how much english bulldog puppies cost

how much english bulldog puppies cost - CHECK OUT 9 Things that are 4 meters long As your dog grows and begins to reach its adult weight, you can still use the weight method to figure out a rough collar size. When should a puppy first wear a collar? Some puppies may have already been wearing soft breakaway collars for training or to distinguish them from their littermates. This can make training, particularly leash training, much easier in the future. Collar Types There are several collar options available, and picking the right type is often as important as choosing the correct size. Leather collars are durable and stylish. Nylon collars are also comfortable for the dog and are available in a number of colors and patterns. Plastic collars are also available for dogs that tend to swim a lot or are frequently dirty. Harnesses are an excellent training tool for puppies that are just learning to walk on a leash. They can curb bad leash habits, such as pulling. Harnesses can be switched out for a collar as the dog grows, or you can upgrade to an adult harness size. Sharing is caring! Yorkshire Terrier When considering the Breed Standards and Average Sizes for collar selection, it is important to note that these measurements are approximate and may vary slightly across individual dogs. The average neck sizes listed above can serve as a general guideline for choosing an appropriate collar size for your lab puppy. It is crucial to measure your lab puppy's neck size accurately before making a collar purchase. Using a soft measuring tape, wrap it around the base of your puppy's neck, ensuring a snug but comfortable fit. Keep in mind that puppies grow quickly, so it is advisable to choose a collar with room for growth. It is recommended to select a collar that is adjustable to accommodate your lab puppy's changing size. This way, you can easily modify the fit as they grow. Always ensure that the collar is comfortable for your puppy to wear, with enough space for two fingers to fit between the collar and their neck. By considering the Breed Standards and Average Sizes, measuring your lab puppy's neck accurately, and choosing an adjustable collar with room for growth, you can provide your puppy with a comfortable and properly fitting collar. Remember to monitor your lab puppy's collar as they continue to grow and adjust or replace it accordingly. Suggestions: When selecting a collar size for your lab puppy, it is a good idea to consult with a veterinarian or a professional dog trainer for additional guidance. They can provide personalized advice based on your puppy's breed, age, and growth rate. Remember to always prioritize your lab puppy's comfort and pet safety when choosing a collar. Measuring the Neck Size of the Lab Puppy Measuring the neck size of a lab puppy is a crucial step in selecting the appropriate collar size. Here is a step-by-step manual on accurately measuring the neck size: Ensure that the lab puppy is calm and comfortable before measuring their neck size. Utilize a soft measuring tape or a piece of string to measure around the puppy's neck at the base, where the collar will be positioned. Wrap the measuring tape or string snugly around the neck, ensuring it is not too tight or too loose. Take note of the measurement in inches or centimeters, maintaining consistency with the chosen unit of measurement. If you utilized a piece of string, measure its length with a ruler or measuring tape to determine the neck size. Double-check the measurement to ensure its accuracy. Remember that the collar should fit snugly but not be excessively tight or loose. It is important to allow two fingers to comfortably fit between the collar and the puppy's neck. By accurately measuring the neck size, you can select the appropriate collar size for your lab puppy, ensuring both comfort and a proper fit. Guidelines for Choosing the Right Size Collar for a Lab Puppy When it comes to finding the perfect collar for your adorable lab puppy, it's important to keep a few key guidelines in mind. In this section, we'll explore useful tips and tricks to ensure you choose the right size collar that will suit your furry friend's needs. From adjustable collars to selecting a collar with room for growth and ensuring optimal comfort and fit, we've got you covered. Get ready to make your lab puppy the most stylish and comfortable pup in town! Adjustable Collars Adjustable collars are a convenient option when choosing a collar for your lab puppy. They offer flexibility and allow for easy adjustments as your puppy grows. Perfect fit: Adjustable collars provide a perfect fit for your lab puppy's neck comfortably. This ensures that the collar is not too tight, causing discomfort or restricting movement, and not too loose, risking the puppy slipping out of it. Room for growth: Lab puppies grow rapidly, and adjustable collars provide the flexibility to accommodate their changing neck size. As your puppy grows, you can adjust the size of the adjustable collar accordingly, providing a snug fit without the need for frequent collar replacements. Economical option: Investing in adjustable collars eliminates the need to purchase multiple collars as your lab puppy grows. This helps save money in the long run and ensures that you always have a well-fitting collar for your pup. Durable and long-lasting: Adjustable collars are typically made of high-quality materials, ensuring durability and longevity. They are designed to withstand the active lifestyle of lab puppies, making them a reliable choice for everyday use. Easy to clean: Lab puppies are known for their playful and messy nature. Adjustable collars are easy to clean, allowing you to maintain hygiene and keep your puppy looking smart and presentable at all times. When choosing a collar for your lab puppy, consider the convenience and versatility that adjustable collars offer. They provide a customized and comfortable fit, accommodate your puppy's growth, and are a cost-effective choice in the long run. Choosing a Collar with Room for Growth When selecting a collar for your lab puppy, it is crucial to choose one that allows room for growth. To make sure you get the right size, follow these steps: Start by measuring your lab puppy's neck size using a flexible tape measure or a piece of string and a ruler. Wrap the measuring tape or string around the base of the neck, where the collar will sit. Remember to leave a finger's width of space for comfort. Once you have the measurement of the neck size, add an extra inches to allow for growth. This ensures that the collar will fit comfortably as your lab puppy grows. Look for adjustable collars with multiple holes or a sliding mechanism that can easily be adjusted as your lab puppy develops. Consider collars made from lightweight and durable materials like nylon or leather. These materials can withstand the wear and tear that comes with a growing lab puppy. Ensure that the collar is neither too tight nor too loose when fastened. It should fit snugly around your lab puppy's neck, allowing freedom of movement without causing any discomfort. Pro-tip: Keep checking and adjusting the collar as your lab puppy grows to ensure a proper fit and prevent any potential discomfort or accidents. Ensuring Comfort and Proper Fit Ensuring comfort and proper fit is crucial when choosing a collar for a lab puppy. Here are some guidelines to follow: Choose a collar made of soft and lightweight material. It should be comfortable for the puppy to wear without causing any irritation or chafing. Ensure that the collar is adjustable. This will allow you to find the perfect fit for your lab puppy as it grows. Select a collar with a buckle or snap closure that is easy to fasten and secure. Avoid collars with complicated or hard-to-use closures. Check that the collar is not too tight or too loose. It should fit snugly around the puppy's neck without restricting their movement or causing discomfort. Regularly check the collar to make sure it remains properly fitted as the puppy grows. Adjust the collar accordingly to ensure a comfortable fit at all times. Recommended Collar Sizes for Lab Puppies at Different Ages When it comes to choosing the right collar size for your lab puppy, it's important to consider their age and growth. Collar Sizes for Lab Puppies up to 3 Months Collar sizes for lab puppies up to 3 months are determined by their age and weight. Lab puppies up to 3 months of age are typically smaller and lighter compared to older puppies. It is essential to choose a collar that fits a lab puppy neither too tightly nor too loosely. An adjustable collar is recommended to accommodate the puppy's growth. Ensure that the collar is comfortable and does not cause any discomfort or irritation to the puppy's neck. Before selecting a collar, accurately measure the puppy's neck size. Collars with room for growth are ideal for lab puppies up to 3 months as they experience rapid growth during this stage. To determine the appropriate collar size, consult the breed standards and average sizes for lab puppies. Consider the lab puppy's weight and neck size when selecting the collar size. Collar Sizes for Lab Puppies from 3 to 6 Months When choosing collar sizes for Labrador puppies aged 3 to 6 months, it is important to consider their growth and comfort. Here is a table outlining the recommended collar sizes based on the weight of the lab puppies: Weight Range. Collar, Harness, Or Both? Lab puppies start tiny but grow up extremely fast. Every pup grows up at its own tempo. If it has started to get too constricting at that point — either loosen it up if possible or get a new collar. If you get a collar with a lot of resizing leeway, it can last you a few months. This is very easy to judge if you just stick a couple of fingers under the collar. The risk of keeping an overly loose collar on your dog should be clear — the dog will be able to back out of the collar. Many others, however, including a lot of labs, love to back out of their collars whenever possible. Adult Labrador Neck Size So, what size collar will your lab puppy end up wearing when it grows up? If your puppy is smaller than average it may grow into a smaller-than-average adult lab or it may just be a slow grower. Different Types Of Dog Collars For Labs The main non-cosmetic differences between dog collars are in the materials and the fastening mechanism. Plus, they always allow for multiple different size settings. As for materials, these are the basics: Metal — a lot of people love metal, especially for mid-sized to large breeds like Labradors. Leather — this is the classic choice for dog collars. Its main drawback is that it can get stinky over time. This is especially true if your dog loves to swim and Labrador retrievers are a water dog breed. Fabric collars can come in a lot of different designs and compositions. Some of the more colorful ones are especially fun for puppies. Synthetic polyurethane-type materials — these intuitively put off some people but are an excellent choice. Training collars used to be very popular at one point for both puppies and adult dogs. These collars take many different forms — they can be pronged, pinching, and electro-shock collars. Their idea is simple — teach your dog not to pull on its leash with the negative reinforcements of the collar. Dog harnesses today are viewed as a better and safer alternative to training collars. These are used mostly for training and for adult dogs, however. You should start using those as soon as your pup is big enough. When it comes to puppies, particularly short-haired breeds, you should look for a soft collar made of a non-abrasive material. Fabric collars are a good option, and collars made from a breathable fabric that is also machine washable are even better. When should a puppy wear a collar? Even if your puppy is still too young to go outside for walks, getting them used to wearing a collar is a good idea and will prevent any tiny tantrums further down the road! Collars should be worn most of the time, even around the house, but taking it off every so often to let the skin breathe is recommended. Try leaving the collar off for a couple of hours every time you brush or bathe them. Can an 8-week-old puppy wear a collar? Responsible breeders recommend puppies should not be brought home until 8 weeks old, and you can start getting them used to their collar shortly after this. It may be a good idea to let them settle into their new environment before introducing something new, but getting them used to their collar in their second week at home is a good idea. Should puppies wear collars at night? Most dog collars are designed to be non-abrasive, and perfectly safe for pups and older dogs to sleep in. This can also help puppies get adjusted to wearing a collar for the majority of the time. However, many vets also recommend including a contact telephone number, in the event your dog goes missing. Although microchipping has been mandatory for pet dogs since , tags are still a legal requirement and provide a quicker way to get in contact with you if your dog is found, without their microchip needing to be scanned first. We hope our puppy collar size guide has been helpful, as well as our dog collar FAQs! If you enjoyed our puppy collar size guide, you might like our other article, What do I need for a New Puppy? It can be challenging to understand where to begin! Labrador Puppy Collars are available