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They are blue in color and have similar traits as the french bulldog breed, but there is no official Blue French Bulldog Breed Standard. How much do blue French Bulldogs cost? But there are many factors that affect this cost, such as age, health, size, coat color, etc. Blue Frenchie breeders are becoming more common, but it can be difficult finding one near you or within your budget range. What is the rarest color of the French Bulldogs? French bulldogs come in a range of colors, and the rarest color is Blue, followed closely by Lilac. Is a blue French Bulldog rare? Blue French Bulldogs are more common than the other color variations but still extremely rare- less than 0. Are Blue Frenchies purebred? Blue Frenchies are a new breed that some people would say is not purebred. They are bred by breeding the Frenchie with another type of dog, usually a pug or a boxer. This can cause them to have health issues, and some things about their looks may be different from what you might expect if they were true Frenchies, such as the skin pigment. Why are blue French Bulldogs so expensive? Blue Frenchies are pricey for a variety of reasons. For one thing, the breeding costs are extremely high. Another factor behind their high price tag is simply due to their rarity. Are blue French Bulldogs healthy? The answer is both yes and no. Blue Frenchies are often born with health issues that can pose a threat to their lives or shorten them. Some of the most common problems include: Hypoglycemia low blood sugar Skin pigment disorders blue, fawn, etc. During the summer, the blue french bulldog sheds more hair. What health issues do blue French Bulldogs have? The health issues of blue french bulldogs are similar to most other purebred dogs. This causes pain and arthritis for most Frenchies by about a year old. Some blue Frenchies have this condition more serious than others. The average lifespan in a well-cared for dog is between ten and fifteen years. However, the longest living Frenchie was recorded to be sixteen! The temperament of a blue Frenchie is just the same as any other French Bulldog. They are extremely friendly, and their favorite pastimes include cuddling up with their owner on the sofa or napping in bed after playtime outside. If you train them well, they will be a perfect addition to your family. Conclusion You may have seen a blue French Bulldog and felt the need to buy one because they are so cute. But before you do, please be aware that this is an incredibly big commitment with significant costs. Our experience with these dogs has given us insight into how well suited they can be at being pets for their owners — but vice versa as well! You may also like:. Our Three-Step Adoption Process Pick Your Puppy If you see one of our adorable puppies that you would be interested in making a part of your family, you can contact us with any questions. We want you to be comfortable and informed before placing a deposit. Our deposits are nonrefundable and nontransferable. Reserve Your Puppy Once we have answered all of your questions, and you have decided with your family that the time is right to get a puppy, you can place a deposit on the one you want! Once the deposit is placed, that puppy is on hold for you and you can start preparing for it to come home. That is the first available date the puppy can be picked up at our location or leave on transport. We ask that you contact us to set up your pickup appointment before your puppy is ready to go home. Golden Retrievers excel at retrieving game for hunters, tracking, sniffing out contraband for law enforcement, and as therapy and service dogs. These dogs are fairly easy to train and get along in just about any home or family. If you want a loyal, loving, and smart companion, then you should consider adopting one of these pups into your pack. Males are 23 to 24 inches tall and weigh 65 to 75 pounds. Females are generally .Golden Retrievers usually reach their full height by one year of age, and their mature weight by two. Golden Retrievers have a dense, water-repellent outer coat with a thick undercoat. Golden Retrievers come in all shades of gold, from light to dark gold. Poodles Elegant. The Poodle is an impressive dog, as the many best-in-show winners from this dog breed can attest. Poodles are regarded as one of the most intelligent breeds in the world. There are three sizes of Poodle: toy, miniature, and standard. The Toy Poodle stands up to 10 inches tall and weighs about six to nine pounds. The Miniature Poodle stands 11 to 15 inches tall and weighs 15 to 17 pounds. The Standard Poodle stands 15 inches and taller usually 22 inches ; males weigh 45 to 70 pounds and females weigh 45 to 60 pounds. The Poodle is a non-shedding breed. The hair is curly, wiry, and dense, and this unique texture can be trimmed, clipped, groomed, shaved, and otherwise manipulated into all kinds of fanciful shapes. French Bulldog The French Bulldog has enjoyed a long history as a companion dog. Besides being companions, they once served as excellent ratters, but today their job focuses on being fabulous family friends and show dogs. Even apartment dwellers and first-time pet parents will love this affectionate breed. Generally, a French Bulldog is about 11 to 12 inches tall. Males weigh 20 to 28 pounds, females 16 to 24 pounds. The coat of the French Bulldog is short, smooth, shiny, and fine. The skin is loose and wrinkled, especially at the head and shoulders, and has a soft texture. French Bulldogs come in a variety of colors, including fawn, cream, various shades of brindle — a coat patterned with specks and streaks of light and dark markings — such as black brindle and the striking tiger brindle, and brindle and white, known as brindle pied. French Bulldogs can be any color except solid black, liver a solid reddish-brown with brown pigmentation on the lips and nose , mouse a light steely gray , and black with white or tan Let Us At Blue Moon Canine Provide You With Your Forever Lifelong Companion!!!

Ian discusses how we should learn to see the world from our dogs perspective and in doing so, how we can better earn their love and trust. Armed with this love and trust, we will form a better relationship and as a result, effective training becomes just that much more effective and enjoyable for both you and your dog. But please, first make sure to use the search facility in the footer of this website and browse our other sections as the subject may have already been covered: Labrador health and care , Labrador behavior , Labrador puppies , infobites and Labrador breed information. External Resources On Labrador Training Although referring to all breeds in general and not purely Labradors, for those of you that love to watch and not read, the series of dog training videos on www. If you like reading books then check out one of our favorite Lab books: The Complete Labrador Handbook. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. If this is the case,…. How does it feel to be a new puppy parent? You must be chuffed. Take a look at these first few articles. All the ingredients you need for a happy home. But for now, beside your bed is the best place for your puppy to sleep — it will help them feel safe. Puppies like their crates rather cave-like; we suggest covering it with a blanket to block out light, but keep the front open so that they can see outwards. Make sure to make it snug inside with something like a vet bed or a blanket, or why not take it up a notch with a heat pad or hot water bottle to recreate the feeling of their mother. Nothing feels more comforting than that. Before you head to bed, take your puppy out for one last round of loo-going. Set your bedtime at a later time too — midnight sounds about right. Come back calmly, and place your puppy in the crate and turn out the light. Stuff you should know about Sleep Training your Labrador Your puppy will wake up several times in the night and will need the bathroom at least once! Be prepared for not-so-deep sleeps and tired mornings — just for the first few weeks. Having them sleep next to you is only temporary. Consistency is key! As for you, full nights of sleep will start getting closer and closer. Alone Training How can I teach my Labrador puppy to be ok on their own? Start by feeding your puppy in their crate during meal times. If they seem worried by you leaving, stay in view, and just pop right outside their confinement area. Keep it short and sweet: No need to stay away for long, 60 seconds tops will do for now. Repeat: Do this at least once a day to make progress go steady and smoothly. Socialization Exercises To Do this week Letting your Labrador puppy explore the yard Besides the gnomes and questionable yard furniture you may have, letting your puppy explore your own yard is a great and safe way to start showing them the sounds, lights and wonders of the outside world. Exploring different surfaces exercise Make sure that the surfaces you use are safe — nothing too crazy just yet. Gather surfaces such as An oven tray with a small layer of water A piece of astro turf A carpet tile A large piece of tin foil, cardboard or something crinkly PRO TIP: Set up for this exercise in the room your puppy spends most of their time in — it will help them to feel safe and confident. Pop the surfaces out safely on the floor and allow your puppy to investigate them. Nobody has ever enjoyed walking on those. Remember to be patient! Lucky for you — teaching them their name is easy peasy. Say their name in a happy jolly tone and reward with a treat. Repeat five times, 5 and take a break. Practice this 2 or 3 times a day so they get the hang of it. Teach your puppy to sit Teaching your puppy how to sit is a popular one. The first two are far more common though. Keep using this word when they do the right thing, and then follow it up with a food reward. In puppy logic, stinky means yummy. How to do it Start at home; where there are no distractions. Just make sure to shut off Gogglebox in the background. Recall — How to teach our Labrador puppy to come back when called Your puppy already knows their name at this point, so this should be a walk in the park. How to do it Treats and a cheerful voice will be what works here. Do these exercises before meal times so your puppy is more motivated. Practice this 5 times a day and in 3 different places in your house and yard to get them used to coming to you in all settings. How to do it Show your puppy that you have their favorite toy, and start to get them excited about it. When they show interest, throw it a little bit away from you. They will likely follow it and pick it up. If they do, encourage them back to you with your voice, so remember to sound happy! Swap the toy for a treat or another toy and do the process again. Repeat this about 5 times. Instead create more distance and excitement sounds to get them to come to you — spaniels like to show off, so they will likely want to parade what they have! Always swap the toy for something when they have it, this could be a treat or another toy. Resource guarding occurs when we force puppies to give up items or snatch things out of their mouths. For breeds like Labradors who are designed to want to hold things in their mouths, this is pretty important! Resource guarding is when a dog protects a resource from being taken by someone else — dog or human. For some reason, there is a solid list of things puppies find irresistible: Socks. Fact checked by Emily Estep Emily Estep is a biologist and fact checker focused on environmental sciences. Emily has been a proofreader and editor at a variety of online media outlets over the past decade and has reviewed more than articles for The Spruce Pets for factual accuracy. These smart, social dogs are known for their amiable temperaments and their patience. Traditionally bred as hunting dogs, Labs also are among the most popular service dogs, acting as guide dogs for blind people and as therapy dogs. By socializing these dogs early, you can tap into their natural instincts as protectors and companions. Socialize Puppies Labs are natural born people pleasers. Introduce your Lab puppy to as many new people and places as possible during the early months of its life. Keep each new meeting and experience positive and upbeat. Doing this will reinforce your Lab's natural tendency to be friendly and accepting of everyone. If you have young children in the home, be sure to socialize them to the animal as well as the reverse. Although Labs are patient and tolerant, they may still nip at a child who teases or hurts them during play. Make sure everyone knows the boundaries and rules. Exercise Every Day Labrador retrievers are high energy dogs, which is part of the reason they are such great pets for active families. But if Labs aren't given sufficient exercise, they can quickly become bored. This often leads to destructive behavior and other common behavior problems , such as barking, chewing, and digging. It's also why Labs are not well-suited for apartment living; they're too big and too active. Plan on giving your Lab an hour or more of exercise each day. Most Labs love long walks or a game of fetch. These are the perfect way to burn off your Lab's energy. Take advantage of their innate trainability by starting an obedience program as soon as you bring your Labrador retriever home. You can work on basic obedience commands on your own, or sign up for a dog obedience class with a local dog trainer. Classes are a great way to train your Lab while socializing at the same time. Since Labs get to be fairly large and have a tendency to pull on the leash, make walking on a loose leash your first priority. You should also teach your Lab to "come," "drop it," and "fetch," so you can take advantage of its natural tendency for retrieving. Use Positive Reinforcement Training Their eagerness to learn, playfulness, affectionate natures, and their love of treats make Labrador retrievers fantastic candidates for positive reinforcement dog training. Reward their good behaviors with a small treat, a game, or some cuddle time with you. You'll find your Lab is soon offering you the behaviors you like with little prompting. If you decide to use treats in your training, remember that Labs have a tendency to become overweight. Plan on a Long Adolescence One of the most endearing qualities of Labrador retrievers is that they remain very puppy-like long after they've reached adulthood. The downside is that their energy level and tendency to get into mischief continues well into adulthood as well. Therefore, it pays to have behavior management tools handy. The training to become a service animal will vary depending on what the dog will be doing; some are trained to be animal companions to sick children and adults in the hospital, while others are trained to serve as seeing-eye dogs. Others may provide assistance to people with mental illnesses, or behavioral problems. Check the requirements for licensing and training where you live; some places have more strict rules and requirements for service dogs than others. Problems and Proofing Behavior Many Labrador retrievers are happiest and the most well-behaved when they have a job to do. Consider getting involved with a dog sport or training your Lab as a service animal or pet therapy dog. Crate train your Labrador so it doesn't have the run of the house when you're not there to supervise Provide your Lab with a variety of interesting toys and chews to keep it from getting bored. Continue practicing basic obedience commands; it reinforces your Lab's training and provides mental stimulation. No matter what training you decide on, keeping your Lab busy and active is sure to keep one of those famous Lab smiles on its face. Article Sources The Spruce Pets uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy. McGreevy, Paul D et al. Labrador retrievers under primary veterinary care in the UK: demography, mortality and disorders. Canine genetics and epidemiology vol. Print Raising a retriever puppy like the pros Your Labrador puppy can seem small and fragile during those first few weeks home from the breeder. Labrador puppies will learn quickly about acceptable and unacceptable behavior those first few weeks, if you, the owner, are willing to set and enforce boundaries. Here is the training you should be working on with your week-old Labrador puppy. About this series of posts This is post three of a step-by-step training and socialization program for Labrador puppies. If you read our first post , you know that this series follows our training of Bubba, a female chocolate lab puppy. Bubba is already sold as one of our Custom Trained Retrievers, so it is our responsibility to raise and train her until she has progressed to the level of training the owner has requested. In this case, Bubba will be with us for almost a year and a half. Training and socialization for week-old Labrador puppy — week three home Your week-old puppy has been with your family for approximately 3 weeks now. This week you should start noticing some bigger changes with your puppy. Here are some of the changes I notice with Bubba. First, she is growing fast! Bubba is almost ready for a new collar already. I have loosened her current collar twice, and there is no more room to expand it. She is also learning a lot. Bubba is also becoming more personable. She likes and has more interest in people now and wants to be petted and scratched more often. Training equipment for Lab puppy We added a couple new training tools this week. But a thicker check cord will also work. We use this check cord for longer outside marks and assistant-marks which I will discuss more in a bit. Puppy sized canvas or light-weight plastic bumpers In week two, we introduced formal retrieving in a hallway in the house. In week three, we move outside with retrieving and introduce assistant throws, so it is helpful to have a few more bumpers. Puppy training that will continue Much of the training I have been working on for the past two weeks with Bubba will continue into this week and beyond. Dog training is not something that has a definitive end-date. For instance, you teach your puppy to SIT and then you must work and practice that command daily or weekly, often for months before the response to the command is solid. But even once the response is solid, you cannot completely stop training. If you stop training, even an older dog, the dog can lose the previous training. So, realize that you are never done working with your dog, especially on obedience training. Some areas that we will continue training Bubba on are: Crate training Bubba is doing great at crate training. She rarely makes any noise while in her crate and settles down quickly after being put into her crate. In the upcoming weeks, we will work towards getting Bubba to enter her crate on command. Looking for more information on crate training? Housebreaking Housebreaking Bubba is going well. We have caught her in a few accidents, but she already seems to understand that she is not supposed to go potty inside. This does not mean that she is done housebreaking. We still expect accidents and will for a few months, so we watch her carefully while she is running around in the house. We also praise her for behaviors like going to the door and tapping the door or whining at the door. These behaviors are rewarded with us taking her outside to go potty. When she goes potty outside, we praise her and then take her right back in. We want her to start understanding that these cue behaviors will get her out to go potty and that is all. Looking for more information on housebreaking? But we will also add a few new ones. We will use this while teaching our puppy the SIT