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Page 8 Hurley the Boxer puppy at 4 months old; Hurley looks a lot like Bruno. On one of the first warm days of the spring season Bruno the Boxer enjoys sitting outside in the sun. Later Bruno decides it's time to also warm up his underside. His father is a very tall, confident male and his mother is a very gentle and attentive female. Ramsey is very attached to his family and whines at the window when my husband goes to work or when my daughter gets on the school bus. He is also very gentle to my year-old daughter. He often falls asleep with the children on the rug in the family room. He needs to be out! He loves to play fetch and leaps over fallen trees in the woods. He walks 3x a week and plays with the kids or ball for the remaining week days. Ramsey loves people and children. He becomes excited when extended family members visit and sits in their lap so that they won't leave. We love him very much. He also doesn't realize that he's 70 pounds of pure muscle and tries to be a lap dog like a Yorkie! Sadie loves this football; she plays tug-o-war with it. In this picture she had been holding it in her mouth for the longest time. Lacy Ann Price the Boxer at 11 years old Frank the white Boxer 7-month-old Daria with her tongue hanging out Caesar the brindle Boxer at 9 months old Simba the white Boxer puppy at 4 months old Simba the white Boxer at 7 months old. A little cuckoo in the best way. These are a few ways that parents of Boxer puppies might describe their pooches. The Boxer is one of the most popular dog breeds for good reason. Those adorable looks are backed up by big personalities. Do you think a Boxer puppy is right for you? Brush up on your facts about Boxer puppies before you adopt! That can make quite a mess! Boxers are known for their puppy-at-heart attitude that shines through their young adult years. Be sure to give your Boxer puppy plenty of space to exercise and play, and teach them how to settle down if need be. This stubbornness also can carry over into aggression. Some Boxers can get rough with dogs of the same size and sex. Be sure to socialize your Boxer pup early and often and set up expectations early to avoid too much drama. Your Boxer puppy will have tons of energy, but as they age, the need for snuggles and downtime will start to balance out with the need for play. Boxer puppy sitting in grass Boxer puppy looking up at camera Boxer puppy looking at camera Boxer puppy running Boxer puppy Boxer puppy lying in grass. Our stock photo library contains a vast collection of images featuring these adorable canines. Our collection boasts everything from playful puppies to majestic adult dogs, and they come in a range of styles, including black and white, color, and more. When selecting an image, it's important to consider the purpose of your project. For example, if you're creating a website or social media platform aimed at promoting boxer dog fitness, you may want to use images of active dogs running or playing. Alternatively, if you're creating a blog post or article about the breed's history, an image of a statue or painting could be a good fit. No matter what the purpose of your project, our boxer dog images are sure to fit your needs. All of our images are available in high-quality JPG, AI, and EPS formats, meaning they can be used for print or digital marketing initiatives, social media posts, websites, and more. Suitable for Every Project Our boxer dog images are not just limited to pet-focused projects. These furry companions are versatile and flexible, and their images can be used across a range of industries. If you're in the pet industry, images of boxer dogs could help you attract more customers, as the breed is incredibly popular. Alternatively, you could use these images for non-pet related projects like book or album covers, greeting cards, or calendars. Make your Project Stand Out In a world of digital noise, it's essential to make your projects stand out. One of the best ways to do that is by incorporating high-quality images, and our boxer dog images will surely do the trick. They're not just cute and lovable; they're also expressive and full of character, making them perfect for a wide range of projects. Take your project to the next level with our boxer dog images, and you'll definitely make a lasting impression. Nothing Beats Authenticity When choosing the perfect photo for your project, you want to make sure that it's authentic and reflects the desired tone and mood. Our boxer dog images are real photographs of these lovable dogs, meaning you can trust that they are genuine and free of any awkward or stiff poses that sometimes come with posed photoshoots. With our boxer dog images, you'll get pictures that genuinely reflect the breed's personality, making them ideal for projects that require authentic, natural-looking visuals. Conclusion Our boxer dog images offer endless possibilities, designed to suit projects of all kinds. With high-quality images available in various formats and styles, our collection is an ideal selection for web and print design, social media, and other projects that can benefit from their irresistible charm. Selecting the right images for your project can seem daunting, but with our straightforward and vast stock photo library, you can choose the perfect image for your project in no time. Get your hands on these fantastic boxer dog images for your project and watch it come to life with the perfect visuals.

As a medium to large-sized dog breed, Boxers need more time to fill out and reach their full size than smaller dog breeds. As a general rule, expect your Boxer to grow until they are 18 to 24 months old. Keep in mind that this range is an estimate, so there are always exceptions. Image Source: Canva How big should a 6-month-old Boxer be? A 6-month-old male Boxer should weigh around 41 to 48 pounds, while a 6-month-old female Boxer will weigh about 39 to 44 pounds. According to Care. For a male Boxer puppy, this would be around 17 to 19 inches tall. Pro Tip: Check out this downloadable new puppy checklist covering topics like vaccination schedules, setting up the home for a new puppy, teething, veterinary visits, and more! How much bigger will my Boxer get? There are several ways to estimate how much bigger your Boxer will grow. If your Boxer is less than two years old, they are likely still growing. Some Boxers stop growing closer to 18 months, but many Boxers will continue to fill out in weight and body size until they are two years old. A puppy will rarely be larger than either parent, so this can give you a clearer idea of their maximum size. Do their paws look oversized compared to their legs and the rest of their body? This is a strong sign that your Boxer is still growing and filling out! What is the size of a full-grown Boxer? According to the American Kennel Club Official Boxer Standards , a full-grown male Boxer will stand around 23 to 25 inches tall, while a female Boxer will stand about .A fully grown male Boxer will weigh around 60 to 70 pounds, with their female counterpart will weigh about 55 to 65 pounds. As with many things, prevention is always better than treatment. Taking your Boxer to regular veterinary appointments is one of the best things you can do for their health, along with consistent love and care at home. One of the best things you can do at home is brush your dog's teeth regularly to help prevent painful periodontal disease and avoid pricey dental treatments in the future. Periodontal disease can cause bad breath and oral pain for your pup and may require your Boxer to have a dental cleaning or tooth extractions under anesthesia at some point in their lives if not attended to at home. Keeping your Boxer at a healthy weight is crucial for their longevity, overall health, and happiness. If your Boxer is overweight, talk to your veterinarian to develop a weight loss strategy so that you can get them back on track. Consult with your veterinarian about the ideal food and exercise for your Boxer. Like all dogs, Boxers have certain conditions that they are prone to. Boxers are a purebred dog breed prone to heart problems, like cardiomyopathy, heart valve narrowing, and congenital heart defects. Brachycephalic syndrome increases their risk of respiratory distress, allergies, heatstroke, and sinus problems. Regular veterinarian appointments are crucial in finding and treating illness early to give your Boxer the healthiest and longest life possible. Unfortunately, veterinary bills can be costly with many treatments for emergencies and illnesses, such as heart problems, being thousands of dollars to treat. When surveyed, .The financial safety net provided by pet insurance is why pet insurance is worth it for many pet parents. Keep in mind that even healthy behaviors, like exercise, can be overdone. Consult with your veterinarian about how much exercise is prudent. Medium to large-sized dogs that are still growing may suffer from joint damage if they are overexercised. Make a plan with your veterinarian today to provide your Boxer with the ideal amount of exercise to keep them lean, healthy, and happy. Boxer puppies grow into strong and sturdy adults that make fun-loving, often silly companions, and fierce protectors. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. This post may contain affiliate links. Read more here. Courage and loyalty are attributes the Boxer is usually described with. With a good work ethic, playful demeanor, and a goofy face, this dog breed ranks among the top 10 in the USA for a while now. Their nobility and elegance came to focus after the originally working breed Boxer became unemployed during the early 19th century. The breed name derives from the way they defend themselves with their paws while playing. It really appears as the dog spars with the front paws. There is no doubt one might be tempted to get bring home one of these loving fellas. The growth in dogs has much to say about their health and potential — but how? While growing up dogs that suffer from some diseases might stagnate more than others. Boxers are a medium to large dog breed and are pretty safe from the usual bone and muscle disorders in larger dogs. However, hip dysplasia remains one of the most common issues. Reputable breeders will let you meet the parents and give you contacts from owners of puppies born in previous litters. Most Boxer puppies will correspond just fine to the ranges mentioned for their age. It is super important to not rush the growing process. Dogs that are overweight can experience problems later on in life that might have been avoided by maintaining an appropriate body condition. Moreover, the veterinarian can have the pup checked for possible health conditions causing the slow growth. Photo by otsphoto on Shutterstock Even with late bloomers, there is no reason to worry. Some dogs experience growing episodes sooner than others. The same rules apply to puppies that grow too fast. Damage due to wrong feeding can be avoided by using high-quality premium food and sticking to the recommendations according to weight and age on the labels. Never miss out on consulting your vet on the topic first — they will be glad to guide you through it! Boxer Growth Stages Until they reach adulthood, Boxers go through 3 growth stages. The general difference between the growth stages is how fast the puppy grows during the period and how they appear in posture and body condition. The first stage is from birth until they are 2 weeks of age. After the second week, the growth rate slows down. Most breeders wean the puppies off around the 4th-5th week. At 18 months of age, you can probably introduce your companion as a fully developed, curious, and independent adult Boxer. Boxer puppies have somewhere between 2. At the end of the first stage, they can reach around 4. At 1 month of age, their stuffed muscle figure comes at about 5. By the time they are 16 weeks old, males weigh lbs .Male Boxers are expected to have approximately lbs .In the next six months, the growth slows down to about lbs 0. Male Boxers should weigh around lbs kg by the time they reach 6 months of age. Female boxer puppies are expected to have lbs kg when they are half a year old. Since the Boxer qualifies as a medium to large breed, it takes longer for them to reach their full-sized version compared to other smaller breeds. There are exceptions when Boxers complete the growth at 20, even 24 months. Female Boxers that are done growing up weigh approximately lbs kg and stand .Their male counterparts have between 60 and 70 lbs kg and are 23 to 25 inches cm tall. In the meantime provide quality food, regular exercise, and maintain regular veterinary check-ups to ensure their well-being. As with all other dog breeds, some adult Boxers will be smaller than the standard dimensions of the breed. On the other hand, there is a handful of those that are larger than the standard too. Genetics is the most probable cause for this. Rarely do Boxers end up being smaller than the rest due to low production of the growth hormone. Luckily growth hormone problems in Boxers are very rare and other breeds such as the Miniature Pinscher, Spitz, or Karelian Bear Dog are more prone to the condition. Growth defects in dogs can appear due to Dwarfism Achondroplasia. Minor deformities can be surgically corrected, but again with a dubious prognosis. In Conclusion Understanding the growth chart will help you understand what role nutrition, diet, and exercise plays and adjust accordingly. Getting rid of excess weight or ruling out health issues is something you and your vet can work on together. Disclaimer: This blog post does not substitute veterinary attention and does not intend to do so. I am not a veterinarian or pet nutritionist. If your dog shows any sign of illness, call your vet. Post navigation. We can see when your Boxer puppy will become their adult size and reach its full height. Your new puppy will grow rapidly for the first two weeks. Your pup should weigh between 4. When your doggo is between six and eight weeks old, they should also prepare for their first vaccinations. Males should be around 17 to 19 inches .At one year old, females should weigh between 55 and 65 pounds .Many factors are involved. For your doggo to maintain a healthy lifestyle, monitoring their growth and weight is a good idea. How can you tell how big a Boxer will get? Within the first six months of age, your Boxer will grow rapidly. You can tell how big your pooch may get by looking at their paws and head. For example, your furry friend may look disproportionate for a while. However, some parts of their body will catch up to the rest within a few months or even a few weeks. Is your Boxer at a healthy weight? You can typically tell whether or not your Boxer is at a healthy weight by their ribs. But, on the other hand, if you can feel and see their ribs, they may be underweight. Always check with your vet to be on the safe side. What are some Boxer dog body shape changes? Boxer puppies grow in height faster than their weight gain. When this dog breed matures and becomes an adult, they will have a wide chest. But, overall, Boxer is strong and lean. In addition, different factors are involved when it comes to impacting how your dog grows. In addition, reputable breeders should have this information. The nutrition you feed your pooch can help or hinder their growth. For example, if you feed them dog food with unhealthy fillers and lots of fat, they may become obese, thus hurting their growth and overall health. Will neutering or spaying your Boxer affect their growth? Spaying or neutering your Boxer has more pros than cons. For example, some health conditions may include hip dyslexia, bloat, acne, arthritis, and cancer. The best way to ensure your pooch remains healthy is to work together with your veterinarian. Take your dog to regular vet appointments at least once per year for an annual check-up. In addition, talk to your vet about the type of dog food and exercise your Boxer should be getting. If your doggo is overweight or underweight, the vet will be able to help. Finally, properly groom your doggo. Physical activity Boxers need plenty of room to run around and stretch their legs. However, they love to play and enjoy a round of fetch with you in a fenced-in yard. Just be sure to wait until their bones and joints are fully developed before