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We've had her for 2 days now and she is adjusting well to her new home. We recommend boxermompupsaz. Dave and Debbie Phx. Cheryl was extremely helpful and supportive throughout the entire process. I would recommend her to anyone looking to find their nest boxer puppy. Kona is a great addition to the family! We just adopted Rock fawn male boxer on Jan 20th from Cheryl, we are so happy with the service and great care they gave our boy! We are so blessed to have found the and brought us our new boxer, We had Sparky for 12 years and we just fell in love with the breed. We are very happy with our whole experience with this breeder and would recommend them to all. Thank you again I have been a Boxer fan my whole life. My mom bred Boxers back in NY. I love that sweet face, silly personality and wiggle butt you can only have with a boxer! We recently had to put our girl Reese down at 12 years old. We didn't know if we were ready.My boss recommended I reach out to Cheryl, as she had just gotten a pup from her a month before. I did and Cheryl took the time to find out what color, gender and timing we wanted to have a puppy. She kept me posted on available litters and when I could expect a new baby. Cheryl was very good about answering all the new mom questions I had and was very patient. Within 3 months of putting down our deposit we were the proud parents of Riplee! Our crazy, beautiful Seal puppy. We could not be happier with her. She is bright eyed, sweet and full of energy. Michelle Phx So here we are.Boxer parents again. Doris has went to the vet with our Yorkie for vaccinations. Low and behold there was a 6 month old boxer more than likely from Cheryl there that jumped and played with my wife as the story goes. She came home and was crying. Prior to us moving here, we had two boxers. Once you have a Boxer your life will never be complete without a Boxer jumping around, slobbering and those eyes.That day after the vet my sole purpose was to find another Boxer. I searched Phoenix not knowing we had the best breeder here in Tucson! I called Cheryl and we actually went to a visitation for other parents to be that weekend. We got to play, snuggle and bathe some of the pups. Miss Cheryl was busier than a one legged man in butt whooping contest. It was Amazing. So we chose to get a pup from the next litter. We too started getting texts at like am. We chose Princess Tessa. She is home with us now and we love her so. The anxiety was killing us like a kid around Christmas! Could not wait for that day Tessa came home. Thank you Cheryl for making us whole again. Tessa is happy and doing well. If you want a Boxer, please call Cheryl! We decided that we would get a boy and a girl. It had great information on it and lots of pictures so we could see how the dogs were taken care of. We got lucky and Cheryl had a pick of the litter male available first. Moose has been a blessing to us as he reminds us daily of our old boy we lost. We then waited for our girl to be born from Khalessi and Bama Boy. We finally went to pick up Poppy a few weeks ago and the two have been inseparable ever since. Cheryl also gave us a nice starter kit for both dogs and provided the microchip for the dogs. We would definitely recommend her if you are looking to get a boxer in the near future. Working with Cheryl was absolutely amazing and you can truly see that she honors the work that she does each and every day. She cares about these animals and she keeps her promises. We purchased a beautiful female fawn boxer this past February after she was born into a litter last December. The price was also very reasonable and Cheryl went above and beyond our expectations. Our baby boxer Bella is an absolute gem and beyond everything we thought she was going to be. Thank you Cheryl and God bless you. We were thrilled to find Cheryl in Tucson. I loved that we could see her previous puppies on the website as well as the expecting parents. Even the sales contract was online to help us understand what to expect. We felt comfortable making a deposit and waiting for the right puppy to come along. Cheryl communicated throughout the process and she was responsive to any questions we had. Love at first sight! He has melted our hearts as well. He is very handsome too, clearly has good genes! Highly recommend obtaining a boxer puppy from Cheryl! Great experience and great dogs! Michelle- Phx Cheryl is great to work with, she was very helpful with all my questions. Would definitely work with Cheryl again, if I was crazy enough to get 2 puppies at the same time again! When she passed in December, we did the math and calculated that putting in a deposit on a pup in February would be perfect timing for a new summer family member. Best laid plans.Eddie "Cue Ball" McDonald came home just in time to keep us company and get the best puppy pampering and bonding experience ever during quarantine. He's brought so much love and joy--and much needed entertainment and exercise--into our lives, and has been exactly the happy, healthy, smart, good boy we hoped for. Cheryl was so kind and great to work with, and her love for the animals is very clear. We'd recommend working with her anytime! Leigh - Tucson Would definitely recommend Cheryl when purchasing a puppy. She was there for us during the good and not so good times. Cheryl is a very knowledgeable breeder, she is a compassionate and loving human being. I have already been recommending her here in Willcox. Thank you so much for Buckshot Cheryl. She kept us up to date through the entire process. When it came time to pickup Ava, she provided us with a little goody bag to give Ava the best start! We are so happy we added her to our family. She is already bossing her big brother around and they love to snuggle. Racheal in Phx Hi, Cheryl! My husband has wanted a Boxer dog since he was a kid. We finally got into the golden stage with our family -- kids all the perfect age, big house with a big back yard -- and we decided to go for it. I happened upon Cheryl's site and immediately reached out to her. We got in touch over the phone and had the greatest conversation ever. She answered every single one of my questions and helped me feel so comfortable! I could tell right away that she'd been doing this for a long time and that she truly cared about her dogs. It was so comforting! It would be a whole lot worse though if we didn't have Hondo and Duke around to keep us company. Thank you, Cheryl, for everything! We could not have asked for a better experience! Michelle- Phx Cheryl is such a pleasure to work with. We bought our first boxer from her almost a year ago. Dex has such a great temperament and Cheryl does a great job at socializing her puppies. We couldn't be more pleased with Dex. In fact we had such a great experience with Cheryl that when we decided to get a friend for Dex and more Boxer love for us, we contacted Cheryl and we bought our little girl Remi basically over the phone. Cheryl sent us some pictures of her and we fell in love. Over the next 2 weeks Cheryl was great with sending videos and pics before pick up day. We have gotten a lot of compliments on Dex and Remi Kristen We contacted Cheryl through her website, we were not sure we wanted to travel to Tucson but after looking at her pups online we were interested. There just was nothing in Phoenix. Either they didn't have the mom or they didn't have the dad, we weren't interested. So we drove down to meet Cheryl. She was well into breeding and knew a lot about the boxer breed. She didn't have any puppies available at the time as they were all sold. But we came on a visitation day, we were impressed with her puppies. She said there would be a couple of litters coming up if we were interested. We wanted a flashy female. She called us in a couple weeks and said she had one come available and we could have her in 5 weeks, we could come and see her in a week so we jumped at the chance. Cheryl kept us updated and sent pictures once a week. Very very impressed with Cheryl and feel we gained a friend as well as our dear Daisy. Cheryl thanks again! Janet-Phx Cheryl was absolutely amazing from start to finish. Getting a puppy from her was the best experience. From getting to meet the parents then getting updates on puppies along with pictures. Even visitations with them while we were waiting to take him home. I will definitely be coming back. We love our Onyx more than words. Lynette-Tucson Cheryl Galloway is absolutely amazing and the quality care she puts into breeding boxers is absolutely amazing. She truly cares about what she does and we are over the moon with our baby Boxer Bella, born December .I highly recommend Cheryl. She definitely has a passion for what she does. Thank you again Cheryl! Lois-Phx Cheryl was amazing through every step of the way!! She is VERY knowledgeable and takes great care of all her dogs and puppies. She was very honest and accommodating with all my questions and fantastic at responding to my MANY requests for pictures and videos of our girl : Our little firecracker is FULL of personality, well-socialized, and came home knowing how to use the doggy door bonus! Domino is the perfect addition to our family, and there is no doubt that we know just who to contact when we are ready for another. Can't thank you enough! Kim Phx We had a great experience! Cheryl and boxermompupsaz. Great communication leading up to the sale, great payment options and very friendly to deal with. Our pup was in excellent health,,he had current health record and all of the proper shots for his age! Adam and Jodi in Tucson I found Cheryl on line when looking for a boxer puppy after losing our best friend Rookie. Cheryl was friendly and kind on the phone but when we met her in person I was taken by her knowledge and her professionalism as well. Mugsy was born to Lexi the night before Thanksgiving. Cheryl texted me all night long starting at 10pm until am until all 9 pups were born. You might not want to do that but I asked and Cheryl delivered! After Mugsy was born we came out several times for visits. The puppies were all healthy and clean and full of personality. When we picked Mugsy up Cheryl sent us home with a care package with everything we would need to get us through the first week just in case we forgot anything. She thought of everything! New toys, food bowls, collar and leash, first aid kit, basic medical supplies. Because Cheryl socializes her pups so well, Mugsy came home already using the doggie door. Cheryl is warm and caring and she loves her pack. All that we met had great temperaments and were living long healthy lives. Mugsy is part of our family now and we know Rookie would approve. Thanks Cheryl for a great experience. Working with Cheryl was wonderful! From the very beginning she was very open to communication and tons of questions from us. She was patient when we explained we had to wait because we lost our dog in February. We were able to go meet Cheryl and a few of her dogs, just to put a face to the name. She is open to any questions and very knowledgeable about the Boxer breed. Once we found out a litter was due, she kept us informed on the due date and sent pictures of the pups immediately! We were so happy! Even for the first weeks, Cheryl sent pictures of our chosen pups and videos! Which made my day! I would recommend Cheryl to anyone seeking a Boxer to add to their family! Shelley W. While we were waiting for our little Kai in December, we decided to adopt Meka Gucci one of your retired females in October. Meka is such a sweetheart and gets along with the family. Then in December we were able to bring Kai home. They get along so well, and they're so much fun to watch. They sure bring a lot of joy and happiness! Thank you for what you do, we know for sure who to go to when we need another boxer or two! Thanks again! Pam and Bob Surprise Az. .Cheryl was wonderful to work with. I was very lucky that when I called her she had just had a litter of pups available! And I have Lucy. We had decided on getting a brindle girl, and when the litter came, Cheryl let us know. We came for the first visit and saw that she had a boy still available. And of course we couldn't leave him so we ended up with two puppies. We love Luke and Leia so much and Cheryl was so easy to work with. If ever we are looking for another puppy, we will come back to Cheryl. When I was ready for another pup, I knew Cheryl was the one to call. I had expressed my interest in an older Boxer that was retiring and needed some love. It was so special to have the opportunity to adopt little Scout's dad, Buddy has absolutely completed the home and he is the most loving and gentle dog in the world. It means so much that you chose and trusted me to take care of this sweet boy, he is beyond spoiled and so very loved! Thanks for all you do! Xoxo Kenzie,Scout and Buddy Hey Cheryl, I have gotten two dogs from Cheryl and have really been pleased with the service she gives and you can really tell this is her life passion. Cheryl always explains what she has done for the puppies she brings into your life and really wants her puppies to start out right with you. Cheryl is always willing to give you advice and always willing to answer questions. I would highly recommended Cheryl and her puppies to anyone. Thank you Cheryl Sincerely, P. Mongo and Brawley are doing great and getting along. I lost my beloved boxer a few years ago and was ready to get another one. I love the breed and how they bond with their families. The previous breeder was no longer breeding, so I decided to try Cheryl because of the reviews. She did not disappoint. She let me and my daughters come down to pick our pup, spent time talking with us and telling us about the parents and their temperaments. Our puppy, is a puppy and full of boxer energy, but she has already bonded with me and comes near if she feels I am upset, she is amazing with my 2 year old. Shannon-Chandler Cheryl is a total joy to work with, and an awesome breeder. It is obvious how much she loves her dogs. They all have great and gentle personalities as well as being physically beautiful. She clearly explains the process to transfer CKC registration and microchip ownership information. She sends your puppy home with a great starter bag that includes a dog pillow, a leash and collar, stuffed toys, treats etc. We would highly recommend Cheryl as a breeder. Our little Bella is now four months old. We take her everywhere and she always draws a crowd of admirers which she graciously soaks in. We are so very blessed because of Cheryl and her beautiful babies. My husband is retired and the house was just too empty without Damien. I hated not being greeted by my fawn colored kidney bean when I would get home from work. So we talked and decided we would get a Boxer from a breeder. We found Cheryl and we feel so fortunate that we did. The first Boxer we got from her is Lil-Bit and she is retired and the sweetest girl ever. She's laid back and very protective of myself and my Husband. Loves to just be with us and go on walks. We also got a brand new pup and his name is Sam. He is almost 9 weeks old and very smart. I had many questions about his shots and was super concerned about the Parvo virus. He already had three shots and was wormed when we brought him home. Cheryl told me to have visitors take off their shoes before they enter my house and wash their hands before touching the pup. I went as far as buying shoe covers! She is always available for questions or to just run something by her. She really loves her dogs. I truly believe that this is her calling, just by the way she is with all of them. You could not find a better person to buy a Boxer from. Cheryl lets you visit whenever you want, unless one of her girls is delivering. She stays home with them the whole time, You also bring home a huge bag of goodies when you bring your pup home. Food,bed,toys,collar and leash and so much more. Every Boxer I ever get will be from Cheryl. So I googled and found Cheryl. I decided to surprise the family for Christmas and Cheryl made this such an easy and fun experience! She was very informative and willing to be on call for any help I needed. Our baby Petunia is healthy, adorable and smart. If we ever decide on another puppy, we will definitely be calling Cheryl again. Julie- Chino Valley Cheryl is not only an amazing breeder but a kind heartened and sweet women that is passionate about her boxers. This is a late review but there is no better time then now to share my experience. I had to put down my old boxer of 15 years back in April and I was distraught. After a couple months I branched out, looking for boxer breeders. I'm so glad I found Cheryl. She responded to my text right away and I was set on the last male puppy in Luna's litter. Cheryl was attentive and sent updated photos of baby Apollo, all the way up until pick up. She was kind enough to meet my boyfriend and I half way, on her way to Phoenix. Baby Apollo is now 19 weeks old. He is a great addition to our little family; very healthy, happy, goofy and spunky. I'm so thankful for Cheryl. We might come back for second addition soon! Nicoletta- Az. My Husband and I knew we wanted a puppy for our family. We have always adopted from a shelter, but now with 4 small children and one on the way we decided to find a breeder. The minute we made contact with Cheryl we knew that we were working with a person who loves her dogs and her puppies. Our sweet boy Leo is just the most amazing puppy and we are all so in love with him. From the first day that I contacted her, she sent tons of photos, videos and had quick responses to my emails and texts and she always had the puppies best interest at heart, which I absolutely loved. We can tell that our puppy Aspen was so well taken care of and loved because of how attached to Cheryl she was every time we went and visited her. I would recommend Cheryl to anyone looking for a purebred boxer that is very well taken care of and loved. Cheryl, thank you for our precious new puppy and her amazing going home bag and gifts. We love Aspen so much! Rivers Family It all started back in early December as my wife and I were wanting to get a second boxer as we had to put our Boy down in , we have a female 6 year old boxer named Delpheena Rose. Cheryl contacted me back saying that she has a litter due in late Dec. Well the puppies were born and on we got the best present, we got 1st pick of the pups! We picked the all black male boxer. We were so excited, starting putting names on a list and name after name we just couldn't pick one. We asked if we could come and meet our puppy and Cheryl welcomed us to come and meet our boy. The puppy was 2 weeks old when we went to meet our baby. Love at first sight to say the least, we chose the name "Dexter". I have to say that being able to go and meet the puppy was one of the best things we did. We ended up going to see Dexter twice and then at week 7 and one day we picked Dexter up. We are so happy with how well Cheryl takes care of these babies. I would totally recommend Cheryl to anyone who is looking for one of the best additions to the family. We will be getting a second puppy in the future. Marc and Megan I am so happy I was able to find Cheryl and her pups. I had a horrible experience of losing my brindle baby and best friend of 8 years. We rescued her from the streets and gave her love and I never thought I would lose her. Well, when I found Cheryl, i knew i had to get another puppy. I have been in love with my puppy since we went to pick her up. She is amazing, she has adapted very well and she loves seeing us walk thru the door after a long day of work. I will forever be grateful for Cheryl for giving my new baby girl and myself a new chance. We will definitely be going back to you!! Just got Firulais! I contacted Cheryl months after losing my best friend Winslow, a rescue boxer who had to be put down do to lymphoma. I was sure I wanted another boxer because a home is just not complete without one. I found Cheryl online. Having always done rescues I was nervous, but Cheryl had great info about her and her dogs and all her reviews were glowing. Cheryl responded to my and email right away and asked to put Winslow's picture on the memorial page. She asked if I was ready for another puppy but understood if I wanted to wait. She told me Midnight and Buddy had just had a litter. She sent me photos and I fell in love with Wyatt. Cheryl encouraged us to come see Wyatt right away. She worked hard to coordinate with us and brought Wyatt and even his mom Midnight. It was obvious Cheryl loves and cares for all the dogs she has. Both were happy, healthy and social. We got to see Wyatt every week and even met his dad, Buddy, and his siblings on and off her property. He was always clean, and on schedule for shots, de-wormer etc. Cheryl would text me photos, videos, and updates. Wyatt even got his nub nipped by a litter mate and she made sure he was looked at and cared for. We picked Wyatt up to bring him home and Cheryl literally gave us everything we needed. At 18 weeks Wyatt is an active, healthy, playful, loving puppy who is great with people of all ages and other dogs. Thank you so much Cheryl! As someone who doesn't trust easily and as someone who always had rescues, I can say this was a great experience. I wish all breeders were as responsible and caring as Cheryl. Someday Wyatt may get a sibling and we will be using Cheryl! Thank you Boxer Mom Pups Az! Christina Amazing! We now have a happy, healthy and very special little girl. Cheryl is one of a kind, she takes great care in making us feel apart of the whole experience from birth to take home. The pictures during the first weeks the visits and take home care package. We will never buy from anyone else. Thank you so much for our new baby girl, Zoey! They came home with us Dec 4th. What a wonderful delight they are- healthy happy puppies. Cheryl does a wonderful job with her breeding! If you are in the market for a puppy- Cheryl is definitely the place to go. She loves her Dogs! Not a typical breeder.Yvonne - Tucson Cheryl is not your average breeder. She cares about everyone of her puppies and she makes sure they go to the right homes. We just got not one but two puppies and I couldn't be happier!! We met and picked our first one at 4 days old and fell in love with another one while we had visitation of the one we originally picked!!! When the 7 weeks finally came so we could take our babies home. Cheryl had a bag full of needed items as well as pillows to make the transition easier!! I will definitely keep in touch with how our babies are doing and would love to see new puppies as they are born!! My whole experience was amazing. I recommend Cheryl to everyone. My nephew and daughter both are proud owners of Cheryl 's boxers. I consider her a friend now! I will be in the market again SOON! Shawnee - Tucson Boxer Mom I want to thank you so much for our wonderful puppy Angel we got from you a couple years ago. You were so helpful and when she got lost, you were so helpful in reminding us about the microchip and got her BACK! You have been there anytime we have an issue and referring your vet they are Great! Just recently Angel had 6 puppies and you were on the other end of the phone the whole time, offered to come over if there was a problem. Everything went well, pups all found loving homes. Thanks again for your help. So glad you have this section for us to tell our experiences, I am sure I'm not the only one! April - Tucson Dear Cheryl I want to let everyone know I have purchased several dogs over the years, and have never met a more compassionate person as you. You really want whats best for your pups. We will certainly refer you to anyone interested in purchasing a Boxer puppy. Our pup came with a starter kit. It even had some things in there for me! It was much more than I expected. We brought Honey home and didn't need to go to the store to buy anything. You were very through in selecting what we would need our first night at home with our new puppy. Also, your Memorial page is very thoughtful for those of us that have lost a canine companion. He is such a good puppy and great addition to our other Boxer Lola. The starter kit you