command. It also will be used going forward, anytime we are done working on structured obedience work. We will release the dog from formal work with the OKAY command. But we also use it to mean go to a certain place, such as on a mat or stand. Or, when we want her to go into her crate or kennel. This is an associative command, meaning the puppy will learn the command through our repetition of the word as we tie it to a behavior. But over time, she will make the association and will perform it on her own. This is very important especially if you ever plan on doing more advanced training with your retriever. You will use whatever your dogs name is. A few commands that we will continue to work on this week We will continue to work on obedience commands this week and in the weeks to come. Each week we will expect a little more and better compliance and performance to the command. She is sitting when I put the leash and chain collar on her and when I am taking it off. This week we also added SIT before eating. We only make her SIT for a few seconds; we are working on control. She does not SIT on her own yet, but she will be doing that within a week or so I would guess. Right now, I grab her collar and say SIT. In week three, I have a slightly higher expectation. On walks, I make her walk right beside me for a minute or two using the HEEL command before releasing her and letting her run back and forth a bit. This tells me that she understands the command. Then release her. If every time your puppy comes to you, you put her away or take something away from her, soon your puppy will not want to come to you. You must work hard to make coming to you a good experience for your puppy. So, call her, praise her when she comes and release. Remember: Never use a HERE command if you are not in the position of being able to enforce the command. Make every effort to socialize your puppy You should continue to take steps to socialize your week-old puppy. Anything you can think of. The more things and situations you expose your puppy to, the better your puppy will be equipped to adjust and learn in the future. Learn more about socialization. Hand throws with a puppy bumper you are throwing out a bumper done outside will carry a lot more distraction than retrieves in a hallway. Just pick up the bumper and try again tomorrow. When retrieving outside, make sure you have a long foot rope attached to your puppy. Never try to do retrieves outside without a rope. You will have problems and encourage bad behaviors. You must have a way to get the puppy to come back to you, otherwise you should not be doing retrieves outside. Once your puppy is doing well retrieving outside, you are ready to introduce assistant marks. Introduction to assistant marks The most important thing we worked on with Bubba this week is assistant marks. Assistant marks are retrieves where someone else is throwing the bumper, not you. This teaches your puppy to watch out in the field for a mark. It is very rare that a duck will come from behind you, fly over your head and you shoot it. The ducks and pheasants will be falling in front of you, so the dog must learn to look out and watch for the mark. We start assistant marks on very short grass with white plugs so that the puppy can clearly see the item on the ground. We hold the puppy in a SIT position facing a thrower who is about 20 feet from you. When your puppy picks up the bumper, immediately start calling her back to you. Remember, you should have the foot check cord on her so you can pull the puppy in if needed. Then, take the bumper from her, throw it behind you, make your puppy sit facing the thrower again and repeat. Only do retrieves and then call it a day. Soon your puppy will learn this game and love it. They will start facing the thrower on their own and sitting and waiting for a mark. Final thoughts on training for your week-old Labrador puppy week-old puppies are so eager to learn, so be sure and take advantage of this enthusiasm to teach new concepts and enforce previous ones. Continue to teach your puppy to handle more and more pressure and correction while maintaining a good attitude. Lastly, assistant marks are a big deal. Once a dog learns this part of the game, you can work to increase the distance and complexity of the marks. If you are struggling or need additional help with your new puppy, you can email me ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time, happy retrieving. Print Early obedience first step to better hunting dog Labrador puppies start out sweet and innocent. All you want to do is cuddle up with your pup and love them! And you should! But rest assured the innocence will not last. As your pup gains confidence and courage, they will begin to test you in many ways. That is why you must obedience train your Labrador puppy. Early obedience training is key to establishing borders and boundaries that will help your puppy grow, learn, and adjust with a good attitude. There is no shortcut to doing this, just use the name often when you talk to your puppy. Over time, the pup will start to respond to the name. Socialization, while not technically obedience training, is the single most important thing you can teach your puppy during the first few months of life. If you are not sure how to do this, refer to this post. Tools needed to obedience train Labrador puppy You will need a few tools to teach your puppy obedience. The products I recommend I believe are a good value or good investment for anyone working to train or maintain training on their retriever. When possible, I include links to the product. Some of these links may be Amazon or other affiliate links in which I am paid a small commission at no cost to you. All opinions and recommendations are my own. Collar — You should purchase a size appropriate collar for your new puppy. You may have to buy new ones as your dog grows, but it is important for your puppy to get used to wearing a collar early on. A simple nylon adjustable collar works great. Chain collar — If your puppy is more than a few months old, a chain or prong collar is extremely helpful in teaching obedience, but they must be used correctly. For more information on how to put a chain collar on your dog correctly refer to this video. A longer lead, called a check cord, is also useful for teaching HERE and retrieving. You can learn more about that here. Heeling stick optional — While optional, a heeling stick can be especially helpful in teaching basic obedience. Treats — Treats are good for teaching very young puppies. I use treats for pups under 12 weeks of age, but treats should be discontinued rather quickly. When to start basic puppy obedience training Obedience training can and should start within the first couple weeks of having your puppy home. Young puppies are ready and willing to learn and teaching obedience to a young puppy is much easier than teaching it to an older dog. How long should obedience sessions be? Most labs do not enjoy obedience training. For this reason, we aim to keep obedience sessions short, especially if your dog is under 4-months of age. Five to ten minutes of obedience a day can work wonders. Especially if you are consistent. Using rewards or praise to teach obedience Many people like to use treats or rewards for obedience training. And this can work, especially with very young dogs. But for hunting dogs, over the long-term treats can become a problem. We do not want our dogs, or the dogs we train to be obedient only because they are getting a food reward. We want them to be obedient because they understand their place in the family and respect the owners. To get these lasting results, we use praise words and petting and a reward that retrievers live for — retrieves! Well-timed praise is a particularly important part of dog training. A message that it is okay to ignore me the first 9 times! This simply means that after a few minutes of formal obedience training, we release the dog with an OKAY command and that means they can run around and be a dog. We then throw a bumper or plug a for the dog to retriever. We do this a few times with a lot of excitement and allow the dog to retrieve the bumper. For retriever breeds, this is often more effective than a food reward. Be careful that you are not letting your puppy get into bad habits with retrieving. For instance, if your puppy often goes out to retrieve the bumper but then runs away with it, or picks it up and drops it, do not continue doing retrieves. While retrieving is a reward for many Labs, it is not an excuse to engage in behaviors that are not going to be acceptable in the field. If you want to learn more about how to properly teach your Lab to retrieve, check out How can I teach my retriever puppy to fetch? Introduction to leash and nylon collar The very first step for any puppy obedience is to introduce your puppy to a regular collar and leash. This should be done in two separate steps, first the collar and then the leash. Introduce the collar by putting a nylon type collar on your puppy. This is normal and you should not react to it. Introducing the leash is a little different. We like to do this outside. After a few sessions of this introduction, you can start holding the leash by the end and walking with the puppy. When the puppy tries to run or walk away, hold tight to the leash, and just let the puppy get used to the resistance. Some puppies have a hard time with this and will growl or whine and whip themselves around at the pressure, but most will not. Remain calm and after a few sessions the puppy should get used to the resistance of the leash. Do not allow the puppy to pull you around. That will make for some bad behaviors that you will need to correct later. If you cannot control your puppy with just a regular collar and leash, you may need to move to a chain or prong collar to keep control. What commands to teach Lab puppy There are only four basic obedience commands that you need to teach your young puppy. Remember when it comes to commands, less is more. OKAY — this is a release command, basically tells your dog were done training, go be a dog. As your puppy grows and learns more, there are some other commands that may be needed, but for puppies I like to start with just the four above. Dog training requires consistency Before you start with obedience training, I want to make a note about the importance of consistency. Obedience training only works if you are consistent. This means that when you say a command, you expect the puppy to perform the command, and are willing to take steps to make the puppy perform the command. If you do not remain consistent in this expectation, you will confuse your dog and get poor results from your training. You and your family must be consistent! How to start obedience training Lab puppy The first command you want to start teaching your puppy is SIT. This is quite easy to teach with a small puppy but gets a little tougher as they get bigger. Then release the puppy with the OKAY command. Repeat this process several times, then stop. If your puppy is weeks old, you can repeat this training several times a day for only a couple minutes at a time. This will be a two-person job for a little while. The other person will put the food down a few feet from the puppy. Then release the puppy to eat saying OKAY. As the pup learns and understands the command better, you will no longer need a second person to hold the puppy. You must be a little careful here because young puppies do not have great bladder control and making them wait, even a few seconds, can mean the difference between an accident and them doing their business outside. But this is a great way to teach impulse control and manners to your puppy. I do not want to have to fight for a position by the door. You can usually start working on this within a week or two of teaching SIT. A great way to teach this command to young puppies is to use two people and sit in a long hallway, one at each end. Take turns calling your puppy with a HERE command. A toy or treat can often help the process. Let your puppy run around a bit but hold onto the end of the cord. Occasionally, call you puppy with a HERE command. It can be helpful at first to crouch down to encourage the puppy to run towards you. Then release the puppy with an OKAY command. Do this a few more times and repeat daily until the puppy is coming to you without you needing to pull the cord. It is also the command most of our clients struggle with the most. Mostly because they are using the wrong tool for the job. For heeling work, it is important that you work with a chain or prong collar. This will give you more control and stop the pulling and surging that many people struggle with. Using a chain or prong collar and a six-foot leash, start walking your puppy at your side. If your puppy is young, be sure to use a puppy chain collar which is smaller than chain collars for adult dogs. And make sure that you are putting it on correctly! An alternate tool to a chain collar and leash is the Wonder or Command Lead. These work great for teaching HEEL. As you start walking use gently tugs on the chain collar with the command HERE to keep your puppy at your side. If your puppy surges or pulls ahead, simply make a degree turn and start walking the other direction giving a sharp, upward tug on the chain collar and saying HEEL several times until the dog is back in a heeling position. Many of our clients have told us they never left their driveway the first few days! But if you are patient and consistent, your dog will quickly learn that if they want to go for a walk, they need to stay at your side. If you want to learn and progress in more obedience work, check out these obedience drills for retrievers. Final thoughts on how to teach your lab puppy obedience Teaching your puppy obedience may take a lot of patience, time and work, but it is such an important thing to do. You will never regret the time! A well-mannered dog is such a joy to be around both in the home and in the field. How to obedience train Labrador puppy. Labrador Retriever pups are working dogs. This means they live to please you for a treat. The more you engage them with different puppy training behaviors the happier they will be. Of course, Labs will be Labs, and this means that dogs do dog things unless they are trained to follow your expectations. Potty training your puppy is just the beginning of you making clear expectations for your Lab. Puppy training from long leash training to potty training, to not nipping is discussed in greater detail along with clear, easy to follow videos at www. But we will give you an expert training tip summary below. For this reason, you need to become an expert on puppy training. Contact us for a discount on the Puppy Trained Right positive reinforcement training program. Expose your puppy to as many different people and situations possible. Teach dog to dog manners when required. Use Positive Reinforcement. Allow for Play with Other Puppies. Play with other Lab Puppies not only allows your pup to get some exercise it is a form of puppy socialization. Bond with your Puppy. Once a strong bond is formed your Lab Puppy will want to please you even more. Potty Train Right Away. Learn how Dogs Learn. Training a Lab puppy is easy if you understand how to go about it. Give your Lab Puppy Play time to Explore. Labs need this as part of their natural development. Spend more time with your puppy when young. This is the time when your expectations should be clearly outlined and can decrease as she gets older. Begin Training day 1. This happens weather or not you intend it to. Every action and reaction is something your puppy uses to form new habits. So ignoring them jumping up as an 8 week old puppy is training them to jump up and will be much more difficult to un-train once they are 70 lbs. Relax and make learning fun. Your pup needs you happy and enjoying yourself! Use Positive Training Methods because they work. This means reward what you desire. Ensure most Experiences are Positive. Imagine a training session of No, No, No, No! Expose them to as Many Human Situations possible. One cause is that there was not adequate socialization with different men. Be Patient. You are building an amazing K9 personality. The window is between 8 and 20 weeks old. Make the most of it. The better your Lab is socialized the happier they will be. Anxiety in dogs comes from many things. The more things your dog is comfortable with the less chance for anxiety and therefore the happier they are. Prepare yourself, your family and your home before your puppy comes home. It is too late once you meet your puppy as simply interacting with her is training. Allow for Safe Experiences both in the home and outside. Seek professional trainers to help guide you when faced with a problem. Be consistent. Clear expectations are easiest to learn. Focus on Guiding not controlling. Best Start Training or Training Classes are beneficial for both you and your puppy. Expect Success. We tend to move in the direction we believe we will travel. Reward the Behaviors you want to see even something as simple as 4 paws on the ground if you are trying to train your Lab not to jump up on you. Become Well informed. You are teaching a skill like reading that takes clear expectations and builds upon last session. Lab Puppies need constant supervision either human, a crate, a fenced area or a baby gate across a doorway. Encourage a soft mouth. Keep your training up or it will be forgotten. Begin Walking on a Loose Leash Right away. This is always easier for your Lab when they are 12 lbs not 70lbs. Change direction before the leash tightens so they are followers not leaders. This is much easier to train before it happens than correct. Allow alone time for your Lab. Know when to end a training session. End training before your puppy quits. Make time for a few shorter training Sessions. Three fifteen minute sessions are better than one 45 min one. Teach your Lab to respond to their name. Teach your Labrador basic obedience before tricks-come, sit, stay, down, leave it. Have all humans learn the commands and be consistent. Ignore undesirable behaviors. Ignoring includes not saying no, bad dog, touching your dog or making eye contact. Find rewards that your Retriever loves and use them when you have breakthrough training moments. Adjust your expectations as your Lab puppy matures, the older more experienced the higher the expectation. Set Realistic Expectations. Minimize distractions when you begin training. Be aware of your Body Language, Labradors pick up cues from you. Be aware of your leash tension. A tight leash says anxiety from the handler. Know when to get Help .Have fun! Understand that Labs do Lab things. Make them work for food and treats. Exercise your Retriever properly for both intensity and duration. Learn some exercise games Labs love. Give lots of repetition. Stop before they get bored. Establish a Pattern by Praising. Redirect undesired behavior. Accept partial actions at first and gradually increase your expectations. When treats end Verbal treats and chin scratches rule. They will know. Enjoy your well balanced purebred Lab puppy for many years. Purebred Lab Retrievers, are they easier to train? The answer to that is definitely maybe! Not all purebreds are bred for intelligence. For example, if a Labrador Retriever breeder chooses to breed their dogs for a certain look then they may overlook intelligence as one of the important characteristics in order to get a specific Lab look. We however breed for intelligence, health and temperament. So in our case, yes, our Purebred Lab Puppies are easier to train than many because we choose the parents and their puppies specifically for their smarts!

