myopathy, severe arthritis, degenerative myelopathy, several cancers, and aortic valve disease. The American Kennel Club recommends that all of these tests, including thyroid screening, elbow evaluations, and certain DNA tests are all done to produce a long-term prognosis so effective preventative care can be carried out from day one. If a Boxer puppy has any health concerns, then their price will decrease, and they will often be sold for a couple of hundred dollars or so depending on the specific health issues they have. As medium-sized dogs, Boxers can leave their mothers safely at eight weeks. Many people who want to compete with their boxers will wait until the Boxer puppy is six to eight months old before purchasing them. During this time, the breeder will invest in behavioral training. When the Boxer puppy is six to eight months old, the breeder will also be able to give you a better idea of their temperament and their adult markings and ultimate size. As a result, these puppies will be much more expensive than the younger ones. Boxers will stand at 23 to 25 inches tall if they are male and .They have tall, regal-looking shoulders that slope down gently to a smaller set of hips. Their heads are quite square and are characterized by their wrinkles that make them appear confused but curious! Boxers that meet the breed standard are a fawn or brindle color with white markings on their chests, bellies, inner legs, and faces. However, the white markings may not be more than a third of their entire body. If your Boxer puppy meets the breed standard, then their price will increase because they can be used for competitions. However, if they do not meet the breed standard, then their price will be decreased, as this is seen as undesirable from a competition standpoint. The first agreement will prevent you from further breeding your Boxer puppy. The second agreement will prevent you from entering your Boxer puppy into any competitions. Both contacts will decrease the price of your Boxer puppy, as they place restrictions on what you can and cannot do with your puppy as it grows up. There are many other costs associated with owning a Boxer! One-Time Bring Home Costs There are a number of things you will need to purchase before you even pick up your Boxer puppy to make them feel more comfortable and happy in their new home! Fortunately, a lot of these items only need to be purchased once or twice, like food bowls and crates, for example. Here is a list of some of the vital things you need:.

Are you the owner of the business? These loyal, sociable dogs are excellent with children and families, and excel at obedience training and therapy work. Goldens are fairly large in size and have a medium-high energy level. They are known as loveable, confident and eager to please companions and do well in many environments, from apartments to larger living spaces. Golden Retrievers always rank high among the most popular breeds in the United States. Developed in the s as trusty hunting companions, Golden Retrievers are great swimmers and love the great outdoors. Golden Retriever puppies grow fairly large in size and have a medium-high energy level. They are loveable, confident and eager to please companions who do well in many environments, from apartments to larger living spaces. Like all dogs, however, there are some things to keep in mind before you decide on a Golden retriever puppy for sale. As large, energetic dogs, Golden Retriever puppies need an owner who can meet their exercise requirements. Golden Retriever puppies are also known to shed on furniture and slobber on things like shoes and tv remotes. Fortunately, Golden Retriever puppies are remarkably attune to human emotions and easy to obedience train. Golden Retriever puppies are also incredibly social. They crave human interaction and actively seek out human company. Though Golden Retriever puppies are always smart and sweet, they do come in different shapes, colors and sizes. Canadian Golden Retriever puppies are also stockier and have a light golden to white color. All of our Golden Retriever puppies for sale undergo a comprehensive health evaluation so you know that they are as happy and healthy as they can be when they join your family. Bedrabbled - Beverwijk Not verifiedThis business has not been claimed. Owners who claim their businesses can update their profile details, add photos, respond to reviews, and more. Request your free profile now 5. WBP Site Rings Golden Retriever puppies for sale in netherlands Finding a golden retriever puppy in netherlands has never been simpler, Browse through our golden retriever puppies for sale below from local golden retriever dog breeders in netherlands. If you do not find the golden retriever puppy for sale that you are looking for then place your request within our golden retriever dogs wanted area. Doing so will enable registered golden retriever dog breeders in netherlands to quickly scan through your requests, and at the same time we ensure your privacy as your email address will always be protected from the general public. You may view all our golden retriever puppies for sale by selecting the page numbers or if you wish by selecting a dog breed below. View Puppy Dogs by Breed: in: Can't find what your looking for: Check our dog breeders section or place an Ad within our dogs wanted area Most recent Ads listed first, you may also view our complete breed list of puppies for sale or if you prefer our Golden Retriever list of puppies for sale by country. Golden Retriever Puppy for sale 0 match found Page: Displaying Page 1 of 0 Currently there are no Golden Retriever Puppies for sale in netherlands available, however we have breeders in netherlands registered in our database. It is possible that all of the available Puppies for sale in netherlands are not listed here. If you would like we could send a broadcast to these breeders in netherlands advising them of your interest and also place an advertisement within the wanted dogs section of this site. If this is what you wish us to do then please enter in your email address below and then select the "Send Request" button. Please Note that your email address will never be made public. Your Email Address:.

Print Potty train your puppy quickly Housebreaking is one of the least desirable tasks when adding a new puppy to your family. It is never fun but consider it a necessary task. You will never regret having a dog that knows your home is not a bathroom. When to start housebreaking Housebreaking should begin the day you bring your puppy home from the breeder. It is important to establish quickly that there is a right and wrong place for your puppy to go potty. How long does it take to house train a lab puppy? I wish I could give a definitive answer for this, but the truth is that every puppy is different. Most puppies can be completely house broke by the time they are months. But assume there will be a lot of ups and downs through the process. Some puppies learn very quickly and rarely have an accident. Others take more time to make the connection. Here are some things you can do to help the process go smoothly. Have the right attitude! Keep your attitude in check to help this process go quickly and smoothly. Have patience! As already stated, potty training can take some time. It may happen, but it is unlikely. Instead, plan for a long haul and then you will be more patient and understanding when mishaps happen. The products I recommend I believe are a good value or good investment for anyone working to train or maintain training on their retriever. When possible, I include links to the product. Some of these links may be Amazon or other affiliate links in which I am paid a small commission at no cost to you. All opinions and recommendations are my own. Step 1: Establish a place for your puppy to go potty To get started housebreaking your puppy, you must first establish a place where it is okay for your puppy to do his business. Find a place outside that is not too far from your home, but an area where you are not worried about killing the grass or trampling plants that are important to you. Consider this carefully, because once your puppy starts going potty in this area it will be exceedingly difficult to move or change the area. Once the scent is there, it is natural for dogs to continue going potty in the same area over and over. Do I have to potty train outside? In some areas of the country, winters can be very cold. Some new puppy owners wonder if it is too cold for their Labrador puppy to go outside to potty train during these times. The answer is no. Most Labs can easily be outside for a few minutes even during the coldest nights to go potty. A pee pad is a disposable, leak proof pad that is scented to attract your dog and encourage going potty on them. We highly discourage using pee pads because in the long run it is confusing to your dog. If you spend time teaching your puppy to NOT go potty inside your home and then flip-flop and begin letting them go inside your home on a pee pad, your dog will be confused. Besides, eventually you must retrain them to going outside, so the best policy is to never start letting inside be an option. Step 2: Establish a routine and schedule for your puppy Establishing a routine is the single most important step for housebreaking. The more consistent you are, the faster your puppy will learn to go outside for potty. This time will increase rapidly over the next few weeks, but that first week is going to take a lot of time and energy on your part to consistently let your puppy out on a schedule. To make being consistent easier, consider this: Set a timer When housebreaking puppies, we find that setting a timer is helpful. An hour flies by and you hardly realize it. For the first few days at least, set a timer and let your puppy out hourly, especially if your puppy is not in a crate. We will discuss that more in a bit. Timing is everything There are other times when you need to let your puppy outside. Immediately after eating or drinking your puppy should go outside. Eating and drinking will trigger a need to go potty, so to avoid accidents, take your puppy out every time they eat or drink. And if they drink a lot of water, you may have to take them out several times before they are back on schedule. Anything you can do to make going potty a routine will help your dog learn and associate that going outside is where I need to go to go potty. Use a command I know this sounds crazy but using a command can help your dog form an association between the command and going potty. At first this is meaningless to the puppy. And you cannot discipline your puppy for a potty accident in the house that you never saw happen. The solution for this is never let your puppy go unsupervised. This can be exhausting, that is why we suggest using a crate to help. The stern words must be said during the accident or immediately after to have any effect. Using a crate to house train your puppy First, while your puppy may not love his crate right away, if properly introduced and used consistently, Labs usually come to love their crates. As den animals, dogs will view their crate as a den where they can go to sleep or get away from the business of the home. Learn more about crate training your Labrador puppy here. When using a crate to housetrain your puppy, you first want to make sure that you have a very small crate. One that is just a little bigger than your puppy. This is particularly important because you do not want your puppy to be able to move around much in the crate. If they can move around, they can and often will go potty in the crate. So, start with a very small crate and get bigger crates as the puppy grows. Whatever you choose to use to block off the larger area, make sure that it is not something your puppy can chew on or ingest. You will still need to find a way to gradually increase the area that the puppy has access to, so I just find the multiple crate solution easier. You should still set a timer and take your puppy out on a regular basis, and you will want to schedule some time each day for the puppy to run around the house and play while supervised. Step 4: Using praise to speed the house breaking process You can help your puppy more quickly understand that going potty outside is the right thing to do by giving your puppy well-timed praise. But the praise must be well-timed. You should give the praise while your puppy is going potty outside or immediately after. Timing is very important! Lots of people get upset when the dog goes inside but fail to praise when the dog does the right thing. Not all dogs are the same. Some puppies will whine just before they go potty in the house, or whine at the door when they need to go. Some will hide somewhere you cannot see them and do their business there. Still others may scratch at the door. How long can a puppy hold it overnight? With young puppies, weeks old, you will need to get up several times a night to let them out. It can be helpful to limit the amount of water your puppy has access to close to bedtime. We usually aim for every 3 hours and then steadily increase the time as they get older. But each puppy is different. Final thoughts on how to house train your Labrador puppy Remember that housebreaking is a process. It rarely follows a straight line and more often there will periods of success and occasional mishaps. Stick with it and before long your puppy will understand that going potty in the house is not okay. Until next time, happy retrieving. How to housebreak your Labrador puppy. Umbilical cord training Throughout the rest of this guide I will be referring to each of these 4 methods and when you should or could be using them. Once used to using the paper or the pads, you slowly cut the area covered until they reliably use just a couple of sheets and never miss. You then slowly move the paper toward the outside where another set is placed and you begin to encourage your puppy to go outside only, before completely removing the papers inside. At this point they will have made the transition. A top tip when paper training is when you clean away soiled paper, you should hold one piece back and place it as a middle layer of the new papers. Puppy pads have a scent that attracts a puppy, paper does not. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 3. This is confusing and will make the learning process take longer. Best suited to: Either people who are going to have an indoor bathroom spot long-term, or people who will not use a crate for training yet cannot commit to constantly supervising their puppy when inside the home. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, definitely a 5. But it does result in more mistakes from your puppy until later in life. Equipment needed: Nothing but stacks of old newspapers! A very cost-effective method. Description: The method takes advantage of the fact dogs have a natural instinct not to soil the area where they eat and sleep. Key to this is making the crate just large enough to stand in, turn around easily and lay down stretched out but no bigger. The rest of the time you watch them and regularly take them outside to potty to teach them good habits. Best suited to: Everybody! This is because you will have to crate train your puppy before you can use a crate for house training which does take time and effort. Click here for my free and detailed guide to crate training your puppy. Equipment needed: A suitable crate. I have a guide to help you select the right size and type that you can read by clicking here. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I tentatively give it a 3. It could actually score higher or lower depending on how committed you are and how successful at supervising your puppy you are. Best suited to: People who are against any kind of confinement and can stay at home to watch their puppy all day every day. Mostly people who work from home and the retired. But this method also forms a part of every house training plan, whether you use other methods alongside or not. This is because when a puppy is free inside a home, they MUST be closely supervised to prevent any mistakes. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 2. It scores low as it requires a lot of input from you as the owner. It is quite draining never being able to take your eye of your puppy. Equipment needed: None. Not a crate, newspapers, puppy pads or anything. The cheapest of all the methods…unless you put a price on your time. But it is highly effective. Description: This technique calls for you to tether your puppy to you by leash and have them follow you wherever you go when inside your home. You will notice and be able to intervene and correct every possible mistake, taking them outside every time they need to relieve themselves. Used correctly, the opportunity for your puppy to make mistakes is completely removed so every single time they need to visit their bathroom spot is a training opportunity you will take advantage of and no mistake goes uncorrected. Best suited to: People who spend all their time at home with their puppy and would also enjoy literally being tied to their pup all day. Further Info: for a detailed discussion of this technique, the benefits, downside, and many more tips, please see my article: Umbilical Cord House Training: What is It? How Does It Work? A Mix Of 3 Methods I use and recommend a mixture of crate training, constant supervision and paper training. I use constant supervision extensively because when a puppy is outside of the crate you have to watch them diligently to avoid puppy mistakes. Admittedly this is somewhat going against my advice because I always recommend to avoid paper training if possible. It encourages or allows your puppy to toilet inside the home, before then training them not to do so. This is confusing to your puppy and harmful to our house training efforts. But even though I recommend against it, using paper training ever so occasionally as a fall back plan works well for me. Most dogs love being outside and will use any excuse to get out there and stay there. You do this by using a cue word and walking them on leash to their potty spot, not allowing them to do anything else and if they do not potty, taking them back inside and trying again in a few minutes. Because a full bladder or bowel is uncomfortable, dogs are happy to relieve themselves, but some may try to hold it if they think they can get to stay outside and sniff around a while. If people use different words, your dog will get confused. This will slowly teach them the command. And this is fine for the first couple of weeks while they have no bladder control and will perform their business very quickly. And some dogs even learn to actively hold their bladder just so they can stay outside to explore for longer. Before you can do this you need to first get your puppy used to wearing a collar and leash. Have You Got Everything Prepared? A Check-list Before You Start Like everything in life, house training runs smoother if you have everything ready before you start, hopefully before you even bring your puppy home. Have you: Decided on and marked out a suitable bathroom spot? Chosen and purchased a suitable high-quality nutritious food? Figured out the times of day you will feed your puppy? Got a collar and leash? Put in place a leash training plan? Bought a suitable crate and set it up in a suitable place? Bought bedding for the crate? Bought chew toys to occupy your puppy in the crate? Decided on the commands you will use if any? Purchased either baby gates, a pet barrier or an exercise pen for longer term confinement? Sourced stacks of newspapers or puppy pads to use in the long-term confinement area? Bought some small but highly tasty training treats to use as a reward? Bought specialized pet stain removing and odor neutralizing cleaning products? Bought a UV light to find hidden spots of urine that must be removed to prevent repeat accidents? Sat and discussed with every member of your household your finalized plans so everybody has the same info? Successful House Training Is All About Schedules And Routine Dogs thrive when living to schedules and routine, doing best when they have set times for eating, going to toilet, exercise, training and play. But because the passage of food through their digestive system stays roughly the same, if you feed your puppy at the same times every day they will need to defecate at roughly the same times every day. This results in fewer mistakes, more opportunities to praise your puppy for going in the right place and so speeds up their learning. Depending on their age a puppy will need to poop 3 to 6 times a day, and wee many more times than that. Can these times be predicted? Mostly they can. When a puppy needs to potty depends on when they last ate, drank and their recent activities. Mostly they need to go: First thing in the morning The instant they wake up from a nap at any time of the day Just before going to bed Within a few minutes of eating or drinking Immediately after a play session Immediately after any excitement But a puppy also needs to go many times per day regardless of recent activities, so you should also take your puppy to their bathroom spot on a consistent schedule such as the following: At 8 weeks old — every 30 mins. At 10 weeks old — every 45 mins. At 12 weeks old — every 1 to 1. At 16 weeks old — every 2 hours. At 20 weeks old — every 3 hours. Some will need to wee within 2 minutes of drinking, others after 20 minutes. Some will need a bathroom break within 2 minutes of waking, others 15 minutes later. You have to determine your puppies own natural tendencies and create a schedule to suit. To achieve this, you need to follow this 5 step process: Feed them to a strict schedule. Decide on exercise, play and training times. Develop a schedule including feeding, exercise, play, training and all scheduled potty times. Use the information gathered in your diary to learn from any mistakes and adjust your schedule for the following week. The more you can stick to schedules and routines, the smoother and faster the process will be. But you can stray from the path when necessary and still find success, it will just take a little longer. You should feed your puppy 3 times a day when 12 to 26 weeks old. From 26 weeks old and onwards, feed your puppy just two times a day For 2 meals a day you need to space them out 8 to 12 hours apart. What works for me is shortly after I get up at and when we have our evening meal between PM and PM. Availability Of Water: You should make sure fresh water is always available but because drinking too much or too little can be a sign of health problems, you do need to monitor their water intake. Physical activity often leads to a puppy needing to potty very soon after. So to encourage predictable potty times for your puppy, you want to schedule their exercise and play. Deciding when to exercise, train and play with your puppy is entirely up to you. You should fit it around your lifestyle and commitments, but try to make it the same times each day if you can. Enter all the following details into a single column in an excel spreadsheet, or write them down as a day schedule with a pen and paper: When you wake and add an instant bathroom break before you do ANYTHING for yourself! Enter the times you will play with, train and exercise your puppy. Enter a scheduled visit to the bathroom spot after each of the activities listed in points 1 to 3. Add scheduled bathroom visits after any length of time longer than your puppy should be expected to hold it according to their age. Write in scheduled sleeps for your puppy, place them in the crate or confinement area. After writing down this schedule, tick off each task as you go through the day with your puppy. This way you will always know what needs to be done and when, and there will be no confusion about whether someone else in the house fed, exercised or took the puppy to the loo. I discuss this further in step 5 below. You should be able to pick up on any patterns and adjust your own behavior to avoid mistakes in future. Was puppy left alone and peed in the living room while you made breakfast? Puppy should never be left alone unsupervised, learn from this mistake. Or maybe puppy peed in the crate after an hour? Learn from this mistake. Well done for watching them closely enough. So increase the frequency. Therefore you should stretch out the time between visits by 10 to 15 minutes for the following day. This is how you find out. And Now House Training is So Much Easier By writing out the schedule as in step 3, you should never forget to feed, train or take your puppy to potty. And by using the schedule as a diary as in step 5, you get feedback on how you and your puppy are performing, and are armed with the necessary info to make changes to your schedule over time. You, your puppy and their needs all stay in sync and house training becomes that much easier. Just make a spreadsheet in excel and print it out, or simply buy some lined paper. Keep it somewhere you can always see and know where it is, alongside a pen or pencil and write entries in it as you watch your puppy throughout the day. After this, continuing with a diary every day is the best advice, although keeping one for 3 consecutive days each week will be sufficient for you to pick up on any changes as they mature. Once your puppy is 5 to 6 months old, they will have sufficient bladder control and experience to make a schedule and diary unnecessary. Just make sure they get access to the outside at least once every 3 hours and all will be fine. Extending The Time Between Toilet Breaks I discussed earlier how a puppy will need regular visits to their bathroom spot, something like every 30 minutes at 8 weeks old, every 45 minutes at 10 weeks old and so on. But every puppy is different and their progress in having longer time between needed toilet breaks will vary too. You do this because as a puppy grows, the size of their bowel and bladder increases, so they will be able to hold more for longer and you want to take advantage of this. This is also teaching them necessary bladder and bowel control. Use your cue word before you take them: By using your chosen cue word every time before you take them to potty, your puppy will learn what the trip is about and what they must do. This eventually leads to faster results as they know what is expected of them. Lead your puppy to the bathroom spot on leash: This gives you the ability to keep your puppy at the bathroom spot and prevent them wandering off, getting distracted and forgetting what they are there for. Make sure you stay with them at their bathroom spot: If you have them on leash, then of course you will be. When they start to go, say your chosen cue word in a soft warm voice. Mix up the reward between play, time off leash and a food reward to keep them guessing, but keep the food rewards to a minimum as what goes in must come out and random feeding promotes random elimination times! Many people pop out, stand for 1 minute and then come back in. Some people recommend to stay out there for 10, 15, 20 minutes, whatever it takes until they go, then praise profusely when they do. I recommend you give them 3 to 5 minutes, saying your cue word every 30 seconds or so but otherwise standing silently still just holding their leash so they cannot wander off. Take them back to their bathroom spot in 10 minutes or so. If using a crate for house training: Pop them back in the crate and leave them for 10 minutes. Then take them back to their bathroom spot. Take them to their bathroom spot after 10 minutes. If not, take them away from their bathroom spot and watch them for 10 minutes before returning them to their bathroom spot. And if crate training, do not leave them in the crate too long else they may be forced to soil in there. Prevent this at all costs. Rinse and repeat the visits to and fro like this until they do potty, then follow the next sections advice. What You Should Do Between Scheduled Bathroom Breaks Between scheduled bathroom visits you should do two things: Allow some supervised free time in your home, and use your chosen house training method. By free time I mean time outside of their crate, or off leash, or out of their confinement area. Time free to roam, explore and live life. When 10 weeks old they may need to toilet every 30 minutes, so they only get 5 to 10 minutes free time. When 12 weeks old, they may need to toilet every hour so they can get 35 to 40 minutes free time. You allow this free time because you are of course working toward a time when they will always be free and trusted unsupervised. To get there they need the experience, to get used to being free in your home and begin seeing it as a place they need to keep clean. They also need social interaction and life experiences. But what are the signs a puppy is about to potty? Heading toward, barking at or scratching the door to the outside. The minute you see any of these signs you should take your puppy to their bathroom spot immediately. There may well be some false alarms, but better safe than sorry. Carefully watch them and you should soon notice what body language means a wee or a poop is imminent. There will be recognizable signs. We do this because the time is fast approaching when mistakes are most likely to be made. If using constant supervision: Carry on as you are. Then at their scheduled potty time, attach a leash and lead them to their bathroom spot. If using a crate for house training: Encourage your puppy into their crate and close the door, leaving them there until their scheduled potty time and then release them, instantly attaching a leash and leading them to their bathroom spot. If using umbilical cord training: Attach a leash and tether your puppy to you, ready to react if they make moves to eliminate. Take them to their bathroom spot at the scheduled time. If paper training: Take your puppy to their confinement area where their papered bathroom spot is and supervise them, ready to intervene if they make moves to potty away from the paper. Not good when you need to be there to encourage them for doing it in the right place. If they do, you can pick them up and carry them, or take them by the collar and gently lead them to their bathroom spot, then encourage them to finish where they should. But to me this seems foolish. Instead of a little pile or puddle, you then have a long line of wee or poop from where you caught them all the way to the bathroom spot that you then have to deep clean instead. Then think how they were able to make such a mistake and tweak your plans so it cannot happen again. But any corrections or punishment now will be futile. House Training For Full Time Workers This advice applies not just to full-time workers , but also if you must occasionally leave your puppy home alone for a few hours. Most importantly, follow all the advice in this guide so far for the times