sent him home with shows how much you love your dogs and want the best home for them. Thanks again for all the pics and updates you sent me prior to us bringing him home! Sheryl - Scottsdale Cheryl was so amazing to work with and we would do it again in a heartbeat! The initial conversational was great, she took the time to ask us our needs as a family and helped match us to the right pup; Sigourney is exactly that, the perfect boxer girl. Cheryl also sent pictures and updates during the waiting period which was immensely appreciated. Pick up day went smooth and we had a peaceful time chatting with her for a bit. Her goodbye with Sigourney touched our heart, her love for all her dogs and the puppies were palpable. Sigourney's temperament is amazing. She is happy, calm and patient. She is doing great with all three kids and all under 5yrs old! She truly is a little ball of joy. We recommend and will continue to recommend Cheryl to everyone who genuinely wants a happy, healthy boxer paired with the best experience. We look forward to the future, God Bless! My daughter named her Baja. You were wonderful in keeping us up to date with pictures and helpful with our questions. It was such a pleasure to have met you. I will definitely recommend you to other people. It was a wonderful experience and Cheryl is a loving, caring breeder. Our puppy Coco is a beautiful, healthy and a joyous addition to our family. We highly recommend her puppies! As a lifelong boxer owner and lover, I have to say this was my best breeder experience ever. From my initial contact to email to the day I picked Max up, Cheryl was so responsive to questions, sent lots of pictures and updates as Max grew with his siblings. When I first went to meet Max not only could I meet his parents, but a lot of her adult boxers. I knew right away this was a great place. Every dog adults and pups were clean, friendly and happy. Sure enough Max has that same great temperament as his parents. It is hard to find breeders who are truly loving and care so deeply to better this great breed. This is the only breeder I know who actually holds the pups till 9 weeks just to make sure the 2nd round of the 4 puppy shots is done. In addition Max came home with all the info I could ever need, plus a great goody bag with treats, food, food bowl, and some of his favorite toys. Along with a surprise for us! I could have found 50 breeders closer to my home, but will never get another pup anywhere but from here and would recommend them to everyone. I can't thank Cheryl enough for completing our family! Mesa, Az. I want to thank you so much for giving us the most awesomest experience in finding our new family member. Being able to visit with our new pup throughout the weeks was so great, bonding with her and seeing her grow. All of your dogs were so great and after meeting them the first time I knew I made the right choice coming to you. I could tell you take pride in breeding and raising such wonderful dogs. You made this such a pleasant experience. I look forward to keeping in touch and we are so proud to be apart of boxermompupsaz family!! Thank You, Thank You!! Shannon O. Tucson We want to thank you so much for Lego, he is the perfect addition to our family. From the moment we met you till we picked up Lego, you were great! You gave us a lot of advice and answered our questions and concerns. Even now I know I could call and you will be there to help. Thank you so much for the wonderful experience. Stevie H. Tucson On an odd rainy day in February, I met up with Cheryl at the vet's office to meet Valentino, when I saw the puppies I could not decide which one so I adopted them both as love is not for sale. There were only 3 in their litter and Romeo was already reserved. Teddy and Valentino named so due to being born on Valentines Day are the love that we needed in our family. Let me tell you, sometimes they are very mischievous, rambunctious and can be down right stubborn. With that being said, I would not trade them for the world. Valentino is the leader, he has gotten into the sink and stole a defrosting London Broil. How did he get into the sink? Maybe he stood on Teddy's back. I can imagine them doing this, they are THAT intelligent. Well dinner was a little late but I was more concerned about his sensitive stomach. Teddy loves being on my white Italian leather sofa, he loves it so much that he smelled something probably crumbs and tore a hole right into the shoulder of it. I spent a Saturday sewing it up, while arguing with Teddy. He has claimed this sofa as his own. This is the love that I speak of. No matter what they get into, just one look at those sad eyes and I am a big bag of mush. They are the cleanest babies I have ever seen. They love to play in the mud and I let them! They are my babies. They are so smart, I lock them out of the doggie door and they will clean themselves, when finished they knock on the door. They loves kids! They use to jump on them but I have trained them that babies cry. So now they walk up and allow them to pet them while they wag their stumps and drool thank goodness Walmart has an endless supply of baby wipes. They are very territorial,nthis is our fault. We have kept them all to ourselves. We love them so much. Cheryl, the cost that we paid for them is nothing to the joy that they have brought us. The wagging stump waiting for us after a bad day, they love us unconditionally, to hear them "talking back" when one of us tells them to " Go to bed", it is priceless. Thank You Cheryl for doing such a good job with your breeding services. The Reades Tucson We found Boxermompupsaz. Cheryl bent over backwards to give us a few chances to meet our new family member before we brought her home. We had to drive a few hours to get there and were thankful for that. Our care package was a fun "treat" to go through too. Charles's personality?? I can't say enough about her. She is our second dog with our other boy being "not so friendly to other pups BIG dog", Charlie walked in and took his heart along with his toys, but somehow knows how to back off when she needs to. She is smart, loves to please and the most adorable dog we have EVER seen! Apart from out first born boy of course! Thank you Cheryl. We recommend Boxermom to the moon and back! Angela A. Tucson Thank you so much for our beautiful sweet and snuggly little Lily. We are so grateful to have met you and been given the opportunity to adopt her. She is adapting nicely to her new home, but misses her mama, brothers, sisters and of course you! She's got quite the personality. We will keep in touch and share your site with our friends, family and neighbors who are interested in boxer pups. I can't thank you enough for the experience and being so kind and helpful during this whole process. Best of luck to you always. Jill C. Phoenix Follow Us. We are also licensed and inspected by the state and USDA. Our Boxers are bred for intelligence, conformation, health, and socialability. There many champions in the ancestry of our Boxers. Trojan is OFA certified for his hips, elbows, heart and, thyroid. Our males are OFA certified against hip displacia. Romeo and Romeo's sire are OFA certified. Zaccur is OFA certified. Harley was OFA certified, which is a sires of many of our females. Romeo's Grand sire was a champion. The older female are OFA certified for their heart and thyroid. The puppies come with a 1 year health guarantee for genetic defects. All are included in the price of your puppy. Puppies are ready to go to their new homes at 8 weeks of age. All puppies will have their tails cropped and dew claws removed. They will be current on shots and dewormings. If a deposit is being send in the mail, the puppy is marked as pending sale. When the deposit arrives the puppy is marked an sold. If the payment does not arrive in a week, the puppy will be placed back for sale. Paypal is available for payment. More pictures of the puppies are available on request. Leah was a very good mama. She had plenty of milk, and was very attentive to cleaning the pups and attentive to their little grunts and squeals. Our goal this week was to get Leah comfortable with us handling her puppies and convincing her to go leave them to outside to the bathroom. Several times I picked her up and carried her out the door,only to have her look through the screen window three minutes later with a look of fear that her babies were going to be harmed in some fashion. Leah continued to get a raw egg added to her food after whelping, just like she did during the end of gestation when we gradually changed her over to the high protein puppy food her pups would be eating. Like normal dogs, she ate very little leading up to labor and very little for first few days after whelping. This is why allowing the mother dog to eat and consume the puppy sacs and placenta of each pup, yes it sounds gross, but is natural and normal and necessary for protein and energy supplementation. I was more worried about her drinking enough water so she would produce enough milk, so several times a day I would place the bowl of water right under her nose and she would drink about a cup at a time. It took about two days before she would stand up and go to the edge of her whelping pool to eat and drink the food I placed in her elevated food dish. Pet Feeder Feeding Tray Removable 8 Although I immediately announced the arrival of our puppies on Facebook and the Boxer forum we restricted visitors to just immediate family the first week. With the exception of my own kids when they were babies, there is very little that is cuter and and more relaxing than holding and cuddling a puppy. I totally believe in imprinting and socializing puppies early, starting at day one. This accomplishes a few things, our scent is on each pup, thus they got used to our smell and Leah got used to our smell on them and this in turn I believe made her more relaxed. After about four days we could sit back in a chair in the room and cuddle a puppy while Leah stayed with the rest of her litter in the whelping pool. We were always careful in the early stages to only hold one to two pups at a time and made sure each pup got held an equal amount, although everyone in the house had a favorite. More Dog Stories by James Herriot Leah had seen him for routine vaccination, dewormings and her pre-breeding examination. We kept in communication with him in regards to the breeding date and expected whelping date and scheduled an appointment the Saturday morning of Leahs due date for her postpartum exam, puppy exams, dock their tails and have dewclaws removed. We worried how Leah would react, so the puppies first car trip was done with purpose and with a plan. Firs,t let Leah out to go to the bathroom. Second, have a small box with a heated rice bag under a blanket and close the top. Third, carry the puppy box into the back seat of the car where Leah would follow. This worked like a dream, the warmth kept the puppies comfortable and I would occasionally lift the lid to reassure Leah her puppies were fine. Why Dock Boxer Tails Boxer pups get their tails docked and dewclaws removed at three days of age. Boxers have had their tails docked for over a hundred years. Therefore breeders cannot tell by looking at a dog if they have a strong hefty tail, or a skinny very long weak tail. We arrived at the vets and I brought the puppies into the exam room and Leah stayed in the waiting room with my husband. I expected the puppy squealing to make her very anxious and worried. However everything was over and done in minutes with Leah being very calm and relaxed. Two stitches in their tail, then turned them over for dewclaw removal and back in the warm box they went. Only two pups let out an initial squeal and all were asleep by the time Mama came in 10 minutes later. She had lost about 5 lbs from her initial breeding weight and had a low-grade fever, so he gave her a general antibiotic as a precaution, gave her a Vitamin B shot and about a dozen cans of canned dog food to stimulate her appetite. He asked about her discharge, the rate of labor, how she was nursing, and examined her teats for mastitis or infection. This was a lesson in trust and one more important step in the puppy maturation process. After this Leah was more willing to go outside and leave her pups, and by day seven she was willingly getting up and going out. Stayed tuned for the next article and week two of a puppy adventures where they open their eyes. Raising Boxer Puppies.

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It can be present at birth due to genetic defects or develop over time as part of aging. Deafness can also be present in one ear unilateral deafness or in both ears bilateral deafness. Deafness is also common in Merle French Bulldogs as well, and we recommend staying away from breeders that offer merle French Bulldogs due to the other various genetic defects that are associated with the merle gene. The Role of Color in Hearing You may be wondering why the color of the coat can affect hearing. A lack of pigment cells The reason for this is that the piebald gene is associated with a lack of pigment cells which give the appearance of their coats. This affects the small hairs in the ear responsible for hearing There are small hairs in the inner ear that are called cilia, and when there is an extreme lack of pigment cells, the cilia may not develop properly, resulting in deafness. Be sure to ask your breeder about BAER testing If you are interested in a predominantly white French Bulldog or are just concerned about the possibility of your new puppy being deaf, be sure to ask your breeder about performing a BAER test. Causes of Deafness Congenital deafness present at birth Presbycusis acquired hearing loss Ototoxicity Loss of hearing due to medication Head trauma. This guide will be the most beneficial for people that; a are considering the adoption of a deaf dog. If you are in any of the categories above this article is absolutely for you. We understand this article is long, however, we have a lot to say on the subject matter and great tips that can help many dog owners and their pets. This will not be an article that we research the subject and put together some scientific formula. This is based on our lives and true experiences. The breeder promised my new blue baby boy was completely healthy. I was provided with all his documents and records. I did not have any concerns for any health issues at that point nor did I have any idea he was deaf. I took my tiny Frenchie puppy home and knew his name would be Bluenjy. Many people ask on a daily basis how I came up with this name. After all he is the only one in the world with this name. I knew instantly his name was meant to be Bluenjy Blue and Benji combined. I chose a unique name because I knew he was unique from the moment I saw him. There was something so special about him and I wasn't wrong. I fell in love instantly like nothing I have ever imagined. I never understood why my Frenchie would stalk me everywhere and not leave my sight. French Bulldogs are known to love being with their human and always chasing them everywhere but there was an extra clinginess I didn't understand. It was extra then when he was just a puppy and it is extra now hasn't changed. When I'm in bed Bluenjy is laying besides me when I go to the kitchen he is right behind me, when I go to the bathroom yes, you guessed it he is there too. No matter where I go he will always be my shadow. Now there is only one exception that he doesn't follow me, that's only when he falls asleep and can't feel my steps on the floor. I usually have to sneak out of the room with light feet because I don't want to wake him up when he is sleeping but he is so in tuned with me he usually does. You thought a normal Frenchie is clingy? You clearly never met mine and I wouldn't change it for the world. He doesn't really greet other household members whenever they come home the same that he does with me. I have had dogs my whole life, I don't recall ever experiencing that with any other dog. I have to make the same point I made in the section above I don't believe it is a Frenchie breed characteristic. Yes, Bluenjy is a Frenchie but I believe both his breed and deafness contributed to him choosing one person who can be his guide in life. I put myself in his position and the way I see it is following 2 people can be confusing. Following one is a lot simpler from his point of view. It is no secret of how much I love Bluenjy however, a lot of owners love their dogs and sometimes they are not favored. So why did Bluenjy choose me to be the one person whom he can count on the most? Is it the unconditional love that I give him? Is it that I held him first when he was 8 weeks old? Is it him being in my lap on the first car ride home tmi next or me being the first person he threw up on? Or is it cause I gave him his first bath? Tried to potty him and teaching him tricks? Is it the funny videos and moments we shared together? As I reflect back we have done everything together from the very first day he came home. It is no wonder or coincidence I am his go to human. He trusts me and I trust him completely and the bond we share is like no other. I attributed them to him being stubborn even though Bluenjy is a people's' pleaser I thought maybe its puppy hood, maybe its his breed, maybe he had "selective hearing" and just did what I asked whenever he felt like doing it. Maybe I was in denial all together. I thought there was no way he is deaf, his breeder would surly inform me if he was. I needed a LOT of red flags before I said that's it this Frenchie can't hear and I need to have his hearing checked at his vet. Took extra long to wake him up. Startle - Bluenjy would jump when someone touched him on the back without seeing them prior to touching. Eye contact - Bluenjy needed my eye contact all the time to know what I wanted. Hand signals - Bluenjy would often look at my hands to see what I am suggesting. Absolutely no head tilting — movement of the ears or anything that suggests those bat ears are nothing but accessories on his head. No barking - this could be different from dog to dog. Bluenjy rarely ever barks. I did train him to bark on demand when he was a puppy and it was extremely difficult to teach him to bark. I sat with him as a puppy showing him the motion of barking with my mouth everyday until he finally understood what I even asked him to do. Everything already mentioned above - extra clinginess. I could hear the nails on the wood floor and the panic in his breathing I had to go downstairs to get him as he didn't know where I was. Bluenjy's back was towards me and he was looking elsewhere, I called him multiple times over and over louder and louder he didn't hear me at all and he was just 2 feet away from me. I finally had to walk in front of him so he would see me. This incident was the first time I knew something was really wrong If your dog is exhibiting any of the above or similar signs don't hesitate call your vet and get your dog's hearing checked. It will save you and your Frenchie a lot of frustration. I discovered my French Bulldog was deaf after he was a year old. We navigated life just fine before I even knew he was deaf, however, knowing it made everything make sense and validated so many scenarios. I was finally able to piece everything together and was able to be sensitive and understanding of his hidden disability. You do not want to ever wake up a deaf dog with a touch ever. We have shared this waking up video with our followers some time ago and this is the best method of waking up Bluenjy. In this video I show my method of waking up my Frenchie. I start with light taps on the floor next to him and calling his name. They can still feel vibrations when you speak so I always do so. Slowly increase the tapping and become louder as you go. This always works like a charm. You don't ever want to wake up a deaf dog abruptly. If your dog doesn't wake up immediately take your time and increase the taps. This is the absolutely the best method to wake deaf dogs up. Do not touch the dog whatsoever. Any abrupt movement could cause panic anxiety or worse, a heart attack. When people see your dog have a disability they would be more mindful in regards to touching your Frenchie without your consent. When purchasing a collar always keep in mind to get one with breakaway buckle. A breakaway collar for Frenchies would ensure the proper fit and that your dog is safe in extreme situations. Breakaway buckles are especially designed for pets to prevent strangulation. Our innovative harness with D ring in the front will provide all the comfort a deaf Frenchie needs. It helped our dog and we're sure our Health Harness will help yours too. Since you can't tell your Frenchie "come here" when he is deaf you simply lead them with the front D ring leash attachment harness where you need to go. A simple yet safe concept that allows for no pull, no choke walk. We usually put his food away from the others. In Frenchie meet ups we make sure no one brings out food and if we are giving treats, Leonard is given his treats separately from the others to make sure everyone is safe. Leonard's mom have taken her experience with her own deaf Frenchie applied and modified their lifestyle to keep everyone safe. Even though they can't hear the bell they will learn to get your attention that way. I believe the advice from Maude's mom is incredibly important. To the average person it doesn't make sense to train a deaf Frenchie with a bell because they can't hear, however, if you take a closer deeper thought into this you will realize that a bell replaces a bark in a regular dog that can hear. We already mentioned above that deaf dogs rarely bark and barking is a big part of dog communication so a bell makes a lot of sense. Instead of barking and telling you when they need to go potty they can giggle the bell. Also you can easily locate a pet with a bell which is another plus. Pintsizedbuffalo - I would recommend hand signals. They learn and adjust just like any other dog. You would have to train a dog that can hear so it shouldn't be any different for a deaf Frenchie. We couldn't agree with the above statement more. We would like to thank all three fellow deaf Frenchie mamas for their input time and advice in the hope of helping others, educating and learning. I was training Bluenjy with hand signals before even knowing he was deaf. To my surprise it was very easy and he was getting things so fast. With hand signals you have to be consistent. Do the same signal every time you want your do to do the same thing and reward when your dog does it. Dogs that are congenitally deaf since birth do not realize they can't hear, they were like that from the very first day so they don't understand they have a disability. Dogs that are born with this disability are resilient and go through life with the best attitude and without a worry. Dogs that were not born deaf have a harder adjustment and could show frustration or anger at first. They know they were able to hear once and that makes things a little more challenging especially if you have to start re-training your dog in hand signals at an old age. We recommend training your dog with verbal commands as well as hand signals whether your dog hears or not. This will be very helpful in the case that your dog ever becomes deaf one day. I find myself having to explain to people my dog is not growling this is just how he breaths. When a dog is deaf they can at times be extra loud because they can't hear themselves. My Frenchie Bluenjy is extra loud when he eats, gets excited, plays licks his paws sleep or pretty much anything else. This is unrelated to his BOAS which he had the surgery for he will always be loud just because he can't hear his own self and that is totally normal for us. My French Bulldog does not get a hint when another dog is growling at him. He will keep on going towards the dog in a playful manner even though the other dog clearly wants nothing to do with him. This is where your instinct should kick in as a parent. If you see a dangerous situation approaching please remove your dog from that environment as soon as possible. Not everyone will ask you before reaching their hands towards