With its medium to small dog size, this puppy often inherits the face of the Chihuahua parent and the body of the Boxer. Sometimes, they can inherit the wrinkled face of the Boxer. Much like its parents, this highly intelligent dog breed has a clever and alert expression, something we are used to seeing in Chihuahuas. The only downside to this puppy is its inability to adapt to weather changes. So, if your area has a too hot or too cold climate, you might be better off with a different puppy. With that in mind, today, we will talk about the personality traits, appearance, health issues, and exercise needs of the Boxer Chihuahua mix. Meet The Breed Some might say there are a few more interesting mixed breeds. The Boxachi is a designer breed, a cross between a purebred Chihuahua and a Boxer parent. When combined together, these two canines make a sassy and playful pet that is loyal and devoted to its owners and parents. It is a rare sight to see. What you have here is an adorable, playful puppy, with just a tiny bit of sass. As a fairly new designer dog, the Chihuahua Boxer mix is not quite as popular as Doodle breeds , for example. Meet The Parents As we said before, this is a relatively new designer breed. Very few is known about it. So, how can we try and find out more about this beautiful puppy? Well, we can start by learning more about its parent breeds. Chihuahua First off, we start with the Chihuahua, the smaller puppy in the equation. Famously known as one of the smallest, if not the smallest dogs in the canine world, Chihuahuas do not let their size bother them. What you get here is a small dog with plenty of character. Despite their size, they have a bold and confident personality. With that in mind, here are the most common personality traits of a Chihuahua puppy: Loyal and affectionate with their owners, they crave attention and want nothing more than to cuddle Despite their size, they have a protective instinct and can and will guard their territory and owners They have excellent hearing, making them perfect watchdogs. We have to mention they are alert and will bark to notify their owners of any potential danger or problem. Sometimes, even the tiniest sound can make them go berserk Temperamental dogs that can snap or growl when they feel uncomfortable or threatened They love to play and can be quite energetic. They are a bundle of joy and energy in a small package Most importantly, Chihuahuas are intelligent and can pick up commands quite easily They are known to have a bit of a stubborn streak Boxer Next on the list is the Boxer parent, the other part of the equation. In the past several years, Boxers have gone up in popularity. And one of the reasons is their unique and cuddly face. But do not forget their personality. Famous as the clowns in the canine world, they will play and entertain you 24 x 7. With that in mind, here are some of the most common personality traits of Boxers: Friendly with people and other animals, they rarely, if ever show signs of aggressiveness and dominance Social dogs that love to be around family members High-energy puppies that need plenty of exercise and playtime Can be a bit stubborn, and does not always listen to commands Their playful and silly personality will make you fall in love with the breed Appearance When it comes to a Boxer Chihuahua mix, we have to note that this dog can vary in size. You can never know how big it will get. Of course, unless you adopt an adult. Yet, the maximum they can grow up to is 40 lbs. When you look at the parent breeds, they are on different sides of the size spectrum. In some cases, you might end up with a small lap adorable dog, or you can end up with a puppy as big as the Boxer. For the most part, they grow somewhere in the middle, and rarely if ever grow bigger than 40 pounds. Their coat is short, glossy, and straight. These puppies are available in a range of colors. Their short coat can be either dark brown, light brown, golden, brindle, tan, or anything in between. Temperament One of the reasons why people fall in love with the Chihuahua Boxer mix is that this puppy is guaranteed fun and entertainment 24 x 7. Playful and affectionate, they are loyal and devoted to the family. As we saw from the personality traits of the parents, these puppies have plenty of positive vibes. Yes, they have a mischievous side, but they are mostly sweet, loving, affectionate, and loyal. Fun fact: The Boxer parent is rarely aware of its size. Even a big mixed breed here will turn into a cuddle companion dog. These dogs love sitting in your lap, no matter their size. Now speaking of their intelligence, you will find they are quite smart. They do pack some stubbornness, but they are generally easy to train and will follow your guidance. There are rare moments, however, when your Boxer mix will want to do as it pleases him. Do not be surprised. Expect it. These moments are rare, and while he can go his course outside, he will eventually come to you. After all, these dogs crave attention, and cannot live without human companionship. They are amazing for a family with small or adult children. They love playing with children and will be quite gentle with them. Of course, you need to supervise their play. After, this is not a Golden Retriever or Labrador Retriever that will sit no matter if you tug its ears or pull its tail. They also get along with other animals, but be careful of their territorial instinct. It is something that comes from the Chihuahua parent. When raised together with other animals, they will do amazing. And with socialization, you can solve any issue. But they will need time to warm up to other pets in the household. Training Training these puppies can be a bit of a challenge. They do study quickly and pick up commands easily. But they have a stubborn streak and can be sassy and independent. Be patient with your pet. Use positive reinforcement, and always reward with treats and praise. They do not like toys as much as they like treats and dog food. Be sure you establish yourself as the leader of the pack. This will ensure your dog follows your lead. Exercise Needs The two parents of the Boxachi are high-energy dogs that need plenty of physical exercise. Some mental stimulation will do as well, but they are not some of the smartest dogs that need brain teasers and games all day long. Generally speaking, this Chihuahua mix puppy needs between 45 and 60 minutes of physical exercise per day. Walks and playtime will do it. The good news is Chihuahuas do not need a yard. If your mixed breed inherits personality traits and appearance features from its Chi parent, you can do it with a small apartment. Health Issues One of the reasons why the Boxer is often crossed with other breeds is because of its health issues. As a brachycephalic dog, the Boxer is prone to breathing issues, heart problems, and more. Luckily, the other part of the equation is the Chihuahua, one of the healthiest dogs around. The offspring of Chihuahua and Boxer can live anywhere between 10 and 15 years. That is a quite long life for a companion pet. Grooming No matter which parent is dominant, your mixed dog will have a short coat. That will result in moderate shedding, but nothing to be worried about. Brushing their coat once per week will suffice. Do not bathe them too often. You might remove their natural skin oils. Boxers and their mixes are a lot like cats. They groom themselves when needed. So, they considered a clean breed. One of the most lovable dogs around Thanks to the Chihuahua parent, Boxer mixes live a longer life They provide 24 x 7 entertainment Facebook. DBR, IDCR Temperament and Behavior Much like its parents, the Boxachi is a highly intelligent breed with a clever and alert expression, and are loyal and fond of their owners and family members. If they are brought up together, they are good with kids and other pets and can mingle with them well. Not being too adaptable to weather changes, some individuals might bear the heat, but hardly low temperatures. Some Boxachis can be quite active, while others are average. Either way, owing to their short stature, they are suited for apartment life. Boxachis are courageous, with an innate guarding instinct. Care Exercise Though they are well-suited for apartment life, never skip taking your Boxachi out for a walk or a jog every day, since they love outdoors. Grooming They are moderate shedders, and have a short coat, which makes grooming and maintenance easy. Brush the coat twice a week, but do not trim. Health Problems Like most crossbred dogs, they do not have any diseases exclusive to their breed. But do not skip the vaccine dates and visiting the vet annually for a general checkup. Training Do not yell if your pup barks a lot or too loudly. To train your dog, begin with pressing your doorbell. Once it understands your gesture, give it a pat or a treat. Gradually, your dog will learn to discontinue the connection between the sound of a doorbell and its craving to bark. Start socializing it from the time they are young. Other than for exercise, you can also take them out for shopping, a drive around your neighborhood, strolling through the greens, or visits to a dog park. Pleasant experiences, new places or new faces will help your dog stay calm and balanced. Leave a Reply Your email address will not be published. As always, you should check with your veterinarian before picking out recipes for your pooch to ensure they are getting all the nutrients they need. Checking with your vet is especially important for this breed to their variance in size. For example, you may have a Boxach that weighs pounds while the one you read about online is closer to 40 pounds. While you are at it, you also want to discuss treats and snacks , as well. We can tell you that this pooch can be prone to weight gain. For this reason, you want to stay away from meals and treats that are high in unhealthy fats, sugars, processed and artificial ingredients, and other not wholesome foods. They do well with two walks per day along with some additional playtime. There are a few details to keep in mind, however. First, if they are on the bigger side, it is better to have some outdoor space for them to run. You can also take them on jogs, hikes , and other more strenuous activities. On the other hand, if they are on the smaller side of the canine community, you need to be more careful. Luckily, if they are smaller in stature, they can have more playtime indoors. Regardless of size, however, you need to keep them on a leash at all times when outdoors. They can be great escape artists. Other Activities With a smarty on your hands, you will want to give them some brain games to keep them busy. This can be in the form of toys , teaching them tricks, or playing games. This breed also loves to tackle and pounce, so stuffed animals are fun for them along with chew toys to keep that pastime from being taken out on your furniture. First and foremost, they are a quick study, so learning the rules is not an issue. Instead, they can be stubborn, sassy, and independent. You will have to be patient with your pet and keep training sessions quick and fun. As always, positive reinforcement works wonders. Be that as it may, they also need an alpha to follow. At the end of the day, if you are consistent, persistent, and repetitive, your pooch will learn their lessons and be better for it. They are devoted to you, and ultimately want to make you happy and smile. Plus, they like the treat, too. We also wanted to quickly point out here that while all training is important, socialization at a young age is imperative for the Boxachi. You want to start this training from day one if possible while also adding in obedience, behavioral, and housebreaking one step at a time. Thankfully, their nail, ear, and teeth care are pretty basic. You want to brush their teeth as often as possible. You will also need to check their ears twice a week and clean them gently with a cotton swab and canine ear cleaning product. Nails are done as needed typically every four to six weeks. It is their coat fur where things can get confusing, so we are going to break it into two sections. Short Fur If your Choxer has short fur, you will need to brush them weekly to get all excess hair off and keep their coat shiny and healthy. They are not overly big shedders, but you want to keep the excess to a minimum. When it comes to baths, it will depend on whether they take after their Boxer or Chihuahua side. With that being said, it is recommended that you only bath a Boxer when they really need it as it strips their fur of essential oils. We would advise following this dictate for the short-haired Boxachi. Instead, if you need to clean them more often, you can wipe them down with a damp face cloth to remove any dirt or debris. You also want to note that this short-haired pooch does not do well in cold weather. Even if they are on the bigger side, you need to provide them with a sweater in the winter and colder months. Long Fur When your pup has longer fur, it is important to brush them with a pin and slicker brush several times a week. Not only will these keep excess hair from getting all over your furniture and clothes, but it will also keep mats from forming. Unlike the Boxer, experts recommend that you bathe your Chihuahua often. This is also what they advise from a longer-haired Boxachi. This will help keep them clean, and their fur healthy. Also, if your pup is on the smaller side, you will still want to provide them with a sweater in the winter to keep them warm. Bigger dogs may not need to be careful when the temperatures plummet. For that reason, we have listed the serious and most likely problems along with the minor and less-likely issues below. Thankfully, this is a pretty healthy pooch, but regular check-ups are important to make sure they stay that way. Minor Conditions.

Breeds The link has been copied! French Bulldogs are an adorable and popular breed of dog known for their distinctive bat-like ears. These cute canines have captured the hearts of people all around the world, but many potential owners wonder when their furry friends' ears will stand up. The good news is that French Bulldog ears typically do stand up eventually, but the process can vary from dog to dog. In this article, we'll explore the fascinating world of French Bulldog ears and learn when you can expect them to stand up. So get ready to fall even more in love with these lovable pups! Typically, French Bulldog puppies' ears will start to stand up between weeks of age. However, some puppies may take longer to develop, and their ears may not stand up until they are 6 months old or even longer. The reason for this variation is that each dog's genetics play a significant role in the shape and development of their ears. While you're waiting for your puppy French Bulldog's ears to stand up, it's also a good time to work on potty training. Starting early and using positive reinforcement techniques can help establish good habits and prevent accidents in the house. With patience and consistency, you can successfully potty train your Frenchie while also enjoying their adorable and unique appearance. It is also important to note that some French Bulldogs' ears may never stand up fully, which is completely normal and doesn't affect their health or happiness. So, whether your Frenchie's ears stand up quickly or take their time, they will still be adorable and loved. French Bulldogs are famous for their cute and distinctive bat-like ears, and owners often wonder when their puppy's ears will stand up. Typically, French Bulldog puppies' ears will begin to stand up between weeks of age. However, it's not unusual for some puppies to take longer to develop, and their ears may not stand up until they are several months old. It's essential to note that the ear development process can be different for each puppy. Some may have both ears standing up at the same time, while others may have one ear up and the other down for a while. This variation is normal and not necessarily a cause for concern. As your French Bulldog's ears start to stand up, you may notice some changes in their behavior. They may become more attentive and start to respond to sounds and noises around them. Their ears will also become more sensitive, and they may start to tilt their heads to listen to sounds better. If your French Bulldog's ears are not standing up by the time they reach six months of age, it's worth speaking to your veterinarian. Still, it's important to note that some French Bulldogs' ears may never stand up fully, and this is completely normal and doesn't affect their health or happiness. If your French Bulldog's ears are still down even after they are six months old, there could be a few reasons why. Firstly, it's worth noting that every dog is unique, and some may take longer to develop than others. While most French Bulldog puppies' ears start to stand up between weeks of age, it's not unusual for some puppies to take a bit longer. However, if your French Bulldog's ears are still down past the six-month mark, it's worth speaking to your veterinarian to rule out any underlying health issues. Sometimes, ear infections or other medical conditions can affect the development of your dog's ears. Another reason why your French Bulldog's ears may be down is genetics. It's possible that your dog inherited genes from their parents that affect the shape and position of their ears, resulting in ears that may not stand up fully. Finally, it's essential to remember that not all French Bulldogs' ears will stand up fully, and this is completely normal. Your furry friend will still be adorable and loved, regardless of whether their ears stand up or not. Yes, it is entirely possible for French Bulldog ears to stay down. While many French Bulldog puppies' ears will start to stand up between weeks of age, there is always variation in the development of individual dogs, and some may have ears that do not stand up fully. Additionally, genetics can play a significant role in the shape and development of French Bulldog ears. Some French Bulldogs may inherit genes from their parents that result in ears that do not stand up fully. It's worth noting that a French Bulldog's ear position does not affect their health or happiness. Whether their ears are up or down, your furry friend will still be a beloved member of your family. If you're concerned about your French Bulldog's ears, it's always best to speak to your veterinarian to rule out any underlying health issues. However, if your dog is healthy and happy, don't worry too much about their ears. They will still be adorable and loved just the way they are! The exotic coloring of a French Bulldog, such as lilac , merle , fluffy , platinum , or red fawn , is determined by genetics and is not related to the dog's ear position. The color of a French Bulldog's coat is determined by the interaction between different genes, and the resulting coat color is usually evident from birth. The ear position of a French Bulldog can change as the dog grows and develops, but this is not related to changes in coat color or pattern. It is worth noting that some French Bulldogs may experience changes in their coat color or pattern over time, but this is typically due to factors such as exposure to sunlight, diet, or hormonal changes. Additionally, while a Frenchie's ears may change in position as they grow, it is unlikely to have any impact on the dog's coat color or pattern. It is important to note that the term " Micro French Bulldog " is not a recognized or standardized term by reputable breed organizations, and is often used to describe French Bulldogs that have been bred for a smaller size through breeding practices. In general, the time it takes for a French Bulldog's ears to stand up can vary from dog to dog, and is not necessarily related to the dog's size or breeding. Here are two easy ways to help your French Bulldog's ears stand up: Add Calcium-Rich Foods to Their Diet One way to help your French Bulldog's ears stand up is to make sure they are getting enough calcium in their diet. Calcium is a crucial nutrient that supports bone development and growth, including the cartilage in your dog's ears. You can increase your French Bulldog's calcium intake by adding calcium-rich foods to their diet. Foods like yogurt, cheese, and bone broth are excellent sources of calcium and can help support the development of your dog's ears. Consult Your Vet About Calcium Injections or Supplements If you're concerned about your French Bulldog's ear development or think they may need additional calcium, speak to your veterinarian about the best course of action. Your veterinarian can advise you on the appropriate dosage and form of calcium to give your dog, as well as monitor their health to ensure they are not experiencing any negative side effects. In addition to discussing calcium supplementation with your veterinarian, they can also rule out any underlying health issues that may be affecting your French Bulldog's ear development. If there are any health concerns, your veterinarian can provide treatment or recommend lifestyle changes that can help support your dog's overall health and wellbeing. What Taping Method Is the Best? While there are several methods of taping French Bulldog ears, there is no one "best" method that works for all dogs. Each dog is unique, and their ear development can vary, so what works for one dog may not work for another. However, there are a few general guidelines to keep in mind when taping French Bulldog ears. First, it's important to start taping as early as possible, ideally between weeks of age when the ears are still soft and pliable. This can help encourage the ears to stand up and prevent them from flopping over. When taping, use a soft, non-irritating tape, such as a surgical or athletic tape, and avoid using anything too sticky that can pull or damage the skin. It's also important to wrap the tape gently but securely around the base of the ear, creating a slight fold in the ear to help encourage it to stand up. Taping Their Ears Step-By-Step Guide It's essential to follow proper techniques and guidelines to avoid causing any discomfort or injury to your dog. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to tape your French Bulldog's ears: Clean the ears: Before taping your French Bulldog's ears, make sure they are clean and dry. Use a gentle, pet-friendly ear cleaner to clean the inside of their ears, being careful not to insert the cleaner too far into the ear canal. Prepare the tape: Use a soft, non-irritating tape, such as a surgical or athletic tape, and cut it into strips that are about inches long. Apply the tape: Starting at the base of your French Bulldog's ear, gently fold the ear over and wrap the tape around the base of the ear, creating a slight fold in the ear to help encourage it to stand up. Be sure to wrap the tape gently but securely, avoiding any gaps or wrinkles. Continue wrapping: Continue wrapping the tape around the ear, overlapping each strip of tape slightly, until you reach the tip of the ear. Make sure the tape is snug but not too tight, as this can cause discomfort or injury to your dog. Monitor your dog: Check your French Bulldog's ears regularly to make sure they are not becoming irritated or uncomfortable. If you notice any signs of discomfort or injury, remove the tape immediately and speak to your veterinarian. Remove the tape: After a few days or a week, remove the tape and let your French Bulldog's ears rest for a few days before taping them again. It's important to give your dog's ears time to rest between taping to avoid irritation or injury. It's essential to remember that taping should be done under the guidance of a veterinarian or experienced breeder to ensure that it is done correctly and safely. While taping can be helpful in encouraging ear development, it's not a guarantee that your French Bulldog's ears will stand up. Some dogs may still have ears that do not stand up fully, even with taping. If you have to bandage your French Bulldog's ears, it's important to change the bandage regularly to ensure that it remains clean and dry, and to prevent any irritation or discomfort to your dog's ears. The frequency of bandage changes will depend on your dog's individual needs and the severity of the issue being treated. In general, most veterinarians will recommend changing the bandage at least once a day, and possibly more frequently if the bandage becomes soiled or wet. It's important to monitor your French Bulldog's ears closely while they are bandaged to ensure that the bandage is not too tight or causing any irritation or discomfort. If you notice any signs of irritation or if your dog seems uncomfortable, it's important to remove the bandage immediately and speak to your veterinarian. In addition to changing the bandage regularly, it's important to keep the ears clean and dry, as excess moisture can lead to infection or other issues. Use a gentle ear cleaner to clean the inside of your dog's ears, being careful not to insert the cleaner too far into the ear canal. If you have any concerns about your French Bulldog's ear health or need guidance on how often to change a bandage, it's always best to speak to your veterinarian for advice. Taping French Bulldog ears is generally safe and can be an effective way to encourage ear development and encourage them to stand up. However, improper taping techniques or leaving the tape on for too long can increase the risk of ear infections or other ear-related issues. When taping French Bulldog ears, it's essential to use a soft, non-irritating tape and to wrap the tape gently but securely around the base of the ear. If the tape is too tight or the ears are taped for too long, it can create a warm and moist environment that is conducive to the growth of bacteria and yeast, leading to ear infections or other issues. It's also important to monitor your French Bulldog's ears closely while they are taped, checking for any signs of discomfort or irritation. If your dog seems uncomfortable or if you notice any redness or discharge, it's important to remove the tape immediately and speak to your veterinarian. If your French Bulldog already has an ear infection or is prone to ear-related issues, it may be best to avoid taping their ears or to discuss other options with your veterinarian. Taping French Bulldog ears can cause damage if it's not done correctly or if the tape is left on for too long. Taping too tightly can cut off circulation to the ears, leading to discomfort, pain, and even tissue damage. Similarly, leaving the tape on for too long can cause irritation, rubbing, or even open wounds. It's important to note that taping French Bulldog ears should only be done under the guidance of a veterinarian or experienced breeder to ensure that it is done correctly and safely. The taping should be done with a soft, non-irritating tape and be wrapped gently but securely around the base of the ear. The length of time that taping French Bulldog ears should continue varies from dog to dog and depends on the individual dog's ear development. In general, taping should be done consistently for several weeks, typically between weeks, and should only be done under the guidance of a veterinarian or experienced breeder. If you're concerned about your French Bulldog's ear development or think they may need additional support, it's best to consult with your veterinarian to determine the best course of action for your dog. One benefit of floppy ears is that they can help protect your dog's ear canal. When a dog's ears stand up, the ear canal is more exposed, making it more susceptible to debris and dirt. Floppy ears, on the other hand, provide a natural barrier, helping to keep your dog's ears clean and free from irritants. Additionally, floppy ears can give French Bulldogs a more laid-back, relaxed appearance, which many people find endearing. Floppy ears can also make your dog more approachable to other dogs and people, as they may appear less intimidating with soft, floppy ears. Finally, it's important to remember that a French Bulldog's ear position does not affect their health or happiness. Your French Bulldog can lead a happy and full life no matter how their ears stand. Conclusion French Bulldog ears can be a unique and distinctive feature of this lovable breed, and many owners want to ensure that their dog's ears stand up as they grow. While taping the ears can be helpful in encouraging ear development, it's important to do so under the guidance of a veterinarian or experienced breeder to ensure that it is done correctly and safely. It's also important to note that not all French Bulldogs' ears will stand up fully, and this is completely normal. Whether your French Bulldog's ears stand up or not, they will still be a beloved member of your family, and it's important to prioritize their health and wellbeing above all else. Get more expert advice on pet-parenting by visiting the Off Leash blog at TryFi. TryFi's The Fi Dog Collar is a must-have for any pet parent, it's a GPS tracking collar that helps you keep tabs on your dog's location, activity, and sleep patterns, and alerts you if they escape your backyard. Try the Fi Dog Collar today! The link has been copied! You might also like. Owning a French bulldog is pretty similar to owning a child. When everybody has their own opinions they might make you worry about your Frenchie even if he or she is perfectly healthy. Everywhere you look, you see a Frenchie with erect ears. Their ears make them look unique and just dandy. Then you look at your Frenchie puppy and his or her ears are down. You shouldn't worry about whether or not his or her ears are down, here's why. It important for you to know that all French bulldogs are born with floppy ears, this is absolutely normal. As they grow, their ears gradually become erect, there really is no exact time for this growth to occur. French bulldogs can get their erect ears anytime from 6 weeks to 18 months. There is no hurry. When the Frenchie puppy is still young, their body uses up all of the calcium for growing teeth. During this period, his or her ears may go up, may go up and down, may go droopy, may go up one a time or may not go up at all. Here are some answers to questions you may have. As it has been mentioned, there is no exact time, each puppy is an individual and will develop differently. Some French bulldogs get their erect ears before they are separated from their mother but that is not always the case. Sometimes the ears are erect but droopy at the top. And there is absolutely nothing wrong with that. Their ears being upward or droopy does not in any way affect their personality. As long you clean them regularly and thoroughly, droopy ears have no health-related issues. However, if you really want to give them a little help, there are a few things you can do. But if I happened to own a French bulldog puppy with droopy ears, I would never tape them up so taping a French Bulldog ears is not a recommended method by anyone here at the Frenchiestore. Droopy or floppy ears can give the French bulldog dog a bit of character, a super-cute look and the amusement they bring doubles. It is recommended that you hold on and let nature take its course. The other method would be trying to even or up the calcium levels in your Frenchie. There are a number of ways to figure out whether or not your French Bulldog is a pure breed. They can be easily distinguished from other dogs if you know what to look for. Body Structure French bulldogs are relatively small. Their height is about 10 — 13 inches and they usually weigh under 28 pounds. French bulldogs are known for erect ears with wide bases and rounded tips. A purebred French bulldog will almost certainly have bat ears. This is not to say that they might not be delays in the ears becoming erect. French bulldogs usually have dark brown, almost black eyes. Although in some cases, a French bulldog could have light brown eyes or even green in some of the rare colors Frenchies. French bulldogs also have a short tail that can either be straight or screwed and they hang low below their backs. French bulldogs have a fairly muscular build. With their short, well-rounded bodies, they are usually seen walking actively and unrestrained. Coat The coat of a French bulldog is usually short and smooth. They have soft, loose skin which may form wrinkles around the head and shoulders of the Frenchie. French bulldogs usually have light color bases that come in white, fawn, cream or any combination of these colors. French bulldogs can also have other colors in patterned forms. Some of them include brindle, piebald, black masks, black shading and white markings. The most common of these patterns is the brindle. The brindle pattern could either be sparse or heavily concentrated so that the base color is almost completely hidden. Temperament French bulldogs are incredibly affectionate, they give a lot of love and this makes them great family pets. French bulldogs are alert and attentive, well, they hear you, obeying is another matter. But their energy levels range from low to average. French bulldogs exercise some enviable levels of patience unlike many dog breeds. Even as puppies, they are calmer than most other dogs. French bulldogs are social and usually welcoming towards strangers. They react well to new things and are fairly adaptable. French bulldogs seem to be laid back and easy going. Lookalikes There are a number of dog breeds that have similar appearances to a French bulldog. Sometimes you may even have to do a double take, but if you know what to look for, it is easier to know a French bulldog French Bulldog and English Bulldog: Although the French bulldog and the English bulldog are both bulldogs and naturally have a lot of similarities, there are differences. The English bulldog is bigger and they do not have bat ears. French Bulldog and Boston Terrier: The Boston Terrier bears a striking resemblance to the French bulldog and are commonly confused for one another. But there are a few differences. The Boston Terrier is taller than the French bulldog with about 2 to 4 inches. And though they share similar coat colors and texture, the Boston Terrier can also be seen in seal or black. French bulldogs weigh more. They also have tipped ears instead of a rounder shape than the Frenchie dog. Pugs are smaller than Frenchies, being 10 — 14 inches tall and they have floppy ears rather than erect ears. They have curly tails unlike the short tails of the Frenchie. French Bulldog and Pitbull: American pit bulls have some things in common with a Frenchie but these pit bulls are larger, weighing up to 78 pounds. Both breeds have similar coats though pit bulls can be seen in blue, gray, white, tan, brown, red, yellow or black. However, bull terriers are larger than Frenchies, they weigh as much as 45 pounds — 80 pounds. Bull terriers usually have smooth and dense coats that come in brown white, brindle, black or tricolor. They also have longer muzzle. To find out whether or not your French bulldog is a pure breed, you should consult your vet with any questions or suspicions you may have. To prevent this, always get your Frenchie from reputable breeders. Erect or floppy ears should not determine the amount of love you give to your Frenchie. Be rest assured, nothing is wrong, they deserve all your love and care. Leave a comment. Please assume all such links are affiliate links which may result in my earning commissions and fees. This will not incur additional cost to you. And there are reasons behind it… Keep reading. Do you own a newly born French bulldog? If so, then you might be a bit worried about the floppy ears of your dog and you may have a number of concerns about the floppy ears in your dog. There is no need to be worried about this. This article will help you get answers to all your concerns regarding your French bulldog ear problems. French bulldog Ear Problems There are different Bulldog ear problems that generally appear in Frenchie. You can see their ears starting folding, curling in the backward direction and also falling forward. These are some normal ear problems that usually appear. There is a reason for these problems. This can happen when French bulldogs are teething. During the teething period, you can observe their ears standing upward, and the next day they are downward or floppy. French bulldogs sometimes pay a cost for their charming ears. The most widespread kind of issue is this breed is prone to ear infections. Apart from floppy ears, French Bulldogs can also experience following Bulldog ear problems: Ears may have a yeast smell. Red and swollen ears. Ear scratching. Yellowish fluid discharge from the ear. Ear contaminations in French Bulldogs can also be due to allergies in food, surroundings or not cleaning the ears. If you have a French bulldog and his ears have not stood up, there is no need to be worried about this. Not every French bulldog has stood up ears at an early age. Every Frenchie follows his timetable and with the time ears will stand up properly. In many French Bulldogs, their ears will stand up without any assistance from you, else by 15 weeks at the most recent or months at most lately. The primary concern is; when your French bulldog has completed the process of getting teeth, in most French Bulldogs, their ears will stand up freely in the bat ear pointed shape that the breed is known for. In case your French bulldog has passed the one year age and still has floppy ears then there is not much you can do about it. Well, this is the case in most of the French bulldogs, except some different cases here and there. The majority of the French Bulldogs get raise-up ears irrespective of the age. In the majority of the French bulldogs, they have stood up ears maximum at the age of 2 months. There have been some know the experiences of owners who said their French bulldog ears will not stand up until the age of months. So be patient! A typical dread and worry for the new French bulldog owner think about whether their Frenchie is bound to have floppy ears or just a single ear that is erect. When French Bulldogs are teething, their ears do all kinds of weird things. For instance, one ear may be up, and one may be down, and the next day inverse of the previous day. Both ears may be upward, and on the next day, both of them can be downward. Every French bulldog is on its timetable. We have had a few pups with flawlessly erect ears at about a month old and different little dogs which have taken ten weeks or longer for their ears to stand up impeccably straight. Generally, if the ears will go up on their own without assistance, you will see signs that they are beginning to go up by around seven weeks. In these cases, it is ordinarily best to release them up all alone simply. Ensure the ear is kept level while taping to maintain a distance from a crinkled looking ear base. Arrange ears to the top where they would typically stand erect. Leave the tape on ears for at least five days; at that point make a little cut at the base of the tape and tenderly strip off to remove. You may find some people suggesting to feed them yogurt, cheese, and milk to stand up their ears. It is better to wait for the teething process. Yogurt and cheese will be consumed in the teething process as they carry a huge portion of calcium, and teeth are all about calcium. After finished teething, the ears will stand up on their own. Final Words So I hope this article will help you understand about Bulldog ear problems, and how you can ease them. Maybe some other is in more bad condition than yours. Disclaimer : FrenchieBuddy. Why do they go back down again? As we were taught in school, calcium is very important for your teeth and bones, and the same is true for dogs. Some French Bulldogs will have their ears stand up, then go down again and never go back up, this is also normal. There is absolutely nothing wrong with floppy ears on your Frenchie, but if you want to help their ears stand up, here are a few simple ways that can help with that. Consider talking to them to see if the parents had floppy ears as well. Have your dog checked and see if there are any developmental issues that may be the cause behind the floppy ears. The vet may be able to find something and recommend treatments, changes in their diet, or Calcium supplements. Your vet may even recommend calcium injections if your dog is older than 8 months of age to help them stand up. This brings us to our next point, which is a crucial one. YouTubers and bloggers, even myself who has this article checked and edited by a vet, should never replace your vet and should not be the source for medical advice. Consult with your vet before giving them supplements. Thankfully, there are other ways to give your dog more calcium without giving them supplements. Give Them Calcium-rich foods You can make sure they get more calcium by adding calcium-rich foods to their diet. The most helpful foods according to vets and my own experience are yogurt and cottage cheese. Even one spoon of yogurt with their dinner can help them. Make sure to keep an eye on your dog after giving them yogurt because some dogs will have varying degrees of lactose intolerance and will have trouble digesting yogurt. Some signs of lactose intolerance in dogs include excessive ear scratching, licking paws, itchiness, diarrhea, and vomiting. If you notice any of these signs after giving them yogurt, your dog may be lactose intolerant, and of course, you should take them to the vet. Oh, yeah, hip and joint supplements are actually fine to give yourself as long as they are in a proper dose. They rarely have any side effects, and they help with more than their ears. My own vet recommended these two for my dogs, and I think you can try them out as well:. Frenchies win our hearts with their wrinkled little faces and large, bat-like ears. To a French Bulldog, down-turned ears are perfectly natural. Frenchies are born with floppy ears. As the puppies teeth, their little ears begin to perk up. However, there is no precise timetable for this. Sometimes ears will spring up in a matter of days. But it usually takes closer to ten weeks. On occasion, one ear will pop up before the other, creating an adorably lopsided appearance. And sometimes they stick out on either side like bicycle handles. None of this is cause for concern. Each puppy develops differently, even if they come from the same litter. How do I fix it? First, make sure you give your French Bulldog time to grow at his or her own pace. Get some masking tape that is about 1. Gently wrap one strip of tape around each individual ear and ensure that the ear is flat when you do this. Use a longer strip of tape to connect the ears and hold them erect. Leave the tape on like this for four or five days and countless hilarious photos. You may have to repeat this process several times over the course of a few months to see results. Some websites suggest feeding your Frenchie calcium supplements to assist their ears in rising during the teething process. But this method is unproven, particularly because ears are made of cartilage, not bone. Your pup has a unique body that will grow and change in time. That way, whenever they reach full perkiness, those trademark bat ears will be healthy and ready to listen to your commands. Or at least, to hear them. They will be soft and floppy when born. In fact, many breeders will say you should even be worried about floppy ear development until the 8-month mark 32 weeks , as puppies all develop at different rates. But what is the reason for all of this, and what can you do about a Frenchie with floppy ears? Frenchies have very big ears when they are puppies. They look completely out of proportion as you can see in this photo of our dog Claude when he was younger compared to being an adult — he was 7 months old in this shot on the left, and 3 years on the right, and had no issue with his ear development. Our Frenchie never had floppy ears. As you can imagine, with ears this big and heavy, it takes a lot of strong ear cartilage to make them stand up and not flop down. So why do some French Bulldogs have floppy ears, and other not? This is the barometer that Frenchie experts use with regards to floppy ears. As the puppy progresses through the teething stage, the cartilage grows strong enough to keep the ears standing up versus their current floppy appearance. Handy Hint: To find out more about teething and how long it takes, read the guide to Frenchie teething that I previously published. They can even go up and down The floppy ears can go up and come back down again during the teething period. Just wait until your Frenchie has stopped teething — and this can be as old as 7 to 8 months — before you make any judgements. Their ears could be floppy, erect, and floppy again at during this time. The first thing I would do is ask the breeder if floppy ears is a hereditary thing. When should you be worried? If you fall into that category, when it