taking them for jogs or hikes. Otherwise, they could have joint issues later in life. Dangers of stunted or accelerated growth If your Boxer is a little bigger or small than the others of its breed, that may not necessarily be a bad thing. However, some issues can occur. For example, your pooch may be smaller due to a growth hormone deficiency. This controls the growth rate in dogs, their bone and teeth development and maintains a healthy coat. Dwarfism could also be the reason. When do Boxers stop growing? You can expect your Boxer to be fully grown and stop growing between 18 and 24 months of age. This system works on a scale of one to nine. One means your pup is underweight and unhealthy. Nine means they are extremely overweight. The ideal place on the scale where you want your large dog to be is a five. What should you do if your Boxer is growing too fast? Growth disorders can occur in larger dogs, such as Boxers. If you notice your dog growing too fast, talk to your vet first. How to help your Boxer lose weight if he is overweight? This includes their diet and exercise. Take a look at what dog food you feed your pooch. In addition, do you feed your doggo people food and table scraps? Do Boxer mixes vary in size? If you want to learn more, you can read about Boxer mixes here. How Big Is Your Boxer? These happy doggos are a delight to have around. Boxers are great companions dogs for anyone young or old. While this pooch can have certain health conditions, they do have an average growth track. Overall, with proper exercise and dieting, your Boxer will develop into a happy, healthy pup. Did your Boxer puppy grow on track? Let us know in the comments below. Further reading: Learn more about the Growth of other Dog Breeds. How often should you bathe a boxer puppy? Birth of the puppy - First cleaning After giving birth, the boxer mother licks her cubs thoroughly and places them neatly in her basket or bed. From that moment onward, when they urinate or defecate most likely the mother will groom them and lick their deposits - in the wild they do this to avoid being tracked by their smell and thereby confuse predators. Ideally, the pups remain for at least three months with their mother and it is her who teaches them about behavior and cleanliness; boxer dogs, despite their drool, are a particularly clean breed. First month of life Unfortunately, most puppies are separated prematurely from their parents, sometimes even as soon as 15 days old. This means that they do not learn as fast as they should, and they do not have the warmth of their parents, which hinders their whole learning process. For this reason, if your boxer puppy is under a month old you must avoid bathing it at all costs. As boxer puppies are so small, they will have difficulty regulating their temperature. If your boxer puppy has urinated or has dirtied themselves in any other way, you should use baby wipes. These are only slightly damp, and they will remind them of their mother's tongue. You can also use a very soft natural hair brush and brush them every two or three days. Two to three months old At this stage, the puppy begins to receive its vaccines. It is very important to note that you should not bathe your dog if it has been less than a week since they were vaccinated, or before doing so. Also this is when they learn a routine of urinating and defecating, and in order to avoid them getting dirty we recommend keeping track of the times they relieve themselves, which are usually after sleeping and eating. If you still think that wipes and brushes are not enough because your boxer puppy is fouling that much something which not should happen , you can start to think about giving them their first bath, but always keep to the timelines mentioned above before and after any vaccinations. As always, make sure you're properly following the recommended vaccination schedule for dogs. How to bathe a boxer puppy Before you do anything, check with your vet which is the best shampoo for your boxer puppy; their skin is too sensitive to use one for adult dogs. Follow these steps: Get a small plastic container. Find a warm and draft-free place in the house. Fill the container with warm water. Wash the pup and apply shampoo. Rinse off and take them out of the water. Dry thoroughly with a towel or even use a hairdryer at a low setting if it is still damp; a puppy cannot stay wet. Although the experience of bathing a boxer puppy is sweet and fun, you should not do it on a regular basis as puppies have natural fat in their skin that gives them some protection. For this reason, if you bathe them constantly you will eliminate the layer of protection, exposing it to the environment, diseases, allergies and sensitivity. Avoid washing your boxer puppy unless it is strictly necessary and leave a minimum of days between baths. Puppies Boxer puppies are just adorable. Having a new boxer puppy at home is just overwhelming. But have you ever thought about the responsibilities you will have to handle and take care of? Besides, its not only about responsibility and taking care of your Boxer puppies, it about understanding their behavior in each development stages. Well, this article will help you in every way about Boxer puppies. The newborn puppies will only move to regulate their body temperature or when they are hungry. Newborn Boxer Puppy. Image Source — Blogspot. Newborn Boxers will not be able to hear, see or sense anything. Their eyes and ears will be closed until the end of week two. They will be unable to sense the human stimuli until they can see or hear. Neonatal stage is a very delicate stage for the puppies. Therefore, keep a close eye on Boxer puppies, whether they have been abandoned by its mother or littermates. If any puppy is abandoned, bottle feed them and keep them in a warm place. Or, it will die. Transitional Stage — 2 to 4 Weeks The transitional stage is a serious development stage. You can see your Boxer puppies opening their eyes and trying to wag their tails for the first time. Your Boxer puppies will also start walking a bit between two to three weeks. Image Source — Instagram. Baby Boxer will now want to explore the surroundings and will run around littermates jumping and growling. Socialization Stage — 4 to 12 Weeks Boxer puppies will start playing and running around the house with their littermates. They will be mischievous and may want your attention too. From the third and fourth weeks of their development, Boxer puppies will control their bowel movement as they move away from their whelping box. Many puppies will start having worms at this stage. And the mother Boxer may lose interest in cleaning her puppies excretion, having said that, you will have to take a step forward to clean the surroundings. This is the high time you socialize your puppy and give some basic training. By the eighth week, Boxer puppies will start being familiar with the surroundings and the people in the house as well. You should socialize the puppy with other animals as well as people around your neighborhood. A well-socialized puppy always defines a well-behaved dog. Otherwise, the Boxer puppies will try to dominate you. You should teach them the meaning of submission and dominance. From the starting of three months, your Boxer puppies will start feeling the independence and confidence in them. You should keep the training consistent as this is the very fragile time your Boxer puppy needs to learn. Furthermore, when they reach the age of four months old, you can send them to advance training classes. Adolescence — 6 to 18 Months Now your Boxer puppies are not puppies anymore, adolescence has now hit them. Your Boxer will now lose their puppy face completely and are now adult versions of themselves. Boxers will now lose their baby teeth and their second teething phase is likely to get started. During these months, your Boxers will grow stronger and more energetic. You should increase the training session according to their diet. Not a Puppy Anymore. The medium-sized breed tends to grow fast physically but their mind will still be a puppy until the end of the month. You should take care of their diet as well as their behavior. A well-trained puppy only grows as a well-behaved dog. Vaccination Chart For Boxers. Boxer Newborn Puppy Care Overview If you have had a litter of Boxer puppies at your home and you are in charge of taking care of a newborn Boxer puppy, much attention must be taken during the first 8 weeks. From the moment of birth until the pups are at least 2 months old, a person must be close by and ready for any situation. Each week will bring new changes and responsibilities. This is a crucial time for care that can shape the health of the dog for its lifetime. How to Know if a Boxer Puppy is Getting Enough Milk The amount of times that a newborn puppy drinks milk from its mother varies from pup to pup. The important aspect is to know if a puppy is receiving enough throughout the day. Sometimes larger newborns will push their way to Mama and smaller puppies may not be getting enough milk. Some puppies may not be strong enough to suckle from smaller nipples some will be larger than others or strong enough to suckle once other pups have done so, and as the milk supply runs lower a puppy needs to suckle harder. How do you know if a Boxer puppy is getting enough milk? It is important to weigh each puppy. This can be done with a baby scale or electronic kitchen scale. Of course, take great care when weighing them. Always use the same type of blanket or cushioning on the scale so that you always get an accurate weight and the blanket does not affect the weight Weigh each puppy 2 times per day: AM and PM Keep careful track of who is who! You can do this by using a dot of white-out fluid applied to the ear in a certain area or other gentle marking method If a puppy shows no weight gain each day, you must take steps to ensure that pup receives more nutrition If a newborn is not gaining weight: Give the larger puppies a supplement Allow the smaller puppy to drink first; the larger puppies will have more strength to suck harder to retrieve their milk If There is a Weight Loss: This can be extremely dangerous. During the first few days it will not be milk; it will be Colostrum. This is a highly nutritional fluid that gives vital antibodies to the puppy. The puppy will sleep almost all the time, when not drinking. The Boxer pup will also make soft noises. As long as the puppy's body is warm and you feel him or her breathing naturally, all should be fine. A puppy this young will not be able to eliminate on its own. The mother will lick the pup to stimulate the expulsion of bowel or urine. Do not be shocked if the dam then eats this. The newborn Boxer puppy will have its eyes closed. They will stay this way for about 10 to 15 days. The umbilical cord will still be damp and certainly not ready to fall off. Day 2 It is perfectly normal for a Boxer puppy to lose weight on its 2nd day of life. Carefully watch for any Boxer newborn that seems to be getting pushed out of the way by other pups and unable to drink from mom. If this is happening, remove the other puppies after they feed and allow the hungry puppy to nurse alone, not bothered by their brothers and sisters. Day 3 Talk to your veterinarian regarding docking the tail , if you have decided to do so. This is often done on day 3. This decision should be carefully thought about. In addition, the Boxer puppy's cord will be dry and just about ready to fall off. Dewclaws, if removed, are usually done so on this day by your dog's experienced veterinarian. Week 1 Puppies should be weighed each day. This can be done by preparing a small basket, lined with a soft and clean towel. The basket can be placed on the scale first, with the weight noted. Then, the puppy should be placed inside the basket. Subtract the weight of the basket to have the exact weight of your Boxer puppy. There should be an increase each day. If not, be sure to immediately contact your dog's veterinarian. Nails grow very quickly and should be trimmed as often as each day if needed. A clotting solution, such as Kwik Stop should be used in case the quick of the nail is cut by accident something to carefully avoid. As the pup matures, many owners find that a grinder tool works much better than a clipper. Some dogs need to learn to tolerate the noise, but once they do, grinding down nails can be fast and easy. Week 2 The eyes of the Boxer puppy may begin to open. This is a slow process in which they will open bigger and for more time each day. Puppies will still be nesting near mom. You should take a bit more time to handle the puppies. This is done to slowly allow the mother to become used to you holding them and for the puppies to begin bonding with you. Week 3 The Boxer puppy's eyes should be completely open. Ears will be open now, as well. The ear canal should be fully formed. This is a bit of a noisy time, as the Boxer puppies will begin to find their "voices" and begin to bark. A 3 week old Boxer will have an urge to leave the whelping box. They will have an instinctual urge to eliminate outside of their resting and sleeping area. One side of the box can be removed, with newspapers placed right outside. A 2nd box can be connected to the 1st whelping box. This will allow the pups to have room to romp around and play. This will also give the Boxer mom time to rest without her puppies jumping all over her. Allowing the puppies to play with each other in a safe and comfortable box is a necessary part of the first socialization they need. Week 4 When does a Boxer puppy begin eating solid food? The weaning process begins just about now, in Week 4. You may also wish to offer the very health option of homemade meals of only fresh ingredients. Start with small amounts. It will be a slow yet steady process for a puppy's digestive system to become used to solid food. Extra heating can be removed. The room should be at a comfortable 72 F .Week 5 You should begin introducing small toys to the puppy. The weight of the puppy should still be checked, this can be done every other day now. Normal weight varies very much but should fall in the range of 2 lbs. Feeding should change slightly, with more puppy food and less water. The dam may want to spend more time away from the puppies. This is where an owner must step in and have much more interaction with the puppies. While still fragile, they should be more than happy to be patted, cuddled and played with. Week 6 A Boxer puppy will be eating quite a bit of puppy dog food than before. Too young to be house trained , this may be a messy week or 2 since bowel movements will become more frequent. While it is too early to expect a puppy to be trained yet, if the weather is warm and day this is a great week to introduce a puppy to the outside world. If you are caring for more than 1 pup, take each one outside separately or 2 at the most. Always keep the Boxer on a leash and beware of any dogs in the area. Allow them to become used to what grass feels like! Allow a pup to enjoy the warmth of the sun and the refreshment of a cool breeze. Week 7 Puppies may not be nursing at all any more. They should be spending quite a bit of time with you and with the other puppies. Going outside should be a daily routine. The dam should be brought outside with the pups; she will use this time to teach them skills. This is the time to be very close to a dog's normal routine of grooming , feeding, exercise and play time. Week 8 This is the week that the puppies will receive their 1st vaccinations. If you will not be keeping the puppies, now is the time to begin the process of finding them a good home. All prospective owners should be evaluated fully. Make home visits if possible. Do not be afraid to ask many questions. If you will be keeping all or some of the puppies, now is the time to fall into normal care for your dog. Housebreaking training can begin as well as falling back into your normal schedule. See Also: Boxer puppy care - Overview of what is needed to take great care of a new Boxer puppy. Boxer dog questions and answers - Round-up of some of the most common issues and care elements with the Boxer breed. This will be the age when Boxer newborn is fully weaned and ready to go to his new home. His world expands at this time. Some have a difficult adjustment leaving littermates and dam and transitioning to their new family. A