your dog, however, be adamant and be your dog's protective. Have your dog close to you to avoid people touching and scaring your dog. If a person asks first you can tell them your dog is deaf and they need to put their hands for your dog to smell first then it would be safe to pet. There will be times a deaf dog will be confused and that is perfectly normal. Be patient and loving to your pet. Your dog is probably confused in that moment. Give them plenty of love every single day, they will appreciate it and feel secure. We always like to look at the bright side of things, most optimistic people do and I am one of those. Here are some positive things in relation to a deaf dog: A deaf dog will usually be talented in another area or develop what I call the 6th sense. For my dog it was no different. He developed an extraordinary ability to hold things with his paws and he is well known for that talent. He has been doing that since he was a baby and was not trained to do so. I discovered he has this ability after holding him like a baby in my arms and he would try to reach out to things I was holding and my hands. I believe every deaf dog has a special ability or talent to compensate for the hearing impairment. Fireworks will never scare your dog and deaf dogs can handle those situations much better than dogs that can hear them. Deaf dogs are incredible to say the least. Yes, you would have to do certain things differently but the bond you will share is like no other. Certain breeders euthanize a puppy if is found to be bilaterally deaf. Their reasoning for choosing euthanasia : deaf dogs are challenging to train, get hit by cars and they can snap or startle easily when sleeping or eating. In our opinion these are all great excuses to not give a dog a chance at life because the breeder wants a cleaner name. There are many people who would love to adopt care and love a deaf dog. They are special unique and deserve to be loved just like any other dog. Start in a fully fenced area to ensure safety and slowly teach your dog to check in with you every couple of minutes. Also use the same area to teach your dog to walk besides you. When you adopt a dog into your family there will be no manual that comes along with the dog. It is all a learning experience and we get better over time just like anything else in life. We should all aspire to learn evolve and get more educated on how to be the best pet parent we can be. Whether your dog is deaf, blind or has another disability they all deserve the best life they can have with unconditional love. Please let us know below if we forgot to mention anything, you have a question or simply want to share your story. Unless distracted for awhile. Please give me guidance of raising this puppy as I feel I may not be best owner and should give it new home : Jasper cell, I am on whats app as well. High very high in blue eye-piebald Frenchies Cream Albino very uncommon in Frenchies Moderate to High The estimated risk of French Bulldogs of certain coat colors being deaf is based on the correlation between the genes for certain coat colors also being linked to congenital sensorineural deafness. For merle and piebald coat colors, the presence of blue eyes is closely correlated with congenital sensorineural deafness. The type of deafness associated with coat color is classified as congenital sensorineural, meaning that the deafness is caused by a genetically inherited trait and causes permanent loss of the ability of the nerves and inner ear structures to pick up and convey auditory stimuli. In normal puppies, the ear canals open up around days of age, but the nerves of the auditory system are not fully developed until three months of age. Puppies with coat color-liked congenital deafness are not deaf from birth but lose their ability to hear around weeks of age. Therefore, between the age of days the age at which the ear canals open and three weeks, the puppy may appear to have normal hearing for its age keeping in mind that hearing continues to mature until three months of age. In puppies with congenital sensorineural deafness, the hairs linked to the pigment-producing cell in the inner ear start to degenerate, causing permanent hearing loss. In most cases, it is due to the genes for lack of pigment that results in white fur also being linked to the lack of growth of the tiny neural hairs in the inner ear that helps to pick up sound waves and relay them to the nerves. In puppies suffering from congenital sensorineural deafness, the tiny hairs degenerate within the first few weeks of life, causing irreversible hearing loss. Congenital sensorineural deafness does not always affect both ears. In fact, it is more common for only one ear to be affected; however, this is vastly underdiagnosed as deafness in one ear usually goes unnoticed unless a specialized hearing test called a BEAR test is done. Baer tests more details on that below are not done in puppies younger than five weeks due to the loss of hearing mechanism in pups suffering from congenital sensorineural deafness described above. Deafness can only be diagnosed around weeks and is easy to miss as puppies rely on several other sensory cues such as their sight, smell, and vibrations. Deafness in only one ear is near impossible to diagnose without a BEAR test and often goes undiagnosed. However, most owners will quickly realize that their puppy has impaired hearing if both ears are affected. For example, the pup does not startle or wake up in a situation where there is a sudden loud noise or does not come when called. Your vet can test for deafness in each ear separately using BAER, the only reliable way to pick up unilateral one-sided deafness. In a dog with normal hearing, the electrodes will show waves of electrical activity on a graph depicting how auditory nerves pick up on sounds. In deaf dogs, there will be little to no response on the graph, meaning that the nerves did not pick up on any auditory stimuli. Merle And Double Merle Blue-eyed merle Frenchies have a higher likelihood of suffering from congenital sensorineural deafness. The merle coat color is undoubtedly beautiful and unique and has been in high demand over the past few years. A double merle dog is produced when both the mom and the dad carry the merle gene. The gene for merle coat color is simple autosomal dominant, which means that if a dog carries the gene, they will express it. If a pup inherits the gene for merle coat color from both parents, they will often have patches of pure white interspersed with merle and may have blue eyes. Unfortunately, double merle puppies are often deaf, have poor vision, and are sterile. Breeding two dogs that both have merle coats coloring is considered unethical. In dogs where only one of the parents is merle, the likelihood of congenital deafness is slightly lower compared to double merle but increases with the amount of white they have in their coats. In other words, not all white and merle French Bulldogs will be deaf, but the likelihood of congenital sensorineural deafness directly correlates with the amount of white these pups have in their coats. Piebald or Extreme Piebald Piebald coat color is predominantly white with flecks of darker fur. In piebald coat coloring, the base coat color is white with patches of black. The classic example of the piebald pattern is the dalmatian, where white fur is predominant with few patches of black interspersed. The genes for piebald coat color are closely associated with congenital deafness, but the genetics of the piebald gene as it relates to deafness is not as simple to understand as it is for the merle-gene. We do, however know that the degree of piebald correlates with the likelihood of deafness, and thus extreme piebald dogs are more likely to be deaf. The piebald gene may also play a role in the expression of blue eyes in its carriers, and piebald animals with blue eyes are more likely to be deaf than their non-blue-eyed counterparts. Cream Cream-colored Frenchie. Note how the fur on the back is not completely white. Also, note the greyish pigment on the muzzle. This is due to the color dilution gene. The cream coat color in French Bulldogs can be described as slightly lighter than fawn but darker than white. For example, if color dilution genes are expressed, the black coat color will turn out as blue or grey. Similarly, a cream French bulldog may be identified by having a color-diluted nose color such as brown i. The genes coding for color dilution is recessive, meaning that both parents need to carry the gene for some of the pups to have this trait, making the cream coat color one of the rarer French Bulldog color varieties. At this point in time, there is no research pointing to a link between the color dilution genes associated with cream-colored French Bulldogs and deafness. Albino An albino Great Dane. Note the pink nose and lack of pigment around the eyes. Also, note how the eyes are abnormally small and recessed in the eye sockets. This is called microphthalmos and is also linked with the gene for albinism. Luckily, albinism is extremely rare in French Bulldogs. Albinism occurs when an animal or human lacks any pigment cells. You can usually identify an albino dog by light-colored eyes, pink eyelids, and pink paw pads. Their skin will have a distinct pinkish tone with white fur as there is no melanin pigment to camouflage the pinkish color of blood vessels in the skin. There are different types of albinism in which various tissues lack the pigment-producing cells, melanocytes. Most but not all types of albinism correlate with congenital deafness. Luckily, albinism is exceptionally uncommon in French Bulldogs. If the puppy has sensorineural deafness due to inheriting CSD-linked coat-color genes from both parents or where one parent is deaf, it is considered unethical breeding, and you should avoid buying from such breeders. However, if the deafness is due to an unrelated non-genetic cause such as an ototoxic drug medicine causing damage to the ears , or hypoxia during birth, you may decide to adopt such a puppy depending on whether you are able and willing to accommodate the unique needs of a deaf dog. According to ethical breeding guidelines, all pups from a litter with one or more deaf pups should not be used for breeding. Therefore, deaf animals and animals known to possibly carry genes associated with deafness should not be allowed to breed. Dogs that are deaf are at increased risk for injury or deaf due to undetected dangers such as cars. In addition, deaf dogs are more likely to reflex bite when startled. This is a massive concern in households with young children or other pets. Deaf dogs tend to be more anxious or aggressive due to constantly being prone to startle. They may also be more inclined d to attack unfamiliar humans or animals. Deaf dogs are also very difficult to train and, unfortunately, often end up in animal shelters due to behavior problems associated with deafness. All the abovementioned factors are highly personality-dependent, and it is impossible to tell which deaf Frenchies will develop these unwanted behaviors. Frankly speaking, you will be opening yourself up to an emotional rollercoaster ride when adopting a deaf French Bulldog. You may find the reward of being able to provide a disabled dog with a happy home. Still, you may likely also face a situation where an anxious or aggressive dog puts you in a position where you will have to choose between your pup and the safety of your children. A deaf French Bulldog is definitely not recommended for a first-time dog owner. On the flip side, there are many happy stories of deaf animals and their owners learning to communicate by non-auditory cues. For example, flashing porch lights when their owner is calling them in in the evening or by using a collar that can vibrate. If you decide to adopt a deaf French Bulldog, it is crucial to prevent accidental breeding of your pup and rather have them sterilized. The French Bulldog gene pool is already a dire mess of inbreeding and subsequently contains an unethically high prevalence of genetic disorders. Conclusion The popularity of specific coat colors and the subsequently high price that people are willing to pay for these animals do not deter breeders from further deteriorating an already decrepit French Bulldog gene pool. Frenchies are rising in popularity due to their distinctively cute appearance and warm personalities. But, believe it or not, numerous data sets show that French Bulldogs are arguably the least healthy dog breed worldwide. As a vet, having had to deal with countless French Bulldogs who have a poor quality of life due to the way we have bred them to be, I am urging you to carefully consider your options before deciding to buy a French Bulldog. You will be far better off with a non-brachycephalic breed. You will not only save thousands on vet bills, but you will also likely have a dog who lives a longer, healthier life. You might also find the following articles insightful:. Pin 0 Shares Today I wanted to talk about French Bulldog hearing problems, why they happen, how Frenchies can lose their hearing, plus how some will even be born with hearing issues. I have written some notes on how you can take care of a deaf Frenchie towards the end of this page. But firstly, let me answer a few of the most common questions first in a more concise format. Do French Bulldogs have hearing problems? White French Bulldogs are more prone to hearing issues due to a genetic trait which will be present from 6 weeks old. Just like other dogs, Frenchies can get hard of hearing in later life too. How to tell if French Bulldog is deaf? With older dogs you can also diagnose hard of hearing by squeezing squeaky toys and illicting no reaction. What causes deafness in Frenchies? There are two main reasons why your French Bulldog has hearing problems. The first one is congenital deafness from birth. This is common in breeds which have the extreme piebald gene, particularly dogs with white fur. I will explain more about the French Bulldog deafness gene in the next section. The second reason why your French Bulldog is deaf could simply be down to age or illness. Hearing problems are common in older dogs, just like us humans can develop deafness in our own later years. Age-related deafness or hearing loss relating to illness can occur due to: Ear infections and ear canal disease. Nerves degenerating in old age. Tumours or cancers in the ear. Trauma to the ear or exposure to loud noises. Adverse reactions to medications to remedy other illnesses. The French Bulldog deafness gene Congenital deafness can appear in French Bulldogs who have white pigmentation in their coat. Scientists have discovered that dogs with white in their fur are more likely to suffer with hearing problems from birth. French Bulldog hearing problems are more common in white Frenchies, with the deafness developing in the first month of their life. Hearing problems can also be inherited from abnormal genes in the parental chain. French Bulldog coat colors which have the highest risk of hearing problems are: White haired. Piebald irregular patches of color, usually white and black. Roan white or gray hairs mixed through the fur. Merle desaturated colors, especially where blacks become greys or blues. Do French Bulldogs have good hearing? However, as a general rule of thumb, French Bulldogs do have good hearing. Dog breeds with upright ears hear much better than those with floppy ears. The placement and size, plus the ability to swivel the ears lets Frenchies hear better than many other dogs. What about French Bulldog selective hearing? The reason this is commented about so much is due to the stubborn nature of Frenchies; they can be difficult to train, and this sometimes seems like they have selective hearing! Are all white French Bulldogs deaf? Whilst dogs with white fur or piebald coats are more at risk from hearing loss in one or both ears, not all white Frenchies will be affected. Another study I found reported that hearing loss in just one ear had a .If you are thinking about buying a white French Bulldog puppy, then I would recommend that you request a hearing test. This can be done with puppies as young as 6 weeks old. Whilst being deaf in one ear should not put you off from getting a dog, complete hearing loss will be a challenge. Deaf dogs demand a lot of care and attention as their quality of life can be severely impacted. However, if you genuinely believe your French Bulldog is deaf and hard of hearing, here are some things you can do to diagnose the issue before going to the vets. Your Frenchie seems to be unresponsive to everyday life around him. Your Frenchie does not respond to his name being called. Your Frenchie will often shake his head due to ear pain. Your Frenchie has a nasty smelling discharge from both or one ear. Your Frenchie scratching his ears more than usual read more about this. Whilst they may give an indication, they should not be relied on to tell if a French Bulldog is deaf; you need to arrange a proper hearing test. It uses specialist hearing test equipment that is only available in a few select veterinarian practices. At this age, congenital deafness will have matured into a hearing loss condition. Both ears will be tested for hearing loss, the end result being a printed report with a graph and the hearing test results listed on it. The vet will explain whether this means your French Bulldog is deaf or has partial hearing loss. There are three main categories of hearing loss that are reported on: Bilateral Affected: the French Bulldog is completely deaf in both ears. Unilateral Affected: the Frenchie Bulldog is deaf in only one ear. Unaffected: the French Bulldog has hearing in both ears. Hearing tests for older Frenchies For older French Bulldogs with hearing issues there is a different hearing test available called the Threshold test. It still uses the BAER machine but instead tests volumes of frequency — very similar to a human hearing test in fact. Just like with the BAER testing, you will receive a printout and report which shows whether your French Bulldog is losing hearing or not. Hearing loss is very common in older dogs, but there are ways in which you can care for a French Bulldog with deafness which I will explain further down. Should you buy a deaf French Bulldog? Owning a completely deaf Frenchie will come with a lot of challenges. Deaf dogs are harder to train, will startle easier, and will have problems socialising with other dogs and your own household. Your Frenchie could be at risk when out in public places. Your Frenchie will be very hard to train. Your Frenchie might respond better to vibration rather than audio. Your Frenchie might have to learn to respond to body language instead. If you are buying from a breeder then ask for proof of a hearing test before you purchase. If you yourself are a Frenchie breeder, have both the male and female tested before breeding. This will reduce the risk of congenital French Bulldog deafness gene being passed down to the litter. Deaf Frenchies might find it hard to socialise with other dogs. How to care for a deaf French Bulldog If you do buy a deaf French Bulldog puppy or have an older dog who goes on to develop hearing problems then here are a few tips. You can buy longer leads for this purpose. Use your hands to signal to them and facial expressions. You can also use light or vibration, such as talking in a deeper voice. Train him to respond to touch signals. Keep them in a fenced off area in your yard or garden to prevent him from wandering off. Use a flashlight or a laser pen to get his attention and respond to you. Stomp your feet on the floor when you enter the room so not to startle him. Attach a note to his collar that says he is deaf in case he gets lost. Can you get dog hearing aids? Yes, there are dog hearing aids available. Many dogs will struggle to interpret the noise and they will need extensive training to use the device. What other breeds of dog are prone to deafness? Aside from French Bulldogs, hearing loss is also very prevalent and common in the following breeds. American Bulldog. Common health problems in French Bulldogs October 1, The French bulldog is a popular breed known for its large eyes, perky ears, and playful personality. Like many purebred dogs, they are prone to a few health problems of which owners should be aware. The French bulldog is a popular breed known for its large eyes, perky ears, and playful personality. Frenchies are gregarious, energetic animals that love people and get along well with other pets. But like many purebred dogs, they are prone to a few health problems of which owners should be aware. The list of potential allergens is long and can include inhaled allergens such as tree and grass pollen, mold spores, dust, feathers, smoke, and perfumes , contact allergens such as detergents, fabrics, cleaning products, and shampoos , and some foods or medicines. Signs that your French bulldog may have an allergy include itchy or irritated skin , runny eyes, sneezing, vomiting, diarrhea, snoring from throat inflammation , and swollen paws. Commonly known as pinkeye, conjunctivitis is an inflammation of the outer layer of the eyeball and is common in both humans and pets. Frenchies are particularly prone to pinkeye, which often causes red or swollen-looking eyes and a sticky discharge from the affected area. Pinkeye could be caused by environmental irritants, chronic dry eye, or by a more serious underlying condition such as canine distemper. If your Frenchie shows symptoms of pinkeye, a visit to the vet is recommended. If bacterial infection is suspected, your vet can prescribe antibiotics, or if an allergy is the suspected cause, your vet can help identify the allergen responsible. French bulldogs are at greater risk for deafness than other breeds. Hearing loss may be complete, starting from birth, or may develop gradually. If you suspect your Frenchie is suffering from congenital deafness, your vet can perform something called a brainstem auditory evoked response BAER test. The BAER test is a quick min noninvasive test that uses electrodes to evaluate the ear canal, inner ear, and cranial nerve and brainstem function. As in humans, some instances of deafness in dogs may be addressed using cochlear implants. If your Frenchie is diagnosed with congenital deafness, ask your vet about available treatment options. Hip Dysplasia. Another condition common in French bulldogs is hip dysplasia—a condition in which the ball-and-socket joints of the hips are improperly formed, resulting in a laxness in the tendons holding the femur in place. Hip dysplasia is progressive , and if untreated can lead to decreased mobility, inability to jump or climb stairs, reluctance to exercise, and difficulty standing. Treatment for hip dysplasia may include physical therapy and aquatherapy, as well as dietary changes aimed at controlling obesity. If you suspect that your Frenchie is suffering from hip dysplasia, see your vet for a complete evaluation and advice on treatment options. In severe cases, surgery to repair or replace the hip joint itself may be necessary. Heat Stress. Like several snub-nosed breeds , French bulldogs are prone to heat exhaustion. Snub-nosed breeds like the Frenchie and the Pug typically have a harder time breathing and regulating body temperature than do their long-snouted relatives. For this reason, extra caution should be taken not to expose your animal to prolonged periods of extreme heat. Never leave your pet in a hot car, and if you plan to be outdoors with your pet, always provide a place with ample shade and water for your animal to relax. Signs of heat stress include excessive panting, blue or bright red gums, vomiting, diarrhea, and in severe cases, convulsions. If your pet displays any of these symptoms, get your animal to a cool place and call your vet at once. Here are tips on safely exercising your flat-faced dog. Cecily Kellogg is a pet lover who definitely has crazy cat lady leanings. Her pets are all shelter rescues, including the dog, who is scared of the cats. She spent eight years working as a Veterinary Technician before becoming a writer. Today she writes all over the web, including here at Figo. Your Pet's Type.

