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Younger puppies need more frequent meals. Older puppies can eat less often. Feeding your new puppy is one of the most important things you can do to lay the foundation for adult doghood. So, how often should you feed a puppy? Once weaned, puppies should get three scheduled feedings a day. Make sure you know the total amount of food he needs per day based on his weight and divide that amount among the three feedings. Our puppy feeding chart offers a more in-depth look at feeding amounts. Puppies 6 Months to 1 Year Old Around six months of age, decrease the number of feedings to twice a day: once in the morning and once in the evening. Some large breeds take 18 months to 2 years to fully mature. Once your puppy has reached full maturity based on his breed size, you can feed him once or twice a day. Choose the feeding schedule that works best for both you and your dog. Feeding a puppy food to adult dogs could cause him to become overweight because it has more calories. Remember, you can always refer to the feeding instructions on the food label or consult your veterinarian with any questions. Establishing a routine helps your puppy learn what to expect. Visit our Pet Expertise page for more expert tips on puppy nutrition, training and more. Related articles. The range of amounts is based on the activity of your Golden for the day, either low, moderate, or high level of activity. Golden Retrievers should have scheduled times to eat daily. The scheduled times will help them with their energy levels and keep them healthy. You can schedule their eating times as to what works best for your schedule. For example, feeding them before you leave for work and then when you get home. As a puppy, they will eat three times a day, so you will need to find times in those first few months to feed them more often. When they are an adult or senior, the scheduling of feeding times will be easier because they will only eat twice daily. For a Golden Retriever puppy, the best feeding schedule is once in the morning, noontime, and in the evening. For example, you could feed their first meal at am, lunch at noon, then dinner at pm. Planning their mealtimes around your mealtimes will often make it easier for you and the puppy. Make sure to give them plenty of time after eating to got to the bathroom a couple of times before heading to bed. Hopefully, this will help them sleep for a longer period. After about six months, your Golden Retriever can go down to two daily feedings. This usually occurs once in the morning and once in the evening. They can usually last about 12 hours between meals. If it goes past 12 hours, they could become nauseated. Golden Retrievers can experience food allergies often caused from proteins in dairy or meat products. If your dog experiences symptoms such as vomiting, diarrhea, or itching they may have a food allergy. They warn that feeding dogs any raw animal-source protein could cause illness because it has not gone through a process to remove harmful pathogens. However, a raw diet can be healthy if you are willing to go through the extra cleaning processes of the meat. This is a lot of work and difficult to do correctly and safely. We do not recommend it without expert veterinary help. Before starting a raw diet with your Golden, be sure to consult a veterinarian. Find one that is familiar with raw foods and can help with the proper handling of the foods. If you work hard to make sure your homemade foods are rich in the vitamins and minerals that a dog needs, then it might work for your Golden Retriever. It takes a lot more time to find recipes and make sure it has all the nutritional value of a store-bought dog food. If you are willing to research expertly formulated recipes internet is making it easier to do this , and take the time to cook for your golden then go for it! Consulting your veterinarian is a must before starting any homemade diet. A veterinary nutritionist should also review your plan before starting. Feeding your Golden Retriever table food is not the best practice but a small amount of dog healthy table food is fine. Some example table foods that are healthy for them are carrots, blueberries and plain yogurt. Just be aware that feeding them too much table food can throw their entire diet out of whack. They may not be getting enough vitamins and minerals like they do from their dog food. Conclusion Making sure your Golden Retriever is getting the right foods at the right amounts will help them live their best life. There are many choices of foods with all the right ingredients. Be sure to choose one that works best for you and your Golden. Consult with your veterinarian on which food will bring the most nutritional value to the health of your Golden Retriever. If your Golden is experiencing any health issues related to changing foods, visit your veterinarian. If this article was helpful, please consider sharing this post on Facebook with the button below! She is board certified a specialist in canine reproduction. In her day job, she is a leader in a small biotech where she and a team of veterinarians and scientists work to develop new medications for pets. She enjoys sharing her knowledge of this wonderful breed of dogs. She and her husband have 2 children, 3 dogs and one cat. They love camping and hiking and she can often be found with her head in a good book. Recent Posts. Learn more » Congratulations on your new golden retriever puppy! You now have a beautiful, smart, and loyal dog who will love you for life. To make sure they grow into a healthy and happy companion, you need to feed them the right amount of food. At months old, which is usually when they are ready to leave their mother, a golden retriever puppy should be eating 3 cups of dog food divided into three meals per day. This is based on a typical large-breed puppy food. Different brands will give a feeding guide on their packaging. However, how much and how often to feed your golden retriever will keep changing during this time of rapid growth. Golden Retriever Puppy Feeding Timeline Image Credit: PxHere All puppies are different as are the foods, but some general guidelines for feeding your golden retriever during their first year are: 0—6 weeks: A golden retriever puppy can start eating solid food when they are 3—4 weeks old. Give them a total of 3 cups of dog food per day by their third month, 3 to 4 cups by the time they are 6 months old. The AKC recommends waiting until large breed puppies are at least 12 months old before switching them over to adult dog food and more likely 18 months. The amount will depend on their weight and activity level, but a rough guide is 1—2 cups per meal. Image Credit: Kinek00, Shutterstock Large breed puppies like golden retrievers should eat three to four small meals a day for the first 3—6 months of their lives. Smaller portions spread throughout the day are easier on their tummies and help prevent bloat, a serious condition that can be deadly for dogs. It also helps them maintain their energy level throughout the day. Puppy food has more calories and fat to support their growth, as well as extra vitamins and minerals for their developing immune and nervous systems and bones. The protein source matters, too. Puppies need animal-based proteins like chicken, beef, or lamb for their growing muscles. Choose a Large Breed Formula: Large breed puppies grow quickly, which means they need extra support for their bones and joints. Formulations for large breeds contain the correct calcium and phosphorus ratio for strong bones and glucosamine and chondroitin for healthy joints. They can help you choose the right food for your puppy based on their age, weight, and activity level. But puppies need to be fed on a schedule to prevent them from overeating and becoming overweight. How do you know if your puppy is getting enough to eat? After that, their growth will start to slow down. He Has a Healthy Appetite: A healthy puppy is interested in food and eager to eat. He Has Plenty of Energy: A well-fed puppy is full of energy and ready to play. Make the most of mealtime with these tips: 1. It also helps other aspects of puppy training, such as potty training and crate training. Image Credit: Alena Marchuk, Shutterstock This means leaving food out all day for them to graze on whenever they want. Leave food down for 10 minutes and then pick up what is not eaten. If they have not eaten anything, offer it again in an hour. Slow them down by scattering their kibble around the bowl, using a puzzle feeder or snuffle mat. This will help them learn to eat slowly and enjoy their food more. If your puppy is not drinking enough water for your liking, try adding a bit of broth to their bowl to make it more appealing and help them stay hydrated. Resist the Urge to Sneak Them Table Scraps Puppies are experts at giving those big, soulful eyes that make it hard to say no. But resist the temptation to give them table scraps or human food. Aside from teaching them bad manners, it can also lead to health problems, like obesity. A lot of human foods are not safe or healthy for dogs. For instance, garlic and onions are toxic to dogs. Oily food can upset their stomach, and carbs add a lot of calories. This helps them learn that mealtime is a specific time and place and not something that happens all over the house. Let Your Puppy Eat in Peace. This includes other pets in the house and small children who might want to bother them or try to steal their food. Otherwise, meals can become a stressful experience for your puppy instead of a happy one. Conclusion Feeding your golden retriever puppy the right amount of quality dog food will establish a strong foundation for their health and happiness. In addition, make mealtimes more meaningful by turning them into lessons and bonding moments between you and your dog. The puppy phase is over before you know it, so enjoy it while it lasts! Read the full disclosure here. Being a large and energetic dog, your golden retriever has a ravenous appetite and can eat a lot. However, overfeeding is never good and could be avoided with the help of a golden retriever feeding chart. Knowing how much to feed your golden retriever is always tricky but essential for their well-being and health. Goldens are prone to obesity and joint problems, which can only be exacerbated with an inadequate feeding plan. So, stay with me to find the right feeding plan and meal schedule for your goldie. Most first-time owners think their puppies should be chubby. In truth, golden retriever puppies are supposed to look lanky and act like they are always hungry when fed the correct amount of food. To encourage proper growth and development without making your pup obese, you will have to know how much to feed a golden retriever puppy. For example, cheaper foods use fillers and have a smaller amount of calories, thus you will have to feed more than you would when using premium large breed puppy foods. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. We all want our golden retriever puppies to be healthy and happy. We envision them running through a verdant field chasing a ball. Full of energy with the beautiful, lustrous golden coat. But, just like us, eating the proper food in the proper amounts will help your golden properly grow and thrive. After all, what we eat impacts how healthy we are. How much you should feed your golden retriever puppy will vary depending on the quality of food you feed, his age, his weight, his general health, and his activity level. Your golden will be growing for up to two years. And the amount of food during that time will have to be adjusted depending on his needs. Because most people feed kibble to their pup, this article will focus on that. Kibble is convenient and cost effective. Instead, they should be lanky and full of energy. They should love to eat their food with gusto. Instead, you should be able to feel his ribs when you pet him there. There should just be a thin coating of fat under his skin. And he should have a defined waistline. Of course you should check with your veterinarian to make such adjustments. And remember a young puppy should get only so much exercise a day. Their joints and bones are developing and can be damaged if the exercise is too extreme. Assuming you have an eight-week-old puppy, he should receive three to four meals a day. From eight weeks old until about five or six months old, three meals per day are advisable. Of course, feed at the same intervals every day and split the total amount per day in half to be given at each feeding. After about six months of age through adulthood, two feedings per day are the norm. Always check with your vet regarding how much and how often to feed. These are just guidelines. Feed him at the same distraction-free location so that he focuses on eating. As much as goldens love to eat, a young golden puppy is also very easily distracted. This can lead to possible health problems, including joint and bone problems. Goldens can easily become overweight. Free feeding can also lead to a picky eater. Some puppies figure out that if their buffets are always there, and they can just go graze at will. Most foods you purchase will have guidelines on their bag or box. When you first get your puppy, feed him the same food that the breeder or rescue fed him for a few weeks. Then, if you want to change his food, do so over at least 10 days. Add more of the new food and subtract more of the old food each day. After about five days, you should be giving him approximately 50 percent of the new food and 50 percent of the old food. Switching food over such a period of time will help prevent stomach upsets and diarrhea. Overfeeding will result not only in him becoming overweight but it will also make him grow too fast. Periodically—even weekly— test whether you can still feel his ribs without them protruding. You can then increase the amount he eats. You should also feed his last meal of the day at least 90 minutes before his bed time so that he can digest his food and potty before bed. A well-balanced, high-quality food should provide all the nutrients he requires. Golden puppies require a formula made for large-breed dogs. Puppy formulas for large-breed dogs regulate their growth. Eating too quickly can lead to digestive upsets and even bloat, which can be deadly. I rescued my golden retriever Riley when he was about six months old. To say that he ate as if it were his last meal would be an understatement. He had a voracious appetite. I bought one of the maze bowls to slow him down. The kibble is placed between each section of the bowl, and he had to forage for his food. It worked! He ate at a more normal pace. Of course, dogs should be given free access to fresh water. Other Feeding Options Although I concentrated in this article on feeding kibble to your new puppy, there are other options. There are some drawbacks to them because they may not be nutritionally complete, may be cost prohibitive, or may be too time-consuming to make. Wet Food Canned food alone or mixed with kibble is an option. But wet food alone is very expensive. He may become a picky eater. Feeding raw is controversial. Dehydrated raw foods reduce some of the risks. The ratio of calcium to phosphorous is crucial to puppy development. Homemade Diet Cooking for your best friend can be very appealing. And many people do. You know what ingredients and their quality are. But it has its drawbacks. Of course, the amount you feed is important for his growth rate and general health and well-being. But there is no one-size-fits-all in determining how much to feed a golden retriever puppy. Any amounts you see are just guidelines. Adjust them as necessary regarding your own special puppy. Do you have a golden retriever puppy? How did you determine what and how much to feed him? Please leave your comments in the section below. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist. Debbie has been training dogs for over 24 years and has nationally ranked obedience and rally dogs, agility dogs, trick dogs, and therapy dogs. Post navigation. They are famously loving and playful family pets, always eager to jump in the pool or snuggle up with you on the lounge. They are patient and energetic dogs who are easy to train, making them excellent service animals as well as loyal companions. If you are bringing a Goldie into your family, you might also be aware of their reputation as food lovers. Your Goldie might want to eat anything and everything you put in their bowl — and maybe even anything left on an unattended plate. In this Golden Retriever feeding guide, Hypro Premium will take you through everything you need to know when it comes to food options for your pup. The best food for most young puppies is milk. If you are weaning a puppy, you can start to mix in a little dry kibble with their puppy milk to create a paste. You can feed this mix to your puppy up to four times a day, slowly reducing the amount of milk you mix in. Over time, your Goldie puppy will get more comfortable with solid foods, until you no longer need to include any milk in their diet. While chubby little puppies are cute, your Goldie should not build up too much excess fat once you start feeding them solids. Goldies go from a small 4kg puppy at 7 weeks old to an almost 30 kg adult dog in the space of only 10 months. At six months old your puppy will still be growing, but more slowly as they reach most of their body development milestones. This is why appropriate feeding in the first year of their life is vital to the overall health of your Goldie for years to come. Over time this can increase to up to 4 cups a day at 10 months old, though females should usually only need 3 cups a day. The amount you feed your puppy is often dependent on their size and sex. While they may have some growing left to do, it depends on your dog. Some Goldies will continue to experience growth spurts before their second birthday, while others will stay the same size. Large breeds can be at risk of growing too fast, which can make them more vulnerable to skeletal and weight problems when they get older. Golden retrievers are especially prone to hip and elbow dysplasia, which can be avoided through diet control. You should feed your Goldie between 3 — 4 cups of food per day over two meals. Adult dogs and puppies have different nutritional needs. This is important to take into consideration as you are establishing a feeding schedule for a Golden Retriever puppy. Puppies require more calories to support their rapid growth than adult dogs, but they also have much smaller stomachs, which means they get fuller faster. Because of this, puppies can easily overeat, especially Golden Retrievers. You can help your puppy avoid overeating by allowing them a short amount of time to eat, and then removing their bowl. All puppies grow a lot during their first year, but large breed puppies are more likely to suffer from negative health consequences as a result. In order to provide your Golden Retriever puppy with the most appropriate food to support their rapid growth, consider choosing a large breed puppy food. Goldie puppies need lots of protein, fibre, and fatty acids to support the development of their bodies and provide them with energy. These foods also take into account the difference in nutrient digestion between small and large breeds. Too much of these nutrients can cause your large breed puppy to develop skeletal abnormalities. So how much do you feed a Golden Retriever? Your adult Goldie could need anywhere between and 1, calories per day. The amount of food you feed your dog will be determined by a few important factors. The first thing to consider is the sex of your dog. On average, your male Golden Retriever will need slightly more food than a female dog. Senior dogs will usually be less active and so will need less food. Goldies in particular can have a lot of variation in the amount of food they need on a daily basis. No matter how much you feed your dog, it is ideal that you feed your adult Golden Retriever two meals a day at evenly spaced time intervals. Feeding your dog twice, once in the morning and again in the evening, can be useful for establishing a routine and avoiding overfeeding. This routine can also include exercise, and is useful for encouraging healthy behaviour around food and toilet training. Special Considerations Your Golden Retriever could be predisposed to several health conditions that are important to consider when you make decisions about their diet. Firstly, Golden Retrievers are known for their beautiful coats, but their skin can often become infected. Goldies love swimming, but this can cause problems if water irritates their skin. They can also be susceptible to atopic dermatitis, which causes extreme itchiness, resulting in licking and biting behaviours in dogs that can cause even more damage. For dogs prone to skin and coat issues, a fish-based diet can help alleviate symptoms. Fish contains plenty of fatty acids, which support coat and skin health, and rarely triggers any allergic reaction in dogs. Goldies often benefit from healthy grains in their diet, especially as avoiding them can actually leave your dog more vulnerable to nutritional dilated cardiomyopathy, or nutritional DCM. This heart disease is common in Golden Retrievers, and can be triggered by consuming too much grain-free pet food that contains legumes like lentils and peas. You should consider feeding your Golden Retriever foods that are full of grains and proteins like chicken or fish. These are the benefits and drawbacks of the three most popular options — wet food, a raw food diet, and dry food. Wet food can be a great option for dogs that need plenty of protein and fat, like working dogs or dogs with certain health conditions. It also hydrates your dog while they eat, which can be useful for dogs suffering from any illness. For dogs with highly restrictive diets, raw food prepared by you can be a great way to avoid allergens. You can have complete control over a raw diet, which does require a lot more work on your part, but can have great results. For instance, a Golden Retriever with heart issues should eat a low salt diet, which can be easier to achieve if you are preparing their meals from scratch. However, low quality kibbles tend to be made up of a lot of low quality fillers, which can be hard for your pup to digest. Whatever option you choose for your Goldie, make sure it is suitable for large breeds and contains high quality ingredients. This will help prevent degenerative health disorders in the long run. Your Golden Retriever will probably love food, and will probably try to eat anything you put in front of them, which means you need to help them avoid the negative consequences of overeating. Golden retrievers, like other large and active breeds, need plenty of exercise. Not only is this vital to their physical health, but it also ensures they grow up well socialised and mentally stimulated. As your Goldie grows from a puppy to an adult dog, the amount of meals they need a day will reduce as their digestive systems become more developed. Your dog will need two meals a day, once in the evening and once in the morning, from the age of 6 months.