that you are home. Supervise them, correct any mistakes, set feeding and elimination schedules and everything else I have advised. First of all, if like me you use a crate, you simply cannot leave your puppy in the crate for many hours. This is very unfair on your puppy and it will destroy the crates power as a house training tool if they lose the instinct to keep it clean. Secondly, please do your best to enlist the help of a family member, friend, neighbor or hire a dog walker to periodically pop in to visit your puppy, take them to their bathroom spot, give them some social interaction and so on. But I also freely admit to using paper training myself occasionally, for the unavoidable times I have to leave my puppy home alone for a few hours. If you have to leave your puppy home alone for any reason, usually because you work, then paper training in your absence is the only thing you can do. You then have two options available to you: Buy and use an exercise pen, or confine your puppy to a single, puppy-proofed room. As they get used to pottying on paper, reduce the area covered one sheet at a time until just a small area remains covered. Once you know your puppy can hold their bladder for longer than they have to be left alone, remove the paper altogether. By 16 to 20 weeks, they should be able to last the 3 or 4 hours max they will be left alone and somebody comes to exercise them and allow a bathroom break. Between 8 and 12 weeks when weeing seems spontaneous , my puppy spends a fair bit of time in there and I paper train them to use puppy pads. Our kitchen and dining room was separated by an arch where a door used to be, with tiled flooring, making it ideal. I used a baby gate across the arch between the kitchen and dining room, and initially covered the dining area with paper, over time reducing it to just two sheets with the puppy pad holder on top. The dining area is completely empty, with no furniture, nothing in there. Skirting boards, the corners of furniture items, anything within reach is a potential target for teeth and claws. My girlfriend works from home, we crate trained and we had no problem finding house sitters in an evening if we needed one, so we all but had things covered. But this is something you need to be mindful of. Whatever the reason, there just WILL be times you cannot supervise your puppy. The essence of house training is to prevent mistakes and praise your puppy heavily when they potty in the right place. If you cannot watch your puppy, the chances of them making a mistake go through the roof. So even if you choose to use a constant supervision method exclusively, you will still need to confine your puppy sometimes to a paper covered area just in case. I mean literally none at all. One minute they are trotting along, the next they are leaking. No warning signs for you, not even any warning signs for them. I recommend setting up an exercise pen with the entire area papered, or do as I do and confine them to a room with the entire area papered. Use this time to paper train them, to get them used to weeing on paper and gradually reduce the area because you will use this method if you ever have to leave them home alone during the next 4 or 5 months. They will sniff, circle and so on as I mentioned before. At this point you can now move on to using your chosen house training method. Start encouraging them to potty in the right place from the minute you get them home. So the good news is, even at 8 weeks they will be able to last 4 or so hours and you will only need to wake once during the night. Also, make sure to take them to their bathroom spot right before you go to bed so they can empty themselves. Then set an alarm for 4 hours after their bed time when you must get up and take them to their bathroom spot. No excuses, you simply must do this. If you find your puppy has soiled in this time, you should set the alarm for half an hour earlier the next night 3. After a few days of not having a night-time accident, set your alarm for 15 minutes later and increase the time by 15 minutes for each successful night they do not have an accident. If you find they make a mistake one night before you wake, set the alarm back half an hour, make sure they stay dry a few days and then increase 15 minutes nightly again. And by using this schedule, you strike a good balance between a couple of inevitable accidents while stretching out the time at a good pace to lasting a full night. If they soil their crate more than once in any given week, you may have to progress slower add 15 minutes every 2 or 3 days , or perhaps sleep them in a papered exercise pen or their confinement room. Maintaining their instinct to keep the crate clean is of utmost importance. What To Do At The Bathroom Spot At Night When you take them out at night, say your chosen cue word, take them straight to their bathroom spot, praise them gently when they finish their business but do not reward them with anything else. The last thing you want is to teach your puppy that during the night is a time for play or food treats! This will come back to haunt you in a big way and result in noisy sleepless nights. You want your puppy to learn that night-time is for sleeping and for nothing else. Do nothing else. Some will be able to last the whole night without a potty break at 10 weeks rarely , and some may not be able to at 15 weeks also rarely. But certainly by 16 weeks old your puppy will be able to last a 7 hour night without needing to potty if you do not feed them for 3 hours or provide water for 2 hours before bed time and allow them to empty themselves right before you lay down for the night. No Progress? If you are feeding, exercising, training and playing with your puppy to a schedule, and when you look at your diary there seems to be no pattern to the times they need to potty, you should seek the advice of your vet. Common ailments such as gastroenteritis, urinary tract infection and health issues affecting internal organs and the genitalia can lead to a dog needing to potty much more frequently, often leading to eliminating in the house. Again, seek the advice of your family vet. You cannot successfully house train a puppy who is ill because their bodily functions will be too unpredictable. But 6 to 7 months is the ball park figure to aim for. A single mistake in the home can cause a major setback. A puppy may not make a mistake for 2 weeks, then you give them too much freedom, they make a mistake and all of a sudden they are regularly trying to potty in the home again. Also, some puppies just seem to forget everything for a few days now and then while growing up, even after being perfect for a couple of weeks. Just stick to your plan and they WILL eventually get it. Conclusion With house training, the fewer mistakes you allow your puppy to make and the more they are rewarded for doing the right thing, the quicker they will learn and the faster you will find success. Because of this, the more effort you put in and the more time you spend with your puppy at the beginning — supervising to correct mistakes and taking them to their bathroom spot many times each day — the better. But there are many other things you can do to help yourself and your puppy to find success. This guide has provided you with all the theory, strategies, tips and tricks you will ever need to successfully house train your puppy as quickly and efficiently as possible, with the fewest mistakes along the way. Please see the entire series linked to below:. Labrador house training routines. We want them to learn to wait until they are outdoors before emptying their bladder or bowels. It is about maturity too. We need to understand that tiny puppies have immature bodies and are not physically capable of waiting very long. On your side There are two factors on your side in the potty training process. When it comes to bladder control, fortunately your puppy improves with every day that passes, so this factor does not work against you forever. The same applies to the fact that the puppy has been removed from his nest, he will soon learn to accept his new nest. The principles of puppy potty training The puppy is learning the principle of extending the nest area, which he keeps clean instinctively, to include your entire home. Punishment is counter-productive in this process as it teaches the puppy to avoid emptying himself in your presence. Rewards are helpful, but given the right routine, a puppy will naturally learn to be clean without them. The secret to successful house training lies in selecting targets that the puppy can achieve. If your puppy sometimes needs to wee every 15 minutes whilst he is awake and active, you will have to take him outside every 15 minutes. Restricted access Start small applies here too. Allow your puppy access only to a small part of your home. Increase the area he has access to, only when he is capable of keeping the current area clean. Just because he can. And because the sensation of a filling bladder is a new one. Your job is to teach him to wait a little longer. You do this by confining him for a short time, every time his bladder fills. You can confine him in his nest within a crate , or in your arms. He will be reluctant to wee in either location. If he wets himself, you have waited too long! It takes two You need to go outside with your puppy, and stay out there with him, each time he needs to wee. A tiny puppy is unlikely to empty himself on his own. This especially applies in cold or wet weather. Routines Matter When House Training a Labrador Retriever Based around these practical requirements you can create your own house training routine. For a puppy that needs to wee every half an hour, it will go something like this Take puppy outside to the toilet area and wait with him until he empties himself Bring him indoors and allow him free access to your kitchen for fifteen to twenty minutes Crate or cuddle the puppy until it is thirty minute since his last wee Take the puppy back out to the toilet area If at any time the puppy does not empty himself then confine him for another ten minutes and try again. As soon as he is regularly not needing to wee after thirty minutes you can extend the duration of free access to your kitchen. Provided you stick to these principles and strategies, the house training process, though quite intense for a short while, will pass smoothly. Time to start potty training your Labrador Puppy Potty training or house training is one of the first things that you will have to focus on after bringing home a Labrador Puppy. However, you must know what to expect when toilet training a Lab puppy, you must be prepared with patience and dedication since house training can be difficult in the beginning. Here are the house-training basics that you will need to follow to train your puppy. House training is done over time, and here is how. You can also take your puppy into your yard if you have one. Teaching your lab puppy go potty in the yard is the best idea since Labradors produce a lot of waste when they are grown. If you live in an apartment you have no other option but to take your Lab outside to evacuate. Lab puppies love to go outside and explore new territories. So for apartment dwellers, the first months of potty training will happen indoors. Puppies can refuse to go potty on surfaces that they are not used to. For example, if your puppy gets used to evacuating on hard floors, going potty in the grass will feel awkward to your puppy, and will prefer to do it on the sidewalk. So, using an artificial grass puppy pad while you potty train your Lab indoors can help to transition to real grass when your puppy is ready to explore the outside world. How to toilet train a Labrador Retriever Puppy Keep an eye on your puppy for signs like circling, sniffing, and scratching the floor. This means that your puppy needs to potty. Take your puppy outside or to the designated potty place in your house or apartment. This will help your dog know that is the place to go do the thing. If the activity is successful praise your puppy for doing a good job. You can also give your Lab puppy a treat for doing a good job, Labs are a food-motivated breed, so yummy treats help a lot with training. Positive reinforcement will help your Labrador to go potty in the right place. Limiting the movement of your puppy will make it easier to keep an eye on during this process. Consider using baby gates to close an area of your house. The area must be big enough so that your puppy can move and play inside. It should be close to your yard or the area of your house where you want your Lab to go potty. Also, this area must be easy to clean, you can expect accidents in this part of the potty training. Then take the puppy to the potty place and let it finish there. Do not scare the puppy if you catch it in the act, the goal is to get its attention and let it know that it is not doing the right thing. This is something you must teach your dog. Do it patiently and be consistent with the training and eventually, you will get your Labrador fully house-trained. Use some white vinegar diluted in water or an enzymatic odor remover to thoroughly clean the area. For this period, you might need the following items to begin potty training your Labrador puppy. Make sure they are all pet-friendly and of a reputable brand name. Absorbent pee pad : Dog training pads mostly come in handy in the first stages of house training, before your puppy can go potty outside. The benefit of a pad is that the mess your puppy makes will be confined to just one place and it will be easier for you to clean up. Stain Remover : As a routine, accidents are bound to happen. And this is why having a good cleaner is extremely important. Along with a pet, cleaner make sure you also have ample small towels on hand. Dog poop bag and Pooper scooper : Having these is also very important. They will come in handy when you have to pick up and discard the mess your little friend makes. You can carry these in your bag or even in your pocket when you go out on a walk with your dog. Treats: Many dogs are motivated by food, and this is why you will need food treats that your Labrador puppy enjoys. After your dog listens to your commands and goes to the right place, give him a treat, so he understands that food comes after he goes to the right place. A leash and collar: This will allow you to show your dog where the right place is. Barrier gates : This is also an essential supply as it will confine your dog to a specific place. Barrier gates make it easier to keep your house floors clean. Pee finder : Finding and cleaning dried pee will help prevent future accidents. You might also want a car seat cover in case you have to travel somewhere with your little friend. An artificial grass pad to train your puppy for the outside. When to start house training your Labrador puppy: On a general note, younger Labrador puppies have very short attention spans. At what age should a lab puppy be potty trained? House training should begin as soon as your Lab puppy arrives at your home. Which is normally at 7 to 9 weeks of age. So, if your little Labrador puppy is a few weeks old, you might begin with basic command words to get familiar with the house routine and also your voice. You can use this time to show your new Lab puppy the areas of your house it is allowed to be in, and close off any part of your house that is off-limits to your dog. The best moments to train your Lab puppy are: After a nap.