The first step is to fill out the puppy application. Once I receive your application, I will contact you by phone with all the details. These litters are going to be exceptional. Super sweet temperaments with low to non shedding coats!! We are a professional family breeder of the highest quality Multigenerational Australian Labradoodle Puppies. Australian Labradoodles are intelligent, low to non shedding, hypoallergenic, and very family friendly and of course beautiful!! We have both Australian multi gen lines and new American multi gen lines which increases genetic diversity. All of our breeding dogs have gone through all the required health testing for breeding. Here at Midwest Labradoodle our mission is to educate prospective adoptive parents and to match those who qualify with the very best quality Australian Labradoodles available. The choice you make in your adoption is very important and we understand that. Education is the key to making an informed decision. Please feel free to Contact us and we will be happy to go over every step of our program with you. It is an amazing and fun journey that starts at conception! Click here to fill out our puppy application: P uppy Application The application is the very first step to this amazing journey! Once we receive your application, we will contact you by phone with details regarding our upcoming litters! What are our customers saying about us? Laddie with his new Mommy: Laddie as a puppy…. We raise high-quality Mini Labradoodles as well as a few other breeds. We also have partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini labradoodle pups that meet our strict genetic criteria and testing. So we usually have a good selection of very high-quality puppies. View Our Available Puppies! F1B Mini Labradoodle Puppies are a second-generation cross or hybrid. The father is a Mini Poodle and the mother is an F1 Labradoodle. The F1B Minature Labradoodles usually have soft hair that is usually wavy or curly. Thes puppies are considered semi-hypoallergenic since they shed minimally. These puppies can be a good fit if a person that has mild pet allergies. Once F1B Mini Labradoodles reach 6 months old they require to be groomed once every 8 weeks or so to keep their fur healthy and to stop matting. Adult F1B Mini labradoodle dogs range in size from 14 inches in height and pounds in weight. The average life span is typically years of age. The F1BB puppies usually have curlier coats and will be totally hypoallergenic. Once the F1BB pup is 6 months they will need regular grooming every 6 to 8 weeks. F1BB Puppies are usually slightly smaller than F1B puppies and range from 12 inches in height and pounds in weight. Mini Labradoodles are known for their intelligence and the ability to be trained very easily. They make amazing family pets and love to participate in family activities like swimming, hiking, camping or just playing tag in the yard. This breed is also a good choice for people who live in apartments as long as they get at least minutes of exercise a day. So if you live near Cross Plains Wisconsin and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Labradoodle puppy that can be delivered to you then check out our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are some Mini Labradoodle pups that have been adopted.

Calm older dogs are good for this one. Most importantly for German Shepherd puppies, it will give you a chance to work with them around other people, and different dogs from a young age. Settle on a mat German Shepherds are incredibly curious, which can make it difficult for them to relax while out and about. Leash walking — no one wants a large breed of dog pulling them down the street, so be sure you teach loose lead walking and how about some heelwork too? Recall games — Play a game of tennis with your pooch! Calling them from person to person with treats on either side. Get started with grooming and brushing sensitive areas — In long-haired German Shepherds, this is typically the case with the face, legs, and ears, which become tangled the most and may hurt when brushed. Remember to brush carefully, do a little bit of brushing on a sensitive area while feeding them treats or letting them have a lickimat, and then brush an easier to brush area. For socialisation, start working on items that are vital to your lifestyle this week, such as if you have a horse and want your puppy to be comfortable with horses, or if you enjoy sailing, having them near water will be important to you. Getting your puppy exposed to new experiences early on can help them accept them much more easily. Socialization exercises to do this week Training to do this week Husbandry Tasks to do this week — Go to the pub — you deserve it! Remember that settle training you did before, take your mat and get your German Shepherd puppy to settle on it with a nice stuffed kong. Alone training: increasing time alone is important for your puppy. It gives them essential coping skills. Recall — Practise this outside, using a lead, and lots of rewards. Lead walking — Take this outside. Make sure you keep a strong pace going, since German Shepherds enjoy walking quickly, and praise often to keep your puppy interested. Pretend Nail Clips — simply holding a claw, pretending to clip , and rewarding your puppy with a treat is enough. Following on walks — Bring special toys, like the Tug-E-Nuff Pocket tugger, with you on walks to ensure your German Shepherd puppy enjoys hanging out with you. Playing with them will make you irresistible! Week 7 — Training your German Shepherd puppy The 7-week itch! Nah not really. I bet your German Shepherd puppy is doing wonderfully and growing rapidly! Tick 3 things off your personal socialisation checklist — How about taking your German Shepherd to a city farm, letting them watch from afar and rewarding them for being such a calm puppy? Teach your German Shepherd puppy to stay — this will be a great one to show off at the park, trust us. So, first, take a walk with a dog that your German Shepherd puppy has already met. At first, it may be difficult for your puppy not to get distracted, so keep the rewards coming and try to keep them interested in you, rather than the other dog! Recall — off the lead Make sure you do this in a secure and confined area and bring plenty of smelly treats, a fun toy to play with, and your silly high-pitched voice so you can call your German Shepherd puppy back regularly. Remember, German Shepherds enjoy learning! Tick 3 things off your personal socialisation checklist — maybe take your German Shepherd for a swimming lesson? Practice exercises in different locations — how about a train station, or in a shopping centre or mall? Teach a hand target — This is a favourite among pups and their owners. Hand Targeting or touching is the foundation for additional trick behaviours like leg weaving and closing doors. Introducing nose work to your puppy — We mean it when we say your German Shepherd puppy has a better nose than you! Play a game of hide and seek with their favourite toy to bring out those excellent search skills. Looking for more great puppy training tips? Check out our overview of when to start teaching your puppy anything , next. It will be fun they said. We go the extra mile for you. If you want a stress free puppy experience, get this downloaded! Worth every single penny! This app is very helpful. It helps you to understand and gives you a path to follow. The coaching support is excellent and super speedy. Download the app now. For serious owners only: If you want to master potty training, stop jumping, and everything a new dog owner needs to teach their dog, check out The Ultimate Puppy Training Bundle by SpiritDog. When should I start training my GSD puppy? You can start training your German Shepherd puppies as early as they are 8 weeks old. Crate training and potty training are the very basic skills your puppy will need once she gets home. You can start right away when she comes home. How is it different to train German Shepherds? German Shepherds are very intelligent and they learn fast. This makes training very easy. Many GSDs are play-motivated in addition to food-motivated, which makes it very easy to train new behaviors with a toy or ball as the reward. Timing is VERY important If you want to reward your puppy for doing the right thing, you must do it right after she exhibits the desired behavior. It is therefore extremely important to have your reward treat or ball ready in your pocket so you can give it to your pup immediately. Rule of thumb: Keep training sessions short After all, your puppy weeks old is still a young child at this age. She has a limited attention span and may get distracted easily. It is suggested that you train your puppy the same trick several times a day, repeating times in each session, preferably minutes each time even shorter sessions puppies. Your pup will quickly learn what she needs to do to please you. Voice Always praise your puppy with a lively and happy voice when she does something right. Treats Treats are essential when it comes to training a dog. It works especially well with food-motivated puppies. Playing or Petting If your dog is not food-motivated, you can reward them with their favorite toy or petting as an alternative. When you first started, you may need to try on different treats based to see which one your pup likes. The treats should be in bite-size and easy for your pup to chew. Cheese cubes, cooked chicken, or small bread cubes are quite popular with young puppies. To further motivate your pup, you may also like to have different kinds of treats in one training session. This will keep your puppy looking for more. What to Expect? Not only will these training sessions prepare your puppy to exhibit the desired manner, you will also take advantage of the time spent bonding with her. The more you practice with your puppy, the better and faster your puppy will learn. There will be accidents and at times your puppy may just turn around from you. After all, she is only a baby, you need to give her love and patience. Are you ready? Table of Content.

As a result of its genetic makeup as a cross between two dog breeds and pups may have an ultimate size that is difficult to predict. These puppies are enormous and develop quickly, so you may be wondering how much to feed a Goldendoodle puppy. What is the recommended daily amount of food for a Goldendoodle puppy? Most Goldendoodle pups need to be fed anywhere from 2 to 4 times a day, with each feeding consisting of around a third of a cup to as much as four cups of food, although this varies greatly with age and size, and type. Puppies develop rapidly, thus their dietary needs, including the amount and frequency of their meals, evolve with them. Keep in mind that this is not a question with a universally correct answer. Also remember that Miniature, medium, and standard Goldendoodles will have different feeding needs. Goldendoodle Puppy Feeding Chart There is a lot of nuance involved in feeding a Goldendoodle puppy since their nutritional requirements change with their age, size, and degree of activity. To do so, just divide the weight in pounds by 2. With this method, you may roughly estimate how many calories your Goldendoodle need each day when at rest. Keep in mind that this is only a guideline. They need to be with the mother and the rest of the litter, putting on weight healthily. You should count on them sleeping for the most of the day and moving just for brief periods. The best way to get them adjusted to the new routine is to feed them three to four little meals a day, gradually increasing the quantity and lowering the wetness. You should begin by giving them a quarter to a half cup of a soft, moistened puppy chow every meal. You should modify the dose according to their weight and hunger levels. Reduce the quantity of food at first, and then gradually increase it to three or four small meals per day of dry puppy food. You can bank on them being a lot more self-reliant and inquisitive. Make the necessary adjustments according to their weight and degree of exercise. Give them lots of chances to play and interact with others, and take them on short walks. Goldendoodles are prone to becoming overweight, so watch how much food you give them. Choose a suitable quantity by considering their weight and degree of physical activity and breed size. Keep close track of their weight to determine the appropriate dosage. Make sure they have much to do physically and mentally to keep them from becoming bored and acting out. Learn the basics and begin interacting with others. Keep an eye out for symptoms of separation anxiety in your Goldendoodle. This depends on breed size. Keep up with their education and socializing, and give them plenty of chances to play and exercise. Pay attention to how active they are feeling and feed them appropriately. Never stop encouraging physical activity, intellectual challenge, and social interaction. Make necessary adjustments based on their weight gain or loss. To maintain their health and happiness, provide them frequent opportunities for physical activity, fun, and intellectual challenge. Inspect your Goldendoodle often for indications of joint pain. Taking them to the vet on a regular basis is crucial to maintaining their health. Understanding Goldendoodle Puppy Nutritional Needs Puppies of the goldendoodle breed should be fed a healthy, well-rounded diet to ensure their optimal development and growth. Depending on their age, height, and amount of activity, a Goldendoodle puppy typically needs to 1, calories per day. Keep in mind that there are three different sized Goldendoodles. The smaller dogs would thus consume much less food. They need to eat a balanced diet of nutritious proteins, fats, and complex carbs. Calcium, phosphorus, vitamin D, and omega-3 fatty acids are crucial for the healthy development of Goldendoodle pups. Healthy growth of bones, the immune system, and the brain all depend on these nutrients. To avoid obesity and encourage good digestion, pups should be given three to four modest meals each day rather than one or two big ones. This aids in controlling portion sizes and facilitating proper digestion. Because of their small stomachs, puppies need regular feedings to keep them energized and healthy. As your puppy gets older, you may cut down on the frequency of feedings and boost the amount of each meal. Kibble may aid in dental hygiene by scraping plaque and tartar off the teeth while the puppy eats. Picky eaters could be more enticed by wet food, and pups with dental issues or missing teeth might find it simpler to digest. In addition, you should make sure that the food is formulated for pups and prepared with high-quality components. Switching From Puppy Food To Adult Food Depending on their size and breed, you should transition your Goldendoodle puppy from puppy food to adult food between the ages of 12 and 18 months. You should start with a little quantity of adult food and puppy food mixed together, and then gradually increase the amount of adult food while lowering the amount of puppy food. This ease of adjustment may reduce digestive issues. When a Goldendoodle puppy stops eating, the first thing to do is to rule out any serious health problems. Feeding smaller meals more often, warming the food with water or chicken broth, or trying a new brand or taste of food are all options. Overfeeding, obesity, and gastrointestinal issues are all possible outcomes of free-feeding a Goldendoodle puppy. Because of their tiny stomachs, puppies need frequent feedings to keep them energized and promote their healthy development. Picky eating may be avoided and good eating habits can be established with a regular meal plan. Instead of two big meals, Goldendoodle pups should be fed three or four smaller meals a day. If you decide to free-feed your Goldendoodle puppy, keep careful tabs on how much they are eating so that you may alter their portions as they grow. Medium breed dogs require a high-energy diet throughout their brief growing phase. Prebiotic components improve for good digestion Unique kibble design 2. For a well-balanced diet, including more natural meats dogs love and healthy grains. This puppy food is designed to build strong, lean muscles and improve brain and eye health with taurine. DHA and ARA promote healthy growth and development, while LifeSource Bits provide a perfect combination of antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals to boost the immune system. It also lacks maize, soy, wheat, animal byproducts, and artificial tastes. Antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, for immune system No grains, maize, wheat, soy, meat by-products, or artificial flavors Taurine in the for eyes and brains. Introducing our tailored nutrition for medium breed puppies — a food designed to ensure your puppy receives the right amount of nutrients during their growth period. Divide the total number of calories that your dog will consume in a day into two or three meals. Give him some of these lesser amounts multiple times throughout the course of the day at various intervals. Here is a guide to what you should be feeding your goldendoodle puppy based on its age. During the first five to twelve weeks of their lives, young goldendoodle puppies need to consume at least three and sometimes even more meals every day in order to meet their nutritional needs. In order to accomplish this, you will need to split the total amount of food into three equal portions, using a goldendoodle puppy feeding schedule that is given with their food product, and then feed it to them at a variety of different times throughout the day. As your dog gets older, you should gradually reduce the number of meals it receives each day until you get to twice a day. This transition should take between three and twelve months. Dogs who are at least a year old are considered adults and should be fed in the normal manner of two portions per day. You are going to need to cut their nutritional requirements in half. The hours of seven in the morning, twelve in the middle of the day, and five in the afternoon are often reserved for feeding goldendoodle puppies. If you truly need to make some alterations to your mealtime schedule, it is acceptable for you to opt to give your puppy more than three meals per day. Before you go to bed, make sure to give the dog ample time to digest the meal and then eliminate it in the bathroom. Another alternative is to leave enough food out for your dog to consume throughout the day. Controlling the amount of food served to your goldendoodle puppy is vital if you want to make sure it gets the appropriate amount of calories for its age and size. How to feed goldendoodle puppy Your Goldendoodle puppy will need a healthy, well-balanced diet to reach its full growth potential and maintain its high level of activity throughout the day. You can feed your Goldendoodle puppy one of two different kinds of food. You may either buy dog food in a bag or cook it up fresh every day. As a precaution against nutritional deficiencies, many pet owners prefer to give their canines commercial dog food. Your Goldendoodle will thrive on a diet rich in protein and fat from strong sources, so keep that in mind as you shop. Packaged foods should include an ingredient list for items that contain two or more types of beef proteins. Fish and meat. Either fish or beef feed can count as an acceptable source of protein so long as those two components come first on the ingredient list. As a consequence of this, the meal contains very few additives or carbs, which suggests that meat is one of the most important components of any dog meal. Protein can typically be found in dog food in the form of peas, beans, and various other types of protein-rich vegetables. In addition to beef and chicken, other types of protein and fiber that are beneficial for pups include all grains and green vegetables. They contribute very little in the way of nutrients and are therefore frequently used as fillers. Talking to the veterinarian who cares for your dog is the best way to get a more accurate picture of the amount of food that your Goldendoodle ought to be eating. When should you change the goldendoodle puppy feeding schedule to an adult one? You are going to have to wean your puppy off of puppy food and transition him over to a mature dog diet instead so that he can get all the nutrients he needs. The size of a breed is an important factor to consider when feeding a puppy, and this stage of development is no exception. Because larger strains require longer maturing, it is possible that they will require some puppy food for up to two years. On average, dogs should start eating food formulated for adults between the ages of one and two years old. If you are uncertain of how to handle the transition and how you can make it less traumatic for your dog, you should seek the opinion of the veterinarian who treats the dog if you feel unsure of how to handle the situation. Goldendoodles are also susceptible to a number of health problems resulting from unnatural eating patterns. Illnesses that are commonly seen in Goldendoodles are caused by poor diet, and they include: The Deformity of the Hip Joint Both forms of hip dysplasia result from improper growth of the hip joint. Your dog may have trouble climbing stairs or running around if he or she is afflicted with hip dysplasia. In some dogs, this can result in paralysis. Goldendoodles should maintain a healthy weight to prevent hip dysplasia, which is more common and has more severe symptoms in obese dogs. You can do this by developing a goldendoodle puppy feeding schedule that keeps the amount of food the puppy receives in check. Patellar Dislocation It is not uncommon for a dog to experience a dislocation or partial dislocation of the patella. Stumbling and pain could result from a dislocated patella. Some of the discomfort associated with patella luxation can be mitigated by keeping your dog at a healthy weight. FAQ 1. To prevent your puppy from becoming overweight or malnourished, you should give it two-thirds of a cup of puppy meal each day. How Often Should Goldendoodles be Fed? It is recommended that you give your puppy food three to four times per day. Therefore, it will be able to sleep soundly all night long. It normally takes puppies between five and thirty minutes after eating to defecate. Apply the guidelines on our meal chart to your dog. Conclusion There you have it! It may seem like a lot to take in, but your little guy is worth the effort. These guidelines are going to set him up for the healthiest life possible and make the first few weeks go a lot more smoothly for both of you. Remember, any time there is a question, always consult your veterinarian. Related Posts. While free-feeding is generally okay when feeding your puppy, it is wise to introduce a feeding routine at around 13 weeks old. As for adult Goldendoodles, you can feed them one meal in the morning and another in the evening. This should be enough to make them feel full throughout the day. Senior Goldendoodles, on the other hand, can be fed once in the morning or once at night. If your dog still prefers two meals, you can feed them similarly as you would an adult. While on the topic of optimal feeding time, it is also important to know when to give treats to your dog. Usually, it is best to give treats to your pooch in between meals — not right before and not right after. Preferably, you should only use treats to reward your dog. In turn, this will also affect their potty schedule and interfere with the balanced diet they should be getting. Always remember that you can tweak these optimal feeding times so that it fits your lifestyle better. However, it is best to feed them around the same time each day. They love any food and can eat almost anything you serve. However, it is still essential to know the best foods to give your Goldendoodle. Providing the best kinds of food for your dog is not only good for their health, but it also helps preserve some of their best features, such as their hypoallergenic trait and calm disposition. Wet food is easier to chew than dry food and is suitable for dogs with weak teeth, senior dogs, sick dogs, or dehydrated dogs. Wet food is arguably the best puppy food. Its flavor and softness are excellent for developing teeth. Dry Food: Dry food or kibble is the most convenient food to serve your dog. In addition, dry food is also one of the best food choices for a