Similar in style to the Rabbitgoo — the Winsee is both a walking and a front range harness. The harness itself is made from a D oxford fabric with high density that prevents your Lab from easily chewing or tearing it. Collar or a Harness for a Labrador Labradors have a lot of energy and require much exercise as a result. Many Labrador owners at first default to giving their Lab a dog collar and walking them that way. After a few weeks of frustration from being dragged around on the street with constant pulling, some consider an alternative to their collars and decide on a dog harness. Pulling in Labradors is not uncommon and something seasoned Lab owners will be familiar with. For first time owners, however, it can be not only frustrating but challenging. It can not only cause discomfort for you, particularly your hands but can lead to discomfort and stress for your dog. Regardless, if your dog is a puller or not — we suggest using a collar solely for ID tags to help identify them should they get lost. Types of Lab Harnesses There are several types of harness out there, which can be a little daunting at first. Labrador Vest Harness Simple, inexpensive and used as a basic walking harness. Often made from plastic, mesh or nylon — they are designed for lightweight general wear and for dogs who are already well behaved on their leash. Back clip dog harnesses have a lead attachment point at the back. A standard leash can be clipped on for normal walking. Front clip harnesses, such as the SENSE-ation, have an attachment point solely at the front of the chest area. These are very different than your traditional harnesses in that the lead only attaches to the front — which may seem odd at first — however, they can often be recommended by trainers as an easier way to reduce pulling. Front and Back clip harnesses have points at both the top back and include a secondary attachment point at the front chest of the harness. One point attaches to the back, the other to the front. This offers increased control of your dog, similar to the reins used on a horse. A no-pull harness is made to reduce the impact of the dog pulling on their lead, as well as aid in the training of your dog. Tightening and Control Harness There are more aggressive than standard anti-pulling harnesses, and tighten when your dog starts pulling. These can be uncomfortable as they can squeeze the dogs chest as they tighten. These harness types are best reserved for experienced dog handlers and trainers. Although often associated with Military and Service dogs, they are also to be found as training harnesses, hunting harnesses or general trekking. Labrador Harness Size and Measurements Standard adult labrador sizes vary, but according to the American Kennel Club , an average male labrador height is between .This places Labs in the category of a medium-large breed, with harness sizes reflecting that. Normally this will be a large-sized harness, though it will vary depending on the manufacturer. To get an accurate measurement for your Labrador and Lab puppy, follow the steps below. Measure The Chest The most crucial part of your measurement is the chest. Take a tape measure and wrap it around the widest part of the chest. This is found a few inches behind the front legs. Add a Few Inches You should all a couple of inches to the total to allow for movement and growth. Take the tape measure and measure around the circumference of the neck. What Makes a Good Labrador Dog Harness Finding the right dog harness can take not only time and effort but patience from you, the owner. Be careful not to select a harness that is likely to fall apart, snap or break when put under strain. Check that the harness fits well and allows for movement. Summary We hope you found our article on the best harnesses for Labradors helpful in making your choice. Dog harnesses are a good alternative to walking your dog on a collar and lead. Harnesses are also great if your dog is a puller. They can also be used for training your dog to stop them from tugging on their leash when walking them. You should also find a harness that fits the size of your breed, as too loose opens them up to escape and too tight can leave them uncomfortable. There's little he doesn't know about dogs. TopDog loves agility but is far too unfit to keep up. Offers advice and articles on dog harnesses, collars, travel, food and temperament. Is woeful at speaking foreign languages. Instead, they can prevent injuries from a dog getting tangled in their leash or pulling too hard with a collar. We consider them an excellent training aid that makes using a leash easier for both you and your pup. Many include other features that are handy, such as lift handles for dogs that need help standing. Type and Construction A Retriever is a good-sized dog, weighing anywhere from 50—80 ponds. Therefore, you need a harness that can control him and is durable enough to stand up to the challenge. There are several types, each one with its pros and cons. This style is an excellent choice for pups that get tangled in their leash because it keeps it away from their feet. The force of the leash goes to his back, instead. However, if your pooch is muscular with less-than-perfect leash manners, you may find him harder to manage with this type of harness. Front-Clip Harness The front-clip harness puts you in charge of your pup while requiring less work on your part. You can easily redirect him if necessary. The tightening harness takes care of that issue with a gentle tug that gets your Lab back on point. Just as with an unruly stallion, this type will give you control over your larger Retriever. Kind of Closure There are also several variations on the type of closure and how it secures on your Lab. It is the most popular option. There are also quick-release and bolt-on products. Material Nylon, by far, is the most common harness material. It offers a lot of advantages for Lab owners. They are lightweight. They will also dry quickly after a romp in the lake chasing a ball. These products are also affordably priced and excellent value for the money. You can get a blaze orange one for hunting and another in your choice of many colors and designs. Mesh is another popular choice for the same reasons. Another option for your water-loving pooch is neoprene for those winter walks. Other choices include polyester, canvas, and fleece. We prefer products that you can wash in between uses. A waterproof product is a welcome addition we appreciate. If you take your dog for evening walks, a reflective harness is a must-have. Other options you may find are padding over the chest portion for added comfort, personalization, and dual-clip items that you can attach in front or back. We liked the extra security that this last feature offers. However, the most important thing is comfort, especially if your pup pulls. Most products include a range of inches for each of the key measurements. A harness is not like buying a pair of pants for yourself. Many have different systems of adjusting the size. You need to take three measurements. Finally, you must find out the length of his back. Bear in mind that not all products will specify these three. Some only consider the chest size with adjusting parts for the others. We recommend two inches or the width of two fingers between the strap and your dog. The point is to make it snug to prevent escaping but not too tight to make your pup uncomfortable. After all, avoiding neck damage is one reason that pet owners opt to use a harness over a collar. We also suggest looking at the kind of adjustment on the harness. A sliding one with a clasp gives you a lot more leeway as opposed to a buckle, which has set holes. Of course, it is a fine balance between security on both ends of the spectrum. Its comfortable design was one of the most important features we considered. It provides the necessary snugness without the tightness that can make wearing it irritating. The Sporn Non-Pull Mesh Dog Harness is our pick for best value, thanks to its lightweight design that stands up to pullers. The research for our reviews taught us a vital lesson. These products are highly specialized for the dog, its leash manners, and the amount of control you must have over your Lab. These pups often make simple things like walks a challenge. However, with the right harness, it becomes a non-issue. Featured image credit: PxHere. Front and back Long lines are best attached from the back The back-attachment point is ideal for long lines. Attaching it to the front risks the entangling of the front legs. A front and back harness gives maximum flexibility. Double ended Two leash attachment points Using a back-attachment point lets you use a double-ended leash. A single-ended leash can tighten the harness when only attached to the front. Different harnesses have variable tightness degrees. One with front and back attachment reduces gaping by balancing tension. Clipping the leash attachments at two points sounds too much, but it is best. Optimal control comes from a properly fitted dog harness. Handling large pets become effortless. Material Material quality is the first factor. Nylon, polyester, and breathable hybrid materials are a few options. The harness must not put much pressure on the neck and throat. The pull should be evenly distributed throughout the chest and body. Look for a harness guaranteeing sturdiness and comfort. Strength A 6 month old lab can also drag you in public. Labradors are naturally inclined to swim, play and have high energy. Labs are famous military dogs. Dogs without no-pull training can be challenging to maintain in long walks. A harness with extra padding provides the required strength. Look for safety features, reliable buckles, and quality stitching only. Size Labradors are medium-sized dogs that mature at six months. But they grow after maturity too. A harness with an adjustable strap is handy. A labrador retriever continues to grow for two years. Opt for a flexible harness that can be adjusted. Adjustability Adjustability is a vital consideration for young pups. Adjustable harnesses fit any body type or size. Ensure the clips are adjustable and well-built. A strong and popular breed like a labrador can break cheap clips. Comfort Double padding is a must for both young and old dogs. A soft harness is comfortable and prevents injuries. Some are only made for running and keep your dog in great shape. Safety Safety features like reflective material is a must-have. It increases dog visibility during early morning or night walks. Labrador retrievers who are likely to escape are more secure with such features. Some come with attached handles for more security. It is easier to grab your pet if they take off. Harnesses with seat belt features are also becoming popular. Durability Durability becomes vital if you buy a harness for the lab puppy. Always pick harnesses with a higher durability rating. An extremely durable dog harness will last from puppyhood to adulthood. Go for fully adjustable ones for the best results. Cost Budget is essential but comes second to quality. Buying cheaper products will make you spend again. Though cheap pet products are pocket-friendly, they lack quality. Get a good harness instead of going for cheap ones. Soft vests are best for puppies and older labradors. A front, rear, or dual clip harness is great for adult labs. From dual clip to step-in harnesses, there are several. Labrador Vest Harness These are basic walk harnesses. They are simple, lightweight, and inexpensive and made of mesh, plastic, or nylon. Dog owners with well-behaved dogs on leashes can get these. But the front and back clip harness can be attached at all the points. A double-ended leash is required for the front clip attachment. One point is attached at the front and another at the back. It provides more control over your escape artist. A no-pull dog harness minimizes the pup pulls without hurting them. Tactical Dog Harnesses These are popular for training, trekking, and hunting. Besides labs, it is ideal for other dog breeds, like German Shepherds. Military and service dogs wear tactical harnesses often. Tightening and Control Harness These harnesses are more aggressive than standard ones. They will tighten when your dog pulls. Dog chests can be squeezed on tightening. Experienced trainers and dog handlers use them best. Not sure which chest piece is right for your dog? Our list comprises of the 10 best harnesses for labradors. They are made from sturdy material and have the necessary safety features. Now lets look at all the harnesses one by one. A good labrador harness requires time, effort, and patience to buy. Avoid cheap harnesses that can snap, fall apart, or break. Ensure the chest piece fits well and is not tight. The dog must move with ease wearing the harness. The no-pull harness alone is not enough. Train your labrador retriever for adequate results. Measure the neck and the chest for an accurate fit. Add two inches to the chest measurement in case your lab gains weight. Check the tightness after fastening the clips and buckles. Your two fingers must fit to ensure it is comfortable. If not, then it is too tight. But a harness is comfortable and makes training straightforward. Lab puppies may bite the leash too much initially. However, showing patience will go a long way. Here are a few tips to acclimatize dogs:- Positive reinforcement training is best to accustom your lab. Giving them treats or toys when they follow commands is beneficial. Start slow and small. Place the harness on the floor and let them explore. Let the dog get used to the buckles and leash. You can treat them for being brave and sniffing. Put on the harness if you see progress. Let the dog walk around wearing the harness. Even if it is for a few minutes, treat them. Start with small neighborhood strolls if the dog is confident. Increase the walk durations gradually for smoothness. Irrespective of their style, you need the best harnesses for effective energy management. These athletic dogs are up for everything from trekking to hunting. You need a high-quality harness for your lively pooch. The best harnesses for labradors are:- RabbitGoo is best if you want to control your large lab easily. Kurgo Tru-Fit Smart is for labradors having frequent car rides. Eagloo dog harness provides maximum comfort with its breathable material. Each harness offers unique features and benefits. The final call comes down to your requirements. Harnesses are better suited for walking dogs. Collars are more comfortable and hold the ID. Vets suggest using a harness for many dogs with breathing issues. Should a Labrador wear a harness? Labradors are athletic and sturdy. Having a harness makes them easier to manage. Be it walks, hikes, or treks, they are secured. What size harness for lab puppy is best? You will need at least a 9-inch long collar for a lab puppy. Most labrador retrievers fit into the large harness category. For accuracy, take labrador measurements. How do I stop my Labrador from pulling on the leash? Starting leash training with a harness early is suggested. Teach them self-control and practice attention. Treat them when the position is correct. Do not let pulling reinforce. Should I use a collar or harness for my Lab? Dog Harnesses are considered humane for pets. They give more control than collars. Different harness types also make it easier to choose for your lab pup. What size harness for 8 week lab puppy? The size range for a small harness for an 8-week-old Labrador puppy is: Chest: inches. The critical difference is the degree of dressing up required. This is a moment of personal reflection: do you have a tough time getting out of the house to take your Labrador for a walk? Minimizing the effort required to take your dog walking will ensure that you actually take him out. If your Labrador pulls on his lead, the pressure can quickly start producing irreversible damage. Can Trouble Dogs Even the most humane collars can bother some Labradors. Most new puppies might have trouble accepting a heavy collar. Starting with a light collar at an early age can offset this disadvantage. Some dog trainers can lead-train dogs with collars by building on a foundation of familiarity set by owners who get their dogs to accept light collars early on. This means both products need to be able to cater to different sizes. Most harnesses can house a range of body sizes. But when it comes to collars, your Labrador might start choking on the collar without you realizing it. Adjustable collars can offset this problem. In my opinion, even if you have compassionately trained your Labrador to accept his collar and even go on long walks with the lead attached to the said collar, what happens when your dog gets over-excited? It is quite literally impossible to hold him in position without choking him. Verdict on Dog Collars Dog collars are great to indicate ownership and protect your Labrador from being assumed and treated as a stray. Apart from that, I see no advantage in collars, especially when walking on a lead. So a nuanced approach would be to use a light collar and use a harness whenever you use a lead so that you can sidestep the dangers of lead walking a puppy with a collar. More importantly, your Labrador can pull the lead without hurting himself. More Room for Error If your Labrador puppy wears a collar, you need to follow his growth closely lest the collar begins choking him. Above all, it is more noticeable when your puppy outgrows his harness compared to when he outgrows his collar. In the worst-case scenario, you get to hold back your Lab with sheer force without hurting him as much. Tugging on a collar when your Labrador is trying his best to get away is heartless. That said, you should note that dogs give in more easily when their collar is tugged compared to holding back a harness. The ease, however, is mutually exclusive with kindness in this instance as a submission comes through the pain with a collar. In other words, a harness is something you would want on your pup only on walks. Most well-trained Labradors can go without a harness for short walks, and the harness is left for lead walks. Your Dog Will Take Time to Get Used to It This is a size-driven disadvantage that seems like a logical tradeoff when compared to the burden it offsets. I believe removing cruelty from the equation is well worth the relatively long waiting period. Starting with a light harness with a young Lab puppy is a perfect way to normalize it. Both collars and harnesses are uncomfortable initially, and in the long run, your dog can get used to both. While some trainers make arguments for collars, they are almost exclusively positioned as okay for larger dogs with stronger necks. This makes a harness your only option when out walking. Should a Labrador Wear a Harness? We have already established that harnesses are gentler than collars on Labradors. So, this may have you wondering, should Labradors wear a harness? A Labrador should wear a harness so that you can control him when he gets over-excited on a walk. A harness also allows your dog to keeps his neck safe when you have him on a tight leash. Doing the same with a collar could cause choking, damage to the trachea, or nerve damage. Harness vs. Collar For a Labrador Puppy Harness Advantages Prevents injuries to the neck Allows a lost dog to be identified from a tag Allows more control Easier to wear for tracking Allows room for growth. There is therefore no risk of the harness rubbing behind the legs. There are no martingale attachments anywhere on this harness, so there is nothing to tighten anywhere when the dog pulls. The Balance harness has both front-and-back attachment points. Just like all front-and-back attachment harnesses, this gives you great flexibility. The harness is really good quality and the metalware is likewise. This means that dogs that dislike having something placed over their heads, can have the Balance put around their neck in a similar way to a snap-up collar. Any gaping really is very minimal when both attachment-points are used, even less than on the Freedom. It is essentially always a black harness, but the vertical strap on the back comes in different colors. If you have multiple dogs, the colored back strap is sufficient for telling you which harness belongs to which dog. But if you are someone who loves different colored harnesses, the Balance may not suit — check out the Freedom. According to the manufacturer, you can attach just to the front-attachment point. But the Balance works best when used in conjunction with a double-fastening leash. So you will need to purchase one separately. The Balance harness does tend to rotate slightly when in use. The neck and girth straps slightly pull the colored back strap off vertical. If this troubles you, check out the Perfect Fit below. Similarly, it would be really hard for even a seasoned escapologist to back out of a Perfect Fit harness. For a growing Labrador puppy, it is possible just to purchase and replace one piece of the three needed for a harness. Should the chewing-machine that is your Labrador puppy, succeed in chewing through the front of the harness, again, just that part would need to be replaced. The Perfect Fit also has a 40mm thick option. This is a very comfortable and stylish-looking harness for large or strong Labradors. The Perfect Fit harness has both front-and-back attachment points, just like the Freedom and Balance, giving the same flexibility. It is safe to be left on the dog when running off-leash. The harness is webbing, backed by soft fleece. This makes for a really comfortable and soft harness, for your Labrador. This means that dogs which dislike having something placed over their heads, can have the Perfect Fit put around their neck. The front-attachment is a large metal D-ring. My plan is to wrap the metal D-ring in duck tape, to silence it. You will need to purchase one of those separately. I anticipate this getting worse with the next few washes. This does not affect the comfort or function of the harness, obviously. Labs love to swim, and have been known to roll in stinky things! Ordering Issues? Lastly, I should say that I had heard about the Perfect Fit harness for about a year before I finally bought one to trial. Selecting three different-sized component parts for a harness and choosing a width of strap is a much more involved process than choosing one size. The Dog-Games website has become a lot easier now, with breed recommendations, but some buyers might still find it confusing. And my top three picks of front-and-back fastening harnesses for Labrador Retrievers are:.