planned introduction to the home will set a good foundation for introduction to other situations. Housebreaking should begin at this age. With an excellent plan and follow-through, expect it to take 4 to 6 weeks for your Boxer to be doing well in this regard. Command training simple commands can be worked in with housebreaking and other daily activities. For example a 2 month old Boxer puppy can learn to sit while his harness and leash is being put on and then learn that walking over to the designated chosen area equals a trip to the bathroom. Sleep may be erratic at this time and a Boxer puppy can sleep as little as 9 hours per day rare or up to 18 hours. Most will take quite a few naps during the day and then wake up 1 to 2 times per night. We've seen 2 month old little ones sleep right through the night, but it is rare - in these cases, the dog is able to enter deep REM sleep quickly and stay there, keeping the number of nap times to a minimum. This is the minimum age a dog must be in order to enter a dog show event. Many clubs, such as the AKC require a dog to be 6 months old; however if you truly want to show your Boxer, you may do so at 3 months with many other dog clubs. By this age, the pup has a good idea of his home environment and since the rounds of puppy shots are almost done, owners should plan on how they will proceed in regard to introduction to the world. To a dog, his world is as big as the owners choose. For some, it is just the neighborhood, for others it is the entire town! The reason that we say "plan" is because how a pup is introduced to other dogs, people and new environments affect how the dog reacts and responds. A planned transition to new elements is a huge part of Socialization Training. During this stage, some owners become a bit concerned if their Boxer is not barking ; however this is not a super vocal breed he makes lots of noises like groans and even some purrs, but doesn't typically bark at every little thing. A quiet puppy will often outgrown this and find their voice as they mature. It is at that time that a Boxer will bark when someone comes to the house, etc. By 1 year, if owners follow through, the Boxer is well trained, for both commands simple and complex and house training. Still, the dog has learned the basic workings of the world. He has been trained to know where his belongings are, who you consider to be friend or foe and is very used to his daily schedule. This is a great Boxer age, the dog looks young, still has the mentality of a puppy with playfulness, etc. You'll have a 40 to 55 pound 20 to 25 kg size puppy jumping on you and acting silly. Females will be on the lower end, males on the higher end. The body structure is slim, the chest is still relatively narrow. Over the course of this year, from the beginning of year 1 to the beginning of year 2, most will gain an additional 15 to 20 pounds 6. Height will increase. The most noticeable physical change will be the widening of the chest, a sure tell sign of a 2 year old adult. It is not uncommon for a Boxer dog to seem too skinny during a quick, temporary phase around this mark. Generally from 14 to 22 months old, a Boxer may have some visible ribs and appear too slim as he struggles to catch up to a quick growth spurt. For most, this is nothing to be concerned about. This is a huge milestone. At 2 years old, a Boxer is considered to be an adult. The dog will be at his adult weight and height. If you are offering commercial food, now is the time to switch to an adult formula. Temperament will gradually change. That playful puppy temperament will slowly turn more serious, but even older adults can have a sense of humor. That puppy that used to leap after butterflies in the field may change into the adult that stands proud and strong, scanning the yard for trespassers. The Boxer will now begin to age at a more steady rate. Still active, yet fully trained, this is a wonderful stage. By this age, status in the house if full established. Other family members may have come and gone kids off to college, a new roommate moves in, etc. However, if the dog was properly trained, he knew, throughout any changes, that his place was as Beta to his Alpha human leader. A Boxer dog is considered to be a senior at the age of 7 or 8 years old. Since there is no official age, it is the veterinarian who makes this declaration. Though, even if it has not been declared, with this breed typically living to a range of 9 to 12 years, 9 years is about as long as you can extend this before you dub your Boxer a senior. It is important to recognize this transition, so that geriatric care needs can be met. Regular visits will normally increase from 1 time per year to twice a year. Changes will happen once again to the diet, moving over to one that is a bit lower in fat, yet higher in fiber. This helps a less active dog maintain weight and fiber is one element that aids in digestion. A geriatric screening will check for kidney function. A Boxer dog with decreased kidney function should be fed a lower protein diet. The vitamin and mineral supplement will now switch to a senior formula as well. Don't let the senior age label fool you, Boxers at this age should still be taken for a daily walk for exercise , will enjoy outings to the beach, etc. One thing to keep in mind is that an older dog will sometimes have less tolerance for puppies and young children. It is a good idea to have a designated area for your senior Boxer to retreat to, should he desire.Older dogs still like to see the family and be aware of comings and goings, but will often want to retreat when youngsters or puppies are at play. Each dog has his own tolerance for the loud noises and commotion that accompanies younger humans and dogs. The average life span of a Boxer is years old. At this age, a senior dog most likely has lived through some health issues. A dog of this age will most likely have some arthritis. Movement may become difficult, it is suggested to have steps and ramps for the dog if he or she is used to climbing up onto your bed or the couch. The dog bed should be evaluated for comfort and support. An orthopedic bed is highly recommended. Any time after this age that your dog is still with you is a blessing. Some Boxers live late into their teens; however you should prepare yourself that your dog is nearing the end of his life cycle. Related: Oldest Boxer Dogs in the World - Though this breed generally lives 9 to 12 years, some Boxers have reached into their teens. You will notice that there is a range in both height and weight. Use the lighter weights for female Boxers and the heavier weights for male Boxers. This principle also applies to the variations in heights. Females tend to weigh less and be smaller in size than males. Between 6 — 12 months of age, Boxers are no longer considered puppies since they start to reach sexual maturity. Boxers are considered adolescents between 6 months to 24 months, and at 2 years old Boxers reach adulthood. They will continue to grow until they are 18 to 24 months old. How long does it take for a Boxer to be fully grown? As a medium-sized dog breed, Boxers need more time to reach their full size and weight than smaller dog breeds. On average, Boxers will grow until they are 18 to 24 months old. At 2 years old, Boxers are full-grown, reaching their full height and weight. As with all other dog breeds, some adult Boxers will be smaller than the breed standards. If your Boxer is less than two years old, he or she is likely still growing. Insider Tip: To estimate how big and heavy your Boxer will get, you can contact the breeder. Puppies rarely exceed their parents weight and height. Boxers above this average may be classed over-weight. Check with your vet to get an accurate diagnosis since more athletic dogs will have bigger muscles and will weigh more. It is important to recognize if your Boxer adds extra weight so that you can adjust his or her lifestyle. After, you just need to deduct your weight to find out how the weight of your Boxer. However, the bigger they get, the trickier it gets for them to stand still on such a small scale. Measure at the withers shoulder whilst standing. Try it out below:.

Chihuahua Pug Mix Origins The Chihuahua Chihuahuas are one of the smallest dog breeds in the world, and they are also one of the most popular. These pint-sized pups originated in Mexico, and they get their name from the Mexican state of Chihuahua. Chihuahuas are known for their big personalities, and they are also very loyal companions. In addition to being great pets, Chihuahuas also make excellent watchdog. They are always alert and ready to protect their families. The Pug Pugs were brought from China to Holland in the 16th century. Some think the phrase "multum in parvo" was created because of the pug's small size and big personality. In , pugs were brought to England and became very popular there. Pugs were a symbol of royalty and were kept as indoor dogs. The Chug The Chug was first developed in the United States during the early s as a result of selectively bred hybrids of the two floppy-eared breeds. While there's no specific breeder associated with creating the hybrid, it's believe that it was created in order to help improve the less-than-stellar breathing problems associated with the Pug. The Chug is not recognized by the A. C Chug Appearance The Chihuahua and the Pug are different in many ways, but their are both classified as toy breeds. The Chihuahua Pug mix is a small dog that is generally sturdy and very muscular. Chihuahua Pugs mix' face is round, featuring brown colored almond-shaped eyes. The Chihuahua Pug mix' nose is rather short and darder in color, just like what a miniature boxer would look like. Their head is big in comparison to their body. They have erect ears which can be either floppy or pointy. The Chihuahua Pug mix' neck is thick, and their chest is broad. Its tail can be either long or short, and it usually curls over their back. The Chihuahua Pug Mix typically weighs between 10 and 20 pounds and stands 10 to 15 inches tall at the shoulder. Pug Chihuahua mixes can be black, white, fawn, brown and cream. There are many different coat patterns for Pug Chihuahua mixes including, solid colors or sometimes a blend of different colors. Chug Temperament If you're looking for a dog who is equal parts adorable and annoying, the Chihuahua Pug mix is the perfect breed for you! Combining the best and worst attributes of the Pug and the Chihuahua, the Chug is a small dog with a big personality. Like both of its parent breeds, the Chihuahua Pug mix is prone to barking and is very alert, making it an excellent watch dog. However, this also means that your Chihuahua Pug mix will bark at any time, whether someone is actually at the door or not. In addition, Chugs are notoriously clingy and crave attention, which can be frustrating for owners who prefer a calmer pet. But despite their occasional yapping and neediness, Chugs are intelligent, affectionate dogs who make loyal companions. A post shared by Dexter and the Divas dexterandthedivas Chug and other pets Chihuahua Pug mixes generally get along well with other dogs and animals, although they may be a bit possessive of their toys and food. As long as you introduce your Chihuahua Pug mix to other pets at a young age, there should be no problem in having a multi-pet household. Just be sure to keep an eye on your Pug Chihuahua mix around larger animals, as their small size makes them more susceptible to injury. Regardless of their hair lenght, they do shed. They will likely shed as much as their Pug parent, which has very dense fur. Chugs's coat can be single coated or double coated. If they have a second coat, they'll be shedding all year. Double coated Pug Chihuahua mixes shed more in the summer and winter. We recommend grooming your Pug Chihuahua mix twice a week during the spring and autumn seasons, as well as deshedding when needed. Their coats will generally be thinner in length. Chug Health Chihuahua Pug Mixes typically have a lifespan of between 10 and 13 years. While Chugs may inherit some of their physical and behavioral traits from their parent breeds, they also inherit the same health issues. Brachycephaly Unfortunately, the Chihuahua Pug mixes inherits many of the health problems of its parents, the Chihuahua and the Pug. One of the most common problems is brachycephaly, a condition that results in a short, flat skull. This can cause a host of issues, including difficulty breathing, eye problems, and neurological issues. Heat sensitivity The Chihuahua Pug Mix is a brachycephalic breed of dog, meaning it has a shortened snout. This can cause a number of respiratory issues, including difficulty breathing in cold temperatures and extreme heat. As a result, Pug Chihuahua mixes are best suited for homes in moderate climates. However, if you live in an area with extreme temperatures, there are a few things you can do to help your Chihuahua Pug mix stay comfortable. In the winter, invest in a high-quality coat or sweater to help your Chug dog retain body heat. And in the summer, make sure to provide plenty of cool, fresh water and avoid strenuous activity during the hottest hours of the day. How to find a Chug Puppy? You can get a Pug Chihuahua Mix through a breeder or a rescue. Breeder Chugs, also known as designer breeds, may be bred for specific colors or qualities due to the absence of a breed standard. When searching for a Chug, it's important to be cautious of profit-driven breeders or unsanitary conditions. A responsible breeder will allow you to see the parents of the dog and selectively breed to avoid passing on health issues to the offspring. Rescue Looking for a Pug Chihuahua mix can be tough since they're not common. But you can try looking at Chihuahua rescues or search specifically for this mix. These rescues may provide care and help for deer head Chihuahua owners. It's not guaranteed, but it's worth a shot! With some luck and effort, you might find the right rescue organization to bring your furry friend home. Although a playful pup sounds endearing, consider how many games of fetch or tag you want to play each day, and whether you have kids or other dogs who can stand in as playmates for the dog. Click here for more information on this characteristic Chug Highlights Chugs can be prone to excessive weight gain if overfed. Make sure to stick to an appropriate diet and feeding schedule. With early training, you can curb unwanted barking, however. Most owners say their Chugs have goofball personalities and like to act silly. A Chug will be great at making you smile. As a mostly brachycephalic short-snouted dog, Chugs can be prone to heat stroke. Take extra care of them in hot weather. Chugs also have shorter fur, so they may need the added protection of a jacket in cold weather. The main colors of Chugs are brown, black, fawn, cream, and white. Their coats can be solid colors or a mix of colors. Chug History The Chug dog breed may have existed naturally over the years, but designer breeders started intentionally mixing Chihuahuas and Pugs in the early s , likely in the United States. Although there is no specific breeder created with the creation of the Chug, like other mixed breeds, it can be assumed that the Chihuahua and Pug were crossbred in hopes of attaining the positive attributes of each breed. Even though the Chug breed got its start as a designer breed, some have ended up in shelters or in the care of rescue groups. Consider adoption if you decide this is the breed for you. Check your local shelters, look up Chug rescues, or check with breed-specific Pug or Chihuahua rescues, as they sometimes take in mixed breed dogs and find homes for them. Chug Size As the Chug is a relatively new breed, there are few standards when it comes to size. That said, as a mix between Chihuahua and Pug parents, you can expect Chugs to be on the small side. Most Chugs weigh in around ten to 20 pounds, and they can be between ten to 14 inches tall. Chug Personality The Chihuahua is known for its feisty but loyal attitude. The Pug is known for being a goofy and playful pup. Some people report that their Chugs are extra cuddly and playful, while others say their Chug has a comedic Napoleon Complex and can sometimes get territorial. With proper training, your Chug can learn how to curb their yappy tendencies. Like their Chihuahua parent, the Chug can sometimes