Goldendoodle as it is excellent for their dental health. Dry food prevents tartar buildup and gum disease and promotes stronger teeth. Kibble is best for adult Goldendoodles as their teeth are as strong as it gets. Some ingredients you should look for when choosing kibble are chicken fat, flaxseed, omega-3, and meat protein. There are also grain-free options if your dog prefers those. This consists of raw meat, bones, fish meal, and a mix of fruits and vegetables. Feeding your Goldendoodle a raw diet reduces the use of commercial dog foods that have added preservatives and unhealthy processed foods. BARF diet has been proven to bring health benefits such as healthier and shinier skin and coat, good dental health, fewer ear infections, and less odor in Goldendoodles. Plus, Goldendoodles like the taste of raw food! Homemade Diet: A homemade diet is very much acceptable for Goldendoodles. They can thrive with this diet as long as proper nutrients are provided. Make sure to supply them with the six key nutrients a dog needs — protein, fat, carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals, and water. Preparing a homemade meal is also much cheaper. Moreover, it also gives you more control over what your dog consumes. Likewise, a Goldendoodle with an underlying health condition might be better off with a homemade diet. In addition, some Goldendoodles may benefit from specific kinds of foods or supplements that are tailored for their coat color. To learn more about Goldendoodle coat colors, read our comprehensive guide on the topic. On some occasions, the generation of a Goldendoodle can also affect the best diet for it. In conclusion, the best dog food is always on a case-to-case basis. Consult a vet if you want to be sure! These dogs are prone to bloating and often have different allergies to food. Certain foods cause pain, vomiting, and diarrhea in these dogs. Some of the most dangerous foods for your Goldendoodle are grapes, raisins, and prunes. These three foods contain an unknown toxic substance that can trigger major problems such as choking and kidney failure. Cherries are also notorious for your Goldendoodle. Its pits, seeds, stems, and leaves contain cyanide , a poisonous substance that can cause an upset stomach. Soda is not just unhealthy for humans but for dogs as well. The carbonation and sugar levels of soda can be hard for dogs to handle. It can cause dehydration, gastrointestinal problems, excessive flatulence , and diarrhea. Moreover, as we all know, chocolate is toxic to Goldendoodles. It contains a xanthine compound known as theobromine , which dogs cannot digest and metabolize. Needless to say, keep your Goldendoodle away from chocolate! But if your dog happens to consume chocolate and shows signs like vomiting, diarrhea, excessive urination, and increased heart rate, visit the nearest vet immediately. Onions and garlic should also be kept away from Goldendoodle because these contain a thiosulphate compound. This compound may cause discomfort, diarrhea, vomiting, dehydration, loss of appetite, and abdominal pain. Furthermore, any food with a high level of sugar and salt is bad for your Goldendoodle. Salty foods will dehydrate your dog, and excessively sweet foods can cause diabetes. It is a good habit to also check the sugar and salt levels of any food you give to your Goldendoodles. Other harmful foods are macadamia nuts, walnuts, raw or undercooked food, coffee, dairy products, citrus fruits, and avocados. Luckily for you, Goldendoodles are generally not picky eaters. The ideal time for the transitioning period is around 10 days. Do this until your Goldendoodle is comfortable enough to try completely new food. Refer to the table below for a more detailed breakdown of transitioning your dog to a new food: Day. Obese puppies develop an improved risk for many types of cancer, diabetes mellitus, heart disease, and hypertension. Rickets: Rickets is a rare disorder of young, growing animals that causes soft and distorted bones. It is generally caused by poor phosphorus or vitamin D in the diet. More infrequently, calcium shortage is to blame. A quantity of calcium has caused rickets-like signs in some dogs. Allergies: In the dog, the most ordinary symptom associated with allergies is itching of the skin, either localized in one area or generalized all over the body. Occasionally, there may be watery release from the eyes or nose. How much should I feed my Goldendoodle puppy? Feel about its ribs — you should be capable to feel the ribs but not seeing them separately when simply glancing at them. Also, do your best to observe the advice in the chart above. You can also ask the breeder who sold you the puppy to see if they have any suggestions. Yet, this does not suggest that you should have big amounts of food willingly available to your dog all of the time. Since puppies grow fast, the importance and frequency of meals change as they develop. Summary Feeding a Goldendoodle can both be difficult and comfortable at the same time. Since they are not choosy eaters, these dogs can adapt well to new meals. The downside is that the Goldendoodle manages to have an acute stomach. This means you have to be alert about what you give your puppy. Remember, satisfied dogs are the healthful ones. If your Goldendoodle is overfed, it can lead to a host of health problems. Here are some signs that your Goldendoodle may be overfed. Similarly, underfeeding your Goldendoodle will cause it to become incredibly skinny, and it will be more prone to getting sick. This is why you need to strike that balance when feeding your pup. Feeding Chart for Goldendoodles Here, we present to you a feeding chart for Goldendoodles of different ages. They are energetic and playful, and they make great family pets. Goldendoodles typically reach their full adult size between 8 and 12 months old, but they can continue to grow until they are two years old. During this time, it is important to feed them the right amount of food to help them grow at a healthy rate. This will help to ensure that they get the nutrients they need without gaining too much weight. Goldendoodles are active dogs, so be sure to provide plenty of opportunities for exercise as well. With the proper care, Goldendoodles can be happy and healthy pets for many years to come. When they are aged months, they should be fed three cups a day. If they start to gain too much weight, reduce their portion sizes. If they start to lose weight, increase their portion sizes. Feeding a Goldendoodle is not difficult but requires some attention and care. With a little bit of effort, you can ensure that your Goldendoodle stays healthy and happy. This should be split into two meals, with no more than 1. With the right food and care, your Goldendoodle will stay healthy and happy for years to come! Plus, all that fur means they tend to lose a lot of body heat, so they need extra calories to stay warm. Of course, every dog is different, so you should always consult your veterinarian to determine the best diet for your Goldendoodle. But as a general rule of thumb, cups a day is a good amount of food for an adult Goldendoodle. What Foods Should You Feed Your Goldendoodles Here are some of the best food choices for Goldendoodles: Dog food based on meat and vegetables: This type of food is packed with nutrients that your Goldendoodle needs to stay healthy. This type of food is designed specifically for puppies and contains all the nutrients they need to grow and develop properly. Grain-free food: Some Goldendoodles have grain sensitivities, so grain-free food is a good option for them. This type of food is also generally easier for dogs to digest. Which Food Types Are Bad for Goldendoodles While Goldendoodles are generally known for being one of the most food-friendly dog breeds, there are still some foods that they should avoid. The worst food for Goldendoodles is actually quite a common one: chocolate. Chocolate contains a compound called theobromine, which can be toxic to dogs in large quantities. Other foods to avoid include onions, garlic, grapes, and raisins, all of which can cause gastrointestinal distress or even kidney damage. Signs Your Goldendoodle Has a Bad Stomach Goldendoodles are generally healthy dogs, but like all breeds, they can sometimes suffer from stomach problems. Sometimes stomach issues can be caused by something as simple as a change in diet, but other times they can be indicative of a more serious problem. If your dog is lethargic, has a loss of appetite, or is vomiting blood or bile, these are all signs that something more serious may be going on, and you should seek veterinary care immediately. This unfortunately is common in the Poodle breed and Lexie at a 8 years old just had a near death experience with this issue! So, how much should you feed your mini Goldendoodle puppy? Depending on his breed, activity level, and size, you may need to adjust the amount of food you are currently giving him. Always remember — puppies need plenty of water to stay hydrated! Related Reading. This means you should avoid leaving food out for them at all times, as they can eat too much and become sick or even develop bloat, which can quickly become deadly. How To Feed Your Goldendoodle Puppy This may seem like a silly question, but it is relevant because the answer is actually not that obvious! You should be able to cover the food with your hand without your puppy making too much fuss. Allow them to start eating. While they are eating, stroke them and pet their heads. This is an excellent time to brush them, too, as they are occupied and not scrambling around. This is an important practice to get them used to your presence and prevent food guarding and aggression. Considering how large Goldendoodles can get even when they are puppies, this is an important part of their training. Next, give your puppy about 15 minutes to eat their food. During this time, they will either eat all of their food or eat until they are full and lose interest in the rest. After 15 minutes is up, remove any of the uneaten food left behind. If your puppy is still eating, then let them finish their food. The number of options can be overwhelming! Hopefully, I can whittle it down for you and make the decision a little easier. The American Kennel Club recommends using premium or high-end puppy food as they typically have a higher nutritional density and are more consistent, whereas cheaper foods can be inconsistent and contain filler products. Puppies have higher nutritional needs than adult dogs. Their food should be more nutrient-dense because they can only eat a little bit at a time. Their food will generally be more expensive owing to its quality; however, it should last you longer than a bag of adult food. Just like with adult dog food, you can choose between kibble or solid food, pouches or semi-moist food, or canned soft food. Top Puppy Food Suggestions For Goldendoodles While there are innumerable options out there for you to choose from, I have carefully narrowed them down to three products that I highly recommend for your Goldendoodle. Your Goldendoodle will grow to be very large and be prone to joint problems, so it is a wise decision to start them on puppy food that will support their growth through the time when they are doing most of it. Here are my three favorite Goldendoodle puppy foods and the features I love about them: Product. If your puppy eats 3 times a day, we recommend you schedule the feeding times around the same time you have your meals. This is also a great time for socialization with the family. The last meal of the day should be around 5 PM, so your puppy has time to digest and poop before nighttime. Can You Overfeed a Puppy? Yes, feeding your puppy too much can cause obesity, digestive issues and other problems with their development. At around 8 weeks, puppies should have all of their baby teeth and will be able to start eating dry food. Nevertheless, your puppy might need some time to adjust. For the transition period, mix the dry food with some water. You can add less water every few days. When to Switch Puppy to Dog Food? You can switch to adult dog food once your dog has grown to its full size. Have a look at the Petfinder puppy feeding guide above. And of course, follow the guidelines given by your vet, as each dog is unique. Generally, toy dogs reach their adult size by 11 months, small and medium dogs by 13 months, large dogs by 16 months, and giant dogs by 24 months. When to Switch Puppy to 2 Meals a Day? Usually around 6 months of age, you can start feeding your puppy 2 times a day. However, for some larger and giant breeds that are prone to GDV, feeding 3 times a day might be recommended even after that. Are Elevated Dog Bowls Safe? Some sources claim that bigger dogs will benefit from elevated dog bowls. Elevated feeding bowls might be useful in cases of joint problems and arthritis in large and giant dogs. However, there is still the misconception that elevated dog bowls reduce bloat in large dogs. Large and giant breed dogs are more prone to bloat and gastric dilatation-volvulus GDV , which can be a life-threatening condition. A study by Ronald M. Bright concluded that eating from an elevated dog bowl is actually one of the risk factors of GDV. Source Another study looked at risk factors associated with GDV. It is a dog and puppy calorie calculator that conveniently converts calories into cups per day! However, having a proper feeding schedule and right amounts in place helps enforce good behavior and overall quality of life. It is not intended to be a substitute for qualified professional veterinary advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Always seek the advice of your veterinarian or other qualified animal health provider with any questions you may have. You Might Also Like.

We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. We put these two on our puppies from day 1 to get used to the feeling of a leash and collar. We have some more detailed information on best leashes and collars for your puppy below. I would advise against trying during the first 2 or 3 days in your home as they have enough to deal with getting used to a completely new environment and family. But by getting them used to a collar and leash at 10 weeks old, they will be comfortable wearing them by 12 weeks when you can start to walk them outside. How long will it take to get them used to a leash and collar? Some take hours, some take days, most will be comfortable by the end of 2 weeks as long as you take care to introduce them to it methodically. I have two highly informative buying guides for choosing the right size and style of leash and collar for every situation that you can find here: How to choose the right collars and how to choose the right leash. Otherwise it will be too heavy and uncomfortable. Choose a small, lightweight collar. The lighter it is, the easier it will be to get used to. Choose a wide, flat collar and not a thin round one. So get a wide flat collar, but one that is as light as you can find. Choose a collar with quick and easy to use clips and not a buckle fastening. You need to get the collar on and off as fast as possible and not have to fiddle with it. This makes the experience is as stress free as possible. Opens in new window. Be patient. It may take hours, it may take a couple of weeks, not all puppies learn at the same speed. So be patient and eventually they will get it. Try to act as though wearing a leash and collar is no big deal and is completely normal. Calm energy from you promotes calm energy in your puppy. They can become snagged on things and cause strangulation. For a puppy that constantly chews on the leash, spray it with Tabasco sauce, bitter apple or one of many other pet-safe bitter-tasting sprays available to deter their chewing. What you want to do is the first time you put it on, leave it on for just 5 minutes then remove it. Repeat this every half hour or 45 minutes for the first couple of days. Then leave it on for 10 minutes in each hour for the next day. Then 20 minutes in each hour the next day, and so on until you can leave it permanently on. By day 6 or 7 most puppies are used to their collar and comfortable wearing it for hours at a time. A puppy will learn at their own pace. To have the best chance at the quickest success, use the following tips and techniques. Any tighter than this is uncomfortable for your puppy and may even restrict their breathing. Any looser than this and they may be able to slip it off. This is why a plastic clip fastening is best as you can do it in a second. Some will remain quite calm rarely! A few will go absolutely crazy, scratch at it, roll around and make a huge fuss. You need to ignore their struggling. Just ignore all the fuss. To help combat this, you can use the power of distraction. Put the collar on before you feed your puppy one of their meals. Or put it on and then offer to play with them and their favorite toy. Also: You should only take the collar off when your puppy is calm and relaxed. Obviously you want to avoid this. So use food, training or play to distract them and get them into a calm state before you remove the collar. Then they will offer calm behavior to get it. You have to wait for calm. And you should also avoid giving treats when you take the collar off. Now, once your puppy is comfortable in a collar, you can move on to training them to get used to a leash. How To Get Your Puppy Used To A Leash ikostudio The following tips will get your puppy used to a leash and lay a great foundation to build upon for future leash training. You will learn to avoid developing bad habits that lead to pulling later on and develop good habits that help in future training. First of all, make sure your puppy is comfortable and confident wearing a collar, then in a secure and familiar room of your home you can attach a leash. As with the collar you want to almost ignore them. No encouragement, laughing or telling them off if they chew at or try to remove it. If the need arises, you can calm your puppy by using distraction. Call them over to you, ask for some obedience commands or offer them food or a toy and it will redirect their focus and attention away from the leash. Leave it laying just outside of their confinement area where they can see it but not get at it and use it as a chew toy, or place it near to their food bowl when eating so they can see it but will be too busy eating to want to play with the leash. We want them seeing the leash around to learn its nothing to fear, without being able to play with or chew on it. A good tip is to practice this from the minute you get your puppy home, a couple of weeks before ever attempting to attach the leash. Now you can start to pick up the other end. Instead, hold the leash and follow your puppy around, keeping the lead slack for them as you both go. It pays to have a pocket full of treats so if this does happen you can grab their attention and lure them toward you with a treat. You should practice this a few minutes every hour for a day or two. The first few times you lead them, have a treat in your hand or one of their favorite toys and use it to lure them around the room with you. Now put your puppy on the leash. Just encourage them your way you by calling their name and slapping your thigh. Make a HUGE fuss to make it a massive reward that they came to you. They will come eventually, just wait until they do and then praise and treat enthusiastically. Now repeat steps 1 to 4. Step 6: Repeat this exercise 5 to 10 times per session, each hour of the day and repeat for a few days until your puppy consistently moves toward you when they feel the slightest bit of pressure on the leash. This will not take long and once it is learnt it will benefit your future leash training massively! Step 2: As soon as they stop freaking out give total release of all pressure on the leash and give warm praise and a treat. This rewards them being calm. A few repetitions will teach them that outbursts get them nowhere and being calm gets the leash to slacken off and earns a treat. Step 3: Once your puppy has learnt to be calm to earn a loose leash, they have to do a bit more to earn their treat. Repeat this a few times. Step 4: Now only reward them for coming even closer. They will soon catch on to the fact that being calm and moving toward you earns praise and a treat. You can now follow the processes of stopping them pulling on the leash and leading them around the room as described earlier in this article. So try to avoid the following: Pulling on the leash yourself: This will achieve absolutely nothing. Additionally, dogs like most animals fight against restraint so when you pull, it just makes most pull harder. Also, your puppy pulls, they go forward. You pull back a bit, then eventually give in, they still go forward. So they learn your pulling is only temporary anyway and their pulling gets them where they want to go. Rushing forward to slacken the leash when your puppy pulls: This teaches the puppy that pulling works! When you snap or jerk a leash, you loosen it first, then snap it tight to startle a dog and get their attention. But when used incorrectly and too often, your puppy pulls, feels the leash go slack and then gets yanked back. Not good. We want them to think the pressure on the leash is totally released when they move toward us, so never add any back in although this is usually only a problem when using a long leash to be fair. Well, maybe this works to a degree. But by following the techniques described in this article, the process will be as stress free as possible, and you will have laid the foundations for training your puppy not to pull on the leash later, instead of them learning bad habits that you then have to break. Are you having problems getting your puppy used to his collar and leash? What techniques have your tried? Tell us about your experiences in the comment section below. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. These tips will also help you to advance your dog so that, eventually, you can trust them to be off the leash in a safe area. Don't release your dog until they can demonstrate knowledge and obedience on the long leash and in many different settings. To begin with, walk them in the house and in the yard. Dogs learn 'contextually and by repetition'. These hints will help you to become the pack leader. Be certain that this is only reason that your dog will follow you. Make time to walk your dog Whether you walk your dog in the morning or evening will be influenced by your program. Whenever you exercise your dog, the walk should allow for 'focused time' and 'free time'. Two leashes will facilitate this. If they are under 12 months old, take some water with you. Also take a back-pack and a treat belt available on Ebay. I recommend no more than thirty minutes of walking in total for a dog under 14 months old as their growth plates are not set until this time. Be careful of overly vigorous activity, particularly if you have an older but playful dog. I don't recommend running for more than very short bursts for the same reason. Healthy hips and elbows are critical for a healthy, active and long life. Use two leashes - a long leash approx 7m and a short leash approx 1m Start your walk with the labrador pup on a short leash. The short leash will help you to direct and guide the dog. This allows you to maintain full control over your dog. Set up your walk for success. Start by getting the dog to sit or at the least be stationary and under your control. As you begin, keep your dog behind your body alignment. Be patient and encourage your dog. Do not show aggressive frustration. This will only cause confusion and fear or aggression. If your dog is not complying, stop and reset. You are the master Walking in front of your dog demonstrates that you are the master or the pack leader. You should be first out the door. The dogs should exit the compound only at your command. This is essential whether you are walking 1, 2 or more dogs. If your dog controls the pace and direction of the walk, they are the pack leader. Your dog should be beside or behind you during the walk. Dogs learn contextually The next two hints are important training essentials. Firstly, labradors learn contextually and their training in not immediately transferable to a new environment. Using the same disciplines and routines, train your dog the same way in different settings. This will entrench your expectations. Correct immediately Secondly, a labrador has about a five second retention of information. After five seconds the dog has lost any association between your assertiveness and their behaviour. If they disobey you, you must correct them within five seconds or not at all. If the dog is disobedient or simply does not understand, reset and start again. The long leash I'm a big fan of the long leash. A long leash will help you to correct bad behaviour at a distance. After a period of training with the short leash, remove it and connect the longer lead. Keep the leash in your hand, releasing it slowly and progressively. As they master this, you can back away while the dog is 'sitting and staying'. Reward your labrador pup with vigorous affection and a treat. After this, you should allow them to wander and sniff around. All this time you will keep your dog on the long leash and under your control. Be sure that the free time is less than their focus time. During the socialisation phase, 8 - 16 weeks, you will need both leashes as you expose your labrador pup to other dogs. As you walk your dog, you will come across small and large dogs that are aggressive. Walking on either leash will give your complete control. And it will ensure safety at all time. You new labrador pup has no innate road sense. Walk them, getting close to roads. Expose them to vehicles so that they do not panic. Reward your dog for good behaviour. Remember that dogs register tones and frequencies, not words. Use higher tones to affirm, reward and encourage. You approval is the greatest reward for a Labrador. Direct eye contact without high vocal affirmation will be interpreted as aggression. Use lower growling tones to reinforce disapproval. Try to avoid 'No' as a command. It is too general and therefore confusing to the dog. Always reward and reinforce obedience to specific commands. Use food treats to begin with, however you must gradually phase them out. Your vocal affirmation and affection should be your longer term goal. As your dog maintains the proper behaviour, reward them with treats. Reward your dog after the walk I recommend that you reward your labrador pup after the walk. Let them have a drink firstly then give them a portion of food that is less than a meal but more than a treat. It will not take long for your dog to anticipate the whole experience. When you appear with the leashes, they will become very enthusiastic. If you adhere to these eight hints and maintain the discipline of your training, you and your dog will value and enjoy the experience. Finally, remember to pick up after your dog. Don't go on a walk without your poop bags on hand! Find a vet you can have confidence in. Pawling Chocolate and Black Labradors. Andorra and Spain I wouldn't use a front-fastening harness for a young puppy. They are generally used for stopping a dog from pulling, but don't help with training. Front fastener tend to either work by tightening around the dog as he pulls, making it uncomfortable to pull, which we'd call an aversive and most of us would choose to avoid. Or they work by preventing the dog from getting traction into the forwards motion, often by turning the dog slightly. If you have a problem with a dog pulling, and either have to have them on lead before they've been trained not to, or if you're physically unable to have the dog pulling you at all due to injury or somesuch, then they're fine. But in the case of a brand new puppy, I'd suggest that they're unnecessary, and you should be focussing on training him to walk without pulling from the get-go, which you can achieve perfectly well on a standard back-fastening harness. Since the puppy has no real weight to put behind it at this stage, you should be able to manage without the mechanisms in a front-fastener. I'd recommend looking at the articles on teaching your puppy to walk on a loose lead and start putting the recommendations into place immediately. Here are some articles that may help:. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. Then you get a reality check. Walking nicely on a leash is not an instinctive behavior, and your Lab is just as likely to try and pull you in whatever direction they choose. Until they start getting into their senior years, Labs are excitable, curious, and powerful animals. Labradors are well known as strong leash pullers. But, like any desirable behavior, your dog can learn and you can teach. If your Labrador pulls like a rambunctious plow horse, read on to find out how to get back on the straight and narrow. There are times when a dog will attempt to assert itself as the leader of the pack, and some people believe that pulling is just such an attempt. The simple truth is dogs are overcome with excitement and overwhelmed with sensory input when they get outdoors, especially someplace other than their own backyard. Over stimulation Before long, your dog is so caught up in seeing, smelling, exploring and peeing, that all training goes right out the window. Even the act of pulling itself can be rewarding if your Lab likes the feeling of a little extra exercise. Freedom and autonomy in the great outdoors! Now your dog knows that pulling on the lead pays off in spades. But once the association is made between the leash and going for a walk, it becomes one of the single most exciting objects in the world! Once all four paws are on the floor or the dog is sitting; whatever your preference then move to attach the leash again. If the bad behavior continues, you back off once more. Why leather leashes? Short Practice Sessions A simple way to preserve your patience is to keep the length of your training walks to a minimum. The more time you spend with your dog pulling you along, the more likely you are to become exasperated. Nothing good will come of that for either of you. You need to be in the right frame of mind to convey reinforcement to your dog. A good idea is to choose a short route in your neighborhood, and walk it repeatedly. A familiar walk is still a pleasant one, though considerably less stimulating. Your dog will be less distracted if he sees the same things repeatedly. Burn Off Extra Energy in Advance Dogs in general, and Labradors in particular, have a lot of energy and they need to expend it in some manner. Short walks will not be enough to keep them satisfied, and they may be inclined to try to make up for it by pulling extra hard. Have an exercise session before your training walks to help combat this problem. Have some fun throwing a ball around the yard, or get in a good game of tug-of-war before heading out on the town. I always figured playing toss with a tennis ball was enough, but three things sold me with the Chuck It. You can launch the ball further with less effort. Keep Up the Pace Being a fairly large breed, your Labrador will have no trouble outpacing you without much effort. Reward Good Walking You know from your other training sessions that your Lab loves treats! When the walk is going just the way you want, offer praise and a tasty reward. Do this frequently to keep reinforcing the good behavior. And make sure they are compact and easily chewed treats that can safely be eaten on the go. When your dog starts to pull, you stop walking! If your dog is already proficient at coming when called, even when there are distractions, this may be the method for you. This technique may be difficult for smaller individuals, the elderly, or anyone with a physical disability. Ask your dog to come to you and give the sit command. At this time, resume your walk. If they continue to walk along beside you, repeat your praise word and offer another treat. Keep doing this periodically. Should they start to pull again, come to a stop and repeat the first step. When they pulls towards an object, stop as you did before. Call them back and have them sit. Again, offer the word of affirmation, but do not give a treat. Instead, walk to the item they want to inspect and have let getting to the object be the reward. Load up your pocket with treats, or carry a treat bag on your belt. Keep several in your hand at all times while walking, and replenish from your reserve. Cut them up into smaller pieces to make perfect training treats! Every few seconds, pop a treat in their mouth. Should they start to veer off or get ahead and start pulling, the walk stops. As with the previous method, call your dog back to you and get them to sit. When they do, give praise and then resume the walk, once again with the treats held in front of the nose. After a bit of uninterrupted practice, say a week or so, stop carrying treats in your hand, but have them nearby. Keep offering them frequently. Begin offering treats less frequently; start by giving a reward every 5 steps or so, and then gradually space them out over larger distances. Be aware, this method should only be used if your dog is not wearing a head halter or slip lead. The idea of this technique is to surprise your dog when they reaches the end of the leash. First, start with a verbal warning cue for your dog when they are about to run out of slack. Give praise and a reward as you continue to walk. Keep walking in the opposite direction, and praise your dog as they catch up to you. Once your Lab is back beside you, resume walking in the original direction. Repeat this step as necessary. The idea is to teach your dog that walking too far ahead and pulling leads to an unpleasant sensation, and diverts the walk away from where they want to go. Use this method if positive reinforcement is not having the desired effect. Watch for signs that your dog is under extreme duress; cringing, cowering, yelping or any other outward display of fear or pain are clear indications that this method is not working. Desist immediately and try something else. Collar Tug Like the previous method, this technique also uses a bit of negative reinforcement, and should not be used in conjunction with a slip lead, or a head halter. Again, this should only be tried if positive methods are not proving fruitful. As before, when your dog is approaching the end of the leash, administer a verbal warning. The force of the tug will depend on the size of your dog, and it may need to be repeated before you really get their attention. In the case of my own dog, his neck muscles are far too strong to make this effective, and the same may hold true for your own Lab. Exercise extreme caution with this technique. Choosing a good collar and leash will help as you teach your Lab to walk nicely. The Classic Collar Of course a traditional collar is perfectly acceptable, either with a buckle or snaps. For a selection of classic collars recommended by us, please click here. Harnesses A harness is a good option, especially for anyone who has had difficulty walking a dog using a collar. Many dogs will respond to pressure around their neck by pulling even more in the opposite direction. Pull that one out at parties and impress your friends! Head halters and no-pull harnesses can be very helpful during training. They make your dog easier to control, and discourage pulling almost entirely on their own. Be warned, though, that they should not substitute for actual training if you really want your Labrador to learn to walk on a loose leash. While your dog will walk perfectly well when using this equipment, they are unlikely to repeat this behavior with a traditional collar. Choosing a Leash Make sure you give some thought to what leash to buy. When yours truly bought his first leash, the selection was based on color and not quality, a decision I regretted when my very eager puppy snapped the leash and made a run for it! This gives enough length to give your dog a bit of freedom, but keeps it short enough for you to maintain control and have them close enough to praise and reward. Click here to see a selection of leashes as recommended by us. Things to Avoid No decent dog owner wants to hurt their dog, and yet pain-inflicting devices are all too commonly used for training. As mentioned earlier, negative reinforcement can be helpful if used cautiously and sparingly. However, to use it as your sole method for loose leash training is not acceptable. Choke and prong collars deliver strong doses of pain to a dog in order to deter them from unwanted behavior. It is extremely difficult to control the amount of pain generated during a correcting move with such a collar, and the force delivered invariably exceeds the required amount. It is our very firm belief at Labrador Training HQ and in the dog community in general that these items are cruel and barbaric. Avoid them at all costs. The good news is the repetition can be fun and rewarding. You and your dog will get plenty of exercise and quality time together, and opportunities for socialization and training , too. Labradors are strong and energetic dogs, especially in their youth. They love to get out and explore, and this desire coupled with their devotion to their owners, make loose leash training, well… a walk in the park. Get out and enjoy! Are you having trouble with your Lab pulling on leash? What have you done to help get your dog to stop pulling? Tell us your experiences in the comment section below. A very good, 4-part guide with steps to follow to train a loose leash walk. I highly recommend checking this out! You might want to try some yourself? Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. Basic Dog Training How to Teach a Puppy to Walk on Leash The key to teaching a dog to walk on leash is taking it slow—and using lots of positive reinforcement. She is passionate about human-animal interactions, having founded the nonprofit Animal Assisted Professionals, which provides animal-assisted interventions, including animal-assisted therapy and activities. She has held roles in the pet industry that have included service and therapy canine training, rescue and shelter management, veterinary care, and animal behavioral consultation. In her free time she is passionate about providing animal-assisted interventions, training and preparing therapy dog teams, and spending time with her wonderful husband, charismatic daughter, two glorious dogs, and two very fluffy cats. Daily Paws' Editorial Guidelines Published on February 12, Whether you just brought home that tiny, fluffy bundle of puppy joy or you recently found your perfect canine match at the local shelter, every dog-owner relationship involves a great deal of time and effort dedicated to teaching important life lessons and skills. Our dogs are not born with the ability to comprehend human words and they certainly don't come equipped with the ability to walk nicely on leash. Walking on a leash is something every dog should know how to do. Not only does it allow them to journey about with you, their favorite human, but it also keeps them safe and protects other dogs and people, too. It doesn't matter if you live in the city or enjoy the quiet country life, your dog should always be walked on leash. Teaching them to walk by your side takes time, but with patience and positive reinforcement , you and your dog will be enjoying daily walks together soon. Teach a Marker A marker or bridging stimulus is a sound or hand signal that pinpoints the exact moment your dog did something that earned them a reinforcer a treat. A clicker is a great example of a marker and a conditioned reinforcer. If you don't have a clicker you can use a consistent word like "yes" or "good," or a hand signal like a thumbs up. But pick one and stick to it. Mark the behavior the second you see it. The more accurate and quick your mark is, the more effective your teaching becomes. Build a Positive Association Before he goes off on an outdoor adventure with you, your dog needs to feel comfortable and enjoy wearing walking equipment. This includes his collar, leash, and possibly a body harness. Be sure you are in a quiet, non-distracting area of your home like your living room. Start by giving your dog time to get used to wearing each item. Put his collar on while he plays in the house or goes outside to potty and each time you put it on, mark and reinforce by giving your dog a treat. Attach the leash to the collar for short moments throughout the day, being sure to mark and treat him as he moves a few steps while wearing it. If you plan to use a body harness , introduce it slowly, providing treats and praise as you place it over his head and connect the straps. Teach Your Dog to Give Attention It may seem as though you should just start walking with your dog but before you can move, you need to make sure he is actually paying attention, otherwise he may pull and dart about. Be patient and wait for your pup to offer you this is capturing even a tiny moment of eye contact or look at you—then immediately mark and reinforce. Repeat this frequently so that your pup understands looking at you equals treats. You can add a "cue" for attention, too. Say "look" or "eyes" right before your dog is about to look at you and then mark, reinforce, and praise. Start Moving by Backing Up This may seem counterintuitive, but the backward steps are a great way to begin moving without encouraging your dog to pull. With your dog wearing his collar and leash, take a few steps backward and as he follows you mark, reinforce, and praise. Gradually increase the number of steps backward you take. Start with two or three steps and then turn to walk forward two or three steps. Mark and reinforce him if he stays by your side. Practice With "Come" Teaching your dog to "come" while on leash is a great way to help prevent future issues or pulling or forging ahead. It also gives a good opportunity to teach your dog to come on cue without the risk of him running away. With your pup wearing his collar and leash, toss a treat just a few steps away from you. After he eats the treat and turns back around to face you, say "come" and quickly mark and reinforce the moment he moves towards you. Repeat this so it becomes a game of tossing a treat and then turning around to come to you for another one. Practice Taking a Few Steps on Leash Outside Once your dog has mastered the basics of leash training inside, you can begin to move outside, but be sure to find a place that has few distractions. Your backyard or garage are good options. Practice walking just a few steps and stopping and asking for attention. Mark and reinforce for moments of nice leash walking every few steps while in motion and anytime you stop, wait for their attention and then reinforce, too. Don't rush it! Baby steps, baby steps, baby steps. Gradually Increase Distance Slowly begin to move from your home to the neighborhood. Begin by walking the distance of just a house or two and gradually increase the distance as your dog masters the skill. Be sure to mark and reinforce constantly until your dog becomes better and better at this set of skills. It takes time to get good at coordinating the mark and treat delivering while moving, but after a few days of practice rest assured you will be a pro. Keep with it and stay positive! Remember that puppies have short attention spans despite their seemingly endless amounts of energy. Don't expect a young dog to walk long distances with you until they are more mature and grown. Be patient and allow your dog to sniff, to pee on trees and bushes doggie email , and to enjoy being outside with you. Walkies should always be fun, not a chore nor a time for perfect heeling. Was this page helpful? How to leash train a Labrador. Labradors can pull like trains Everywhere you go, you will see dogs on leashes. Others have a rather different style. You will see their owners, hurrying along with one arm stretched desperately out in front. A stressed hand grips an outstretched leash, and at the end of it a dog fighting for air. Front feet scrabbling at the pavement, this dog is intent on choking himself! One way to help resolve this unpleasant situation, is to teach your dog to walk on a loose leash. And you can do that by waiting them out. Where you just stand still and refuse to move forwards while the lead is tight. But this can take a very long time with a determined puller. Please avoid retractable leashes. Make sure the leash is attached to a body harness , which is much safer for a strong pulling dog. Later on, your dog will not need frequent feeding to maintain his loose leash, but to begin with generosity is the key. An event marker A clicker is used to accurately tell your dog exactly when she did what you wanted her to. It is a very helpful aid in the training process. But you can equally use your voice. If you have to drive your dog to a deserted car park or quiet street so be it. A hard surface tarmac or paved is ideal is helpful as it enables the dog to quickly find and pick up the treats. How often to train your dog Set aside at least ten minutes for this training and do it at least twice a day. Three or four times a day is even better. Try not to miss a day, at least for the first week How to leash train a Labrador Take your dog to your chosen training location and attach the lead to his collar or harness Step 1: Start Set off walking forwards Step 2: Stop As soon as your dog to gets to the end of the leash this may be almost immediately , stand still Step 3: Wait Now wait for the dog to give you some attention. Drop a treat just behind you for him to collect as he reaches you. Start walking forwards Step 1 again as soon as he has gathered his treat from the ground. The dog will probably then charge past you to the end of the leash. You know what to do. STOP walking. Make like a tree. Pause, gather your thoughts. Rinse and repeat the steps from 1 through 4. Make a little kissy noise with your mouth for example. As soon as he looks at you drop a little food on the ground then turn away from him. The idea is that when he eats the food he will be in the right position just behind you, and that this position will become attractive to him. Start associating a kissy noise with food, at home, in the garden, and elsewhere. Your rewards may need to be upgraded to something more attractive and smelly. He should be hungry and eager to eat. Making progress with loose leash walking The first few sessions will be a bit boring. There will be waiting, and hanging about. Hang on in there, you need to be determined. Just focus on the fact that you have simply had enough of letting your dog drag you around. It may take three or four sessions before the dog figures out there is no point in charging past you, starts to pay you more attention, and watch where you are walking. But these occasions will become fewer and further between. And you will be able to walk longer distances and get to where you want to go, without stopping and changing direction every two seconds. All you have to do is stand firm when your dog gets it wrong, and reward him when he gets it right. You can do this. It takes a little patience, but you can do it. Introducing distractions to loose leash walking Just like any other skill you teach your dog, you need to start in a distraction free area. But there comes a point, when the dog has really grasped what you are teaching him, when you need to introduce some distractions into your training. Dogs eventually have to learn to walk past other dogs, people and the neighborhood cat, without charging about like lunatics. It helps to start with any distractions at a distance and to set up training exercises where it is easy for the dog to win because you have some control over the other participants. You can do this with friends or at a training club. Write it down At the end of each session, I suggest you make a note of how you got on. Rewarding good behavior As your dog gets better at walking on a loose lead, it becomes tempting to forget the rewards altogether. This is a sure way to see your efforts undone. Always carry a few treats on you when you are out with your dog. Reward him from time to time when he is being good. He deserves it. Before you learn how to leash train a Labrador This is a simple exercise designed to help people who are struggling with a dog that pulls them around on a lead. This is because every forward movement your dog makes on the end of a tight leash is a reward for him an reinforces the pulling behavior. There are various ways to tackle this You can drive your dog to his exercise area You can stop exercising the dog outside of your own garden whilst you train him to walk to heel You can use an anti-pull device whilst you are not training him Just remember, you can teach an old dog new tricks. And if you stay calm and patient, your Lab will get there in the end too.