CHECK OUT 9 Things that are 4 meters long As your dog grows and begins to reach its adult weight, you can still use the weight method to figure out a rough collar size. When should a puppy first wear a collar? Some puppies may have already been wearing soft breakaway collars for training or to distinguish them from their littermates. This can make training, particularly leash training, much easier in the future. Collar Types There are several collar options available, and picking the right type is often as important as choosing the correct size. Leather collars are durable and stylish. Nylon collars are also comfortable for the dog and are available in a number of colors and patterns. Plastic collars are also available for dogs that tend to swim a lot or are frequently dirty. Harnesses are an excellent training tool for puppies that are just learning to walk on a leash. They can curb bad leash habits, such as pulling. Harnesses can be switched out for a collar as the dog grows, or you can upgrade to an adult harness size. Sharing is caring! Collar, Harness, Or Both? Lab puppies start tiny but grow up extremely fast. Every pup grows up at its own tempo. If it has started to get too constricting at that point — either loosen it up if possible or get a new collar. If you get a collar with a lot of resizing leeway, it can last you a few months. This is very easy to judge if you just stick a couple of fingers under the collar. The risk of keeping an overly loose collar on your dog should be clear — the dog will be able to back out of the collar. Many others, however, including a lot of labs, love to back out of their collars whenever possible. Adult Labrador Neck Size So, what size collar will your lab puppy end up wearing when it grows up? If your puppy is smaller than average it may grow into a smaller-than-average adult lab or it may just be a slow grower. Different Types Of Dog Collars For Labs The main non-cosmetic differences between dog collars are in the materials and the fastening mechanism. Plus, they always allow for multiple different size settings. As for materials, these are the basics: Metal — a lot of people love metal, especially for mid-sized to large breeds like Labradors. Leather — this is the classic choice for dog collars. Its main drawback is that it can get stinky over time. This is especially true if your dog loves to swim and Labrador retrievers are a water dog breed. Fabric collars can come in a lot of different designs and compositions. Some of the more colorful ones are especially fun for puppies. Synthetic polyurethane-type materials — these intuitively put off some people but are an excellent choice. Training collars used to be very popular at one point for both puppies and adult dogs. These collars take many different forms — they can be pronged, pinching, and electro-shock collars. Their idea is simple — teach your dog not to pull on its leash with the negative reinforcements of the collar. Dog harnesses today are viewed as a better and safer alternative to training collars. These are used mostly for training and for adult dogs, however. You should start using those as soon as your pup is big enough. The critical difference is the degree of dressing up required. This is a moment of personal reflection: do you have a tough time getting out of the house to take your Labrador for a walk? Minimizing the effort required to take your dog walking will ensure that you actually take him out. If your Labrador pulls on his lead, the pressure can quickly start producing irreversible damage. Can Trouble Dogs Even the most humane collars can bother some Labradors. Most new puppies might have trouble accepting a heavy collar. Starting with a light collar at an early age can offset this disadvantage. Some dog trainers can lead-train dogs with collars by building on a foundation of familiarity set by owners who get their dogs to accept light collars early on. This means both products need to be able to cater to different sizes. Most harnesses can house a range of body sizes. But when it comes to collars, your Labrador might start choking on the collar without you realizing it. Adjustable collars can offset this problem. In my opinion, even if you have compassionately trained your Labrador to accept his collar and even go on long walks with the lead attached to the said collar, what happens when your dog gets over-excited? It is quite literally impossible to hold him in position without choking him. Verdict on Dog Collars Dog collars are great to indicate ownership and protect your Labrador from being assumed and treated as a stray. Apart from that, I see no advantage in collars, especially when walking on a lead. So a nuanced approach would be to use a light collar and use a harness whenever you use a lead so that you can sidestep the dangers of lead walking a puppy with a collar. More importantly, your Labrador can pull the lead without hurting himself. More Room for Error If your Labrador puppy wears a collar, you need to follow his growth closely lest the collar begins choking him. Above all, it is more noticeable when your puppy outgrows his harness compared to when he outgrows his collar. In the worst-case scenario, you get to hold back your Lab with sheer force without hurting him as much. Tugging on a collar when your Labrador is trying his best to get away is heartless. That said, you should note that dogs give in more easily when their collar is tugged compared to holding back a harness. The ease, however, is mutually exclusive with kindness in this instance as a submission comes through the pain with a collar. In other words, a harness is something you would want on your pup only on walks. Most well-trained Labradors can go without a harness for short walks, and the harness is left for lead walks. Your Dog Will Take Time to Get Used to It This is a size-driven disadvantage that seems like a logical tradeoff when compared to the burden it offsets. I believe removing cruelty from the equation is well worth the relatively long waiting period. Starting with a light harness with a young Lab puppy is a perfect way to normalize it. Both collars and harnesses are uncomfortable initially, and in the long run, your dog can get used to both. While some trainers make arguments for collars, they are almost exclusively positioned as okay for larger dogs with stronger necks. This makes a harness your only option when out walking. Should a Labrador Wear a Harness? We have already established that harnesses are gentler than collars on Labradors. So, this may have you wondering, should Labradors wear a harness? A Labrador should wear a harness so that you can control him when he gets over-excited on a walk. A harness also allows your dog to keeps his neck safe when you have him on a tight leash. Doing the same with a collar could cause choking, damage to the trachea, or nerve damage. Harness vs. Collar For a Labrador Puppy Harness Advantages Prevents injuries to the neck Allows a lost dog to be identified from a tag Allows more control Easier to wear for tracking Allows room for growth. It is all rather bewildering, but there is no need to worry! This is where you can find the answers to those questions, and get some ideas and inspiration too. Collars are a great way to identify similar Lab puppies in a litter Labrador Dog Collars and the Law In many parts of the world, dogs must legally wear a collar when out in public. This is usually a disk attached to the collar, with your phone number and name on it. Collars can display IDs in a number of different ways. Some collars come with a brass or stainless steel plate attached to the surface, others have a metal ring for you to attach a tag onto. Others will embroider the ID into fabric or tool it into leather. Are Personalized Dog Collars Safe? But others feel that this is a dangerous thing to do. But most dogs are always supervised when outdoors, and many dogs are also microchipped so proof of ownership is more easily accomplished. Unless your dog is very friendly and spends time outdoors on his own, having his name on his collar is unlikely to put him at risk. Collars as a Fashion Statement A collar is the traditional way of attaching a restraint to a dog, for the purposes of keeping him safe. Before harnesses were invented this was an essential feature of life in a modern world, where cars and other hazards are everywhere. But in many homes and families, a collar has become something of a fashion statement too. A whole industry has arisen to meet the demand for different fabrics and styles. Training Collars for Labs Many people look on a collar, as an aid to training their dog how to walk on a leash. A way to get their dog to tread along nicely next to them, without dragging or pulling them along. They want to choose a collar that will best help them in this goal. Prong collars and pinch collars have been designed that are uncomfortable and even painful when a dog leans into them. The problem of course, is that pulling is often very rewarding for a dog he gets nearer to the destination he likes. So collars usually have to be quite painful if they are to successfully stop the pulling. Collars that can be used to pinch and choke dogs, are becoming less popular, as more and more dog owners want to train without using unpleasant aversives. And fortunately there are now excellent ways of teaching a dog to walk nicely without using collars at all. And in the meantime you might find it helpful to have a strong pulling dog fitted with a body harness that will give you more control without damaging his neck. Before you set off on a Labrador collar shopping expedition, you will need to think about sizes. And to know your Labrador neck size. Labrador Collar Size Not all collars are made in sizes large enough for an adult Lab. And one adult Lab will not have the same neck size as another. So you do need to whip out your tape measure in order to avoid disappointment Both my Labs have an 18 inch neck. They are medium build slim Labradors. But it really is best to measure. If you find it difficult to keep your dog still, just get someone to dip their fingers in some butter and let the dog lick it off while you take his measurements! Collars for adult Labs are usually about an inch wide — this allows enough space for a small ID plaque if desired. What Size Collar for a Lab Puppy? If you buy a puppy collar two or three inches longer than this it will last him a few weeks. Puppy collars are usually narrower than adult collars, half an inch is fine. And they come in some very cute designs. We have put together a collection of our favorite puppy collars to inspire you! So what kind of collar should you buy? Which Labrador Collar Style? We recommend that you buy your Labrador a flat collar with a buckle fastener. You can choose one to suit your taste and wallet. Especially if your Lab likes to swim. You can buy waterproof collars made from synthetic polyurethane type materials. Waterproof collars tend to resist odor and are easy to clean. They often come in striking bright colors — we love them and think they look cool! But not so loose that he can back out of it. You should be able to fit two or three fingers under it quite easily, but not much more. A collar that is too loose can be slipped by a lively dog very easily. It is also worth considering alternative forms of restraint. Especially for puppies and lively young dogs that can get very sore necks if leashed to a collar. Buying a Harness The breadth of choice in body harnesses for dogs has burgeoned in the last couple of years as people discover how great they are. A body harness is an excellent way to restrain a young dog that has not been taught to walk to heel. It has several advantages over a collar. It is almost impossible for the dog to slip out of. And most importantly, a puppy that wears a harness is not learning to lean into or pull, on his collar. However, we selected them for inclusion independently, and all of the views expressed in this article are our own.

Queen Elizabeth 1 organised special spectacles for visiting ambassadors and it is said she was personally very fond of this form of entertainment. When bull-baiting ceased to be as fashionable the British Bulldog fell into the hands of the lower classes and continued its barbarous cruelty. These blood sports were outlawed in the 19th Century. The result was a much friendlier and less aggressive character that made for a loyal companion and great choice as a family pet. The shorter faced and squatter dog we see today came about in the mid s and the breed first appeared in the show ring in .The Bulldog Standard the first dog standard published was drawn up in in England by a group of fanciers determined to ensure that the purity of this native breed was not diluted or amended and that the breed retained the characteristics required for its perceived function. They are a smooth coated dog that boast being thick set, broad and compact, standing low to the ground. The large face and head of this breed is its defining physical trait, together with their very pronounced undershot jaw, with canine teeth pointing upwards, making the British Bulldog one of the most recognised dogs in the world. Average Weight: Males 25 kg, Females 23 kg Temperament The British Bulldog is considered a national treasure in the UK and is known worldwide as the personification of determination and courage. They are especially good and tolerant around children of all ages, although they can get a little protective of them. The British Bulldog is a comical character, yet they can be extremely dignified too, which are just two of the traits that make the breed so endearing to owners the world over. Health The average life expectancy of the British Bulldog is between years, although some dogs have been known to live longer, especially when properly cared for and fed an appropriate, good quality diet to suit their ages. There are some myths about the health of the British Bulldog. The most common problems seen would be with the eyes: cherry eye bulging extra tissue showing from the conjunctiva ; entropion inward rolling eye lids , ectropion loose lower eyelids and ectopic cilia extra eye lashes along the lids , which can all cause irritation to the cornea and may require surgery. These conditions, if left unattended can result in dry eye, which requires ongoing daily treatment. Most British Bulldog puppies are born via caesarian section, due to the large heads that puppies have, and also due to narrow hindquarters, which makes it hard for dams to give birth naturally. As a brachycephalic breed, some Bulldogs have long soft palates and can experience breathing difficulties. Some may require surgery. Care should be taken with these dogs in the heat. Suitability "The Bulldog is renowned for being extremely tolerant and good around children of all ages. They can become very protective over family and children, which means you need to keep an eye on things when other people are about. British Bulldogs are known to be intelligent dogs, but with this said they have a bit of a stubborn streak and they are not that easy to train. However, in the right hands and with the correct amount of consistent training, starting when dogs are still young, the breed responds well to voice commands. British Bulldogs are very sociable and love to be around their family as much as possible. They do not respond well to being left on their own for long periods. Grooming As a general rule the breed is easy to look after because they have nice, short coats. This means a weekly brush will not only keep their skin and coats in good condition, but it will help keep any shed hair under control. This is best done with a damp, not wet, cloth before towelling dry. Some have very tightly curled tails and these need to be regularly checked, cleaned and an ointment applied if necessary. Over bathing can result in an imbalance of the naturals oils found in their coat and skin, which could lead to an irritation and skin allergies. Exercise As with every dog, British Bulldogs need to be given regular daily exercise, but you have to be careful how much exercise these dogs are given during the hotter summer months. This breed does require special attention during hot weather due to them being a brachycephalic breed. British Bulldogs have short noses, which makes it harder to regulate their core body temperature in the heat. They must be left in a well ventilated, shaded area and kept cool and quiet with plenty of access to water. They should be checked often and left undisturbed on hot days. Cool mats and shallow wading pools can be useful in hot weather. The breed do have a tendency to put on weight all too easily and will happily become couch potatoes if they are allowed. This is especially true of older more mature dogs. These are a medium-sized breed with a muscular build and stocky legs. Their hallmark feature is the many folds that form around their faces and foreheads. Can we meet in person? Have they been socialised? Full Chocolate Suit. Very rare. Fully vaccinations and chipped. Very good-natured and house-trained, but too excitable for my month-old daughter so we can't have her in the house much anymore. It's not fair on her so looking for a new home. Russell Gallagher Frank the handsome bulldog Frank is born on the .English Bulldogs temperaments are outgoing. They are a calm, people-oriented breed that's loyal, intelligent, and also great with children. Bulldogs are devoted to their families and make excellent watchdogs because of their courageous nature. Most English Bulldogs are friendly toward strangers and get along well with other pets. Like all dogs, the Bulldog should be properly socialized during puppy hood to ensure that they grow up to be well-rounded and easygoing. Training an English Bulldog isn't difficult. We can't wait to help you find the perfect addition to your home. They are very friendly and very happy babies! Puppies have be bought up on the best premium diets available to both mother and young. Serious enquiries only. D - Father of the puppies is a full UK import, with incredible bloodlines. His family tree is available to view and we have all the details of 5 generations. Mums family tree is also available and has 3 generations. Both parents are DNA clear. We are a boutique family run breeding program. We own mum and dad and you can meet them when you come to view puppies. All will be ANKC registered. Mains papers only considered for the correct candidates. We welcome you to come and visit the puppies. Puppies are ready to go to their forever homes on June 6th. Any questions welcomed. If interested please contact me. Victor Ollie just turned 1 in November,purebred British bulldog has desexed, he will sit and wait for his food until ordered to eat,living with young age baby, looking for genuine loving home. Both parents can be seen. No time wasters please. Puppy must be seen to be appreciated fully. Well socialised with young children and other dogs delivery can be arranged Jeremy Glaros bulldog pups pure breed All the pups are microchipped vet checked wormed and all have had first lot of needles all the pups weight about 9 kilos and above Johnson and Scott in the litter and ready to go to a new home Microchip numbers: Pet Exchange Register Source Number: MB Greg British Bulldog Puppies We have available 3 British Bulldog puppies 12 weeks old Vaccinated Vet check and microchipped, Worming all up to date. Mother and father are in a petite size range as adult size. Animal welfare source number: EE Microcip numbers: ,,,,, Zara Daneliuc Sweet Temperament British Bulldogs Awaiting 5star A lot of love, care and time has been invested in our dogs due to our passion for the breed. They are OUR family. We very much concentrate on breeding healthy lines and our litters are carefully thought. Our dogs are full breed profile health DNA tested reassuring our pups live a healthy long life. J British bulldog x British French bulldog PRICE FIRM RPBA Beautiful puppies 3 females 1 male ready to go 24 July mum is British bulldog dad British bulldog x French bulldog puppies have been wormed from two weeks old they are very beautiful please will only reply to calls or sms no time wasters parents are very spoil family pets very smart and friendly puppies will be ideal family Maria.