get attached to one particular human member of the family. They may become territorial and guard this person if they feel threatened. Fortunately, there are ways to curb resource guarding and this type of behavior in general. Chugs can also be incredibly silly dogs. Many Chug owners refer to their pups as goofballs who love to play, run around, and get lots of cuddles. Chug Health The Chug breed is predisposed to some of the same conditions that the Chihuahua and Pug also face. While most are generally healthy, some may be prone to a few health issues, which is why it is important to maintain good care and regular veterinary checkups. Your vet can help you develop a care routine that will keep your dog healthy. Chugs are prone to weight gain , and they have high energy levels. Make sure your dog gets at least one good half-hour- to hour-long walk per day with a few good, active play sessions and shorter walks mixed in. Check their ears for debris and pests daily and clean them as recommended by your vet. They should not be clicking against the floor. Your groomer can help with this. You should brush their teeth daily, as small breeds—especially the Pug and the Chihuahua—are prone to dental issues. Chug Feeding An ideal Chug diet should be formulated for a small breed with high energy. Like their parents, a Chug can be prone to excessive weight gain if overfed. Stick to a regular feeding schedule and do not leave food out during the day. Limit their amount of treats, as well. Sometimes their coats are solid, and sometimes they have a mix of colors. Their coats can be short and coarse, like short-haired Chihuahua and Pugs, or it can be softer, like long-haired Chihuahuas. Chugs are not recommended for those who suffer from dog allergies. Regular weekly brushing and grooming can help keep shedding to a minimum. No matter the type of coat, Chugs are not made for extreme weather. If you live in a colder area, they will need coats or sweaters when going outside. Likewise, they should not be kept outside in extreme heat, especially if they have a short snout. Chugs prefer to be mostly around adults or older kids who know how to play gently. That said, for children who learn early how to properly approach and play with a small dog, the Chug can make a great, active companion. When it comes to other pets, Chugs can get along with other animals if they are introduced slowly and calmly, and early socialization will help this go smoothly. That said, Chugs, like their Chihuahua parent, might not be naturally fond of other animals and may prefer to be the sole animal of the house. Chug Rescue Groups It may be hard to find a breed-specific rescue for Chugs because they are a mixed breed. However, you may want to try Chihuahua or Pug breed-specific rescues, as they often care for mixes, as well. Here are some rescues you can try:. Sadly, the Chug has a few medical issues to keep in mind, so the cost of vet visits and dental care might be higher than average. How much is a Chug puppy? There is a lot of demand for Chihuahua mixes which drives up the price of Chug puppies. However, many families get Chugs and quickly realize they are not good for small children, so keep your eyes open for Chugs to adopt. Pretty cheap! Medical Expenses for a Chug can average per year. Insurance: We recommend every dog have health insurance. If you find you can not afford pet health insurance, please try to get your Chug puppy insured for the first year or two. We recommend TruPanion, because they are easy to communicate with. However the only thing a short haired chug will need is a few baths and having their nails clipped. Check out our pug grooming guide for DIY at home tips! There are usually only puppies in a Chug litter, and the puppies are known for playfulness, jealousy, and being extremely attached to a single owner. Pug Chihuahua Mix puppies will grow extremely loyal and bond with their owner very quickly. They are fairly smart but have a stubborn streak and will figure out a way to get what they want. Please visit the breeder and poke around first! Find a responsible breeder. A good Chug breeder will have a spacious clean home. They should be transparent and open. Good Pug Mix breeders will want to meet you in person. They will also specialize in only one or two mix breeds. FaceTime is usually a good way to check the Chug puppies living conditions if they are far away. Tracheal Collapse - please make sure they are wearing a harness and not a dog collar! Brachycephalic syndrome - trouble breathing. They are known for having a big personality in a small package. These little dogs can also be surprisingly energetic and have been known to compete in agility competitions. The Chihuahua is a people dog and bonds closely to its owner. They are also known for being a little nervous and snippy with strangers. Patellar luxation Portosystemic shunt PSS The Pug is also brachycephalic, a condition that gives it a flat face and makes it vulnerable to breathing issues, the problem with regulating body temperature through panting, and reverse sneezing. The Chihuahua side of your hybrid puppy is also rife with medical problems, like hydrocephalus. Pugs have a tendency to overeat and giving them chow that is rich in fiber may be the best solution to make them eat less and let them think they are eating more! Unlike best dry dog food , these worst dry dog food brands are not likely to give you pooch anything except a few extra pounds! Puppies, adults, and seniors all have different dietary needs. Explore the importance of age-appropriate nutrition by browsing these handy best puppy food brands and best senior dry dog food guides to make sure the pup is getting all the nutrients they need. The Chihuahua Pug mix should be given a diet created specifically for small breeds such as best dry dog food for small dogs. The size of your furball does matter when it comes to food and, by opting for best large breed dry dog food for a tiny pooch, you risk giving them an inadequate amount of nutrients. High-energy meals with meat as the main ingredient are best. A cup of the premiere, dry dog food is ideal. Imbalance of protein and fat, as well as vitamins and minerals, can in the long run trigger all sorts of health conditions. Here are some of the best brands out in the market today: Wellness Core Dog Food : This premier dog food has a remarkably high protein content that comes from deboned chicken. This dry dog food has been designed by holistic veterinarians and nutritionists who wanted to create the best mean for small breeds. Dog For Dog Food : This dog food for small dogs is also great for puppies. The kibble is a mix of soft and crunchy pieces that even the pickiest eater will enjoy. Daily exercise lasting for 30 to 45 minutes is enough to keep your dog healthy. So is a weekly walk of five to six miles since this little dog gets tired easily. The brachycephalic genes it inherited from the Pug also makes it vulnerable to breathing issues due to strenuous activities. You should also play with your dog for at least half an hour, one to three times a day. Here are some of the best toys for this breed out in the market today: Air Kong Squeaky X-Small Tennis Balls: These bright balls are durable and perfectly fits even the small mouth of a Pug Chihuahua cross. Made from corduroy fabric with a little squeaker inside, its size is ideal for Chug puppies. Mini Sqwuggie Dog Toy: The best tug toy for toy breeds, the Sqwuggie is colorful, durable, and can even float in water, allowing your pet to play with it anywhere. Chihuahua Pug Training A lot of small dog owners tend to forego training and socializing their pet. Owners tend to dismiss them as a threat due to their size and lets them exhibit dominant behavior. With a Chihuahua Pug already prone to aggressive tendencies, thanks to its Chihuahua side, owners should take steps to ensure their hybrid pet does not become some diva. In short, behavior that is not acceptable from adult large dogs should not be tolerated in small dogs either. It will do well with someone who can provide a Your Pug Chihuahua mix should undergo obedience training and socialization while its still a puppy. Owners should also continue with the training and socialization programs even when their dog becomes an adult to prevent the development of the syndrome. Thanks to their propensity to please their owners, Chugs are easy to train. Here are some interesting tips to consider when training a small dog like the Chug: Think and stay positive. Always remember that small breeds tend to get scared or startled easily. Give your dog small treats and give belly rubs and praise freely. Keep it short and sweet. Stay low. Looming over your small dog while you shout commands will just frighten it. It will make you less intimidating and make your dog feel more comfortable and secure. Once your dog has learned some commands and tricks, you can stand and begin training from a higher level. Stand your ground. Small dogs get away with a lot of things because of their size. Stand your ground and stay true to the training. Housetraining small dogs is different. Crate training is one of the best ways to housetrain your puppy. It loves its human and will try its best to please its owner. However, you should be ready to provide your pet with lots of love and attention. Children should also be taught how to handle this dog properly. This means families with very young children might not be a good match for this dog. A Chihuahua Pug cross is an ideal pet for apartment dwellers, although it will thrive in all types of homes. It has to live indoors as its small stature means it can easily wiggle out of a fence. This dog also prefers warm weather, which is why it loves to snuggle so much. As the popularity of mix-breed dogs increases, so does the potential for puppy mills and backyard breeders. You can find a good breeder by asking for referrals from pet care professionals, such as vets or trainers, friends or family members, or by attending a local dog show in your area. Be Sure to Bundle Up! Since they are short-haired dogs, Chugs do not like cold, wintery weather and love being dressed in a coat or sweater for wintertime walks. Small but Mighty Your Chug could come with a muscular face that strongly resembles that of a Boxer. They were actually named after the Pugyal Kingdom. He can be a sweet comedian, like the Pug, or a little imperious, like the Chihuahua. Your Chug will most likely be feisty yet loyal. As with Chihuahuas, the Chug can sometimes become fiercely attached to one particular member of the household and even become territorial over that person. Fortunately, the right training techniques will curb this unwanted behavior. Are These Dogs Good for Families? Chugs thrive with couples and active families with older children. If you have tiny tots running around your house, you may want to consider getting a different breed. The Chihuahua side can sometimes get snippy around young kids. Take him to the dog park or walks throughout your neighborhood to get him acclimated to other dogs and people. When properly socialized, Chugs can make fantastic housemates to the other four-legged members of your family. So, try not to overdo it on the treats, even when he is tempting you with his adorable, wrinkled face. Also, keep his daily caloric consumption to under every day. This roughly equates to one cup of dry, high-quality kibble per day. Excess weight can exacerbate some health issues, including joint problems and breathing difficulties. Luckily, they can burn it off very quickly and tire themselves out within 45 minutes. Ideally, your Chug should be enjoying a minute walk followed by 15 minutes of playtime every day. Due to their short snout, you should never overexert your Chug because he may have trouble breathing. But, thanks to their Chihuahua parent breed, they can also be extremely stubborn. You will need to be patient and consistent when training your Chug, and always use positive reinforcement as your training method. Punishment methods have been known to promote anxiety and problematic behaviors in Chugs. Yapping is a common issue in Chugs. Instead of using punishment, give them a tasty treat when they stop barking or when they do not yap in a situation in which they normally would. However, brush him once a week to remove dander and dead fur. Be sure to also gently clean their adorable face wrinkles daily with a baby wipe or damp cloth. Minor Conditions Like cherry eye or cataracts Obesity.

For example, the characteristics of the parent breeds shine through in my bestie — Happy-Go-Doodle Chloe. She is an F1B Goldendoodle who: Is extremely smart. Was easily trained as a puppy and is still easily trained as an adult. Is very active and requires daily walks and games of fetch. Is an incredibly devoted family dog. In addition to personality, you may be wondering about the physical characteristics of F1B Goldendoodles. The reason for such a range of sizes can largely be attributed to the variation the Poodle parent breed brings to the party. Since the Poodle breed standard includes three official sizes—toy, miniature, and standard—the Goldendoodle gets the benefit of a wide variation in size too. They weigh about 25 pounds. They weigh 26 to 35 pounds. They weigh 36 to 50 pounds. They weigh 51 pounds and up. F1B Goldendoodles will require regular brushing and grooming. F1B Goldendoodle coat colors Based on the variety of coat colors of the Poodle black, white, cream, apricot, to name a few and the range of shades of golden the Golden Retriever heritage brings to the mix golden, light golden, and dark golden , the F1B Goldendoodle can sport a rainbow of colors. They require energy burns and mental stimulation. This makes sense since both of the parent breeds are smart and active. They need attention and like to be part of the pack. Goldendoodles are eager to fit in with the entire family and adapt to life with you. They are often recommended for families and make wonderful companions. However, they are not some sort of wonder dog, either. Also, Goldendoodles are social dogs and may show anxiety or boredom if left alone for long periods of time. As puppies, they may be pushy or mouthy want to chew on everything or zoomy. However, with proper care, socialization, love, attention, training, and exercise, an F1B Goldendoodle is more love than you could ever imagine. That why, you could also say F1B stands for… 1 Forever Bestie…for ever and always by your side. Did you enjoy this article? Join the happy pack! Get the latest Happy-Go-Doodle stories delivered to your email inbox. Please comment below. It has been updated to include more information on the F1B Goldendoodle along with additional pictures. Conclusion What is an F1b Goldendoodle? Looking at Goldendoodle puppies can be a little confusing when there are a whole bunch of different letters before their breed. This Chocolate F1b Goldendoodle has a clear Poodle muzzle shape The F is a genetic term that stands for filial which in biology means the offspring of a cross-breeding. They use the term for both plants and animals when trying to make a new hybrid. In this case, F1 would be a breeding between a Golden Retriever and a Poodle. F2 would be a breeding between two crossbreeds so both parents would be Goldendoodles. The b in an F1b Goldendoodle stands for backcross. This means that one of the parents is an F1 Goldendoodle while the other is either a purebred Poodle or Golden Retriever. Most breeders breeding F1b Goldendoodles will choose the F1b breeding with the Poodle being the largest genetic influence because of the desired non-shedding coat properties. F1b Goldendoodle Size Expectation Generally, any crossbreed of a Poodle comes in different sizes because Poodles themselves come in different sizes. There are three sizes of Poodle: Toy, Miniature, and Standard. The Goldendoodle is generally bred from either the Miniature or Standard Poodle just because the Toy Poodle is much smaller than a Retriever. Goldendoodle puppy standing in the grass. The size range is still quite wide depending on each individual breeding. They may grow to be as little as 15 inches tall or as large as 25 inches tall. Health of Your F1b Goldendoodle When it comes to crossbreeds, you will usually find yourself with a healthier dog than if you buy a purebred dog. All breeds of dogs tend to be more inclined toward certain