in a wide range of colours and sizes. Your puppy will have a comfortable, stylish collar with your name on it. Find the perfect size and colour dog collar for your new Labrador, with more durable, comfortable, and fashionable. Our labrador puppy collar size is one step guide for you. Measure The Neck Size Of Your Lab Puppy It varies from puppy to puppy in terms of neck size, in the manner of how people vary in terms of their physical characteristics like size and shape. You can use this guide to figure out what collar fits your pup. You should always measure the neck of your lab pup rather than guessing its size to ensure a perfect fit. Simply start measuring from his head down a couple of inches and then add an extra inch. It will be easier to pick the right collar size for your labrador puppy if you know what to look for. Numerous aesthetically pleasing, durable, and cost-effective collars are available to choose from. A variety of materials, such as leather, nylon, and cotton, are available. You can also get a breakaway collar that lights up at night to make sure your puppy or dog is safe. It is also possible to find no-pull collars which are extremely effective in preventing a hyper-active puppy from yanking out of control while also teaching them how to walk properly. With a few of the top collars for lab puppies available on the market today, we have taken the time to cut through the clutter and provide you with a selection of well-made, durable, and highly-rated collars. As there are two different types of collars you can use on your canine companion. The collar you choose depends on your personal preference and budget. And if your lab loves swimming, then use cotton collars. These cotton waterproof collars contain polyurethane-like synthetic materials. In addition to being odor-resistant, waterproof collars are easily washable. Our favorite thing about them is that they are usually bright in color, which is something we love about them. Leather Collar — This is a luxurious and traditional collar for dogs that offers the perfect balance of functionality and style. In spite of their higher cost, a leather collar is likely to last for many years to come. Keep in mind that you should only buy a collar made of genuine leather. The leather bonded together consists of scrap leather, which glued together using an adhesive. Although the leather of this type might resemble the feel and appearance of genuine leather, it provides less durability and is dreadful in quality. Dogs, especially those with thick coats that tend to matt around collars, generally preferred to wear collars made of rolled leather. You can choose from a wide range of color choices, designs, and sizes. Lab puppies can wear these on walks as well as at home. The nylon collar is a standard collar that can be worn for many purposes. Neoprene Collar — Neoprene is an extremely flexible rubber material used to make wetsuits, bolstered with nylon mesh to provide extra durability, flexibility, and strength. If your dog spends a lot of time in the water, a neoprene collar is a perfect choice. Biothane Collar — Dogs who enjoy swimming will love biothane collars too. Contains non-toxic materials composed of polyester weave and powder coatings composed of polyurethane or polyvinyl. Neoprene and leather collars are expensive, while biothane collars are more comfortable, easier to wear, and more affordable. A collar needs to be checked every two to three weeks. Look for indentations and signs of wear and tear. The collar should replaced immediately when you notice any defect that may upset the dog or endanger his safety. If it does, your dog will suffer from pain and discomfort. When your puppy is indoors, it is best to remove its collar. It attracts bacteria when it is damp. Additionally, a dog collar not being clipped onto furniture or choking hazards in a crate will be avoided. As a general rule, puppies should be taught to wear a collar and leash around 10 weeks of age. As a result, you will be able to get started in a week or so after they have settled in. FAQs Question 1: Do lab puppies always need to wear collars? Although there are some puppies who seem perfectly happy to wear a neck collar, it is important to consider that wearing one for prolonged periods of time could harm their coat and their skin due to the friction created by the collar. Question 2: Which collar size is best for my puppy? For dogs under 10 pounds, a collar up to 12 inches long is adequate. The collar length should be from 13 to 18 inches for dogs between 26 and 55 pounds. Question 3: Are dogs better off with wide collars? There are many benefits to using wide collars for your dog, including strolling, training , and even playing with. Wider dog collars provide your pup with a better fit around the neck while walking or training. For dogs that like to play rough, a wide collar can provide a better level of safety from other dogs or potential neck injuries. Question 4: Does my labrador puppy need a smaller collar? While many people will just go ahead and get the next size up, that could be a mistake. Make sure you choose a collar that will fit your puppy as he grows into adulthood. Post navigation. It is all rather bewildering, but there is no need to worry! This is where you can find the answers to those questions, and get some ideas and inspiration too. Collars are a great way to identify similar Lab puppies in a litter Labrador Dog Collars and the Law In many parts of the world, dogs must legally wear a collar when out in public. This is usually a disk attached to the collar, with your phone number and name on it. Collars can display IDs in a number of different ways. Some collars come with a brass or stainless steel plate attached to the surface, others have a metal ring for you to attach a tag onto. Others will embroider the ID into fabric or tool it into leather. Are Personalized Dog Collars Safe? But others feel that this is a dangerous thing to do. But most dogs are always supervised when outdoors, and many dogs are also microchipped so proof of ownership is more easily accomplished. Unless your dog is very friendly and spends time outdoors on his own, having his name on his collar is unlikely to put him at risk. Collars as a Fashion Statement A collar is the traditional way of attaching a restraint to a dog, for the purposes of keeping him safe. Before harnesses were invented this was an essential feature of life in a modern world, where cars and other hazards are everywhere. But in many homes and families, a collar has become something of a fashion statement too. A whole industry has arisen to meet the demand for different fabrics and styles. Training Collars for Labs Many people look on a collar, as an aid to training their dog how to walk on a leash. A way to get their dog to tread along nicely next to them, without dragging or pulling them along. They want to choose a collar that will best help them in this goal. Prong collars and pinch collars have been designed that are uncomfortable and even painful when a dog leans into them. The problem of course, is that pulling is often very rewarding for a dog he gets nearer to the destination he likes. So collars usually have to be quite painful if they are to successfully stop the pulling. Collars that can be used to pinch and choke dogs, are becoming less popular, as more and more dog owners want to train without using unpleasant aversives. And fortunately there are now excellent ways of teaching a dog to walk nicely without using collars at all. And in the meantime you might find it helpful to have a strong pulling dog fitted with a body harness that will give you more control without damaging his neck. Before you set off on a Labrador collar shopping expedition, you will need to think about sizes. And to know your Labrador neck size. Labrador Collar Size Not all collars are made in sizes large enough for an adult Lab. And one adult Lab will not have the same neck size as another. So you do need to whip out your tape measure in order to avoid disappointment Both my Labs have an 18 inch neck. They are medium build slim Labradors. But it really is best to measure. If you find it difficult to keep your dog still, just get someone to dip their fingers in some butter and let the dog lick it off while you take his measurements! Collars for adult Labs are usually about an inch wide — this allows enough space for a small ID plaque if desired. What Size Collar for a Lab Puppy? If you buy a puppy collar two or three inches longer than this it will last him a few weeks. Puppy collars are usually narrower than adult collars, half an inch is fine. And they come in some very cute designs. We have put together a collection of our favorite puppy collars to inspire you! So what kind of collar should you buy? Which Labrador Collar Style? We recommend that you buy your Labrador a flat collar with a buckle fastener. You can choose one to suit your taste and wallet. Especially if your Lab likes to swim. You can buy waterproof collars made from synthetic polyurethane type materials. Waterproof collars tend to resist odor and are easy to clean. They often come in striking bright colors — we love them and think they look cool! But not so loose that he can back out of it. You should be able to fit two or three fingers under it quite easily, but not much more. A collar that is too loose can be slipped by a lively dog very easily. It is also worth considering alternative forms of restraint. Especially for puppies and lively young dogs that can get very sore necks if leashed to a collar. Buying a Harness The breadth of choice in body harnesses for dogs has burgeoned in the last couple of years as people discover how great they are. A body harness is an excellent way to restrain a young dog that has not been taught to walk to heel. It has several advantages over a collar. It is almost impossible for the dog to slip out of. And most importantly, a puppy that wears a harness is not learning to lean into or pull, on his collar. However, we selected them for inclusion independently, and all of the views expressed in this article are our own.

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how much english bulldog puppies cost - What Is a Parti Poodle? Are Parti Poodles Purebred? Aside from its color, it has the same physical and behavioral traits as the regular poodle. It is known for its dense and curly fur and its intelligence and loyalty. Parti Poodles are just like the ones you already know and love, with a unique color combination — primarily white, with another color of either black, apricot, silver, cafe au lait, cream, or red. While the combination is usually half of each color, the patterns can vary per dog, so no two parti Poodles ever look alike. While there are other types of multi-colored Poodles , including mismarks, ticking, and tuxedo, parti Poodles are the most popular kind. In fact, it was the original coloring of the Poodle before solid-colored ones rose to prominence and became widely accepted. They may or may not be purebred. Parti Poodle Appearance? This secondary color often occurs in dark patches over the eyes and ears and as spots in the body. This distinction sets them apart from other multi-colored Poodles. The size of a parti Poodle can vary. The standard parti Poodle grows beyond 15 inches and weighs anywhere between 40 and 70 pounds. The mini parti Poodle grows between 10 and 15 inches and weighs between 10 and 20 pounds. Meanwhile, the toy parti Poodle is smaller than 10 inches and can be as light as 5 pounds. Phantom Poodles and parti Poodles share similar characteristics that make them easily mistaken for each other. They both have two colors, and phantom Poodles are usually classified as a subset of parti Poodles. The phantom Poodle , on the other hand, gets patches specifically on the muzzle, the chin, the eyebrows, the paws, and the butt. The pattern is similar to what you find on Dobermans, Dachshunds, Yorkies, and Terriers. The markings of the parti Poodle are caused by a gene called the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor MITF , which also influences other factors such as eye color and skin color. To get a parti Poodle, you need to breed two parti Poodles. Image credit: toran. How fast their fur color fades is dependent on what color they start with and their genetics. Parti Poodles with a secondary color of black may eventually fade into a blue color, while true blacks will stay black. Meanwhile, red fur may clear into something more apricot or even lighter, like cream. Are Parti Poodles Rare? Parti Poodles are not rare, but they tend to be less common than their solid-colored friends. Despite being the original looks of a Poodle, one-color Poodles became more widely accepted and recognized, especially in conformity dog shows by the biggest kennel clubs around the world. Over the years, this has encouraged breeders to focus on solid-colored Poodles, which has led to parti Poodles being bred less. However, they are rising in popularity, and more breeders are now producing them. Parti Poodle Color Combinations With Pictures While no two parti Poodles will ever look alike, there are several popular parti Poodle color combinations. Black-and-white is one of the most striking mixtures because of the contrast in their colors. On the other hand, cream-and-white is more subtle. Other parti-color combinations include white-and-gray, white-and-apricot, white-and-silver, and