the time to panic and take action? Not necessarily, but it might be wise to start the fix before this date… and here are some ways you can do so — most people will start the fixes at around 5 to 6 months. The ideas below are all ones that I have been found via social media and blog posts. All of the methods below should be used before you consider taping. You can start doing this from the age your puppy comes home to live with you from 8 weeks and on: 1. Consult with you vet first Assuming you have spoken to the breeder and ruled out any hereditary ear floppiness, you should talk with your vet first… before you even taking the online advice from a blog, even like mine! Get the vet to do a health check-up to see if there are any development issues. These can include bone spurts, arthritis and joint problems in a growing Frenchie puppy. Instead, give your puppy small amounts of foods such as cottage cheese or yogurt. These are said to encourage calcium growth in their ears. I have heard that this could be a myth though, so ask your vet. Add a cartilage encouraging supplement to their diet Some owners swear by a supplement called glucosamine. You can buy these tablets on Amazon , which are the number 1 supplement according to vets. Give them chew toys Chewing not only helps your Frenchie with teething but the physical act can also strengthen muscle essential for ear development. Dogs have a temporalis muscle at the top of their jaw and under their ear. Strong temporalis muscle helps ear to stand up… therefore, lots of chewing means a reduction in floppy ears. Handy Hint: Find out what chew toys I recommend for Frenchies with this selection of the best chewing toys on the market. I personally think Frenchies with floppy ears look cute, but, each to their own… people who have done this successfully have done so around the 5 to 6-month age. Other reasons for floppy ears Whilst most French Bulldog ears will become erect after the teething phases, there will be some cases where floppy ears, either as a pair or just one, will remain floppy after this point and will never fix. Your vet will be able to diagnose and explain more, but here are the reasons other than teething I found for floppy Frenchie ears: Genetics and breeding: There is a small market for Frenchies with floppy ears. Also known as French Bulldogs with rose ears, breeders will try to engineer puppies with ears that never stand up. This is what it means if you see Frenchies with rose ears for sale. Injury: Frenchie puppies are extremely energetic and can get themselves into various scrapes, some of which could be traumatic to the ears. An ear could get cut, squeezed, or suffer some form of trauma — this can often result in a French Bulldog with one floppy ear only. Frenchie puppies are born deaf with sealed shut ears. After 3 weeks, their ears will start to open. Frenchie ears will stand up between the ages of 5 to 15 weeks. Frenchies will stop teething at around 7 to 8 months. During this period ears can be floppy, up, down, and in varying orders! Frenchie ears should, in most cases, all stand up after 8 months at the latest. After a couple of weeks went back up and never done again. They are a living creature, not a show piece. Leave their ears alone and if one is a bit floppy, just embrace the difference as it will be part of their character! They were up and down as a puppy but eventually never went up again. We think he looks amazing though and love him to bits. She had her dog DNA tested and he had a slight bit of pug in him! They go back up with time. Like ourselves, dogs are not designed to be perfect, how saddening this topic is. Close share Copy link The French Bulldog is a lively, fun-loving, and intelligent breed, unlike the rest. In a way, you can refer to this cute little pet as a distant cousin of the English Bulldog. But the intriguing thing about the French Bulldogs ears is that they all don't look the same; while some may appear floppy, others may be pointing up. Curiously, this distinction or variation in the appearance of French Bulldog ears provides a source of concern for some Frenchie owners, especially those with floppy ears. Frenchie Shop interacted with some French Bulldog owners and gathered some of their points of concern and questions, most common among them, in order to provide some answers that may be soothing. Almost all French Bulldogs have floppy ears at birth. So, if you noticed that your French Bulldog puppy's ears are floppy you need not worry you wanted your cutie's ears to be pointing up like a bat's because it is not peculiar to you, that's how Frenchie's are born. There's no straight-jacket answer to this question. It may take a couple of weeks, and sometimes, you may start seeing the signs of it springing up within days. It would depend on the level and speed of development of each Frenchie. But ideally, your Frenchie's Ear should start standing at 7 weeks old. There's nothing wrong. When eventually your French Bulldog's ears start standing up, it is not all the time and all Frenchies that both ears rise up at the same time and at the same pace. You might notice that one ear is up and one is down. It could also happen that the following day, the one ear that was down the previous day could be standing up and the one standing up the previous day could go floppy. Sometimes both ears may start going up and in a day or two, both ears or one of them might go down. Also, one ear may be up weeks before the other even starts to show any sign of rising up. The French Bulldog ears do all sorts of wonky things. As a matter of fact, you should see the tricky rise and fall as an entertaining and interesting process. It is actually entertaining and interesting, and not worrisome. There's no cause for alarm. One thing you must know is that each puppy is on his or her own time table, even puppies from the same litter. Some puppy's ear may be perfectly erect at their 4th week while some may take up to 10 weeks. Like I said earlier, at the 7th week, your puppy's ears should already have started showing signs of rising up. If you noticed this, it is better to let the ears stand on their own. But, if at that time you haven't noticed any such sign, there are ways you can help your Puppy's ears to stand up. Use the following techniques: 1. Tape each ear individually with 1. Make sure the ear is kept flat while taping to avoid a wrinkled-looking ear base. Orient ears to the top where they would normally stand erect. Once in the erect position of 11 and 1 O'Clock, tape a connecting bridge from one ear to the other. Leave tape in place for between four to five days, then make a small cut at the base of the tape and gently peel off to remove the tape. We hope these few answers to some Frequently Asked Questions about French Bulldog ears are helpful to you and will help you achieve the perfect ear shape that you want for your French Bulldog. You are most welcome to share with us your experience while your Frenchie's ears were beginning to stand, or what challenges you are facing at the moment with them. Bred to be companion dogs, French bulldogs were also used to hunt rats in Europe before becoming extremely popular there as pets. One of the most noticeable traits of the French bullie has to be their ears. If you own a French bulldog or just adopted a French bullie pup, you probably have a few questions and maybe even concerns about their ears. Occasionally, however, this might not happen until they reach seven or eight months of age. More specifically, it has to do with the calcium that their tiny little bodies are using to make their new teeth. Until they are finished teething, their ears might remain floppy, might perk up and then go back down, and might perk up and stay up, and all due to their body using their calcium supply. Is it One Ear or Both? Usually, this will work itself out over time and both ears will perk up. The truth is, for the first few months of their little doggy lives, French bulldogs are going through a lot of changes and their ears are sort of like a barometer of those changes. One might perk up, then flop back down again while the other perks up and vice versa. In nearly all cases this is simply a natural response to the changes happening in their body. As we mentioned, most French bulldog puppies are born with ears that lay down on the side of their face. By the time they reach adulthood, most Frenchies have two perky ears that stand at attention. The answer to this question would be no. They will still be loveable, kind, and loyal companions. Interestingly, when a French bulldog has ears that stand up at attention, they are more susceptible to infections and other ear problems. Most of the ear problems that you will encounter with your French bulldog are caused by infections due to things like pollen, dirt, and debris, as we mentioned above. Typically, the best way to try and help their ears to stand up is to tape them. There are no real costs to try this except for the cost of some masking tape. Below are step-by-step instructions for taping their ears to try and get them to stand up straight. Be sure to keep each ear oriented in the position that they would normally be if they stood straight up. After the fifth day, carefully remove the masking tape. You also might be one of the lucky French bulldog owners who have a Frenchie with one ear that stands up straight and one ear that flops. This is also completely normal and, in our opinion, makes them even more adorable. One thing to note, however, is that there is no scientific evidence showing that giving your Frenchy cheese or other dairy products will help their ears to stand up or not. It makes sense if you think about it because dairy products contain high amounts of calcium. But, again, no studies have been done showing conclusively if giving them dairy products like cheese works or not. As we mentioned, French bulldogs sometimes have problems with their ears because they stand up straight. To reduce the number of infections and other problems their ears might have, you should clean them once a week. A gentle ear cleaning product or witch hazel can be used along with some unscented baby wipes or doggy cleaning wipes. You can use a cotton ball soaked in the cleaning product you choose, or a wipe. Then, lightly clean the top, front, and side of their ears, avoiding the ear canal. Closing Thoughts cNine out of 10 French bulldogs will have the perky, stand-at-attention ears that many people love. One out of 10 might have one stand up ear and one floppy ear, or they might have two floppy ears. Both of these scenarios are perfectly normal and, in our humble opinion, makes them even more special. Here are some of my favorite Dog and Bulldog Products Thank you for reading this article. I hope you found it helpful for your dog and bulldog questions. These are affiliate links, and I am compensated for referring traffic. But in all honesty, these are the exact product that I use or recommend to everyone. Food For Bulldogs: Royal Canin Bulldog was the dog food our breeder recommended for our bulldog with a bit of canned pumpkin added for each meal to give a bit of extra fiber Poo Bags: For poo bags we use Greener Walker poop bags. We have used them for over a year without having a single leak. Also, these bags are made to be friendlier for the environment. They are good for sensitive skin which bulldogs are known to have. I love this dog bed because it has an outer liner which can be replaced if it gets too beat up. To see all our most up-to-date product recommendations , check out this resource that I made for you! A common fear and concern for new Frenchie owners is wondering if their Frenchie is destined to have floppy ears or only one ear that is erect. Their ears do all kinds of wonky things in the teething stage. For example, one ear might be up and one might be down, then the next day opposite ears will stand and lay down. One or two ears might start going up, and then the next day they both might be down. One ear may be up weeks before the other ear stands up. Also, when they do start standing up they are often not completely erect they look more like airplane wings. Each puppy is on his or her own time table, even puppies from the same litter. We have had several puppies with perfectly erect ears at 4 weeks old and other puppies which have taken 10 weeks or longer for their ears to stand up perfectly straight. Usually, if the ears are going to go up on their own without help, you will see signs that they are starting to go up by about 7 weeks. In these cases, it is normally best to just let them go up on their own. In these cases, it is necessary to train the ears for 3 to 5 days by taping them as explained below. Occasionally, with particularly stubborn ears, it will be necessary to tape them up a couple of times, or possibly even more. As mentioned, the majority of the time they are up on their own between 4 — 10 weeks, but if they are showing no signs of going up on their own at 8 weeks, it is time to consider giving them a little help. The best way we have found to tape the ears is to start by taping each ear individually with 1. Start by tearing off a small piece of tape just long enough to loosely wrap around the ear one time front and back towards the base of the ear. Make sure that the ear is kept flat when wrapped or when you take the tape off you will see the folds where the ear was bent and crinkled. Do the exact same thing on the other ear. The pictures below show only one wrap of tape on the lower ear, but we have found from experience that it is better to put at least two wraps of tape on each ear so that they are taped from the extreme base to the extreme tip to provide the best support. Then tape a bridge from one ear to the other. Do so by tearing off a piece of tape that is just long enough to reach from the outer side of one ear to the outer side of the other. Do this on the front and back sides to provide more support and so that the sticky sides of the tape are stuck together. Hopefully the pictures will help give you a better idea. Leave the tape in place for several days generally no more than 5 and then gently remove it we usually use scissors to cut the tape on the underside of the ear and then gently peal it off. If the ears were close to being ready to stand up on their own they should stay up indefinitely. Occasionally, they will need to be re-taped a day or two later, and very rarely a third time. But, with patience and perseverance, you will be rewarded with beautiful, erect Frenchie ears.

Here's what to expect in the time leading up to bringing your new puppy home: As soon as the parents breed we will update you with a due date. We hold all appointments on the same day as the people waiting behind you will be eager to pick. The parents will be onsite and available for you to meet. On pick up day, appointments are also booked back to back so it's important to be on time. We will go over feeding, vaccinations, vet records, microchip information and any other questions you may have. Parents will again be onsite for you to get to know and interact with. Please remember once you have a Herzog German Shepherd I make a commitment to you for the life of your dog. In the event you are having issues please contact me directly so we can work through them together. Our relationship is going to work best if we remember to treat each other with mutual respect and keep in mind that we all want to see a successful family life for the pup and everyone in your household. Becoming argumentative or upset will make it difficult for us to work together to find a good solution. The available spot is for 4th pick of a male. I would provide you with details on the upcoming litters and which spots are available in those litters so you can make the most informed decision possible. Here are some scenarios in which the litter of your choice may not work for your home and what available options you have: Your circumstances change: Loss of job, have to move, injury, timing no longer works, etc. There is no rush on our end as we feel choosing the right pup is a big decision. One thing to keep in mind is if you decide to stay off the list entirely and want to jump on a list with short notice there may not be available spots so try to give me as much notice as possible. You find a breeder that has a litter available sooner, a lower price, etc. You decide you want to go with a different breed or species. The deposit is forfeited as deposits are used in the care of our dogs and are unavailable for return for any reason. Herzog German SHepherds. Degenerative Myelopathy Von Willebrand Disease Perhaps the most well-known is hip dysplasia, a condition that causes the hip joint to develop abnormally. This can lead to pain and lameness, and eventually requiring surgery. German Shepherds are also at risk for elbow dysplasia, a similar condition that affects the elbow joint. Other common health problems include allergies, intestinal issues, and eye problems. With proper care and diet, however, German Shepherds can live long and healthy lives. Finding a German Shepherd puppy for sale from a reputable breeder can dramatically — although, not eliminate — the risk of your dog developing some of these conditions. While German Shepherds are often considered to be low-maintenance when it comes to grooming, their coats do require some care and attention. The most important thing to know about German Shepherd coat care is that the breed does not shed uniformly throughout the year. After the shedding period has ended, you can reduce the frequency of brushing to once or twice a week. In addition to regular brushing, German Shepherds also need to be bathed on occasion. How often you need to bathe your German Shepherd will depend on factors such as how often they play outside and whether they have any allergies or skin sensitivities. Generally speaking, however, a once-monthly bath is sufficient for most dogs. German Shepherd Puppies For Sale. Life Span Did You Know? The German Shepherd is one of the most versatile, well-recognized, and popular dog breeds in the world. The modern German Shepherd is descended from a family of various German herding dogs. Breed standards were not developed until the late 19th century when Captain Max von Stephanitz, a German cavalry officer, worked with Arthur Meyer and other breeders to develop the ideal German herding dog. Stephanitz and Meyer wrote the breed standard in and the American Kennel Club recognized the German Shepherd as a member of the Herding Group in .Although they were originally bred as herding dogs, they were also bred for versatility, which made the German Shepherd an all-around working dog that could excel in a variety of applications. German Shepherds are one of the common dog breeds employed in K-9 units in both police and military applications. They also make great service dogs and, of course, are still awesome herding dogs and farm dogs! The German Shepherd is a strong-willed and highly intelligent dog. They have a playful, energetic spirit and tend to get along with children, other dogs, and other pets, which makes them a great family companion. A born protector, the German Shepherd will provide a great sense of security for their family while their loving and lively personality will make them fit right in as a companion. German Shepherds are naturally protective and can be wary of strangers at first. A well-socialized German Shepherd will bark to alert you and tends to warm up to strangers once introduced. German Shepherds are dogs that were bred to herd and work. This, plus their high energy, makes them a better fit for homes with fenced yards where they can run. They can adapt well to larger apartments as long as plenty of time is dedicated to ensuring they get enough exercise, mental stimulation, and attention every day. A bored, ignored, or under-exercised German Shepherd can often become a destructive one. They also can be sensitive to their surroundings and large gatherings can be off-putting. With a longer coat, they tend to prefer cooler climates and are sensitive to heat. The German Shepherd is a generally healthy breed, but there are some potential health concerns and good breeding practices make a big difference. Potential health concerns to be aware of in a German Shepherd include hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia , and degenerative myelopathy. Reputable breeders will screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues to puppies. So, make sure you are asking about the health and genetic history of both parents. You can also ask about any health tests or clearances that have been done. As a barrel-chested breed, the German Shepherd is also at risk for bloat. While the German Shepherd is highly intelligent and highly trainable, they are generally not recommended for novice owners. If you are a novice dog owner, enroll in puppy training classes or enlist the help of a professional dog trainer; not just for your dog, but for yourself as well. Training assistance will help you grow in experience and build a strong bond between you and your German Shepherd puppy, which is essential. Also, the GSD has a thirst for training and fulfillment. They get bored easily and especially with repetition, so continued training with your German Shepherd throughout their life will be necessary. German Shepherds have a medium-to-long double coat. They will shed year-round and heavier as seasons change. Brushing a few times a week is usually sufficient; brushing daily is even better and your GSD will likely love you for it. Bathing is occasional on an as-needed basis. Ear checks weekly with careful cleanings as needed can help prevent ear infections. German Shepherds are high-energy working dogs. Not only do they require a lot of daily activity, but they also are a herding breed that was made to run, guard, and observe, so they need a job to do to be happy and healthy. Daily walks plus playtime, time to run, and other activities are usually enough for a GSD, but they will likely be up for more activity if you are. With their versatility and athleticism, you can try a lot of different activities when puppies finish growing and they are cleared for higher-impact things. A fully-grown German Shepherd usually stands inches tall and weighs pounds. German Shepherds generally live for years on average. Corporal Duncan brought him back to the United States and Rin-Tin-Tin became one of the most famous dog actors in history. Featured German Shepherd Article.