Rabies Vaccine Rabies is a viral infection caused by a virus secreted in the saliva. According to the Humane Society , because the infection affects the nervous system, most rabid animals behave abnormally. When should puppies get rabies shots? Generally speaking, puppies should get their first rabies shot around 16 weeks of age and again between years old. Rabies Vaccine Schedule for Puppies 1st shot: weeks Booster: every 3 years Non-core Vaccines Non-core vaccines are important, but they are considered optional for dogs with less risk of infection. Non-core vaccines are recommended based on lifestyle and where you live or travel. Bordetella Bordetella bronchiseptica is a bacterium associated with respiratory disease in dogs and is known to cause the most severe form of kennel cough. Symptoms of an upper respiratory infection include nasal discharge, sneezing, coughing, congestion, etc. Some veterinarians may recommend Bordetella as a core vaccine for puppies based on their living environment, especially for social dogs who spend time in areas where they might come into contact with the bacteria like the dog park, boarding facilities, or doggy daycare. The vaccination can be given orally, intranasally, or by injection. Bordetella Vaccine Schedule for Puppies 1st shot: weeks Booster: every year Leptospira Leptospirosis is a bacterial disease caused by infection of the genus Leptospira, which are found in water and soil. The zoonotic disease spreads easily from animals to humans and is more common in warm climate areas with high annual rainfall; the Leptospira vaccine may be considered core in these areas. Signs of leptospirosis may include shivering, fever, muscle tenderness, increased thirst, dehydration, diarrhea, vomiting, lethargy, jaundice, kidney failure, liver failure, etc. Leptospira Vaccine Schedule for Puppies 1st shot: weeks 3rd shot: 1 year Booster: every year There is also a 5-way vaccine known as DHLPP, which is a combination vaccine of distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, parainfluenza, and parvo. Lyme disease Lyme disease is caused by infection with the bacterium Borrelia burgdorferi which is transmitted through the bite of infected ticks. The most common symptoms in dogs include loss of appetite, lameness, joint swelling, swollen lymph nodes, and fatigue. More serious cases can also develop kidney complications. The Lyme disease vaccine is highly recommended for dogs that live in or frequently travel to areas known for Lyme disease, as well as those living in areas with a high risk of tick exposure. Lyme Vaccination Schedule for Puppies 1st shot: weeks 2nd shot: weeks later Booster: every year Canine Influenza Canine influenza, or dog flu, is a contagious viral infection affecting dogs. The virus is spread through aerosols or droplets containing respiratory secretions from barking, sneezing, and coughing. Dogs in close contact with infected dogs in places like daycare facilities, groomers, and kennels are at a higher risk of contracting the disease. CIV causes an acute respiratory infection in dogs, with the most common clinical sign being a cough that persists for up to 21 days. Vaccines are available for both H3N2 and H3N8 canine influenza. A bivalent vaccine offering protection against both strains is available as well. Dogs become infected when they swallow the parasite that may be present in water or other substances that have been soiled with feces leading to the disease Giardiasis. Giardia in dogs usually causes diarrhea, weight loss, or even death. Giardia is an available vaccine for puppies 8 weeks of age and older for 6 months of immunity against giardiasis. Most common symptoms include vomiting, diarrhea, and loss of appetite. Young dogs are at a high risk of contracting the disease, so the vaccine is highly recommended for puppies under eight weeks. Rattlesnake vaccine A rattlesnake vaccine can help dogs build antibodies to rattlesnake venom from bites that are often deadly and severely painful to dogs. The antibodies work to neutralize the venom, thereby significantly extending the window of time you have to take your dog to the emergency room , increasing their odds of survival. Protect yourself from heartbreak without breaking the bank. Compare quotes to find the best deal for your budget. After that, puppies should receive a series of vaccines every two to four weeks until actual protein can be achieved between the ages of 6 and 20 weeks old. Your vet will determine a safe vaccine schedule for your puppy based on their weight, health, age, etc. Some pet parents prefer getting multiple puppy shots in one vet visit to minimize stress on their pet, whereas others prefer to spread the shots out to reduce possible side effects and soreness — talk to your vet to create a safe vaccine schedule that works for you and your puppy. Rabies depends on local laws but is usually given by the time your dog reaches 3 to 6 months old. When should puppies have all their shots by? Most vets prefer giving the final DHPP shot at 16 weeks or later; however, new recommendations suggest up to 20 weeks out. When do puppies need booster shots? Abstaining from booster shots can put your puppy at risk. However, not all vaccines require yearly boosters. DHPP vaccine booster: every two weeks for a total of three sets, then every three years Lepto, Canine influenza, and Lyme disease vaccine booster: one month after the initial series, then annually Bordetella booster: 1 year or every 6 months where there is a concern Rabies booster: every 1 to 3 years after the initial round, depending on state laws Puppy Vaccine Schedule There are several types of puppy shots your pet might get in their first year. In addition to a deworming schedule, your vet will suggest a vaccination schedule for puppies based on their age, environment, and medical history. Most vets recommend this general timeline for first-year puppy shots: weeks of age Between 6- and 8-weeks-old, puppies get their first shot of the DHPP distemper, hepatitis, parainfluenza, parvovirus vaccine. They might also receive their first round of vaccinations for Bordetella and Lyme disease. Leptospira Lepto is a common puppy vaccination administered around this time frame. They'll also get their first rabies vaccine depending on state-mandated vaccine schedules for puppies, as well as a second shot of the Lepto vaccine if applicable. Boosters Every Years Puppies will need a booster shot for all vaccines at age 1. Dogs need booster vaccinations for Bordetella, Lepto, Lyme, and Giardia annually receiving their first immunization as an adult. The vaccination schedule for DHPP and rabies is every 3 years, but check your local laws and defer to your veterinarian's advice to ensure your pet stays free of disease. How much are puppy shots? Non-essential vaccines your vet may recommend will also increase the price. Note that puppy shots cost more or less depending on several different factors, including your location. For instance, vets in crowded urban areas tend to charge more than vets in smaller towns and rural areas. Also keep in mind that you'll need to budget for booster shots in one- or three-year intervals to ensure your pet stays protected from disease. Fortunately, vaccines for dogs are less expensive than first-year puppy shots because boosters are administered in one dose every few years, as opposed to multiple doses every few weeks. All puppies need to get the core vaccines, i. Your veterinarian will consider the risk factors and advise you on which vaccines are best for your puppy during the first vet visit. No, but both vaccines for puppies are often combined in one shot. Distemper and parvovirus are two different illnesses that are potentially fatal if not treated quickly. What is the 5-in-1 shot for puppies? Do puppies need 3 or 4 sets of shots? It depends on their age; vets may recommend a shorter puppy vaccination schedule for dogs over 16 weeks old and not yet fully vaccinated. How many shots do puppies need before going outside? A titer test is a blood test showing whether your puppy has antibodies for a particular illness. The test can be used to determine the effectiveness of a vaccine and help determine if or which booster vaccines your dog needs. Most doggy daycares and boarding facilities do not accept a titer test in lieu of a puppy vaccination record. When should puppies get dewormed? Because worms are very common in puppies, veterinarians recommend deworming them for the first time when they're two to three weeks old. Is there a heartworm vaccine for puppies? Preventatives can either be administered as monthly medication or every six months by injection. How can you save money on puppy shots? One way to save money on puppy vaccines is by visiting a low-cost vaccination clinic. These clinics typically offer packages that combine a bundle of vaccinations into a lower price point, but also offer individual options if your dog is due for a specific vaccine. Another way to save money on puppy shots is by purchasing a pet wellness plan through a pet insurance provider. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. German Shepherd Puppy Health Protocol Vom Banach K9 puppy worming and vaccination schedule All Vom Banach K9 puppies are healthy, happy, vibrant individuals that have been very well socialized, handled and loved from the moment they were born. All photography by Cindy Fike, Fike Fotography. Below is our protocol for worming and vaccination of puppies here at Vom Banach K9, and our recommendations for puppies from birth through adulthood. Nemex-2 is 4. This product is for heartworm prevention as well as the monthly control of other internal parasites. Vaccines should be given in the right front quadrant right shoulder. Rabies should be given in the right rear quadrant right hip. The reason for this is should there be a local reaction to a vaccine or a lump develop later in these areas you will know which vaccine caused these reactions. When I record the vaccines in the Health Record I peel the sticker off of the original vaccine vial and attach it to the lower portion of the Health Record. I record the date, location the vaccine was given, vaccine sticker and initial. I do let clients also know should they later feel a small pea to marble sized lump in that region that it could be as a result of a vaccine. This is what I give here before puppies go home. I like to give it at 7 weeks to allow time for the vaccine to kick in as opposed to doing it at 8 weeks when a puppy may be leaving. I do not like to hyper-vaccinate by doing Lepto and Corona on their first vaccine also it is recommended that Lepto be given ONLY after 10 weeks of age and not before, so do not vaccinate with Lepto under 10 weeks of age. Kennel cough is easily transmitted from dog to dog by contact with a contaminated animal, on the ground, or in a facility where affected dogs have been in such places as dog parks, pet stores, veterinary hospitals, boarding facilities and cargo facilities where animals are shipped. We vaccinate all of our puppies here at 8 weeks of age or before they go to their new homes to aid in the prevention of kennel cough and your Vom Banach K9 puppy becoming infected during those first few weeks where the puppy may be traveling or in infected areas. We recommend a kennel cough booster be given every 6 months if you are frequently in contact with common grounds and unknown dogs. It is a virus similar to Parvo but not as severe. I would check with your vet to see what they recommend for your area. Corona is a puppy virus and does not need to be re-boostered or vaccinated in adult dogs. In puppies however you need 2 boosters of it same as with Lepto. I absolutely recommend vaccinating against Lepto. Lepto is a bacteria. Leptospirosis is spread commonly by infected rodents and raccoons and passed through the contact with urine it is as well very contagious to humans. It is common in our state and many others. The Lepto vaccine has very few side effects clinically with the Large breed dogs. There is a higher risk of side effects to smaller breeds. Life saving vaccinations far outweigh the risk of possible side effects from the actual killed modified vaccine for this disease. Please check with your area for Rabies requirements in your state. Puppies should be at least 12 weeks of age to be administered a Rabies vaccine. Prior to 12 weeks it may be rejected by the immune system due to the puppies own immunities from its mother so the puppy would not be fully protected from the disease. Because Rabies is required by LAW in many States, Rabies can only be given to puppies over 12 weeks of age for this reason and in order to receive a Certificate of Immunization. Because your puppy will be 4 months old by his last scheduled puppy series vaccine it would be too soon to re vaccinate at the 1 year birthdate giving him his adult 1st booster only 8 months after his last puppy vaccine instead of a year from the last scheduled vaccine date. I recommend one booster at 3 years of age and then a titer test to determine if vaccination is needed for specific viruses and for prevention against hyper-vaccination of adult dogs thereafter. Guidelines should be followed for recommendations for Rabies in your state. A titer is a blood test performed by your veterinarian in order to determine the presence of antibodies that develop in the body as a result of vaccines. A vaccine titer reveals whether or not the animal currently has adequate protection against a disease. Low titers indicate that vaccination will be necessary to provide immune protection. Puppies who may be staying longer may not receive the same schedule as those leaving at the weeks of age. I may vaccinate them later then the initial 7 week vaccine so I then follow a vaccine protocol from the date of the initial vaccine giving subsequent vaccines every 4 weeks thereafter for the remaining two vaccines. Because both Corona and Lepto need two boosters following the initial one is why I recommend puppies receive two more vaccines in addition to rabies after leaving here. I also discuss vaccines with my clients when I give go home instructions. And I hope it mostly sinks in. I think it is very important when they take their new puppy to their vet that they bring the record and be sure they are given the correct vaccinations and only the ones that are needed. I think it is important to be on the same page with your vet that puppies are not over-vaccinated. Quick Find. Discover the online program that more than 57, dog owners have used to rapidly transform their dog into a well-behaved, obedient furry friend. Your German Shepherd puppies health should be of utmost concern to you. You want a healthy German Shepherd puppy that is free of parasites and on good food. Nutrition is very important - especially in the first year of life - but so are vaccinations. There are many diseases that the GSD puppy may come in contact with and it is these puppy vaccinations that helps your puppy to build resistance to these viral attacks. Keep in mind, a little prevention can go a long way to keep your dog healthy. It is also suggested that all puppies be vaccinated for rabies at six months and then to be repeated annually. Although your German Shepherd puppy may squirm or even cry when getting its puppy vaccinations, it is just as important for your GSD puppy as it is for your children to receive these "annual shots". In fact, by carefully keeping up to date on all your puppies vaccinations, you could be saving its life. Though there are multiple ailments, bacterias and viruses your dog may come in contact with, I will attempt to briefly list and describe only a few of the more common ones in this GSD puppy article that can be prevented with puppy vaccinations. As always, German Shepherd puppy vaccinations are the best preventive method - a little prevention can go a long way to keep your puppy healthy. Parvovirus parvo. This is a very serious disease. It attacks the intestinal system and is a viral disease in dogs. Parvo is characterized by severe, bloody diarrhea and vomiting, high fever and lethargy. The diarrhea is particularly foul smelling and is sometimes yellow in color. Parvo can also attack a dog's heart causing congestive heart failure. Remember, without medical treatment, most puppies will die from Parvo. Distemper : This disease attacks every tissue in the body and may occur through inhalation of the virus in a contaminated area. Death is common and dogs and who recover may have future nervous damage. Again, simple puppy vaccinations are the best prevention. Spread through contact with contaminated urine or feces. Often affected animals will have chronic health problems and recovered dogs will pass infected urine for months after infection. Again, vaccinations are the best preventive method. Leptospirosis Lepto. Affect the liver and kidneys and can be transmitted to man via contact with the urine of an infected dog. Signs such as vomiting and thirst, bloody diarrhea, depression, and jaundice may occur. Antiobiotic treatment is important though the best prevention is through vaccination. Transmitted through the saliva of an infected animal, rabies is another disease that may be spread to humans. The disease affects the nervous tissues and causes paralysis and death always. Again, vaccinations are your best weapon against this disease. Below find a brief listing of other common problems of which you should be aware. Kennel cough. Symptoms of kennel cough are a constant wheezing cough. Highly contagious as well! Other symptoms to watch for in your German Shepherd puppy: Vomiting. Occasional vomiting is not uncommon but consult your vet if the problem persists or if blood, diarrhea or pain accompany the vomiting. Can be caused by a number of things- viruses, food, internal parasites, and bacteria to name a few. Contact the vet if the stool is bloody, continues for an excessive amount of time, or if dehydration occurs. Once your pup has recovered, return it to its food slowly and in decreased but frequent portions. Can be caused by multiple factors also such as insufficient water intake, disease or ingestion of a foreign substance. While your vet may have to take blood tests to find the cause, usually a diet high in fiber and exercise will help prevent this problem. Not to scare you in any way, I do hope this information will assure you of just how important those puppy vaccinations are to your German Shepherd puppies and your health. Proper immunizations are the best prevention in the endless war on disease and may save your puppy, and yourself, a lot of discomfort, grief and pain- and possibly even death. Here's to healthy and happy puppy owning. Return from Puppy Vaccinations to Puppy Information "Children and dogs are as necessary to the welfare of the country as Wall Street and the railroads. FYI German Shepherds Puppy Immunization Schedule The vaccines, treatments, and tests listed below are the current protocols we follow here at Gunbil German Shepherds to provide optimum health care for our dogs. Newborn puppies acquire immunities against many diseases by nursing from their mother. During the first two days of life, a puppy that nurses takes in the colostrum that is present in the milk that is first produced. These antibodies prevent the puppy from being infected by diseases like Canine Distemper and Parvo virus. These same antibodies are also the reason veterinarians suggest vaccinations to be given after six weeks of age. It is highly recommended that new puppies visit a veterinarian as soon as possible. The veterinarian will then educate the owner on the needs of the new puppy, look for congenital defects as well as look for signs of parasitic or viral infections. Those for the rest of these diseases are freeze-dried living virus that have been grown in tissue culture in a way that makes them non-pathogenic i. Actually, a single injection, at the right time, of all these live products imparts good, long lasting immunity to all of these diseases. The problem is that puppies absorb antibodies against these diseases from their mothers. In some puppies, parental immunity is low enough that by weeks the vaccination to work. In others, parental immunity interferes with the action of the vaccine for up to 18 weeks. The tests that determine parental immunity levels in puppies are expensive and rarely run. So because we do not know just when to vaccinate we give a series of three or four injections so that at least one of them will work. We only give Coronavirus vaccine to puppies because it is a disease of puppies. For subcutaneous vaccination of healthy dogs 6 weeks of age or older as an aid in the prevention of disease caused by canine distemper, infectious canine hepatitis, canine adenovirus type 2, canine coronavirus, canine parainfluenza and canine parvovirus. Administer one 1 mL dose subcutaneously. Primary Vaccination: A recommended vaccination schedule should start at or about 6 weeks of age. The presence of maternal antibody is known to interfere with the development of active immunity. Puppies should be revaccinated every 2 to 3 weeks until 12 weeks of age. All dogs over 12 weeks of age should initially receive one dose of Duramune Max 5-CvK and a second dose 2 to 3 weeks later. Leptospira Canicola-Grippotyphosa-Icterohaemorrhagiae-Pomona Bacterial Extract For subcutaneous vaccination of healthy dogs 6 weeks of age or older as an aid in the prevention of disease caused by canine distemper, infectious canine hepatitis, canine adenovirus type 2, canine coronavirus, canine parainfluenza and canine parvovirus. Annual Vaccination: Annual revaccination with one dose is recommended. Where we live we are not required to have our dogs on Heartworm preventive medication as the disease is not in our geographical location. Please do not use our website to attempt to diagnose or treat your pet. The consultation with your veterinarian is the best source of health advice for your individual pet. You should not rely, on the veterinary advice or any other information provided on this site for the diagnosis or treatment of any specific condition. You should always consult your own veterinarian for specific advice concerning the medical condition or general treatment of your pet.