health issues. When you take a breeding pool of animals and reduce it down to breed certain traits to get different breeds of dogs, we are making them look similar but also as a side effect breeding some common health issues into them. Goldendoodle puppy is not feeling well. When you get your Goldendoodle puppy , you should only buy from a breeder who has done the right genetic and health tests on their breeding dogs. While your wallet may be a bit lighter from visiting a good breeder initially, it will save you lots of vet visits in the long run by making sure your puppy is from a reputable breeder. F1b Goldendoodle Temperament Goldendoodles take the best parts of two hugely popular breeds and create a cute, hypoallergenic , and super trainable family pet. While they are active and energetic, they have the soft characteristics of Golden Retrievers which make excellent family pets with the quick learning of the Poodle. Teacup Labradoodles are a miniature size petite dog. They can be easily carried around even as full grown Teacup Goldendoodles. To make sure your Doodle can take everything in their stride, introduce them to lots of new experiences early on. Exercise and Training Needs Retrievers and Poodles are both highly active breeds and can easily walk upwards of two hours a day. Both are highly trainable but the Poodle tends to have an independent streak. The more Poodle content they have in them, the more drive they have and usually the more complex tricks they can do. Early training on your Doodle is super important when they have the intelligence and independence of a Poodle. Creating a good working relationship between yourself and your puppy will help build the foundations for a long and happy relationship. Ways to Keep a Big Brain Busy With genetics that make them super bright dogs, sometimes it can be difficult to find the off switch for your Goldendoodle. Training is a great way to tire them out and keep them busy because it makes them use their brain. Food is a great way to keep dogs entertained, be that with a long-lasting chew like a bone or antler or even some enrichment games. When dogs have to work for their food it tires them out a lot more than just eating from the bowl. Many owners have scrapped using bowls altogether and instead find fun ways to feed their dogs every day and make them work for it a little more. Intelligent dogs like Doodles really enjoy the extra enrichment it offers them. You can try things as simple as throwing their food all over the lawn or you can even get crafting and make your own snuffle mat out of rubber matting and old blankets! A snuffle mat, similar to grass, creates an uneven texture for you to hide food in and get their noses working during meal time. Every dog is an individual including puppies from the same litter but understanding their lineage may give you some clues as to what to expect from your new addition. My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More. No one really knows exactly when the first goldendoodle was created, but this mixed breed began finding popularity among breeders in the late s. It is believed that the success of the labradoodle led to the conception of the goldendoodle. F1Bs are created by crossing a first-generation F1 goldendoodle with a purebred poodle or golden retriever. Usually, breeders choose the poodle as the purebred parent in order to achieve a coat that is less irritating for people with allergies. F1B goldendoodles usually have a curly coat that is more reminiscent of the poodle than the golden retriever. The color of the coat may take after the golden retriever in hue, but doodles can come in many different colors. These dogs have floppy ears and may have either curly hair or long straight hair on their muzzles. They come in a variety of sizes, too! The poodle itself comes in three sizes: standard, miniature, and toy. There is even such a thing as a teacup poodle, which is the smallest of the four sizes, though the AKC does not recognize this size. Because the goldendoodle is not purebred, there is no uniform size that these dogs are expected to be. There are no guidelines. However, you can find goldendoodles in all size categories except for giant simply because purebred poodles exist in each size category. So, if you want a smaller dog, look for smaller parents and vice versa! Wavy and curly coats tend to be more common, but anything is possible as this is a mixed breed. F1B goldendoodles make wonderful family dogs as they are super friendly and do well with children. They are affectionate and enjoy spending time with their families. They definitely have what is often considered the ideal temperament for a dog! Are F1B Goldendoodles Affectionate? F1B goldendoodles are generally a great choice for families with kids. They also tend to be gentle and tolerant. This is because these types of pets are seen as prey animals. The goldendoodle is bred from two hunting breeds. If you do have small pets, make sure to keep them safe from your dog. Are F1B Goldendoodles Aggressive? F1B Goldendoodles are not at all aggressive! They love meeting new people and are great with other dogs. Of course, every dog is an individual, and socialization during puppyhood is vital. Dogs that do not receive proper socialization are far more likely to become fearful or aggressive as adults. We would consider them the type of dog that barks to alert their owners. As we said before, every dog is an individual, and some dogs may bark more than others. Some doodles may only bark at strangers, whereas others may bark at animals in the yard or cars on the street. Are F1B Goldendoodles Intelligent? F1B goldendoodles are considered an intelligent mixed breed because they are quick learners and have superb observation skills. In fact, they are so good at observing that many people believe they can even tell what emotions their owners are feeling! If you want a dog that is easy to train, you should definitely consider the F1B goldendoodle. This breed learns quickly and is eager to please. Their affection and loyalty often result in them being quite obedient once trained. Because they are so easy to train, hiring a professional is not necessary. However, we always recommend that people join a group class of some sort as it provides opportunities for their dogs to learn how to ignore distractions and listen instead. Though doodles are already eager to please, using reward-based training will motivate them even more. Using positive reinforcement is the best way to train a goldendoodle. Are F1B Goldendoodles Energetic? F1B goldendoodles of any size have a fair amount of energy. After all, they are born of two hunting breeds that need to have the endurance to spend hours in the field. Luckily, many goldendoodles enjoy playing games like fetch. Fetch is a fantastic way to help your dog burn off some energy. Of course, doodles will also love joining you in activities like walking, hiking, swimming, or even biking make sure to talk to your vet before involving your dog in any strenuous activities. They may try to get your attention and get you to play with them, bark more often, or turn to take their boredom out on something else. Regardless of size, goldendoodles can do well in apartments as long as they get enough exercise. Apartment living may be easier with smaller goldendoodles than with larger ones. If that can be done, then goldendoodles can live anywhere. Many goldendoodles will bark to alert you of the presence of a stranger in the vicinity, which can make them good watchdogs. This is because the goldendoodle is just far too friendly. They will be more likely to greet intruders with wagging tails than anything else. F1B goldendoodles do make good service dogs. This is in part because of their eagerness to learn. Service dogs must be smart and obedient, and goldendoodles are prone to being both. They have an easy time providing the support someone needs because of their stellar observation skills. How to Care for an F1B Goldendoodle F1B doodles will need at least weekly brushing, and most owners prefer to keep their coats trimmed. Otherwise, they require the same type of care as other dogs: they need their teeth cleaned regularly, nails clipped as needed, and ears checked for infection regularly. Like all goldendoodles, F1Bs also require a decent amount of grooming. Their coats need to be brushed at least once per week, but more frequent brushing is required for longer coats. Most doodle owners prefer to have their coats trimmed regularly so that they do not need to brush them as often. If you like the look of a grown-out coat, then you will need to brush almost daily to prevent the hair from clumping and matting. Do F1B Goldendoodles Shed? How much a doodle sheds really depends on which breed it takes after more: the poodle or the golden retriever. If the F1B has a purebred golden retriever crossed with an F1 doodle as a parent, then you may expect it to shed more. The doodle would not shed very much in this case and may be a good option for someone with allergies who hopes to own a dog. Do remember, however, that no dog is truly hypoallergenic. An F1B goldendoodle should eat the highest quality food you can afford. The best dog foods follow AAFCO guidelines, have been formulated by a veterinary nutritionist, and have undergone feeding trials. To determine how much to feed your doodle, you can start by checking the recommended serving size on the bag. Otherwise, you can calculate the number of calories your dog should eat on a daily basis. You can do the math yourself or use an online calorie calculator. Because F1B goldendoodles inherit genes from both golden retrievers and poodles, they are at risk of inheriting the diseases of both breeds. Doodles who are similar in size to a standard poodle or golden retriever are also at risk for bloat. Smaller doodles may be at risk of inheriting patellar luxation and Legg-Calve-Perthes. Because we have to consider the health issues of two breeds instead of one, it may seem like the F1B goldendoodle is at a higher risk of inheriting problems than its purebred parent. There are some studies that suggest purebred dogs are more likely to inherit 10 out of 24 diseases, with mixed breeds only being more likely to inherit 1 out of the 24 the other 13 diseases were just as likely to be inherited by mixed breeds as purebreds. However, you could sink hours into this debate and still feel unsure about which side is right. Instead of getting caught up in debate, we suggest that if you want to add an F1B goldendoodle to your family, you should choose a responsible breeder who health tests their dogs. These tests ensure that the parent dogs are without disease that they could pass on to their offspring. F1B goldendoodles live about 10 to 15 years on average, though smaller doodles may live a year or two longer. Are F1B Goldendoodles Expensive? Be cautious if you see a doodle being sold for a low price. These dogs may have been bred by puppy mills or backyard breeders who simply want to turn a profit but do not care for the health of their dogs. Always make sure to ask breeders numerous questions so that you know they have health-tested their dogs and are caring for them properly. However, how frequently you want to do this is up to you. Some people have their doodles groomed every 8 to 10 weeks, whereas others may prefer more frequent grooming. If you wanted to save money, you could learn how to trim your doodle yourself. Similarly, smaller dogs may be less expensive when it comes to their kibble and even medical expenses. Therefore, if you want a more budget-friendly doodle, consider a smaller size. We know you already know how to use Google to search for puppies. What are your credentials? You should learn about how long the breeder has been in business as well as how familiar they are with F1B goldendoodles. Have the parent animals undergone health testing? Ask to see these tests. Can I see where the dogs are kept? Can I meet the parent? How do you socialize your puppies? Socialization is important for puppies to become friendly and confident. Are the puppies up-to-date on vaccinations? Do you offer a health guarantee with a contract? Some breeders guarantee the health of their puppies: should your puppy come down with a serious illness early on, the breeder may offer to reimburse the purchase price of the dog or even take the puppy back. This will also help you avoid purchasing from breeders who are irresponsible. What do you require of potential adopters? Many breeders want to make sure their puppies are going to homes where they will be treated well and kept for life. Therefore, breeders may ask a number of questions about you, your situation, and your experience as a dog owner. It will not be easy to find an F1B goldendoodle to rescue. While the goldendoodle mix itself is popular enough to have rescues dedicated to it, the F1B is an even more specific mix of golden retriever and poodle. This is why they are harder to find at shelters. Even if it is clear that the dog is a doodle, the shelter may not know if the doodle is F1, F1B, or some other generation of doodle. Still, if you are interested in adopting, the best place to look will be a rescue dedicated to saving and rehoming goldendoodles specifically. Are F1B Goldendoodles Purebred? F1B goldendoodles are not purebred dogs. Goldendoodles in general are considered designer dogs because they are a mix created by crossing two purebred dogs. However, the F1B goldendoodle is a cross between a doodle and usually a purebred poodle though in rare cases, the purebred parent is a golden retriever. Either way, the AKC does not recognize these dogs, and there is currently no standard for breeding them. Because F1B goldendoodles are so friendly, loving, and obedient, they tend to be a great option for first-time dog owners. However, as long as someone can offer enough exercise, they should have no problem raising and caring for an F1B goldendoodle. Goldendoodles are playful, energetic, and super friendly. This makes them great family dogs who get along swimmingly with kids. By now, you probably have an idea of whether or not the F1B doodle is the right dog for you or not. Millie is pounds an inches at the withers, Jax is pounds and inches at the withers. The offspring are expected to be 20 to mini pounds. The puppies will go home October 7th. Females Males 1 Francis, GH purple 1 Open 2 reserved for GH 2 Open We take a processing fee of now by PayPal, zelle, venmo, cash, credit card or personal checks to secure your pick position, which comes off the total when you pay your balance at puppy pick up. Puppy selection and go home is hosted on the same day. The processing fee is refundable until puppy births or you are not provided a puppy from your designated litter due to our part. Otherwise the processing fee becomes transferable to a future litter of your choosing. Paymet for balance at time of pick up is accepted by cash, venmo, PayPal, zelle and all major credit cards only, no personal checks accepted at final payment. Puppies go home at 8 weeks on utd on age appropriate shots, dewormer, veterinarian checked, micro chipped, potty training to a doggy door beginning at 4 weeks of age, puppy food Purina Pro Plan lamb and rice formula small bites , blanket with litter scent, snuggle puppy, benebone puppy chew toy, tick flea and heartworm preventative for the first month and intestinal parasites preventative for the first three months, completely loved and pre spoiled with a 1 year health guarentee. We offer a discount for puppy training through Baxter and Bella and 1st month free for puppy insurance through Trupanion. Our puppies are raised by the puppy culture protocols. We do a weekly updates with photos, weights and progress reports. Each puppy is cleared by our veterinarian prior to leaving Texas Doodles. Puppy selection process is hosted at our home in Kountze Texas in person or via FaceTime if distance is an issue. Puppies are picked up in person at our residence unless prior arrangements have been made. We offer puppy ground transport through reliable carriers, meet at Houston area airports, fly in cabin with Southwest Airlines or American Airlines via cargo. We can quote rates for all options. We use Embark and OFA when health testing our parents. This is a pet price only with no breeding rights. Breeding rights are considered after an approval process.