When you bring a new puppy home, it's important to keep feeding it the same food that it has been eating at its previous home. The AKC advocates for the responsible ownership of dogs and promotes purebred dog events, such as the Westminster Dog Show. Go to source Talk to the person or organization that you are adopting your puppy from to see what food they are feeding it. They should willingly provide that info and they may even send you home with some if you can't find any to buy. If you can't find the right food in your local pet supply store, consider ordering it online. However, you would need to order it ahead of time so that you have it on hand when the puppy comes home. If you want to feed your puppy a different food from what it has been eating, you will need to switch its food over the course of several days. Feed that mix for several days. Finally, you can give the puppy all new food. If you are content to give your puppy the food it was originally eating, it's fine to do that. Every puppy will have different nutritional needs. Because of this, it's a good idea to discuss proper nutrition with your vet. They can suggest great foods to give your puppy and how much it should be eating. Go to source The right portion size depends on the size of your puppy and its metabolism. Ask your vet to teach you how to body score your puppy. This will allow you to do a quick visual check to see whether your puppy is losing or gaining weight. Tip: If your vet suggests a specific food but doesn't tell you how much to give your puppy, follow the instructions on the packaging. Doing 3 or 4 feedings per day allows your puppy to get enough nutrients without overwhelming its digestive system with a huge amount of food at once. This is especially important when your puppy is under 6 months old, as they have delicate systems. Go to source Don't just leave the food out all day. Take the food away after the puppy eats for about 10 or 15 minutes. Lab puppies should always have access to fresh water so that they can stay adequately hydrated. Put out a dish of water and dump it out, clean the dish, and refill it daily. Some puppies are really messy with their water dishes. To prevent a mess, try putting the water dish on a tray, so that spilled water won't go right onto the floor. Top Picks For Our Dogs Preparing Your Home For A Puppy You should treat the preparation of your home for the arrival of a new puppy in much the same way as you would for the arrival of a baby because the process is almost identical. You must be ready to provide every little thing your puppy needs in life, making sure they have water, are fed, comfortable, happy, catered for and safe. To achieve this there are 4 main things that you need to do: Go shopping for equipment and supplies Puppy proof your home and garden to make sure your puppy stays safe Set up an area for your puppy to sleep and spend time in when you cannot supervise them Decide on the rules and routines required to successfully raise a puppy Without such preparation, things will be difficult. A Nutritious Puppy Food The most important supply needed for a new puppy is a highly nutritious puppy food. Hopefully your puppy came from a responsible breeder who was feeding them a high quality, complete and nutritious food. If so, you should ask what they were feeding, stock up on and continue feeding this if possible. If not, then puppies are incredibly active, growing fast and developing bone, muscle and more every day. Because of this they need almost double the calories, more protein and have different nutritional needs to mature adult dogs. Furthermore, they have far smaller mouths than adult dogs so puppy food comes in smaller chunks more suited to their size. Click here to see our recommendations for the best puppy food for labs Bowls for Food And Water There is a bewildering array of dog bowl choices out there so choosing the best can be difficult. Looks and design aside, I recommend going for stainless steel bowls because they are long-lasting, cannot be chewed and are very easy to clean. I also recommend buying bowls with heavy rubber bottoms so they stay rooted to the spot and are harder to spill or flip over. Unless of course you buy bowls in a stand, then these problems are already solved. A Puppy Crate And Bedding A good crate is one of the most beneficial things you can provide for the good of yourself and your puppy. First of all, supply some bedding to place inside for your puppy to sleep on. My recommendation for this is VetBed. Many puppies can chew and ingest normal bedding which can result in medical emergencies and VetBed is the most durable bedding on the market. During these times you need to provide a larger, but still safe enclosure to confine your puppy. You might also like to buy a plastic sheet and some puppy pads or use lots of old newspaper for them to use as a potty in your absence. Puppy Chew Toys Puppies chew. A lot. And they seem to prefer chewing phones, footwear and TV remotes more than anything else. Just make sure whatever toys you do buy are suitable for a puppy as many will be too large for their little mouths to begin with. Interactive Puppy Toys So you can play games with your puppy, provide exercise and mental stimulation, you will want to buy a few toys that encourage the two of you to interact. Balls for throwing and chasing, soft toys and ropes for playing tug, other toys for fetch, there are many available. You will also need a collar to provide a place to attach an all important ID tag. ID Tag An ID tag is an essential means to be reunited with your puppy should the worst happen and you somehow lose them or they run away. Clicker A clicker is an extremely useful tool used during training as a reward marker that dramatically improves the timing of communication between you and your puppy when you want to reward a behavior. Although not essential, I do highly recommend you use one. Puppy Training Treats Tasty food treats are the go-to reward used during training so you will want to make sure you always have a good stock at hand. They need to feel happy with being bathed, happy having their coat and teeth brushed, their feet touched, nails clipped and having their eyes and ears inspected. To do so, you should fake going the process, getting them used to being handled, the sight and feel of the tools and so on. To achieve this, you will need to buy and get them used to the following items: Dog shampoo Combs and brushes suitable for a Labrador Scissors Cotton balls Toothbrush Use these tools right away and often, and give your puppy praise and tasty treats as you go so they form positive associations with grooming. Puppy Proof Your Home and Garden The process of puppy proofing your home is very much like baby proofing before the arrival of a child. Except a puppy is far more curious, active and destructive and can get themselves into far more trouble. A puppy is a new-born. Everything is a toy and they will run and pounce and jump and chew on anything in their environment. So before you bring your puppy home you simply must make it safe for them. For things you cannot move skirting boards, table legs etc. To keep them safe while still providing an area for them to play in and stretch their legs, you want to restrict their access to a single room, or otherwise create an enclosed space for them. To do so, either buy a pet barrier or baby gate that goes across a doorway to restrict them to an easy to clean and safe room, or buy an exercise pen puppy pen to create an enclosed space in another room. I also strongly recommend buying a crate for many reasons, but initially, mostly just to provide the perfect place for them to sleep. I shall discuss crate training a little later in this article. All of this must be decided BEFORE you get your puppy home because consistency is a key part of raising a puppy successfully. Everyone must enforce and live by the same rules for your puppy to thrive. Initially they have no idea how you want them to behave, or how and when they can expect the things they want and need in life. The more consistent everybody is with the puppy, the quicker they will learn all this stuff and the happier everyone will be. So decide and write down if necessary when your puppy will have all their needs met, make sure everybody knows who is responsible for each task and make sure everybody knows the rules. You might think the collection and journey home with your new puppy is no big deal, but there are many things can go wrong. Therefore, you should never take a puppy before 8 weeks old. During the first 8 weeks, a puppy learns a lot from their mother and litter-mates: Bite inhibition, canine body language, acceptable play and interaction with other dogs and how to accept discipline. Things you will find it very hard to teach them later yourself. The flip side of this is that the 7 to 14 week stage is the most impressionable for a puppy, where they bond strongest with people and must be socialized to all the sights, sounds and smells of the world so they grow up confident and comfortable with their surroundings. So anyway, for the journey home there a few things you need to consider: Safety in the car, the need for water and toilet breaks and the possibility your puppy will be sick. Having a loose puppy in the car presents a very real danger of leading to a crash, they can easily climb out of a box and now is not the time to use a harness and car safety belt. If the crate is small enough you can place it on a front or rear passenger seat and secure it with the seat-belt, or you may have to place it in the trunk of your car. Fully line the crate with absorbent paper in case there are any accidents, this will keep most of the mess off your puppy and make cleaning easier. And finally, place a chew toy or two in the crate to keep your puppy occupied. If you have another person to help you, your puppy can ride home in their lap if the journey is short. They must be under your passengers control. They will also need to potty every half or so. Therefore, you should plan breaks along the way every 30 minutes or so. Stop the car, allow them to drink, then wait for them to wee before setting off again. When you stop, make sure your puppy is on leash and tightly held by someone before letting them out of the car. And as an extra precaution, carry your puppy and only put them down to do their business, then carry them back into the car. Take with you some towels, plastic bags, kitchen roll and deodorizer to take care of any accidents. And when driving, take all corners slowly, and accelerate and brake gently. If your puppy is on a passengers lap, they will be able to see some warning signs that puppy is about to be sick: Their lips will curl, they will excessively salivate and then eventually start to heave. When your passenger spots these signs, they can place a thick towel beneath the puppy to catch everything and avoid a mess in your vehicle. When bringing home a new puppy, make sure you collect them and then drive straight home. Your puppy is having the most stressful day of their short life so far, try not to make it harder than it already is by taking them to strange places and passing them around to strangers to say hello. You want to get them home quickly so they can start the process of settling in as soon as possible. Whether this is inside on paper, or a spot outside, as soon as you arrive home carry them there, set them down and wait for them to do their business before doing anything else. This might take 30 seconds or it might take 10 minutes, but patiently wait and when they go, praise them profusely. Well done! Shut them in another room away from the puppy as things are intense enough as it is. Explain they have to be calm and gentle during the first introductions. Let them sniff and look around, getting used to the area and their new little world. You can now let people come and say hello. Have people sit or kneel to greet them. Once everybody has said hello, you should stay with your puppy, show interest but stay calm. Allow Your Puppy To Sleep After all the excitement, stress, massive change and huge amount of mental stimulation your puppy has just been through, they will likely need to sleep soon after arriving at your home. So as soon as they either start to look tired, or the introductions to their new living space and family have ended whichever comes first put them to bed for a short while. On the other hand they might feel completely overwhelmed, retreat into themselves and show reluctance to explore. They might slink into a corner silently and sit there watching their new world with wonder but apprehension, before falling asleep for hours. And when it comes to the first night they might sleep right through, or they might cry and whine the whole night. As your puppy begins to get used to everything, their character will start to shine through and you will begin to see their true personalities. Exactly what this will be is different for every puppy…it will be fun for you to find out! And by being the provider of everything they need in life, giving them all that is good, it will only take 2 or 3 days for your puppy to learn to love you and get excited and happy to see you when you turn up. So your task is to set up and stick to these schedules, begin training your puppy and help them to learn how you want them to behave and when they can expect the things they need in life. What should you feed your puppy You should feed your puppy the same food they had at the breeders because an abrupt change in diet almost always leads to stomach upset. Complete and balanced means it has everything a puppy needs, and in the right quantities. So seek out this kind of wording and check the internet for other owners