Clean Accidents Properly Mini poodles should poop at least once a day. The exact number of visits to the bathroom can be anywhere between 1 and 5 as it is dependent on several factors. Dogs are a creature of routine and will stick to their schedule in all aspects of life. This means that they will eat, sleep, and poop at the same time every day. Hence, you need to make their timetable and follow it strictly to avoid unwanted accidents. It will also help you to potty train your dog because you will be prepared. Most owners will need weeks to potty train their pups. However, a slight variation can be observed based on your experience level and the breed you adopted. Poodles are known to be a little stubborn so they might take some extra time, especially with new owners. Your dog will soon understand the training and learn to behave properly. How to Potty Train Mini Poodles? Adopted a new poodle puppy and worried about housetraining your little friend? Read on to get detailed instructions about potty training mini poodles. This is because poodles can recognize patterns and will set themselves accordingly. This routine will make the training a lot easier because you will be able to predict when your canine friend needs to go. It will allow you to take them outside before an accident could happen. Poodles give away certain signs to show that they need to poop. For example, walking in circles and sniffing the ground are the most common ones. Take Your Dog Outside You will need to guide your dog outside every hours unless a routine is set. If not, you should take them back immediately and re-schedule the trip to the toilet after 30 minutes. This practice must be repeated for a few days so that a pattern could be established. This will help the poodle to learn faster and follow the rule. Appreciate the Good Work Positive reinforcement is one of the most effective strategies to train a dog. You can also offer a treat as a reward. It will quicken the learning process because your pup will have a motivation to repeat the behavior. Other than the basic training steps, some additional tips can prove quite handy. Some of these guidelines are discussed below. Use a Verbal Cue Dogs can learn things quicker when they can associate sounds with actions. However, you should have a unique word for each instruction to avoid any confusion. Therefore, all the family members must use the same cue for housebreaking to help your mini poodle. You should use a short phrase and it must be something that can be said in public. This will strengthen their muscles and increase their limit to hold. You can use the crate when you are expecting long hours at work. Give Your Poodle Sufficient Time Some dogs eliminate as soon as they reach the spot while others can take a few minutes to poop. Hence, you should wait for a few minutes before bringing your pup back inside. Clean Accidents Properly Accidents can be minimized but they will happen, especially during the training days. You will need enzymatic cleaners because canines have a very powerful sense of smell. They will be able to smell something fishy even if everything looks clean. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Maintain this schedule for at least three weeks before decreasing the number of potty breaks. Establishing good habits takes time, but consistency will teach your pup to trust and depend on you. Use a Leash Using a leash during potty training kills two birds with one stone. But, you can also use these short sessions to reinforce leash training by giving treats for staying close, not pulling, and for walking in a straight line. Pro tip: Even if you have a fenced-in backyard, teach your dog to go potty along the fence line or near bushes. Pooping in low-foot traffic areas will save you and houseguests from stepping in poop in the future. While praise is a reward in itself your dog just wants to make you happy, after all , treats are an excellent motivator. Take your pup to a dog-friendly indoor place. Common dog-friendly locales include: Pet stores Farm supply and feed stores Breweries and wineries Make sure to bring clean-up supplies in the event of an accident poop bags, paper towels, and Clorox wipes. Let your pup relieve themselves outside before you go inside, walk your pup around the store while reinforcing and rewarding good leash behavior , and take them back outside just in time for another potty break. Plus, you can get in some valuable leash training and socialization time. A chocolate Toy Poodle eating from a ceramic bowl Potty Pads are Your Friend During the first few weeks of puppy parenthood, accidents are inevitable. In the meantime, place potty pads in strategic locations around the house. Regular treats can be high-calorie, and even cut into small pieces, they can still be pretty calorie-dense. Create and Maintain a Safe Space Before you bring your pup home for the first time, make sure they have a safe space to sleep, get comfortable, eat, and play with their toys in peace. Provide treats for going inside, and begin closing the door for short periods to acclimate them to the space. This early reinforcement is critical for: Reinforcing that their crate is a safe space That being alone is okay Start small: Leave your pup in their safe space for five minutes three times per day and at bedtime on the first day. Repeat this for a second day, and increase the sessions by five minutes every other day until your dog can calmly and without accidents stay in its crate for an hour. But, the time spent is worth every minute: After a few weeks of intensive training, your pup will be a seasoned master of outside potty breaks! My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More. Learn more » Bringing home a new poodle, whether an adult or a puppy, is an exciting and life-changing adventure. Potty training is a long process that requires patience and commitment. The key to successfully housebreaking your new puppy is positive reinforcement and consistency. With a little help from your friends here at Hepper, your poodle can be fully potty trained in just a few months. Keep reading to find our tips on how to make the potty training process as easy as possible for both you and your pooch. Before 12 weeks, puppies are still developing the muscles they need to hold their urine and feces. After your poodle reaches 3 months of age, you can increase the intervals to the same number of hours as their age in months. Your goal for potty training should be to go above and beyond by instilling in them the importance of eliminating in a designated area. Choose somewhere in your yard where your pup can feel safe and somewhere that will be accessible in all seasons. The corner of your lot by the fence might be okay in the summer, but will your poodle want to wade through the snow to get there in the winter? Take them to the same spot every time you take them outside to go potty. Put your dog on a leash whenever you take them outside to the bathroom. Reward, Never Punish Praise and rewards go a long way with any animal. While praise and words of encouragement are rewards themselves, treats are one of the best training tools you should have in your potty training arsenal. When your poodle eliminates in the appropriate place, offer praise and a reward immediately. You can also begin implementing clicker training at this point by marking the positive action urination or defecation with a click and then a treat. Punishment is never an acceptable training method. Outdated techniques recommend hitting your dog with a newspaper, raising your voice at them and telling them how bad they are, or rubbing their face in their own urine or defecation. Dogs do not associate these harmful behaviors with doing something wrong. All punishment does is teach your puppy to be afraid of you. You may not be able to smell the remains with your human nose, but you can best bet your pup can. These can be purchased from any pet store and will be your best friend as you wade through the challenges that potty training a puppy can present. You can even try creating your own at home with ingredients you probably already have on hand, like white vinegar and baking soda. Not only does it permanently remove the very worst smells and stains yes, everything you can imagine! Click here to get yourself a bottle. Approach Potty Pads Carefully Potty pads can be a useful potty training tool in some situations. Allowing your puppy to use a potty pad inside your home can cause confusion about where it is appropriate to eliminate, dragging out the potty training process. If you must use potty pads, designate one area of your home where your puppy can relieve itself and put the pads there. You might put down several pads at first but then begin to reduce the number you lie down as your puppy gets used to this area being their spot to eliminate. Make sure you take them to the potty pads often to help them connect the dots that they are to be used for peeing and pooping. Constant Supervision Constant supervision is one of the essential parts of successful potty training. Some dogs will be able to hold it longer than others, and some will need to go to the bathroom whenever they play or get too excited. The most common signs your dog needs to pee or poop include: Sniffing around. Poodle Puppy House Training Overview While housebreaking a puppy may feel like a huge obstacle that is time-consuming at best and an undertaking that may fail at worst, there are definitely things that you can do to set your Poodle puppy up for success for potty training. There are 2 main elements: Having a clear plan in mind that will encourage a pup to learn quickly Having reasonable expectations based on the age of your Poodle In this section, we will go over all of the important steps for effective and fast training. Age to House Train This is most certainly not something that you will want to put off. Whether you have a brand-new Poodle puppy or an older, adopted dog that needs to learn, it is best to begin right away. Every day that this is not taught, is another day that the dog has wrong information about what to do and this just in and of itself will make housebreaking harder. Keep in mind that new puppies should not be brought outside to public areas or even your yard if there is a chance that other dogs have been there until the full rounds of puppy vaccinations are complete. Each vet schedule is slightly different; however, in general this is done by about the 4 month mark. If you are not sure, check with your vet. Having a Housebreaking Plan It's not uncommon for a puppy to pee or have a bowel movement with very little warning. And without a plan in place, this is when you'll see owners scrambling and picking up the pup while he dribbles urine as he's being carried out the door. While you will not catch every accident, you really will have much better success when you and all members of the family have a clear potty training plan in place. We would suggest reviewing what is needed, obtaining all of the necessities to be properly prepped, and then beginning. What is Needed Before You Begin There are a few things that you will need in order for housebreaking to be successful: 1 A supervision method. This is vital. Puppies or dog that have free rein in the house will be exceptionally hard to train. When you are home and are able to have your Poodle right by your side, use the tethering method. This means that your Poodle will be wearing a harness not a collar, since this can cause neck injury and will be on leash. The leash should be short and it should have a soft-looped handle, so that you can weave this through your belt loop or slip it over your wrist. When you are not home, or if you are home but cannot keep your Poodle near you, you'll need to keep your puppy or dog in a defined, secure area. Crates are not recommended; these are terribly confining and can cause a dog to feel both physically and emotionally stressed. Furthermore, they do not help with housebreaking; a dog will pee and poo when they need to. Gating off an entire room is also not recommended. This is too large of an area to do really do anything, and therefore there will still be pee and poo everywhere. One of the best methods is to use an indoor canine playpen. These are sturdy, open-top pens that allow a Poodle to move around, play, have all his favorite belongings food, water, toys, bed , but also keep messes contained. As a side note, these are great for separation anxiety, as they offer a secure 'den' that keeps all of a Poodle's aids right by them. And, these are perfect for the teething phase to keep a Poodle puppy from chewing apart the house. Recommended playpens to help with house training are below. These can be found with or without doors, and range from 24" ideal for toy and miniature Poodles to 48" better for standards, especially if continued to be used as the puppy grows. If you do not see the images, try a refresh. And on mobile, you may need to turn your screen horizontal to see all 4. Giving a Poodle incentive to do something applies to potty training, perhaps, more than it does with any other single action. Once something is a learned behavior, it become automatic though it is still nice to reinforce good behavior now and again. For housebreaking to happen quickly, you need to 1 give super-happy praise and simultaneously 2 offer the right type of reward. The training treat should be: New - It should not be something that you give to your Poodle for regular snacks. If you've found a great, all-natural and healthy snack that you'd like to keep giving, see if it comes in a different flavor. Small - House training treats need to be small. A puppy needs immediate satisfaction, and you cannot achieve this with something that a dog needs to sit down to chew on. Extra flavorful - It should be appealing to a Poodle sense of smell and sense of taste, offering a burst of flavor that will encourage the desire for more. And 'more' can only happen when the Poodle goes to the bathroom in the right area. Below are our top recommended training treats. And on mobile, you may need to turn the screen horizontal to see all 4. Dogs that are simply brought 'outside' for bathroom needs rarely have a good, clear understanding of what is expected. If they are out there long enough, they may very well go to the bathroom. However, your goal should be going above this and instilling the full concept of having one area for urination and elimination needs. Choose the area wisely; what may seem like a great spot in the summer may not work well in the winter. The bathroom area should be close to the home, not a spot that is used for anything else play area, gardening, etc. Within the chosen area, allow your Poodle to choose the exact spot that he prefers. Dogs that have a choice learn much faster and are more eager to follow the rules. It is best to stand in the middle of the area with your puppy on a 6 to 8 foot leash. Allow him to circle around and, sniff. Some will then need time for the bladder to relax or for the bowel muscles to push out stool. Since young puppies have weak bladder and bowel muscles, they can often pee or poo with very little warning. Whatever you need in order to bring your Poodle outside should be ready at the exit door. This will include a pair of shoes, an appropriate coat or jacket depending on the weather, clothing for your Poodle - should there be a need, an umbrella in case it is raining, a leash and even a book or magazine to thumb though while you wait. For the times that you are home, you will want to bring your Poodle to the designated area at the following times: First thing in the morning Any time right after the puppy wakes up from a nap Every 2 hours for a 2 month old, every 3 hours for a 3 month old, every 4 hours for a 4 month old, etc. It would certainly make things easier if dogs understood what we were saying when we spoke full sentences after they did something that we didn't approve of. However, puppies that are rewarded for good deeds and quietly forgiven for accidents are able to pick up what the owner wishes for without any scolding. Please remember that you want your Poodle to respect you, not fear you. And while it may feel good to release a bit of steam if you find a puddle of pee, yelling or acting frustrated will only confused and stress a puppy that really has no idea why you are upset. Dogs learn best when they can associate a word with an action. So, you'll want everyone in the house to be in agreement as to which word s will be used for housebreaking. It's best to keep it short, and have it be something that you do not feel uncomfortable saying in public. You will use this as you head outside 'Do you need to go potty? While some puppies will instantly pee or poo, others need time. Owners that only give the pup only a few minutes may have trouble with the training. Since 5 minutes can feel like 20 if you are bored, cold or otherwise uncomfortable or antsy, plan ahead. Have an outdoor chair located right in the middle of the bathroom area and plan ahead to check your mail or email during these times. It is recommended to give the puppy a good 15 minutes and if you just know that a bowel movement is due, give it .While on this note, one of the biggest problems that owners encounter is when a puppy won't pee in his spot no matter how long there, but will pee as soon as being brought back inside. A good tip to fix this, should it happen often, is hold him after you come back inside he won't pee on you ; then head back out in about 10 minutes. While young Poodles need to be taken out often see above , if they are kept on that schedule as they mature, they will not have an opportunity to learn to hold their needs and bladder and bowel muscles will not strengthen as they otherwise would. As you puppy grows older, stretch out the periods of time in between taking him out. While the carpet may look clean after you scrub it with dish soap and a sturdy brush, soap does not eliminate enzymes that are in urine. And those lingering enzymes you won't smell these, but your Poodle will essentially scream 'This is the bathroom area! So, all areas that have been pee'd or poo'd on need to be cleaned with an enzyme cleanser. Puppies are terrific at making whining noises and barking in the middle of the night, without letting us know if they need to go to the bathroom or are just bored and wanting some attention. If a puppy pees and poos before bedtime, it is far more likely that he wants your company as opposed to having a real need. However, it is always best to be safe than sorry. The important element is that this be done in a very serious manner without any play or other interaction. Keep lights low, bring your Poodle puppy directly to his spot, wait the allotted time without speaking other than praise if the deed is done and then bring him right back. A puppy will soon learn that barking for attention at night does not bring about any interaction that would seem worthy of making a fuss but that alerting you in regard to bathroom needs does result in praise and a quick treat. It's a common occurrence for owners to bring their Poodle for a walk in the neighborhood and just let the puppy go to the bathroom along the way. However, this is a missed opportunity for a house training lesson. Bring your Poodle to his spot first and then bring him for his exercise. Housebreaking Exact Steps This is exactly how to bring your Poodle out, what to say, and what to do: 1. Head outside with your Poodle on leash and harness, saying your chosen phrase Let's go potty , and with the training treats in a small zipped plastic bag, kept in your pocket. Lead your Poodle directly to the designated bathroom area, repeating the phrase. Stand in the middle of the designated area, allowing your Poodle to roam within the diameter and sniff around. Allow 10 to 15 minutes. If your Poodle pees or poos, without completely distracting your pup, mark the action with your chosen word said in a happy tone, You're going potty. During this time, be reaching for the training treat. As soon as your Poodle is done, bend to his level, give great praise in a super-enthusiastic voice Good potty, oh, you are such a good dog! If your Poodle had a bowel movement, and you believe that there may be a urination need, remain outside for an additional 5 minutes. A Final Word While you will need a bit of patience during this time, with a good plan and lots of enthusiasm from you, your Poodle puppy should be completely house trained with a few months. After you feel that he is fully trained, be sure to still bring him out often enough, and continue to offer praise to reinforce the lessons that have been learned. How to Stop a Poodle From Marking - Both males and females may display territorial marking, and this is a separate issue than housebreaking. Learn why dogs do this, and exactly how to stop it. The Best Type of Toys for a Poodle - If you think of toys as tools, you'll see that certain ones can help with a range of issues. See the top toys for teething, treat-release, chewing, boredom, and as aids when home alone. Giving a Poodle a Bath - Great tips and advice for successful baths that are beneficial to skin and coat. All rights reserved. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Share Us. Potty breaks Alone time Of course, potty breaks have priority on your list at this time, but routines and schedules for the other things will also help with that. Image Credit: Pixabay 2. Purchase a Leash Before you begin training your Poodle friend, you should purchase a leash and harness that will fit your pet. Using a leash during your puppy training accomplishes two things at once. If all goes according to plan within about 3 weeks of taking your Poodle to their designated potty spots, you should no longer have a problem. Praise, of course, is easy. Treats can be a bit trickier because you first have to figure out what your pet likes best. In most cases, however, your Poodle will be happy with a dog treat or even a dog toy to be given for good behavior. Never yell at, hit, or otherwise demean your Poodle for having accidents in the house or even for not following commands. Remember, your dog is just a baby, and yelling at it is counterproductive and cruel. Image Credit: Linas T, Shutterstock 4. Test Away from Home Once you begin to have accident-free days and at least a few accident-free nights, take your puppy to a friend to see how well it does. Make sure you take poop bags, wipes, and paper towels with you to clean up after your puppy if it has an accident. It permanently removes the very worst stains and smells you can imagine and makes clean up a breeze. Click here to order a bottle today. Crate training works well for older Poodles. When you take the dog outside, wait with it to see if it uses the bathroom. Remember to offer tons of praise and treats for a job well done. However, in the excitement of getting the dog settled into its new home, it could be easy to forget to set a routine and start training your new friend to potty outside. Following the steps above will ensure that your Poodle puppy is properly trained and will continue to use the bathroom outside after your strict routine are adjusted to something less rigid. In the meantime, you can use a crate, dog pen, or puppy pads to help manage where your puppy goes to the bathroom in the house. Of course, if you have an adult Poodle that needs potty training, you can start right off with training them outside. Ready to Adopt Puppyspot Poodle Adoption 5. They have placed over , puppies into homes in the US! These include: Choosing suitable treats. So, make sure to select a treat that they enjoy. Finally, you should ensure the treat is small to avoid your puppy putting on the pounds. If possible, try to return home before your Poodle should have to go to the bathroom to avoid forcing them to go inside. So, whenever you take your Poodle outside for potty training, teach them a command to encourage them to go. Then, let them sniff around the area. Step 3: Praise Your Poodle If your Poodle ends up peeing or pooping, gently say a word or phrase in a positive, upbeat voice that you want them to associate with the action. Just make sure not to get too excited when you praise them. So, the moment your Poodle finishes, praise them with lots of pets and a treat. Step 5: Spend More Time Outside An outdoor-loving Poodle will soon catch on if you bring them back into the house the moment they finish peeing or pooping. So, avoid this situation by playing with them outside after they go to the bathroom. Take Them Outside Often No one ever said potty training is convenient since you should take your Poodle puppy outside every two hours during the day until they get older and develop a stronger bladder. Furthermore, you should take them to their designated potty area as soon as they wake up, after eating, and before you go to bed. A DIY balcony porch potty 2. So, try your best to feed your Poodle at the same time every day to avoid accidents in your house. Handle Accidents With Grace Accidents in the house are a natural part of potty training. So, when it happens, the worst thing you can do is point to the mess and yell at your Poodle. Instead, show your dog to their outdoor relief area and clean up the mess with a cleaner made to hide dog scents. Using a scent hiding product is crucial, given that Poodles are more likely to pee or poop in places that smell as such. Safe to use around pets and children. No hazardous propellants, no residue left behind. Not just the stain, but the stink. From stinky yellow pet urine and feces to vomit and other organic spills, our professional.This spray contains natural enzymes that are activated on contact with odors and stains, feeding on ammonia crystals and organic matter.We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you. Others will get distracted easily by the sights and sounds of the outdoors, requiring more time. The important thing is to give your Poodle time to muster up peeing or pooping. Ideally, you should wait 15 minutes. However, if you know your Poodle probably needs to poop, waiting up to 20 minutes is reasonable. Why do Poodles shake? In some cases, it might be a legitimate call because they have to go to the bathroom. In other cases, they might want food or cuddles. If your Poodle whines in the middle of the night, you should take them outside to go to the bathroom. However, unlike during the day when you should play with them after they go, you should bring them into the house immediately after they relieve themselves. The amount of time it takes to potty train your Poodle depends on their age. A part of this is because they have a stronger bladder, so they can go for longer periods without having an accident. You, as a dog owner, also have a lot to do with how long it takes your Poodle to learn to use the outdoors as their restroom. Kindness and consistency are key to success. Using positive reinforcement techniques is one of the best things you can do for your Poodle during the training process. With lots of kind words and tasty treats as an incentive, you can expect your Poodle to soon start using the outdoors as their permanent restroom. Similar Posts.