white-and-brown. Rarer color combinations include blue-and-white and red-and-white. Red, especially, is one of the newest colors in the breed, so producing them for either a one-colored Poodle or a parti Poodle has been elusive. White and Cream Parti Poodle Image credit: good. They even have their own designated marking codes. However, they can only join obedience and agility shows and are excluded from conformation shows. Since , they have been allowed in conformation shows. Parti Poodle Temperament and Personality Image credit: pan. They are easily trained, especially when they are still parti Poodle puppies. This makes them one of the best breeds for new dog owners to start with. Since they love company, parti Poodles will love being part of a household and will be intensely loyal to their owners. Parti Poodles are active and playful, so owners should make time to take them out on walks, a playdate at the park, or even a day at the beach. However, they can be naturally intuitive, so owners need to invest in obedience training to keep them in check. My very own white and apricot parti Poodle has one of the best temperaments in my pack. It is very patient, affectionate, and loves to cuddle. It is always excited about my presence and loves to follow me around. Just like most dogs, though, socialization is important for a parti Poodle so they can get used to the company of other people and dogs in public. Go for a quality brand of dry kibble, which is easy on their stomach and good for teeth and gums. Home-cooked meals will also be ideal for your dog. Choose proteins such as beef, salmon, and chicken; vegetables like spinach, carrots, and potatoes; eggs and cheese. To avoid canine bloat, consider feeding your dog smaller meals throughout the day instead of a big meal once a day. Cleaning and Grooming Parti Poodles require regular maintenance, especially if you plan on having them look like the classic Poodle with a distinctive haircut. Even if you prefer not to, their coats need to be brushed daily so they can be mat-free. Parti Poodles require frequent bathing more than some other dog breeds to keep them hygienic. Take care not to rub shampoo or the towel on their fur to prevent clumps. Rinse them thoroughly to avoid any skin infections. Ears should also be cleaned regularly since their ears drop down and are thus more prone to infections. Their teeth should also be brushed to prevent dental problems, and their nails trimmed short. Parti Poodles can be great workout buddies. Take them out for a brisk walk or a run every day, or bring them to the park or the beach where they can run around, whether on-leash or off-leash. They are also playful and love a game of catch. Further, parti Poodles are best suited for homes with fenced yards so they can run around and release excess energy as needed. They can adapt to a small apartment or stay indoors most of the time as long as their owners endeavor to take them out for walks and exercise regularly. However, toy parti Poodles and mini parti Poodles may live beyond that. Standard parti Poodles tend to have a slightly shorter life span, although there are many health factors to consider. There are health issues relatively common to parti Poodles, most of them often similar to the solid-colored Poodle and other large-breed dogs: Gastric Dilatation and Volvulus GDV : GDV is a common issue often seen in standard parti Poodles. Also known as canine bloat, this condition usually affects big breeds, especially dogs with deep chests. This condition manifests through an enlarged stomach and erratic behavior and can easily turn fatal when dogs are not rushed to the vet. This disease causes weakness, abdominal pain, and weight loss, among other symptoms. However, it can be managed when caught early. Hypothyroidism: Parti poodles are also prone to hypothyroidism. Symptoms include weight gain without an increase in appetite, lethargy, dryness of their skin or coat, and behavioral changes. Thyroid problems can be managed accordingly. These diseases may be hereditary or develop on their own. Puppy Prices and Expenses Owning a parti Poodle can be costly, most especially a purebred one. Alternately, you can get parti Poodles cheaper — or even free if you find one up for adoption or rehoming at your nearest animal shelter. Here are some of the initial expenses you need to prepare for when acquiring a part Poodle: Type of Expense. The combination of white and any of those colors above make up for Parti Poodles. Parti Poodles may not be as common as compared to standard Poodles but some of their color combinations are so rare. When Parti Poodles are still young, the blending of their coat colors primary vs. As the dog ages, the coat color on specific areas of its body will be finalized until they reach adulthood. If you try combining two parts poodles, the color combination of the litter would be completely different from each other. The cause of these color variances in this dog is due to the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor MITF gene. Below is some other variance of multi-colored Poodles, each of which has distinctive characteristics which identify one from another. Some of the ones listed below are recognized in some events initiated by AKC. Interestingly, a Poodle with this genetic makeup will consistently pass on one copy of the "sp" allele to all of its offspring, making it a hereditary trait that can be passed down to the next generation. Then, the rest of its body is covered in the secondary color. Mismark poodles are also called by breeders Abstract poodles. Another way to distinguish these two is through their skin color. The skin Mismark poodle, on the other hand, follows the color of its primary coat. Multi-Patterned Poodles Colors These are Poodles having multi-colored coats or more than 1 of the accepted colored color patterns. At present, this type of breed is not yet accepted by American Kennel Clubs. Tuxedo Poodles Think of a Poodle in a tuxedo suit. This is how their coat is patterned giving them that distinctive look. Their special markings may be placed on different parts of their body. You will notice the markings in areas such as their neck, chest, and legs. These are spots or dots one would see on a Poodle's white coat. These posts are black or darker in color and can be regarded as dirt. This is the reason why breeders do not like to use dogs with ticking. The litter could end up with coats looking dirty. Origins of the Poodle According to history, the Poodles came from Germany. Originally used as hunting dogs, Poodles are considered one of the favorite pets these days. Over time, poodles were bred into smaller-sized and distinctive coat coverings. The French royalty even considered it a favored pet. Contrary to popular belief, it is the Parti Poodles that have a rich history. According to an article published by Huxtable the Poodle, Parti Poodles are often depicted in paintings and art during the ss. Even the first ever dog book published in the United States of America has contained information about Parti Poodles. Since most people preferred the Poodle in solid color, breeders would no longer register litters that are two-colored. There is no exact publication supporting where the name came from. There are some write-ups that state that Poodles were bred in the s by French people. The breed had gained a strong following across the European border. Its popularity crossed over the United States and other Asian countries too. The popularity of the Parti Poodle in the 18th and 19th centuries In the s and s owning a Parti Poodle meant that you were either part of the French royalty or a social aristocrat. It has become a status symbol. People with wealth and power are seen owning this dog breed. During this time, European aristocrats would use Parti Poodles during hunting season. Given the popularity of these dogs and their association with the rich and famous, Parti Poodles earned its place in the world of arts, and literature during this period. The decline of the Parti Poodle in the early 20th century In the early 20th, there were other dog breeds slowly taking the spotlight. Breeds such as German Shepherd, and Labrador Retriever have gained popularity causing the decline of the Parti Poodle. Both German Shepherds and Labradors are excellent hunting dogs which were much preferred. The decline in popularity was worsened by the onset of wars where breeding Parti Poodles became uncommon. The resurgence of the Parti Poodle in modern times Despite being on the brink of distinction, Parti Poodles managed to gain back its popularity again. Several factors helped its resurgence. Canine groups recognizing the Parti Poodles Allowing this dog breed to join shows and competition Increase in awareness and appreciation from dog lovers How Are Parti Poodles Bred Selective Breeding is a way in which Parti Poodles are bred. Credible breeders will choose which parents to use following the desired coat pattern. Ethical guidelines are what we practice at Stokeshire. Dogs also undergo genetic testing to avoid any medical issues being passed on to their litters. But how the litter will look is undetermined as their coat colors and markings will be different from one another. At present, particolored ones are still restricted from joining conformation shows or events organized by AKC. Although, they can still be registered in obedience and agility shows. UKC is considered the second-largest kennel organization in the United States. How Long Do Parti Poodles Live Life expectancy is years Some Parti Poodles may live shorter or longer depending on their genetic makeup, diet, exercise, and overall well-being. Some may be susceptible to health risks such as: Hip dysplasia. Standard Poodles are the largest Poodles, whereas teacup Poodles are the smallest. Are Parti Poodles purebred? Yes, Parti Poodles are as purebred as any solid-colored Poodle. Unlike merle or piebald, the gene responsible for Parti-color has always been naturally present among Poodles. Early paintings depicting Poodles often showed them in Parti colors. Unfortunately, the trend of having solid-colored Poodles took over, and breeders would eliminate any Parti Poodle pups to keep them from propagating. However, their recent demand has encouraged breeders to produce more Parti Poodles. What does a Parti Poodle look like? A Parti Poodle has a predominantly white coat with patches of another color. These patches are random, which means no two Parti Poodles are alike. Like fingerprints on humans, Parti patterns are unique to each Poodle. On a true Parti Poodle, the spots are distinct, abstract, and bigger than dots. However, they are not eligible for AKC-organized beauty shows. The UK-based kennel club allows Parti Poodles to compete in all kinds of shows. The gene is recessive, meaning you need two Parti parents to get a Parti Poodle pup. Parti Poodle coat colors The best thing about a Parti-colored coat is its randomness. Since each Parti-colored Poodle is unique, you have numerous color and pattern combinations to choose from. Here are some popular coat colors Parti Poodles come in. Phantom Parti Poodle Phantom Poodles are often confused with Parti Poodles since they both refer to a solid coat with spots of another color. However, the base coat of a phantom Poodle can be of any color, whereas that of a Parti Poodle is always white. A Phantom Parti Poodle would have a white base coat and a secondary color. On top of that, he would also have markings of a third color on the muzzle, chin, eyebrows, throat, chest, legs, and paws. Apricot also fades under excessive sun exposure, which makes apricot Parti Poodles even harder to come by. A popular variation of this coat is a tuxedo coat. A red Parti standard Poodle has bright reddish-brown patches on a white base coat color. They have patches of bright orange or reddish-brown fur as the secondary color. Sable Parti Poodles may still have darker hair on some parts of their bodies. Their base color is white, and brown exists as a secondary color. Chocolate Parti Poodle Chocolate is a unique color that results from a dilution gene. Tri-color Parti Poodles are usually mixed, but they can also be purebred. Phantom Parti Poodles are purebred tri-color Poodles with a white base coat, a secondary color, and a third color in the form of markings at specific points. Brindle Parti Poodle Brindle Parti Poodles are unique because their secondary color is a mix of two colors. Brindle refers to a tiger-like pattern of vertical stripes of another color over a dark base color. However, a merle coat has several characteristics that separate it from Parti coat. Merle also carries tiny dots or ticking, whereas Parti-color carries larger patches. Do Parti Poodles coat color fade as they grow? Parti Poodles experience color fading like their solid counterparts. Save Big On Dog Essentials! Parti Poodle size, height, and weight Parti Poodles come in three sizes, but there are two additional categories. First, we have the official standard, toy, and mini Parti Poodle. Kennel clubs usually recognize the toy, mini, and standard Parti Poodle size. What makes this Poodle so special? Poodles most commonly are solid-colored. They are all-black, all-white, all-red, apricot etc. While it is quite rare, it does happen that Poodles are born with large patches of white. The other part can be any of the common Poodle colors: blue, brown, apricot and