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Boston Veterinary Clinic specializes in primary veterinary care, including wellness and preventative care, sick and emergency care, soft-tissue surgery, dentistry. The clinic also provides specialty services in behavior, nutrition, and alternative pain management therapies using acupuncture, and therapeutic laser treatments. Brian has over 19 years of veterinary experience and earned his Doctor of Veterinary Medicine from Cornell University. There are 16 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. This article has been viewed 49, times. Pugs may be little, but what they lack in size, they make up for in personality. They are fun loving, loyal, and affectionate dogs that love to make their owners smile. All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Crate training will keep your pug protected from household hazards, help with house training, and give him a place to retreat when he's overly excited. An ideal crate size is 24 inches long x 18 inches wide x 21 inches high 61 cm x 46 cm x 53cm. Place a blanket on top of the crate so it feels like a cozy den to your pug. Leave the crate door open at all times during this part of crate training. This will allow your pug to explore the crate at his leisure, without fear of you closing the door behind him. For crate training to be effective, your pug must learn to be comfortable in the crate when its door is closed. Gradually, have your pug wait up to 10 minutes after a meal before you open the door. You may need to leave your pug crated for hours at a time during the day, and maybe overnight. Sit with him briefly, leave the room for few minutes, then return to the crate. Work up to leaving the room for 30 minutes. Reward him with a treat each time he responds to it correctly. Practice leaving the house when you crate him. Do not get your pug worked up when you leave home or return; this could build up a lot of anxiety and anticipation in your pug. A common concern with crate training is whether to respond to whining, especially with overnight crating. Just be prepared for the whining to get worse before it gets better. Pugs aim to please, but can get sidetracked by a short attention span. When your pug stays focused on your finger on your nose, immediately give him a treat. Lengthen the time he watches your finger before you reward him. When your pug learns the basic commands, he will have the proper foundation to behave well and learn even more commands. Basic commands include sit, stay, come, and heel. If his short attention span is making training difficult, consider enrolling him in a local dog obedience class. Use plenty of positive reinforcement verbal praise, treats, extra petting each time your pug correctly follows a command. The more excited and positive you are, the more your pug will try to please you and behave properly. Pugs love to chew. Teaching your pug to 'leave it' will help keep him from chewing something inappropriate e. If you cannot stay with your pug all day and take him outside frequently, gate off an area in your home for him to stay during the day. Place some pee pads in the corner of this space where he can eliminate. When your pug urinates, the urine would go through the grass into the underlying tray. Place his water bowl and bed in the gated area. Without knowing when he should eliminate, your pug may have accidents in your home more often. A consistent bathroom routine is very important for puppies, since they cannot hold their bladders for very long. If you have a pug puppy, take him out first thing in the morning, 15 to 20 minutes after eating, after naps, and before bedtime. As he gets a little older and has better bladder control, you can start leaving his water in the crate overnight. The indoor gated area lessens the need for frequent outings during the day. However, it may take longer to house train your pug if he gets used to eliminating on pee pads or in the litter box. Your pug should learn to eliminate in the same area each time you take him outside. If you have a backyard, take him out on a 6-foot 2-meter leash, stand in one area of your yard, and let him pick a specific spot within a 6-foot radius of the leash. Examples of this body language are sniffing around, looking for a private place, going to the door, and whining. Give him a treat and verbal praise when he eliminates so he makes a positive association with eliminating outside. When you reward him for eliminating, he will also be learning how to respond to your command. It can take time—up to 20 minutes—for your pug to relax enough to eliminate outside. If you become impatient, you may experience what many other dog owners have experienced: elimination as soon as the dog gets back inside. Twenty minutes can feel like an eternity, so bring something with you e. If you pug has an accident and he probably will clean it up promptly with an enzymatic cleaner that will erase the urine smell. The AKC advocates for the responsible ownership of dogs and promotes purebred dog events, such as the Westminster Dog Show. Go to source If your pug smells the urine, he will likely go back to that spot to eliminate. Do not punish your pug, whether you catch him in the act or not. Doing so will make him fear you, rather than teach him not to have another accident. Your adult pug may have had some previous training, but it may not have been completed or consistently reinforced. Ask the rescue group or animal shelter from where you adopted your pug about what types of additional training he will need. Be patient with your adult pug during the training process. If your adult pug was mistreated by his previous owner, he may be extra sensitive to yelling or harsh punishment. If you have other household members, have them all train your adult pug. They will want to be with you. Have a crate or bed next to your bed for at least the first few weeks while you get them into a Puppy night-time routine. Here is how to get a puppy to sleep through the night. Alone Training Teaching your Pug puppy that they can be totally fine being left alone can be done with stuffed chew toys, time and patience. Remember to do it slowly to avoid any stress! Toilet Training Training Practically every website you read may tell you that Toilet training your Pug puppy can be a challenge. As with alone training, start sooner rather than later. Of course, if they run into any birds, butterflies and hear planes flying over, it will be great for them to get acquainted already. Have fun gathering surfaces with different textures for them to explore, like synthetic grass, tiles, and soil. Use treats! Remember to use lots of treats and praise when training. They love making your tail wag! Repeat their name to them a lot in the first week, so it really starts to click. Recall — How to teach your Pug puppy to come back when called — This is important for safety. Pugs generally stay close, but they can be very friendly and want to run up to people and other dogs for a bit of a cuddle, so a good recall will always help. But they can enjoy fetch games on a smaller scale, get on the floor and interact and play with your Pug puppy to learn what they enjoy. This will help to avoid resource guarding. Husbandry Tasks Pugs love affection but should be handled with care. Be mindful to not treat them like toys. Not going to blame children to think they are toys though — the resemblance is uncanny. To do this we want to teach them that hands will do nice things to them so use plenty of treats when handling your puppy. Week 2 — Training your Pug puppy Week 2 already! Negative Reinforcement Positive Reinforcement First, as a general rule, remember that Pugs are dogs, not just lap pets, and need attention and daily exercise to feel content; a tired dog is far less likely to misbehave! Although Pugs are often very treat motivated see some of the best dog foods for pugs here , toys, play and affection can also be great incentives for your little snort monster, too. House training and Potty Training for Your Pug Pugs are not known for their speedy ability to learn proper toilet habits. They can often reach the age of 5 or 6 months before they truly get the hang of housetraining, and need toilet breaks overnight for a longer time than other breeds. Although this is perfectly normal, it can be very frustrating for some owners! Patience, consistency, a regular daily routine, and the use of an appropriately sized crate just big enough for your pup to stand, lay down and turn around are all excellent ways to help potty learning along. First, set an approximate routine for your Pug — they should be eating, playing, and having the opportunity to pee and poop in a designated area at roughly the same times each day. Puppies cannot be left along for long periods of time, either — most need a toilet break every two hours at least — and even adult pugs need to have the opportunity to go potty several times a day. My last adult pug was generally okay with going once in the morning and once at night. My new pug puppy at 10 weeks currently goes every hours. When you are out of the house, or otherwise not able to directly supervise your Pug, then a short rest time in their crate is a good idea to prevent house accidents — most dogs instinctively hate to soil their sleeping places. Do make sure to go out with your Pug to their toilet area during housetraining— this is so you can make a big fuss over them when they actually do toilet outside! Pugs are highly food motivated, Benji learned a host of tricks with food as a motivation! For owners of older puppies or adult Pugs who already mainly potty outside, training them to ring a bell beside the door is a great method to get them to communicate that they need to go out. For the first week or two, reward him clicker training works well here too each time he sniffs or touches the bell with his nose. I was lazy with cleaning it though, and in retrospect I would have used potty pads underneath the grass to ease the cleaning. Prong collars or choke chain leads are also a big no-no with Pugs for the same reasons. A front attaching harness most have a clip at chest level will let your pup move freely, as well as allowing you to redirect their front end and their attention back to you to prevent continued pulling. Puppia harnesses are super popular in the pug community. The best solution, though, is to teach your four-legged little friend to walk at your side. Use food or toys to reward your dog for staying at your side while walking. When they pull, stop walking and keep the leash still, then reward them for taking steps toward you or returning to your side. Soon, the two of you will make a great walking team! After doing some research, I found out that he uses this e-collar , as well as clicker training. In spite of their ability to leave chaos in their wake, however, Pugs are perfectly capable of learning appropriate doggie manners when consistent boundaries are set, and good behaviour is rewarded! There are two kinds of reinforcement that you can give to your Pug during training — either negative or positive reinforcement. Negative Reinforcement — This includes verbal or physical punishment or scolding, and the use of corrective collars like choke, prong or muzzle collars. If you punish your Pug for misbehaviour, he could inadvertently end up being afraid of you, the place where he was punished, or other people or dogs that were present while he was being corrected. Negative reinforcement training might lead to growling, biting, or other unwanted behaviours from your Pug. Positive Reinforcement — Remember how happy you were the last time someone gave you a compliment, or that time you got a work bonus for a job well done? Well, your Pug feels the same way — praise and food especially food! With this method of training, teaching your Pug obedience commands and good manners can be fun for both of you. When your dog is offering that behaviour regularly, you can add a spoken command word. Remember that all dogs, and especially Pugs, need a lot of patience during training — work in short sessions, and keep the tone fun and upbeat for success. To prevent naughty Pug antics like household destruction and counter surfing, initial dog-proofing tends to be the best prevention. You can also take the Alpha Dog approach , which Cesar Milan The Dog Whisperer uses, though controversial, it is effective because dogs, like wolves, are pack dogs. And respond to the leader of the pack the alpha. You asked super valuable questions and really listened to our concerns. You helped us to make a conscious choice about what is right for us and take the steps to determine that we were doing the right thing. Ultimately we decided we weren't ready to be a 2 dog family, and we're so glad to gain this insight before taking on a commitment to a second dog. Thank you so much for your advice and support. She has a really flexible approach to training and finds what works for you and your dog. They sent weekly reminders about the classes and would even send us a text before the class started. Tara was amazing and soooo great with buckwheat. Would happily go to another class that she was teaching. They are both incredibly knowledgable and professional in their approach, and both went out of their way to provide additional help and support. Our great dane has benefited immensely from this training and we couldn't recommend this service more highly! No more pulling! She gave me some great strategies to help with reactive behaviours and some really simple tricks which just make life so much easier. The one in one session was a great investment. Such a refreshing change from the outdated, harsh methods and so much more effective, and fun! I have been struggling with barking with my 6yr old anxious staffy for years. We felt like we had tried everything and Cassie came and it felt like she gave us those last few missing puzzle pieces. As soon as we started enacting her advice we have had a massive improvement and have not looked back since. Not only this but she arrived right on time and was super friendly and compassionate with zero judgement. I've been to a lot of people with my little one and I can happily say Cassie is by far the best trainer we have been to. We would recommend the company to anyone experiencing the need for some professional support and advice. The ongoing support has also been most helpful! Google rating score: 4.
About Us The Riverhouse Doodle Family Riverhouse Doodles has a rich 15 year history of breeding high quality even tempered, health tested, family friendly dogs and puppies. Riverhouse Bernedoodles is the Bernedoodle extension of Riverhouse Doodles. Located near Pittsburgh Pennsylvania, we breed exceptional Multigenerational and F1B Bernedoodle puppies with warm and mellow personalities. Our puppies are health guaranteed, immunized, dewormed, microchipped and vet cleared. A Furever Friend Riverhouse Bernedoodles are perfect additions to your family if you are looking for a loving, loyal and somewhat laid back companion. Bernedoodles typically are more Chill and not so much jogging partners. Due to the stress and potential damage to large breed joints and hips, strenuous exercise such as distance running and high jumping are strongly discouraged until your dog reaches full maturity. Worry Free Online Shopping! You can now verify our program and feel confident that you are working with a legitimate, ethical pet breeder! Our Multigenerational and F1B Bernedoodle Puppies are adopted quickly, so reach out to reserve your fur-ever friend, to ask any questions or to inquire about future litters. We raise our pups in our home near Freeport PA. Please call or text for address. Best Bernedoodle Breeder in Pennsylvania welcome to Integrity Bernedoodles You want a new puppy, but not just any puppy. And since this is a big and exciting step in your life, you don't want to settle for anything less than the best. Here at Integrity Bernedoodles, our goal is to bring to you the best of Bernedoodles! We strive to be open and honest and provide happy, healthy puppies that are well socialized. So don't hesitate to reach out to us; we would love to meet you and help you choose your new best friend! Our health guarantees and socialization are promises you can count on us to uphold. As a small, family-owned business, we operate solely out of our passion for the Bernedoodle breed and making families happy by introducing them to their new best friends. We work hard to take care of and socialize each and every one of our puppies from the day they are born - one of the most significant benefits of being a small-scale operation. This socialization and intentional care mean your puppy will be happy and fully ready to go home with you and your family when the time comes. If you are looking for a trustworthy and caring PA Bernedoodle Breeder, you have come to the right place! Contact Us Why We Chose to Become Bernedoodle Breeders After our first encounter with a Bernedoodle puppy , we almost instantly had a dream of creating the perfect family dog. We absolutely loved the affectionate, playful, and loyal disposition of a Bernedoodle, and couldn't get enough of the beautiful tri-color coat. A tri-color Bernedoodle puppy is one that has black, white, and brown coloring in the coat - similar to a standard Bernese Mountain Dog. Our goal as Bernedoodle breeders is to provide families with simultaneously beautiful and loving dogs, and we are sure you will love this breed as much as we do. More About the Bernedoodle Bernedoodle Puppies Our Bernedoodle puppies adore children and make for a fun, furry family member. All of our puppies are health tested and guaranteed, but more importantly, they are raised by the caring hands of our entire family from the day they are born. We have lots of beautiful Bernedoodle puppies for sale ready to be taken home, and look forward to introducing you to your new family member! We are 40 miles east of Harrisburg, 1 hour west of Allentown, and less than 2 hours northwest of Philadelphia. Although we are located in Pennsylvania and mainly serve local PA customers, we welcome all dog lovers from around the country and will assist with delivering puppies nationwide. You may be located on the other side of the country, but we can assure you that a puppy from a trustworthy Bernedoodle breeder is well worth any travel inconveniences! Integrity Bernedoodles. View Our Available Bernedoodle Puppies! Standard Bernedoodles are bigger than Mini Bernedoodles reaching weights of pounds. They average inches in height at the shoulders when fully grown. Our Standard Bernedoodle puppies are all 1st generation-F1 variety puppies. They have purebred Bernese Mountain dogs for moms and the dads are Standard poodles. Their Standard Bernedoodles life expectancy is years old. Blue Diamond Bernedoodles have a loving, easy-going, and calm temperament. Bernedoodles are very loyal and social and love to spend time with their parents. Standard Bernedoodles need regular grooming because of their curly and thick coats. Shedding is very minimal after their first haircut and grooming. This breed is known to be a hypoallergenic choice. Here at Blue Diamond Family Kennels, we specialize in breeding Standard Bernedoodles along with a few other great breeds. We have teamed up with a few other reputable Bernedoodle breeders that breed and raise Bernedoodle pups that meet our very strict criteria and genetic testing. On our Standard Bernedoodle puppies page you will see all of our available puppies for sale. On their acre farm, the entire family is involved with socializing and raising the puppies. One of their favorites is the West Highland Terrier, which her husband had seen on the job and really liked their temperament and found them easy to train. They branched out to standard Bernedoodles and found they had a great personality but were not as feisty as the purebred poodles. Another favorite is the Cavapoo, because of the look with their big eyes and friendly personalities. All of their favorite breeds make great family dogs. The children start working with the puppies at around 4 weeks old to socialize them and get them used to kids. Puppies are also exposed to other animals such as chickens, goats and horses on the farm. They also groom their adult dogs and do puppy cuts for the puppies so they do not get shaggy. Nancy and her family provide a health guarantee for all of their puppies, and their Miniature Poodle has been genetically tested for color genes. They provide each new owner with a record of shots and deworming as well as a health certificate since every puppy gets vet checked. Something they have really enjoyed over the years is seeing what they can do to raise healthy, happy puppies for their customers. For more information, please give the breeder a call today! Share The breeder is responsible for the content of this advertisement. 