French Bulldog Companion Dog Group The goals and purposes of this breed standard include: to furnish guidelines for breeders who wish to maintain the quality of their breed and to improve it; to advance this breed to a state of similarity throughout the world; and to act as a guide for judges. Breeders and judges have the responsibility to avoid any conditions or exaggerations that are detrimental to the health, welfare, essence and soundness of this breed, and must take the responsibility to see that these are not perpetuated. Any departure from the following should be considered a fault, and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog and on the dogs ability to perform its traditional work. Absolute soundness and proper muscle tone is a must. History It is generally accepted that the French Bulldog was developed in France, using the Miniature or Toy Bulldogs brought over from England by English lace workers. What specific breeds were crossed with the English dogs is not known, but they did introduce the "bat ear," which is not a characteristic of the English Bulldogs. During that period, the Bulldog primarily belonged to Parisian market porters, butchers and coachmen. It soon won over high society and the artistic world with it unique appearance and character, and rapidly became popular. The first breed club was formed in Paris in .The first registration dates from , and the first standard was established in , the year the French Kennel Club recognized the breed. General Appearance The French Bulldog's appearance is that of an active, intelligent, muscular dog, powerful for its small size. It is short and compact, stocky, with good bone, a smooth, short coat, distinctive bat ears, and a naturally short tail. Disqualifications: Unilateral or bilateral cryptorchid. Significant lack of breed type. Important Proportions The length of the body, between the point of the shoulder and the point of the buttocks, slightly exceeds the height, measured at the withers. Characteristics The French Bulldog is an affectionate and sociable companion. It is lively and playful, but not boisterous. Disqualifications: Viciousness or extreme shyness. Head The head is characterized by a shortening of the muzzle, as well as a slight to moderate backwards slope of the nose. The head is strong, broad and square, with skin that forms nearly symmetrical folds and wrinkles without excess. The forehead is slightly rounded. The stop is well defined, and there is a furrow between the eyes that does not extend onto the skull. No prominence of occiput. Although the muzzle is proportionately short in comparison to the size of the dog, it is distinct and allows for comfortable breathing. It is broad, deep and well laid back, with symmetrical folds of skin coming down on to the lips. Cheek muscles are well developed. The thick, broad flews hang over the lower jaw at the sides and meet the underlip in front, completely covering the teeth. The flews are black. The deep, square, broad underjaw is undershot and well turned up. The tongue must never show when the dogs mouth is closed. The jaws are broad and powerful. The lower jaw projects in front of the upper jaw, and turns up. The arch of the lower incisors is rounded. The gap between the upper and lower incisors should not be so large that the upper and lower lips do not meet. Serious Faults: Muzzle too long or, excessively short. Tongue visible when the mouth is closed. Muzzle so short as to affect breathing. Disqualification: Torsion or lateral deviation of the jaw, resulting in the tongue being visible at all times. A full complement of strong, white teeth meet in an undershot bite. Serious Faults: Teeth showing when the mouth is closed. Pincer bite. Disqualifications: Torsion or lateral deviation of the jaw, resulting in the tongue constantly being visible. Scissors bite. EYES The eyes are clearly visible, striking, rather large, round, dark, and have a lively expression. They are set wide apart and low in the skull well away from the ears. Neither the white of the eyes nor the haw shows when the dog is looking forward. The eye rims must be black. Serious Fault: Light eyes. Disqualifications: Eyes that are two different colors. Wall eye. NOSE The nose is turned up slightly snub nose , and has broad, symmetrical, well-opened nostrils, with a well-defined line between them. The upturned nose must allow normal breathing. The nose is always black, in all coat colors, never brown or blue. Disqualification: Nose color other than black. Completely closed nostrils. Respiratory distress. EARS The breed typical bat ears are broad at the base, with a round top. The elongated ears are set high on the head, but not too close together, and are carried erect, with the orifice to the front. The ear leather is fine and soft. Disqualifications: Cropped ears, or ears that are not carried erect. NECK The short, powerful, slightly arched neck is free of dewlap, and broadens towards the shoulder. Forequarters The shoulder blades and upper arms are short and thick, covered with visible musculature. The shoulder must be well laid back. The upper arm is short, thick, muscular, and slightly curved. The elbows are close and tight to the body. The forearm is short, straight, and muscular. The wrist is solid and strong. The pasterns are short, strong, and slightly sloping. The forefeet are round, compact, small cat feet , and may turn out slightly. The toes are tight. The nails are short, thick, and black. Fault: Light-colored nails. Body The compact body is deep and broad through the chest, with a broad back. The chest is well let down slightly lower than the elbows. The ribs are well-sprung resulting in a barrel-shaped ribcage. Viewed from the front, the forechest is broad, and square-shaped. The loin is short, broad, firm, and arched. The line of the back rises progressively, but not excessively, from the withers toward the loin. Also called a roach back, it is breed typical. There is moderate tuck up. The back is broad and muscular, firm without slackness. The croup is well sloping. Serious Fault: Straight backline, from withers to loin. The legs are straight viewed from the side and from the rear. The thighs are firm and well-muscled. The strong hocks are well let down and there is moderate angulation at the hock joint. The rear pastern is short. The hind feet are round and compact, turning neither inward or outward. Disqualification: Weak, insufficiently angulated hocks. TAIL Naturally short, ideally long enough to cover the anus, set low, rather straight, thick at the base, and tapering at the tip. A kinked, knotted, broken, or relatively long tail that does not reach beyond the point of the hocks is admissible. It is carried low. Even in action, the tail must not rise above the horizontal. Disqualification: Docked tail. No tail. Ingrown tail. Coat Short, smooth, close, glossy and soft. The skin is firm. There is no undercoat. Disqualifications: Long, wire-haired, or woolly coat. Color Acceptable colors include: fawn; brindle; fawn and white; brindle and white; and any other color that does not constitute a disqualification. From light fawn to dark fawn, sometimes presenting a paler coloring, with or without a black mask, although masked subjects are preferred. Sometimes accompanied by limited white. Brindle: Fawn coat moderately characterized by dark brindling, creating a tiger-marked effect. Strongly brindled coats must not cover the fawn ground color. A black mask may be present. Limited white is acceptable. Fault: In fawns, a deep, black line extending along the spine. White stockings in brindles and fawns. White dogs, with black nose and eyelids, are permissible. Some fawn spots on the skin are acceptable. Brindle with moderate or significant white Pied : The white is ideally distributed over the entire body. Some brindle spots on the skin are acceptable. Fault: Excessive ticking. Serious Faults: Excessive depigmentation of the lips, nose, eyelids, all of which must have some pigmentation. Disqualification: Albinism. Any colors not noted in the standard, to include, but not limited to, black, black with fawn markings black and tan , all dilutions of black, mouse, liver, all with or without white. Males: 10 to 14 inches. Females: 9 to 12 inches. A deviation of a half inch is acceptable. Females: 18 pounds to 29 pounds. A deviation of 1 pound above is acceptable when the dog is in good condition. Eliminating Faults: Height under 8 inches, or above 15 inches. Weight over 33 pounds. Gait The correct gait is free, powerful, and smooth, with the legs moving parallel to the median plane of the body double tracking. Eliminating Faults An Eliminating Fault is a Fault serious enough that it eliminates the dog from obtaining any awards in a conformation event. Height under 8 inches, or above 15 inches. Weight over 31 pounds. Disqualifications A dog with a Disqualification must not be considered for placement in a conformation event, and must be reported to UKC. Unilateral or bilateral cryptorchid. Viciousness or extreme shyness. Nose color other than black. Eyes that are two different colors. Cropped ears. Females: pounds. Height Males: inches. Females: inches. However, the French Bulldog breed's distinguished breed heritage and intriguing history as a European companion dog place him on a level far above that of any swine. Modern French Bulldogs are descendants of large, ancient dogs that were kept by a Greek tribe known as the Molossians. The breed, known as the Molossus, is believed to have spread to other countries on the ships of seafaring peoples. Over time, the Molossus found its way to Britain, where British breeders created a new dog from his lineage: the Mastiff. Although the Mastiff's enormous physique has little in common with the petite French Bulldog, the breeds share a genetic link. Bullenbeissers were a subdivision of the mastiff lineage bred specifically for bullbaiting. Bullbaiting was a popular English blood sport during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries in which bulls were tied to a pole with 30 feet of leash. A bullbaiting dog was bred to crawl on his stomach toward the bull, avoid being gored by the horns, and bite the enraged bull on the snout. Many bullbaiting dogs were maimed or killed fighting bulls, and the British Parliament banned the practice in by passing the Cruelty to Animals Act. When the British Parliament outlawed bullbaiting, breeders focused on more humane roles for the dogs to fulfill in society. Many owners appreciated the tenacity and strength of bullbaiting dogs and attempted to make smaller versions that would carry those traits into companionship roles. The bullbaiting dogs were mixed with smaller breeds, such as terriers and pugs, hoping to create a more compact version of the beloved Bulldog. Toy Bulldogs emerged in England during the first half of the nineteenth century. Far lighter than the original Bulldog, some weighed as little as 12 pounds. Toy-sized Bulldogs fit better with city life than their larger counterparts. Since toy Bulldogs were smaller and lighter, they were easier to carry, and many male and female workers of the British Industrial Revolution chose toy Bulldogs as their pets. Workers who left Britain to find jobs as lace workers in France popularized the breed in their host country. The breed's now iconic, bat-like ears became a desired trait that distinguished the French Bulldog from the toy Bulldog. French socialites, especially women, grew particularly fond of the peculiar-looking dog, and many chose the French Bulldog specifically for his exceeding patience during gossip sessions. The French Bulldog became an accessory to fashionable women since the dog's appearance with his art nouveau ears drew the attention of onlookers and passersby during walks. Miniature Bulldogs became so popular in France that, by the year , French demand had nearly outstripped the supply of pups being exported by British breeders. News of the French Bulldog spread further west in the latter half of the nineteenth century. As in France, America's most elite families fawned over the breed, including the Rockefellers and the Morgans. In the twenty-first century, the French Bulldog was recognized as one of the top twenty most popular breeds in the United States. Breed Characteristics Head: Somewhat brachycephalic skull-type, moderate in size, shaped rather square, and in proportion to the rest of the body. From the front, the topskull is flat, or nearly flat, between the ears. In profile, the topskull appears long and slightly rounded and should not appear short or flat. It should be free from excess skin and wrinkles. The muscles, including those of the cheeks and the temporal muscles, are well-developed. The superciliary arches and a furrow at the stop are prominent. The occiput is not prominent. The head is clean-cut without excess skin or wrinkles. Eyes: The eyes are moderate in size, open-oval to round in shape, set rather far apart from one another and from the ears, and as dark in color as possible or self-colored according to the coat in lighter dogs. The eyes are never bulging. There should be sufficient bone in the surrounding orbital sockets to protect the eyes. Eye rims are darkly pigmented and tight-fitting. There should be no looseness, and the whites of the eyes should not be visible when looking forward. The ears are never long, overly large, or broken. Muzzle: The muzzle is broad, deep, full, well-developed, and may be somewhat laid back. It should never be so short as to appear flat in profile. Upper and lower jaws are wide, have good bone substance, and are strong and well-developed, never appearing snipy or weak. The lower jaw and chin are just slightly upturned, well-developed, and visible from the front or in profile; however, they should never protrude beyond the break of the lips when the mouth is shut. A very slight roll of skin is permissible on the top of the muzzle; however, a roll-free muzzle is preferred for hygienic reasons. Nose: The nose is well-pigmented, black, or self-colored, according to the coat in non-standard color varieties. The nostrils are well-opened. Neck: Moderate length allows for a proud head carriage, strongly muscled, with a slight arch. The neck tapers smoothly from the deeper and broader body toward the head. The neck is clean-cut, without excess skin, throatiness, or dewlap. Chest: Deep and broad but never wider than deep. The brisket extends to the point of the elbows or just below. Body: Compact, solid, somewhat cobby, and of good substance. The body is never racy or refined. The width at the forequarters is approximately equal to the width at the hindquarters. Feet: Oval to round, compact, with well-arched toes and tough pads. Toes may be oriented slightly outward. Tail: Set somewhat low on the croup, thick at the base, and tapering toward the tip. The tail should be left natural and never docked short. Natural tails are of a short to medium length, with the tip of the last vertebrae extending to the hock joints, or less, when held down. The tail may be straight or gently curved. Inverted tails, corkscrew tails, and kinked tails are extremely undesirable and potentially unhealthy. Movement: The movement is powerful, free, energetic, and efficient. The characteristics of a healthy structure are evident. When moving away, the forelegs and rear pasterns should remain parallel to one another. When viewing movement from the front, the forelegs should remain parallel, with elbows and paws moving neither in nor out. From the rear, the back pads should be visible when the rear legs are extended. As speed increases, the forelimbs and hindlimbs will converge to the center line of gravity. From the side, the topline should remain firm and level. Good reach of movement in the front allows the forepaw to extend out in line with the nose. When extended, the width between the forefeet should be approximately equal to the width between the hindfeet when extended, indicating balance, good reach, and good drive. Dogs that exhibit any sign of breathing or locomotive difficulty shall be disqualified from the show ring. Temperament: The French Bulldog breed is well-known for their calm and well-mannered temperament. They are intelligent, capable of learning many different types of tricks and disciplines, and take any task they are given very seriously. They are devoted, playful, and alert. They are lively, gregarious, and get along well with people, other dogs, and other animals that they have been socialized to, making them an ideal family companion. Any unprovoked aggressive or fearful behavior toward people is incorrect for this breed. The ideal body height-to-length ratio is between and .The build is compact, solid, and sturdy without appearing cloddy. Males should appear masculine, being more substantial in size and mass, while females should appear more feminine and slightly less substantial. Neither should lack overall type. The weight of males or females is always in proportion to height. Lightweight: Up to 22 pounds Heavyweight: pounds Head General Appearance: Somewhat brachycephalic skull-type, moderate in size, shaped rather square, and in proportion to the rest of the body. Expression: Intelligent, inquisitive, friendly, and jaunty, although capable of appearing to be quite professional. Stop: The stop is definite, preferably forming at least a degree angle between the topskull and muzzle. Skull: The ideal muzzle-to-skull ratio is between to , with the topskull being longer than the muzzle. The ideal muzzle-to-skull axis is convergent. Lips or Flews: Lips are broad and thick but clean and fit tightly over the teeth and jaws. Cheeks: The cheeks are well-padded, broad, and well-developed, adding to the square appearance of the face. They should never appear chiseled or flat. Dentition and Bite: Forty-two strong, clean, and white teeth. The bite may be level, reverse-scissor, or undershot. The tongue and teeth should remain concealed when the mouth is closed. Body and Tail General Description: Compact, solid, somewhat cobby, and of good substance. Topline: Straight and level from withers to croup. A gentle arch at the loin area is tolerated. The back is broad, strongly muscled, and straight, yet supple. The loin is taut and may be flat, level, or slightly arched yet supportive. The back is never swayed or roached, and the croup should never rise higher than the withers. Croup: Gently sloped. Underline: A slight tuck-up is present or the underline may run parallel to the topline. The underline is taut and firm, without any indication of sagging or excess weight. Ribs: Long, well-sprung, well-laid-back, oval-shaped, never barrel-chested or slab-sided. Forequarters and Hindquarters Forequarters: The forequarters are always balanced with the hindquarters and well-angulated with well-laid-back shoulder blades. Shoulder blades are approximately equal in length to the upper arm and forearm. Elbows: The elbows are close to the body. The distance from the withers to the brisket may be equal to or greater than the distance from the elbows to the ground. Forelegs: Frontal View: Straight, of good muscle, solid bone, and parallel to one another. Side View: The forelimbs appear straight with strong pasterns. Pasterns: Never weak or broken. Hindquarters: The upper and lower thighs are equal in length, strong, sturdy, of solid bone, and well-muscled. Rear View: When viewed from the rear, the rear pasterns are parallel to one another. Side View: Good angulation will allow the rear toes to align with the point of the rump or within one to two paw-lengths behind the point of the rump, with the rear pasterns remaining perpendicular to the ground and parallel to one another. Stifle Joint: Well-angulated with a good bend to well-let-down rear pasterns. Angulations: The angulation of the hindquarters is always in balance with the angulation of the forequarters. Coat Skin: Well-fitted, yet supple. The skin should never obstruct the outline of the dog. Coat Type: The coat is short, smooth, soft, glossy, and close to the body throughout. No fringe or feather is permissible. Standard coat color variety: Cream, tan, fawn tan with black mask , brindle, all with or without white markings, solid white. Non-standard coat color variety: Any colors that occur in the French Bulldog that are not accepted as standard colors, which include: Black, mouse, gray, blue, liver, Isabella, all with or without tan or brindle points, all as fawn mask , all as brindle, all with or without brindle white. Movement The movement is powerful, free, energetic, and efficient. Temperament The French Bulldog breed is well-known for their calm and well-mannered temperament. Faults All dogs should be in proper healthy condition, free from disease or defect. Any departure from this description is considered a fault. Unless altered, all male dogs should have two fully descended testicles. Find a Puppy.