For dogs, as with other animals including humans, an important function of play is instruction. Puppies use yelps of pain and refusal to keep playing to instruct each other about the differences between playful mouthing and painful biting. Expose your young dog to other animals and people in a wide range of environments so that normal social situations are less likely to cause fear. You may think you are just teaching your puppy to obey, but you are also teaching him patience. Dogs with poor impulse control are more likely to bite when their wants are not immediately met. Let your dog know this in the same way as a litter of puppies. The earlier you start this process, the better. Play with your puppy and allow her to mouth your hand. As soon as the dog stops mouthing or licks your limp hand, praise her and start the process again. If you sense your puppy is about to bite you again, quickly say "no" or "no bite. This is a great way to use positive reinforcement to teach your puppy that biting is bad. If making your hand uninteresting for play is proving insufficient, employ time-outs. Leave the room for seconds after yelping to make it clear that biting is not a part of play time. Extend the time-out and reduce your threshold for what constitutes a bite as your dog learns. Utilize the same techniques as in the previous step, but also: Substitute a chew toy or bone when your dog begins to mouth your skin. Have the toy at the ready and quickly present it to the dog. He will learn that these are acceptable targets for his mouthing instincts. Distract the dog with a treat in one hand while petting him with the other. This is particularly useful for dogs who tend to mouth or bite when petted. The lack of focus on the petting hand will become normal over time, even if there is not a treat to distract them. Enjoy non-contact play, such as fetch. Show your dog that there are many ways to play that do not involve her mouth on your skin. This simple procedure can not only prevent you from finding yourself with an undesired litter of puppies, but it can also reduce the roaming and fighting tendencies that can cause some dogs to bite. American Pit Bull: Boxer Puppy Biting and Nipping When we talk about Boxer puppies biting children, both younger and older kids, toys or even biting at your feet, what most are actually talking about is nipping. There is a huge difference between the 2 words. A nip is a quick snap of the jaws, it can be done in the air close to a person or it can make skin contact yet it is a pinch type bite that often does not break the skin. Boxer puppies and even older dogs nip, not to attack someone, but to send a warning. The warning is not necessarily that of an impending attack… Boxer puppy nipping is done for one of several reasons: As play — Young pups are used to nipping at their littermates as a form of play and this may carry over as they transition into their new home. If a Boxer puppy is biting a lot, it may be an issue of the dog needing to learn the rules of the home and needing to learn that was used to be acceptable with other pups is no longer acceptable with his humans. A Method of Sending a Message — Boxer dogs of any age may nip for many reasons. Unable to vocalize, the nip is a message. Often it is a low growl, lasting just seconds, with teeth bared. In some cases, there will only be a growl as the dog lowers his back, hunches over and bares his teeth yet does not actually physically bite. On the other hand, an actual bite not a nip is a full force, aggressive action in which the jaws lock down and teeth puncture the skin. The dog intends to inflict injury and the person on the other end often receives it unless thick clothing gets in the way, etc. In the following section we will discuss how to stop a Boxer dog from biting in the sense that the dog is actually nipping and it is not a full force, aggression bite meant to do serious harm. Training to Stop Boxer Puppy to Stop Biting and Nipping Overview Many owners feel, and rightfully so, that a bite is a serious issue and a behavior that needs to be addressed immediately. For this reason, they feel that taking serious action is the only way to stop the behavior… and this is where things can go wrong. And this is because it does not teach the dog what he needs to learn. Yelling, hitting or otherwise intimidating a puppy or dog will only serve to make the dog afraid of his owner. Alternatively, some dogs will see this as a challenge. So, owners must choose: Fear or respect. For a happy, healthy environment in which humans and canines live in peace, the Boxer or any other dog should be taught to respect his humans, not fear them. In addition, for a dog that bites, physically isolating him will stop the problem short term…while the dog is taken away of course he is not biting anyone…. It is a huge mistake to miss out on a chance to train a dog to stop biting. Of course, in the rare chance that a dog is full out biting, causing injury and is clearly dangerously aggressive, the dog should be removed… And measures must be taken to keep the family safe from any potential attacks…but again, this does not relate to puppy nipping, play biting or nipping due to teething, etc. Training a Boxer puppy to stop biting takes a bit of mental will power. You may have heard this before: Ignore the puppy. There is no other way for a dog to interpret this, as it is canine mentality. His humans and any other animals in the home are his pack. Every single pack that exists has a leader. Having a leader is a defining element of a pack. Problems can arise when a dog does not have a clear understanding of who that leader is. Humans begin eating. Two to three minutes pass. Once the dog obeys, a delicious and healthy meal is set down for him. So, once a dog knows that his human is in charge, how does this training stop the Boxer from biting….? When a Boxer understands that his human s are his leader s , being ignored is akin to being rejected by pack. A dog will suddenly be very humbled. He will worry that his pack has turned their backs on him… he will question his behavior and, when done correctly, he will make the connection that his action of biting caused a major problem with his standing in his family…. If you were both on the floor, stand up. If you were holding him, place him down. If you were both sitting on the sofa, rise up. This means zero talking, absolutely no looking in his direction…nothing. As a Boxer puppy works very hard to gain attention of any one in the house, everyone even those who were not bitten should be completely indifferent to the dog. Allow 10 minutes to pass. Now, when you are doing this, 2 minutes may feel like 20, so take a look at the clock and then choose an activity flip through the TV, check your email, get a drink…do whatever you want, but do remain in the house so that your Boxer can see that you are ignoring him and wait it out. After those 10 minutes, it is time to speak to your Boxer, but not engage him in any activity yet. Many times, the puppy will test things out. Simply mull around near your dog, speaking a bit and acting matter-of-fact. Do not give praise. Wait things out for about 5 minutes. If your Boxer does not nip or bite at you, it will be time to go back to the position that you were in when the bite occurred. It is at this time that if your Boxer does not nip at you that praise and attention can be given. If the dog does bite again, the complete ignoring method of training must be done — this means that the dog is testing things to see if it was indeed his nip that caused his temporary outcast from the pack. Puppy Training Tips An important facet of dog ownership is training. As soon as you bring your puppy home, you should begin training. On top of teaching your dog basic commands, it is also vital that they understand basic puppy manners, including how to behave in the home, what behaviors are appropriate, and what is not. Getting started can seem a bit overwhelming. But the good news is that in most cases, puppy biting is completely normal and something that is entirely trainable with the right techniques and attitude. Why does my puppy bite me and how can I prevent it? Regardless of breed, all puppies explore the world with their mouths. On top of this, like babies, puppies go through a teething process that can last a few months. Many puppies are used to also playing rough with their littermates, where biting is often a successful way for puppies to get attention or instigate play with their siblings. Combine this with their need to explore, and this often leads puppies to chewing things they shouldn't: furniture, shoes, arms, legs. However, we can approach this by offering the puppy plenty of appropriate chew items throughout the day to relieve their desire to chew. Most owners make the mistake of providing rope toys, squeaky toys, or stuffed animals. While these are fun toys, they do not actually encourage the puppy to chew on them, and oftentimes have bits that are easily torn off, making them a choking hazard. So, what is a good chew toy for puppies? Good chew toys taste good. If you think about it, a rubber toy tastes like … rubber. No wonder your puppy would rather bite your leather shoe or arm! When picking chew toys for your dog, look for ones that have a lot of flavor. Our favorites are bully sticks, cow hooves, pig ears or yak chews. That said, the more bitey your puppy is, the more frequently you should offer your puppy tasty chew toys as an alternative. Some breeds have a reputation for being extremely mouthy or predisposed to nipping and biting for example English Bulldogs, Golden Retrievers, Labradoodles or Bernedoodles. If you have a puppy like this, you should aim to provide them with at least two hours of supervised chewing time a day. What if my puppy still bites? Try your best to be patient as you help your puppy work through the unavoidable biting phase. Puppies that are extremely mouthy can eat every single meal out of a frozen toy like this. By removing yourself from the situation, you are teaching your puppy that biting does not result in attention or engagement and instead, the fun is over. By doing this consistently, you should see an improvement in their biting behavior in a matter of days. Stop and redirect the inappropriate chewing behavior if you catch your puppy in the act. Make sure your puppy is getting enough exercise. Conversely, puppies need lots of sleep and downtime. It is perfectly normal, developmentally appropriate behavior for puppies until they are around six months of age. When can I start training my puppy? You should begin training your puppy the moment you bring them home. Puppies begin learning from the moment they are born, especially when it comes to socialization and handling. Formal training of commands can start at around eight weeks, which is around when your dog is ready to come home. Preferably, you want to get a lot of training done in the first few months that you have your dog. You want your dog to be well trained before they hit puberty, which often causes them to fly off the handle a little bit. Furthermore, what dogs learn in puppyhood is solidified once they become adults. Waiting will only make your dog harder to train later. For this reason, we highly recommend that you start puppy classes as soon as your dog has their first few shots. Steffi TrottProfessional Dog Trainer and Founder of Spirit Dog Training Conclusion You can help your puppy through their puppy-biting stage through a range of different techniques, such as providing plenty of appropriate and tasty chew toys for your puppy. With consistency, time and patience, your puppy will quickly learn that biting people or furniture is unacceptable, and that the urge to bite or chew should be satisfied with an appropriate chew toy instead. By providing a safe outlet for their instinct to bite or chew, both you and your puppy will be happier in the long run. For further guidance on how to train your puppy to stop biting, check out Spirit Dog Training's Ultimate Puppy Program! For more training tips and advice, visit Spirit Dog Training. Our Recommendation Puppy Recipes for Every Size Each carefully crafted recipe for puppies contains perfectly balanced nutrients to support healthy growth and development. How do you turn your puppy into a well behaved, sociable dog, and keep those Chompers off your skin? Bite inhibition training, or soft mouth training, is a fantastic way to get any puppy to avoid human skin, or not bite down when they do hit it. Imagine two small boxer puppy littermates, about 5 weeks old. At least for the next few minutes, that is, until all is forgotten and play resumes. He realizes he bit just a little too hard, and that is why play stopped for him. The Boxer pup has learned to control his bite pressure at least with other puppies! Your pup gets a little too excited, miss the toy, and clamps down on your hand! What are you going to do? Your solution here is a simple one. Mimic dog, or rather puppy, behavior! How would one puppy respond if the other bit him a bit too hard? Immediately stop playing your game! Drop the rope toy and walk away. The last thing your pup wants right now is for the game to stop. Your goal is very simple. Puppy Biting and Teething Your puppy will undergo two teething stages as the little one grows two different sets of teeth. The first stage happens at about three weeks, and there is no reason you should ever have to deal with it unless you bred your puppy. At about 12 weeks three months , the second teething process will begin and your boxer puppy will begin growing his permanent teeth! Your puppy will want to bite and chew. Human skin is just…. If your puppy does this, offer a chew toy instead. Puppy sized rubber Kongs make wonderful chew toys and tend to be very durable! Very few young puppies are powerful enough to break apart a Kong. Offer the toy if your pup starts chomping at those hands or toes during play! Teething puppies are going to bite no matter what you do. They might not be trying to play but relieve the discomfort they feel from the teething process. Stop play as soon as those teeth miss the toy and clamp on your skin. These are called aversives, or forms of positive punishment. Aversives are used as a form of punishment reinforcement. More often, a reward-based approach is recommended, or something the dog will enjoy. This is with adult dogs. Never, ever, scold or yell at your or any puppy! Even mild forms of chastisement or corrections are questionable. You only ever want to use reward-based enforcement techniques. Why are puppies so special, you ask? Why are they different from adult dogs? Your puppy could become permanently afraid! But why should you, anyway? Why does he even need to know how to control that bite pressure anyway? Socialize Your Puppy! This is probably more important than anything else listed in our article! Teach your puppy, while he is a puppy, that other people both adults and children mean only wonderful things! Introduce your puppy to all kinds of environments and as many friendly animals as you can! Introduce your little one to dog parks after he is vaccinated , crowds, and other public areas with strangers. Show your puppy that nothing he might ever encounter ever means him harm! Related topics of interest to our readers. Dogs , Puppy training Alex Andes Puppy Biting: What's Normal, What's Not, and How to Curb It One of the most common issues we see poor dog training advice given for is puppy biting and mouthiness, so we're going to give you the most standardized professional advice possible for this issue. There's a reason why it's discouraged for non-professionals to give legal or medical advice to strangers on the Internet. At best, their advice could be wrong; at worst, it could it be potentially dangerous. We so wish the same rules applied to dog training advice. Puppies go through at least two fear periods in their first year of life, so when those sensitive puppy brains are involved, it's especially important to follow professional instruction! They go through an uncomfortable teething process that lasts for months. They play hard with their siblings, often using their teeth to successfully instigate play and attention. Herding breed dogs are predisposed to nip, herd, and chase small, fast-moving things. Young children often get the brunt of this behavior. Retrievers are predisposed to picking up and holding anything and everything within reach, including your hands and arms. A word on what to avoid: Above all else, avoid physical punishment when it comes to puppy biting. I have heard people given terrible albeit, well-meaning advice over the years, from squeezing your puppy's mouth shut, to pinning them on their backs, to muzzling them to stop the biting. Physical punishments like this range from silly and ineffective to cruel and downright abusive. In fact, you can create fear and aggression in your dog using these types of methods. So, what should you do about puppy biting? When you bring a puppy into your home, it's your job to create fair, consistent boundaries for unwanted behaviors, including when it comes to teeth on skin. Note: You are not putting your puppy in a time out. That involves way too much time, talking, and attention to be an effective punishment. You are either ignoring the behavior or removing yourself from it. That means play is over, fun is over, attention is over. Be as non-dramatic as possible. If the behavior is hard for you to ignore, go behind a door or baby gate where your puppy does not have access to continue nipping at you. If your puppy tries to nip at you when you return, remove yourself again. You should see a major decrease in the intensity of biting as well as the amount of biting attempts within a few days. An Important Caveat: Some puppies find the act of a person walking away reinforcing. If your puppy seems to enjoy you removing yourself as a game of chase, you can alternatively use the side of your leg not your knee, please! You may have to block them multiple times before they stop trying; don't give up! And most importantly, still avoid yelling or using your hands — bitey puppies tend to find both of these things very exciting. Remember, it's normal for young puppies to explore the world with their mouths. Things to keep in mind: Be sure to give your pup attention and praise when they are behaving nicely! All family members and guests MUST be consistent in order for this to work! Be aware that even doing everything right, this behavior may not go away entirely until months of age. Remember, this is a normal developmental period in puppies. For extra-bitey puppies, or those that are biting after months of age, this blog will help give you some additional tips and recommendations. Why Does This Work? A behavior that doesn't get reinforced will stop. Your pup will learn that we don't react to biting with play, attention, or even a negative reaction. All of these things can be fun for a puppy. Your pup will learn to self-entertain. Once they realize the nipping isn't working, they will eventually redirect themselves onto something else. Your puppy will seek out appropriate ways to get your attention, like offering a "sit" or laying at your feet. A few other suggestions: It's also important to have a management place for your puppy, such as a play pen or baby-gated bathroom. It gives you a break from your puppy, and is a calm place for your puppy to settle down if he gets too wound up. Make sure your puppy has plenty of rubbery teething toys, is getting daily exercise, and is not excessively crated. If his needs are not being met, the nipping will take longer to extinguish. Make sure your puppy is eating three meals a day. Things we may think are punishing, like pushing your puppy away, yelling at him, etc, can be considered fun, play-like behaviors for your puppy and can encourage biting. When doing the above exercise, be as quiet and calm as you can. When should you be concerned about biting in puppies? You should seek out a certified professional if your puppy: Is growling, snapping, or biting when a person comes near a resource. Food, toys, etc Stiffens and stares at the person before biting. Is consistently biting and breaking skin. Barks, growls, or nips not in play at new people entering the home. Snaps or growls at children. What if it's not getting better? Remember, we do not expect this behavior to go away entirely until at least months of age. We also need to take into consideration a dog's breed, social history, and any medical conditions that could be contributing. For example, if a puppy has an intestinal parasite that's depleting their nutritional stores, we often see an uptick in biting. For extra guidance with extremely bitey puppies, or those that are still regularly biting after 6 months of age, check out these additional tips. Need professional guidance on your puppy biting issues? We offer private and group online dog training that's accessible from anywhere in the world. More details here , or contact us. Puppies begin biting very early on in life. Just like human babies, it is common for them to chew on objects during the teething stage to reduce discomfort. Furthermore, many dogs prefer using their mouths rather than their paws for manipulating objects. Once again, this behavior begins in puppyhood as young pooches start to explore their world. Puppy biting may be cute at the beginning, but as your pup grows, these little nips can turn into painful bites. Thus, the puppy-raising experience will generally include that one moment when Fido playfully bites down on a finger and draws blood. Needless to say, this is not a behavior we humans want to have continue, especially not into adulthood. Want to learn how to get a puppy to stop biting? Here are the steps to take to stop puppy nipping. Inhibit the Biting The first step for how to get your puppy to stop biting is to inhibit the behavior. It is totally normal for puppies to mouth each other when they play. This mouthing, however, can quickly turn into a bite. When it does, the puppy on the receiving end will yelp, and this sound startles the puppy doing the biting, thus making him release. Humans can exploit this behavior to stop puppy nipping and teach your pup how much mouthing is acceptable. When a puppy latches onto your hand or finger too hard, let your hand go limp and imitate that yelping sound. When the puppy releases, ignore her for 10 to 20 seconds and then resume play. The goal here is to teach the puppy that gentle play continues and rough play stops. Eventually, you should be able to teach her that mouthing without biting down is OK but that anything more than that is not. For this method on how to make a puppy stop biting, each time the puppy tries to mouth you, pull your hand away before contact and promptly provide a treat or wave around a chewy toy for him to bite on instead. Keep in mind, however, to never let the tugging become too aggressive. Distraction In addition to mouthing people, puppies will also mouth things in their environment. This is mostly done out of curiosity. There are many ways to teach your dog not to chew on house furnishings. Besides puppy-proofing your home, be sure to provide an assortment of interesting and safe chew toys for your pup to play with. For example, if she shreds a plush toy in 2 minutes, you may want to stick toys made of rubber or hard plastic. Hide-the-treat toys are also great for distracting puppies from nibbling on other things. This type of toy not only distracts your pup but also provides mental stimulation as she tries to figure out how to get to the reward. A final option for distracting your pup is to arrange a playtime for your dog with other puppies or vaccinated adult dogs. Not only will this help to socialize her with other dogs, but those dogs will also assist in the process of teaching your puppy when a bite is too hard. Deterrence There are various products designed to prevent a dog from licking or chewing objects in the house. With that being said, this method of stopping puppy biting is not as simple as spraying your belongings with these products. There are two very important steps involved in using them for training. He should spit it out right away. After he spits it out, let him smell it so that he makes the association. This may sound cruel, but if your dog learns that he can just run to his bowl and get rid of the taste, the deterrent will become ineffective. Continue doing this for the next two to four weeks until your puppy has stopped chewing your belongings. This is particularly true for herding breeds. To teach your puppy to stop nipping at your heels, keep a favorite toy in your pocket. When she bites at your heels, immediately stop moving and wave the toy around to distract her until she latches onto it. Another method is to stop moving when she bites, and then, when she releases on her own, offer her the toy or a treat. Always praise your puppy when she releases from nipping at your heel. The idea is to teach your dog that good things happen when bad behavior stops. Puppy nipping and biting are natural behaviors for puppies but unwanted in adult dogs. Taking these few simple steps now will help prevent that bad behavior down the line and allow you to have a stress-free lifelong relationship when that little bundle of fur grows up. Looking for another method for how to keep a puppy from biting?