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Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Deer Creek Comfort Dogs Shaping future companions for families and those in need of comfort Our family has been raising puppies for over 20 years. Our children have always had a passion for dogs which began our journey and now our grandchildren enjoy growing up with our wonderful dogs by their side. Deer Creek provides emotional support dogs, therapy dogs, service and therapy prospects, canine good citizen dogs as well as family pets. Deer Creek assists our families with puppy selection to help ensure the families get the puppy that will work well with their needs. Someone once said, "Acquiring a dog may be the only opportunity a human ever has to choose a relative" and we hope you choose one of ours. If you are interested in finding your new family member, fill out our puppy application and we will be thrilled to work with you. We recognize that our dogs have the capability of changing peoples' lives on a therapeutic level. Many of our Doodles have become therapy dogs at funeral homes, children's advocacy centers, hospitals and nursing homes, and others have found homes as anxiety, PTSD and emotional support dogs. Learn more about our nonprofit organization Deer Creek Paw Prints at www. Learn More Molly, Rhys, and Beau! We are a small Australian Labradoodle breeder located in the heart of Oklahoma, 60 miles south of Oklahoma City. Southern Oklahoma Labradoodles is owned by two sisters, Jacque Wright and Amanda Redus, and we are thrilled to become a part of the Australian Labradoodle family. Shadow Mountain has given us tremendous support and guidance and we are thankful for their continued mentorship. We are blessed to have started our breeding program with a beautiful chocolate Labradoodle, named Gracie. Gracie has had one litter of puppies and they are living with families all over the United States. Her puppies have become awesome family companions, therapy dogs in training and a companion for the physically challenged. Our puppies are raised in our home and socialized from birth. When a Southern Oklahoma Labradoodle puppy becomes a lifetime family member you can expect an intelligent, beautiful and affectionate companion. As we enhance and build our breeding program we are committed to continuing the high standards set by the Australian Labradoodle Association of America ALAA and top breeders across the country. We hope that you enjoy our website and we would be honored to assist you with any questions you may have. Please use our contact page and we will get back to you as soon as possible. Do You Like Our Site? Share With Your Friends! We raise high-quality Mini Labradoodles as well as a few other breeds. We also have partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini labradoodle pups that meet our strict genetic criteria and testing. So we usually have a good selection of very high-quality puppies. View Our Available Puppies! F1B Mini Labradoodle Puppies are a second-generation cross or hybrid. The father is a Mini Poodle and the mother is an F1 Labradoodle. The F1B Minature Labradoodles usually have soft hair that is usually wavy or curly. Thes puppies are considered semi-hypoallergenic since they shed minimally. These puppies can be a good fit if a person that has mild pet allergies. Once F1B Mini Labradoodles reach 6 months old they require to be groomed once every 8 weeks or so to keep their fur healthy and to stop matting. Adult F1B Mini labradoodle dogs range in size from 14 inches in height and pounds in weight. The average life span is typically years of age. The F1BB puppies usually have curlier coats and will be totally hypoallergenic. Once the F1BB pup is 6 months they will need regular grooming every 6 to 8 weeks. F1BB Puppies are usually slightly smaller than F1B puppies and range from 12 inches in height and pounds in weight. Mini Labradoodles are known for their intelligence and the ability to be trained very easily. They make amazing family pets and love to participate in family activities like swimming, hiking, camping or just playing tag in the yard. This breed is also a good choice for people who live in apartments as long as they get at least minutes of exercise a day. So if you live near Oklahoma City Oklahoma and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Labradoodle puppy that can be delivered to you then check out our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are some Mini Labradoodle pups that have been adopted. Questions about Labradoodle puppies for sale in Oklahoma? We have answers. Give me an overview of Labradoodle puppies for sale in Oklahoma. Uptown Puppies are the perfect choice for people who love dogs but hate dealing with allergies or piles of hair on the carpet. Soft, Cuddly, Cute Take a cute breed like Labradoodles and selectively breed them to be even more adorable, and you wind up with Uptown Puppies. Friendliest Dispositions Australian Labradoodles are known for being patient and friendly. Extremely Intelligent Due to their unique parentage that includes the eager-to-please Labrador Retriever and the super-smart Poodle, Labradoodles are quick learners. The Uptown Family Doodles are like family to us, and we want you to enjoy life with your new Labradoodle for as long as humanly possible. To help you raise the ultimate pooch, we also provide top-notch food, effective supplements, and in-depth training materials all geared towards Doodles. Perfect Family Pet Australian Labradoodles are very adaptable, which means they fit well with many types of homes and families. Big or small, odds are pretty good your new best friend is waiting at Uptown. Premium Network of Labradoodle Breeders in Oklahoma Our premium breeder network is made up of folks from around the nation who share our breeding standards, passion, and love of Doodles. Our network allows us to provide these amazing dogs to families in every state—including Oklahoma. Highest Oklahoma Labradoodle Breeder Standards Our breeders combine a system of guardian homes with both breeding age and litter count limitations to keep our mommy dogs happy and healthy. And of course, our pups get to enjoy the absolute best living conditions we can possibly provide. Elite Oklahoma Labradoodle Genetic Lines We want each and every puppy we raise to be just as healthy and friendly as the last, which is why we work so hard to improve our genetic lines with every litter. Uptown Puppies are bred to be friendlier, healthier, more hypoallergenic, and cuter
All our mother dogs give birth and raise their puppies inside the house. We believe to properly develop, each litter must live in the main part of the house and receive constant attention. To do this, we enlist Guardian Home raisers who keep the mother dog at their house until the puppies are weaned. Once weaned, the puppies come to the Safari Doodles ranch to get ready for their new homes. We know that how your puppy is raised makes all the difference. How do I know if Safari Doodles is a reputable breeder? Here at Safari Doodles we fully health test our parent dogs. In addition, the whole line of genetics prior to the parents are health tested as well. Safari Doodles carefully breeds our dogs to ensure each litter has the proper pairing of genetics. Safari Doodles began breeding doodles in .We have imported show dogs from Europe. We purchased dogs from well known service dog lines. Our Golden Retrievers and Poodles have outstanding pedigrees. To see more about our Golden Retriever line, see our Golden Retrievers page. Safari Doodles has a wide spread reputation for producing great dogs and our reviews on FaceBook reflect this. Our referrals are endless. Safari Doodles main focus is to produce Service Dogs for people with disabilities. Our list of puppies who were placed to become Service dogs are in the hundreds. We have many vets who refer their clients to consider us for their next Goldendoodle. Dog trainers, groomers, whole neighborhoods refer to us. It is important to us to do whatever it takes to keep the integrity of the Safari Doodles name alive. How much is a Safari Doodles puppy? As of summer the wait time to receive a puppy is months. How do I reserve a Safari Doodles puppy? Please fill out a Puppy Application. Tell us what size, color, coat type, generation, temperament type and any other particulars you desire in a Goldendoodle. Our specialty is helping you with the perfect placement by learning what you desire and knowing our genetics. We Volhard Temperament Test our puppies to guide the match making. Do you need a dog for a child with special needs? That is our specialty. Our focus at Safari Doodles is breeding the best genetics, paired with quality raising to match families with the exact dog for their needs. Watch our Goldendoodle puppies playing in our house Adult Goldendoodles, made by Safari Doodles no, these dogs are not available, these dogs all have homes Sage, 35lb F1 Goldendoodle. The Miniature Goldendoodle A miniature goldendoodle is quite an amazing creature that has been bred for its unique yet impressive qualities. Starting with the standard goldendoodle breeding of a standard poodle and golden retriever cross, the intelligence, common sense, friendliness, and trainability of a goldendoodle has made this breed a favorite of many dog owners and dog lovers. On top of this the cross retains a good portion of the non-shedding quality of the poodle, while also keeping part of the attractive look of a golden retriever. Combining all these traits into one dog seems quite appealing, but we have one more trait to add to this list. A standard goldendoodle will range anywhere from pounds, which is quite large for a house pet. To achieve the goldendoodle attributes in a more compact package, a miniature poodle is crossed with a golden retriever. Our Miniature Goldendoodles Sandy Ridge miniature goldendoodles are being raised to be the best pets for a dog owner. We have had consistent breeding of the mini golden doodle having a low to non-shedding coat and wonderful temperament suitable for just about any type of family. We have also found our minis to range on average from 30 to 45 pounds at maturity. There is a little variety in Sandy Ridge minis. We get coat types from slightly wavy to moderately curly and coloring from completely blonde to golden red. We cannot guarantee a puppy will be in the expected size range due to the differing genetic sizes to the parents, but our average generally holds true. With all health concerns addressed and responsible breeding practices performed, there still is the possibility a health problem could arise. We offer a two year genetic guarantee against any genetic defect or health issue that hopefully will not, but possibly could arise. If you have any questions, please contact us. A happy customer is our priority. This is our first generation miniature goldendoodle page. Our F1 mini goldendoodle puppies are a cross between a golden retriever and miniature poodle. We expect most of our F1 miniature golden doodle puppies to reach an average range of lbs, but we cannot guarantee the size of any mini golden doodle puppy. Our F1 miniature goldendoodles vary in amount of curl. F1 miniature goldendoodles are generally lower shedding than the golden retriever breed, but cannot be guaranteed to be non-shedding. F1 Miniature Goldendoodle Puppies I am planning on a litter of F1 miniature goldendoodle puppies this fall with puppies available early next year. Please email, text, or call to reserve your puppy. Please email or call to reserve your puppy. Below are pictures of past F1 miniature goldendoodles as puppies.
However, prices may vary depending on the breeder and the availability of puppies. This number may vary depending on the popularity of the breed and the number of breeders in a given year. The adoption fee covers mandatory wellness checks and vaccinations by a veterinarian. These organizations only recommend the most reputable breeders who have signed an agreement to abide by their Code of Ethics. German Shepherd Breed clubs are made up of volunteers who love their dogs and work hard to maintain the integrity of the breed. When looking for a breeder, you should always look for one that is recommended by your local German Shepherd club. Visiting this individual is an important part of buying your new best friend, as it will give you a chance to see their home and facilities where the puppies are bred and raised. A clean environment is very important when breeding pets, as it will ensure that your new puppy is free of any illness or parasites. You should also ask to see the parents of your prospective puppies. The adults should be well-behaved and healthy, just like their offspring. The adult dogs should be friendly and come up to meet you when you enter the facility. Most breeders will have one of the parent dogs on site. Make sure that all of the animals appear to be well taken care of and are in good health. Questions to Ask Ask for References from Your German Shepherd Breeder in Arkansas Your German shepherd breeder in Arkansas should also be able to provide you with references from other people who have purchased puppies. These references can help give you peace of mind, as they are made up of former customers who have purchased a pet from the breeder. Be Prepared to Wait When buying a German shepherd puppy, be prepared to wait. Most reputable breeders have a waiting list for people who are interested in purchasing one of their puppies. This is because the breeders only want to place their puppies in the right homes. Advertising their puppies for sale too early can result in negative consequences, as it can cause potential buyers to look elsewhere. This may mean that you will have to wait several weeks or even months before you are able to adopt your new pet. You also run the risk of missing out on your first choice if you place a deposit on a pup and then back out later. Ask Your Arkansas German Shepherd Breeder if You Can Meet Past Customers Another great way to get an idea of what it would be like to purchase a puppy from your Arkansas German shepherd breeder is to ask if you can meet some of their past customers. This will give you the opportunity to ask them questions about their experience with the breeder, and whether they were happy with the final product. Most breeders are more than happy to connect you with their previous customers, as they want to ensure that their puppies go to the best home possible. Meeting past customers is a great way to get an idea of what to expect if you decide to purchase a pup from your breeder. Consider it a red flag if any breeder cannot or will not provide you with any of the information listed above. It is important to do your research before choosing a breeder, as it will help to ensure that you are getting a healthy and well-socialized puppy. Another good indicator of the quality of your breeder is whether they have a veterinarian that they use regularly. This can be one of the most important questions to ask, as it will let you know if there are any existing health concerns with their dogs and puppies. If your breeder is unable or unwilling to give you the names of their veterinarian, then it may be time to rethink buying one of their puppies. A good breeder will have a close relationship with their local veterinarians, as it helps them ensure that all of their dogs are healthy and happy. On the other hand, a good breeder will have an open relationship with their veterinarian and should be able to freely provide you with their information. Get Your Puppy Checked by a Veterinarian You should also consider getting your puppy checked by a veterinarian as soon as possible after taking them home. This is because it can help you to address any potential health concerns before they become an issue. Some of the most common signs include: The breeder does not health test their dogs prior to breeding them The breeder does not screen potential buyers before selling them a puppy The puppies are being sold at a young age Price is the only factor you are considered If any of these red flags seem to be present, it may not be a good idea to purchase one of their puppies. When searching for your new puppy, always do your research to avoid getting caught up with an unethical breeder in Arkansas. By following this advice, you will be able to find a reputable breeder that will offer you a healthy and happy puppy. They should also be willing to provide you with copies of the results from any health tests that have been conducted on the parents of the puppies. If a breeder is unwilling to answer any of your questions, or if they refuse to provide you with any health records, then it may be time to reconsider purchasing one of their pups. Consider it a major red flag if your breeder is unable to provide you with any health records. This is a mistake because it can cause a lot of stress at such an otherwise exciting time. By following some simple steps, you can ensure that your new puppy is able to settle into its new home as easily as possible: Start by getting all of the supplies that you will need such as food bowls and toys. Next, you should set up a place for them to take care of their needs. This can be as simple as an indoor puppy potty or as complex as a specially designed kennel run. Finally, you should think about what you will do with them while you are at work or school. If they come into contact with other dogs during the day, consider getting your puppy their own set of tags and collar so they can be easily identified as yours. Make sure to use common sense when preparing your home for a new German shepherd in Arkansas. Potty Training Your New German Shepherd Puppy in Arkansas One of the most important things to remember when potty training your new German shepherd puppy is that it will take some time and patience. Do not get discouraged if they have an accident in the house, as this is perfectly normal for puppies. To make the process easier on both you and your puppy, try to stick to a routine as much as possible. This means taking them outside to go to the bathroom at the same time each day. Make sure to praise them when they do relieve themselves in the right spot, and be sure to provide them with plenty of treats as a reward. If you are consistent with your potty training efforts, your German shepherd puppy will be fully trained in no time. Just like with humans, their diet plays a crucial role in how healthy they are. There are many different brands and types of food that you can try. Take your time when looking for a German shepherd breeder in Arkansas. I love animals and love helping people adopt a pet. It all started when attending Missouri State University and I began volunteering at an animal shelter. Puppy pads Create a Schedule German Shepherd pups would do well with a schedule. Dogs live with a routine, and they are easy to train by having one. For this reason, make a schedule of the things you need to do regularly. Eventually, your pup will learn the routine events and will make itself adept at them. It will help you prepare for your pet, especially in the first few days of living together. As you allow your pet to adjust, do your best to create a stress-free environment for it. Always supervise it as it familiarizes itself with its new home. Still, it would be best to prepare yourself for loud noises when your pet is asleep. Moderate Training German Shepherds are highly trainable. It simply means they respond well, especially to positive reinforcement. Squeaky Toys Out of all toys, your pet will love the squeaky ones. For this reason, prepare for a lot of loud squeaks every time your pet is active. Thus, in picking your pet, you may want to consider getting it from the best. Tells you any health problems A good breeder will tell you any significant health problems in any of the dogs he or she bred. Asks more questions than you A good breeder would ask for more items from you than you would for him or her. Not in a hurry to send off A good breeder is not in a hurry to send the puppies off and get your money. He or she will even show you other breeders and veterinarians caring for their dogs. Requires expectations on both sides A good breeder will create a contract that offers not only what he or she expects from you. More than that, he or she will also show what you can expect from him or her. Sends puppies properly A good breeder will never send a puppy in a compartment and without any responsible person to go with it. Works only with one or two breeds A good breeder works only with a single or a couple of species. Shows breeding experience A good breeder shows her dogs in recognized confirmation shows. He or she will also join his or her breed in other breed-related performance events. Other states. I am a small breeder, usually having only one litter a year, with puppies raised in my home, not in a kennel. I strive to produce high quality rather than quanity dogs who are great companions first, and second, great competition and working dogs. I follow OFA guidelines for health testing recommended for our breed. My dogs are athletic, have correct breed temperament, and great health. All puppies are raised using the Puppy Culture training and socialization protocols. I believe this is why new owners always remark on how their puppy is so well behaved and easy to train after they first arrive at their new home. Abbey has her major points toward her AKC Champion title. Parents have also been active in agility, obedience, rally, nosework and herding, although most have not yet competed for titles in these venues due to owner time constraints. AKC proudly supports dedicated and responsible breeders. We encourage all prospective puppy owners to do their research and be prepared with questions to ask the breeder. Terry Anderson. Questions about German Shepherd puppies for sale in Arkansas? We have answers. How much do your German Shepherd puppies for sale in Arkansas cost? The price of German Shepherd puppies for sale in Arkansas all depends on whether you want a German Shepherd for sale in Arkansas with long hair, black hair, white hair, or any other color they come in! If you want a female German Shepherd Arkansas you will always pay more due to her breeding potential. Breeder experience and location also come into play when it comes to price, as well as whether or not the pup has had its shots! Can I only connect with breeders in Arkansas? How are the German Shepherd breeders screened? Our team is hard at work every day sifting through all the applicants we have wanting to be part of our network. We look at all these Arkansas German Shepherd breeders, businesses and companies, and allow less than a tenth through. Our Breeder Pledge will tell you everything we look for! Why is using Uptown Puppies such a unique experience? We want your experience of having a new family dog to be a happy one! What is a Arkansas puppy mill like? A puppy mill is a place that harbors many German Shepherds in Arkansas for the sake of breeding them to make money off their German Shepherd puppies Arkansas. Many of these puppies get sick throughout their lives, and often pass away at a young age. German Shepherds are so popular that there is such an array out there, whatever you want, will be yours. Start your search today! Is it easy to use Uptown Puppies? Just take a look at all the German Shepherds for sale Arkansas puppies, find the one that catches your eye and heart , and connect with its breeder or business. Simply make travel arrangements and voila! Can Uptown Puppies be trusted? We bridge the gap between wonderful families and wonderful breeders and businesses. We make sure that you always get to take home the most wonderful German Shepherds for sale in Arkansas from the best there is out there! Which celebrities own German Shepherds? Celebrities also love their German Shepherds Arkansas. Which Hollywood blockbusters have I seen German Shepherds in? German Shepherds in Arkansas have starred in many big movies.