Degenerative Myelopathy Degenerative myelopathy is a disease that can impact the spinal cord of a German Shepherd. The initial signs of the disease are similar to canine arthritis or hip dysplasia, so it is often written off as a joint disease at first. However, the disease will eventually progress to knuckling of the back legs, severe lameness, and complete paralysis of the hind end. There is no treatment available for dogs with degenerative myelopathy, but strengthening the muscles in the hind legs is proven to slow the progression of the disease over time. This is why it is so important to keep your pup active over the years. Maintain A Healthy Weight Keeping your German Shepherd at a healthy weight is likely the most effective way to promote strength in their back legs. The extra pressure can lead to significant joint deterioration over time, especially if they are already experiencing the effects of arthritis or hip dysplasia. Obesity can even exacerbate these issues in dogs that may not have developed joint disease otherwise. When their joints are healthy, their back legs will naturally be stronger and more agile. The better your dog feels each day due to optimal nutrition, the easier it is for them to remain active. Keep Them Active Keeping your dog active is a wonderful way to help them build strength in their back end. Not only is a regular fitness routine essential in maintaining joint and muscle strength, but certain activities are known to improve back leg strength itself. Start Joint Supplements At 1 Year Due to how prone German Shepherds are to painful joint conditions such as arthritis and hip dysplasia, starting joint supplements at 1 year of age can be extremely beneficial. Joint supplements are often most effective when they are used as a preventative measure rather than after joint disease has already developed, as they can help to promote joint strength as the years go by. One of the many symptoms of joint disease is weakness in the hind limbs, so preventing these conditions can ultimately promote back leg strength in the future. Joint disease can lead to significant deterioration of the joints when it is left untreated, so you will want to start a joint management plan from the moment they develop symptoms. By monitoring your German Shepherd for any signs of discomfort, you can establish a joint care plan early in the disease process. By doing so, you can hopefully prevent so much joint damage from coming. Popular Articles:. Why does a German Shepherd drag his back legs? The condition is quote common among this breed of dog. One of the first warning signs is a German Shepherd that stands with his back paws together. This explains exactly why the German Shepherd I recently witnessed was struggling to get up. Although his paws were not dragging, he was dragging and still probably in the very early stages of DM. Dogs with DM may exhibit symptoms such as limping, dragging, and a loss of control in their back legs. Understanding these challenges can help owners provide appropriate care and support for their beloved German Shepherds. Challenges 1. Limping and Dragging Back Leg: One of the primary challenges seen in German Shepherds with degenerative myelopathy is a noticeable limp in the back leg. As the disease progresses, the affected leg may drag while walking, causing difficulty in maintaining a normal gait. Loss of Mobility and Coordination: German Shepherds with degenerative myelopathy may experience a gradual loss of mobility and coordination in their back legs. This can make it challenging for them to stand, walk, or perform daily activities that were once effortless. Crossed Paws and Inability to Unlock Limbs: An observable behavior in German Shepherds with degenerative myelopathy is crossing their paws in the back when attempting to stand up. This occurs because they are unable to unlock their limbs properly, adding to the overall challenges they face. Development of Secondary Conditions: While degenerative myelopathy itself may not cause pain, it can lead to the development of secondary conditions such as arthritis. Arthritis can further contribute to discomfort, pain, and reduced mobility in the affected back leg of a German Shepherd. German Shepherds, being predisposed to degenerative myelopathy, are prone to experiencing various challenges related to their back legs. Owners may notice their German Shepherds limping or dragging one or both hind legs. This limping can be a clear indication of a problem in the affected leg, requiring attention and care. As degenerative myelopathy progresses, German Shepherds may suffer a loss of mobility and coordination in their back legs. Activities like walking, running, and climbing stairs may become increasingly difficult for them. In severe cases, complete paralysis of the back legs can occur. A distinctive behavior seen in German Shepherds with degenerative myelopathy is crossing their paws in the back when attempting to stand up. This is due to the impaired ability to unlock their limbs properly. The crossed paws further contribute to the challenges faced by these dogs, affecting their stability and balance. Additionally, the progression of degenerative myelopathy can lead to the development of secondary conditions, such as arthritis, in the affected back leg of a German Shepherd. Arthritis can cause pain, discomfort, and stiffness, exacerbating the challenges already posed by the degenerative myelopathy. Understanding and recognizing these challenges is crucial for owners of German Shepherds with back leg problems. Seeking veterinary care and guidance, providing appropriate pain management, and considering supportive devices like harnesses or carts can help alleviate some of the difficulties faced by these dogs. Ensuring a comfortable and fulfilling life for German Shepherds with back leg problems requires attentive care and a proactive approach to their overall well-being. Knuckling in German Shepherds can be caused due to a variety of different factors, such as genetics, injury, or a neurological disorder. This condition can occur in both puppies and adult German Shepherds, however it is more commonly seen in puppies. If a German Shepherd puppy is born with their back legs close together and their feet turning out, this can be an indication of a genetic predisposition to knuckling. Injuries can also cause knuckling, such as a trauma to the spinal cord or a severe strain on the leg muscles. Lastly, neurological disorders can also be the cause of knuckling in German Shepherds. The symptoms of German Shepherds that drag their hind legs include the dragging of the hind legs behind the body and difficulty walking or running. The feet of the German Shepherd may also turn outwards, and the back legs may be held close together. Additionally, the German Shepherd may show signs of discomfort and pain when walking. If the knuckling is due to an injury, then rest and rehabilitation can help to reduce the symptoms. For neurological disorders, medication and physical therapy may be needed in order to reduce the discomfort associated with knuckling. If the knuckling is due to genetics, then surgery may be an option to correct the physical deformity. In conclusion, German Shepherds that drag their hind legs can be caused by a variety of different factors. If you notice your German Shepherd dragging their hind legs, it is important to seek veterinary advice in order to determine the cause and appropriate treatment. With the correct diagnosis and treatment plan, knuckling can often be managed effectively. What is degenerative myelopathy? A disease found in dogs, especially German Shepherds, that is very similar to ALS or amyotrophic lateral sclerosis. Basically, there is a breakdown of Myelin a protective coat around the spinal cord. The prognosis for progression of degenerative myelopathy is approximately 6 months to 3 years, with no cure at this time. I have no doubt, being the owner of a dog who gets this diagnosis is undoubtedly heart-breaking. The disease will slowly or quickly progress. What causes degenerative myelopathy? At this time, the exact cause of degenerative myelopathy is not known. A gene mutation seems to be consistent in most cases, and tends to be specific to German Shepherds. Other breeds are effected too, including the Cardigan Welsh corgi and the Chesapeake Bay retriever. According to Dr. There are several stages of degenerative myelopathy. Signs and symptoms can cross over each other through the different stages, but this table can be used as a general guide. This is because German Shepherds are intentionally bred to have a steeper angulation to the hind legs. The AKC breed standards for the breed, require German Shepherds to have as close to a degree bend as possible in their hind legs. Unfortunately, this steep angle in the back leg makes German Shepherds more susceptible to back pain and hind leg problems. After years of wear and tear, this makes them prone to serious leg problems as they age. For instance, studies have shown that German Shepherds are five times more likely to develop dysplasia as compared to Labradors, Rottweilers, and Golden Retrievers. A brief overview of these medical conditions: Degenerative Myelopathy Degenerative myelopathy DM is a neurological disease that makes German Shepherds slowly lose control of their hind legs. In the end, the dog may lose control of the urinary and bowel functions, and paralysis is a serious possibility. DM typically occurs in older dogs of about eight years or older, although it may also occur at a younger age. Unfortunately, there is no cure for DM. However, there are ways to reduce the suffering of your GSD because the condition progresses gradually. Therefore, treatment options for DM are geared towards ensuring a better quality of life rather than curing it. Most dogs with degenerative myelopathy will lose the function of their hind legs within six months to two years of diagnosis. Although there is no cure, regular exercise has been shown to improve the quality of life for dogs with DM. As a result, the ball of the hip joint causes pain as it glides roughly against the socket. Signs of hip dysplasia include a wobbly gait, lameness, limping, a decreased range of motion, and pain while walking. The most common causes of hip dysplasia include genetics, leg trauma, and environmental factors. In extreme cases of hip dysplasia, the dog may lose the function of their back legs and require a wheelchair. Arthritis may also occur due to the pressure exerted on the hip joint by hip dysplasia. Since GSDs are prone to hind leg weakness, they are at an increased risk for severe arthritis. Dogs with bad hips and arthritic joints may change their gait and walk lower to the ground, causing German Shepherd legs to appear even more bent. Signs of arthritis in German Shepherds include lethargy, loss of muscle mass in the hind limbs, reluctance to run, jump, or go up a flight of stairs, and stiffness in the hind legs. Prevention of osteoarthritis through proper dieting, exercising, and joint supplements helps to reduce the onset of osteoarthritis. Once osteoarthritis begins, the treatment is geared towards pain reduction, reducing inflammation, and improving the quality of life. Since osteoarthritis is difficult to detect in symptoms until the affected joints are badly affected, it is crucial to keep up with regular wellness visits with your vet. The best way to prevent these diseases is through genetic testing and following good breeding standards. This is possible by checking with your breeder for the hip score regarding hip dysplasia and proper parent matching to avoid degenerative myelopathy. Diet It works wonders for humans, and it will work for your best friend too. Since this breed is already a large-sized breed and the effects of breeding may be unpredictable, maintaining an optimal weight and observing a healthy, balanced diet is a wise precautionary measure. Some of the important dietary options to provide include ample proteins, vitamin D, vitamin K and magnesium, vitamin C, and vitamin E. You should also ensure that the dog food you buy for your German Shepherd is well-suited, with enough calcium and phosphorus for healthy bone development. Your vet may also prescribe bone and joint supplements such as glucosamine, chondroitin, green-lipped mussels, and collagen if they are required. An obese or overweight will experience increased mobility challenges. Second, regular exercise, especially walking and swimming, is important. Lastly, consult your vet on supplements or medications that may slow down the progression of DM. In any case, for these medical conditions , keep an eye out for changes in movement and contact your vet if there are any concerns. Some common symptoms that your German Shepherd may show include a wobbly walk, slipping on the floor, sitting crooked, hips giving way, swelling, lesser muscle mass in the back legs, and having a shorter stride on the hind legs. Remember that most dogs will not express pain or discomfort at first, so it is up to you to spot the symptoms if they do appear — This is especially important for degenerative conditions because when it comes to treatment, the earlier, the better! Regular exercise Regular exercising does two important things for your German Shepherd. One, it strengthens the hind and front leg muscles, and two, it helps you spot changes in the performance of the hind legs. This is the sit-to-stand routine. In this routine, you start with your dog sitting in front of you. Then, you move back a bit and call the dog to you. When he follows, give a treat to keep his interest and, once again, sit him down. Repeat as many times as needed. Taking your dog on daily walks up and down a hill especially or having swimming sessions will also strengthen the leg muscles and help in managing the weight. Hydrotherapy is especially beneficial for dogs dealing with mobility issues. Canine massage relieves fatigue and tension in the hind leg muscles and helps to spot any unrelated pain that may be a sign of something to watch out for. How to massage your dog: Compress the muscle against the bone with your flat hand using both your palms and fingers. Glide your hand along his spine, following the lay of the fur. Apply semi-circular strokes on the muscular areas of the back legs. Using a support harness Sometimes, it is crucial to moderate the pressure that your shepherd applies to the back legs when he moves about. This is where the support harness comes in. A harness helps to remove some of the stress that the dog may be feeling when taking walks, for instance, until the muscles of the back legs are strong enough to take it. The use of the harness reduces the pressure placed on the bad back legs and makes it easier for your dog to walk. Keep them at a healthy weight and ensure they get plenty of exercise. Even if your GSD is battling a degenerative illness affecting his mobility, you can explore treatment and supportive methods that will enable a good quality of life. German shepherds are known as a very resilient and strong breed. Your dog will match and appreciate any effort you put into ensuring his good quality of life. Related Articles:. This will gradually build their hind leg muscles. This forces your dog to put more strain on their back legs, helping to build muscle, and uneven surfaces help improve balance and exercise different muscles. This helps exercise their core muscles as well as their hind legs. This exercise helps to build hind leg muscles. Hydrotherapy is highly effective in building back leg muscles, and classes and facilities are available that specialize in this type of therapy for dogs with mobility issues. Weight Management: Maintain a healthy weight to reduce stress on joints and prevent injury. This popular joint supplement is often given to large dogs like German Shepherds. Green-Lipped Mussel: When combined with glucosamine and chondroitin, the green-lipped mussel can help reduce pain and maintain joint function in dogs with mobility issues. This supplement supports overall joint health and can help your German Shepherd feel more comfortable moving around. Fish Oil: Fish oil contains omega-3 fatty acids, which can help reduce inflammation and improve joint health. Vitamin E: Vitamin E can help improve muscle strength and reduce muscle damage. Last fall, Jedi was in bad shape. The two-year-old German Shepherd's health had waxed and waned for months. His owners and local veterinarian saw that Jedi was in pain and suffering from hind limb ataxia, meaning he was losing balance and coordination in his back legs. Assistive Devices: Wheelchairs, mobility harnesses, and slings can provide support and improve mobility for German Shepherds with weak back legs. Recognizing Symptoms of Weak Hind Legs in German Shepherds German Shepherds are prone to hind leg weakness, which can be caused by various factors such as hip dysplasia, arthritis, and spinal cord issues. Limping Or Favoring One Leg: Your German Shepherd might limp or put more weight on one leg to compensate for the weakness in the other leg. Difficulty Standing Or Sitting: Struggling to stand up or sit down can indicate discomfort or weakness in the hind legs. Decreased Activity Levels: A decrease in interest in playing, going for walks, or heading outside may signify discomfort or weakness in the back legs. Swelling Or Pain In Joints: Swollen hips, stiffness in joints and legs, or signs of pain in the back legs can be indicators of an underlying issue affecting hind leg strength. Here are some common causes: 1. Arthritis: This degenerative joint disease can affect German Shepherds as they age. It can cause pain and stiffness in the hind legs, making it difficult for them to move around. This genetic condition can cause the hip joints to develop abnormally, leading to arthritis and hind leg weakness. It can be diagnosed through X-rays. Canine Degenerative Myelopathy: This progressive neurological disease affects the spinal cord and can cause hind leg weakness and paralysis. It is usually seen in older dogs. Diabetes: Diabetes can affect the nerves in the hind legs, leading to weakness and loss of coordination. Fibrocartilaginous Embolism: This spinal cord injury can occur when a piece of cartilage breaks off and blocks blood flow to the spinal cord. It can cause hind leg weakness and paralysis. Limited Mobility: Dogs that are overweight, have poor muscle tone, or have been inactive for an extended period of time may experience hind leg weakness due to limited mobility. To maintain them, provide proper nutrition, exercise, weight management, joint supplements, physiotherapy, injury prevention, and care, and consider alternative therapies or assistive devices if necessary. Common causes of hind leg weakness are arthritis, hip dysplasia, degenerative myelopathy, diabetes, fibrocartilaginous embolism, and limited mobility. Consult a veterinarian if you suspect hind leg weakness. Some German Shepherds may begin showing signs of hip dysplasia as young as four months old, while others develop osteoarthritis as they age. However, in many cases, the signs of hip dysplasia become apparent once the dog is around two years old. To reduce the risk of hip dysplasia in offspring, ensure that only German Shepherds with healthy hips are bred. If you notice your German Shepherd whining when walking , limping, hesitating or showing reluctance when moving its back legs, it