others. The patching on Parti Poodles is irregular and random. Every one looks unique, and if you have a Parti Poodle you indeed have a one-of-a-kind dog. Because this type of pattern pops up randomly when breeding Poodles, it is very sought-after. Temperament Like all Poodles these dogs are highly intelligent and attach themselves closely to one person. They require daily exercise and interaction in order to be happy and well-mannered. A bored Poodle is likely to become destructive or show unwanted behaviors such as separation anxiety or reactivity. Poodles are not known to do well when left alone for long periods of time. If you work a job with long hours or like to travel to weekend trips, this is probably not the right dog for you. Training your Parti Poodle Like all Poodles, Parti Poodles are highly intelligent and require daily mental and physical exercise. Training your dog from am early age is the best way to turn him into a well-behaved adult dog that is a joy to have around! You should only use positive reinforcement methods to work with your dog. Plenty of treats are the best way to show him how you would like him to behave. If your Poodle is food-drive, you can even use his regular dog food for training. The most important skills to teach your Parti Poodle are: Coming when called this could be life-saving one day! Walking well on a leash Not running out the door Sitting politely when asked Not jumping up at people If you have small animals in your home, work a lot on impulse control and managing prey drive. With the right training, Poodles can live with cats in harmony. Grooming Many owners pick Poodles and their mixes for their hypoallergenic qualities and their non-shedding coat. Matting can happen quickly in their dense, coarse coat, and it can become so bad that the dog needs to be shaved down to the skin. Every Poodle owner should start bringing their dog to a groomer from puppyhood on — that way the coat is always well-maintained and looking great. Where did Parti Poodles come from? Curiously, Parti Poodles actually are not a novel fad, but a very old form of Poodles. Many paintings and drawings of Poodles in the s and earlier clearly show brown-and-white or black-and-white dogs. The most famous early record of Parti Poodles is from , when Rembrandt was painted with his own brown-and-white Poodle. As dog shows and breeding for certain looks became more popular, parti became an unwanted coloring of the breed. The AKC does not allow them to be shown, so many breeders actually took to culling them right after birth. Are Parti Poodles purebred? Parti Poodles can pop up in litters of two purebred, solid-colored Poodles. While Parti is common in many kinds of Doodle mixes such as the Sheepadoodle or Bernedoodle , it can also be seen in purebred Poodles. It is possible to have a litter consisting of solid colored puppies with one Parti Poodle in the mix — or a litter that has half solid colored puppies and half patched pups, or even a litter that only has Parti-colored puppies. Because this beautiful pattern is becoming more and more popular though, some breeders are starting to specifically select and breed Parti Poodles. Can you show Parti Poodles? The American Kennel Club currently does not allow them at conformation shows. This however does not mean that they cannot be registered. While Parti Poodles are not popular among dog show enthusiasts for this reason, they are very sought-after by many pet dog owners and often actually sold quicker than the solid-colored Poodles that can be entered in conformation shows. If you are planning on attending a conformation show with your Poodle, you should stick to solid white, brown, apricot, blue or black Poodles. How long do Parti Poodles live? Parti Poodles live just as long as their solid-colored counterparts. For a Standard Poodle this is around 13 years, for a Miniature Poodle 15 years and for a Toy Poodle as much as 17 years. Small dogs tend to live longer lives than larger ones, this holds true in any breed or mix Their coloring does not affect their lifespan or health in any way. It is just a different look! What is the difference between a Parti Poodle and a Phantom Poodle? A Phantom Poodle has a coat of a solid color and bits of a secondary color. This secondary color however only covers small parts of the body. Many Phantom Poodles look similar in appearance. The colors are more uneven and the pattern will look random and always unique. Are Parti Poodles more expensive? As always, the demand can and will determine the price. Many dog owners are looking for Parti Poodles because they are so exotic and cool-looking. Many breeders sell Parti Poodles for higher prices than solid-colored ones. In many dog breeds the rare colors sell for higher prices. You should always make sure that the breeder you pick is reputable and does not only breed for a certain color or pattering. Ask the breeder if the parents have health tests and reliable temperaments. It is very important that the parents also have calm and friendly demeanors and are genetically healthy. Which color should you get? Whether you get a Parti Poodle, a solid-colored Poodle or a Phantom Poodle will come down to personal preference. The temperament and disposition of the dogs is the same regardless of the coloring. Do not make color your only criterion when choosing a puppy though: You should always make sure that the puppy is healthy, has a friendly character and fits in well with your family. If however you are looking for a uniquely colored companion dog who will be by your side anytime, any place, the Parti Poodle is the dog for you! Unleash the real potential of your companion! We will email you daily with training tips, ideas and videos. This is an introductory course into our training philosophy. You will get customized video lessons based on your training goals — and you can implement them in just 5 minutes a day. We are currently raising gorgeous multi colored Parti Poodles and solid colored in miniature and soon, toy sizes. We started in standards but have made the move to smaller sizes. We feel very passionate about health testing, showing, and titling our poodles for our Poodle breeder program though we do give preference to pet puppy homes. More Than Amazing Color While we understand color is part of what makes Parti Poodles so popular, we want you to know that we place high emphasis on temperament and type or build, in our partis and well as solids, so your puppy will grow into a eye catching and distinguished adult that is as sweet and intelligent as any poodle should be. Conformation Show Titles We are proud of our show titles! We understand families searching for a pet do not need a show dog, we do this so families know that what they have purchased from us represents a great amount of knowledge and hard work. We test our Poodles against other great dogs so that we can know our breeding dogs are worthy of your family both in soundness of temperament and that they truly are representations of their breed. We do give preference to pet homes for our puppies. Testament to Temperament We have donated to date five puppies for service dog training and so far, all of our candidates have graduated and gone on to service work! We feel this is a real testament to what we strive to produce for families that want to purchase a puppy from MnJ- a great, stable, sweet and social family member. We are currently raising gorgeous multi colored Parti Poodles and solid colored in small standard and miniature sizes. While many will think we have Moyen Poodles, in truth the FCI breed standard for this size is very misunderstood so we avoid using a marketing term. Past Puppies Just a few of our past puppies so you can get an idea of what we offer!

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how much english bulldog puppies cost - Eating, sleeping and staying warm are the three primary needs of puppies, and most of these are taken care of by their mother. It is important that newborn boxer puppies stay with their mother for the first eight weeks of their lives. In the first 24 to 36 hours of their lives, boxer puppies will be exposed to the colostrum in their mother's milk; it's important in them receiving lifesaving antibodies and nutrients. The average weight of a newborn boxer puppy is 1 pound, and during his first few weeks he will grow rapidly. At this time they will begin to play with litter-mates. At 4 weeks, boxer puppies can be introduced to wet commercial food, although they will still nurse as well. Introduce them to as many toys and sounds as possible, to allow them to adjust at a young age. Most newborn puppies are taken to the vet for the first time between 6 and 8 weeks of age, getting their first rounds of shots and having a general checkup. At 7 and 8 weeks, they are no longer nursing and are eating a mix of wet and dry puppy food. By this time they have become well-socialized and are on their way to being happy, trained pups. They can eat solid puppy food and begin to be house-trained. You can help your new boxer puppy adjust to his new home by bringing home some blankets or toys that smell like his litter-mates; these will remind him of his first few weeks of life. More Articles. Select Options How to treat your newborn Boxers during their first 8 weeks If you have a litter of a newborn Boxer puppies you should prepare to be close to them at least for 8 first weeks of their life. It is the crucial time when you have to be ready for any situation, as it is the time when the health of your puppy is shaped. Day 1 During this day mother-dog will feed her babies with Colostrum. This is a milky liquid that contains a lot of nutrients, providing the puppies with vital antibodies. This day can be called a " sleepy day", as the puppies will sleep almost all the time when not drinking. If the puppies' bodies are warm, they breathe naturally and make soft noises, they are full and fine. On the first day the puppies cannot eliminate waists from their organism themselves yet, so their mother will lick them to stimulate this process. Boxer puppies have their eyes still closed and it will stay this way for days. The umbilical cord still remains, as it is rather damp and not ready to fall off. Day 2 On this day your puppies can lose weight. Don't be afraid, it is absolutely normal. However, take care that the larger puppies don't push the weaker puppies off the nipple. Day 3 If you decided to dock your puppies' tails, it is the best day to do it. Consult with your vet and consider carefully your decision. It is also the day when the cord is dry enough to fall off. On this day you should remove the dewclaws, if you decided to do so. Remember, that it should be done only by your experienced veterinarian. Week 1 During this week you should weigh your puppy each day. Take a basket lined with a soft and clean towel and measure it first. Then put the puppy into the basket. Thus, you will be able to calculate accurate number. Each day your puppies must gain weight. If there is no increase, contact your vet immediately. The nails should be trimmed each day as they grow very quickly. Please, do it very carefully for not to hurt your dog. You must trim off only a small "hook" of the nail. Week 2 It is the time when your small Boxers begin to open their eyes. It is a slow process so be patient. The puppies still hold close to their mom, but they already make their attempts to communicate with you. Week 3 It is a "chatting time". Now the puppies should fully open their eyes. The ear canal is also should be fully formed so the small Boxers start hearing their voices and barking. Be ready that your little travelers will make an attempts to leave their place. Now they have everything to learn the world better! Although it is not desirable to allow them to run about the house as they can harm themselves. Connect one or more boxes together, thus, making a big "playing ground". This way, your puppies will have enough place to communicate and play with each other. And it will be a safe place! Week 4 On the 4th week you may start feeding your puppies with solid food. Make a mixture containing 14 of puppy dog food and 34 of water. Begin with small amounts. You should habituate your puppies to solid food gradually and slowly as their digestive system cannot accept it at once. You can also remove extra heating. The temperature in the room must be 72 F 23 C. Week 5 It is the time when you can give toys to your puppies. You still have to check their weight, but not necessarily each day. Normal weight should vary between 2 lbs. Gradually make the food more solid by adding more puppy dog food and less water. Mother-dog is tired and exhausted so she would like to spend less time with her children. It is a perfect time for your interaction with the puppies. They will be very happy to play with you. Week 6 On the 6th week you may introduce your puppies a new world. Be ready that your small Boxers will become more active and start eating a lot. However, it is still too early for training. It is better to involve them into outdoor walkings. Try to walk them separately and beware of other dogs. Your puppies will be really fascinated to feel the warmth of the sun and soft touch of the grass! Week 7 You Boxer puppies do not require nursing any more. It is a great time when they grew up enough to involve you in their quite active games. Outdoor walks must become a daily routine. You should also