Imagine your family with a Best Ever Doodle. Thank you for visiting our website. Check out our puppy pages. The parents are our pets and live in our home in a very loving environment. All puppies are Vet Checked and have first round of shots prior to making transition to new family. We are members of Purina Pro Breeders Club. We welcome your questions. The best way to contact me is by email. Thank you for considering us. Alfred Example of our Goldendoodles Parents are our pets and live in our home. We enjoy loving on them and the love they show us in return. Goldendoodle puppies are very smart and always wanting to please. Our Goldendoodles are standard size and mature to approximately pounds. Your family will fall in love with your new little puppy and your puppy will quickly become the newest member of your family. A Furever Friend like our Springerdoodles Best Ever Goldendoodle puppies and Springerdoodle puppies are lovable, adorable, smart, loyal, great with kids, snugglers, playful, your families forever friend, and the list goes on. Our Springerdoodles are medium size and mature to approximately 35 pounds. Contact us for more information concerning our breeder program. Photo Gallery Check out this great video of our Goldendoodle Video Check out this great video of Rylee having some fun. Rylee belongs to the Turner Family. Check out Social pages. Scroll down to content Welcome! We breed and raise Goldendoodles and Bernadoodles! Goldendoodles are known for their friendly nature with people, children, and other animals. They develop close relationships with their families, but consider everyone their friend. They are happiest when they are members of the family, and love to spend time with their people. They often prefer people companions to other dogs, and are perfect for an adult or child looking for a best friend. A Goldendoodle is the offspring of a purebred Golden Retriever and a purebred Poodle. Poodles and Golden Retrievers are both known for being intelligent and easy to train. Goldendoodles are classified into types based on their parentage. F1 Goldendoodles are a cross between a Poodle and a Golden Retriever. F1b Goldendoodles are the offspring of a poodle and an F1 Goldendoodle. They normally shed less than F1 Goldendoodles, and are recommended for people with moderate to severe allergies. Goldendoodles, being a hybrid cross, have higher life expectancies and better health than either Poodles or Golden Retrievers. We have also started breeding Bernadoodles as well! A Bernadoodle is a cross between a Bernese Mountain Dog and a poodle. Our Bernadoodle puppies come from Bella, an F1 Bernadoodle, bred to a poodle. Berners get along with the entire family and are particularly gentle with children, but they will often become more attached to one lucky human. Check out our The Mamas and the Papas page for more information on Bella! Check out our Instagram and Facebook for more pictures and updates! Goldendoodles, being a hybrid cross, have higher life expectencies and better health than either Poodles or Golden Retrievers. We specialize in breeding Mini Goldendoodles as well as a few other breeds. We also have partnered up with several other high quality breeders that raise mini goldendoodle pups that meet our strict genetic criteria and testing. So we usually have a good selection of very high quality puppies. View Our Available Puppies! Not all mini Goldendoodles are equal, there are a few different versions to choose from each having a little different genetic background based on the pups parents. We will explain all the differences in Mini Goldendoodle puppies and how they are bred below. We raise all versions of the mini goldendoodle breed. F1 Mini Goldendoodle Pups. A F1 puppy is also known as a First Generation puppy. The puppies mother is a Golden Retriever and the pups dad is a Mini Poodle. This version of mini goldendoodle usually has soft wavy or curly puppy fur. They will shed until they lose their puppy fur, after shedding they will shed a lot less, but will shed. This version is partially hypoallergenic and usually requires low maintenance. F1 mini goldendoodles usually need to be groomed every 6 months along with daily brushing to keep their curly hair from matting and getting tangled. The dogs usually grow up having great temperaments similar to golden retrievers. They usually get about inches high at the shoulder and range in weight from pounds. F1b Mini Goldendoodle Pups. An F1b is known as a second-generation mini goldendoodle with the pups mother being already an F1 Goldendoodle and the pups dad being a mini poodle also. So the difference between F1 and F1b is that the mom is not a golden retriever but an actual F1 Goldendoodle. They also have very soft curly hair but with almost no shedding. This F1b version is semi-hypoallergenic and a better choice for anyone who has pet allergies. The F1b also should be brushed on a daily basis but will need to be groomed more frequently then a F1. A 6 to 8 week grooming schedule is recommended to keep their coat in perfect condition. F1b Mini goldendoodles get around 18 to 20 inches tall at the shoulders and range between pounds in weight. F1bb Mini Goldendoodle Pups. An F1bb goldendoodle is also known as a third-generation mini goldendoodle. This mini goldendoodle version has a coat more similar to a poodle than of a golden retriever. This is because the pup is more of a poodle than a retriever. Making it the very best version for anyone with pet allergies. A 6 to 8 week grooming schedule is required to help prevent knots or matting. This version is super intelligent and loving, and usually seems to have more energy than the other versions of Mini goldendoodles. This version is usually smaller in size, weighing around pounds and only getting inches tall at the shoulders. The smaller size makes them a great size for smaller homes and apartments. So if you live near Knoxville Tennessee and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Goldendoodle puppy then checkout our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are some Mini Goldendoodle Pups that have been adopted! Due to the variation in traits inherited from its parents, the Goldendoodle can have different sizes and colors. The golden doodle is generally a loving and cuddly dog. They are very calm and loves to be around its owner, for the most part, does very well when shown affection by others. However, golden doodles are crossbreeds and so comes the varying traits of its parents. The golden doodle is quite the adventurous dog so it loves to move around and roam freely. A nice yard would suit the Goldendoodle where it can satisfy its exploratory tendencies. Due to its wandering nature, a fence would be ideal to give some boundaries. One of the main reasons for crossbreeding the golden retriever and the poodle was to get a breed with reduced shedding. However, the Goldendoodle should be brushed once a week and should be bathed only when it is physically obvious it needs one. This also includes when it starts smelling unpleasant. The nails are naturally trim when Goldendoodles exercise and move about. Their faces and ears should be wiped so as to avoid infection. Our Goldendoodle puppies for sale come from either USDA licensed commercial breeders or hobby breeders with no more than 5 breeding mothers. We only purchase puppies from the very best sources, and we stand behind every puppy we sell. Frequently Asked Questions 1. These pets make for excellent family pets and get along with children. Very sociable animals and thrives on interaction with its owner. Male or female, which Goldendoodle is better? Both male and female genders have their pros and cons so it is really up to the owner. Are Goldendoodles good watch dogs? Goldendoodles are not good watchdogs. What is the average lifespan of a Goldendoodle? Taking into account the health and size, on average the Goldendoodle has a life expectancy of about years. How much exercise does a Goldendoodle need? The Goldendoodle is a real homely and does not require much exercise, unlike many dogs. About 30mins a day would keep the Goldendoodle physically and mentally sound. How much does it cost to get a Goldendoodle? The Goldendoodle cost can vary. Contact us today for availability and costs 7. How much grooming does a Goldendoodle need? Goldendoodles generally are high maintenance dogs, especially in the grooming department. They require brushing almost every other day to separate loose hairs and distribute the coat evenly across the body. As is with most furry dogs, it is imperative to look after the coat to maintain the beauty of the doodle. Nails can be clipped every other month to avoid them getting too long. Are Goldendoodles hard to train? The Goldendoodle has a high affinity to its owner and so is usually very submissive and loving. That being said, training a Goldendoodle will require patience and reinforcement amongst necessary responsibilities such as health care, simple bonding activities such as playing catch, a good diet, and adequate exercise. Are Goldendoodles aggressive? Goldendoodles are hardly aggressive towards people or other animals for that matter. There may be a little apprehension towards a few characters it does not perceive as friendly, however, this does not last after periods of getting used to such individuals. Goldendoodles also get along with other pets. What are the challenging health issues Goldendoodles are likely to face? Considering health and age, generally, the Goldendoodle is not likely to have major health-threatening issues until the later years of its life. Some of the common complications could include hip dysplasia, ear infection, and torsion. A most vibrant dog, not many can compare in terms of friendliness and intelligence when it comes to the Goldendoodle. Are you interested in purchasing a Goldendoodle? Fill out the below form and we'll get back to you as soon as possible.
A bunny hopping gait or loose walk. Trouble getting up from a nap Difficulty walking up or down stairs to greet you. Other common Lab joint problems include osteoarthritis from old age and not necessarily hip dysplasia and elbow dysplasia, which can result in lameness of the front legs. Always consult your veterinarian if you see the symptoms of Labrador hip dysplasia. X-rays and a full exam are necessary for proper diagnosis. Dog hip dysplasia surgery for severe cases in medium-to large-sized dogs can be expensive. In most cases, rehabilitation services can also be costly and postoperative care can be long and arduous. Age may keep your dog from being a good candidate for surgery. Non-surgical treatment options often have no age restrictions. Dog hip braces, such as the Ortho Dog Hip Hound brace , support the low back and hip area for mild to moderate hip dysplasia. The purpose of the Hip Hound brace is to stabilize the hip and lower back areas by holding the head of the femur in the hip socket. This reduces grating of the bone, which allows for post-surgical healing or pain-free exercise. Braces come in all sizes so you can find one that is perfect for your pet and allows for maximum support. Is a Hip Hound Brace right for your pup? Designed for dogs who suffer from arthritis and mild to moderate hip dysplasia. Since Labs are prone to joint issues, your dog may be diagnosed with elbow dysplasia Fragmented medial coronoid process. A veterinarian we work with has used the Ortho Dog Hock Holder brace for the hind leg over the elbow joint. We recommend you give it a try! This breed already loves water so much, you may not be able to get them to stop swimming! We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. However, if you had a veterinarian watching this plump pup play in the grass, they would have a much more sobering outlook. This puppy is suffering from the early stages of Canine Hip Dysplasia. What is Canine Hip Dysplasia? This results in the separation of the joint and the resulting wear and tear on the cartilage and bones. What Dogs Get Hip Dysplasia? No one knows for sure why some dogs develop this painful joint condition. However the severity of the illness seems to be linked to both the nature genetic component and the nurture environmental and nutritional elements that the dogs experience as they grow. However, it seems to be less prevalent in puppies with parents passing rigorous hip testing through the OFA Orthopedic Foundation of Animals. This is why it is vital to only buy puppies from breeders who have tested the parents for both hip dysplasia and elbow dysplasia , which is the same joint deformity in the elbow socket. For example, if puppies grow too quickly, are lacking specific nutrients or have electrolyte imbalances, they are more likely to get CHD when they get older. Again, this issue is more often seen in larger breeds since they undergo more growth and skeletal changes than smaller breeds. The main two things you want to avoid are rapid weight gain and over supplementing too much calcium into the diet. You will also need to follow the feeding schedule set out by your veterinarian and not feed your puppy too much food. All dogs have a genetic code of how big they will get as adults. Your job, to reduce their risk of hip dysplasia, is to make sure they grow at a steady growth rate over time and not shoot up too quickly by feeding them a balanced diet specifically formulated for large-breed puppies. Environmental Factors Puppies are not usually born with hip dysplasia; it develops as the dog matures. You can take your pup out for a low-impact game of fetch in a park or a swim in a pool. However, doing activities such as forced running, stairs, jumping or agility courses when joints have not fully matured is thought to increase the likelihood of hip dysplasia later in life. The easiest way to tell if you pup has CHD is to do an x-ray of their hips while they are sedated. This allows the veterinarian to see if the joint fits together as it should. However, barring an x-ray diagnosis, there are a few symptoms to look for in more advanced cases. Signs of CHD include: Sitting in a frog position with one hip splayed out. Exercise intolerance. Swaying gait where the back end moves back and forth in a pronounced fashion. Reluctance to run, jump or climb stairs. Bunny hopping , especially up stairs. Difficulty getting up. Back legs or hips are painful when touched. Hind leg lameness, which worsens with exercise. Back legs are more close together when the dog stands than the front legs. In more severe cases, you may see muscle wasting in the back legs and hindquarters. Arthritis may develop as the disease progresses. Your dog may start to show unexplained aggressive behavior as the pain increases. Again, the best way to diagnose CHD is with an x-ray. These test rank the hips as Excellent, Good and Fair. You should not buy a puppy without ensuring the parents have at least a Fair rating, and preferably a Good or Excellent hip score. Obviously, dogs exhibiting these scores should not be bred. Yet, even if both parents have great hips, this is not a guarantee that the puppy will be free from hip issues. Refrain from making your puppy your jogging or jumping partner until they are grown. Even if you do everything right, if your dog carries the genetic predisposition for CHD, you may still encounter it when your pup reaches adulthood. If your dog develops CHD, there are several ways to treat it. The best course of action should be determined with your veterinarian. You can also add in exercises such as swimming and leash walking to keep the muscles toned around the joints. Physical therapy and massages have also been known to help. Some dogs undergo total hip replacement surgery , just like humans, and have good success with this approach. There are other preventative surgeries, such as juvenile pubic symphysiodesis JPS that vets give puppies with a high likelihood of developing CHD as a preventative measure. Conclusion While CHD is certainly a frustrating diagnosis, there are many treatment options to help your dog live a long, satisfying life. If you take a proactive approach to their treatment, you can still have an energetic, happy companion that will keep you company on walks, swim with you at the beach and lay by your feet when you relax. Disclaimer All content on this site is provided for informational and entertainment purposes only. It is not intended to be nor can it be considered actionable professional advice. It must not be used as an alternative for seeking professional advice from a veterinarian or other certified professional. Please consult a professional before taking any course of action with any medical, health or behavioral related issue. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. Learn how your comment data is processed. Why is My Labrador limping takeaways 1. Hip Dysplasia Hip dysplasia is a condition where the hip joint becomes misaligned. It causes pain and lameness in the affected leg. The symptoms usually appear between 6 months and 2 years old. Dog inherit the predisposition to hip dysplasia from their parents. Labradors and hybrid Labradoodles are prone to this preventable disease through improper breeding. Your puppy will have trouble walking if it has hip dysplasia. You need to get an X-ray done on both hips at least once before they reach 1 year old. There are no known non surgical cures for this disease so make sure you keep up with regular checkups. This disorder results from abnormal development of the pelvis and legs. The bones of the pelvic region do not form correctly and instead fuse together prematurely. This creates problems with weight bearing and movement. Arthritis in dogs can also cause limping Dog arthritis the joints of a dog become inflamed, swollen or painful. The most common type of arthritis that affects dogs are osteoarthritis which causes inflammation in one or more of their joints. Other types of arthritis include rheumatoid arthritis, septic arthritis, gouty arthritis and crystal-induced arthritis. Genetics plays a role in whether a dog develops arthritis. Age also contributes to its development. Older dogs are more prone to develop arthritis than younger ones. Weight also affects arthritis; heavier dogs are more susceptible to arthritis than lighter dogs. Activity levels play a part in the progression of arthritis. High activity levels increase wear on joints, while low activity levels decrease wear on joints. Diet can influence joint health Dogs who have had an injury such as surgery, trauma or infection will be predisposed to developing these conditions. A Labrador as a guard dog 3. Infections can make a dog limp — especially ones involving bones Infections of the foot or paw are commonly caused by bacterial infections. This includes bacterial infections like staphylococcus bacteria, streptococcus bacteria and yeast infections. These infections tend to affect the skin around the paw pads and sometimes spread into other areas of the body causing fever and lethargic behavior. In addition to causing pain and swelling, these infections can lead to lameness if not treated properly. Infectious diseases like parvovirus and Lyme disease can affect joints and muscles causing pain and inflammation. Your vet will know what tests to order to diagnose these conditions and treat accordingly. Trauma to the foot or paw A traumatic event can lead to swelling and bruising in the area where the injury occurred. In addition, the muscles surrounding the site of the injury may tighten up due to fear or stress. As a result, the leg becomes stiff and sore. Common trauma to dog feet include Abrasions — A small wound caused by a sharp object such as a nail or splinter. Bruises — A bruise is an injury to the soft tissue under the skin. It may be caused by a blow, fall, or other impact. Bruising occurs when blood vessels are broken and leak blood into the surrounding tissues. Contusions — Contusions are bruises that are larger than a bruise. They are caused by a blunt force, such as a blow from a fist or another object. Sun burn in dogs or heat burn from hot asphalt 5. Dog Toenail Injuries can make a Labrador limp The nails