May 26, Share Labradoodles are generally known to be water-loving dogs. This is because they are a cross between two breeds that are known for their love of water, Labrador Retrievers and Poodles. Some may love it, while others may not be as interested. Can Labradoodles Swim? Yes, most Labradoodles can swim. Labradoodles have webbed paws that make it easier for them to swim, and they also have a water-repellent coat that helps to keep them buoyant. But as with any breed of dog, there may be some Labradoodles that do not like to swim or are not good swimmers. There are a few reasons why Labradoodles may enjoy being in or around water. Lastly, water can be a fun and refreshing way for dogs to cool down on hot days. If your Labradoodle fears water, it could be due to a number of things. If this is the case, you can start by introducing them to calm and shallow waters before gradually increasing the depth or current. With time and patience, you can help your pup to learn to love being in the water! Labradoodles can generally be expected to enjoy being in or around water. Start Slowly: Introduce them to shallow and calm waters before moving on to deeper ones. Use Positive Reinforcement: Offer treats as rewards for showing an interest in the water and for any progress they make. Keep It Fun: Use toys or other activities that your pup enjoys helping keep them interested and motivated. With a bit of patience, you can help your Labradoodle learn to love being in and around water! With some time and effort, you can help your Labradoodle learn to love swimming! Conclusion Does your Labradoodle love to spend time in the water? Plus, if you slowly introduce them to water in a positive, high-energy way, you may find that your Labradoodle loves it after all. Featured Image Credit: managedpaincare, Pixabay Contents. Can Labradoodles Swim? The simple answer is yes; they can swim. They often love to be in the water. However, it will take some encouragement and training from the owner to get a Labradoodle to swim in a pool or a lake. Since Labradoodles are a mix of Labrador Retrievers and Poodles, they come from a long line of dog breeds that love the water. Both Poodles and Labradors were bred to be water dogs and retrieve ducks after a hunt from the lake. Therefore, their mix is a water-loving breed as well. Whether you introduce your Labradoodle to the water as a puppy or as an adult dog, they seem to take to it very naturally, and they tend to be excellent swimmers. Since Labradoodles come from two lines of water dogs, they are very interested in swimming, and they like water more than the typical dog. However, how much your dog enjoys the water will depend on how early in his life your dog was exposed to swimming and how often he spent time in a pool or lake. While the average Labradoodle likes water and enjoys going for a swim, some take longer to get used to the wet water. Here are some tips: help your Labradoodle enjoy swimming by starting her early, keeping her safe, and making sure she has fun. For example, upon bringing a Labradoodle puppy into your home, add a few inches of water to a tub and bathe your new puppy. This will be a great introduction to water to your dog. Before you know it, your new Labradoodle puppy will love spending time in the water. Below are some great ideas for introducing your Labradoodle to water. Some simple introductions of Labradoodles to the water are: Play with a hose in your backyard Fill up a small pool for your kids and your dog with some water and get them to play Take your dog to the beach and let them play near the waves or put their paws in the water The most important thing to remember is that Labradoodles are very intelligent dogs and are easy to train. As such, over time, you should be able to help them learn how to swim and get used to the water. Before you know it, your dog and kids will be enjoying splashing around in the water of your backyard pool. How to Keep Labradoodles Safe When Swimming It will be essential to keep your Labradoodle puppy or adult dog safe when learning how to swim and even after. Even the strongest swimmer can get himself into a jam. As such, there are precautions a dog owner should take to keep their pet safe in the water. Step 1: Create Exit and Entry Points Your dog will need to have a clear and safe place to enter and exit the water. This will allow him to leave when he gets too tired of swimming or needs a break. With the right exit strategy, your dog will remain safe. Step 2: Find and Avoid Hazards The most important thing to remember is to never let your dog swim alone. If given the chance, a Labradoodle would go for a swim on his own. Never give him the chance to do so, as keeping him supervised is essential to avoid hazards in the water and make sure your dog is safe. In a pool, there are chemicals and cleaning equipment to watch out for. Make sure your dog never starts munching on any chemicals or cleaning items. Keep your dog away from garbage or litter that other visitors left behind on the beach. These are some common hazards to avoid when taking your dog for a swim. Labradoodle playing in a water fountain. What a way to cool off on a warm day! To avoid exhaustion, heatstroke, or even sunburn, take your dog out of the water regularly and let her rest in the shade. Typical signs of heat exhaustion include: Panting Drooling Trouble walking Before your dog gets to these stages, take her out of the water for a break. There are plenty of dog life vests out there for your pup. You can also consider getting your Labradoodle a flotation device. How to Properly Groom a Labradoodle After a Swim If your dog has spent time in a pool, the fur will have chemicals all over it. Yet, if your pup was swimming in the ocean, there will be saltwater in her fur. Give her a nice shampooing in the bath. An Apricot Mini Labradoodle my puppy Max! It is still possible for a Labradoodle to just not be into swimming. Did you get your Labradoodle from a shelter? Then he may have trauma related to the water. Practice makes perfect. Over time, your dog will start to tolerate the water and may even enjoy a soak in the shallow end. Yes, Labradoodles are a mixed breed that comes from two types of water dogs Labrador Retrievers and Poodles. As such, Labradoodles make great water dogs. Do miniature Labradoodles know how to swim? Even miniature Labradoodles can learn how to swim and enjoy swimming in the water. Both large and small Labradoodles are capable of swimming. Can Labradoodles swim inside a pool? The simple answer is yes. Labradoodles can swim in a pool. My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More. Do Labradoodles Like Water? Cats are well known for hating water, but dogs are usually the exact opposite. Many dog breeds love swimming and playing in the water. Labrador retrievers are one prime example known for their love of water. Some pet owners may even look for water dogs specifically, whether simply for fun or for hunting. Labradoodles are a combination of a Labrador retriever and a poodle. Both of these dog breeds were bred to be water dogs, so labradoodles generally enjoy being in the water. As a result, labradoodles like to swim as a whole, and the breed is designed to be a strong swimmer. Not all dogs within the same breed will have the same personalities or interests. Despite being bred to be water dogs, even these dogs can dislike the water if not appropriately trained. Early exposure to water is key to ensuring your labradoodle will enjoy swimming and other water activities. However, there are other ways you can increase those chances, too. These are discussed more in-depth below, along with helpful water safety information. How To Increase the Chances Your Dog Will Love the Water Even the notoriously water-loving Labrador retriever requires certain things early in their development to ensure it enjoys swimming. With the labradoodle and other dogs, there are a few ways you can increase the chances your dog will love the water. Early Exposure Early exposure to water settings is crucial, since puppies are easier to train and acclimate to certain situations. When your labradoodle is a few months old, start by using a baby pool. Fill the baby pool with very shallow water and let your pup play in it. You want to look for a baby pool with low sides your puppy can easily get in and out of. Make It Easy Thanks to their breeding, labradoodles usually swim well. Besides a kiddie pool filled just a few inches with water, make sure there are easy ways for your puppy to access the water. For example, consider turning on a water hose and using a sprinkler. But remember to always leave easy access to a water-free area so your future duck dog has a place to go if it feels overwhelmed. Make It Fun Want to ensure your labradoodles swim as they grow bigger and stronger? Make it fun. Consider playing fetch by throwing a ball into shallow water and letting your dog swim to retrieve it. As your dog gets more comfortable swimming, you can throw the ball a little further out. Stay Close Your labradoodle will develop a strong bond with you, so having you nearby when it explores deeper water can help it feel safe. This is especially important when your pet is a puppy. If you have a pool or live on the water, you can do this every day you do training. If not, you can aim for weekly water training sessions. Regular water training will be especially important if you plan to participate in water sports with your dog. Water sports may include special competitions, hunting or regularly taking your labradoodle out on a boat. Water Safety Precautions for Your Labradoodle Not following water safety precautions means your dog suffers. Even when your labradoodle is a strong swimmer, unexpected events can cause water-related disasters. Therefore, you should take every precaution to ensure its safety while in the water. The same holds true if your dog jumps into the water without warning. The dogwear swimming vest you choose should fit snugly but not too tight. Miniature labradoodles will require a significantly smaller swimming vest than larger breeds, so keep this in mind. If possible, bring your dog with you when purchasing the vest to get the best possible fit. Every great swimmer starts with a buddy swim in a large body of water. Strong currents can easily pull your dog under or further away from shore. Also, avoid dirty or contaminated water, because even healthy dogs can get sick if exposed to certain water-related parasites. When in doubt, choose to stay out. Keep Them Healthy Although they love to swim, Labradoodles have floppy ears prone to ear infections. Buy dog ear wipes for on the go and liquid ear cleaners for when you get home. Check out our online labradoodle guides to better understand your canine companion at every stage of its life. Choosing the best places for Labradoodle swimming Labradoodle swimming can be a great way of keeping your dog in good physical condition, whilst also appealing to their ancestral instincts as water dogs. This adorable video shows Leo the Mini Labradoodle puppy finding his water legs for the first time. Labradoodle swimming Did you know that Labrador Retrievers and Poodles were both originally duck hunting dogs? Their job was to accompany a human hunter armed with a shotgun, and fetch the ducks or other game birds from where they landed after being shot. Since — being ducks — quite a few were shot over water, successful Labs and Poodles were also strong, confident swimmers. In fact, they even have physical adaptations to help them move more easily in the water. Labradors and Poodles are still capable swimmers today, so it seems likely that Labradoodles should be too. Is this the case? Do Labradoodles swim? However, some Labradoodles are inevitably stronger swimmers than others. For example, Miniature Labradoodles are further removed from their most recent working ancestor, have less muscle mass, are out of their depth in shallower water, and are more affected by currents than Standard Labradoodles. Do Labradoodles like to swim? Usually, yes! Even if it has been many generations since their ancestors last worked as duck-retrieving dogs, most modern Labs and Poodles today still have a strong affinity with water and enjoy swimming. So, their crossbred offspring tend to enjoy it too. However, every dog is an individual, with their own unique personality and preferences. Unsurprisingly then, some Labradoodles are more keen about swimming than others. Whether their parents were keen swimmers, or land lovers. Enjoyable exposure to shallow water before 12 weeks old. How they are introduced to swimming in deeper water. Positive and negative experiences with swimming. Their overall health and fitness. Do Australian Labradoodles like to swim? Australian Labradoodles are multigeneration Labrador Poodle crosses. The aim of Australian Labradoodle breeders is to establish their dogs as a new pedigree dog breed in their own right. The ancestry of Australian Labradoodles is still mostly Labradors and Poodles, but some other breeds including Irish Water Spaniels have also contributed to establishing the breed. Aussie Labradoodles come in three sizes: standard, medium and miniature. They are also very likely to enjoy swimming, but the larger sizes are more likely to be enthusiastic and confident about it, owing to their greater muscle mass. Benefits of swimming for Labradoodles Swimming is a great form of physical activity for Labradoodles! It keeps them in shape. Labradors and Labradoodles can be prone to weight gain and obesity. Incorporating lots of kinds of physical activity into their routine is an important part of keeping them at a healthy weight. It meets their need for physical stimulation. Labradoodles are dogs of action! They love games, work, fresh air and being on the move. And mental stimulation. This demands focus and concentration. Labs, Poodles and Australian Labradoodles all have have documented high frequencies of hip dysplasia. Swimming in very safe water is a great way for dogs with hip dysplasia to exercise gently without further damaging their joints. Labradoodle swimming — How to get started All dogs instinctively know how to swim, but making sure it is something they enjoy requires a bit of time and investment. Start during the socialization period Your puppy is most receptive to forming positive opinions of new experiences when they are under 12 weeks old. So this is an ideal window in which to introduce them to water for the first time. Think small like your puppy though — shallow paddling pools, gentle streams, or a trip to the beach when the sea is very calm. Treat still water ponds and pools and moving water rivers and the sea separately, and make plans to introduce your young Labradoodle to both. Float coats are harnesses with buoyant panels to help keep your Labradoodle afloat. Can Labradoodles swim in the sea? Dog friendly beaches are great places to take your Labradoodle swimming. Some important rules to keep them safe in the sea are: Check the tide times before you let them go into the sea — a tide going out quickly can easily drag a dog along with it. Take fresh drinking water and offer it to them regularly. Can Labradoodles swim in lakes and ponds? For younger and smaller dogs, still bodies of water such as lakes and ponds have the advantage of no current. But precisely because they are stagnant, the water tends to be less clean. Blue green algae, which is toxic to dogs, also grows in still water in warm weather. Before letting your Doodle swim in a lake or pond, check who owns it and whether it is safe to swim in. Rinse them thoroughly afterwards, and pay special attention to gently drying their ears. Can Labradoodles swim in a chlorinated pool? It is usually safe for dogs to swim in chlorinated pools, but take care to rinse their coat thoroughly with water from a tap afterwards. Labs and Poodles are both prone to sensitive skin, so monitor your Labradoodle closely for signs that chlorinated water is making their skin itchy or irritated. Choosing the best places for Labradoodle swimming Beaches, pools, and slow moving shallow rivers are all good places for dogs to swim. But here are some places to avoid: Reservoirs. Reservoirs look placid and inviting, but they can have strong currents under the surface. Rough seas. Anywhere with signs prohibiting swimming. Does your Labradoodle love to swim? Tell us about your favorite places to take them for a dip in the comments section down below Before you go. Stay Safe Early Exposure to Water Your best bet for a water-friendly Labradoodle is giving them early experience with swimming. Even when you first take them home, a couple of inches of water in a pool or tub can be great exposure for them. Water should be fun and safe at this age and remember they are not able to do too much too soon A great next step is a small baby pool. When they are puppies, this can be an excellent spot to keep an eye on them when they try this. So be prepared! Make it Easy for Them An introduction to water should be in an environment that makes it simple for your pup to get in and out of the water at her pace. You can think of a small pool, the shore by a lake that has no sharp drop-offs, or a larger pool with steps or a ramp she can use. Let her go in as much as comfortable and be there with her for safety. Remember that swimming is physical exercise. Our guidelines on how much exercise they can handle and warning signs of too much exercise are laid out for you here. Make it Fun for Him One of the best ways to get your Labradoodle interested in the water is to make it a game! Poodles and Labradors were bred to be sport dogs that retrieve waterfowl from lakes and streams. Bring a favorite ball or squeeze toy with you. Start easy and throw the ball into very shallow water where he can get it without much trouble. Safety First Never let her swim unattended! You should always be nearby for safety and avoid areas that have currents or rough water. For larger bodies of water, we suggest they have safety gear. We have our favorite swimming vest and other safety gear here. Remember not to overwhelm her. A pool with steps might be a bit much to start as a puppy. For her, one step might be the difference between being able to reach the bottom and not even close! In those cases, you might find a baby pool to start, or a lake with a gradual decline. An ideal place has a few characteristics: Gradual: An easy way to get in and out. A gentle slope into the water that your dog can easily walk in up to a comfortable point. Calm: No currents or waves. A calm large pond or lake would be a good example or a pool that has a few steps or ramp ingress. Buddy Swim: Someplace you can join your dog in the water. She might feel better if you are in there with her! Make sure to bring a favorite toy to play with and fetch A calm safe area will be the perfect place for you and your doodle to have some water fun. In water that is not fully controlled like a lake or other places, you can have them wear a doggie life jacket. Make sure to acclimate them to this before you use it in water. Most pet stores will have them for you. Look for something with a handle on the back so you can easily get them if needed. Related Questions: Are Labradoodles water dogs? Labradoodles, as a breed, are not technically a water dog as defined by some experts. For example in Dr. The Poodle is among them, typically used in France as a waterfowl retriever and, as such, a great swimmer. In fact, the poodle style haircut was initially done to keep them both warm and not too weighed down by their dense hair! Labradors are themselves excellent water retriever dogs, bred to return waterfowl. Bred to be excellent swimmers and active sporting dogs, Labs will happily play all day in the water and retrieve like they were bred to do. Do Labradoodles like water? As a breed that is a mix of Poodle and Labrador, both of which are water-loving, yes! Labradoodles are certainly very likely to take to water easily. As always, dogs are individuals, and some might be more or less enthusiastic. They also might take some time to get used to the water, depending on how they were raised and how old they are. Often she will take right to water! Other times it might be