reviews. Puppies need to eat a lot because their rate of growth is very high. For puppies up to 12 weeks, you should divide their daily requirement into 4 portions, for puppies 12 to 26 weeks, feed them 3 times per day and from 26 weeks on feed them twice per day. You should also aim to feed them as close as you can to the same times every day and evenly spaced throughout the day. This will help their body clocks fall into a pattern and will help your house training immensely because they then potty the same times every day. For example: 8 to 12 weeks old, 4 times a day at AM, AM, PM and PM 12 to 26 weeks old, 3 times a day at AM, PM and PM 26 weeks old and ongoing, 2 times a day at and Obviously you can adjust these times to take into account when you get out of bed and to fit around your life. Also… The first few nights have the crate or exercise pen your puppy sleeps in placed in your bedroom. One night move the crate next to the bedroom door. The next night move it outside the door, but leave the door open so they can still see you. The next night further into the hallway. Finally to their eventual resting place. They might take to sleeping on their own OK, they might whine and cry. NEVER go to them to comfort them if they cry, you must only get up to take them to potty and then silently and without fuss put them back into the crate. Rewarding silence and ignoring noise is the only way they will eventually learn to be quiet at night themselves. Any time you cannot closely supervise them, you have to confine them, either in their crate, an exercise pen or a puppy proofed room secured with a barrier across the doorway. The point of confining them as a puppy is so they can enjoy all the freedom in the world once they are an adult. By confining them with treat dispensing chew toys they get rewarded for chewing the right things and develop a chew toy obsession. Confine them now, they form a good chew toy obsession and have no chance of developing bad chewing habits. Then once they are over their adolescent chewing stage you slowly open up the house to them and eventually they can have free roam and be completely trusted. A little sacrifice when young for a better life later. And a second hugely important reason for confining your puppy when you cannot supervise them is for speedier house training. In fact if you read my comments from earlier, you will see you start the very first moment you finish the journey home. In essence, house training is about creating good habits while avoiding bad ones and for the speediest success you want to start immediately. Wherever your puppy is able to potty has the chance of becoming their favored toilet spot for many weeks or months to come. So you want to prevent them pottying inside, and encourage them to potty outside. The main ingredients of a successful house training program are preventing mistakes and praising heavily for doing the right thing. Achieving this is all about schedules, supervision and confinement. Now, your puppy will need to potty anywhere from every 15 to 45 minutes. So to start with, take them outside every 30 minutes and adjust this schedule to suit their natural rhythm. You must also take them outside immediately after they wake up from any sleep, after any eating or drinking, after play and after any heightened excitement. These are times that often lead to a puppy needing to potty so take them outside at these times and you will avoid many mistakes while taking advantage of predictable opportunities to praise them for doing the right thing. In the first week or so, you will likely find your puppy almost instantaneously leaks with little warning. Simply do your best to take them out to potty extremely often so they go in the right place as often as possible. And confine them to a single enclosed room or in an exercise pen for the first week or so to protect your carpets. Crate training goes hand in hand with house training, being one of the best tools to help speed up the process. Therefore, you want to start crate training very early on, after just a few days of getting puppy home, and I personally aim for 9 weeks old to start. I prefer to wait a week or so to avoid them pottying in the crate as much as possible, doing the most I can to preserve their instinct not to soil where they sleep, the instinct that helps most when using a crate for house training. But by all means sleep them in their crate at night if you wish and I do. For more information on crate training your puppy and using it for house training purposes, please see the links below:. How does it feel to be a new puppy parent? You must be chuffed. Take a look at these first few articles. All the ingredients you need for a happy home. But for now, beside your bed is the best place for your puppy to sleep — it will help them feel safe. Puppies like their crates rather cave-like; we suggest covering it with a blanket to block out light, but keep the front open so that they can see outwards. Make sure to make it snug inside with something like a vet bed or a blanket, or why not take it up a notch with a heat pad or hot water bottle to recreate the feeling of their mother. Nothing feels more comforting than that. Before you head to bed, take your puppy out for one last round of loo-going. Set your bedtime at a later time too — midnight sounds about right. Come back calmly, and place your puppy in the crate and turn out the light. Stuff you should know about Sleep Training your Labrador Your puppy will wake up several times in the night and will need the bathroom at least once! Be prepared for not-so-deep sleeps and tired mornings — just for the first few weeks. Having them sleep next to you is only temporary. Consistency is key! As for you, full nights of sleep will start getting closer and closer. Alone Training How can I teach my Labrador puppy to be ok on their own? Start by feeding your puppy in their crate during meal times. If they seem worried by you leaving, stay in view, and just pop right outside their confinement area. Keep it short and sweet: No need to stay away for long, 60 seconds tops will do for now. Repeat: Do this at least once a day to make progress go steady and smoothly. Socialization Exercises To Do this week Letting your Labrador puppy explore the yard Besides the gnomes and questionable yard furniture you may have, letting your puppy explore your own yard is a great and safe way to start showing them the sounds, lights and wonders of the outside world. Exploring different surfaces exercise Make sure that the surfaces you use are safe — nothing too crazy just yet. Gather surfaces such as An oven tray with a small layer of water A piece of astro turf A carpet tile A large piece of tin foil, cardboard or something crinkly PRO TIP: Set up for this exercise in the room your puppy spends most of their time in — it will help them to feel safe and confident. Pop the surfaces out safely on the floor and allow your puppy to investigate them. Nobody has ever enjoyed walking on those. Remember to be patient! Lucky for you — teaching them their name is easy peasy. Say their name in a happy jolly tone and reward with a treat. Repeat five times, 5 and take a break. Practice this 2 or 3 times a day so they get the hang of it. Teach your puppy to sit Teaching your puppy how to sit is a popular one. The first two are far more common though. Keep using this word when they do the right thing, and then follow it up with a food reward. In puppy logic, stinky means yummy. How to do it Start at home; where there are no distractions. Just make sure to shut off Gogglebox in the background. Recall — How to teach our Labrador puppy to come back when called Your puppy already knows their name at this point, so this should be a walk in the park. How to do it Treats and a cheerful voice will be what works here. Do these exercises before meal times so your puppy is more motivated. Practice this 5 times a day and in 3 different places in your house and yard to get them used to coming to you in all settings. How to do it Show your puppy that you have their favorite toy, and start to get them excited about it. When they show interest, throw it a little bit away from you. They will likely follow it and pick it up. If they do, encourage them back to you with your voice, so remember to sound happy! Swap the toy for a treat or another toy and do the process again. Repeat this about 5 times. Instead create more distance and excitement sounds to get them to come to you — spaniels like to show off, so they will likely want to parade what they have! Always swap the toy for something when they have it, this could be a treat or another toy. Resource guarding occurs when we force puppies to give up items or snatch things out of their mouths. For breeds like Labradors who are designed to want to hold things in their mouths, this is pretty important! Resource guarding is when a dog protects a resource from being taken by someone else — dog or human. For some reason, there is a solid list of things puppies find irresistible: Socks. However, a healthy six-month-old labrador will grow significantly in size. Some of them can weigh up to 50 pounds. For a more balanced diet at six months, you can shift from feeding your puppy three smaller meals per day to two meals a day. To counteract this, you can drop the amount of food and gradually increase it. Setting Your Lab Puppy Up for Successful Potty Training Training an animal to control their bladders until you get outside is no different than potty-training for toddlers. In other words, crate training speeds up the potty-training process for your pet. Effective crate training depends on two things: Praising and rewarding your puppy for relieving itself outside. They come to understand this as a desirable behavior. Preventing your puppy from going to the toilet within the home. So, why is using a crate to train your puppy to go outside so effective? Initially, this should be every hour or so. As labs grow older, you can reduce the frequency as they learn to hold and release independently. Step 2: House Training a Lab Puppy Housetraining or potty-training small labs can be, well, frustrating. As a pet owner, there are simple ways to train your puppy to understand ideal behavior quickly. Instead, they simply forget that they should control it. This helps avoid any issues early on. Keep small labrador puppies off the carpet. How to Feed Your Dog for Optimal Growth Feeding your labrador puppy a balanced diet could be an entire guide all on its own. It can feel overwhelming because you do have many options when it comes to feeding your dog. For example, if you work from home, it would be easy to feed your dog homemade dog food. Similarly, you might work a and yet want to reap the health-related benefits of a raw diet. Make sure to speak to your vet first. You do have choices for what to feed your puppy and you can mix and match these. Popular feeding options for any animal include kibble, wet food, raw food, and home-cooked food. Remember, a puppy is still growing, and they need a complete profile of nutrients and minerals to support their development. There are many commercial brands of dry food or kibble to choose from and you can adjust what you buy based on the ingredients. Do your research and find a brand you trust, with as much bioavailable nutritional content as is helpful. These can harm your puppy. In order to maintain good health and prevent simple ailments, your puppy can also benefit from taking a supplement. Some families choose to mix scraps or raw food with kibble to provide moisture and decrease the amount of food versus the calories consumed. Any veterinarian will tell you that a hard and fast rule is not necessarily the type of food but the amount. Obesity is a condition that can lead to many health issues for this breed. Over-exertion, especially for a puppy, is possible. This includes activities like playing fetch or tug and release. However, breeds that worked as a hunting companion for humans love to be active. Again, this goes back to the strengths of the breed. Keeping up with your puppy could be a task-and-a-half, so in the first months of life, you should be keeping them in your backyard or playing with them at home. As they become house trained and get all their vaccinations, you can turn walks into light jogs or runs if you want. In the long-term, exercise will help keep dogs healthy and disease-free. However, early dog training can eliminate common problems with puppy temperament and help make sure that your fur friend is always as friendly and happy as possible through the years. Puppy socialization simply means making your puppy open to and familiar with new experiences. You want to provide stimulation and encounters with experiences that they will probably face as adults. The window of opportunity to make sure your puppy is always a happy and friendly pooch closes around 14 weeks. Pre-Vaccination Lab Puppy Socialization Any veterinarian will tell you that a puppy is all done with their vaccinations after 12 weeks of age. The main point is to keep your puppy away from other dogs who may not yet be vaccinated or the excrement and markings of other animals that could carry data diseases. You can head to an off-leash dog park to allow them to explore and meet other fur friends. You can also take them beyond your backyard to the countryside to enable them to swim or set up obstacle courses and play with them. Another thing that people forget about is spaying or neutering their dogs. Spaying or neutering your dog could help with behavioral issues and can also reduce the onset of certain health conditions. At the same time, spaying or neutering a puppy too early may also lead to health issues. For many people, this