As the German Shepherd growth chart suggests, a German Shepherd dog reaches full size and adult weight after one year. A growth spurt can occur between 1. The result of this late growth is an up to 10 percent increase in height and weight. Although you can consider a German Shepherd fully grown by one year, there may be additional factors that influence the growth of German Shepherd dogs. Is Your German Shepherd Healthy? Improper development can occur for many reasons. It could be as simple as your dog responding poorly to their dog food. Your feeding schedule and portions might not be sufficient. Your dog could also have a basic nutritional deficiency that you need to correct. Yet, being underweight or overweight can signify serious health problems. Weight loss can occur when the syndrome develops. Dogs typically show signs of EPI at between six months and six years of age. Parasites Dogs are highly susceptible to parasites. Deworming medication helps to reduce the risk. Yet, almost all puppies experience a parasitic infection at least once. Upon infection, your dog is at risk of serious weight loss and other troubling symptoms. Diabetes Mellitus Diabetes mellitus can affect any breed but has an above-average occurrence in German Shepherds. These dogs need insulin daily to accommodate for the inability to metabolize sugars. If your German has diabetes, severe weight loss can occur in a short period. Diabetes typically affects canines that are four years or older. It is the most common cancer in German Shepherds. Up to three percent will develop HSA. In most cases, this condition sets in at around nine to 12 years. Dietary Deficiency Do you have your German Shepherd on a raw food diet? Puppies often run underweight when receiving their nutritional requirements through raw meat. This diet is healthy and effective but needs monitoring, as not all dogs respond the same. Review the diet plan with a veterinarian and confirm there are no digestive or metabolic issues. Also, do not forget the importance of exercise! Clear Your Concerns with Coverage You put your heart into loving your dog like a child, but some things are out of your control. Health struggles can affect canines as much as humans. Even purebreds from AKC-certified breeders are not safe from serious health struggles both early and late in life. All you can do is prepare yourself to overcome complications. What if cancer happens? What else could happen? Peace of mind is great as a dog owner. Is coverage the answer? Get pet insurance quotes and see for yourself. Get Quotes for Your Cat Charitable Giving With every pet insurance policy we generate, we do our bit to help less fortunate animals across Canada and the U. Popular Articles. Frequently Asked Questions German Shepherds German Shepherd Dogs are one of the most popular breeds and are my absolute favorite breed. That's why I've had five in total, three boys and two girls. From their loyal and obedient personalities to their beautiful coats and markings, they bring joy to many homes, including mine. With impressive intelligence, these puppies are easy to train and make excellent companion animals. The German shepherd is a large breed, usually weighing between pounds for males and up to 75 pounds for females. Their coats require minimal grooming but will benefit from occasional brushing. German shepherds are very active dogs who love to run around; they need plenty of exercise to stay physically and mentally healthy. They also enjoy activities such as agility training or nose work games where they can use their smarts! Factors Influencing Weight But what about their size? German shepherds can vary in size based on gender, age, nutrition, and because of their breeding. For example, a German working line shepherd is much more energetic than the more laid-back American show line dog. A puppy from working lines may weigh less than the average on the charts. Be sure to consider factors such as gender and environment when monitoring your pup's development. A good rule of thumb is that by eight weeks of age, a German Shepherd puppy should weigh between pounds, depending on the genetic factors mentioned above. By six months, most male puppies will weigh between 49lbs — 57lbs with an average weight of 53lbs, and a female will weigh between 44lbs — 49lbs with an average weight of 46lbs. For this reason, when consulting a weight chart for a German shepherd puppy, it's essential to understand the breed, lineage, and pedigree of the dog, as well as the sex of the dog. Our puppy weight charts are specific to German Shepherd Dogs and consider all these factors. It's an excellent tool for monitoring your pup's growth and health. These charts show the average expected weight range for male and female German shepherds at different ages, from puppies to adults. Knowing the expected range can help ensure your pup grows normally and stays within healthy boundaries. By six months, a male German Shepherd will weigh 53 pounds on average, whereas a female will weigh about 46 pounds. Our chart differs from others in that you can track your puppy's weight based on his actual weight at a point in time. Many other weight charts are either for non-specific breeds, or if they are specific to a German Shepherd, they only give you the averages and a range. While this is all useful and included in our charts, what is missing from many others is what weight your puppy will likely be based on his actual weight now. Most people bring their new puppy home at 8 weeks old 2 months. The range for a female German Shepherd puppy at that age is between lbs. As you already know your puppy's weight, you can estimate how much they are likely to weigh when older using our chart. For example, if your puppy weighs 14 lbs at 8 weeks old. To estimate how much they are likely to weigh at 6 months old, you would find that weight on the chart and follow it down to the 6-month-old row and see that she would most likely weigh 46lbs by the time she is 6 months old and 68lbs when fully grown. Of course, these are just estimates, and all puppies grow at different speeds, as will yours. Another way this chart is helpful is if, using the same example, your puppy weighs 14 lbs at 8 weeks old and then jumps to 49 lbs at 6 months old, instead of the predicted 46 lbs. In that situation, you would follow that new column down and see that she is now closer to weighing 70 lbs when fully grown. They are heavier-boned, more muscular, and have deeper chests. If you know what you're looking for, you can distinguish a male from a female German shepherd by looking at their heads, as a male is larger and have a more masculine look. Using the German Shepherd Puppy Weight Charts To use this chart, find your pup's current weight along the top and go down the left side of the chart to find his age. If he is in range, you can follow that column down to see what he will likely weigh at each age milestone. For example, if your male German Shepherd puppy weighs 18 lbs at 8 weeks old, then you would find the nearest weight at that age on the chart. In this case, it's .In this instance, he would weigh approximately .Under no circumstances should you try to adjust your dog's diet or exercise to fit in with the chart; it is merely a guide. German Shepherd Weight Chart for Female Puppies Female German shepherds, on the whole, have a much narrower head and nose and have an overall feminine look, especially around the eyes. If you know what you're looking for, you can guess whether they are male or female by looking at their face. Having said that, my girl, Ava, was very tall for a female and was often mistaken for a boy, even when she was wearing her pink collar and leash! But I still think her face was much more feminine than her brother Hudson's. This breed of dog has unique growth development. During the first three months of their life, a German Shepherd's body goes through a significant growth spurt. Typically, they can double their birth weight in the first week! At 12 weeks, you can expect your pup to weigh about pounds for a male and pounds for a female. This growth spurt will continue through five months old; by the time they're six months, you'll likely have a large, goofy puppy on your hands. After that initial growth period is over, you'll find that your German shepherd will gain weight slowly from then on out until it reaches its full adult size at around two or three years old. On average, female German Shepherds reach an adult weight of pounds, while males reach pounds. German Shepherd Puppy Height Chart German shepherds come in a range of sizes, some taller than others. It can be helpful to know the different heights of German shepherds to ensure that the one you choose fits your lifestyle and needs. When looking at a German shepherd height chart, it's essential to remember that males tend to be larger than females. Depending on where they were bred, most standard-sized male adults will stand between inches, while female adult German shepherds typically reach inches in height from paw to shoulder. Below is our height chart for German shepherd puppies you can use to estimate your puppy's height at each age milestone based on his starting or current height. It also includes the average percentage of adult height reached each age milestone. If your puppy's weight is outside the guidelines, it may be less of an issue than you think. Puppy weights can vary greatly depending on breed, genetics, and other factors included on this page. While ensuring your puppy receives proper nutrition and exercise is essential, several factors can influence their weight. One way to determine your puppy's adult weight is to check with your breeder. They can make an educated guess as to what your furry friend will weigh once they reach adulthood. A reputable breeder should have a good understanding of their dog's genetics and be able to provide insight into the typical size range of their litter. This information can give you a rough estimate of what weight you can expect for your German shepherd as they grow older. Another factor to consider when determining the adult weight of your pup is their parents' size, and again the breeder can give you much more information on this. You can also speak with your veterinarian about your puppy's overall health and development, and they may be able to provide some insight into their expected adult size. It's important to avoid becoming too fixated on your puppy's weight if they fall outside the standard guidelines. Don't worry if your puppy is a little bigger or smaller than listed here, and if you still want to determine their adult weight, you can also use the puppy weight chart for a large or giant breed dog here. Conclusion In conclusion,German Shepherds are a fantastic breed of dogs, and understanding their growth and development is essential for pet owners. Knowing the average weight and height of male and female German Shepherds can help you be better prepared for your new pup's growth. With the proper diet, exercise, and vet care, your German shepherd will be healthy and happy throughout their life. Keep in mind that these charts are only a general guide — every pup is different! A 3-month-old German Shepherd should weigh between 17 lbs - 26 lbs for a female, with an average weight of .For males, it'll be between 22 lbs and 30 lbs, with an average of 26 lbs. How much does a 5 month old German Shepherd puppy weigh? A 5-month-old puppy will weigh between 40 lbs - 49 lbs for a male with an average weight of .A female GSD puppy will weigh between 35 lbs - 44 lbs with an average of .When will my German shepherd puppy stop growing? Most German shepherd puppies continue growing until they are two or three years old. You might like these. What is a healthy weight for your dog? Your tiny, cute German Shepherd puppy will likely grow into a medium-sized or large dog. Females will probably weigh in on the medium side, while males can get pretty big. GSD puppies experience a phenomenal rate of growth, especially before six months, so be ready. Just remember that dogs as big as male German Shepherds are at risk for joint problems because they grow so quickly, and overfeeding them can exacerbate those problems as they get older. Factors Effecting German Shepherd Size German Shepherd size is dependent on age, but there are many other factors too. Female Shepherds are smaller and lighter than males. How your dog is fed and exercised will play a part. In this article we will look at the height and weight of GSDs at different stages of their development. And at what you might expect your cute German Shepherd puppy to measure and weigh when they are a full grown German Shepherd Dog. German Shepherds are the third most popular dog in the USA right now, having been recently nudged down a place by the French Bulldog. The breed belongs to the Pastoral group of dogs traditionally used as herding dogs. Some shepherd breeds were also used to guard livestock. German Shepherd Dog size is linked to this important role. The German Shepherd temperament is also tied in with this purpose and has made them uniquely suited to work as a service dog. With the right training, German Shepherd dogs also make excellent family pets. Working German Shepherd Size Because of their dual purpose as both herding and guard dogs, they are one of the larger shepherd dog breeds. He also turned to refining them into good police and guard dogs, creating a very versatile breed still in demand as herding became less common. German dog breeds became unpopular during the second world war and lovers of the breed began referring to them as the Alsatian dog, to protect their dogs from anti-German sentiment. They are easily trained, so they make good show and work dogs. Specifically with weight and growth rate. Being overweight can be harmful to German Shepherd health, just as it can to other breeds. Black German Shepherd puppies weigh the same as pups of other colors Weight issues in adult dogs is not the only area of concern, GSDs are prone to hip and elbow dysplasia, which has been linked in some cases to overly rapid growth in puppies. They also suffer fromosteochondritis dissecans, disorders of the pancreas, panosteitis causing lameness, eye and ear issues, and allergies. And are vulnerable to bloat. In addition, some GSDs have deeply sloping backs and angulation in the legs that may be causing health issues. German Shepherd Puppy Size An average weight of German Shepherd puppies, according to a giant census study of dogs in Italy, is about grams or 1. A baby German Shepherd can range from 0. By about a week of age, they will weigh 1. This is one of the reasons why large breed-specific dog foods exist: to control the growth of these dogs in a way that will maximize their health and minimize joint problems. But up to 3 or 4lbs either side of that is normal. At this age most puppies are settled in with their new families and are on three meals a day. At this age pups can look quite gawky and skinny. Growth rate starts to really slow down now and many dogs will look a lot less puppyish than they did a month ago 9 month old German Shepherd puppy By nine months, your Shepherd will weigh between .At that point, the dog is about 90 percent of his or her adult weight. But in the coming months your pup will fill out, look less gawky, and may carry on gaining weight for another months. Bear in mind that this should be muscle gain, not fat, so keep an eye on that waistline! German Shepherd puppies generally stop growing significantly in height by nine months for males, eight months for females. Males may get an extra inch by 15 months and females slightly less than that by months. They reach their adult weight at 36 months. GSDs, like many larger breeds, are considered fully grown by about 18 months, when they have reached 98 percent of their growth. A golden shepherd golden retriever shepherd mix may be very similar but a shepherd mix dog where one parent is much smaller, will not. The answer is no, not really, though it is possible to harm your dog by overfeeding either as a puppy or an adult. German Shepherd dogs will no longer grow in height after 36 months of age, or three years. Dog individuals vary, just like human individuals do. You can ask your vet for a weigh in and a check up to discuss any concerns Average German Shepherd Height On average, male German shepherds reach a larger size when adult than females. So your girl German Shepherd is likely to be a little smaller than her brothers when she is full grown. The German Shepherd breed standard specifies that a good height for adult male German Shepherds is inches at the withers. For females, a size of inches at the withers is about right. How tall is a German Shepherd — length vs height These dogs are longer than they are tall. Fully grown male German Shepherd size is usually between inches tall and lbs. And adult female German Shepherd size is typically within inches tall and lb. However, you can expect your male GSD to weight about 80 lbs by 18 months of age, and 84 lbs by 36 months of age. Female German Shepherd weight is going to be less than male, the average weight at 18 months of age is about 62 lbs. But a good weight for females can like anywhere from lbs, and a good weight for males will be anywhere from lbs, depending on individual factors. Shepherds are often not as greedy as some other popular dog breeds, but obesity can still be a problem in this breed. Remember that exercise or lack of it is rarely at the heart of excessive weight issues in dogs. The problem is almost always too much food. Red German Shepherd Some slight weight loss may occur naturally in an old german shepherd. Older dogs may lose their sense of taste or smell and have less of an appetite than they did when young. However, there are certain breeds that are easier to train than others. Thankfully, German Shepherds fit into that category because they are very intelligent and quick learners. This includes house training , crate training , basic obedience commands as well as learning tricks. We recommend attending a puppy kindergarten class as part of your German Shepherd puppy socialization strategy. Once your pup knows their basic obedience commands, you can enroll them in Schutzhund training aka IPO. Partnership and teamwork between yourself and your dog are the basis for this type of training. Note that the Schutzhund environment is not a place for dogs with aggression issues, neither towards other dogs nor people! If they pass that initial level which includes a temperament test, they can move on to IPO 2 minimum age 19 months and IPO 3 minimum age 20 months. That said, protection dog trainers recommend starting training classes that include bitework and high jumps once your German Shepherd puppy is 12 months old. Dutch and Czech are two other languages that commands are frequently taught in. Stanley, my former long-haired GSD dog walking client, started going to Schutzhund training when he was a little over 12 months old. His owners practiced commands in German with him on a daily basis, and I remember getting a print out of his German commands as they asked me to use them on our walks as well. Lots, ha! German Shepherds need a minimum of 2 hours of physical exercise per day, but generally speaking, the more exercise you can provide your GSD with, the more they will thrive. Remember, German Shepherds are high-energy, athletic dogs bred to be active all day long, especially if they come from a working line! Physical Exercise Ideas for German Shepherds As far as physical exercise, this can be a mix of walks, runs, bike rides, fetch and playtime. This is Nala, one of my former pet sitting clients. She was crazy about frisbees and balls. One of my favorite ways of increasing the energy and calories a dog burns on a regular walk or hike is by using a doggie backpack. Mental Stimulation for German Shepherds Besides providing a good physical workout, dog backpacks also burn mental energy. As you probably know, bored dogs can quickly become destructive as they figure out ways of entertaining themselves. For example, chewing up your furniture and shoes, scratching doors, raiding your kitchen trash can or digging up your flower beds. So do yourself a favor and make sure your GSD gets plenty of exercise on a daily basis. Remember, a tired dog is a good dog, and that applies to German Shepherds as much as it does to any other dog breed! Former GSD client Remi pooped after a long walk. Bottom Line So, how big does a German Shepherd get? Well, German Shepherds are medium to large size dogs, so they can weigh anywhere between lbs. That said, the average expected weight for a male GSD is between lbs, and the average expected weight for a female GSD is between lbs. Both reach sexual maturity somewhere between months and are considered fully grown at about the 2 year mark. Keeping that in mind, your GSD breeder should be able to give you a good general idea of how big your German Shepherd puppy will grow to be! Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist. Barbara is a trilingual, something dog lover, e-book author, founder, copywriter, dog nutrition blogger and editor at K9sOverCoffee. Post navigation.