may have hip dysplasia. The first sign of pain in young dogs may appear as difficulty climbing stairs, jumping into a car, or exercising freely. If you suspect hip dysplasia, consult a veterinarian for a proper diagnosis and treatment plan. Yes, a German Shepherd can recover from hind leg weakness with proper treatment, exercise, and diet. Recovery depends on the underlying cause, and it is best to speak to a veterinarian for a plan of action. Justin Author Justin is a protection dog enthusiast. He has years of experience teaching and training dogs. Read More. It seems that the more highly bred a dog is, the more likely they are to come down with DM. Diseases like this normally are self-destructive, that is to say either it will not breed true, or kills its recipient, before it can be passed on. Degenerative Myelopathy unfortunately appears to breed true, and can be seen to have infected German Shepherds, and then passed across the breeds to other large dogs. This is only my theory, but I cannot see how any other diagnosis fits all the known facts. Breeders know of this genetic fault and even though genetic testing is available, they have not failed to stop it being passed on. Irresponsible breeders will deny any knowledge of the disease. And even though DM is becoming more prevalent, some vets do not appear to be interested, although some have even had their own dogs come down with it. If you want to see just how massive this infection is, just run a search using either the full name or the initials Degenerative Myelopathy and see what results you get. Support Groups are thriving all over the Web, all offering advice, but none being of any constructive help. If humans were dying this fast, it would be considered a catastrophe, but each owner, living in their own little piece of hell, believes that their pet is just another casualty, and are unable or unwilling to see the greater picture. First Signs of Degenerative Myelopathy The best thing you can do as a pet parent is educate yourself so you can advocate for your dog and make sure they get the treatment they need. Hind Leg Cross Over: where the nerves scramble the signals to the rear legs, and the dog thinks that he is moving one leg when he is actually moving the opposite leg. Tripping: when one leg catches behind the other as the dog walks. Toe Down: where the foot or feet are curled under, and the dog rests his weight on the top of that foot. An easy test is to manually curl the foot under and place the upper surface on the ground. If the dog resets that foot, to immediately place it down correctly, no current problem. However, if it remains standing, just as you placed the foot, without resetting; then Degenerative Myelopathy is entering its obstructive phase. This led me on a search around the world, via the Web, to try and gain some understanding of exactly what he had and why. We first noticed changes in his gait about 2 years previously, when I noticed that he was scraping his rear legs every now and again. I thought that it was only his laziness, and now wished to God that it had been just that. He started getting grazes on his back feet, and we would treat each scrape and cure it, but as soon as we removed his sock s he would reinjure his paws. He was still able to leap into the car, up on the bed, pretty much wherever he wanted. As it happened, even if we had managed to get an earlier diagnosis, it would not have mattered or helped one iota. A year and a half later, Shane starting to drag his right rear leg, not badly, but sufficiently to catch the top of his foot and break the skin. We took him to our local vet, who had looked after him since he was a puppy. He did x-rays, found lesions on his spine, between his ribs and his pelvis. Just a small white mark around his lower spine. His diagnosis was Degenerative Myelopathy. Here I must say that Shane was the nicest natured dog we had ever had. He had no vices, was friends with everybody and as clean as you could ever want. When once he was caught out in the office and had to go, he even cleaned it all up, and of course was ill for a week afterwards. I tell you this, so that you will have some idea how this wicked disease affected him. Improving Mobility for a German Shepherd with DM His walks that he loved, became shorter and shorter as he tired quickly, and dragged his back feet more and more. We should have thought of a dog wheelchair sooner, but the progression of the disease caught us off guard. He suffered no pain from DM, and only yelped one time when he had overstrained his chest muscles, trying to pull himself along on his front legs. A short course of mg coated aspirin two night and morning for a couple of days fixed the pain, until it went away naturally. By now, being a really intelligent dog, he worked out that inside it was easier to stick his nearly useless back legs out sideways, and slide along on his butt, pulling himself with his front legs. To get up onto his daybed our couch he would move himself, as above, and then wait for someone to raise him onto his rear legs. After he put his front feet onto the couch, he would wait for me to lift his back end, as he moved forward to lay on his blanket. To go out, I bought a sling that went under his stomach, and he walked on his front legs with us lifting the back ones off the ground. At first when he reached his preferred spot, we could remove the sling and he would do his own thing, sometimes with my wife guiding him with his magnificent, but now almost useless tail. Finally, as winter approached, we had to support him with this tail, as the sling he being a male dog would be in the way. Dog Wheelchairs and Degenerative Myelopathy My wife and I had decided months before, that as long as his insides continued to be under his control, and he was happy being with us, we would continue to do everything we could to assist him in living. To this point he continued to have that control, and so we looked for a dog wheelchair to give him the exercise he lacked. The dog wheelchair arrived, and I assembled it. This part was easy, but the minor adjustments, to fit him comfortably took a week or so. We found that making small adjustments was the way to go, as some made things worse, and had to be immediately undone. Having finally found the correct height, length etc. In the end we found that we had to strike a happy medium. Even when correctly adjusted, pooping had to be accomplished by holding the top rear rail, and pulling back slightly, so as to draw his rear legs forward, and allow his rear end to face slightly downwards. Finally putting his tail over that rear bar, allowed him to poop cleanly and not soil himself. At first we found that the saddle tended to rub the inside of his crotch, but adding a piece of soft cotton sheeting, over the saddle and securing it in place by catching the four corners and pinning them together below, seemed to work fine. Any red spots could then be treated with talc and diaper cream, so allowing him to go for exercise every other day. I adjusted the dog wheelchair to place his rear feet flat on the ground, fitted them with boots to stop any damage from dragging. At first, each time it would take him a couple of steps before the rear legs started to work again, but once started they continued to do so for each walk period. I can still see him from behind galloping at full tilt, with his tail moving in circles. Stopping was another thing, but he managed to do so, by ceasing all leg movement and coming to a grinding halt. Not once did he manage to turn the dog wheelchair over, and had to be told when it was time to go home. Nothing was quite long enough. For those of you that are wondering about a dog wheelchair, I can tell you with no reservations that it was worth the price, even if only for a short while. The happiness that the wheelchair brought, far outweighed its cost. Normally, if allowed to continue to its final state, it moves forward to take either the front legs, lungs and heart to the brain. Most dogs or their owners do not let it proceed that far. And then came the day, he finally lost control of his bowels. We thought this over carefully and considered this an unfortunate mistake and moved on. However, we did note that when trying to poop, it became irregular, and that he would move forward whilst doing so. The Vet informed us that this was a sign that he could not feel how he was doing, and to expect a worsening in the coming weeks. Of course, it happened to him again, this time on his couch. Even though we reassured him, he looked depressed. Perhaps if he had been a less than sanitary dog, it might not have affected him that much. But my wife and I knew that finally he was really unhappy and prepared to make that decision. As I had done in the past, she remained with him, until he was finally asleep. My wife says she imagines them all running like the wind, through a field of long grass. Perhaps they will be there to meet us, finally when our time comes. We have decided that because of the prevalence of DM, we will not have any further dogs, Shepherds in particular but we are happily left with Sable II, an Australian Female Kelpie that came in from the cold, as a stray, almost 6 years ago. She did so because she fell in love with Shane, and has stayed with us ever since, but that again is a whole other story. If this behavior continues you will have to ask yourself why he is doing so. A German shepherd can go between your legs when he is being protective or greeting you. It can also be that he acquired the behavior from the previous owner, you have encouraged the behavior, or as a show of love. Read on to understand better the reason why your German shepherd is going between your legs. They are Being Protective Due to their protective nature, your German shepherd will go between your legs. Guard dogs, such as German Shepherds, are one of the most popular breeds. So, what makes them walk or sit between your legs in the first place? Your German Shepherd may be acting this way in response to a potential threat. Or a weird individual in the vicinity. Their instinct tells them to proceed with caution. As a result, they make an effort to keep a tight eye on you to protect you. Their defenses are up in case something goes wrong. Some dogs jump on their owners while others circle them as a way of greeting you. He might do it every time you get home from work. This behavior may appear absurd. You Have Encouraged the Behavior When he goes between your legs and you pet or touch it in a certain way that he enjoys, you may be reinforcing the habit. Because your German Shepherd has learned that getting between your legs provides him what he wants he will frequently go between your legs for this reason. If you want your German Shepherd to stop going between your legs, instead of patting him as he likes, ignore him and only pet him when he is behaving as you desire. Separation Anxiety It could be due to separation anxiety that he goes between your legs. This is when your German Shepherd does not appreciate being left alone with you, and it becomes uneasy as a result. Peeing or trashing items while you are away are other indicators. Lack of confidence Your German Shepherd is unfamiliar with the presence of other dogs and people in your home. As a result, whenever you have a visitor, they go between your legs This is a result of lack of confidence on their part. This may be due to a lack of social skills and exposure to other dogs. This is a typical issue in dogs who are separated from their siblings and birth mother too soon. They frequently bark and whine. You or their previous dog parents, whoever comes first. Going in between the legs is a nice trick that dogs are taught. Especially when they are in high-stress circumstances. Veterinary clinics and groomers, for example. Some dog owners, for example, utilize this technique when their canines are crossing a busy street. They also wish to keep their dog safe from oncoming traffic. If your German Shepherd is already accustomed to doing so, you should take advantage of it. And do they sometimes accompany you on your journey? Your dog is likely engaging in this behavior as a game. Aside from that, you might discover that your German Shepherd enjoys keeping an eye on the family. They keep an eye on the house. And they are at ease in your presence.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, and I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links. Take back control of their behavior using these quick and easy solutions to stop German Shepherd biting that actually works. Even better, have a set of toys that are only used when you want to engage in play with your puppy. Hide these toys in a basket or box after your game of play. This makes them extra special. They are under your control and your dog must give them back to you. Special toys are more fun for your pup to bite than you. When in doubt of what special toy your dog likes, choose from this specially-curated list of what toys German Shepherds love for interactive toy ideas to keep your dog entertained. Say OUCH! When your pup bites you, say OUCH firmly. This simple technique catches the attention of many puppies when done correctly and can train a German Shepherd puppy to not bite you. You could also make a YIP sound instead, just like their little brother and sisters would make a yipping noise when playing too rough. If they continue to bite and nip, say OUCH again and then get up immediately and leave the room for a few moments. You may return to play but keep repeating this simple process until they learn to keep their teeth on their toys. This will only encourage them to continue their unwanted behavior. Use Puppy-Safe Partition Gates Only use pet-safe partition gates that are high enough to prevent your German Shepherd from jumping over. If your pup bites you aggressively when you and your family walk past you, then use an exercise pen or this German Shepherd-sized pet safe partition gate to contain them. Only use pet-safe partition gates that are high enough to prevent and discourage your German Shepherd from jumping over to continue to try and bite you. Use the items during busy times in your home to keep your dog calm and out of areas that might increase their excitement and biting and nipping you. Puppies tend to bite and chew when their teeth are coming in. They do this to relieve the pain and help soothe themselves. Freeze a durable large Kong with their favorite treats and kibble and have them on hand for times when your dog is acting out and biting you. Give them a Kong to gnaw on and bring icy relief to their gums. Plus, chewing has been shown to help relax and calm dogs. Redirections are actions that keep your pup from engaging in unwanted behavior by showing them appropriate behavior. For example: When your dog nips you, find their teething toy to bite instead. When your dog jumps on you to bite your hands or ankles, look around for a Kong to give to them to bite on. Squeaky toys like this toy that continues to squeak , even after a puncture, are ideal to distract your dog from your hand to another object. These toys differ from their special toys mentioned above because these redirection toys are ones you leave out for your pup to chew most of the time. So, be sure to have them nearby! Use Daily Leadership Skills How many times a day do you teach your German Shepherd to listen to you and offer them leadership? Use daily interactions as an effective way of teaching your dog about leadership. Have them sit before you take them for a walk or exiting a door. Ignore them altogether. Only offer them interaction and come back to them when they show you calming behaviors. Our dogs love our attention. And German Shepherds crave it! An overfed dog that is under-exercised may display destructive behaviors because of boredom and lack of energy needs being met. Get up off the couch and go outside for a walk and sniff party. Low impact activities and free-running off-leash running are best. Choose from a list of fun and gentle, age-appropriate German Shepherd puppy exercises to keep your pup healthy and better behaved. Stop roughhousing with your dog before it frustrates them. Use appropriate, puppy-safe toys instead of play sessions. This way, your pup can bite the toy instead of your fingers, hands, or arms. You may also stress out your GSD by engaging them rough of play. For your pup to either keep up with the play or stop you from too rough play, they may bite you! From day one, avoid play that involves mouthing or teeth on the skin. Use toys to provide your dog a way they can bite to release their energy… Without nipping you! And this game is great because it teaches your dog a necessary life skill. Practice the game: multiple times a day for 2 to 3 minutes at a time Your pup learns impulse control during the game and this transfers over to their ability to stop themselves from biting you. Read below for the easy-to-follow directions. If your dog gets too worked up and then bites, then teach them this Rev Up and Cool Down game. After a few running steps and before your pup gets too excited, stop running and walk slowly. Keep moving slowly until your dog also slows down. When you see them slow down, take a few more steps calmly and peacefully. Continue with steps one through three. Each time your dog should slow down sooner and quicker. If your puppy knows any of these basic German Shepherd commands , incorporate those commands to make the training more interesting and fun. The link above will also easily explain how to teach over ten commands! The point of the Rev Up and Cool Down game is to teach them to settle and stay calm without nipping and biting you. You need to keep your pup exercised, mentally stimulated, and show them what calming behavior is. Be fair and understanding. A Shepherd is a joy to own when given the direction they desire and the commitment they need. Found this helpful? Share it! She has a Bachelor of Science degree, with Honors, and has been training dogs for over a decade. Related Posts. This is especially true with dogs like German Shepherds because they have a strong prey drive, but this nipping and biting can also quickly get out of hand. This often comes out as biting and nipping, but puppies will also bite when they are teething and to taste the world around them. This can, of course, quickly get out of hand if not taken care of swiftly. In this article, we look at the reasons behind German Shepherd puppies biting and seven steps to help stop the behavior. Training The first and most important step in stopping your puppy from biting is early and focused training. Beginning training at an early age is vital for powerful dogs like GSDs, as without it, they can easily develop problematic behaviors and even become aggressive. An important part of training is socialization, and getting your GSD to interact with other dogs will help teach them boundaries, as any biting too hard will have instant consequences for them. Image Credit: AnjaGh, Pixabay 2. Toys Toys are ideal for your GSD puppy to exercise their teething. There is a massive variety of suitable chew toys available, and whenever you notice your pooch getting the urge to chew, you can gently offer them a chew toy instead. Commands Basic and simple commands should be taught to your GSD from a young age. Whenever they get overexcited and bite down too hard, you can then simply issue a verbal