of dogs grow continuously throughout their lives. However, there are times when the nails begin to look longer than normal. These changes happen naturally over time. If the change happens suddenly, however, then it could indicate something wrong. Toenails should never be trimmed too short because there is a blood vessel and nerve inside the nail. Trimming them too long or not trimming them can result in broken nails. Happy Labrador! Patella Luxation Patellar luxation is a common condition affecting many breeds including German Shepherds, Golden Retrievers, Boxers, Dobermans and of course — Labs Labs are times more likely to have this than other breeds It involves the kneecap becoming dislocated out of place. This can cause severe discomfort and lameness. Dogs can sprain a muscle and this can make them limp Muscles can become strained through exercise or playing rough with your pet. The most common places for strains to occur are at the elbows, shoulders, hips, and knees. Strains usually heal themselves within three weeks — but if it is not improving or becomes exacerbated you will need to consult your Vet. Over exertion can make a dog limp Exercise causes our bodies to work harder which leads to increased heart rate and breathing. Our legs also get tired quickly so we must take breaks often during physical activity. The exact same is true for dogs! An over fatigued Lab can limp for a while due to muscle exhaustion. Give them a few days of rest and your Labrador will be back in tip top shape soon. A Labrador sniffs a smoked dog bone 9. Insect Bites can make a dog walk funny or limp It is common for dogs to run into nature and the creep crawly insects that populate it. Through no fault of their own Labradors LOVE to explore grass and nature — which runs the risk of being bitten by ants, bees or wasps. Most of the time a dog insect bite is not a huge concern BUT sometimes they do leave behind nasty infections on the bite site if the dog licks or chews it. You should always seek veterinary care if you see any signs of infection after having been stung by an ant or bee. FAQ — My Lab has had surgery recently and is now limping? Luckily your Vet is only a phone call away So please contact us today if you think your puppy is limping. An older Labrador limps A reader Sara emailed in to tell us about her elderly Labrador dog just turned 10! As a result, she walks differently than before. Her stride length is shorter and her steps are wider apart. She loves the outdoors — but we know not to push her too far. Labradors are prone to a variety of conditions that can cause pain, including hip dysplasia, arthritic pain, and infections. Make sure you get regular checkups to ensure that your dog is healthy. Dog arthritis is a very common condition that can affect any breed. Bridie is a proud Goldendoodle mom! Part-time health worker, life-time dog writer and lover. She loves to help people best care for their puppies. Load More. Labrador Back Legs Giving Out? I did some research to find out why it might happen. Trauma is another reason, such as cruciate ligament tears. Another potential cause is degenerative myelopathy. Younger dogs are prone to trauma, such as ACL injuries, while older dogs are more often affected by arthritis or degenerative diseases. Keep reading to find out how to diagnose and help your best friend. The muscles get weaker from a lack of use, a process known as muscle atrophy. This can result from recent or more chronic injuries or problems, but it is more common when the problem has been ongoing for a lengthy period of time, such as with arthritis. Muscle atrophy causes the muscles in the leg to become thinner and less able to help your dog stand. It is commonly called muscle wasting and may be reversible with treatments such as physical therapy. It can occur in one leg or in all four. It is often noticeable by the leg or legs being thinner or smaller than they were previously, especially detectable if it is just in one leg. This can happen when they have a fracture or break, or if they have a torn ligament. It is most common in the knee joint, which is also known as the stifle. In some cases, the problem is one that your dog is born with, such as a luxating patella, where the kneecap moves out of place. Hip Dysplasia Hip dysplasia can be present in younger or older dogs. Pets that are affected do not have a normally formed hip ball-and-socket joint. This can cause excessive or irregular motion within the joint. It can even lead to the femur bone slipping out of place and causing a hip luxation. The irregular motion of the joint often leads to discomfort or out-and-out pain. Over time, it will often lead to arthritis. Some pets are minimally affected while others need surgery. Treatment for hip dysplasia may involve surgery where the hip joint is replaced with a total hip replacement surgery. For milder cases or when surgery is not an option, pain medication may be prescribed by your veterinarian to treat the discomfort and keep inflammation at bay. Joint supplements or fish oils may also be used to keep the joint as healthy as possible. Arthritis Arthritis is a common disorder in dogs and many suffer from it, especially as they age. It can occur due to irregular joints or secondary to trauma. Arthritis is often coupled with degenerative joint disease. The cartilage within the joint gets worn down over time. Arthritis can occur in any joint: It tends to be very common in dogs within their hips or knees but can also occur in joints such as the elbows. It tends to be less common in joints such as the digits or toes. Typically it causes discomfort so the limb is used less. This leads to weakness, which can cause the back legs to give out. Arthritis may be treated in a variety of ways: If your pet is overweight, your veterinarian is likely to recommend a weight loss program. Anti-inflammatories, such as carprofen, may be used to combat pain and inflammation, but these should be prescribed by your veterinarian before you give them to your dog. Other treatments include laser therapy, which also helps treat inflammation. Acupuncture can also be used to provide relief. Degenerative Myelopathy Degenerative myelopathy is a devastating disease that occurs more often in large breed dogs than in smaller breeds. It can occur in Labradors although it is more common in German Shepherds. It is a disease that affects the spinal cord and often usually ascends or moves from the back legs to the front. It usually starts as weakness or ataxia in the hind legs. It tends to occur in older dogs, usually those 8 to 14 years of age. Degenerative myelopathy has no known cure. It is treated symptomatically, although pain medication is not normally needed. Slings may be used to help you walk your dog. Trauma Trauma is the most likely cause for your younger Labrador having trouble walking with one or both hind legs. The most common cause in medium and large breed dogs, such as Labs, is an anterior cruciate ligament injury, or ACL injury. This is a ligament in the knee that may partially or completely tear. Other causes of trauma include bone fractures or avulsions. These tend to occur in parts of the leg below the knee, as the femur is the thigh bone and is the strongest bone in the body. Treatment will depend on what type of injury has occurred. For many, surgery is needed, especially with an ACL injury. Without surgical correction, they may continue to have weakness in their hind limb. The injury will also often progress to arthritis as the pet ages, which can cause pain for years to come. As with many other injuries, treatment may involve anti-inflammatories prescribed by your veterinarian, as well as pain medications such as gabapentin. For some pets, braces or splints are used to stabilize the joint and support the limb. Chronic care may be needed, especially when the injury leads to a progression of chronic pain and arthritis. Related Questions How can I help my Labrador with weak back legs? The most important thing to do when dealing with a dog whose legs are weak is to have him diagnosed by a veterinarian. This affects treatment as well as the prognosis. In the meantime, supporting him can help a great deal, such as walking him with a sling. Padded bedding can help support his joints when he sleeps in his bed. Passive range of motion exercises, where you carefully put his limbs through their normal range of motion, may be recommended by your veterinarian to help at home. What kind of treatment is available for my Lab with weak back legs? The type of treatment available for your dog all depends on what is causing him to have weak back legs. Some cases need surgery to be corrected, while many involve supportive care. This can involve medications prescribed by your veterinarian, such as anti-inflammatories or pain medications. Chronic care may involve chiropractic treatment or acupuncture. Laser therapy is often used in acute and chronic cases, as well. Some patients also benefit from rehabilitation therapy, such as hydrotherapy, where they may swim or walk on a treadmill. Trusted by millions of dog lovers worldwide. Limping in dogs is quite common. Limping occurs when your dog cannot walk normally due to pain or weakness. He may walk slowly or with difficulty and will usually favor one leg. There are two types of limping that your Lab may experience. Some types occur gradually over time, whereas sudden lameness happens quickly, usually after an injury. Some cases are minor and can be treated at home, whereas others will require professional medical help. Overexertion Too much of a good thing, such as fetch, intense running, or rough play with other dogs, can leave your Labrador sore and hobbling with a muscle strain. However, most dogs will recover quickly after a couple of rest days. Look out for your Lab incessantly licking his paw. Burns caused by scorching sidewalks or frostbite can also cause your Labrador to limp. Get your dog some booties or paw protectors in extremely hot or cold temperatures. Toenail Injuries Examine your Labrador for ingrowing or overgrown toenails, as these can cause discomfort and pain when they dig into the skin. My dog once had a dewclaw injury, so make sure you also keep these trim. Insect Sting or Animal Bite Stings and bites can cause limping. Your Lab may raise its paw if stung by a wasp or bee. Bites from other animals can cause injury and also lead to infections. Fracture A broken leg should be suspected if the limping occurred suddenly. Broken bones may not always be visible. Sprain A sprain is the result of a stretched or torn ligament or tendon. It can be caused by something as simple as jumping off the couch and landing awkwardly. Your Labrador will be reluctant to put any weight on his paw or leg. Hip and Elbow Dysplasia Dysplasia is a common hereditary condition causing hip and elbow joints to become loose and move out of position. According to the OFA, .Osteoarthritis Older and larger dogs are more at risk of this chronic painful disease. It results in joint inflammation caused by cartilage deterioration. Signs include lameness, stiffness, or difficulty in getting up. My dog Willow has osteoarthritis of her lower spine. Her initial symptoms were lameness of the rear leg and difficulty getting up from a lying position. However, she manages it pretty well along with her hip dysplasia with prescribed medication, and exercise adjustments. My vet recommended these, they get excellent reviews online, and they seem to work for her. She has the Big Barker , which is the only dog bed clinically proven to reduce joint stiffness and pain. You can read my comprehensive review here. Cruciate Ligament Injury or Disease This is where damage is caused to one or both cruciate ligaments that hold the knee together. Limping is usually the first sign of a cruciate problem and can be caused by turning awkwardly, jumping, or twisting. It can occur suddenly or be progressive. It is common in dogs, but Labrador retrievers are three times as likely as other breeds to have patellar luxation. Infection An infection of the paw or leg can cause your Labrador to Limp. He may lick and chew the site and may need to take antibiotics. Lyme Disease This bacterial illness transmitted by certain ticks can cause intermittent lameness. Degenerative Myelopathy Older dogs are at risk of this inherited disorder that affects the spinal cord causing a gradual paralysis of the back end. Symptoms are weakness, lameness in the hind legs, and incontinence. Panosteitis Wandering Lameness or Growing Pains This condition affects the long bones of the legs due to painful inflammation. Panosteitis tends to affect growing large breed pups, aged months, including the Labrador. A shifting lameness from one bone to another is caused and can occur over several weeks or months. Hypertrophic Osteodystrophy HOD This is a bone disease occurring in fast-growing large dogs, usually between 3 and 5 months old. The Labrador Retriever is one of the breeds predisposed to Hypertrophic Osteodystrophy. Signs will be a slight limp and pain in the affected bone. The shoulder is most commonly affected, but it can also appear in the elbow, hip, and knee. It occurs when large puppies grow too quickly. Limping, lameness, and pain are symptoms. Labrador Retrievers are predisposed to Osteochondritis Dissecans , but the genes involved have not been identified. Dwarf dog breeds having a short, stout appearance are most commonly affected. Immune-Mediated Polyarthritis This disorder of the immune system causes inflamed, swollen, and painful joints. Your Lab will be reluctant to walk — or he will hobble on one or more legs due to the pain. Diabetic Neuropathy If diabetes is left untreated, excessive glucose can cause progressive weakness or paralysis due to nerve damage. However, this condition is rare in dogs. Congenital Limb Deformities Abnormally developed limbs can cause limping in your dog. These are pretty rare, and this study on the congenital deformities of the distal extremities in three dogs highlighted that little is known about the causes. Osteosarcoma bone cancer Bone tumors can rapidly grow, causing limping and pain, particularly in leg bones. Limping can vary from mild to severe. Are you looking to buy something for your dog? Make sure to check out my favorite dog gear below. To hold that distinction for 29 years in a row is not surprising since Labs are affectionate, intelligent, and fun-loving family dogs. They are also known for their trainability and versatility, so that you see members of the breed in various endeavors such as search-and-rescue missions, drug and weapons detection, and guide dogs for the visually impaired. For individuals who have Labs as loyal companions, it can be very distressing when they see their beloved dog suddenly limping or, worse, collapsing because of problems with their hind legs. Signs of Back Leg Problems Despite being a sturdy breed, Labrador Retrievers are prone to problems in their hind legs. This is due to a genetic predisposition to certain diseases, their size and body frame, and weight distribution. Please note that an accurate diagnosis can only be made by a veterinarian after a complete physical examination and diagnostic procedures. Among the most common injuries that younger aged Labs sustain are bone and toe fractures and avulsions or tearing of leg parts below the knee. In middle-aged and elderly Labs, they may develop a partial or complete tearing in the ligament of the knee, a condition known as Anterior Cruciate Ligament ACL injury. The reason for this improper fit is because the socket is shallow and not deep enough to accommodate the femur head. Because of this, the joint wear out faster, causing pain when the head and socket surfaces grind together. There is a genetic predisposition for CHD. If a puppy has CHD, the signs will start to manifest at the age of two years old. In some cases, CHD may develop as a result of nutritional and environmental factors, or you may have these factors aggravating the existing genetic condition. Unfortunately, osteoarthritis in dogs is also accompanied by degenerative joint disease. You may find your Lab unable to walk because of weakness or pain in the legs. First is Canine Diabetes , which presents signs and symptoms that are similar to humans, such as excessive thirst, frequent urination, appetite changes, and hind leg weakness. This is frequently seen in senior dogs that are overweight. This is a deceptive condition because it mimics the signs of aging in dogs, including increased drinking and urination, and increased appetite. However, it also manifests with weakness and muscle wasting in the hind legs. A common condition in the breed is slipped discs as a result of their active behavior. Your Lab may also suffer from Fibrocartilaginous Embolic Myelopathy FCE , which develops when a piece of cartilage travels through the bloodstream and blocks a blood vessel in the spine. On the other hand, Degenerative Myelopathy is a painless, but gradually progressing disease wherein the dog exhibits hind leg weakness. Leg weakness occurs gradually over a long period of time until the dog collapses, unable to hold its weight any longer. Treatment When you notice back leg problems in Labradors, they must be brought to the veterinarian immediately for an assessment. Aside from a physical exam, the vet may have x-rays and MRI scans done to determine the cause. Once the cause is determined, the vet may advise surgery, such as in the cases of CHD, tumors, and myelopathies. Dogs with hormonal problems may require regular injections of insulin and other medications. Conservative treatment includes putting the Lab on a weight loss program, reducing their physical and play activity, making changes in the home putting ramps on stairs and couches for ease of access to the dog, and wearing braces or other supportive devices for the hind legs. Many back leg problems in Labradors can be treated. It is vital that they be detected early so that treatment can be done immediately before they become serious. Further reading. What can cause hind leg problems in Labrador Retrievers? It has various causes. So, if your dog has hip dysplasia, there are several possible reasons why. First off, Canine Hip Dysplasia can be a genetic health issue. On top of that, it also disproportionately affects larger breeds, such as the Labs, much more than smaller breeds. There are also other factors behind Labrador back leg problems like this, such as how much exercise a Labrador Retriever gets and other nutritional factors. To understand what hip dysplasia is and how it affects a Labrador, you have to know the mechanism of how the affected area works. The hip joint is a ball-and-socket type of joint. In healthy dogs, this joint should move against each other smoothly without any issues at all. However, dogs with Hip Dysplasia will have trouble with this, as the ball and socket grind up against each other instead of moving smoothly. In short, there will be a lot of grinding, which then leads to losing mobility in that joint. Eventually, if left untreated, this joint may lose function due to the abrasive nature of friction. Hip Dysplasia will cause your Lab pain and discomfort, so it is incredibly crucial to spot it on time so that you can get your Lab the proper treatment, and they can move in relative comfort. Causes of hip dysplasia 1 Genetics Before anything else, genetics plays a major role in canine dysplasia. Because of this, it is important to make sure that you buy from a reputable breeder that clears their puppies from this disorder. Still, early diagnosis is important to make sure that you take the appropriate measures to alleviate any discomfort for your dog. Take note that a lot of factors can contribute to hip dysplasia. On the other hand, one thing you should also know is that if your Lab gets too much exercise especially when they are still puppies , this might cause a lot of stress in their joints. Ultimately, it can also cause dysplasia or make it worse. There are certain types of dog food that are specifically made to help puppies from large breeds