take mother-dog with you as well. She will start educating her children all necessary skills. This week is perfect to pass to the usual routine of dog feeding, grooming, exercise and playing. Week 8 During this week the puppies should have their first vaccinations. If you are not going to keep all the puppies, it is a good time to find a new home for them. Make sure that you give them to the kind and loving people, who will take care of their small Boxers. If you are going to keep all or some puppies, you can begin training them as well as falling back into your normal dog care schedule. Boxer Newborn Puppy Care Overview If you have had a litter of Boxer puppies at your home and you are in charge of taking care of a newborn Boxer puppy, much attention must be taken during the first 8 weeks. From the moment of birth until the pups are at least 2 months old, a person must be close by and ready for any situation. Each week will bring new changes and responsibilities. This is a crucial time for care that can shape the health of the dog for its lifetime. How to Know if a Boxer Puppy is Getting Enough Milk The amount of times that a newborn puppy drinks milk from its mother varies from pup to pup. The important aspect is to know if a puppy is receiving enough throughout the day. Sometimes larger newborns will push their way to Mama and smaller puppies may not be getting enough milk. Some puppies may not be strong enough to suckle from smaller nipples some will be larger than others or strong enough to suckle once other pups have done so, and as the milk supply runs lower a puppy needs to suckle harder. How do you know if a Boxer puppy is getting enough milk? It is important to weigh each puppy. This can be done with a baby scale or electronic kitchen scale. Of course, take great care when weighing them. Always use the same type of blanket or cushioning on the scale so that you always get an accurate weight and the blanket does not affect the weight Weigh each puppy 2 times per day: AM and PM Keep careful track of who is who! You can do this by using a dot of white-out fluid applied to the ear in a certain area or other gentle marking method If a puppy shows no weight gain each day, you must take steps to ensure that pup receives more nutrition If a newborn is not gaining weight: Give the larger puppies a supplement Allow the smaller puppy to drink first; the larger puppies will have more strength to suck harder to retrieve their milk If There is a Weight Loss: This can be extremely dangerous. During the first few days it will not be milk; it will be Colostrum. This is a highly nutritional fluid that gives vital antibodies to the puppy. The puppy will sleep almost all the time, when not drinking. The Boxer pup will also make soft noises. As long as the puppy's body is warm and you feel him or her breathing naturally, all should be fine. A puppy this young will not be able to eliminate on its own. The mother will lick the pup to stimulate the expulsion of bowel or urine. Do not be shocked if the dam then eats this. The newborn Boxer puppy will have its eyes closed. They will stay this way for about 10 to 15 days. The umbilical cord will still be damp and certainly not ready to fall off. Day 2 It is perfectly normal for a Boxer puppy to lose weight on its 2nd day of life. Carefully watch for any Boxer newborn that seems to be getting pushed out of the way by other pups and unable to drink from mom. If this is happening, remove the other puppies after they feed and allow the hungry puppy to nurse alone, not bothered by their brothers and sisters. Day 3 Talk to your veterinarian regarding docking the tail , if you have decided to do so. This is often done on day 3. This decision should be carefully thought about. In addition, the Boxer puppy's cord will be dry and just about ready to fall off. Dewclaws, if removed, are usually done so on this day by your dog's experienced veterinarian. Week 1 Puppies should be weighed each day. This can be done by preparing a small basket, lined with a soft and clean towel. The basket can be placed on the scale first, with the weight noted. Then, the puppy should be placed inside the basket. Subtract the weight of the basket to have the exact weight of your Boxer puppy. There should be an increase each day. If not, be sure to immediately contact your dog's veterinarian. Nails grow very quickly and should be trimmed as often as each day if needed. A clotting solution, such as Kwik Stop should be used in case the quick of the nail is cut by accident something to carefully avoid. As the pup matures, many owners find that a grinder tool works much better than a clipper. Some dogs need to learn to tolerate the noise, but once they do, grinding down nails can be fast and easy. Week 2 The eyes of the Boxer puppy may begin to open. This is a slow process in which they will open bigger and for more time each day. Puppies will still be nesting near mom. You should take a bit more time to handle the puppies. This is done to slowly allow the mother to become used to you holding them and for the puppies to begin bonding with you. Week 3 The Boxer puppy's eyes should be completely open. Ears will be open now, as well. The ear canal should be fully formed. This is a bit of a noisy time, as the Boxer puppies will begin to find their "voices" and begin to bark. A 3 week old Boxer will have an urge to leave the whelping box. They will have an instinctual urge to eliminate outside of their resting and sleeping area. One side of the box can be removed, with newspapers placed right outside. A 2nd box can be connected to the 1st whelping box. This will allow the pups to have room to romp around and play. This will also give the Boxer mom time to rest without her puppies jumping all over her. Allowing the puppies to play with each other in a safe and comfortable box is a necessary part of the first socialization they need. Week 4 When does a Boxer puppy begin eating solid food? The weaning process begins just about now, in Week 4. You may also wish to offer the very health option of homemade meals of only fresh ingredients. Start with small amounts. It will be a slow yet steady process for a puppy's digestive system to become used to solid food. Extra heating can be removed. The room should be at a comfortable 72 F .Week 5 You should begin introducing small toys to the puppy. The weight of the puppy should still be checked, this can be done every other day now. Normal weight varies very much but should fall in the range of 2 lbs. Feeding should change slightly, with more puppy food and less water. The dam may want to spend more time away from the puppies. This is where an owner must step in and have much more interaction with the puppies. While still fragile, they should be more than happy to be patted, cuddled and played with. Week 6 A Boxer puppy will be eating quite a bit of puppy dog food than before. Too young to be house trained , this may be a messy week or 2 since bowel movements will become more frequent. While it is too early to expect a puppy to be trained yet, if the weather is warm and day this is a great week to introduce a puppy to the outside world. If you are caring for more than 1 pup, take each one outside separately or 2 at the most. Always keep the Boxer on a leash and beware of any dogs in the area. Allow them to become used to what grass feels like! Allow a pup to enjoy the warmth of the sun and the refreshment of a cool breeze. Week 7 Puppies may not be nursing at all any more. They should be spending quite a bit of time with you and with the other puppies. Going outside should be a daily routine. The dam should be brought outside with the pups; she will use this time to teach them skills. This is the time to be very close to a dog's normal routine of grooming , feeding, exercise and play time. Week 8 This is the week that the puppies will receive their 1st vaccinations. If you will not be keeping the puppies, now is the time to begin the process of finding them a good home. All prospective owners should be evaluated fully. Make home visits if possible. Do not be afraid to ask many questions. If you will be keeping all or some of the puppies, now is the time to fall into normal care for your dog. Housebreaking training can begin as well as falling back into your normal schedule. See Also: Boxer puppy care - Overview of what is needed to take great care of a new Boxer puppy. Boxer dog questions and answers - Round-up of some of the most common issues and care elements with the Boxer breed. Bruno's first week—7 weeks old, 12 pounds, 10 inches from the ground to the highest point of the shoulders the withers. We adopted Bruno when he was 7 weeks old. We had to wait until he was ready to leave the breeder before we could pick him up and bring him home. The breeder's policy was not to let the pups go until they are 8 weeks old, however Bruno's mother had died at birth and therefore he was not going to get that extra week with her and because of a schedule conflict on our end she made an exception. We decided to crate train our new puppy. Most puppies will cry all night in the beginning days because they miss their mother and their littermates. I placed Bruno's crate in the kitchen since it has a floor that can easily be cleaned in case of an accident. Dreading the sound of a crying puppy all night, and knowing this was the first night away from his litter I told two of my children to set up camp on the kitchen floor next to the crate. I did not want to bring the pup into our bed since we do not plan on allowing him on the beds when he is older. It worked, Bruno slept in his crate and didn't yip all night because he was not alone. Allie, our adult Boxer and two of our children were next to his crate. This allowed Bruno to learn what the crate was for, yet not be left alone. Bruno was exhausted from his three-hour car ride home and all of the attention he was receiving. Amazingly enough, he slept until a. I jumped out of bed and ran down to take him out to pee. It was then time for breakfast, another trip outside and playtime. I was up for the day because when he woke up, he needed to be taken right outside to pee and poop. Then he was hungry. After he ate he needed to be taken immediately outside once again to go to the bathroom. After a puppy eats, it stimulates them and the vast majority of time, they need to eliminate, it's a rule of thumb with a puppy. Then he wanted to play. After all, he just woke up! No time like the present to get hyper and want to play. He had three accidents in the last two days, which is very good for a brand new puppy. If Bruno is out of his crate, he needs to be watched constantly. I don't mean watched from across the room, I mean watched as in "hovering over him watched" to ensure he does not pee, poop or chew anything he is not supposed to inside the house. During the day we try not to crate him. He's either being held, hovered over or outside. We are lucky enough to have a very large fenced yard for him. If we did not, he'd have to be walked on a leash to go to the bathroom, which would be much more time-consuming. We have to teach Bruno not to bite our hands and feet. Yes, it is cute now and kind of funny, but when he is pounds it will not be so cute anymore. Rule of thumb with a puppy: if you do not want him doing it when he is full grown, do not allow him to do it when he is a puppy. This includes sitting with him on the furniture. Another thing we must break him from is chasing our cats. Again, it's cute and funny now, but this tiny little Boxer puppy will not be tiny for long and our cats would not appreciate an adult dog chasing them around. Cats are smart, if we allow this to go on they may even decide to take up residence elsewhere. Allie the Boxer meets her new brother. Adult dogs usually do not attack puppies and Allie rather liked the little guy. She did have to put him in his place a few times, which is normal dog behavior. An adult dog will often growl at a puppy to let it know its behavior is not acceptable. For example, when Bruno wanted to play and Allie did not, she let out a small growl and stomped at the pup to tell him enough was enough. Bruno took the hint and backed off his play and started chewing on Allie's collar and dog tags instead. Allie didn't seem to mind getting her tags chewed. She realizes Bruno is just a baby. I am lucky enough to be home with the puppy. If I had to leave for work things would be much more complicated. Bruno is young and he can only hold his pee and poop for a certain amount of time. The point of crate training a dog is you put the dog in a small enough crate so there is only room to comfortably sleep. Dogs do not like to eliminate where they sleep. However, if you leave a young puppy in a crate for too long, they cannot physically hold it in and they must go, even on their bedding. If you allow this to happen, you are going backwards in your housebreaking. If you are going to be gone for many hours a day, longer than the puppy can physically hold it, it is better to pen the dog in an area such as the kitchen where the floors are easy to clean up and place some pee pads down. It is not fair to crate a puppy or dog longer then they can comfortably hold in their waste. It is much harder to housebreak a dog if you are not home. This can really give the puppy a bad start in life and will be no fault of its own when they do not understand the concept of housebreaking. Keep in