is a worthwhile and even enjoyable trade-off. A happy, sociable dog is always the result of consistent training. Training your dog is a significant aspect of their early years. The different stages include: Get it — Using positive reinforcement, trainers will help your dog carry out actions without commands. Teach it — This stage harnesses the progress you made in the previous stages. Your dog now knows the word and the action that goes with it. Proof it — Proofing is where many people get stuck. Your dog will learn to listen and obey commands at this stage even when they are engaged in other things. Maintain it — Consistently using the techniques you learned to keep your dog following the same desirable behavior. All breeds of dogs respond best when you train them. Every labrador retriever relies on their human taking control and showing them how to respond in any situation. You can be sure that if you follow these tips that you will be taking proper care of your new puppy and will be able to make sure that your puppy will live a long and healthy life. Share on. Labrador Retriever pups are working dogs. This means they live to please you for a treat. The more you engage them with different puppy training behaviors the happier they will be. Of course, Labs will be Labs, and this means that dogs do dog things unless they are trained to follow your expectations. Potty training your puppy is just the beginning of you making clear expectations for your Lab. Puppy training from long leash training to potty training, to not nipping is discussed in greater detail along with clear, easy to follow videos at www. But we will give you an expert training tip summary below. For this reason, you need to become an expert on puppy training. Contact us for a discount on the Puppy Trained Right positive reinforcement training program. Expose your puppy to as many different people and situations possible. Teach dog to dog manners when required. Use Positive Reinforcement. Allow for Play with Other Puppies. Play with other Lab Puppies not only allows your pup to get some exercise it is a form of puppy socialization. Bond with your Puppy. Once a strong bond is formed your Lab Puppy will want to please you even more. Potty Train Right Away. Learn how Dogs Learn. Training a Lab puppy is easy if you understand how to go about it. Give your Lab Puppy Play time to Explore. Labs need this as part of their natural development. Spend more time with your puppy when young. This is the time when your expectations should be clearly outlined and can decrease as she gets older. Begin Training day 1. This happens weather or not you intend it to. Every action and reaction is something your puppy uses to form new habits. So ignoring them jumping up as an 8 week old puppy is training them to jump up and will be much more difficult to un-train once they are 70 lbs. Relax and make learning fun. Your pup needs you happy and enjoying yourself! Use Positive Training Methods because they work. This means reward what you desire. Ensure most Experiences are Positive. Imagine a training session of No, No, No, No! Expose them to as Many Human Situations possible. One cause is that there was not adequate socialization with different men. Be Patient. You are building an amazing K9 personality. The window is between 8 and 20 weeks old. Make the most of it. The better your Lab is socialized the happier they will be. Anxiety in dogs comes from many things. The more things your dog is comfortable with the less chance for anxiety and therefore the happier they are. Prepare yourself, your family and your home before your puppy comes home. It is too late once you meet your puppy as simply interacting with her is training. Allow for Safe Experiences both in the home and outside. Seek professional trainers to help guide you when faced with a problem. Be consistent. Clear expectations are easiest to learn. Focus on Guiding not controlling. Best Start Training or Training Classes are beneficial for both you and your puppy. Expect Success. We tend to move in the direction we believe we will travel. Reward the Behaviors you want to see even something as simple as 4 paws on the ground if you are trying to train your Lab not to jump up on you. Become Well informed. You are teaching a skill like reading that takes clear expectations and builds upon last session. Lab Puppies need constant supervision either human, a crate, a fenced area or a baby gate across a doorway. Encourage a soft mouth. Keep your training up or it will be forgotten. Begin Walking on a Loose Leash Right away. This is always easier for your Lab when they are 12 lbs not 70lbs. Change direction before the leash tightens so they are followers not leaders. This is much easier to train before it happens than correct. Allow alone time for your Lab. Know when to end a training session. End training before your puppy quits. Make time for a few shorter training Sessions. Three fifteen minute sessions are better than one 45 min one. Teach your Lab to respond to their name. Teach your Labrador basic obedience before tricks-come, sit, stay, down, leave it. Have all humans learn the commands and be consistent. Ignore undesirable behaviors. Ignoring includes not saying no, bad dog, touching your dog or making eye contact. Find rewards that your Retriever loves and use them when you have breakthrough training moments. Adjust your expectations as your Lab puppy matures, the older more experienced the higher the expectation. Set Realistic Expectations. Minimize distractions when you begin training. Be aware of your Body Language, Labradors pick up cues from you. Be aware of your leash tension. A tight leash says anxiety from the handler. Know when to get Help .Have fun! Understand that Labs do Lab things. Make them work for food and treats. Exercise your Retriever properly for both intensity and duration. Learn some exercise games Labs love. Give lots of repetition. Stop before they get bored. Establish a Pattern by Praising. Redirect undesired behavior. Accept partial actions at first and gradually increase your expectations. When treats end Verbal treats and chin scratches rule. They will know. Enjoy your well balanced purebred Lab puppy for many years. Purebred Lab Retrievers, are they easier to train? The answer to that is definitely maybe! Not all purebreds are bred for intelligence. For example, if a Labrador Retriever breeder chooses to breed their dogs for a certain look then they may overlook intelligence as one of the important characteristics in order to get a specific Lab look. We however breed for intelligence, health and temperament. So in our case, yes, our Purebred Lab Puppies are easier to train than many because we choose the parents and their puppies specifically for their smarts!

Photo from: miss. Hybrid breeds are crossbreeds of two purebred dogs that are, essentially, of a different breed. Labradoodles come in several sizes, depending on their Poodle parent. You can find standard Labradoodles, micro Labradoodles, and even rare teacup Labradoodles! They also come in several dozen coat colors and patterns. Why is that? Its parents are the Labrador, which comes in three standard colors, and the Poodle, which is bred in ten coat variations. When you multiply these, you get an almost infinite number of combinations. Golden Labradoodle This is a pretty standard color for this breed. As the apricot color was the last to be recognized as a standard shade for Poodles by the AKC, it probably originated from mixing blue, silver, and dark brown genetic traits for fur pigments. The same can happen with golden Labradors, as well. This usually includes their nose, eyes, eye rims, and toenails. Sometimes, their nose can also be brown. These cute little dogs resemble teddy bears and look more like a toy than anything else. Apricot Doodles tend to become lighter as they grow older. In fact, a golden Labradoodle puppy might, later on, be confused with the cream Labradoodle since their color fades that much. Cream Labradoodle If your pooch picked up more features from their Labrador parent, some people might not even believe you when you say he is a Labradoodle! For example, you can find cream shadings in the merle Labradoodle, parti Labradoodle, or the phantom Labradoodle. They can have both dark and light noses, various eye shades, and even light toenails. However, most cream Labradoodles have fairly pinkish skin under their bright coats. In fact, the possibilities for this shade are so great that you will hardly struggle to find two same dogs in this coat color. Red Labradoodle This shade looks quite similar to the mahogany hair color in humans. Red Labradoodles are relatively rare, as the shade is inherited via recessive genes. Also, neither Poodles nor Labrador Retrievers come in red — not if the AKC acknowledges them as there are red Poodle varieties out there. Because of this, they can be quite challenging to find. While the exact fur shade is more of a very dark golden, breeders prefer calling these dogs red as they are easily distinguished from other colors. Red Labradoodles are usually bred as the offspring of a dark-colored Poodle with a cream or tan Labrador. Black Labradoodle Another standard color for Labradoodles, the black shade is typically the result of crossbreeding a black Poodle and a chocolate Labrador. Unlike Goldendoodles, Labradoodles often come in pure black color. This is because both the Poodle and the Labrador can come in dark shades, unlike the Golden Retriever that is lighter in color. Unless both parents are black or at least chocolate, it can be difficult to breed a black Labradoodle. In fact, even if both the Poodle and the Labrador are black, you might get chocolate puppies. All of this can make black fur color somewhat unpredictable. Typically, black Labradoodles come in a solid black color. This includes their paws, noses, eyes, paw pads, and all other physical attributes. There are several different shades these dogs can come in, so you can find Doodles in milk chocolate, dark chocolate, or even dark mahogany. This type of coat is usually described as a dark, red shade with a dull pecan color. Chocolate Labradoodles often have two shades mixed into one. This is because dark tones are recessive, so the second color, which is usually lighter, tends to mask these genes. You can even find multi-colored chocolate Labradoodles. Blue Labradoodle Blue, or silver Labradoodles, have a unique coat shade that is rarely found as a solid color. In fact, this hair tone is usually located in multi-colored Doodles, such as the sable, parti, or merle Labradoodles. If you have a hard time imagining this color, think of it as a washed-out black. Finding a Labradoodle that is entirely blue is almost impossible, despite this being a standard Poodle color. These dogs have two coat colors, and one of them has to be pure white. The other color can be of any shade that Labradoodles come in, but brown and apricot are the most common ones. They can also come in blue, while black is rare. The recessive gene found in Poodles is responsible for this pattern. To get a parti Labradoodle, you should breed two Doodles with this recessive gene, then hope their offspring will inherit it. If there is just one dominant gene in any of the parents, it can easily mess everything up. Because of this, parti Labradoodles tend to be quite expensive. Most breeders will conduct DNA testing to ensure a pup would have the parti patterns. As this color combination is fairly rare, there are virtually no two parti Labradoodles with the same markings. Tuxedo Labradoodle A tuxedo Labradoodle — or a black and white Labradoodle — is becoming more and more popular in recent years. These dogs have distinct features, such as a white tummy and legs, while the rest of the body is black. As the markings resemble a tuxedo, this is how this variation got its name. However, not all black and white Labradoodles are considered Tuxedo. Some Labradoodles can also have white markings on their chests, muzzle, and top of their heads. This means they are not Tuxedo. This is yet another pattern that is quite tricky to breed. To get a black and white Labradoodle, a breeder needs to crossbreed a parti Poodle with a white Labrador Retriever. This makes these Labradoodles quite rare. Sable Labradoodle Chances are this is the most unique color pattern in a Labradoodle — especially since the sable pattern is tough to predict in Labradoodle puppies. These dogs are entirely black during puppyhood. Then, as they grow older, most parts of their coat lighten, but some, such as the muzzle and their ear tips, remain black. Even if a sable Labradoodle ends up being light cream when adults, some parts of their body will remain pitch black. They are quite rare when breeding two Labradoodles, as at least one has to have a strong merle gene. The merle Labradoodle is quite different from the parti Labradoodle in that a dominant gene determines the merle pattern. This means that only one parent has to have it for it to show. However, there are many health issues related to the merle gene. Because of this, you should never breed two merle Labradoodles, as their offspring can have problems with their bone structure, be visually or hearing impaired, and develop other similar health issues. Grey Labradoodle These Labradoodles resemble their Poodle parents the most. In fact, at first glance, they look just like a medium or large-sized silver Poodle. This is yet another problematic coat type to predict in puppies since they are born looking like a chocolate Doodle. The best way to know if the puppy will grow into a grey adult is to look at his skin underneath the brown coat. If their skin is light, chances are their coat color will fade. At the same