appropriately manage their growth rates. Hence, you can tell that proper health management is already a decent precaution for hip dysplasia. You cannot prevent the skeletal disorder if it is genetic, but you can certainly make the proper preparations to not exacerbate the condition. However, lameness in the back legs is one of the behaviors generally attributed to canine hip dysplasia. Other symptoms include:. Does dignity matter to dogs? When is the right time to use that choice, if at all, is an intensely personal and tough decision. This is my personal slant on a difficult subject. One that comes up quite regularly in many doggy forums. Even when quality of life is really all but gone. Palliative Care For Dogs When people are dying, we accept that all we can do is make them comfortable. Palliative care is an important branch of medicine that many of us will depend on in our twilight months. Palliative care for dogs is a somewhat newer concept. When I was young, if a dog was diagnosed with terminal cancer, as my Golden Retriever was, the dog was normally put to sleep on the spot, or very shortly afterwards. Our vet made the diagnosis in his surgery and we took our dog home to have a last couple of days together. The vet then came out to put him to sleep in his own home. At this point, pain meds controlled his pain absolutely without making him drowsy, in a week or two that would not have been the case. He was also in full control of his bodily functions. Still continent, and able bodied. Still enjoying life. Later on he would have become incontinent, and may have had problems with his balance. No one suggested that we extend his last few weeks with drugs. Though he might have lived for several more months this way, it was not considered to be an option by my family or our vet. He never suffered, apart from the mild symptoms that had led us to the vet in the first place. And he spent his last couple of days pottering about the house and garden quite happily. I have no regrets about the decision we made. It was the first time, at just 18 years old, that I had been involved in such a decision, and I have made many such decisions in the intervening years. Yes, he could probably have had a few more days of joyful living. Possibly a few more weeks. And we may have deprived him of that time. But the risk that he would then begin to suffer was not acceptable to us. And knowing that he never suffered at all, was and still is, a comfort to me. I believe that the course many people take nowadays, the course that they may be encouraged to take by their vet and by friends and family, of waiting for the suffering to start before making that final decision, does not benefit our dogs. Younger Dog Euthanasia Of course with younger dogs, especially if the illness is not terminal, then there are a whole range of other factors to consider. With elderly dogs, once illness has set in, there is very often only one way to go. And that is downhill. This is heart breaking for owners and poses a dilemma, because the dog is often otherwise well in himself, and not necessarily in pain. Loss of back end awareness is sometimes accompanied by loss of control over bowels, with the inevitable distress that this causes to both of you. Does Dignity Matter To Dogs? I was saddened to read recently about a person who had nursed their own elderly dog through weeks of incontinence before death. I was sad for her, and doubly sad for her dog. For me, that would not be an option. And that an elderly dog would be very distressed by being unable to keep itself clean. Knowing that there is no hope of recovery, and believing that a dog has no concept of or fear of death, is enough to keep me from going down that route. They hate the mess and stress of caring for a sick old dog, the broken nights, the smell, and the worry. They quite naturally want it to end. So they make the wrong decision. For all the right reasons. They are trying to put the dog first, and to ignore their own needs. So they keep the dog alive for a few more weeks. It is miserable for the owner, and miserable for the dog too. That is a whole other topic, but perhaps we are too reluctant to make use of this option which is readily available for our dogs and can prevent a great deal of suffering. What do you think? Is there ever a right time to let go? Or should we let just let nature take its course? Labs were bred as hunting dogs. Hunters in Atlantic Canada and Britain used labs to retrieve waterfowl from marshes and lakes. As a result, your Lab is strong, intelligent, and an adept swimmer and runner. However, your Lab, like all dogs, is more vulnerable to certain diseases than other breeds due to its genetic makeup. Degenerative Myelopathy in Labs Degenerative myelopathy DM , a spinal nerve disease, is more likely to affect your Lab than other dogs. A Lab with degenerative myelopathy will gradually start to lose movement in their legs and lower body. Dogs with severe degenerative myelopathy can actually become paralyzed. Yet it can hold your Lab back. As you know, your Lab loves to run, swim, and socialize. If your Lab has DM, give it a comfortable bed. Keep the bed and the dog clean—a dog that lies around for long periods can develop bed sores, just like a person might. Dogs with DM can get some circulation and sensation back with the help of kinesiology tape. A wheelchair is another helpful tool. A custom-built dog wheel chair can help an animal with DM get around comfortably. Hip Dysplasia in Labs Some Labs are born with hip dysplasia HD , a genetic condition that causes the bones to form a bad fit in the joint. A dog with HD will experience some combination of pain, damage to the cartilage in the joint that connects the bones, and arthritis. Breeders should screen their dogs for this condition. After all, hip dysplasia may not be obvious right away. A Lab with HD might favor one of its legs instead of the other. A dog with HD will be reluctant to exercise due to the pain. HD has a range of severity. Low-impact cases are easy to manage with anti-inflammatory medication and physical therapy. Moderate cases can be mitigated or repaired with surgery. In extreme, inoperable cases, a Lab with HD might require a wheelchair. Obesity in Labs Labs are more likely to be overweight than other dogs. Since they were bred to be an energetic, hardworking dog, contemporary Labs with busy caretakers might not get the exercise they need. A Lab can run around for hours and want to keep going long after their human is ready to take a break. To help your Lab cut their weight, and avoid problems weight gain can cause, like arthritis and diabetes, you should adjust their diet and activity level. Take your dog out for plenty of exercise. Vets recommend these exercise guidelines: weigh your dog, then multiply the weight by two. A pound dog, for example, should get at least minutes of exercise per day. And cut back on the table scraps. If your dog displays any of the symptoms above, take them to the vet as soon as you can.
You have to be familiar with the whole process of buying and selling pugs to be able to identify the good ones. Avoid getting pug puppies from random listings of Pug Puppies Indiana you find online. You have to exert time and effort to filter out sellers with questionable websites and manner of transacting. They list breeders whose contact details are verified and buyers can easily access them Another good source of information is dog shows. Interact with the trainers and the people around the show. Ask around for dog breeders who might have a pug for sale in Indiana. Pugs that are part of these shows commonly have approved pedigree charts. Reach out to dog rescue centers and shelters that are local to you. If you are open to adoption, instead of getting pug puppies for sale, they can connect with you when a rescued pug is up for adoption. Traits of a Reliable Pug Breeder Indiana has been the subject of headlines about puppy mills in the past. These puppy mills do not practice the ethical standards of making sure that the parent dogs are treated poorly unless they produce a puppy. Stay away from puppy mills at all costs. The puppies produced in these environments have poor health and lack social skills. The puppies are not vet checked and definitely not screened for genetic disorders. The pugs raised in puppy mills suffer from respiratory issues, allergies, and digestive problems. When talking to a breeder, look for the traits we have listed below for the common traits found among reputable pug breeders. Volunteers Information Upfront A reputable pug breeder will not hesitate to share pertinent information about the puppy and the parents of the puppy being sold. These breeders understand the importance of knowing whether the pug puppies are vet checked, family raised, has received first shots, or if they are American Kennel Club AKC registered. An honest breeder will make sure that the sale listings they post are true. They will not be bothered by questions confirming the details on their listings. In fact, if the buyer will not request it, they will insist on taking the buyer to the parents of the litters. An honest breeder will declare the total cost and will not charge you hidden fees. They will lay out the policies clearly before closing the transaction. If you sense that the breeder you are talking to is withholding information or is not totally open, the best option is not to go through with the transaction. Offers Health Guarantee To help committed prospective owners make their decision, a good breeder will offer a health guarantee for the puppies. This means that they are confident that the pups they will release do not have health issues. The breeder should be able to discuss the option of spaying or neutering the puppies bought from them. If spaying or neutering is not an option, they will be interested to partner with you for breeding programs in the future. Compete Papers on the Day of the Transaction A legitimate breeder will have no problems producing registration papers and pedigree certificates of the parents of the puppy. This enables them to dispel any doubts from the buyer regarding the breed of the puppies. Remember that good pug breeder provide a loving home to their dogs. They treat them as part of their families and will take responsibility for the puppies even after releasing them to you. How much can a pug puppy for sale cost? Take note that this is just the initial cost of acquiring a pug puppy. You will invest in the things the puppy needs to live a comfortable and healthy life. Take into account the dog food, vitamins, treats, toys, and health care costs. The puppy needs a regular vet check as well as grooming requirements. How to get health insurance for a pug puppy? Newly registered pugs with the AKC get 30 days of health insurance coverage. This is also applicable to newly transferred ownership of dogs. Connect with AKC as soon as you get the puppy for you to avail yourself of the free coverage. Another great option is to look for health insurance companies online. Make it a point to check all the options and see which fits best to your budget and your needs. Double-check to make sure if the pug life span is a factor considered in the policy. Since pugs and pug puppies are susceptible to a number of genetic diseases, it might be a good investment on your part to get a health insurance policy for your fur baby. Pugs for Sale in Indiana: List of Breeders Here are some of the breeders you can start reaching out to. Add our list to your search results for Pugs for Sale Indianapolis. Some of these sellers and breeders have other breeds like Boston terrier, fox terrier, cavalier king Charles, and other adult dogs that are available according to their listings. Applewood Pugs. Find more Pug puppies for sale in closest states: Illinois , Ohio , Kentucky , Michigan , Tennessee , Iowa If you have never owned a Pug before, or are interested in reading more information, check out our Pug Dog Breed Information page. Latest Dog Articles How to take care of dog's hair properly? Despite the fact, there are different breeds of dogs, every dog in one way or another needs care. There are less problems with smooth-coated breeds Great Danes, Boxers, Rottweilers, Dobermanns, and others. They can be cleaned every few days. If you have Games with the dog Games for the dog and its owner are not only good entertainment! It is also a great opportunity to establish a psychological contact with the pet and the most powerful tool of training. 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Life Span Did You Know? The Victorian Bulldog is a cousin to the English Bulldog. Victorian Bulldogs are slightly larger, tend to be a little bit lighter in the chest, and have a slightly longer snout. Victorian Bulldogs might look a little intimidating, but they are loyal and reliable sweethearts with a gentle nature that make a great family companion. They are very affectionate and thrive on human attention and companionship. They are excellent guard dogs that are known for their courage and protective instincts. They are also great with children and other pets and are naturally gentle with them. They can be suspicious of other dogs if they are not socialized properly. This dog breed may drool a little and snore, but they are a loving and dedicated companion that will love spending time with you. The Victorian Bulldog is a moderately adaptable dog breed. They do well in larger homes and can also adapt well to apartment living as long as they get enough attention and exercise. They tend to be less active indoors, which makes them a good fit for apartment dwellers. They do best in moderate climates as they get cold easily and do not handle heat very well. Victorian Bulldogs also crave human companionship and attention, so they will not do well with long periods of time alone. This is a hardy dog breed that is relatively healthy. Although they are bred specifically to avoid many of the genetic diseases common to Bulldogs, there are some conditions to be aware of including skin problems, cherry eye, entropion, or hip and elbow dysplasia. Asking the breeder about the genetic history of the parents and also to see any health clearances can help allay concerns about potential health issues. The Victorian Bulldog is sensitive, intelligent, and eager to please. They tend to pick up training quickly and relate well to their humans. This makes them a highly trainable dog breed and a good fit for owners of any experience level. They respond best to gentle, positive, and rewards-based training. This dog breed has a moderate grooming level and is an average shedder. Common coat colors are red, brindle, fawn, solid white, or pied. They have a shorthaired coat of fine, smooth fur that requires minimal grooming. Bulldogs are known for their wrinkly faces, which need to be cleaned regularly to avoid irritated skin or infections. Gently cleaning inside the wrinkles each day with a damp cloth will help keep your Victorian Bulldog comfortable and prevent skin problems. In addition to coat and skin care, there are other grooming tasks that every dog needs, like nail trimming, regular ear checks, and dental care. Monthly nail trimming is usually sufficient to keep nails from getting too long. Ears that flop over can trap dirt, debris, and moisture, which can lead to ear infections. Dental disease is one of the most common health issues in dogs. Dental hygiene chews and a dental care diet can help supplement your dental care efforts. Getting them used to regular grooming tasks and keeping it a positive experience makes grooming much easier as your dog grows. It can even become a bonding experience that calms and relaxed both of you! Victorian Bulldogs have a moderate activity level. They can sometimes act like couch potatoes when they are indoors, but they still need some regular exercise every day to stay happy and healthy. A few walks a day with some playtime or time to run around is sufficient for this stocky pup. Although they are more athletic than their English Bulldog cousins, they still have a short snout, so they can get overheated easily. A fully-grown Victorian Bulldog usually stands between inches tall at the shoulders and weighs between pounds. A Victorian Bulldog generally lives years. The Victorian Bulldog was bred to recreate the appearance of the Bulldog breed from the early 19th century, so it looks more like the Bulldogs from years ago than those of today. Currently, we do not have any Victorian Bulldog puppies available, but we can alert you when new Victorian Bulldog puppies are available! Just enter your email address and click submit! Please enter a valid email address! Related Breeds. Puppy Breeds The Victorian Bulldog is large headed and thick boned, only to the point that it does not impede vigor. It is broad muzzled and short faced, but not so excessive as to interfere with breathing. The hindquarters are somewhat higher and not as heavy as foreparts, but not so as to destroy the symmetry of a muscular athlete. The head should be large but not exaggerated out of proportion to the body. The cheeks are rounded and extended sideways beyond the eyes. The face is measured from the front of the cheek-bone to the tip of the nose, long enough for unhindered breathing. The muzzle is broad and turning up, undershot but not to excess. The nostrils are large and wide, black is preferred but dudleyacceptable. The flews are broad and hanging over the lower jaw at the sides. The canine teeth are large and wide apart. The eyes from the front are set low and wide apart, never bulging or sunken and never with the haw be visible. The ears are either rose or button and are never erect or cropped. The neck is thick, strong and arched, with loose skin forming dewlap on each side. The shoulders are broad and deep. The Victorian Bulldog has rounded ribs with a wide chest narrowing towards the loins without exaggeration. The forelegs are muscular, straight and wide apart, not bandy or curved. The hindlegs are strong and muscular. The hocks are slightly bent. The feet are round and compact and either straight, turning down, or screwed. The coat is smooth and short. Colors include all brindles, solid white or pied, solid red, fawn or fallow. Black or black and tan is not acceptable. Temperament Victorian Bulldogs are very loyal and absolutely reliable. Although its appearance can be somewhat intimidating, it is among the gentlest of dogs. Just the same it will see off any intruder. It is described as a very affectionate and dependable animal, gentle with children, but known for its courage and its excellent guarding abilities. Victorian Bulldogs are very much a peoples dog seeking out human attention and loving every bit it can get!! They are nice to all people. This breed is good with family pets, but they can be scrappy with strange dogs without enough leadership from the owner. Some snore very loudly, and some have drool and slobber tendencies. Be sure to always be your dogs Pack Leader. Height, Weight Height: Dogs: inches cm. Weight: Dogs pounds kg. Bitches pounds kg. Exercise Grooming The Victorian Bulldog began to spread far and wide after Ken Mollet who loved the bulldogs greatly, decided to create a healthier breed of the dogs. It took awhile for him to achieve the result he wanted and much later he was working on his breed alone. Ken Mollet used breeds recognized by the Kennel Clubs and Healthy dogs developed by prominent dog breeders. He used Bullmastiffs, Staffords and Dogue de Bordeaux in his bid to accomplish this mission and used any source he could obtain the perfect idea of how the bulldogs looked like in Victorian times. In , Ken formed the Victorian Bulldog society. Today, many dog breeds are similar to it. However, its distinct attributes still make it distinguishable. The Victorian Bulldog is a lovable dog. It is important to bring up the dog appropriately through good training. The Victorian Bulldog is a protective dog. It is good to have around children. This breed is quite easy to train, it requires simple and straightforward instructions to build on. Given its