mind, you cannot yell at a dog for something after the fact, you must catch it in the act. If you do not catch it in the act, your yelling is pointless and confusing to the dog. I am writing this at a. However, he will be up bright and early wanting to eliminate, eat and play.It's now a. Bruno had to go to the bathroom. I walked him outside to the spot where I prefer him to do his business. He peed and I decided to give him some time to see if he had to poop as well; he is still outside and I must go and check on my adorable bundle of a puppy.Bruno is back in his crate. Bruno is yipping. I instinctively go and see him. Goodnight, Bruno, you have a lot to learn my young puppy. Sshhhh, lets only hope he does not keep me up all night because I will have to put up with his yipping in order to teach him what nighttime means. As I type this he is yipping from his crate. I am off to shower and go to bed. I decide to let Bruno get a drink and put him outside with Allie one last time before I go to bed to ensure he does not have to go when I ignore his plea to come out of his crate. When I turned off the shower water I could hear Bruno yipping up a storm. It woke my 9 year old who was almost sleepwalking when she opened his crate to put him outside to pee. I did her the favor of taking the pup out and told her to go back to bed. I put Bruno outside. He stayed out for a few minutes then wanted back in. It is only his third night away from his littermates and he's a tiny pup. After getting the usual puppy kisses all over my neck yeah, nice after my shower, huh? I will give him a few minutes to get good and sleepy then place him back in his crate and hope for the best. Even with all of this work, I look at him like I did my newborn babies; I just love this little puppy! The next morning: 7 weeks and 3 days old a. Bruno's up, hungry and ready to play! Bruno is tired and ready to go back to sleep. But first, his head smells like pee; he must have rolled in it. Time to clean him up and then put him back to sleep. He's taken outside to go to the bathroom and to play. He is now awake for the day but will take numerous naps as puppies need a lot of sleep. We will try not to allow his naps to last for hours on end, as those long sleep periods should be adjusted to the middle of the night hours. This size crate is the perfect size for this puppy. There needs to be room to sleep, stretch out and stand, but not enough room for him to pee in one section and still have a dry place to sleep. It's Bruno's fourth day with us and he has already picked up on the concept that his crate is the place to sleep without being disturbed. We are not being extra quiet as it is the middle of the day and he must get used to noises. Also most of his quiet sleep should be adjusted for the middle of the night. He'll soon wake to eat his lunch, go to the bathroom and play. He'll be awake for a few hours and then need another nap. This crate may be perfect for now, but very soon he'll outgrow it and we'll have to get him a larger one. I let Bruno sleep for two hours and decided it was time to wake him. As soon as he turns his hours around and is sleeping through the night I will no longer worry about the length of his daytime naps. I know he can sleep through the night; he did it the first two nights, but not the third. Bruno's 4th night: 7weeks and 4days old Bruno woke up at a. I came downstairs and put him outside. He peed and pooped. I carried him back to his crate and closed it. He laid down, then a few minutes later he started crying again. I walked back to the kitchen and was about to tell him to be quiet and give him a bone to chew when some motherly instinct inside me opened the crate door. Bruno walked out of his crate and over to my feet then sat down, leaning on my leg. I picked up the little fellow, he put his head on my shoulder and started to go back to sleep. My typical advice would be to put the puppy back in the crate if you are sure he no longer has to go to the bathroom, however I walked over to the rocking chair and rocked him back to sleep. I then put him back in his crate and he woke back up in the process, but this time he went to sleep and stayed asleep until a. He is just like a newborn baby and he's sweet as can be. Bruno's 5th night: 7 weeks and 5 days old Bruno woke up at a. I came down and took him outside and he went to the bathroom. I held him for just a bit until he calmed back down, then put him back in his crate and he fell back to sleep by a. Bruno woke up again. He was ready to play and eat his breakfast. I was beat, so at a. I tried putting him back in his crate to see if he would go back to sleep. It seemed like it just might work. I headed back to bed. At he started yipping just as I lay down. I went back to his crate and held a bone up to him to chew on and talked quietly to him. His eyes started drooping as he half chewed his bone still inside his crate. I waited there for just a bit until his eyes stayed closed for a minute or two, then I went back to bed for an hour. Housebreaking Bruno is now 7 weeks and 5 days old. He seemed to be doing so well with housebreaking. He was either inside being watched, in his crate or outside. As soon as he woke we put him outside to pee. He is not in his crate unless he's sleeping. Bruno was falling asleep so I decided to put him in his crate for a nap. As I leaned down to put him in his crate I smelled something. I felt his blankets and sure enough they were damp. Bruno had been peeing in his crate and sleeping in it! I changed his bedding and he seemed quite pleased. Now I have to figure out how to stop him when he's not doing it in front of me. The crate is not too large, which would have been my first advice to someone, to check the crate size. He is only 7 weeks. Maybe I am not always hearing him wake up in the middle of the night. At this age, puppies can only physically hold it for so long before they have to go, no matter what. Baby monitor??? Bruno smells like pee from sleeping in his crate. Time for a bath. Bruno's 6th night: 7 weeks and 6 days old Bruno was up at a. I let him out to pee. He went back to sleep shortly after and re-awoke at a. Bruno peed in his crate again, in the very back corner. I had to throw his bedding in the wash again and replace it with new bedding. His crate is not too large. I believe I need to watch how much he drinks right before bedtime. Puppies at this age have small bladders and cannot physically hold it in for too long. Bruno asked to come back inside the house and wanted to curl up in my lap, which means he's ready to go back to sleep. I put him back in his crate with the fresh bedding. Allie and Bruno sharing the dog bed. Yes, I do believe they like one another. Why Bruno.Bruno peed on his dog bed, the bed we keep on the porch for him. I had to hose his bed off and prop it up to dry. This is him asking mommy why she got his bed all wet with the hose. Actually, it is him discovering some new and interesting smells the moisture is bringing out from the bed! Puppies Boxer puppies are just adorable. Having a new boxer puppy at home is just overwhelming. But have you ever thought about the responsibilities you will have to handle and take care of? Besides, its not only about responsibility and taking care of your Boxer puppies, it about understanding their behavior in each development stages. Well, this article will help you in every way about Boxer puppies. The newborn puppies will only move to regulate their body temperature or when they are hungry. Newborn Boxer Puppy. Image Source — Blogspot. Newborn Boxers will not be able to hear, see or sense anything. Their eyes and ears will be closed until the end of week two. They will be unable to sense the human stimuli until they can see or hear. Neonatal stage is a very delicate stage for the puppies. Therefore, keep a close eye on Boxer puppies, whether they have been abandoned by its mother or littermates. If any puppy is abandoned, bottle feed them and keep them in a warm place. Or, it will die. Transitional Stage — 2 to 4 Weeks The transitional stage is a serious development stage. You can see your Boxer puppies opening their eyes and trying to wag their tails for the first time. Your Boxer puppies will also start walking a bit between two to three weeks. Image Source — Instagram. Baby Boxer will now want to explore the surroundings and will run around littermates jumping and growling. Socialization Stage — 4 to 12 Weeks Boxer puppies will start playing and running around the house with their littermates. They will be mischievous and may want your attention too. From the third and fourth weeks of their development, Boxer puppies will control their bowel movement as they move away from their whelping box. Many puppies will start having worms at this stage. And the mother Boxer may lose interest in cleaning her puppies excretion, having said that, you will have to take a step forward to clean the surroundings. This is the high time you socialize your puppy and give some basic training. By the eighth week, Boxer puppies will start being familiar with the surroundings and the people in the house as well. You should socialize the puppy with other animals as well as people around your neighborhood. A well-socialized puppy always defines a well-behaved dog. Otherwise, the Boxer puppies will try to dominate you. You should teach them the meaning of submission and dominance. From the starting of three months, your Boxer puppies will start feeling the independence and confidence in them. You should keep the training consistent as this is the very fragile time your Boxer puppy needs to learn. Furthermore, when they reach the age of four months old, you can send them to advance training classes. Adolescence — 6 to 18 Months Now your Boxer puppies are not puppies anymore, adolescence has now hit them. Your Boxer will now lose their puppy face completely and are now adult versions of themselves. Boxers will now lose their baby teeth and their second teething phase is likely to get started. During these months, your Boxers will grow stronger and more energetic. You should increase the training session according to their diet. Not a Puppy Anymore. The medium-sized breed tends to grow fast physically but their mind will still be a puppy until the end of the month. You should take care of their diet as well as their behavior. A well-trained puppy only grows as a well-behaved dog. Vaccination Chart For Boxers. Eating, sleeping and staying warm are the three primary needs of puppies, and most of these are taken care of by their mother. It is important that newborn boxer puppies stay with their mother for the first eight weeks of their lives. In the first 24 to 36 hours of their lives, boxer puppies will be exposed to the colostrum in their mother's milk; it's important in them receiving lifesaving antibodies and nutrients. The average weight of a newborn boxer puppy is 1 pound, and during his first few weeks he will grow rapidly. At this time they will begin to play with litter-mates. At 4 weeks, boxer puppies can be introduced to wet commercial food, although they will still nurse as well. Introduce them to as many toys and sounds as possible, to allow them to adjust at a young age. Most newborn puppies are taken to the vet for the first time between 6 and 8 weeks of age, getting their first rounds of shots and having a general checkup. At 7 and 8 weeks, they are no longer nursing and are eating a mix of wet and dry puppy food. By this time they have become well-socialized and are on their way to being happy, trained pups. They can eat solid puppy food and begin to be house-trained. You can help your new boxer puppy adjust to his new home by bringing home some blankets or toys that smell like his litter-mates; these will remind him of his first few weeks of life. More Articles. As a medium to large-sized dog breed, Boxers need more time to fill out and reach their full size than smaller dog breeds. As a general rule, expect your Boxer to grow until they are 18 to 24 months old. Keep in mind that this range is an estimate, so there are always exceptions. Image Source: Canva How big should a 6-month-old Boxer be? A 6-month-old male Boxer should weigh around 41 to 48 pounds, while a 6-month-old female Boxer will weigh about 39 to 44 pounds. According to Care. For a male Boxer puppy, this would be around 17 to 19 inches tall. Pro Tip: Check out this downloadable new puppy checklist covering topics like vaccination schedules, setting up the home for a new puppy, teething, veterinary visits, and more! How much bigger will my Boxer get? There are several ways to estimate how much bigger your Boxer will grow. If your Boxer is less than two years old, they are likely still growing. Some Boxers stop growing closer to 18 months, but many Boxers will continue to fill out in weight and body size until they are two years old. A puppy will rarely be larger than either parent, so this can give you a clearer idea of their maximum size. Do their paws look oversized compared to their legs and the rest of their body? This is a strong sign that your Boxer is still growing and filling out! What is the size of a full-grown Boxer? According to the American Kennel Club Official Boxer Standards , a full-grown male Boxer will stand around 23 to 25 inches tall, while a female Boxer will stand about .A fully grown male Boxer will weigh around 60 to 70 pounds, with their female counterpart will weigh about 