a bit of a process to get acclimated. Wrap it up! Labradoodles will typically love the water! Give them all the tools to succeed and your doodle can have a great time in the pool, lake, or at the beach with you. Be mindful of safety, and let them get adjusted to it at whatever pace they can handle. All dogs are individuals and it should be quickly apparent how your pup responds to water. If they are with you, playing and enjoying the water, it should be an easy transition! Have fun! Related Posts:. Pet Keen is reader-supported. When you buy via links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no cost to you. Learn more. Are Labradoodles Natural Swimmers? Labradoodles got a natural swimming ability from not one but both of their bloodline. Labrador Retrievers are known to enjoy the water and are bred to retrieve ducks from ponds or lakes during a hunt. Poodles may have a reputation for being sophisticated and polished, especially with their fancy haircuts, but they were bred to hunt and retrieve—including water retrieving. They have a moisture-resistant coat and webbed feet, which help them swim well naturally. Do All Labradoodles Like Water? If your dog is forced or scared into swimming, it may have an aversion to water for the rest of its life. Add a few inches of water to a bathtub and place your puppy in the bath. Keep the experience fun and playful with treats, toys, and lots of praise. You can slowly increase the amount of water in the tub to let your pup adjust to it gradually. Taking the Next Step: Swimming! If not, get a deep hard-shelled kiddie pool that you can fill up enough for your dog to experience deeper water. Like the tub, let your dog set the pace a little bit. Water Safety for Labradoodles With luck, your Labradoodle will take to water like a duck. But no matter how strong and natural a swimmer you have, the wrong conditions can overpower the most athletic of dogs. When you take your dog to a natural body of water, make sure you know the entry and exit points. Once you find these spots, guide your dog in and out a few times so it understands how to leave the water. You may want to invest in a dog life jacket for additional safety and peace of mind. If necessary, give your dog a quick bath. If you take it slow and ensure every experience is fun and positive , your dog is more likely to enjoy it. Conclusion With two water dogs as parent breeds, Labradoodles typically love to swim. With time and patience, you can have fun water experiences with your dog that can grow into an adult Labradoodle that swims like a fish. Can Labradoodles Swim? Can Labradoodles swim? Yes, the Labradoodle is an excellent swimmer and usually takes to the water naturally if introduced as a puppy. Of course, there are always exceptions to the rule. The Labradoodle is a crossbreed of the Poodle and the Labrador Retriever. Both of these breeds were originally bred to be water dogs and are strong swimmers. It was the job of a Poodle to retrieve the shot ducks from the water and bring them back to the hunter. The odd-looking show coat of the Poodle was originally for a purpose. The fur was shaved to help reduce the water weight that the fur absorbed. The odd puffs of fur were left in strategic locations to protect joints and organs from the chilly water. The Labrador Retrievers tail works as an especially strong rudder and makes this breed a strong swimmer. Since the Labradoodle is a mixture of two water-loving breeds it makes sense that the Labradoodle should also love water and be a great swimmer. But there are a few steps you can take to make to change this. As with all socialization, experiences, playing in water should be positive and safe. When teaching a dog to swim, it is best to start a puppy when young around 12 weeks old onwards. Giving them just a few inches of water in a kiddy pool is a great first introduction. Be sure to make it fun for the puppy. Swimming is intense exercise and can wear a puppy out fast. Be sure to keep a close eye on your dog whenever he is swimming so you can make sure they stay safe. Making water fun is an important part of the socialization with water. Make it a game. Playing fetch with a toy that will float is great. Start off easy by tossing the toy close to shore and in a spot that the dog can easily access the water. Take cues from your dog to know when he is tiring and when he is ready for more challenges. If your dog is swimming in a large body of water or in water with swift currents or undertows be safe and have your dog wear a lifejacket. A lifejacket can also help to extend the fun. They will slightly reduce the amount of effort the Labradoodle needs to use to stay afloat. If your Labradoodle really enjoys water then perhaps you would like to try some water sports with him. Be sure to use a lifejacket where appropriate and bring plenty of fresh water for both of you on your excursion. Kayaking can be super fun with your dog! Also, something to keep in mind is ducks or geese that may be on the water. Like kayaking, you can also take your dog paddle-boarding. Dogs can also enjoy surfing. Introducing the surfboard on land is a great idea. Taking your Labradoodle boating can be fun too. Just be sure to keep them safe with a lifejacket and keep an eye on them. Dock diving is a competitive water sport option for dogs. The basic concept is the dog jumps off the end of a dock after a thrown toy or other objects. Big Air is basically a distance jump into the water. Speed Retrieve is timed, how fast can the dog get the item and return it to you. Then Extreme Verticle is where the dog jumps from the edge of a dock up to grab a toy that is suspended, then lands in the water. The toys are high up and raised with each pass. Check out this video showing dogs dock diving. You can use a dog lifejacket to aide in the training process to get your dog to enjoy the water or to keep them safe for boating or other water sport activities. They are also helpful for senior dogs. Some dog lifejackets will have floats only on the top and sides of the dog. This will be sufficient for some, but I prefer the lifejackets that also have flotation on the belly area. This provides better overall flotation. It is especially good for dogs that have short noses. It will help to keep their heads up so they can breathe more easily. Bright colors and reflective strips are a good idea too. This will help to keep your dog more visible to you as well as others out enjoying the water. Especially, boats and jet skis. Something you want to look for in a dog lifejacket is a handle on the top. You can also use it to help support and guide your dog when you are first getting him used to swimming. Depending on what you intend to do with the lifejacket, looking for a jacket that has a hook on the back that you can attach a leash too is a good idea. It can be very helpful for walking your dog to the water or keeping your dog on a leash while on the boat or board. Whether you want your dog attached to you on the boat or board is your choice. Use your best judgment. Also, look for a lifejacket that is very adjustable. Be sure that your dog can sit, lay down, and otherwise be himself in the lifejacket. You are going to want a well-made jacket as well. One that will last for may outings. Labradoodles can be prone to ear infections, and excess water in the ear from water sports can cause issues. This is not an infection but is actually an inflammation of the outer ear canal. If you take your dog to the vet, then treatments for ear infections and swimmers ear can include antibiotics, antihistamines, liquid ear cleaners and painkillers. If your dog suffers from ear problems frequently then you may want to take a more holistic approach. I like to use little bit of organic witch hazel on a cotton ball or pad can to help dry out the ears. You can also buy dog ear wipes that are antiseptic and contain aloe vera and eucalyptus. If you get into the habit of using these once a week they can help to stop ear infections and inflammation by keeping them clean. It also gets your dog used to touching his ear and cleaning it, making it easier to apply medication if required at some stage. Can All Dog Breeds Swim? There are very few dogs that cannot swim at all. These breeds typically either have short noses such as the bulldog, pug, or boxer , or have short legs dachshund, corgies , or heavy chests bulldogs , or are very small such as Shih Tzu, Maltese breeds. Even these dogs can be taught to enjoy the water with the right safety precautions like life-jackets and towels to dry them. Other than these breeds, most dogs are able to swim. Not all dogs will enjoy it though! In Conclusion Yes, Labradoodles can swim! The Labradoodle is a designer dog that is bred from two water-loving breeds, Poodles and Labrador Retrievers. That said, not all Labradoodles will love water. You can help to ensure that your Labradoodle does like water with proper socialization with water. And fun, positive experiences with water. There is a large variety of water sports that you can do with your Labradoodle if you choose to. From kayaking to surfing to dock diving Labradoodles can have a blast at water sports. Be sure to be safe and pick a high-quality lifejacket for your dog where needed. And keep their ears clean! Have fun out there in the water with your Labradoodle!

Town and country cut Short cut You will also have to bear in mind that some of these cuts will be much shorter. If you live in a cold climate or a hot climate, ensure you have the right protection for your dog. Our article on dressing dogs for winter shows you how to do this in an appropriate way. Lion cut The lion cut is probably the best known and most extravagant of all the poodle haircuts. The dog's limbs are hairless, with only a pompom around the front and back paws. The tail should be rounded off and the chest, stomach and head should be left with hair. It is the most widely used haircut in competitions and dog shows where is is also known as the Continental cut. The lion cut's elaborate style makes it impressive, but also takes a lot of time and effort not to mention experience to get right. There are other cuts on dogs called the lion cut, such as one for the Shih Tzu , but they will look different according to the specific breed. Image: National Geographic 2. English saddle cut The English cut is very similar to the lion cut. The difference lies in an additional pompom on the hind legs, and the pelvic area being left at the same length as the chest. It still shares the long ears and tightly wound curls on the body. Both are considered some of the most popular Poodle haircuts among groomers. Image: poodleforum 3. Dutch cut The Dutch cut is one of the most popular in dog contests and expositions. Unlike previous styles, this one is for those who are looking for a uniform style with no differences in length of the dog's coat. It's notable above all for the tail ending in a cute pompom. Image: poodleforum 4. Modern cut The modern cut for poodles is probably the most suitable for owners who love following recent trends and enjoy watching canine beauty competitions. This is also known as the Scandinavian cut or European cut in some sectors, especially in the United States of America. It seeks to achieve a careful and professional finish, without being as exaggerated as the aforementioned styles. It is an aesthetic cut, yet at the same time it is very natural. It follows the shape of the body, emphasizing the ears and tail as much as the head. This is a very trendy cut for Miniature Poodles, and it isn't difficult to work out why. This haircut really makes your poodle look like a puppy. This style doesn't aim to achieve a defined or sharp-looking finish. On the contrary, the fur should look natural and fresh. The American Kennel Club claims there should be a pompom on the end of the tail. It is another of the most popular Poodle haircuts. Image: temporary-secretary 6. Summer cut Many dog owners wonder if it's bad to give their dogs a haircut during the summer. Not all dogs should follow the example of the Poodle, which is a breed that adapts perfectly to different haircuts and styles. Summer is a hot period that makes your beloved poodle get dirtier than usual - especially if you take it to the beach or go for a walk in the woods. Therefore, giving it a summer cut is a good idea: You will help to keep it cool while achieving some interesting aesthetic finishes, as shown below. Winter Poodle cuts tend to leave more hair on the dog to help insulate them from the cold. Image: poodleforum. Cupcake cut This haircut is not very well known, possibly because some people think it provides a strange look once it is done. The cupcake cut is notable for leaving the ears absolutely rounded as a result of being thoroughly styled. Not all styles will involve Poodle face cuts to be so dramatic, but we think it is quite stylish. This Poodle cut is also notable for the shape of its head - which ends in a point - which bears a clear resemblance to a delicious muffin. Image: huxtablethepoodle. Teddy bear cut The teddy bear cut is increasingly popular among long-haired dog breeds. This finish must be done with scissors, and it requires hands with experience in styling poodles. The hair should be left mid-length so that the poodle's curls can be seen clearly. This gives a sweet and rounded finish which makes it look like a bear, as the name suggests. Make sure you know how often to bathe a poodle in order for their fur to look gorgeous at all times. Image: yiral 9. This style can work for any type of Poodle, but is particularly common with Standard or Miniature Poodles. Its defining feature is that it leaves the legs hairy and cylinder-shaped. The body hair, on the other hand, is cut shorter, which accentuates the density of the leg hairs. The head and ears have a rounded finish. Image: najupets .Short cut While it's not very common to see a short-haired poodle, it remains an aesthetic option that will avoid knots, tangles and dirt building up in its coat. This Poodle cut may be a good option in warmer countries. It is also a good option for those who can't go to the dog stylist as often as they would like to. This style can work just as well on a Toy Poodle as it will a Standard Poodle. However, you will need to bear in mind that it may cause the dog to become cold. Either avoid this cut in cold climates or winter months. If you still prefer a shorter cut, ensure you have a doggie jacket for them to stay protected. Image: notastandardpoodle-gregg. The problem is there is no standardized style guide for cutting a Poodle's hair. In different countries, regions and even individual dog groomers , there is debate over the correct name for some of the terms. This can understandably cause confusion for groomers. Clients may come in with a specific idea of how they want their Poodle cut, but are unable to explain the style to the groomer. The best thing for you to do is to decide on what you want before hand and locate a picture of the Poodle cut you want. You can even take this article with you and decide which type of haircut will best work for your dog. Relying on the name of a certain Poodle cut may cause confusion or frustration, so it is best to be on the safe side. Send us a photo of your dog! Do not forget to share your poodle's haircut in the comments so that others can get inspired. Thank you for visiting AnimalWised! If you want to read similar articles to 10 Haircuts for Poodles, we recommend you visit our Beauty tips category. New Feature 7 dapper hairstyles for your poodle Your poodle is an elegant dog that deserves to be taken care of with impeccable style. The poodle's coat is its most distinguishing feature, and it's essential to keep it looking its best. Grooming is key, and a good haircut can make all the difference! As your dog's fur grows out, it can become tangled and unruly, making for a frustrating appearance. Your poodle is an elegant dog that deserves to be taken care of with impeccable style. There are many different styles of haircuts a poodle can have, and it can be tough to decide which one is right for your pup. It can be hard to know where to start with so many options available. Don't worry; we're here to help! In this article, we'll take a look at seven trendy hairstyles your poodle can rock on his walk. The Lion Cut Let's start with one of the most popular poodle haircuts of all, the lion cut. Sometimes referred to as the "puppy cut," this hairstyle takes advantage of your poodle's long fur to give them a mane-like appearance. The dog's limbs are left hairless, except for a pompom around the tail, front and rear paws. A perfect look for poodles who want to show off their luxurious locks! This hairstyle will last a while since the short hairs on your poodle's face and body will help prevent matting. You should still brush your pup regularly to keep his coat clean and healthy! The Puppy Cut Another popular haircut for poodles and other small dogs like the Yorkshire Terriers is the "puppy cut. While the fur looks a little longer around the face, the haircut mimics a human infant rather than a furry animal. With this cut, your pup will feel extra comfortable as he goes about his day! While many owners opt for this style as it doesn't require as much maintenance as other cuts, it's easy to get tired of the same look over time. Your poodle will still need regular brushing to remove tangles and maintain his healthy coat. Teddy Bear Cut Do you love the look of a teddy bear? The teddy bear cut is another popular choice for poodle haircuts. It's an adorable style that looks kind of like your pup has a bushy mane! This technique leverages the poodle's tiny round eyes and creates the illusion of a furry face. The hair should be cut uniformly at mid-length with a rounded shape to the top of the head. It's important not to cut the body fur too short, as we need the poodle's curls to be seen clearly for this cut. The fur around your pup's paws is left untouched, so it appears thick and full, giving your poodle the appearance of having tiny bear paws! These cuts are extremely popular with older dogs who won't have to worry about frequent brushing or bathing. Summer Cut Although you want your poodle to look cute, you also want them to be comfortable! In the summer, it's hot and humid, and your pup will thank you for cutting his hair shorter. The summer cut is an excellent choice for those sweltering days. In this style, all of the hair on your poodle's body is trimmed very short, except for a small tuft around the tail and large pompoms around the legs. This style is easy to maintain and will help your pup stay comfortable in the summer heat. Dutch Cut Known for its frequent appearance in dog shows, the dutch cut is a great choice for poodles that want a unique look. This creates a "Mohawk" look that is sure to turn heads! The tail can also be left long or cut short to complement your pup's look. The face and paws are the only parts of the body shaved, so you get a little bit of extra grooming time! This cut requires regular brushing to keep your poodle's coat clean and tangle-free. English Saddle Cut The English saddle cut is a popular choice for poodles with longer coats. This haircut is similar to the dutch cut, but it explicitly leaves more hair on the top of your poodle's head. The face and legs are also shaved, but a little more fur is left on the body to create an overall rounded look for this cut. This cut is great-looking but will require regular brushing and bathing to prevent mats from forming. Short Cut This is a prevalent choice for poodles with shorter hair, as it is low-maintenance and easy to groom. In this style, all of the hair on your dog's body is trimmed short, except for the ears. The fur around his face and paws is also shaved short, giving your pup a clean, polished look. This style is perfect for owners who want their dogs to look neat and tidy with minimal effort! Although this style doesn't require as much grooming as other styles, it's still necessary to brush your poodle regularly as the fur grows back. Things To Know Before Grooming Your Poodle Now that you know a little bit about the different types of poodle haircuts, there are a few things to keep in mind before you get