high intelligence, the dog is sure to take on more advanced instructions with quality and engaging training sessions. The Victorian Bulldog adapts easily into a moderate climate. It is unable to cope well in extreme regions of either hot or cold weather. It requires a small yard for movement, a large apartment will also suffice. It is not an energetic dog. However, it needs moderate exercise and mental stimulation every day. On average, the dog requires about 3hrs of activities ranging from medium intensity to low-intensity activities and mentally tasking activities. This enables it to grow into a responsible dog. Exercise helps keep your dog balanced a d contributes immensely to a healthy appearance. The Victorian Bulldog shed hair to a reasonable extent and will require brushing its coat a few times every week. Washing often can damage its coat and rinse off the natural oils that make it glow and look healthy. Our Victorian Bulldog puppies for sale come from either USDA licensed commercial breeders or hobby breeders with no more than 5 breeding mothers. We only purchase puppies from the very best sources, and we stand behind every puppy we sell. The Victorian Bulldog has a lifespan of 12 to 14 years. How big is the Victorian Bulldog? This dog breed weighs 55 to 75 pounds. It is as tall as 19 inches Is it safe to neuter my Victorian Bulldog? The general advice which applies to all dog breed is to neuter the dogs when they are mature. Maturity stages can vary for different breeds of dogs. You can also meet your Veterinary Doctor for proper guidance How aggressive is the Victorian Bulldog? The Victorian Bulldog is not aggressive it is rather friendly and social, it can easily relate with other dogs and people around it. I like to keep my dogs lean and healthy, how much food do I need to keep the Victorian Bulldog healthy? Puppies require three moderate portions given to them at evenly spaced times throughout the day. As they grow older, they can have reasonable portions twice a day to keep them feeling satiated. Why is the Victorian Bulldog referred to as Victorian? It is also named after its breeder, Mollet. How well does the Victorian Bulldog cope with water? Yes, the dog is friendly with other animals and people, its attitude towards children is no different. The dog is smart and caring and the children would enjoy its company. Does the Victorian Bulldog drool? The dog is likely to drool heavily, given that it takes the general mouth shape of the bulldogs. Drooling can become excessive during any form of physical activity. It is nothing to worry about. Are Victorian Bulldog hypoallergenic? No, the bulldogs do not shed heavily, therefore they have a lesser tendency of triggering allergies. The Victorian Bulldog has an intimidating stature, but it is full of love and care. Sociable and friendly with people and other animals alike. Are you interested in purchasing a Victorian Bulldog? Fill out the below form and we'll get back to you as soon as possible. The Victorian Bulldog was created to develop a healthier Bulldog and to reduce any genetic birth defects. How long do Victorian Bulldogs live? A Victorian Bulldog lifespan ranges between 10 to 12 years of age. Do Victorian Bulldogs shed? Victorian Bulldogs are considered to be average shedders. They shed more heavily during the spring and fall months. Are Victorian Bulldogs hypoallergenic? How big do Victorian Bulldogs get? Victorian Bulldogs can grow as tall as 16 to 19 inches at the shoulder. When is a Victorian Bulldog full grown? A Victorian Bulldog can reach its full growth anywhere between their first birthday and two years of age. Is a Victorian Bulldog a medium or large breed? The Victorian Bulldog breed is considered to be a medium-to-large size dog. Are Victorian Bulldogs good guard dogs? Because of their appearance, along with their protective instincts, Victorian Bulldogs make good guard dogs. Are Victorian Bulldogs good pets? Are Victorian Bulldogs aggressive? Are Victorian Bulldogs smart? The Victorian Bulldog breed is a smart group of dogs. Their intelligence was handed down from their ancestral breeds. Do Victorian Bulldogs bark a lot? Do Victorian Bulldogs drool? Yes, Victorian Bulldogs drool, and because of their droopy jowls, they will drool a lot. Do Victorian Bulldogs have tails? The Victorian Bulldog breed is born with tails. Their tails are small, and either straight or in a corkscrew shape. Can Victorian Bulldogs swim? What do Victorian Bulldogs eat? The Victorian Bulldog is prone to obesity and should be consuming calories per day. They should eat 1 to 2 cups twice daily of high-quality dry, wet, or raw foods. Are Victorian Bulldogs outdoors pets? Victorian Bulldogs can be both indoor and outdoor pets. They enjoy playing outside or being inactive couch potatoes when inside. We promise to make your puppy purchase an enjoyable experience and ensure that your puppy is healthy, delivered safely, and right for you. Julian Perera.
golden retriever puppy is aggressive - We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. We put these two on our puppies from day 1 to get used to the feeling of a leash and collar. We have some more detailed information on best leashes and collars for your puppy below. I would advise against trying during the first 2 or 3 days in your home as they have enough to deal with getting used to a completely new environment and family. But by getting them used to a collar and leash at 10 weeks old, they will be comfortable wearing them by 12 weeks when you can start to walk them outside. How long will it take to get them used to a leash and collar? Some take hours, some take days, most will be comfortable by the end of 2 weeks as long as you take care to introduce them to it methodically. I have two highly informative buying guides for choosing the right size and style of leash and collar for every situation that you can find here: How to choose the right collars and how to choose the right leash. Otherwise it will be too heavy and uncomfortable. Choose a small, lightweight collar. The lighter it is, the easier it will be to get used to. Choose a wide, flat collar and not a thin round one. So get a wide flat collar, but one that is as light as you can find. Choose a collar with quick and easy to use clips and not a buckle fastening. You need to get the collar on and off as fast as possible and not have to fiddle with it. This makes the experience is as stress free as possible. Opens in new window. Be patient. It may take hours, it may take a couple of weeks, not all puppies learn at the same speed. So be patient and eventually they will get it. Try to act as though wearing a leash and collar is no big deal and is completely normal. Calm energy from you promotes calm energy in your puppy. They can become snagged on things and cause strangulation. For a puppy that constantly chews on the leash, spray it with Tabasco sauce, bitter apple or one of many other pet-safe bitter-tasting sprays available to deter their chewing. What you want to do is the first time you put it on, leave it on for just 5 minutes then remove it. Repeat this every half hour or 45 minutes for the first couple of days. Then leave it on for 10 minutes in each hour for the next day. Then 20 minutes in each hour the next day, and so on until you can leave it permanently on. By day 6 or 7 most puppies are used to their collar and comfortable wearing it for hours at a time. A puppy will learn at their own pace. To have the best chance at the quickest success, use the following tips and techniques. Any tighter than this is uncomfortable for your puppy and may even restrict their breathing. Any looser than this and they may be able to slip it off. This is why a plastic clip fastening is best as you can do it in a second. Some will remain quite calm rarely! A few will go absolutely crazy, scratch at it, roll around and make a huge fuss. You need to ignore their struggling. Just ignore all the fuss. To help combat this, you can use the power of distraction. Put the collar on before you feed your puppy one of their meals. Or put it on and then offer to play with them and their favorite toy. Also: You should only take the collar off when your puppy is calm and relaxed. Obviously you want to avoid this. So use food, training or play to distract them and get them into a calm state before you remove the collar. Then they will offer calm behavior to get it. You have to wait for calm. And you should also avoid giving treats when you take the collar off. Now, once your puppy is comfortable in a collar, you can move on to training them to get used to a leash. How To Get Your Puppy Used To A Leash ikostudio The following tips will get your puppy used to a leash and lay a great foundation to build upon for future leash training. You will learn to avoid developing bad habits that lead to pulling later on and develop good habits that help in future training. First of all, make sure your puppy is comfortable and confident wearing a collar, then in a secure and familiar room of your home you can attach a leash. As with the collar you want to almost ignore them. No encouragement, laughing or telling them off if they chew at or try to remove it. If the need arises, you can calm your puppy by using distraction. Call them over to you, ask for some obedience commands or offer them food or a toy and it will redirect their focus and attention away from the leash. Leave it laying just outside of their confinement area where they can see it but not get at it and use it as a chew toy, or place it near to their food bowl when eating so they can see it but will be too busy eating to want to play with the leash. We want them seeing the leash around to learn its nothing to fear, without being able to play with or chew on it. A good tip is to practice this from the minute you get your puppy home, a couple of weeks before ever attempting to attach the leash. Now you can start to pick up the other end. Instead, hold the leash and follow your puppy around, keeping the lead slack for them as you both go. It pays to have a pocket full of treats so if this does happen you can grab their attention and lure them toward you with a treat. You should practice this a few minutes every hour for a day or two. The first few times you lead them, have a treat in your hand or one of their favorite toys and use it to lure them around the room with you. Now put your puppy on the leash. Just encourage them your way you by calling their name and slapping your thigh. Make a HUGE fuss to make it a massive reward that they came to you. They will come eventually, just wait until they do and then praise and treat enthusiastically. Now repeat steps 1 to 4. Step 6: Repeat this exercise 5 to 10 times per session, each hour of the day and repeat for a few days until your puppy consistently moves toward you when they feel the slightest bit of pressure on the leash. This will not take long and once it is learnt it will benefit your future leash training massively! Step 2: As soon as they stop freaking out give total release of all pressure on the leash and give warm praise and a treat. This rewards them being calm. A few repetitions will teach them that outbursts get them nowhere and being calm gets the leash to slacken off and earns a treat. Step 3: Once your puppy has learnt to be calm to earn a loose leash, they have to do a bit more to earn their treat. Repeat this a few times. Step 4: Now only reward them for coming even closer. They will soon catch on to the fact that being calm and moving toward you earns praise and a treat. You can now follow the processes of stopping them pulling on the leash and leading them around the room as described earlier in this article. So try to avoid the following: Pulling on the leash yourself: This will achieve absolutely nothing. Additionally, dogs like most animals fight against restraint so when you pull, it just makes most pull harder. Also, your puppy pulls, they go forward. You pull back a bit, then eventually give in, they still go forward. So they learn your pulling is only temporary anyway and their pulling gets them where they want to go. Rushing forward to slacken the leash when your puppy pulls: This teaches the puppy that pulling works! When you snap or jerk a leash, you loosen it first, then snap it tight to startle a dog and get their attention. But when used incorrectly and too often, your puppy pulls, feels the leash go slack and then gets yanked back. Not good. We want them to think the pressure on the leash is totally released when they move toward us, so never add any back in although this is usually only a problem when using a long leash to be fair. Well, maybe this works to a degree. But by following the techniques described in this article, the process will be as stress free as possible, and you will have laid the foundations for training your puppy not to pull on the leash later, instead of them learning bad habits that you then have to break. Are you having problems getting your puppy used to his collar and leash? What techniques have your tried? Tell us about your experiences in the comment section below. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. These tips will also help you to advance your dog so that, eventually, you can trust them to be off the leash in a safe area. Don't release your dog until they can demonstrate knowledge and obedience on the long leash and in many different settings. To begin with, walk them in the house and in the yard. Dogs learn 'contextually and by repetition'. These hints will help you to become the pack leader. Be certain that this is only reason that your dog will follow you. Make time to walk your dog Whether you walk your dog in the morning or evening will be influenced by your program. Whenever you exercise your dog, the walk should allow for 'focused time' and 'free time'. Two leashes will facilitate this. If they are under 12 months old, take some water with you. Also take a back-pack and a treat belt available on Ebay. I recommend no more than thirty minutes of walking in total for a dog under 14 months old as their growth plates are not set until this time. Be careful of overly vigorous activity, particularly if you have an older but playful dog. I don't recommend running for more than very short bursts for the same reason. Healthy hips and elbows are critical for a healthy, active and long life. Use two leashes - a long leash approx 7m and a short leash approx 1m Start your walk with the labrador pup on a short leash. The short leash will help you to direct and guide the dog. This allows you to maintain full control over your dog. Set up your walk for success. Start by getting the dog to sit or at the least be stationary and under your control. As you begin, keep your dog behind your body alignment. Be patient and encourage your dog. Do not show aggressive frustration. This will only cause confusion and fear or aggression. If your dog is not complying, stop and reset. You are the master Walking in front of your dog demonstrates that you are the master or the pack leader. You should be first out the door. The dogs should exit the compound only at your command. This is essential whether you are walking 1, 2 or more dogs. If your dog controls the pace and direction of the walk, they are the pack leader. Your dog should be beside or behind you during the walk. Dogs learn contextually The next two hints are important training essentials. Firstly, labradors learn contextually and their training in not immediately transferable to a new environment. Using the same disciplines and routines, train your dog the same way in different settings. This will entrench your expectations. Correct immediately Secondly, a labrador has about a five second retention of information. After five seconds the dog has lost any association between your assertiveness and their behaviour. If they disobey you, you must correct them within five seconds or not at all. If the dog is disobedient or simply does not understand, reset and start again. The long leash I'm a big fan of the long leash. A long leash will help you to correct bad behaviour at a distance. After a period of training with the short leash, remove it and connect the longer lead. Keep the leash in your hand, releasing it slowly and progressively. As they master this, you can back away while the dog is 'sitting and staying'. Reward your labrador pup with vigorous affection and a treat. After this, you should allow them to wander and sniff around. All this time you will keep your dog on the long leash and under your control. Be sure that the free time is less than their focus time. During the socialisation phase, 8 - 16 weeks, you will need both leashes as you expose your labrador pup to other dogs. As you walk your dog, you will come across small and large dogs that are aggressive. Walking on either leash will give your complete control. And it will ensure safety at all time. You new labrador pup has no innate road sense. Walk them, getting close to roads. Expose them to vehicles so that they do not panic. Reward your dog for good behaviour. Remember that dogs register tones and frequencies, not words. Use higher tones to affirm, reward and encourage. You approval is the greatest reward for a Labrador. Direct eye contact without high vocal affirmation will be interpreted as aggression. Use lower growling tones to reinforce disapproval. Try to avoid 'No' as a command. It is too general and therefore confusing to the dog. Always reward and reinforce obedience to specific commands. Use food treats to begin with, however you must gradually phase them out. Your vocal affirmation and affection should be your longer term goal. As your dog maintains the proper behaviour, reward them with treats. Reward your dog after the walk I recommend that you reward your labrador pup after the walk. Let them have a drink firstly then give them a portion of food that is less than a meal but more than a treat. It will not take long for your dog to anticipate the whole experience. When you appear with the leashes, they will become very enthusiastic. If you adhere to these eight hints and maintain the discipline of your training, you and your dog will value and enjoy the experience. Finally, remember to pick up after your dog. Don't go on a walk without your poop bags on hand! Find a vet you can have confidence in. Pawling Chocolate and Black Labradors. Andorra and Spain I wouldn't use a front-fastening harness for a young puppy. They are generally used for stopping a dog from pulling, but don't help with training. Front fastener tend to either work by tightening around the dog as he pulls, making it uncomfortable to pull, which we'd call an aversive and most of us would choose to avoid. Or they work by preventing the dog from getting traction into the forwards motion, often by turning the dog slightly. If you have a problem with a dog pulling, and either have to have them on lead before they've been trained not to, or if you're physically unable to have the dog pulling you at all due to injury or somesuch, then they're fine. But in the case of a brand new puppy, I'd suggest that they're unnecessary, and you should be focussing on training him to walk without pulling from the get-go, which you can achieve perfectly well on a standard back-fastening harness. Since the puppy has no real weight to put behind it at this stage, you should be able to manage without the mechanisms in a front-fastener. I'd recommend looking at the articles on teaching your puppy to walk on a loose lead and start putting the recommendations into place immediately. Here are some articles that may help:. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. Then you get a reality check. Walking nicely on a leash is not an instinctive behavior, and your Lab is just as likely to try and pull you in whatever direction they choose. Until they start getting into their senior years, Labs are excitable, curious, and powerful animals. Labradors are well known as strong leash pullers. But, like any desirable behavior, your dog can learn and you can teach. If your Labrador pulls like a rambunctious plow horse, read on to find out how to get back on the straight and narrow. There are times when a dog will attempt to assert itself as the leader of the pack, and some people believe that pulling is just such an attempt. The simple truth is dogs are overcome with excitement and overwhelmed with sensory input when they get outdoors, especially someplace other than their own backyard. Over stimulation Before long, your dog is so caught up in seeing, smelling, exploring and peeing, that all training goes right out the window. Even the act of pulling itself can be rewarding if your Lab likes the feeling of a little extra exercise. Freedom and autonomy in the great outdoors! Now your dog knows that pulling on the lead pays off in spades. But once the association is made between the leash and going for a walk, it becomes one of the single most exciting objects in the world! Once all four paws are on the floor or the dog is sitting; whatever your preference then move to attach the leash again. If the bad behavior continues, you back off once more. Why leather leashes? Short Practice Sessions A simple way to preserve your patience is to keep the length of your training walks to a minimum. The more time you spend with your dog pulling you along, the more likely you are to become exasperated. Nothing good will come of that for either of you. You need to be in the right frame of mind to convey reinforcement to your dog. A good idea is to choose a short route in your neighborhood, and walk it repeatedly. A familiar walk is still a pleasant one, though considerably less stimulating. Your dog will be less distracted if he sees the same things repeatedly. Burn Off Extra Energy in Advance Dogs in general, and Labradors in particular, have a lot of energy and they need to expend it in some manner. Short walks will not be enough to keep them satisfied, and they may be inclined to try to make up for it by pulling extra hard. Have an exercise session before your training walks to help combat this problem. Have some fun throwing a ball around the yard, or get in a good game of tug-of-war before heading out on the town. I always figured playing toss with a tennis ball was enough, but three things sold me with the Chuck It. You can launch the ball further with less effort. Keep Up the Pace Being a fairly large breed, your Labrador will have no trouble outpacing you without much effort. Reward Good Walking You know from your other training sessions that your Lab loves treats! When the walk is going just the way you want, offer praise and a tasty reward. Do this frequently to keep reinforcing the good behavior. And make sure they are compact and easily chewed treats that can safely be eaten on the go. When your dog starts to pull, you stop walking! If your dog is already proficient at coming when called, even when there are distractions, this may be the method for you. This technique may be difficult for smaller individuals, the elderly, or anyone with a physical disability. Ask your dog to come to you and give the sit command. At this time, resume your walk. If they continue to walk along beside you, repeat your praise word and offer another treat. Keep doing this periodically. Should they start to pull again, come to a stop and repeat the first step. When they pulls towards an object, stop as you did before. Call them back and have them sit. Again, offer the word of affirmation, but do not give a treat. Instead, walk to the item they want to inspect and have let getting to the object be the reward. Load up your pocket with treats, or carry a treat bag on your belt. Keep several in your hand at all times while walking, and replenish from your reserve. Cut them up into smaller pieces to make perfect training treats! Every few seconds, pop a treat in their mouth. Should they start to veer off or get ahead and start pulling, the walk stops. As with the previous method, call your dog back to you and get them to sit. When they do, give praise and then resume the walk, once again with the treats held in front of the nose. After a bit of uninterrupted practice, say a week or so, stop carrying treats in your hand, but have them nearby. Keep offering them frequently. Begin offering treats less frequently; start by giving a reward every 5 steps or so, and then gradually space them out over larger distances. Be aware, this method should only be used if your dog is not wearing a head halter or slip lead. The idea of this technique is to surprise your dog when they reaches the end of the leash. First, start with a verbal warning cue for your dog when they are about to run out of slack. Give praise and a reward as you continue to walk. Keep walking in the opposite direction, and praise your dog as they catch up to you. Once your Lab is back beside you, resume walking in the original direction. Repeat this step as necessary. The idea is to teach your dog that walking too far ahead and pulling leads to an unpleasant sensation, and diverts the walk away from where they want to go. Use this method if positive reinforcement is not having the desired effect. Watch for signs that your dog is under extreme duress; cringing, cowering, yelping or any other outward display of fear or pain are clear indications that this method is not working. Desist immediately and try something else. Collar Tug Like the previous method, this technique also uses a bit of negative reinforcement, and should not be used in conjunction with a slip lead, or a head halter. Again, this should only be tried if positive methods are not proving fruitful. As before, when your dog is approaching the end of the leash, administer a verbal warning. The force of the tug will depend on the size of your dog, and it may need to be repeated before you really get their attention. In the case of my own dog, his neck muscles are far too strong to make this effective, and the same may hold true for your own Lab. Exercise extreme caution with this technique. Choosing a good collar and leash will help as you teach your Lab to walk nicely. The Classic Collar Of course a traditional collar is perfectly acceptable, either with a buckle or snaps. For a selection of classic collars recommended by us, please click here. Harnesses A harness is a good option, especially for anyone who has had difficulty walking a dog using a collar. Many dogs will respond to pressure around their neck by pulling even more in the opposite direction. Pull that one out at parties and impress your friends! Head halters and no-pull harnesses can be very helpful during training. They make your dog easier to control, and discourage pulling almost entirely on their own. Be warned, though, that they should not substitute for actual training if you really want your Labrador to learn to walk on a loose leash. While your dog will walk perfectly well when using this equipment, they are unlikely to repeat this behavior with a traditional collar. Choosing a Leash Make sure you give some thought to what leash to buy. When yours truly bought his first leash, the selection was based on color and not quality, a decision I regretted when my very eager puppy snapped the leash and made a run for it! This gives enough length to give your dog a bit of freedom, but keeps it short enough for you to maintain control and have them close enough to praise and reward. Click here to see a selection of leashes as recommended by us. Things to Avoid No decent dog owner wants to hurt their dog, and yet pain-inflicting devices are all too commonly used for training. As mentioned earlier, negative reinforcement can be helpful if used cautiously and sparingly. However, to use it as your sole method for loose leash training is not acceptable. Choke and prong collars deliver strong doses of pain to a dog in order to deter them from unwanted behavior. It is extremely difficult to control the amount of pain generated during a correcting move with such a collar, and the force delivered invariably exceeds the required amount. It is our very firm belief at Labrador Training HQ and in the dog community in general that these items are cruel and barbaric. Avoid them at all costs. The good news is the repetition can be fun and rewarding. You and your dog will get plenty of exercise and quality time together, and opportunities for socialization and training , too. Labradors are strong and energetic dogs, especially in their youth. They love to get out and explore, and this desire coupled with their devotion to their owners, make loose leash training, well… a walk in the park. Get out and enjoy! Are you having trouble with your Lab pulling on leash? What have you done to help get your dog to stop pulling? Tell us your experiences in the comment section below. A very good, 4-part guide with steps to follow to train a loose leash walk. I highly recommend checking this out! You might want to try some yourself? Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. Basic Dog Training How to Teach a Puppy to Walk on Leash The key to teaching a dog to walk on leash is taking it slow—and using lots of positive reinforcement. She is passionate about human-animal interactions, having founded the nonprofit Animal Assisted Professionals, which provides animal-assisted interventions, including animal-assisted therapy and activities. She has held roles in the pet industry that have included service and therapy canine training, rescue and shelter management, veterinary care, and animal behavioral consultation. In her free time she is passionate about providing animal-assisted interventions, training and preparing therapy dog teams, and spending time with her wonderful husband, charismatic daughter, two glorious dogs, and two very fluffy cats. Daily Paws' Editorial Guidelines Published on February 12, Whether you just brought home that tiny, fluffy bundle of puppy joy or you recently found your perfect canine match at the local shelter, every dog-owner relationship involves a great deal of time and effort dedicated to teaching important life lessons and skills. Our dogs are not born with the ability to comprehend human words and they certainly don't come equipped with the ability to walk nicely on leash. Walking on a leash is something every dog should know how to do. Not only does it allow them to journey about with you, their favorite human, but it also keeps them safe and protects other dogs and people, too. It doesn't matter if you live in the city or enjoy the quiet country life, your dog should always be walked on leash. Teaching them to walk by your side takes time, but with patience and positive reinforcement , you and your dog will be enjoying daily walks together soon. Teach a Marker A marker or bridging stimulus is a sound or hand signal that pinpoints the exact moment your dog did something that earned them a reinforcer a treat. A clicker is a great example of a marker and a conditioned reinforcer. If you don't have a clicker you can use a consistent word like "yes" or "good," or a hand signal like a thumbs up. But pick one and stick to it. Mark the behavior the second you see it. The more accurate and quick your mark is, the more effective your teaching becomes. Build a Positive Association Before he goes off on an outdoor adventure with you, your dog needs to feel comfortable and enjoy wearing walking equipment. This includes his collar, leash, and possibly a body harness. Be sure you are in a quiet, non-distracting area of your home like your living room. Start by giving your dog time to get used to wearing each item. Put his collar on while he plays in the house or goes outside to potty and each time you put it on, mark and reinforce by giving your dog a treat. Attach the leash to the collar for short moments throughout the day, being sure to mark and treat him as he moves a few steps while wearing it. If you plan to use a body harness , introduce it slowly, providing treats and praise as you place it over his head and connect the straps. Teach Your Dog to Give Attention It may seem as though you should just start walking with your dog but before you can move, you need to make sure he is actually paying attention, otherwise he may pull and dart about. Be patient and wait for your pup to offer you this is capturing even a tiny moment of eye contact or look at you—then immediately mark and reinforce. Repeat this frequently so that your pup understands looking at you equals treats. You can add a "cue" for attention, too. Say "look" or "eyes" right before your dog is about to look at you and then mark, reinforce, and praise. Start Moving by Backing Up This may seem counterintuitive, but the backward steps are a great way to begin moving without encouraging your dog to pull. With your dog wearing his collar and leash, take a few steps backward and as he follows you mark, reinforce, and praise. Gradually increase the number of steps backward you take. Start with two or three steps and then turn to walk forward two or three steps. Mark and reinforce him if he stays by your side. Practice With "Come" Teaching your dog to "come" while on leash is a great way to help prevent future issues or pulling or forging ahead. It also gives a good opportunity to teach your dog to come on cue without the risk of him running away. With your pup wearing his collar and leash, toss a treat just a few steps away from you. After he eats the treat and turns back around to face you, say "come" and quickly mark and reinforce the moment he moves towards you. Repeat this so it becomes a game of tossing a treat and then turning around to come to you for another one. Practice Taking a Few Steps on Leash Outside Once your dog has mastered the basics of leash training inside, you can begin to move outside, but be sure to find a place that has few distractions. Your backyard or garage are good options. Practice walking just a few steps and stopping and asking for attention. Mark and reinforce for moments of nice leash walking every few steps while in motion and anytime you stop, wait for their attention and then reinforce, too. Don't rush it! Baby steps, baby steps, baby steps. Gradually Increase Distance Slowly begin to move from your home to the neighborhood. Begin by walking the distance of just a house or two and gradually increase the distance as your dog masters the skill. Be sure to mark and reinforce constantly until your dog becomes better and better at this set of skills. It takes time to get good at coordinating the mark and treat delivering while moving, but after a few days of practice rest assured you will be a pro. Keep with it and stay positive! Remember that puppies have short attention spans despite their seemingly endless amounts of energy. Don't expect a young dog to walk long distances with you until they are more mature and grown. Be patient and allow your dog to sniff, to pee on trees and bushes doggie email , and to enjoy being outside with you. Walkies should always be fun, not a chore nor a time for perfect heeling. Was this page helpful? How to leash train a Labrador. Labradors can pull like trains Everywhere you go, you will see dogs on leashes. Others have a rather different style. You will see their owners, hurrying along with one arm stretched desperately out in front. A stressed hand grips an outstretched leash, and at the end of it a dog fighting for air. Front feet scrabbling at the pavement, this dog is intent on choking himself! One way to help resolve this unpleasant situation, is to teach your dog to walk on a loose leash. And you can do that by waiting them out. Where you just stand still and refuse to move forwards while the lead is tight. But this can take a very long time with a determined puller. Please avoid retractable leashes. Make sure the leash is attached to a body harness , which is much safer for a strong pulling dog. Later on, your dog will not need frequent feeding to maintain his loose leash, but to begin with generosity is the key. An event marker A clicker is used to accurately tell your dog exactly when she did what you wanted her to. It is a very helpful aid in the training process. But you can equally use your voice. If you have to drive your dog to a deserted car park or quiet street so be it. A hard surface tarmac or paved is ideal is helpful as it enables the dog to quickly find and pick up the treats. How often to train your dog Set aside at least ten minutes for this training and do it at least twice a day. Three or four times a day is even better. Try not to miss a day, at least for the first week How to leash train a Labrador Take your dog to your chosen training location and attach the lead to his collar or harness Step 1: Start Set off walking forwards Step 2: Stop As soon as your dog to gets to the end of the leash this may be almost immediately , stand still Step 3: Wait Now wait for the dog to give you some attention. Drop a treat just behind you for him to collect as he reaches you. Start walking forwards Step 1 again as soon as he has gathered his treat from the ground. The dog will probably then charge past you to the end of the leash. You know what to do. STOP walking. Make like a tree. Pause, gather your thoughts. Rinse and repeat the steps from 1 through 4. Make a little kissy noise with your mouth for example. As soon as he looks at you drop a little food on the ground then turn away from him. The idea is that when he eats the food he will be in the right position just behind you, and that this position will become attractive to him. Start associating a kissy noise with food, at home, in the garden, and elsewhere. Your rewards may need to be upgraded to something more attractive and smelly. He should be hungry and eager to eat. Making progress with loose leash walking The first few sessions will be a bit boring. There will be waiting, and hanging about. Hang on in there, you need to be determined. Just focus on the fact that you have simply had enough of letting your dog drag you around. It may take three or four sessions before the dog figures out there is no point in charging past you, starts to pay you more attention, and watch where you are walking. But these occasions will become fewer and further between. And you will be able to walk longer distances and get to where you want to go, without stopping and changing direction every two seconds. All you have to do is stand firm when your dog gets it wrong, and reward him when he gets it right. You can do this. It takes a little patience, but you can do it. Introducing distractions to loose leash walking Just like any other skill you teach your dog, you need to start in a distraction free area. But there comes a point, when the dog has really grasped what you are teaching him, when you need to introduce some distractions into your training. Dogs eventually have to learn to walk past other dogs, people and the neighborhood cat, without charging about like lunatics. It helps to start with any distractions at a distance and to set up training exercises where it is easy for the dog to win because you have some control over the other participants. You can do this with friends or at a training club. Write it down At the end of each session, I suggest you make a note of how you got on. Rewarding good behavior As your dog gets better at walking on a loose lead, it becomes tempting to forget the rewards altogether. This is a sure way to see your efforts undone. Always carry a few treats on you when you are out with your dog. Reward him from time to time when he is being good. He deserves it. Before you learn how to leash train a Labrador This is a simple exercise designed to help people who are struggling with a dog that pulls them around on a lead. This is because every forward movement your dog makes on the end of a tight leash is a reward for him an reinforces the pulling behavior. There are various ways to tackle this You can drive your dog to his exercise area You can stop exercising the dog outside of your own garden whilst you train him to walk to heel You can use an anti-pull device whilst you are not training him Just remember, you can teach an old dog new tricks. And if you stay calm and patient, your Lab will get there in the end too.