55 to 65 pounds. As with many things, prevention is always better than treatment. Taking your Boxer to regular veterinary appointments is one of the best things you can do for their health, along with consistent love and care at home. One of the best things you can do at home is brush your dog's teeth regularly to help prevent painful periodontal disease and avoid pricey dental treatments in the future. Periodontal disease can cause bad breath and oral pain for your pup and may require your Boxer to have a dental cleaning or tooth extractions under anesthesia at some point in their lives if not attended to at home. Keeping your Boxer at a healthy weight is crucial for their longevity, overall health, and happiness. If your Boxer is overweight, talk to your veterinarian to develop a weight loss strategy so that you can get them back on track. Consult with your veterinarian about the ideal food and exercise for your Boxer. Like all dogs, Boxers have certain conditions that they are prone to. Boxers are a purebred dog breed prone to heart problems, like cardiomyopathy, heart valve narrowing, and congenital heart defects. Brachycephalic syndrome increases their risk of respiratory distress, allergies, heatstroke, and sinus problems. Regular veterinarian appointments are crucial in finding and treating illness early to give your Boxer the healthiest and longest life possible. Unfortunately, veterinary bills can be costly with many treatments for emergencies and illnesses, such as heart problems, being thousands of dollars to treat. When surveyed, .The financial safety net provided by pet insurance is why pet insurance is worth it for many pet parents. Keep in mind that even healthy behaviors, like exercise, can be overdone. Consult with your veterinarian about how much exercise is prudent. Medium to large-sized dogs that are still growing may suffer from joint damage if they are overexercised. Make a plan with your veterinarian today to provide your Boxer with the ideal amount of exercise to keep them lean, healthy, and happy. Boxer puppies grow into strong and sturdy adults that make fun-loving, often silly companions, and fierce protectors. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. Select Options How to treat your newborn Boxers during their first 8 weeks If you have a litter of a newborn Boxer puppies you should prepare to be close to them at least for 8 first weeks of their life. It is the crucial time when you have to be ready for any situation, as it is the time when the health of your puppy is shaped. Day 1 During this day mother-dog will feed her babies with Colostrum. This is a milky liquid that contains a lot of nutrients, providing the puppies with vital antibodies. This day can be called a " sleepy day", as the puppies will sleep almost all the time when not drinking. If the puppies' bodies are warm, they breathe naturally and make soft noises, they are full and fine. On the first day the puppies cannot eliminate waists from their organism themselves yet, so their mother will lick them to stimulate this process. Boxer puppies have their eyes still closed and it will stay this way for days. The umbilical cord still remains, as it is rather damp and not ready to fall off. Day 2 On this day your puppies can lose weight. Don't be afraid, it is absolutely normal. However, take care that the larger puppies don't push the weaker puppies off the nipple. Day 3 If you decided to dock your puppies' tails, it is the best day to do it. Consult with your vet and consider carefully your decision. It is also the day when the cord is dry enough to fall off. On this day you should remove the dewclaws, if you decided to do so. Remember, that it should be done only by your experienced veterinarian. Week 1 During this week you should weigh your puppy each day. Take a basket lined with a soft and clean towel and measure it first. Then put the puppy into the basket. Thus, you will be able to calculate accurate number. Each day your puppies must gain weight. If there is no increase, contact your vet immediately. The nails should be trimmed each day as they grow very quickly. Please, do it very carefully for not to hurt your dog. You must trim off only a small "hook" of the nail. Week 2 It is the time when your small Boxers begin to open their eyes. It is a slow process so be patient. The puppies still hold close to their mom, but they already make their attempts to communicate with you. Week 3 It is a "chatting time". Now the puppies should fully open their eyes. The ear canal is also should be fully formed so the small Boxers start hearing their voices and barking. Be ready that your little travelers will make an attempts to leave their place. Now they have everything to learn the world better! Although it is not desirable to allow them to run about the house as they can harm themselves. Connect one or more boxes together, thus, making a big "playing ground". This way, your puppies will have enough place to communicate and play with each other. And it will be a safe place! Week 4 On the 4th week you may start feeding your puppies with solid food. Make a mixture containing 14 of puppy dog food and 34 of water. Begin with small amounts. You should habituate your puppies to solid food gradually and slowly as their digestive system cannot accept it at once. You can also remove extra heating. The temperature in the room must be 72 F 23 C. Week 5 It is the time when you can give toys to your puppies. You still have to check their weight, but not necessarily each day. Normal weight should vary between 2 lbs. Gradually make the food more solid by adding more puppy dog food and less water. Mother-dog is tired and exhausted so she would like to spend less time with her children. It is a perfect time for your interaction with the puppies. They will be very happy to play with you. Week 6 On the 6th week you may introduce your puppies a new world. Be ready that your small Boxers will become more active and start eating a lot. However, it is still too early for training. It is better to involve them into outdoor walkings. Try to walk them separately and beware of other dogs. Your puppies will be really fascinated to feel the warmth of the sun and soft touch of the grass! Week 7 You Boxer puppies do not require nursing any more. It is a great time when they grew up enough to involve you in their quite active games. Outdoor walks must become a daily routine. You should also take mother-dog with you as well. She will start educating her children all necessary skills. This week is perfect to pass to the usual routine of dog feeding, grooming, exercise and playing. Week 8 During this week the puppies should have their first vaccinations. If you are not going to keep all the puppies, it is a good time to find a new home for them. Make sure that you give them to the kind and loving people, who will take care of their small Boxers. If you are going to keep all or some puppies, you can begin training them as well as falling back into your normal dog care schedule. Boxer Newborn Puppy Care Overview If you have had a litter of Boxer puppies at your home and you are in charge of taking care of a newborn Boxer puppy, much attention must be taken during the first 8 weeks. From the moment of birth until the pups are at least 2 months old, a person must be close by and ready for any situation. Each week will bring new changes and responsibilities. This is a crucial time for care that can shape the health of the dog for its lifetime. How to Know if a Boxer Puppy is Getting Enough Milk The amount of times that a newborn puppy drinks milk from its mother varies from pup to pup. The important aspect is to know if a puppy is receiving enough throughout the day. Sometimes larger newborns will push their way to Mama and smaller puppies may not be getting enough milk. Some puppies may not be strong enough to suckle from smaller nipples some will be larger than others or strong enough to suckle once other pups have done so, and as the milk supply runs lower a puppy needs to suckle harder. How do you know if a Boxer puppy is getting enough milk? It is important to weigh each puppy. This can be done with a baby scale or electronic kitchen scale. Of course, take great care when weighing them. Always use the same type of blanket or cushioning on the scale so that you always get an accurate weight and the blanket does not affect the weight Weigh each puppy 2 times per day: AM and PM Keep careful track of who is who! You can do this by using a dot of white-out fluid applied to the ear in a certain area or other gentle marking method If a puppy shows no weight gain each day, you must take steps to ensure that pup receives more nutrition If a newborn is not gaining weight: Give the larger puppies a supplement Allow the smaller puppy to drink first; the larger puppies will have more strength to suck harder to retrieve their milk If There is a Weight Loss: This can be extremely dangerous. During the first few days it will not be milk; it will be Colostrum. This is a highly nutritional fluid that gives vital antibodies to the puppy. The puppy will sleep almost all the time, when not drinking. The Boxer pup will also make soft noises. As long as the puppy's body is warm and you feel him or her breathing naturally, all should be fine. A puppy this young will not be able to eliminate on its own. The mother will lick the pup to stimulate the expulsion of bowel or urine. Do not be shocked if the dam then eats this. The newborn Boxer puppy will have its eyes closed. They will stay this way for about 10 to 15 days. The umbilical cord will still be damp and certainly not ready to fall off. Day 2 It is perfectly normal for a Boxer puppy to lose weight on its 2nd day of life. Carefully watch for any Boxer newborn that seems to be getting pushed out of the way by other pups and unable to drink from mom. If this is happening, remove the other puppies after they feed and allow the hungry puppy to nurse alone, not bothered by their brothers and sisters. Day 3 Talk to your veterinarian regarding docking the tail , if you have decided to do so. This is often done on day 3. This decision should be carefully thought about. In addition, the Boxer puppy's cord will be dry and just about ready to fall off. Dewclaws, if removed, are usually done so on this day by your dog's experienced veterinarian. Week 1 Puppies should be weighed each day. This can be done by preparing a small basket, lined with a soft and clean towel. The basket can be placed on the scale first, with the weight noted. Then, the puppy should be placed inside the basket. Subtract the weight of the basket to have the exact weight of your Boxer puppy. There should be an increase each day. If not, be sure to immediately contact your dog's veterinarian. Nails grow very quickly and should be trimmed as often as each day if needed. A clotting solution, such as Kwik Stop should be used in case the quick of the nail is cut by accident something to carefully avoid. As the pup matures, many owners find that a grinder tool works much better than a clipper. Some dogs need to learn to tolerate the noise, but once they do, grinding down nails can be fast and easy. Week 2 The eyes of the Boxer puppy may begin to open. This is a slow process in which they will open bigger and for more time each day. Puppies will still be nesting near mom. You should take a bit more time to handle the puppies. This is done to slowly allow the mother to become used to you holding them and for the puppies to begin bonding with you. Week 3 The Boxer puppy's eyes should be completely open. Ears will be open now, as well. The ear canal should be fully formed. This is a bit of a noisy time, as the Boxer puppies will begin to find their "voices" and begin to bark. A 3 week old Boxer will have an urge to leave the whelping box. They will have an instinctual urge to eliminate outside of their resting and sleeping area. One side of the box can be removed, with newspapers placed right outside. A 2nd box can be connected to the 1st whelping box. This will allow the pups to have room to romp around and play. This will also give the Boxer mom time to rest without her puppies jumping all over her. Allowing the puppies to play with each other in a safe and comfortable box is a necessary part of the first socialization they need. Week 4 When does a Boxer puppy begin eating solid food? The weaning process begins just about now, in Week 4. You may also wish to offer the very health option of homemade meals of only fresh ingredients. Start with small amounts. It will be a slow yet steady process for a puppy's digestive system to become used to solid food. Extra heating can be removed. The room should be at a comfortable 72 F .Week 5 You should begin introducing small toys to the puppy. The weight of the puppy should still be checked, this can be done every other day now. Normal weight varies very much but should fall in the range of 2 lbs. Feeding should change slightly, with more puppy food and less water. The dam may want to spend more time away from the puppies. This is where an owner must step in and have much more interaction with the puppies. While still fragile, they should be more than happy to be patted, cuddled and played with. Week 6 A Boxer puppy will be eating quite a bit of puppy dog food than before. Too young to be house trained , this may be a messy week or 2 since bowel movements will become more frequent. While it is