We breed multigenerational Australian Labradoodles and American Labradoodles. Our goal is producing loving Australian Labradoodle puppies and American Labradoodle puppies to add to your family: with hypo allergenic qualities, beautiful wavy fleeces and curles and exceptionally smart. A smart dog is a happy dog, they are easily trained which adds to the enjoyment of your new family member. We have chocolate Australian labradoodle puppies for sale, chocolate parti Australian labradoodle puppies for sale merle Australian labradoodle puppies for sale and many other color Australian labradoodles for sale. Our puppies will be smart like their parents who know both hand signals as well as voice commands. Many of our past puppies have become service dogs for Epileptic Seizure Services, Hospice Services, and other Service related settings. Why do our dogs make such Great Service Dog Candidates, our wonderful Rocky passes his wonderful calm demeanor to all of his puppies. Also, many people love the look of our Merle labradoodles - They are absolutely stunning. We tend to have clients in the Chattanooga, Tennessee and Huntsville, Alabama areas that have a found interest in our Miniature Australian Labradoodles and clients in Florida are particularly interested in our Merle Australian Labradoodles. Of course clients in Dallas Texas and parts of Illinois have added our Standard size Australian Labradoodles to there households. Whether clients are on vacation or simply enjoying the local park, It's exciting when we hear reports from our owners that they ran into another Australian Labradoodle that turns out to be a Lord and Lady Labradoodle all over the country. And clients never cease to tell stories of how people they meet rant and rave over there Lord and Lady Australian Labradoodle. He has normal training at home, like walking, sitting and playing ball. Foster update on Mr Finn is settling in well to foster. He loves playing with his toys and his foster brothers. He is house trained, and sleeps in his crate at night without a peep. He is kind and loving and is just a big goofy dog who would love a home and family of his own. He is good with kids but is big and goofy so he might accidentally knock a smaller kid toddler size over on accident. We took him to a party on Saturday and he met lots of new people and did great and also met some new dog friends that he enjoyed. Foster update: Mr Finn is loving doggie daycare! He gets along with all dogs and people, never had an accident in his kennel and knows his basic commands! He would love a fairly active home to keep him busy. He loves his ball! If interested in adopting, please click link below for more info. Below are our newest added Labradoodles available for adoption in Auburn, Georgia. To see more adoptable Labradoodles in Auburn, Georgia, use the search tool below to enter specific criteria! We raise high-quality Mini Labradoodles as well as a few other breeds. We also have partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini labradoodle pups that meet our strict genetic criteria and testing. So we usually have a good selection of very high-quality puppies. View Our Available Puppies! F1B Mini Labradoodle Puppies are a second-generation cross or hybrid. The father is a Mini Poodle and the mother is an F1 Labradoodle. The F1B Minature Labradoodles usually have soft hair that is usually wavy or curly. Thes puppies are considered semi-hypoallergenic since they shed minimally. These puppies can be a good fit if a person that has mild pet allergies. Once F1B Mini Labradoodles reach 6 months old they require to be groomed once every 8 weeks or so to keep their fur healthy and to stop matting. Adult F1B Mini labradoodle dogs range in size from 14 inches in height and pounds in weight. The average life span is typically years of age. The F1BB puppies usually have curlier coats and will be totally hypoallergenic. Once the F1BB pup is 6 months they will need regular grooming every 6 to 8 weeks. F1BB Puppies are usually slightly smaller than F1B puppies and range from 12 inches in height and pounds in weight. Mini Labradoodles are known for their intelligence and the ability to be trained very easily. They make amazing family pets and love to participate in family activities like swimming, hiking, camping or just playing tag in the yard. This breed is also a good choice for people who live in apartments as long as they get at least minutes of exercise a day. So if you live near Buford Georgia and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Labradoodle puppy that can be delivered to you then check out our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are some Mini Labradoodle pups that have been adopted.

Our Air Delivery option is available to bring our puppies straight to your doorstep. We take it upon ourselves to personally travel and deliver each puppy to their forever family with love and care. We strongly believe that this process is more beneficial than relying on a third-party to handle the transportation of our puppies. Why are we an exclusive Goldendoodle breeder? Their loyalty, affection and non-aggressive temperament make them great family dogs - especially families with children. With our dedication to raise the puppies in our personal home, the F-1B Goldendoodles are the perfect breed to trust around our two young daughters. What are F-1B Goldendoodles? An F-1B Goldendoodle has become very popular and is known for its friendly, loving nature paired with its hypoallergenic fur. The resulting dog has the wonderful disposition of a Golden Retriever with the almost non-existent shedding of the Poodle. We are so thankful you decided to visit! We hope the topics below help you get to know us better as you learn about our breeding style and puppies.Our Dogs. We specialize in breeding Mini Goldendoodles as well as a few other breeds. We also have partnered up with several other high quality breeders that raise mini goldendoodle pups that meet our strict genetic criteria and testing. So we usually have a good selection of very high quality puppies. View Our Available Puppies! Not all mini Goldendoodles are equal, there are a few different versions to choose from each having a little different genetic background based on the pups parents. We will explain all the differences in Mini Goldendoodle puppies and how they are bred below. We raise all versions of the mini goldendoodle breed. F1 Mini Goldendoodle Pups. A F1 puppy is also known as a First Generation puppy. The puppies mother is a Golden Retriever and the pups dad is a Mini Poodle. This version of mini goldendoodle usually has soft wavy or curly puppy fur. They will shed until they lose their puppy fur, after shedding they will shed a lot less, but will shed. This version is partially hypoallergenic and usually requires low maintenance. F1 mini goldendoodles usually need to be groomed every 6 months along with daily brushing to keep their curly hair from matting and getting tangled. The dogs usually grow up having great temperaments similar to golden retrievers. They usually get about inches high at the shoulder and range in weight from pounds. F1b Mini Goldendoodle Pups. An F1b is known as a second-generation mini goldendoodle with the pups mother being already an F1 Goldendoodle and the pups dad being a mini poodle also. So the difference between F1 and F1b is that the mom is not a golden retriever but an actual F1 Goldendoodle. They also have very soft curly hair but with almost no shedding. This F1b version is semi-hypoallergenic and a better choice for anyone who has pet allergies. The F1b also should be brushed on a daily basis but will need to be groomed more frequently then a F1. A 6 to 8 week grooming schedule is recommended to keep their coat in perfect condition. F1b Mini goldendoodles get around 18 to 20 inches tall at the shoulders and range between pounds in weight. F1bb Mini Goldendoodle Pups. An F1bb goldendoodle is also known as a third-generation mini goldendoodle. This mini goldendoodle version has a coat more similar to a poodle than of a golden retriever. This is because the pup is more of a poodle than a retriever. Making it the very best version for anyone with pet allergies. A 6 to 8 week grooming schedule is required to help prevent knots or matting. This version is super intelligent and loving, and usually seems to have more energy than the other versions of Mini goldendoodles. This version is usually smaller in size, weighing around pounds and only getting inches tall at the shoulders. The smaller size makes them a great size for smaller homes and apartments. So if you live near Georgetown Delaware and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Goldendoodle puppy then checkout our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are some Mini Goldendoodle Pups that have been adopted! The exact date this new breed was invented is unknown. Still, it seems likely that several people have been breeding them since the late s when they first emerged in an attempt to create a hybrid breed similar to the Labradoodle. Like its fellow Doodle breed, the Goldendoodle was designed for allergies due to their low shedding coats. A hypoallergenic coat combined with an endearing and friendly temperament is why the Goldendoodle has become one of the most popular hybrid dogs in the country. The Goldendoodle is a unique breed of dog with a remarkable history. Currently, there is a new generation of non-shedding Goldendoodles. The creation of deeper generations has shown remarkable progress in achieving better results with this coat type. Goldendoodles are highly social, outgoing dogs that thrive on human companionship. They have a great desire to please and learn from their owners. This trait makes them perfect candidates for service and therapy work or search-and-rescue operations where they can use those skills to help others in need. The Top 5 Disadvantages of the Goldendoodle Goldendoodles need a lot of daily exercises, so they might not be the right dog for a sedentary lifestyle. They should be walked outside and allowed to play for about an hour each day, or else they can become destructive because they are bored. In that case, it may engage in behaviors such as chewing, constant barking, and digging. People who work long hours are probably not the best candidates for Goldendoodle ownership. Although Goldendoodles are hypoallergenic, caring for those non-shedding coats can be expensive. They will need daily brushing to keep their coats healthy and clean. The Goldendoodle loves his family and always wants to be involved in family activities. However, that makes this breed prone to separation anxiety. Goldendoodles are incredibly loyal dogs who depend on their owners for emotional support, just like humans. However, this can have its drawbacks because if you spend a lot of time away from home or work long hours, the Goldendoodle may not be suitable for you. Your pup can develop separation anxiety and other behavioral problems when left alone all day without human contact. Preferable Pups always recommend using a breeder who thoroughly tests all pups for hereditary illnesses before adoption. Here is some information on the best Goldendoodle Foods. The color lightens over time. This color mimics the golden tones of the Golden Retriever. Goldendoodles come in a variety of colors and also a wide array of patterns. The most popular are brindle, merle, parti, tuxedo, abstract, phantom, and sable. By working with reputable breeders, you can find the Goldendoodle puppy with the coloring and coat pattern you are looking for. Size The Goldendoodle comes in three sizes, depending on whether it has a Miniature, Medium, or Standard Poodle in its genetics. Miniature Goldendoodles can weigh up to 20 pounds; Medium Goldendoodles can weigh up to 45 pounds; large Goldendoodles typically range between 50 — 75 pounds. Apply today to start the simple application process for a future Goldendoodle puppy from Preferable Pups! Need more information about Goldendoodle puppies for sale in Delaware? We make it simple when you are looking for Goldendoodle breeders. Does Preferable Pups have Goldendoodle puppies for sale in Delaware? Here at Preferable Pups, we work extra hard to only add the best section of Goldendoodle dog breeders and puppies in Delaware. How does Preferable Pups screen a Goldendoodle breeder in Delaware? We use PawFax to verify our Delaware Goldendoodles. With only the best breeders allowed in the Preferable Pups community, you have nothing to worry about when looking for your new best friend. Learn about our industry-leading process for screening the health of puppies. Learn More Do you have Goldendoodle puppies for sale near me in Delaware? Preferable Pups is always adding new fully screened and healthy Goldendoodle puppies. We have Goldendoodle puppies for sale all over Delaware and the surrounding areas within our Preferable Pups family of breeders. What if the Goldendoodle puppy I want is not in Delaware? Will you ship? When you search for Goldendoodle breeders in Delaware you will see each breeder has been asked to provide several pieces of information. One of the things we asked them to provide, is travel details. Do you have Mini Goldendoodle Pups for sale Delaware? Of course! The breed would not be complete without the mini Goldendoodle puppies. If you are looking for a mini Goldendoodle for sale in Delaware Preferable Pups has you covered. We have a great selection of mini Goldendoodle breeders in Delaware. Pricing is determined by the unique attributes of each particular puppy. These attributes include sex, temperament, coloring and more importantly, breeder experience. Welcome to the Delaware state page on TrustedPuppies. Known for its rich history, beautiful beaches, and vibrant culture, Delaware is an excellent place to find and raise your new Mini Goldendoodle companion. Our goal is to connect you with the most exceptional Mini Goldendoodle breeders and puppies for sale in the state, ensuring you find the perfect furry friend for your family. Our site features a wide variety of reputable Delaware breeders who specialize in raising amazing healthy puppies. Our DE breeders are committed to raising the highest quality puppies. They provide their puppies with all the necessary vaccinations and veterinary checkups to ensure they are in the best of health before they go to their forever homes. They also provide ongoing support and advice to ensure a smooth transition for both you and your new puppy. Discover the dynamic dog-friendly scene in Delaware, featuring inviting restaurants, spacious dog parks, and engaging dog shows. For those passionate about dog shows, events like the Wilmington Kennel Club Show provide an opportunity to appreciate the elegance and charm of Mini Goldendoodle canines while connecting with fellow enthusiasts. In terms of dog ownership, Delaware ranks 38th among U. At TrustedPuppies. Most of our reputable Mini Goldendoodle breeders provide safe and affordable flight delivery, complete with a dedicated flight nanny who accompanies your new pup throughout their journey, ensuring their safety and comfort as they travel to their new home in Delaware. Many breeders also offer affordable vehicle delivery, utilizing specialized pet delivery services. This option allows your Mini Goldendoodle puppy to be transported directly to your door by a professional who understands the unique requirements of pet transportation. Begin your search for the perfect Mini Goldendoodle puppy on TrustedPuppies. Questions about Goldendoodle puppies for sale in Delaware? We have answers. What is an overview of Goldendoodle puppies for sale in Delaware. If you love dogs but hate coughing, sneezing, and picking up clumps of hair every day, Doodles are for you. Soft, Cuddly, Cute Yes, all dogs are cute—but wait until you see our Goldendoodles. Hope you like taking pictures, because your camera is going to be working overtime with these dogs. Perfect Family Pet Goldendoodles get along great with kids and other pets, fitting right in with families as diverse as retired couples living a life of peace and quiet or active trailblazers who always find themselves out and about. Goldendoodles just love people, period. With four unique sizes and a ton of different coat colors, picking your perfect puppy has never been easier. Instead of becoming a puppy mill, we found a better way—and our Doodles seem to agree with our decision! Elite Delaware Goldendoodle Genetic Lines Our Goldendoodle lines are second to none, and we work hard to bring out the best in our dogs while minimizing and eliminating negative traits. Uptown Pups are known for being even-tempered, healthy, super smart insanely cute.