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golden retriever puppy is aggressive - We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. As we all know too well, what we put in our belly has a huge impact on our health, vitality, length and quality of life. They have to strike a fine balance between getting enough nutrients to grow and avoiding an over-abundance that can lead to abnormal growth and disabling conditions. In this article you will learn precisely how to feed your puppy. What they can eat, what they should not, how many times you should feed them each day, basic information on home-made diets and the pros and cons of various commercial dog foods. The majority of Labrador owners feed their puppy kibble. Kibble is ground meal, shaped into dried biscuit-like pellets that are extremely convenient to buy, store and feed, providing everything a puppy needs in one easy to handle product. All the major brands carry a range of kibble and many are specifically formulated to suit the precise needs of puppies. For our recommendations of the best puppy food for labs, please read our article on: The Best Food for Labrador Puppies. Good breeders will supply you with all the information you need to feed your new puppy and you should follow this advice. Puppies almost always get upset tummies during a change of diet. The stress of moving to a new home is enough to deal with without them potentially having tummy upset on top. So try to avoid this. But expect your puppy to get diarrhea after such a sudden change. What Can Puppies Eat? With a bewildering choice of different puppy foods available, what to feed your puppy may not be the easiest decision to make. You Can Feed Your Puppy Kibble Kibble is ground up food, formed into pellets and dried for easy storage and convenience. It is a specially formulated, complete and balanced diet, containing everything a puppy needs to grow and be healthy. Many people believe kibble is the best way to feed a puppy, with it being so easy to buy, store and feed while containing every nutrient a puppy needs in the right proportions. Wet, Complete Puppy Foods Are An Option As the name suggests, complete wet dog food is complete and balanced, meaning nothing should be fed in combination. Everything needed is included in this one food. Complete wet foods come in individual pouches or tins with one pouch or tin containing one single serving. In the main these foods are low in nutrition, contain a high amount of cheap fillers, by-products and water and need mixing with a biscuit to give them some substance and to make them more complete. Because the food is such low quality, you have to feed a lot of it. And what goes in, must come out. This type of feeding was popular decades ago and I do remember my parents feeding our first dogs this way, but most people have moved on from this and are feeding their dogs in better ways now. Raw Food, BARF And Home-Made Diets Raw feeding is a diet that consists of mostly raw meat, edible bones and animal organs, though most practitioners also mix in small portions of fruit, veg and selected other foodstuffs. There are many people feel strongly that this is the best possible way to feed a dog. But I would caution most people that to feed this diet successfully, you need to do A LOT of research, gain a lot of knowledge and truly understand a dogs nutritional needs to make sure they get exactly what they need in the right amounts. Many people wonder if they can feed their puppy human foods, anything found in the fridge or larder. Furthermore, there are many human foods that are toxic to dogs that you should avoid at all costs. Too much of some nutrients can be bad in itself, but also prevent the absorption and use of other nutrients too. So supplementing a balanced diet is a bad thing to do. Can You Give Puppies Milk? Assuming you get your puppy at the recommended 8 weeks, they will have been fully weaned before you bring them home. Many puppies are intolerant of cows milk and drinking it leads to an upset tummy and diarrhea so you would do best to avoid giving your puppy any milk at all. One exception is for very young puppies under 6 weeks of age. When we have newborn puppies at our house we sometimes need to supplement and use Esbilac Milk Supplemen t. However, if you have a very young puppy that you think may need supplementing please first consult with your veterinarian. Are They Necessary? You will likely be feeding your puppy a commercially available complete and balanced dog food, in which case you certainly should not supplement their food. Supplementing this will mean too much of one or more things, making it unbalanced which can actually lead to harm. But an excess amount of calcium in the diet of a Lab puppy can lead to skeletal development problems. So adding a calcium supplement to an already complete diet can actually do more harm than good. There may also be times your vet advises you to do so. But if feeding raw, you should know more about nutrition than I do. This is a hard question to answer and sadly I cannot give you a definite quantity or weight to feed them each day. Puppies grow at different rates, some are more active than others and there can be large differences between metabolisms too. However… The biggest determining factor is how concentrated the nutrients and calories are in the brand of food you feed them. High quality foods are nutrient rich and give a puppy all they need from quite small amounts of food. But cheaper brands are full of low quality and nutritionally empty fillers that mean a puppy needs considerably more to get what they need. Start by feeding your puppy according to the guidelines on the label of the puppy food you buy for them. Then see how their body develops. Puppies should not be fat! But at the other end of the scale if they start to look and feel a little slim, up their portion sizes a little. The guidelines on the food you buy are just that…guidelines. You might also be interested in:. Remember, Labs do not have a natural food intake regulator so you will need to monitor them with portion control. Using a cheaper brand is a poor option at half the price. You will use twice as much and you will have to clean up larger amounts of waste in your yard. To allow for an accurate control of body weight and growth rate, this amount of food can be dispensed over 3 meals per day. After 5 months of age, the feeding regularity can be reduced to two meals per day with the commensurate increase in food quantity. The amount of food a Labrador puppy requires will increase then level out during first 14 months of their life. At months, their bone density is increasing and their growth plates are set. We do not recommend desexing you pup until at least 3 years of age. This allows for an appropriate development and supply of hormone which in turn produces proper bone, muscle and vital organ development. Table foods dispensed randomly to dogs are not nutritionally balanced. We do not offer our dogs table food at all. There will be no problems if you are feeding a puppy with a homemade diet but it should be prepared from prescribed recipes that are nutritionally complete and balanced. Diets consisting of an unplanned and indiscriminate mixture of human foods particularly including carbohydrates will likely result in obesity and even dietary-induced disease. When you Lab reaches 14months of age, it should be given an adult food that contains less energy and calcium. This will decrease the risk of obesity and orthopaedic conditions. And do not feed them coffee or tea as they can contain caffeine, theobromine, and theophylline. These toxic substances can dangerously affect the heart and nervous system. Onions, garlic, raisins and grapes can be severely toxic in labradors. Raw meat is potential source of parasites and pathogenic bacteria for your puppy. Eggs yokes are an excellent source of protein. Raw eggs contain an enzyme called avidin, which decreases the absorption of biotin a B vitamin. This can, in extreme cease, lead to skin and coat problems. Liver contains higher levels of protein, fats, carbohydrates, minerals and vitamins. Raw liver can be a source of parasites and pathogenic bacteria. Excessive amounts of liver can cause Vitamin A toxicity. Raw bone chewing will control tartar buildup on a pups teeth. However, bone chewing can cause intestinal blockages and perforations. Never use cooked bones. Commercial Puppy Foods Most commercial puppy foods are designated for small, medium, large and giant breeds. This designation can be found on the label. Puppies of medium sized breeds are less than '25 kg fully grown adult body weight'. A full grown and lean Labrador will usually weigh between 25kg and 45kg. We feed our dogs at the 'lower' level of the recommended range. The 'Hills Body Fat Index' is a very helpful body shape indicator. The same food as the bitch You should feed your new puppy with the same brand of food as the bitch received during lactation. From 2 weeks into pregnancy, our expectant mothers are fed 'Royal Canin Labrador Puppy' food. Introducing a new brand of food If you are wanting to introduce a new brand of food to your puppy, then blend it gradually with the existing brand in increasing amounts over 3 days. This should prevent food rejection and any kind of gastric upset. It is best to choose a diet designed for large breed puppies. Selected commercial feeds should contain a limited percentage of filler compounds. Pawlinglabs uses Royal Canin Labrador as our preferred option. Growing labradors Labrador pups have a very steep growth curve, and their total daily energy needs do increase as they grow. Calculate the amount of puppy food that will satisfy that need. The feeding guidelines on the commercial pet food label provides an estimated quantity of feed for several different ranges in body size. These instructions will give you an estimated starting point for the particular brand. Medium or large? Medium breeds should be transitioned to an adult diet by 12 months of age, while large breeds between 14 — 18 months of age. Mature female labradors are medium and weight approx kg. Mature males are large and weight approx kg. Their calcium and energy content should not exceed that level recommended by a registered nutritionalist. Sound skeletal development Sound skeletal development in labradors is produced by the interaction of genetic, environmental, and nutritional factors. The phase prior to weaning and the growth phase, up to 14 months are integral to sound skeletal structure. Don't take your young pup on extended distance walks and certainly not 'running' until at least 18mths of age. You must avoid stairs and slippery floors for the same reasons. Their growth plates are set at about mths of age. Feeding and Overfeeding Large breeds like Labradors are the most susceptible to skeletal disease. Feed consumption, nutrients balance and feeding methods influence our ability to produce sound skeletal development and eliminate skeletal disease. Appropriate food consumption and nutrition plays a critical role in bone development. Overfeeding will not increase or benefit the growth rate of young and growing labrador puppies. And it does not correlate with optimal adult size. However, it does increase the risk of skeletal abnormalities. The vast majority of skeletal disorders occur in large breeds including labradors and they are associated with consumption of table food and an excessive intake of a commercial food and supplementation. The large breeds like labradors are limited in their ability to cope with an excess of minerals such as calcium. The result of this over consumption is abnormal bone development and skeletal disorders. Nutritional management will be critical in the to prevention of bone and joint diseases. In most cases, skeletal disease can prevented by appropriate quantities of feed in a regulated diet with optimal nutrient levels. A complete and balanced commercial diet is essential. Dietary deficiencies will be of little concern if your labrador pup is fed with a complete and balanced commercial diet. Brands like Eukanuba and Royal Canin are specifically formulated for young, growing labradors. There is real potential for harm by over feeding and giving additional supplementation. Housing safety and activity levels Housing safety and activity levels are under the your influence. Nutrition is also under your control and it is the single most important factor affecting the development of the musculoskeletal system. Energy, protein, and calcium are the critical nutritional components affecting skeletal development. However, if they are given in excess, they will be detrimental to normal bone and joint growth. Most pet owners feed commercial dog food. These prepared diets are balanced and complete. Pawling Chocolate and Black Labradors. How often and what time to feed I will show you the best puppy foods, whether dry, wet, or raw, and look at food safety, together with schedules, quantities and even a handy puppy diet chart. Best Puppy Food for Labs The best Labrador puppy food provides a diet that is nutritious, healthy, and tasty. So, what is the best puppy food for your Lab? Puppy kibble or dried food is the most popular option. Kibble is complete and can give a perfectly balanced diet. Puppy kibble and tinned dog meat combined is another common choice among puppy parents. Feeding your Labrador puppy on home cooked food or on a totally raw diet is also possible. Raw puppy food is growing in popularity, and there are pros and cons to raw feeding your puppy. People often feel very strongly that one way of feeding is better than another, and you can always find evidence to support your view. Dog breeders, veterinarians and even nutritionists have their own strong views. The dire consequences they list for not listening to them can have puppy owners very worried. The truth is that there is no good quality evidence showing that kibble is better for the long term health of your dog, or that raw feeding is better. There are risks and benefits to both, and the main thing is to ensure that your dog has good quality food to eat. Puppy kibble suits some better, and raw puppy food is better for others. Puppy Kibble for your Labrador Puppy food made into pellets is called kibble. An airtight plastic container or tin will do the job, although you should make sure it is food grade quality. Puppy kibble is the best way of feeding your Labrador according to most breeders and your veterinarian is most likely to support this method of feeding. Good puppy kibble will contain every nutrient your Labrador puppy needs in order to grow and remain healthy. The kibble pieces will be tasty, good for keeping teeth healthy, and free from additives that can provoke allergies or stomach problems. Labrador puppy kibble only needs to be fed next to water. Puppy kibble from a reputable manufacturer is intended to be a complete and balanced food. But some owners like to mix in canned dog food or even scraps of raw food with kibble. Your puppy is likely to get an upset stomach or to not have the right balance of nutrition when fed this way. Whether you decide to feed only with kibble or you want to mix it up, pick a good dried food manufacturer and stick with them. Feeding your Labrador puppy raw food has its benefits and drawbacks. One of the downsides is that there is a lot to learn. Here is a link to the articles you need to help you decide whether or not raw feeding is for you: Although I like the raw diet for my dogs, most puppies fed kibble go on to have long and healthy lives. Whatever puppy food you choose, the most important thing is portion control. How Much to Feed your Labrador Puppy? People often tell me how much their puppy weighs, and ask how much puppy food they should give him. Your Labrador is particularly at risk if they grow too quickly. The following diet chart is for kibble fed puppies and does not apply to raw fed pups. It gives you an idea of how much to feed your Labrador puppy Lab Puppy Feeding Chart The Lab puppy feeding chart below is only a very rough guide. The quantity of food you need for your puppy will vary depending on your puppy and on the brand of food you are feeding him. Labrador puppy food must be aimed at medium to large breed dogs. Check the pack carefully and look at the dietary charts. Ideally, you want the optimal protein content and the lowest amount of additives. Part of this always comes down to the cost. The healthiest puppy food is usually the most expensive and may not be affordable for some families. The Cost Of Puppy Food Some puppy food brands are more concentrated than and contain a higher proportion of proteins, essential oils, and other nutrients. The absence of these fillers means that you can often feed lower quantities of more costly food, making them less expensive than they first seem. You might also find that cheaper brands make your puppy poop more due to those extra fillers going straight through him. While some brands are beyond the budget of many families, it is usually good to buy a premium brand. High Quality Brands of Puppy Food Some brands of puppy food have developed a reputation for producing a high quality product and have many devoted supporters, including breeders that have fed them to generations of puppies. The best food for Labrador puppies to consume in their first two to four months of life is milk from their mother. This specialised care is usually left to trained breeders or veterinarians, who are knowledgeable in caring for pups with no mother to nurse from. If you have recently brought a Labrador puppy into your family, they are most likely older than 8 weeks, and so have started to eat solid foods. You can do this by mixing some dry food with specially formulated puppy milk to form a soft mixture. You can feed your puppy this mixture three to four times a day. Over time, you can reduce the amount of milk you include in this mixture, until they are at the point where they are happily eating dry foods. Read on to learn how much you should feed a Labrador puppy as they get older. In their four months living with you, and once they are weaned off milk, Labradors are likely to reach almost half their adult weight. They will reach their full adult weight by the time they are 6 to 7 months old. With this rapid growth can come some risks. Labradors can be susceptible to bone growth disorders, like hip dysplasia and joint abnormalities that can start in puppyhood. Once your Lab puppy hits 6 months, their growth begins to slow down. Once puppyhood is over, you can move to feeding your lab twice a day instead of 3 or 4 times. Labs are still very active in their adolescent years, and so should be fed with this in mind. The transition from puppy food to adult food should happen at around 15 months. This is because, being a breed who grows very quickly, you want to ensure that you are feeding them according to their large breed needs. You need to take special care when considering what you should feed your Labrador puppy, as they require different nutrients compared to their adult counterparts. It is also dangerous for a puppy to overeat. Labradors are large breeds, which means they need plenty of nutrients and calories as they grow to ensure they go from being active puppies to healthy adult dogs. Labrador puppies need to eat food that is high in proteins and fats. Carbohydrates are also essential for supporting your active pup. Aside from nutritionally complete dry puppy food, Labrador puppies can benefit from the extra protein that raw meat can provide them with, such as lean beef, turkey, chicken, or fish. The amount of food you give your Labrador is determined by their weight, energy levels, and age. For most adult Labradors, around 1, to 2, calories per day from high quality food sources is ideal. Female Labradors, who tend to be around 5 to 10 kilos lighter than males, may need less food, as will less active dogs. Dogs who need less food, whether they are less active or simply older, will usually still need around 1, to 1, calories per day. You may want to alter the amount of food you are feeding your Labrador based on how calorically dense their food is. Adult Labradors should be fed twice a day, once in the morning and once in the evening. Their daily allotment of food should be split evenly between these two meals. For most dogs, it is recommended that you exercise your dog before meal times to assist with potty training. However, some dogs may benefit from exercise after eating: especially high energy Labs with a lot of energy to burn off. You should also try to give your Labrador a high quality food that is specially designed for large breeds, especially if they are very active. For example, less active senior dogs will need to eat less food as they will not be burning calories as quickly as a lively little puppy will. Senior dogs may benefit from a higher fibre and lower calorie diet. Your dog may also develop chronic or short term medical conditions that require specially formulated food. For example, Labradors can be particularly susceptible to obesity. As a breed, they tend to be one of the most commonly obese dogs in Australia. This is due to several factors, including a genetic predisposition to unhealthy weight gain and a famously large appetite. However, plenty of Labs suffering from obesity are simply overfed and not getting enough exercise. Choosing a low carb diet is crucial to preventing obesity in your Labrador. If you are unsure about what you should feed your Labrador, you should always consult your vet. They will be able to determine if your dog is suffering from any chronic health issues, and they will be able to create a nutritional plan to help keep your dog healthy and happy for many years to come. Wet food for Labradors is often high in protein and fat, and is better at keeping your dog hydrated than other food sources. Chewing on dry food can be especially good for teething Labrador puppies. A raw diet can be a good option for your Labrador as you have more control over the kinds of food and amount of nutrients your pup is consuming. For this reason, raw diets require a lot more work on your part as an owner. Whatever you decide to feed your Labrador, all dogs need a similar ratio of nutrients in their diets. Different dog breeds will need different kinds of nutrient support as they go through the various stages of their life. It can also be easy to overestimate the amount of food your Labrador needs to stay fit and healthy — especially if they are skilled at begging! You need to make sure that your dog is eating the right amount of food for their breed, their size, and activity level. You should also avoid foods that, while delicious for humans, can be harmful or toxic for dogs. Foods like onions, nuts, alcohol, cooked bones, and artificial sweeteners are commonly included in dinners meant for humans, but can cause serious health issues for your Labrador. No matter how old your Lab is, it is important to keep to a consistent feeding schedule. A feeding schedule can help you keep track of any changes in behaviour around food that might signal illness or physiological stress.