too early to expect a puppy to be trained yet, if the weather is warm and day this is a great week to introduce a puppy to the outside world. If you are caring for more than 1 pup, take each one outside separately or 2 at the most. Always keep the Boxer on a leash and beware of any dogs in the area. Allow them to become used to what grass feels like! Allow a pup to enjoy the warmth of the sun and the refreshment of a cool breeze. Week 7 Puppies may not be nursing at all any more. They should be spending quite a bit of time with you and with the other puppies. Going outside should be a daily routine. The dam should be brought outside with the pups; she will use this time to teach them skills. This is the time to be very close to a dog's normal routine of grooming , feeding, exercise and play time. Week 8 This is the week that the puppies will receive their 1st vaccinations. If you will not be keeping the puppies, now is the time to begin the process of finding them a good home. All prospective owners should be evaluated fully. Make home visits if possible. Do not be afraid to ask many questions. If you will be keeping all or some of the puppies, now is the time to fall into normal care for your dog. Housebreaking training can begin as well as falling back into your normal schedule. See Also: Boxer puppy care - Overview of what is needed to take great care of a new Boxer puppy. Boxer dog questions and answers - Round-up of some of the most common issues and care elements with the Boxer breed. Bruno's first week—7 weeks old, 12 pounds, 10 inches from the ground to the highest point of the shoulders the withers. We adopted Bruno when he was 7 weeks old. We had to wait until he was ready to leave the breeder before we could pick him up and bring him home. The breeder's policy was not to let the pups go until they are 8 weeks old, however Bruno's mother had died at birth and therefore he was not going to get that extra week with her and because of a schedule conflict on our end she made an exception. We decided to crate train our new puppy. Most puppies will cry all night in the beginning days because they miss their mother and their littermates. I placed Bruno's crate in the kitchen since it has a floor that can easily be cleaned in case of an accident. Dreading the sound of a crying puppy all night, and knowing this was the first night away from his litter I told two of my children to set up camp on the kitchen floor next to the crate. I did not want to bring the pup into our bed since we do not plan on allowing him on the beds when he is older. It worked, Bruno slept in his crate and didn't yip all night because he was not alone. Allie, our adult Boxer and two of our children were next to his crate. This allowed Bruno to learn what the crate was for, yet not be left alone. Bruno was exhausted from his three-hour car ride home and all of the attention he was receiving. Amazingly enough, he slept until a. I jumped out of bed and ran down to take him out to pee. It was then time for breakfast, another trip outside and playtime. I was up for the day because when he woke up, he needed to be taken right outside to pee and poop. Then he was hungry. After he ate he needed to be taken immediately outside once again to go to the bathroom. After a puppy eats, it stimulates them and the vast majority of time, they need to eliminate, it's a rule of thumb with a puppy. Then he wanted to play. After all, he just woke up! No time like the present to get hyper and want to play. He had three accidents in the last two days, which is very good for a brand new puppy. If Bruno is out of his crate, he needs to be watched constantly. I don't mean watched from across the room, I mean watched as in "hovering over him watched" to ensure he does not pee, poop or chew anything he is not supposed to inside the house. During the day we try not to crate him. He's either being held, hovered over or outside. We are lucky enough to have a very large fenced yard for him. If we did not, he'd have to be walked on a leash to go to the bathroom, which would be much more time-consuming. We have to teach Bruno not to bite our hands and feet. Yes, it is cute now and kind of funny, but when he is pounds it will not be so cute anymore. Rule of thumb with a puppy: if you do not want him doing it when he is full grown, do not allow him to do it when he is a puppy. This includes sitting with him on the furniture. Another thing we must break him from is chasing our cats. Again, it's cute and funny now, but this tiny little Boxer puppy will not be tiny for long and our cats would not appreciate an adult dog chasing them around. Cats are smart, if we allow this to go on they may even decide to take up residence elsewhere. Allie the Boxer meets her new brother. Adult dogs usually do not attack puppies and Allie rather liked the little guy. She did have to put him in his place a few times, which is normal dog behavior. An adult dog will often growl at a puppy to let it know its behavior is not acceptable. For example, when Bruno wanted to play and Allie did not, she let out a small growl and stomped at the pup to tell him enough was enough. Bruno took the hint and backed off his play and started chewing on Allie's collar and dog tags instead. Allie didn't seem to mind getting her tags chewed. She realizes Bruno is just a baby. I am lucky enough to be home with the puppy. If I had to leave for work things would be much more complicated. Bruno is young and he can only hold his pee and poop for a certain amount of time. The point of crate training a dog is you put the dog in a small enough crate so there is only room to comfortably sleep. Dogs do not like to eliminate where they sleep. However, if you leave a young puppy in a crate for too long, they cannot physically hold it in and they must go, even on their bedding. If you allow this to happen, you are going backwards in your housebreaking. If you are going to be gone for many hours a day, longer than the puppy can physically hold it, it is better to pen the dog in an area such as the kitchen where the floors are easy to clean up and place some pee pads down. It is not fair to crate a puppy or dog longer then they can comfortably hold in their waste. It is much harder to housebreak a dog if you are not home. This can really give the puppy a bad start in life and will be no fault of its own when they do not understand the concept of housebreaking. Keep in mind, you cannot yell at a dog for something after the fact, you must catch it in the act. If you do not catch it in the act, your yelling is pointless and confusing to the dog. I am writing this at a. However, he will be up bright and early wanting to eliminate, eat and play.It's now a. Bruno had to go to the bathroom. I walked him outside to the spot where I prefer him to do his business. He peed and I decided to give him some time to see if he had to poop as well; he is still outside and I must go and check on my adorable bundle of a puppy.Bruno is back in his crate. Bruno is yipping. I instinctively go and see him. Goodnight, Bruno, you have a lot to learn my young puppy. Sshhhh, lets only hope he does not keep me up all night because I will have to put up with his yipping in order to teach him what nighttime means. As I type this he is yipping from his crate. I am off to shower and go to bed. I decide to let Bruno get a drink and put him outside with Allie one last time before I go to bed to ensure he does not have to go when I ignore his plea to come out of his crate. When I turned off the shower water I could hear Bruno yipping up a storm. It woke my 9 year old who was almost sleepwalking when she opened his crate to put him outside to pee. I did her the favor of taking the pup out and told her to go back to bed. I put Bruno outside. He stayed out for a few minutes then wanted back in. It is only his third night away from his littermates and he's a tiny pup. After getting the usual puppy kisses all over my neck yeah, nice after my shower, huh? I will give him a few minutes to get good and sleepy then place him back in his crate and hope for the best. Even with all of this work, I look at him like I did my newborn babies; I just love this little puppy! The next morning: 7 weeks and 3 days old a. Bruno's up, hungry and ready to play! Bruno is tired and ready to go back to sleep. But first, his head smells like pee; he must have rolled in it. Time to clean him up and then put him back to sleep. He's taken outside to go to the bathroom and to play. He is now awake for the day but will take numerous naps as puppies need a lot of sleep. We will try not to allow his naps to last for hours on end, as those long sleep periods should be adjusted to the middle of the night hours. This size crate is the perfect size for this puppy. There needs to be room to sleep, stretch out and stand, but not enough room for him to pee in one section and still have a dry place to sleep. It's Bruno's fourth day with us and he has already picked up on the concept that his crate is the place to sleep without being disturbed. We are not being extra quiet as it is the middle of the day and he must get used to noises. Also most of his quiet sleep should be adjusted for the middle of the night. He'll soon wake to eat his lunch, go to the bathroom and play. He'll be awake for a few hours and then need another nap. This crate may be perfect for now, but very soon he'll outgrow it and we'll have to get him a larger one. I let Bruno sleep for two hours and decided it was time to wake him. As soon as he turns his hours around and is sleeping through the night I will no longer worry about the length of his daytime naps. I know he can sleep through the night; he did it the first two nights, but not the third. Bruno's 4th night: 7weeks and 4days old Bruno woke up at a. I came downstairs and put him outside. He peed and pooped. I carried him back to his crate and closed it. He laid down, then a few minutes later he started crying again. I walked back to the kitchen and was about to tell him to be quiet and give him a bone to chew when some motherly instinct inside me opened the crate door. Bruno walked out of his crate and over to my feet then sat down, leaning on my leg. I picked up the little fellow, he put his head on my shoulder and started to go back to sleep. My typical advice would be to put the puppy back in the crate if you are sure he no longer has to go to the bathroom, however I walked over to the rocking chair and rocked him back to sleep. I then put him back in his crate and he woke back up in the process, but this time he went to sleep and stayed asleep until a. He is just like a newborn baby and he's sweet as can be. Bruno's 5th night: 7 weeks and 5 days old Bruno woke up at a. I came down and took him outside and he went to the bathroom. I held him for just a bit until he calmed back down, then put him back in his crate and he fell back to sleep by a. Bruno woke up again. He was ready to play and eat his breakfast. I was beat, so at a. I tried putting him back in his crate to see if he would go back to sleep. It seemed like it just might work. I headed back to bed. At he started yipping just as I lay down. I went back to his crate and held a bone up to him to chew on and talked quietly to him. His eyes started drooping as he half chewed his bone still inside his crate. I waited there for just a bit until his eyes stayed closed for a minute or two, then I went back to bed for an hour. Housebreaking Bruno is now 7 weeks and 5 days old. He seemed to be doing so well with housebreaking. He was either inside being watched, in his crate or outside. As soon as he woke we put him outside to pee. He is not in his crate unless he's sleeping. Bruno was falling asleep so I decided to put him in his crate for a nap. As I leaned down to put him in his crate I smelled something. I felt his blankets and sure enough they were damp. Bruno had been peeing in his crate and sleeping in it! I changed his bedding and he seemed quite pleased. Now I have to figure out how to stop him when he's not doing it in front of me. The crate is not too large, which would have been my first advice to someone, to check the crate size. He is only 7 weeks. Maybe I am not always hearing him wake up in the middle of the night. At this age, puppies can only physically hold it for so long before they have to go, no matter what. Baby monitor??? Bruno smells like pee from sleeping in his crate. Time for a bath. Bruno's 6th night: 7 weeks and 6 days old Bruno was up at a. I let him out to pee. He went back to sleep shortly after and re-awoke at a. Bruno peed in his crate again, in the very back corner. I had to throw his bedding in the wash again and replace it with new bedding. His crate is not too large. I believe I need to watch how much he drinks right before bedtime. Puppies at this age have small bladders and cannot physically hold it in for too long. Bruno asked to come back inside the house and wanted to curl up in my lap, which means he's ready to go back to sleep. I put him back in his crate with the fresh bedding. Allie and Bruno sharing the dog bed. Yes, I do believe they like one another. Why Bruno.Bruno peed on his dog bed, the bed we keep on the porch for him. I had to hose his bed off and prop it up to dry. This is him asking mommy why she got his bed all wet with the hose. Actually, it is him discovering some new and interesting smells the moisture is bringing out from the bed!