Ian discusses how we should learn to see the world from our dogs perspective and in doing so, how we can better earn their love and trust. Armed with this love and trust, we will form a better relationship and as a result, effective training becomes just that much more effective and enjoyable for both you and your dog. But please, first make sure to use the search facility in the footer of this website and browse our other sections as the subject may have already been covered: Labrador health and care , Labrador behavior , Labrador puppies , infobites and Labrador breed information. External Resources On Labrador Training Although referring to all breeds in general and not purely Labradors, for those of you that love to watch and not read, the series of dog training videos on www. If you like reading books then check out one of our favorite Lab books: The Complete Labrador Handbook. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. If this is the case,…. How does it feel to be a new puppy parent? You must be chuffed. Take a look at these first few articles. All the ingredients you need for a happy home. But for now, beside your bed is the best place for your puppy to sleep — it will help them feel safe. Puppies like their crates rather cave-like; we suggest covering it with a blanket to block out light, but keep the front open so that they can see outwards. Make sure to make it snug inside with something like a vet bed or a blanket, or why not take it up a notch with a heat pad or hot water bottle to recreate the feeling of their mother. Nothing feels more comforting than that. Before you head to bed, take your puppy out for one last round of loo-going. Set your bedtime at a later time too — midnight sounds about right. Come back calmly, and place your puppy in the crate and turn out the light. Stuff you should know about Sleep Training your Labrador Your puppy will wake up several times in the night and will need the bathroom at least once! Be prepared for not-so-deep sleeps and tired mornings — just for the first few weeks. Having them sleep next to you is only temporary. Consistency is key! As for you, full nights of sleep will start getting closer and closer. Alone Training How can I teach my Labrador puppy to be ok on their own? Start by feeding your puppy in their crate during meal times. If they seem worried by you leaving, stay in view, and just pop right outside their confinement area. Keep it short and sweet: No need to stay away for long, 60 seconds tops will do for now. Repeat: Do this at least once a day to make progress go steady and smoothly. Socialization Exercises To Do this week Letting your Labrador puppy explore the yard Besides the gnomes and questionable yard furniture you may have, letting your puppy explore your own yard is a great and safe way to start showing them the sounds, lights and wonders of the outside world. Exploring different surfaces exercise Make sure that the surfaces you use are safe — nothing too crazy just yet. Gather surfaces such as An oven tray with a small layer of water A piece of astro turf A carpet tile A large piece of tin foil, cardboard or something crinkly PRO TIP: Set up for this exercise in the room your puppy spends most of their time in — it will help them to feel safe and confident. Pop the surfaces out safely on the floor and allow your puppy to investigate them. Nobody has ever enjoyed walking on those. Remember to be patient! Lucky for you — teaching them their name is easy peasy. Say their name in a happy jolly tone and reward with a treat. Repeat five times, 5 and take a break. Practice this 2 or 3 times a day so they get the hang of it. Teach your puppy to sit Teaching your puppy how to sit is a popular one. The first two are far more common though. Keep using this word when they do the right thing, and then follow it up with a food reward. In puppy logic, stinky means yummy. How to do it Start at home; where there are no distractions. Just make sure to shut off Gogglebox in the background. Recall — How to teach our Labrador puppy to come back when called Your puppy already knows their name at this point, so this should be a walk in the park. How to do it Treats and a cheerful voice will be what works here. Do these exercises before meal times so your puppy is more motivated. Practice this 5 times a day and in 3 different places in your house and yard to get them used to coming to you in all settings. How to do it Show your puppy that you have their favorite toy, and start to get them excited about it. When they show interest, throw it a little bit away from you. They will likely follow it and pick it up. If they do, encourage them back to you with your voice, so remember to sound happy! Swap the toy for a treat or another toy and do the process again. Repeat this about 5 times. Instead create more distance and excitement sounds to get them to come to you — spaniels like to show off, so they will likely want to parade what they have! Always swap the toy for something when they have it, this could be a treat or another toy. Resource guarding occurs when we force puppies to give up items or snatch things out of their mouths. For breeds like Labradors who are designed to want to hold things in their mouths, this is pretty important! Resource guarding is when a dog protects a resource from being taken by someone else — dog or human. For some reason, there is a solid list of things puppies find irresistible: Socks. Print Early obedience first step to better hunting dog Labrador puppies start out sweet and innocent. All you want to do is cuddle up with your pup and love them! And you should! But rest assured the innocence will not last. As your pup gains confidence and courage, they will begin to test you in many ways. That is why you must obedience train your Labrador puppy. Early obedience training is key to establishing borders and boundaries that will help your puppy grow, learn, and adjust with a good attitude. There is no shortcut to doing this, just use the name often when you talk to your puppy. Over time, the pup will start to respond to the name. Socialization, while not technically obedience training, is the single most important thing you can teach your puppy during the first few months of life. If you are not sure how to do this, refer to this post. Tools needed to obedience train Labrador puppy You will need a few tools to teach your puppy obedience. The products I recommend I believe are a good value or good investment for anyone working to train or maintain training on their retriever. When possible, I include links to the product. Some of these links may be Amazon or other affiliate links in which I am paid a small commission at no cost to you. All opinions and recommendations are my own. Collar — You should purchase a size appropriate collar for your new puppy. You may have to buy new ones as your dog grows, but it is important for your puppy to get used to wearing a collar early on. A simple nylon adjustable collar works great. Chain collar — If your puppy is more than a few months old, a chain or prong collar is extremely helpful in teaching obedience, but they must be used correctly. For more information on how to put a chain collar on your dog correctly refer to this video. A longer lead, called a check cord, is also useful for teaching HERE and retrieving. You can learn more about that here. Heeling stick optional — While optional, a heeling stick can be especially helpful in teaching basic obedience. Treats — Treats are good for teaching very young puppies. I use treats for pups under 12 weeks of age, but treats should be discontinued rather quickly. When to start basic puppy obedience training Obedience training can and should start within the first couple weeks of having your puppy home. Young puppies are ready and willing to learn and teaching obedience to a young puppy is much easier than teaching it to an older dog. How long should obedience sessions be? Most labs do not enjoy obedience training. For this reason, we aim to keep obedience sessions short, especially if your dog is under 4-months of age. Five to ten minutes of obedience a day can work wonders. Especially if you are consistent. Using rewards or praise to teach obedience Many people like to use treats or rewards for obedience training. And this can work, especially with very young dogs. But for hunting dogs, over the long-term treats can become a problem. We do not want our dogs, or the dogs we train to be obedient only because they are getting a food reward. We want them to be obedient because they understand their place in the family and respect the owners. To get these lasting results, we use praise words and petting and a reward that retrievers live for — retrieves! Well-timed praise is a particularly important part of dog training. A message that it is okay to ignore me the first 9 times! This simply means that after a few minutes of formal obedience training, we release the dog with an OKAY command and that means they can run around and be a dog. We then throw a bumper or plug a for the dog to retriever. We do this a few times with a lot of excitement and allow the dog to retrieve the bumper. For retriever breeds, this is often more effective than a food reward. Be careful that you are not letting your puppy get into bad habits with retrieving. For instance, if your puppy often goes out to retrieve the bumper but then runs away with it, or picks it up and drops it, do not continue doing retrieves. While retrieving is a reward for many Labs, it is not an excuse to engage in behaviors that are not going to be acceptable in the field. If you want to learn more about how to properly teach your Lab to retrieve, check out How can I teach my retriever puppy to fetch? Introduction to leash and nylon collar The very first step for any puppy obedience is to introduce your puppy to a regular collar and leash. This should be done in two separate steps, first the collar and then the leash. Introduce the collar by putting a nylon type collar on your puppy. This is normal and you should not react to it. Introducing the leash is a little different. We like to do this outside. After a few sessions of this introduction, you can start holding the leash by the end and walking with the puppy. When the puppy tries to run or walk away, hold tight to the leash, and just let the puppy get used to the resistance. Some puppies have a hard time with this and will growl or whine and whip themselves around at the pressure, but most will not. Remain calm and after a few sessions the puppy should get used to the resistance of the leash. Do not allow the puppy to pull you around. That will make for some bad behaviors that you will need to correct later. If you cannot control your puppy with just a regular collar and leash, you may need to move to a chain or prong collar to keep control. What commands to teach Lab puppy There are only four basic obedience commands that you need to teach your young puppy. Remember when it comes to commands, less is more. OKAY — this is a release command, basically tells your dog were done training, go be a dog. As your puppy grows and learns more, there are some other commands that may be needed, but for puppies I like to start with just the four above. Dog training requires consistency Before you start with obedience training, I want to make a note about the importance of consistency. Obedience training only works if you are consistent. This means that when you say a command, you expect the puppy to perform the command, and are willing to take steps to make the puppy perform the command. If you do not remain consistent in this expectation, you will confuse your dog and get poor results from your training. You and your family must be consistent! How to start obedience training Lab puppy The first command you want to start teaching your puppy is SIT. This is quite easy to teach with a small puppy but gets a little tougher as they get bigger. Then release the puppy with the OKAY command. Repeat this process several times, then stop. If your puppy is weeks old, you can repeat this training several times a day for only a couple minutes at a time. This will be a two-person job for a little while. The other person will put the food down a few feet from the puppy. Then release the puppy to eat saying OKAY. As the pup learns and understands the command better, you will no longer need a second person to hold the puppy. You must be a little careful here because young puppies do not have great bladder control and making them wait, even a few seconds, can mean the difference between an accident and them doing their business outside. But this is a great way to teach impulse control and manners to your puppy. I do not want to have to fight for a position by the door. You can usually start working on this within a week or two of teaching SIT. A great way to teach this command to young puppies is to use two people and sit in a long hallway, one at each end. Take turns calling your puppy with a HERE command. A toy or treat can often help the process. Let your puppy run around a bit but hold onto the end of the cord. Occasionally, call you puppy with a HERE command. It can be helpful at first to crouch down to encourage the puppy to run towards you. Then release the puppy with an OKAY command. Do this a few more times and repeat daily until the puppy is coming to you without you needing to pull the cord. It is also the command most of our clients struggle with the most. Mostly because they are using the wrong tool for the job. For heeling work, it is important that you work with a chain or prong collar. This will give you more control and stop the pulling and surging that many people struggle with. Using a chain or prong collar and a six-foot leash, start walking your puppy at your side. If your puppy is young, be sure to use a puppy chain collar which is smaller than chain collars for adult dogs. And make sure that you are putting it on correctly! An alternate tool to a chain collar and leash is the Wonder or Command Lead. These work great for teaching HEEL. As you start walking use gently tugs on the chain collar with the command HERE to keep your puppy at your side. If your puppy surges or pulls ahead, simply make a degree turn and start walking the other direction giving a sharp, upward tug on the chain collar and saying HEEL several times until the dog is back in a heeling position. Many of our clients have told us they never left their driveway the first few days! But if you are patient and consistent, your dog will quickly learn that if they want to go for a walk, they need to stay at your side. If you want to learn and progress in more obedience work, check out these obedience drills for retrievers. Final thoughts on how to teach your lab puppy obedience Teaching your puppy obedience may take a lot of patience, time and work, but it is such an important thing to do. You will never regret the time! A well-mannered dog is such a joy to be around both in the home and in the field. How to obedience train Labrador puppy. Print Raising a retriever puppy like the pros Your Labrador puppy can seem small and fragile during those first few weeks home from the breeder. Labrador puppies will learn quickly about acceptable and unacceptable behavior those first few weeks, if you, the owner, are willing to set and enforce boundaries. Here is the training you should be working on with your week-old Labrador puppy. About this series of posts This is post three of a step-by-step training and socialization program for Labrador puppies. If you read our first post , you know that this series follows our training of Bubba, a female chocolate lab puppy. Bubba is already sold as one of our Custom Trained Retrievers, so it is our responsibility to raise and train her until she has progressed to the level of training the owner has requested. In this case, Bubba will be with us for almost a year and a half. Training and socialization for week-old Labrador puppy — week three home Your week-old puppy has been with your family for approximately 3 weeks now. This week you should start noticing some bigger changes with your puppy. Here are some of the changes I notice with Bubba. First, she is growing fast! Bubba is almost ready for a new collar already. I have loosened her current collar twice, and there is no more room to expand it. She is also learning a lot. Bubba is also becoming more personable. She likes and has more interest in people now and wants to be petted and scratched more often. Training equipment for Lab puppy We added a couple new training tools this week. But a thicker check cord will also work. We use this check cord for longer outside marks and assistant-marks which I will discuss more in a bit. Puppy sized canvas or light-weight plastic bumpers In week two, we introduced formal retrieving in a hallway in the house. In week three, we move outside with retrieving and introduce assistant throws, so it is helpful to have a few more bumpers. Puppy training that will continue Much of the training I have been working on for the past two weeks with Bubba will continue into this week and beyond. Dog training is not something that has a definitive end-date. For instance, you teach your puppy to SIT and then you must work and practice that command daily or weekly, often for months before the response to the command is solid. But even once the response is solid, you cannot completely stop training. If you stop training, even an older dog, the dog can lose the previous training. So, realize that you are never done working with your dog, especially on obedience training. Some areas that we will continue training Bubba on are: Crate training Bubba is doing great at crate training. She rarely makes any noise while in her crate and settles down quickly after being put into her crate. In the upcoming weeks, we will work towards getting Bubba to enter her crate on command. Looking for more information on crate training? Housebreaking Housebreaking Bubba is going well. We have caught her in a few accidents, but she already seems to understand that she is not supposed to go potty inside. This does not mean that she is done housebreaking. We still expect accidents and will for a few months, so we watch her carefully while she is running around in the house. We also praise her for behaviors like going to the door and tapping the door or whining at the door. These behaviors are rewarded with us taking her outside to go potty. When she goes potty outside, we praise her and then take her right back in. We want her to start understanding that these cue behaviors will get her out to go potty and that is all. Looking for more information on housebreaking? But we will also add a few new ones. We will use this while teaching our puppy the SIT command. It also will be used going forward, anytime we are done working on structured obedience work. We will release the dog from formal work with the OKAY command. But we also use it to mean go to a certain place, such as on a mat or stand. Or, when we want her to go into her crate or kennel. This is an associative command, meaning the puppy will learn the command through our repetition of the word as we tie it to a behavior. But over time, she will make the association and will perform it on her own. This is very important especially if you ever plan on doing more advanced training with your retriever. You will use whatever your dogs name is. A few commands that we will continue to work on this week We will continue to work on obedience commands this week and in the weeks to come. Each week we will expect a little more and better compliance and performance to the command. She is sitting when I put the leash and chain collar on her and when I am taking it off. This week we also added SIT before eating. We only make her SIT for a few seconds; we are working on control. She does not SIT on her own yet, but she will be doing that within a week or so I would guess. Right now, I grab her collar and say SIT. In week three, I have a slightly higher expectation. On walks, I make her walk right beside me for a minute or two using the HEEL command before releasing her and letting her run back and forth a bit. This tells me that she understands the command. Then release her. If every time your puppy comes to you, you put her away or take something away from her, soon your puppy will not want to come to you. You must work hard to make coming to you a good experience for your puppy. So, call her, praise her when she comes and release. Remember: Never use a HERE command if you are not in the position of being able to enforce the command. Make every effort to socialize your puppy You should continue to take steps to socialize your week-old puppy. Anything you can think of. The more things and situations you expose your puppy to, the better your puppy will be equipped to adjust and learn in the future. Learn more about socialization. Hand throws with a puppy bumper you are throwing out a bumper done outside will carry a lot more distraction than retrieves in a hallway. Just pick up the bumper and try again tomorrow. When retrieving outside, make sure you have a long foot rope attached to your puppy. Never try to do retrieves outside without a rope. You will have problems and encourage bad behaviors. You must have a way to get the puppy to come back to you, otherwise you should not be doing retrieves outside. Once your puppy is doing well retrieving outside, you are ready to introduce assistant marks. Introduction to assistant marks The most important thing we worked on with Bubba this week is assistant marks. Assistant marks are retrieves where someone else is throwing the bumper, not you. This teaches your puppy to watch out in the field for a mark. It is very rare that a duck will come from behind you, fly over your head and you shoot it. The ducks and pheasants will be falling in front of you, so the dog must learn to look out and watch for the mark. We start assistant marks on very short grass with white plugs so that the puppy can clearly see the item on the ground. We hold the puppy in a SIT position facing a thrower who is about 20 feet from you. When your puppy picks up the bumper, immediately start calling her back to you. Remember, you should have the foot check cord on her so you can pull the puppy in if needed. Then, take the bumper from her, throw it behind you, make your puppy sit facing the thrower again and repeat. Only do retrieves and then call it a day. Soon your puppy will learn this game and love it. They will start facing the thrower on their own and sitting and waiting for a mark. Final thoughts on training for your week-old Labrador puppy week-old puppies are so eager to learn, so be sure and take advantage of this enthusiasm to teach new concepts and enforce previous ones. Continue to teach your puppy to handle more and more pressure and correction while maintaining a good attitude. Lastly, assistant marks are a big deal. Once a dog learns this part of the game, you can work to increase the distance and complexity of the marks. If you are struggling or need additional help with your new puppy, you can email me ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time, happy retrieving. Labrador Retriever pups are working dogs. This means they live to please you for a treat. The more you engage them with different puppy training behaviors the happier they will be. Of course, Labs will be Labs, and this means that dogs do dog things unless they are trained to follow your expectations. Potty training your puppy is just the beginning of you making clear expectations for your Lab. Puppy training from long leash training to potty training, to not nipping is discussed in greater detail along with clear, easy to follow videos at www. But we will give you an expert training tip summary below. For this reason, you need to become an expert on puppy training. Contact us for a discount on the Puppy Trained Right positive reinforcement training program. Expose your puppy to as many different people and situations possible. Teach dog to dog manners when required. Use Positive Reinforcement. Allow for Play with Other Puppies. Play with other Lab Puppies not only allows your pup to get some exercise it is a form of puppy socialization. Bond with your Puppy. Once a strong bond is formed your Lab Puppy will want to please you even more. Potty Train Right Away. Learn how Dogs Learn. Training a Lab puppy is easy if you understand how to go about it. Give your Lab Puppy Play time to Explore. Labs need this as part of their natural development. Spend more time with your puppy when young. This is the time when your expectations should be clearly outlined and can decrease as she gets older. Begin Training day 1. This happens weather or not you intend it to. Every action and reaction is something your puppy uses to form new habits. So ignoring them jumping up as an 8 week old puppy is training them to jump up and will be much more difficult to un-train once they are 70 lbs. Relax and make learning fun. Your pup needs you happy and enjoying yourself! Use Positive Training Methods because they work. This means reward what you desire. Ensure most Experiences are Positive. Imagine a training session of No, No, No, No! Expose them to as Many Human Situations possible. One cause is that there was not adequate socialization with different men. Be Patient. You are building an amazing K9 personality. The window is between 8 and 20 weeks old. Make the most of it. The better your Lab is socialized the happier they will be. Anxiety in dogs comes from many things. The more things your dog is comfortable with the less chance for anxiety and therefore the happier they are. Prepare yourself, your family and your home before your puppy comes home. It is too late once you meet your puppy as simply interacting with her is training. Allow for Safe Experiences both in the home and outside. Seek professional trainers to help guide you when faced with a problem. Be consistent. Clear expectations are easiest to learn. Focus on Guiding not controlling. Best Start Training or Training Classes are beneficial for both you and your puppy. Expect Success. We tend to move in the direction we believe we will travel. Reward the Behaviors you want to see even something as simple as 4 paws on the ground if you are trying to train your Lab not to jump up on you. Become Well informed. You are teaching a skill like reading that takes clear expectations and builds upon last session. Lab Puppies need constant supervision either human, a crate, a fenced area or a baby gate across a doorway. Encourage a soft mouth. Keep your training up or it will be forgotten. Begin Walking on a Loose Leash Right away. This is always easier for your Lab when they are 12 lbs not 70lbs. Change direction before the leash tightens so they are followers not leaders. This is much easier to train before it happens than correct. Allow alone time for your Lab. Know when to end a training session. End training before your puppy quits. Make time for a few shorter training Sessions. Three fifteen minute sessions are better than one 45 min one. Teach your Lab to respond to their name. Teach your Labrador basic obedience before tricks-come, sit, stay, down, leave it. Have all humans learn the commands and be consistent. Ignore undesirable behaviors. Ignoring includes not saying no, bad dog, touching your dog or making eye contact. Find rewards that your Retriever loves and use them when you have breakthrough training moments. Adjust your expectations as your Lab puppy matures, the older more experienced the higher the expectation. Set Realistic Expectations. Minimize distractions when you begin training. Be aware of your Body Language, Labradors pick up cues from you. Be aware of your leash tension. A tight leash says anxiety from the handler. Know when to get Help .Have fun! Understand that Labs do Lab things. Make them work for food and treats. Exercise your Retriever properly for both intensity and duration. Learn some exercise games Labs love. Give lots of repetition. Stop before they get bored. Establish a Pattern by Praising. Redirect undesired behavior. Accept partial actions at first and gradually increase your expectations. When treats end Verbal treats and chin scratches rule. They will know. Enjoy your well balanced purebred Lab puppy for many years. Purebred Lab Retrievers, are they easier to train? The answer to that is definitely maybe! Not all purebreds are bred for intelligence. For example, if a Labrador Retriever breeder chooses to breed their dogs for a certain look then they may overlook intelligence as one of the important characteristics in order to get a specific Lab look. We however breed for intelligence, health and temperament. So in our case, yes, our Purebred Lab Puppies are easier to train than many because we choose the parents and their puppies specifically for their smarts!