started. All poodles require regular brushing Regardless of the style of haircut you choose. Brushing helps to remove excess hair and keep your poodle's coat healthy. It also helps to stimulate blood flow to the skin, which is important for natural oil production. Be sure to give your pup a good bath before grooming him, It would be best to wash your dog too often, but bathing him before grooming will help remove loose fur and leave your poodle's coat soft and shiny. A lot of groomers also recommend giving your pup a good brush after bathing to remove any excess hair, as it can clog drains or just be tough to clean up. Grooming should be a fun experience for your dog Please don't force your poodle to do anything they don't want to! Teaching them that grooming is a positive, relaxing experience will help the process go by more quickly and smoothly. Start grooming early If your dog is still a puppy, it might be a good idea to introduce him to the grooming process early on. This will help him get used to the sights, sounds, and smells of a groomer's salon, and he'll be more likely to cooperate when it's time for his actual haircut. We recommend sending your dog to a professional groomer for his haircut. This will ensure that your pup gets the best possible cut and that you don't accidentally cut him too short or leave any bald patches. Most groomers offer various services, so be sure to ask what they include in their price. Generally, a groomer will begin by bathing your dog and then trimming his nails, cleaning his ears, and starting to cut the hair according to your specifications. The process will continue with a blow-dry, and then your pup will be ready for his final trim. Poodles are known to have a lot of hair, so it can take a long time to groom them completely. You should expect the process to take up to two hours or more. You should consider many factors when choosing a groomer, including experience, pricing, and location. The best way to find a qualified groomer near you is to use Pawsh's directory. Top-Rated and Vetted Groomers All the groomers on our platform are top-rated, with glowing reviews from previous clients. We also verify all of our groomers based on training and professional experience to ensure that they're the best in their industry. At-Home Grooming Pros Our platform is special because our groomers offer grooming delivery services, meaning they come to you. This can usually help you save a lot of money and offers you the convenience of getting your poodle groomed in the comfort and familiarity of your own home. Save time and hassle by using Pawsh today! App for Android and iPhone Pawsh is available as an app for Android and iPhones to make booking groomers easier than ever before. Just download the application, enter your zip code, choose a poodle-certified groomer near you, and book your appointment! Take advantage of cashless payments to pay, tip, and rebook all through our app! Conclusion Poodles are a pretty high-maintenance breed when it comes to grooming. They have a lot of hair that needs regular attention and time-consuming maintenance. If you want your poodle to look his best, investing in a great haircut from a qualified groomer is key! For an easy way to book quality grooming services at home, Pawsh is the best option for you. Just download our app, book an appointment, and sit back as we take care of your beloved poodle! Related Posts. By Yvonne Villasenor Yvonne Villasenor is a freelance writer and animal lover who just so happens to be allergic to cats and dogs. That doesn't stop her from cuddling with them! When Yvonne's not working, you can find her lounging with her charming Chihuahuas, weightlifting, or wandering around Halloween stores. Having such unique and versatile fur means there are countless poodle haircuts for you to choose from, and a professional groomer can give your poodle a makeover with a hairstyle that best matches her personality and lifestyle. With so many options available, learn how your poodle can look like anything from a plush toy to elegant royalty! Teddy Bear Cut The teddy bear cut is a popular trim for poodles and other long-haired breeds. With this look, your poodle has longer hair on her face for a soft, rounded "teddy bear" appearance, and the rest of the fur on her body is cut at a shorter, uniform length throughout. Talk about cuddly cuteness! Summer Cut Because poodles have a single coat, they can enjoy the luxury that comes with it: the summer cut. Known as one of the most low-maintenance poodle haircuts, the summer cut is a practical haircut option that keeps your poodle's fur short so she stays comfortable in hot weather. So if you're looking to cut your hair to beat the heat in the summer, you and your poodle can rock shorter hairdos together! Puppy Cut No matter your poodle's age, you can seemingly turn back time with the puppy cut. Also a popular choice among poodle parents, the puppy cut is a simple, natural-looking trim that leaves your dog with an evenly cut length, typically 1 to 2 inches, all over. This is a highly modifiable look, so consult your groomer for a length that best fits your and your dog's preference and lifestyle. Continental Cut The continental cut is a glamorous and traditional hairstyle often worn by poodle show dogs. With this look, your poodle's face, throat, feet, and part of the tail are shaved. This look is characterized by full hair on the rib cage and chest, pom poms of fur on the tail, ankles, and hips, as well as a banded topknot on the head. German Trim Looking for a haircut that looks fancy but not too fancy? The German trim uses the power of angles to give your poodle a sharp profile. The hair on your furry friend's legs is left long, while the hair on the body and ears is cut short. This is a great option not only if your poodle is more active but also if your pup is prone to ear infections or ear matting. Modern Cut The modern cut is an elegant hairstyle that combines aesthetics with your poodle's natural features. This cut keeps the hair on the body short, accentuating your poodle's shape. The fur on the head, ears, and tail is left longer to create a fluffy appearance. When your dog has such curly, coarse locks, you may wonder how many trips to the groomer you and your poodle may be making. Poodles and poodle-crosses also go through a coat change in the first year of life, so they need to be groomed more often," says Danna Alexander, owner of Prestige Dog Grooming School. To keep mats and tangles at bay, it's best to brush your poodle at least two to three times a week. Toy poodle haircuts aren't off limits for miniature and standard poodles, just as standard poodle haircuts aren't off limits for miniature and toy poodles. While any poodle can sport any style, there may be common options you'd like to choose from. Because there are various names for different types of poodle haircuts, make sure to bring your groomer a photo of the haircut you'd love your pooch to have. Was this page helpful? Two ponytails look amazing not only for small kids but also for small dogs. Keep the body hair short, sparing the ears. The coat growing here should be longer than the ears. Tie the hair without the ears. Outlined Coat Create an outline for the belly and legs these should have longer hair than the rest of the body. Next, create height on the half back and top of the head. The ears should also have long hair that is tousled and teased. In fact, it seems that the poodles were the ones who created it. So make sure to try it at least once. Summer hairstyle This is a great poodle haircut for the next summer season. You need to keep the hair on the body about half an inch short and leave the hair long on the ears and the tail. A wonderful choice! You need to keep the hair all about the same length but not longer than 1- 1. The plush toy is ready! There are plenty of different dog clothes out there. All you need to do is go shopping. Curly friend Curly poodles look wonderful with short hairstyles. However, this poodle haircut requires a careful approach. Cutting curly hair too short can result in getting rid of the cute spirals. So be careful! Ponytails If your pet is a girl and you want to give it a girly look, consider cutting the hair short on the face and leaving it long on the ears. The hairy long ears will give an impression of ponytails that you can decorate with clips and bows. The shorter the fluffier Your curly poodle will look like a plush toy if you do the right job managing its hair. Ask a professional dog groomer for advice on how long such hair should be to look neat. Puppy style Puppy poodle haircuts must be adorable. There is no need to go out of your way. You will need to grow the hair about 3 — 4 inches long and then take the dog to a professional groomer so he or she can shape the mane. Oh, those ears Poodle ears require special attention. They are often the centerpiece of any poodle hairstyle. Groomed face Poodle face usually requires special attention. The hair in that area is rather short on its own, but you need to keep it neat to contrast with the rest of the body, especially the long hair on the ears. Hairy cutie Poodle owners often go for short poodle haircuts. However, the long ones can even be more attractive. Neat and impressive Poodle hair is often hard to manage. But allow it to grow longer in the winter. The bob If you want your dog to have a closer- to- human hairstyle, you can create a bob. In order to achieve that, you need to grow the hair on top long enough to blend in with the ears. Short classics If you are running out of poodle hairstyle ideas or think that you are short on time, consider this classical cut. You need to trim the hair to be all the same length and leave it about 1 — 2-inch-long on the ears. Winter cut If your pet is getting ready for a cold winter, you need to ensure that the hair is long enough for morning and evening walks. You can even leave it long on the face to keep the dog warm. Half and half This half and half poodle haircut is extremely popular. It is a good choice for a dog show or some other special occasion but not the best idea for the dog itself. In fact, it can be quite uncomfortable for the animal. Princess haircut The simple princess haircut involves leaving enough hair on top to create the appearance of a human hairstyle. You can also leave some hair on the tip of the tail to make a more interesting impression. Tail designs Poodles have long tails and grow a lot of hair on them. Ask the groomer for some ideas or use this one. Teddy bear If you want your poodle to look like a teddy bear, this hairstyle is for you. The hair on the legs is kept about 1 inch long to make an appearance of a bear-like hair. The body can be trimmed a little shorter. A real lady This real lady hairstyle can be a real hit at a dog show. One of them is that the pet is warm during the cold months, and the other one is the room for imagination. The longer the hair, the more creative poodle haircuts you can come up with. Hair coat A hairless poodle face is a wonderful base for funny haircuts that look like a costume. It will seem as if the dog is hiding inside a large hair coat. Play around with the length and the style. Corded coat This dreadlock-like appearance is popular at the dog show. This hairstyle looks truly fabulous but requires a lot of work. Make sure that your dog is ready for the procedure. Corded coats are hard to take care of. Half-breeds If you have a have breed poodle, you might consider experimenting with very short hairstyles. The result will look surprising and benefit your dog. Leave the hair on the tail long enough for some at-home styling. Messy cut While your poodle might look like a fun and huggable teddy bear with a long hair, the dog might not be feeling comfortable lugging all this hair around. Give it a cut! Below are more awesome poodle cuts to get ideas. Their curly coat and malleable texture is like a groomers personal playground. But achieving these results is still a challenge. Katlin Primrose, a professional groomer, tells us about all the various Poodle haircut styles and trims out there. Also check her guide on Pomeranian haircuts for all the styles and trims. Despite the strangeness of it all — there is some reasoning behind the oddly shaped dogs. The general ideas is that Poodles are a working breed, and some of these coat styles are meant to improve mobility while keeping parts of their body warm and protected. Styles outside competitions are based on your personal taste or everyday practicality. Exotic Grooms Even more extreme are the fun Mastergroom Competitions, where groomers are challenged to come up with the most exotic or extreme styles ever see that poodle trimmed and colored to look like a Zebra? The Kennel Cut sometimes called a Sporting Trim follows these same rules, but with a few modifications. And their top knot is left as long as possible, while rounded and shaped by the groomer. Face, feet, tail, and neck shaving are optional but are hallmarks of the breed. The kennel cut is a modified version of a show groom that allows for easier day-to-day upkeep. This trim is known by several names: the Pom-pom Trim, Miami trim, and Vlown trim. Things get confusing with all these different names. Pompoms on legs keep the poodle style while a short body keep the cut easy to maintain. Medium or long topknot. Base of the tail is shaved for easy maintenance and cleanliness. German Trim A much more stylish cut over the Kennel cut, but for those dogs that get constant ear infections or ear matting. This trim is generally hand-scissored to create sharp angles to show off how pretty the dog is. The ears are shaved, either with a short 10 blade or sometimes even shorter with a 5 or 7. This trim also has no tail poof, but is a favorite for more active dogs. Short tail keeps things very easy to keep brushed and clean. Shaved ears, perfect for swimmers or dogs that get ear infections. Longer shaped legs for style, but can be taken quite short. Shorter body with longer legs keep the haircut simple but flashy. The Lamb Cut involves a shorter body with longer legs, and may be as short as a 7 blade body with 4 blade legs all the way up to a blade on the body with hand scissored legs. There is no specific length for this trim. So be sure to inform your groomer on your preferred length. Long legs for a very flashy poodle look. Shaved tail balances the shaved face and neck keeping the trim looking neat and clean for the dog. Topknot can stay as long or short as the owner prefers. Typically their hair is trimmed to the same length throughout the entire body. But what differs from other grooms is the lack of a shaved face or feet. Many owners make modifications based on personal preference. And most prefer a cute, round head more akin to a doodle. This is another trim that wears many names — The Teddy trim, Lab trim, Lagotto trim, Retriever trim, etc… This style is as versatile as the dog that wears it. Legs are kept short to match the body style. Fluffy nose to make a cute face. Continental Trim This is the stand-out groom for Poodles. And for adult dogs this is the AKC standard groom and most prominent at dog shows. Be warned, maintaining this groom requires a lot of time and patience, and is not recommended for the average owner. So why is this the AKC standard? The idea is Poodles are a water-retrieving breed, and their malleable coat texture lends itself to optimizing their performance. Just like the body of a race car is bent and formed to reduce wind resistance and maximize speed, every part of the Continental Poodle Groom was given a purpose. Balls of fur around the legs are meant to keep joints warm, to improve mobility and endurance. The back half of the body is shaved short, to improve mobility when water retrieving. The face is cut short in order to maximize vision and stop debris getting stuck on their snout. Fur is left on the tip of the tail to avoid frost bite. Shaved rear for the dog to not be bogged down in the water while retrieving. Pompoms keep joints warm in cold water. The hindquarters are shaved with pompons optional on the hips. The legs are shaved, leaving bracelets on the hindlegs and puffs on the forelegs. There is a pompon on the end of the tail. The entire shaven foot and a portion of the shaven foreleg above the puff are visible. The rest of the body is left in full coat but may be shaped in order to insure overall balance. In all clips the hair of the topknot may be left free or held in place by elastic bands. The hair is only of sufficient length to present a smooth outline. This is the only area where elastic bands may be used. Want to learn more? We have a full picture guide on 31 haircut styles and trims for several different breeds. You can also find her in the show ring with her dogs, winning awards in rally obedience and show grooming with the Canadian Kennel Club. You might say she's multi-talented when it comes to pets. Related Posts.

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. You have to be logged in to be able to add photos to your review. Charles, Missouri, in our manufacturing facilities in Missouri and South Dakota and in offices all across the country. All of the pet food we distribute and sell in the U. Royal Canin specialises in highly tailored nutritional products for your cat or dog's needs. We make dry kibble, wet food, and veterinary diets. Since , Royal Canin have studied the unique health needs of cats and dogs in the minutest of detail. Royal Canin always put the needs of pets first. That gives us a clear focus that steers our research, underpins the nutritional quality of all our products, and helps cats and dogs live longer, healthier lives. Royal Canin Persian Kitten Food .Royal Canin Maxi Digestive Care .Royal Canin Anallergenic Dog Food .Royal Canin Anallergenic Cat Food .Royal Canin Maxi Dermacomfort .Royal Canin Maxi Dermacomfort 10 Kg .Royal Canin Mini Adult .Royal Canin Pug Adult .Royal Canin Pug Adult 1. Royal Canin Gastro Intestinal Junior .Royal Canin Siamese Adult — 2 Kg .Royal Canin Baby Dog Milk .Royal Canin Baby Cat Milk .Royal Canin Mini Puppy .Royal Canin Medium Adult .Royal Canin Medium Adult - 4 kg .Royal Canin Maxi Adult .Royal Canin Maxi Puppy .Royal Canin Maxi Starter .Royal Canin Maxi Starter - 1 kg .Royal Canin Maxi Starter - 4 kg .Royal Canin Maxi Starter - 15 kg .Royal Canin Rottweiler Adult .Royal Canin Kitten Sterilised .Royal Canin Kitten Sterilised - Gram .Royal Canin Kitten Food .Royal Canin Kitten Food - gram .Royal Canin Kitten Food - 2 kg .Royal Canin Energy — 20 Kg .Royal Canin Medium Puppy Food .Royal Canin Gastrointestinal Cat Food .An exclusive kibble for each breed: a concentration of scientific and nutritional expertise born from the unique knowledge of Royal Canin combined with the practical experience of breeders. Kibble The Labrador Retriever is a breed that tends to eat quickly without chewing its food. The donut shaped kibble of the Labrador Retriever formula helps to slow the rate of ingestion and encourage the Labrador to chew his food. Recently Viewed Products We offer competitive prices on our plus product range. Shop with Confidence. What Not to Feed? Dogs are different and human food can be harmful for them. Home-cooked meals are usually deficient or unbalanced in nutrients, while prepared pet food offers guaranteed nutrition, palatability, digestibility, safety and convenience. Product description- The nutritional requirements of a larger breed dog versus a smaller breed dog vary greatly, therefore it is essential you feed a balanced diet according to size and other particular sensitivities. This food is suitable for large dogs aged 15 months and over — with an adult weight ranging between kg. This dog food is suitable for all dog breeds and is a perfect to give your pets this season. It also contains Colostrum that strengthens immunity and digestive system in delicate new pups, and essential nutrients to maximize growth potential, making it an ideal food for dogs. Pedigree PRO dog food range of products combine high quality ingredients with the science developed with nutritionists and veterinarians at the Waltham Centre. Mother dog during gestation and lactation - weaning puppies up to 2 months old. From 2 to 15 months old.