time, this is yet another shade that is usually seen in Aussiedoodles, so these two hybrid breeds can end up mixed. Phantom Labradoodle Finally, we get to the main color combination of this article — the phantom Labradoodle! This is an exceptionally rare color for a Labradoodle because for a Labradoodle to be considered a phantom, it has to have distinct colors in specific areas of its body. However, you can also find them in other colors, such as blue or a chocolate phantom. The typical color combination for a phantom Labradoodle is black and brown. However, you can find them in quite a few other colors, such as brown and silver, black and cream, or brown and cream. Phantom Labradoodles can also have white markings. All of this makes phantom Labradoodle the rarest of all coat patterns. Luckily, a phantom Labradoodle is easy to tell right after birth. Other colors, however, can be quite challenging to predict. A general rule of thumb is to pick a Labradoodle that is at least a shade darker than you expect it to be since most will fade over time. While all Doodles are adorable, there is something special about phantom Labradoodles. Whether it is their unique pattern or how seldom the pattern appears, it seems like no one can resist them. Blue merle sable pup coat Blue merle phantom tuxedo Black wolf sable pup coat Black wolf sable adult coat chocolate wolf sable puppy coat Chocolate wolf sable adult coat Coat Types Wool Wool is the tightest and curliest coat type, much like a lamb. It is springy and will stand up on its own when brushed out. Easy to maintain with bi-weekly brushing or regular trimming every weeks. A wool coat on an Australian Labradoodle is made up of thick, dense, and tightly curled hair that resembles wool. The hair is often coarse to the touch and provides excellent insulation against the cold. Wool coats are commonly found in breeds adapted to cold climates, such as the Poodle and Komondor. Wool coats can grow very long and require frequent grooming to prevent matting and to maintain their appearance. Fleece Fleece is silky soft and comes in varying degrees of curl. Spirals, loose curls, and waves are all seen in the fleece coat. It is the most commonly seen Labradoodle coat. This coat can be maintained with weekly brushing and trims times yearly. A fleece coat on a Labradoodle is typically made up of soft, wavy, and fluffy hair that resembles fleece or cotton. The hair tends to be longer than other coat types and grows in loose, elongated curls. Fleece coats are low to non-shedding and are usually hypoallergenic, making them a popular choice for people with allergies. Fleece coats require regular grooming to keep them looking their best and to prevent matting and tangling. Hair The hair coat is straight or wavy and prone to shed. This coat is rarely seen in Australian Labradoodles as advancements in genetic testing allow breeders to avoid it easily. The hair coat is typically less curly and less dense than the other coat types, and it can range in texture from straight to wavy. Hair coat Labradoodles require regular grooming, but typically shed less than other coat types. This coat is easy to maintain with regular brushing and can be less time consuming to bath and dry because it is less dense. Allergies Not all Labradoodles are Allergy and Asthma friendly. They have had an extremely high success rate so far. We recommend that if you can meet one of these beautiful dogs in person, you should check to see if you have any reactions before you decide to purchase your new puppy. We recommend that any family member suffering from dog-related allergies or asthma should look into a Wool coated labradoodle as it has the highest success rate. Great Day Labradoodles. I think NOT! Blue is a stunning black tri-phantom boy and an absolute heart-throb with the sweetest and most gentle spirit. Drawn to people, loves to cuddle, curious without being bold, playful without being rough, and he is just so DANG chill about anything and everything! He really and truly is the most laid back, quiet and mellow dog on the block! A complete and utter love bug with great eye contact! Blue has a wavy non-shedding coat so soft….Honestly you just want to keep hugging and hugging him…… This guy is sure to contribute heavily to our therapy dog line. His puppies will be the perfect doggos to take out to Starbucks, the office, schools or care homes. Look for his puppies starting ! This little fella has it going on! Multi-Gen Australian Labradoodle baldonnellanelabradoodles puppy love Baldonnel Lane Labradoodles is a small family breeder of high-quality mini and medium sized multigenerational Australian Labradoodles. Based in Northern British Columbia, their dogs bring joy to people and families nationwide. Shipping options are available worldwide. The most common Labradoodle colors are black, cream and gold. Black Labradoodles are common finding generally one per litter. These Labradoodles represent the base price for a dog within this breed. The color of a cream Labradoodle can vary between different shades with some having red tinges through their coat. Although the color cream may vary the whole coat should be one consistent color. Apricot Labradoodles are often born with lighter colored coats that darken over time while others that are born apricot in color develop to have a light cream coat. The entire strand of fur on a golden Labradoodle should be the same color. Golden Labradoodles often fade as they grow. These dogs are neither common or rare. These Labradoodles should hold their color until adulthood. The chocolate colored Labradoodles tend to be a popular choice. Their coloring should be even. Chocolate Labradoodles often appear almost black at birth. A parchment should not have other colors mixed into the fur. Large blotches of any color on white make for an acceptable Parti colored Labradoodle. The hardest to breed and come by is the red Labradoodle. Any combination of two colors is acceptable as long as they have the distinctive markings. A black and gold phantom is among the most common. These dogs are on the rarer spectrum. These Dogs are on the rarer spectrum. While gold is a common color, the birth of a Labradoodle with a deep red coloring is as rare as they come. A red Poodle is unusual making a red Labradoodle even harder to come by. The roots of a red Labradoodle should match the tips. Red Labradoodles are hard to breed and even harder to come by. Red Labradoodle Puppy and Adult The range of Labradoodle coat colors is extensive although no matter which puppy you pick, Labradoodles make loving life long friends. Related posts:.

Rabies Vaccine Rabies is a viral infection caused by a virus secreted in the saliva. According to the Humane Society , because the infection affects the nervous system, most rabid animals behave abnormally. When should puppies get rabies shots? Generally speaking, puppies should get their first rabies shot around 16 weeks of age and again between years old. Rabies Vaccine Schedule for Puppies 1st shot: weeks Booster: every 3 years Non-core Vaccines Non-core vaccines are important, but they are considered optional for dogs with less risk of infection. Non-core vaccines are recommended based on lifestyle and where you live or travel. Bordetella Bordetella bronchiseptica is a bacterium associated with respiratory disease in dogs and is known to cause the most severe form of kennel cough. Symptoms of an upper respiratory infection include nasal discharge, sneezing, coughing, congestion, etc. Some veterinarians may recommend Bordetella as a core vaccine for puppies based on their living environment, especially for social dogs who spend time in areas where they might come into contact with the bacteria like the dog park, boarding facilities, or doggy daycare. The vaccination can be given orally, intranasally, or by injection. Bordetella Vaccine Schedule for Puppies 1st shot: weeks Booster: every year Leptospira Leptospirosis is a bacterial disease caused by infection of the genus Leptospira, which are found in water and soil. The zoonotic disease spreads easily from animals to humans and is more common in warm climate areas with high annual rainfall; the Leptospira vaccine may be considered core in these areas. Signs of leptospirosis may include shivering, fever, muscle tenderness, increased thirst, dehydration, diarrhea, vomiting, lethargy, jaundice, kidney failure, liver failure, etc. Leptospira Vaccine Schedule for Puppies 1st shot: weeks 3rd shot: 1 year Booster: every year There is also a 5-way vaccine known as DHLPP, which is a combination vaccine of distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, parainfluenza, and parvo. Lyme disease Lyme disease is caused by infection with the bacterium Borrelia burgdorferi which is transmitted through the bite of infected ticks. The most common symptoms in dogs include loss of appetite, lameness, joint swelling, swollen lymph nodes, and fatigue. More serious cases can also develop kidney complications. The Lyme disease vaccine is highly recommended for dogs that live in or frequently travel to areas known for Lyme disease, as well as those living in areas with a high risk of tick exposure. Lyme Vaccination Schedule for Puppies 1st shot: weeks 2nd shot: weeks later Booster: every year Canine Influenza Canine influenza, or dog flu, is a contagious viral infection affecting dogs. The virus is spread through aerosols or droplets containing respiratory secretions from barking, sneezing, and coughing. Dogs in close contact with infected dogs in places like daycare facilities, groomers, and kennels are at a higher risk of contracting the disease. CIV causes an acute respiratory infection in dogs, with the most common clinical sign being a cough that persists for up to 21 days. Vaccines are available for both H3N2 and H3N8 canine influenza. A bivalent vaccine offering protection against both strains is available as well. Dogs become infected when they swallow the parasite that may be present in water or other substances that have been soiled with feces leading to the disease Giardiasis. Giardia in dogs usually causes diarrhea, weight loss, or even death. Giardia is an available vaccine for puppies 8 weeks of age and older for 6 months of immunity against giardiasis. Most common symptoms include vomiting, diarrhea, and loss of appetite. Young dogs are at a high risk of contracting the disease, so the vaccine is highly recommended for puppies under eight weeks. Rattlesnake vaccine A rattlesnake vaccine can help dogs build antibodies to rattlesnake venom from bites that are often deadly and severely painful to dogs. The antibodies work to neutralize the venom, thereby significantly extending the window of time you have to take your dog to the emergency room , increasing their odds of survival. Protect yourself from heartbreak without breaking the bank. Compare quotes to find the best deal for your budget. After that, puppies should receive a series of vaccines every two to four weeks until actual protein can be achieved between the ages of 6 and 20 weeks old. Your vet will determine a safe vaccine schedule for your puppy based on their weight, health, age, etc. Some pet parents prefer getting multiple puppy shots in one vet visit to minimize stress on their pet, whereas others prefer to spread the shots out to reduce possible side effects and soreness — talk to your vet to create a safe vaccine schedule that works for you and your puppy. Rabies depends on local laws but is usually given by the time your dog reaches 3 to 6 months old. When should puppies have all their shots by? Most vets prefer giving the final DHPP shot at 16 weeks or later; however, new recommendations suggest up to 20 weeks out. When do puppies need booster shots? Abstaining from booster shots can put your puppy at risk. However, not all vaccines require yearly boosters. DHPP vaccine booster: every two weeks for a total of three sets, then every three years Lepto, Canine influenza, and Lyme disease vaccine booster: one month after the initial series, then annually Bordetella booster: 1 year or every 6 months where there is a concern Rabies booster: every 1 to 3 years after the initial round, depending on state laws Puppy Vaccine Schedule There are several types of puppy shots your pet might get in their first year. In addition to a deworming schedule, your vet will suggest a vaccination schedule for puppies based on their age, environment, and medical history. Most vets recommend this general timeline for first-year puppy shots: weeks of age Between 6- and 8-weeks-old, puppies get their first shot of the DHPP distemper, hepatitis, parainfluenza, parvovirus vaccine. They might also receive their first round of vaccinations for Bordetella and Lyme disease. Leptospira Lepto is a common puppy vaccination administered around this time frame. They'll also get their first rabies vaccine depending on state-mandated vaccine schedules for puppies, as well as a second shot of the Lepto vaccine if applicable. Boosters Every Years Puppies will need a booster shot for all vaccines at age 1. Dogs need booster vaccinations for Bordetella, Lepto, Lyme, and Giardia annually receiving their first immunization as an adult. The vaccination schedule for DHPP and rabies is every 3 years, but check your local laws and defer to your veterinarian's advice to ensure your pet stays free of disease. How much are puppy shots? Non-essential vaccines your vet may recommend will also increase the price. Note that puppy shots cost more or less depending on several different factors, including your location. For instance, vets in crowded urban areas tend to charge more than vets in smaller towns and rural areas. Also keep in mind that you'll need to budget for booster shots in one- or three-year intervals to ensure your pet stays protected from disease. Fortunately, vaccines for dogs are less expensive than first-year puppy shots because boosters are administered in one dose every few years, as opposed to multiple doses every few weeks. All puppies need to get the core vaccines, i. Your veterinarian will consider the risk factors and advise you on which vaccines are best for your puppy during the first vet visit. No, but both vaccines for puppies are often combined in one shot. Distemper and parvovirus are two different illnesses that are potentially fatal if not treated quickly. What is the 5-in-1 shot for puppies? Do puppies need 3 or 4 sets of shots? It depends on their age; vets may recommend a shorter puppy vaccination schedule for dogs over 16 weeks old and not yet fully vaccinated. How many shots do puppies need before going outside? A titer test is a blood test showing whether your puppy has antibodies for a particular illness. The test can be used to determine the effectiveness of a vaccine and help determine if or which booster vaccines your dog needs. Most doggy daycares and boarding facilities do not accept a titer test in lieu of a puppy vaccination record. When should puppies get dewormed? Because worms are very common in puppies, veterinarians recommend deworming them for the first time when they're two to three weeks old. Is there a heartworm vaccine for puppies? Preventatives can either be administered as monthly medication or every six months by injection. How can you save money on puppy shots? One way to save money on puppy vaccines is by visiting a low-cost vaccination clinic. These clinics typically offer packages that combine a bundle of vaccinations into a lower price point, but also offer individual options if your dog is due for a specific vaccine. Another way to save money on puppy shots is by purchasing a pet wellness plan through a pet insurance provider. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. What Shots Do Puppies Need Did you know that vaccines work the same for dogs as they do for you and me? By triggering the production of antibodies, vaccines allow the body the chance to build up immunity to a disease, virus, or bacteria. However, while vaccines are certainly effective, they do not make us immune to the possibility of contracting the illness we were vaccinated for—they just make us and our furry friends less likely to suffer severe symptoms. Puppy Pro Tip: Core vaccines are those which are recommended for all dogs, regardless of lifestyle factors. On the other hand, non-core vaccines are not necessarily recommended for all dogs, and are evaluated on a pup-by-pup basis by your vet; non-core vaccine recommendations are based on factors such as: lifestyle, health conditions, location, risk factors, etc. Bordetella Known to cause a highly infectious form of bronchitis in dogs, Bordetella is nothing to mess around with! Some pups become so ill from the bacterium that they suffer from serious side effects, including vomiting, seizures, and rarely death. The good news is, Bordetella can be avoided! Simply ask your vet about the different options for vaccination—which usually include a nasal spray or a traditional injectable vaccine. What makes distemper so contagious is the fact that it spreads easily through respiratory droplets in the air, as well as through shared water and food bowls that have been contaminated. For these reasons, the canine distemper vaccine is considered a core vaccine. The symptoms of distemper are often on the serious side and range from coughing and vomiting, to diarrhea, seizures, paralysis, and even death. Because there is no cure for canine distemper, the best thing you can do for your pet is vaccinate them! Hepatitis While unrelated to human hepatitis, canine hepatitis affects your pup in largely the same way—by attacking the liver, kidneys, lungs, eyes, and spleen. The symptoms can range from congestion and fever, to vomiting, stomach swelling, and severe liver pain. Like distemper, there is no official cure for canine hepatitis. Symptoms can often be managed in milder forms; however, more severe forms can be fatal. Because of the risk of fatality, this is considered a core vaccine. Additionally, this is considered a core vaccine. This infection is insidious, as the early stages produce no symptoms. However, in the later stages of the disease, a heartworm infection can cause breathing difficulties and lethargy in your pup. For the health of your pup, it is important to start the preventative medication as soon as your vet deems it appropriate to do so. Kennel Cough Also known as Infectious Tracheobronchitis, Kennel Cough is the all-encompassing name given to a set of symptoms that include dry, harsh coughing, and— occasionally—gagging, retching, and a loss of appetite. Rarely, it is fatal. Kennel cough is often caused by either Bordetella, Parainfluenza, or both. Kennel cough is highly contagious and can be transferred between dogs that are in close proximity. Leptospirosis Caused by a bacteria that exists naturally in soil and water all over the world, Leptospirosis is a zoonotic disease— meaning, it can spread between animals and humans —that can have severe consequences. Serious side effects include diarrhea, vomiting, fever, weakness, infertility, and even kidney and liver failure. Lyme Disease As with humans, canine Lyme disease is contracted through a bite from an infected tick. In dogs, symptoms of infection can include swollen lymph nodes, fever, loss of appetite, and even limping. If left untreated, Lyme disease can lead to neurological disorders in your furry friend. There are antibiotics which can be administered if diagnosed quickly; however, if you have already received the vaccination, your pup has a much better chance of quick recovery. Parvo attacks the gastrointestinal tract and can lead to fever, vomiting, and bloody diarrhea. Because Parvo causes extreme dehydration in dogs, it can become fatal as early as hours after contracting it. Unfortunately, once Parvo is contracted, there is no cure. The serious symptoms— combined with the lack of a cure for Parvo— are a part of what makes it a core vaccine. Canine rabies is one of the most serious diseases your pet can get—it invades the central nervous system and eventually leads to death if immediate treatment is not administered. The good news is, the rabies vaccine is considered a core vaccine and as a result, most states have regulations requiring rabies vaccines to be administered regularly; simply talk to your vet to learn more. Summary of dog vaccination schedules Why do we vaccinate dogs? This helps their body build immune cells that are specifically designed to respond effectively when the real thing comes along. And in fact, the diseases they prevent are irritating at best, and potentially deadly at worst. Vaccines are also relatively painless, easy, and cost-effective to administer. What do we vaccinate dogs against? There are a number of vaccines for dogs, which can be broken down into core and non-core vaccines. Your veterinarian can help you decide which non-core vaccines are right for your dog. What are the core vaccines for dogs? Rabies: Rabies is a highly contagious and fatal viral disease transmitted via a bite from an infected animal, such as coyotes, raccoons, skunks, bats, and foxes. It can be transmitted to humans, for whom it is also fatal. The Rabies vaccine is legally required in most U. These are all serious, highly infectious diseases that can result in pain, organ damage and may be fatal. Whilst some vets do not consider this a core vaccine, at Small Door we strongly recommend it for all dogs in New York, as leptospirosis is found across all five boroughs and is even more prominent outside of the city. What are the non-core vaccines for dogs? Bordetella: Bordetella is also known as kennel cough , a nasty respiratory disease. The vaccine is required by dog groomers, boarding and daycare facilities. Lyme: Lyme Disease is a bacterial disease that can affect pets and humans, causing fever, painful joints and, at times, organ damage. When do puppies get their first shots? Puppies should typically receive their first shots as soon as they are weaned or around 8 weeks old. This is generally completed during three vet visits in the first few months. Geographical location and lifestyle are factors that may come into play, so not every dog will need every vaccine. However, here is what a typical puppy vaccination timeline looks like for year one. This maternal immunity can also interfere with the vaccines we administer, and make them less effective. So, to make sure puppies acquire a high enough level of antibodies to be effective, we have to vaccinate them multiple times — in other words, administer boosters. I'm not sure if my dog is up-to-date on shots, what should I do? Your veterinarian may be able to run an antibody test to determine if the dog needs additional vaccinations or if their vaccination process needs to be started over. Adult dog vaccine schedule Adult and senior dogs need regular boosters to maintain their immunity levels. Boosters are required yearly or every three years depending on the vaccine. Previously this vaccine was recommended every six months, but guidelines now recommend yearly boosters. Some groomers and daycare facilities may still request the six month booster shot. Canine influenza: every year Lyme disease: every year Vaccinations for adult dogs: boosters and titers Although vaccines are very safe, some owners may have concerns about providing boosters to their pets. In these cases, they might consider a titer instead. Titers may also be required for international travel to some countries. A titer test is a procedure for testing and measuring the amount of antibodies proteins that provide protection from certain diseases a dog has in its blood for a specific disease. This is accomplished by repeatedly diluting a sample of blood and then exposing the diluted blood to an antigen. They can be a way to measure if your dog needs to be revaccinated or if they can forgo the booster. By law, the only shot required in most U. If you are looking for a cheaper alternative then animal shelters often offer low-cost vaccine clinics, although they might not offer all of the vaccinations that your pup might need. Related articles. Usually, this means regular vet checkups and puppy vaccinations. This is especially important if you have other dogs or other pets in your household. Otherwise, you may want to bring a stool sample with you when you first see the vet. Ask your vet to clarify what, if any, samples you should bring with you. This article is intended as a general guide for puppy vaccinations. If you have any specific questions or concerns relating to your puppy, please consult your licensed veterinarian. Most puppies should be vaccinated starting at 10 weeks old. Some vets may recommend annual booster shots. There is significant debate on whether booster shots every year are necessary or if they do more harm than good to the immune system. Speak to your vet and share your concerns about booster shots. Vaccines are meant to keep your puppy from catching a specific disease. Just like children are vaccinated against measles or chicken pox, puppies are vaccinated against rabies, distemper and other common but dangerous diseases. However, if you live in an area where certain diseases are more frequent, then there may be other legal requirements for vaccinations. The American Animal Hospital Association and the American Veterinary Medicine Association both recommend that your puppy be vaccinated against these core potentially fatal and non-core not as deadly diseases. Your vet will also be able to recommend vaccines that are the most appropriate for your puppy so be sure to ask. This is why the rabies vaccine is required by law. Once your puppy has been immunized for rabies, you can expect to bring your dog in for a booster shot once a year or once every three years, depending on local laws. Death or chronic kidney problems are the unfortunate results of canine hepatitis. Parvovirus is a life-threatening illness that attacks white blood cells. In puppies, parvovirus can damage the heart muscles and cause death or chronic heart problems. Canine distemper does not have a known cure. Vaccination has significantly cut down on the spread of canine distemper. Your vet will have more knowledge about your dog and local infections, and should be able to recommend one or more of these vaccinations: Lyme Disease can be passed on to dogs from tick bites and typically causes joint inflation, arthritis and lameness. However, Lyme disease can be treated and very rarely causes death in dogs. Kennel Cough, a mild respiratory tract infection, can be caused by the parainfluenza virus or the bordetella bacterium. Coronavirus causes puppy diarrhea. Puppies younger than 12 weeks are at the highest risk for mortality. Giardiasis is caused by the parasite species giardia that lives in the intestine. Dogs usually catch the parasites from one another through infected fecal matter. Distemper is related to the measles virus and is part of the four recommended core vaccinations. Leptospirosis is contagious to humans and can be caught from infected water, soil or other animals. Soreness at the injection site is the most common side effect of vaccinations. But if you do notice changes in behavior, skin rashes, high fever, vomiting or signs of dizziness, call your vet right away. As to costs, it depends on where you live and the number of vaccines you choose to give your dog. Found this article helpful? Share with other dog lovers or let us know your thoughts in the comments section below. You May Also Like.