command that catches their attention. After you issue the commands, leave your puppy alone for a few minutes so they learn that this behavior is unacceptable. Image Credit: Jim Sluder, Pixabay 4. Redirection Redirection is a useful tool in training and can work well with biting too. This method is simple and works by keeping your pup from unwanted behavior and offering them appropriate behavior instead. Whenever your pooch bites or nips, try to offer them a chew toy of some kind instead, and this will gradually lead them to chew toys as opposed to your hands. Squeak toys are great for this type of redirection, as the noise is enticing to most puppies and dogs. Reward good behavior Positive reinforcement training methods are best for leading your puppy toward desired behaviors and away from unwanted ones. These methods involve no scolding or harsh treatment, so they are ideal for cementing the bond between you and your pup. When you offer your dog a chew toy instead of biting and they take it or you issue a command that they instantly follow, you simply reward that behavior with either a treat or praise. You ignore any bad behavior. They will swiftly associate treats with good behavior and stop the bad behavior that gets them no attention. Image Credit: Happy monkey, Shutterstock 6. Games Since GSDs are such powerful and athletic animals, they need to be mentally and physically stimulated through games and interactive play. Games are also the best time to engage and enforce training techniques and get your GSD accustomed to them before biting gets out of hand. Stick to simple games like fetch or frisbee, where you can train your pooch to give the ball back when you tell them to. Harsh treatments like hitting or shouting are highly unlikely to solve the problem and will probably just make it worse, as your dog will simply become nervous and wary of you. With a powerful dog like German Shepherds, trust is vital. They are highly intelligent and aware animals, and the smallest of sounds or movements are enough to set them off. There are several reasons for this, including: GSD puppies will begin teething as early as 2 weeks old, and this can be uncomfortable and even painful for them. This behavior can go on until your puppy is 6 months old, and they will chew on almost anything that they can find — including your hand — in an attempt to try and soothe their discomfort. Separated too young. The first 2 months of your GSDs life is vital to their socialization and learning, and if they are taken away from their mother and litter too young, this may cause a lack of understanding of boundaries. Puppies will play and learn with the rest of their littermates, where they learn to control the force of their bite. GSDs should be at least 8 weeks old before they are re-homed. Fear or overstimulation. Fear, anxiety, and overstimulation are common reasons for puppies to lose control of their bite because this can cause them to become irritable or defensive and lead them into the habit of biting. Conclusion Since German Shepherds are such powerful dogs, proper training is vital, and bite inhibition is an essential part of that training. Proper training is the vital first step and will set the tone for all other methods. With time, consistency, patience, and gentle leadership, your German Shepherd puppy should kick the biting habit in no time. Puppies Have you ever reached down to play with a German Shepherd puppy, only to have that adorable little fur-ball pierce your skin with its razor-sharp puppy teeth? When I brought Allie into the family, she was fully in the German Shepherd puppy biting phase — so that first month was tough! Unfortunately, biting is an inevitable phase of puppyhood — it comes with the territory when you decide to be a puppy parent. My goal with this guide is to get you through the biting stage with as few battle scars as possible. Why do German Shepherd Puppies Bite? Up until this time, your puppy was with its littermates, and playtime meant lots of mouthy, nipping fun. Accordingly, this is the only way your GSD knows how to play! A German Shepherd puppy also uses their mouths to explore different things like toys — or hands, ankles, furniture… pretty much anything they can get their mouth around. Your puppy could also be teething, which can increase their mouthy behavior. Just be patient as you work through the German Shepherd puppy biting phase — give your pup time to learn to be gentle when playing or seeking your attention. Nothing is worse than an ankle-biter! I was very lucky not to have this problem with Allie. Why does your German Shepherd puppy target the ankles? Because your GSD is a working dog trying to do its job — herd you around the house like livestock. German Shepherds were originally bred for herding flocks of sheep. Your furry pal may also think heel nipping is just a really fun game. Using a toy as a distraction and keeping your pup active will help nip ankle nipping in the bud! Because she was too busy biting hands! There are lots of reasons why a pup may decide to start biting your hands. For one, good things treats, toys, love, attention come from hands. Also, hands are almost like swinging toys from the perspective of a playful pup — too enticing to pass up! How to Discourage Biting Behavior While the German Shepherd puppy biting phase is a rite of passage, there are some ways you can discourage bad biting behavior without harsh discipline. This is one of the most effective ways to teach your German Shepherd bite inhibition — or how to be gentle with her teeth. Think about when your pup was rolling and playing with their brothers and sisters — if your GSD was too rough, their sibling would let out a yelp. This trick worked great with Allie! Just make sure to be consistent until your pup gets the idea and learns to master the power of her jaws. Puppies will be puppies! Redirect the biting to an appropriate toy. For example, when your fuzzy friend latches onto your ankles, give a little puppy-like yelp, and then whip out a toy and encourage your dog to chew on that instead. Tug-of-war is the perfect game for the puppy biting phase. Socialize your puppy as much as possible. Other dogs are great at teaching your puppy that they playing too rough and biting too hard. Try a deterrent to prevent your dog from chewing or biting. If all else fails, there are lots of products designed to deter your dog from bad biting behavior. How do they work? Well, they taste awful. But if used correctly, they can definitely work. This is still attention — your puppy bites, your puppy gets attention. Otherwise, your pup may see this as a fun new game, kind of like tug-of-war but with your hands or feet as the toy. You want your furball to love playing with you! The goal here is to encourage your German Shepherd to play as much as ever but to play gently. As a pup, Allie thought she should greet everyone by jumping in their face and nipping — kind of like a kiss hello, but with teeth. And as she got bigger, it was harder to control. But trust me, it got old quickly. Be proactive. If I knew someone was coming over, I would put Allie in another room or in her crate. Once our visitor was in the house and the initial excitement had passed, I would let her out. By keeping her from greeting people right when they walked through the door, I could minimize her overzealous behavior. This is a simple command that teaches your dog to stay in her place until you give a release command. This is another way to allow the initial excitement to pass and your German Shepherd to calm down a bit before greeting anyone. Redirect attention to a toy like I talked about earlier. Fold your arms and turn away. Keep turning until your GSD stops jumping, then praise them and use a treat as a reward. What to Do If Biting Becomes Aggressive Although puppy mouthing is normal, there can be cases where biting can signal problems and possibly even aggression. Look for physical differences in your pup. If your puppy is having a moment of aggression, their body may stiffen when snarling, and bites will typically be more painful than during regular play. Also, if your GSD puppy is biting out of fear or frustration, you may need to take action. These types of behavior are not something your pup will just grow out of. While the biting phase will inevitably end, you may find yourself asking the infamous question — when do German Shepherds calm down!? I asked myself and our vet this question more than once! It honestly just depends. Sure, she had her calm moments thanks in part to her training , but she was still very hyper especially in more excitable moments. The type of German Shepherd dog is yet another variable that plays a role in its energy levels. So when do German Shepherds calm down? It really depends on your individual German Shepherd. Final Thoughts Unfortunately, the German Shepherd puppy biting phase is something all GSD puppy owners will go through, but it will pass. Try the tips above to help keep your sanity during this phase. Or any tips to help the rest of us? Please share! An aggressive pound dog pouncing on you can get quite ugly fast. Think broken bones, damaged muscles, deep lacerations, bruises, scars, and expensive medical bills. German Shepherds have a bite force of PSI pound-force per square inch, or the measure of strength that a bite inflicts on the victim , compared to humans with a bite force of PSI. In fact, the American Animal Hospital Association lists the German Shepherd as one of the six breeds with the most dangerous bites, based on a US study. Therefore, training your GSD to inhibit her bite is mandatory as it not only rewards you with a well-behaved dog, but also ensures your safety as well as the safety of the people around you. A crucial step towards correcting this nasty behavior is to first understand why German Shepherd puppies bite. Nipping or biting stems from various reasons. Understanding the root of the behavior will equip you with the proper corresponding countermeasures to correct it. German Shepherds Have a High Prey Drive One of the primary and distinct characteristics thatmake a German Shepherd a popular choice for police and military work is their high prey drive, coupled with their intelligence and high trainability. Take a look at the video below showing what GSDs were originally bred for. GSDs also have a natural inclination to chase almost everything that moves in their surroundings. They Are Teething As early as two weeks old, the baby teeth of pups start to come out. Puppies use their mouth to explore their environment, so nipping is to be expected. This behavior, called teething, can last until the puppy is six months old when all her adult teeth have started showing. Teething is very uncomfortable for puppies and can lead to sore gums, so puppies turn to anything to chew to soothe the discomfort. Unfortunately, this can include biting you! They May Be Taken From the Litter Too Early Young puppies learn to naturally inhibit their biting through socialization with their mother and their siblings. A puppy does not quite understand yet the force of her own bite unless she bites too hard and the recipient reacts by yelping out of pain. Taking a puppy away from her mother prematurely will therefore deprive her the chance to learn important socialization skills. As a rule of thumb, the American Kennel Club AKC recommends that you take home a puppy that is no less than eight weeks old. By this time, the puppy should have had ample time to interact with her playmates and learn bite inhibition. We concur that you should never take home a puppy that is less than 8 weeks old. In fact, more than half of the states in the U. This does not mean, however, that your puppy will completely stop nipping. As the new parent, it is your job to continue training the dog so that any subsequent bites should be gentler. For more on selecting the right German Shepherd puppy from a litter, including additional information on the proper age, what to look for in a puppy, and what to expect from ethical breeders, be sure to check out the 2 articles linked below: How to Buy a German Shepherd Puppy: A Step-by-Step Guide The Puppy Might Be Overstimulated, Fearful, or Anxious Sometimes puppies lose control of their bite because of overstimulation. Overstimulation can happen during playtime, or when your puppy has become cranky due to teasing. Your GSD puppy may also bite out of fear. Your puppy has but 2 defenses — to run away or to bite. If your puppy feels cornered, then biting is the defense that she will most often resort to. Because biting is normal canine behavior and GSDs are a breed that is more prone to it, the goal here is to inhibit the bite, not completely stop it. Do Start Training Early We keep mentioning throughout this site that training and socializing your GSD as soon as you get her home is crucial. Although training older dogs is not impossible, it is true that it is easier to train younger puppies, when habits are still new and can be easily corrected. If left untrained, adult German Shepherds can be prone to aggression towards other animals and humans, which can result in tragic situations. To get a better understanding of what is involved with these necessary steps, be sure to read these 2 excellent articles: German Shepherd Training Guide: All You Need to Know Do Use Toys as Alternative Items to Chew Puppies will nib on your hands or your feet especially during the teething stage. Train this behavior away by offering the puppy a toy whenever she starts biting your hand or your ankles. This teaches her what is acceptable to bite and which is not. It is good practice to always keep a chew toy nearby in anticipation of the biting behavior. She needs to understand that biting ends playtime and that it does not give her anything in return. In the Alpha Roll , the human pins down the dog on the floor on his side or back and holds that position to exert dominance. Besides, it has also been proven in many studies that dogs have very different behavior from wolves. Pinning your dog will cause him to freeze out of fear, which can also turn into aggression. It also teaches your dog that physical touch is something to be feared. Nobody wants to be punished by hand, not humans and certainly not dogs either. Do Reward Good Behavior Dog trainers and experts agree that positive reinforcement using rewards are highly effective in forming and keeping desirable behaviors as a puppy matures into an adult dog. If her nose touches your fingers without biting them, give her a treat and praise generously. Hold off the treat if she bites. Do this repeatedly until she associates the treat the reward with not biting your hand the good behavior. In fact, most dog bite cases in children occurred because of teasing! Instead, teach your child to be gentle with your pet , as even unintentional rough play can result in unwanted events. Dogs get cranky too, especially when they get hurt or feel that their privacy is being invaded. Never leave your child alone with your puppy unattended. Supervise their interactions at all times. Studies show that parents trust their dog around their kids too much that they overlook the signs that the dog is in distress. For tug games, keep in mind, however, that your dog must be calm and not overstimulated before playing. Otherwise, your puppy may get too serious and hold on to the rope too much. The AKC recommends that for breeds that are prone to aggression such as German Shepherds, tug-of-war can be safely carried out if the puppy knows you are in control and follows your commands. Once this has been established, a game of tugging can be used both as an exercise and as a reward for your dog. When playing, always remember to be gentle with tugging as your puppy still has baby teeth! By doing this, you are also socializing your puppy with other animals — an essential skill to learn for a well-rounded behavior. That being said, do not completely write off playing with your puppy! Playtime is still an excellent opportunity to bond with your dog, but make sure to keep it safe and fun by establishing boundaries. This method, however, is a matter of trial and error. Some puppies respond to this positively. On the other hand, many puppies get aroused by this and become even more aggressive. If you yelp and she stops biting without expressing any signs of aggression, the method has perhaps worked. You are then free to continue doing so until the puppy learns to stop biting hard. On the other hand, temper tantrums, according to the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals , are characterized by a stiff body, lips pulled back to show teeth, and growling. Biting will be more forceful and painful, since the behavior is typically caused by fear or anger. A German Shepherd puppy may be more prone to displaying this behavior, especially around unruly children. Bite inhibition is crucial especially among German Shepherds, a breed that is widely reported to be the culprit of many dog bites in America. Bite inhibition is simply one of the many important skills that your GSD must learn during her training. It can spell the difference between gentle playing and aggressive biting that leads to serious injuries. Always remember that dogs have feelings, too. They are not perfect little angels that never get angry. Even the most well-mannered dog in the world will snap out of irritation.

Pat yourself on the back, as you chose a tremendous breed! While adding a puppy to your family is an exciting time, raising a young puppy also requires pet owners to undertake a series of responsibilities. Puppies will require regular feeding , potty training, some toys to play with , love and attention, and, last but certainly not least, vaccinations. However, during their puppy period, they will require a series of vaccinations that are essential to their ability to fight off bacteria and diseases. Booster Vaccinations for Labrador Retrievers The first vaccinations that your labrador retriever will need are called boosters. Why call them boosters? Super creative, we agree! The first booster vaccination is recommended to be done between weeks old and is done to combat canine distemper. In many states, giving your pets a rabies shot is required by law. DHPP Vaccine and Beyond The third vaccination that your labrador retriever is scheduled to receive takes place between 16 and 20 weeks old. This very efficient shot contains four vaccines all in one that fight against distemper, adenovirus, parvovirus, and parainfluenza. Depending on the where you and your new puppy live, your labrador retriever might also need to be vaccinated against diseases such as lyme, leptospirosis, and coronavirus. The name kennel cough derives from the likelihood that dogs that are boarded contract it. The vaccine DHPP is used to prevent kennel cough. Hepatitis in dogs is a viral disease that attacks a their liver and eyes. It can lead to reproductive issues and causes significant discomfort. Though humans can also contract forms of hepatitis, this form can not be transmitted to humans. It can be transmitted to humans. DHPP is used to prevent it. Parvovirus is a serious and highly contagious disease that is especially dangerous for puppies. It is often fatal. The cost of vaccinations will vary slightly depending on the provider. We recommend that you call a few of your local veterinarians or clinics to ask for price quotes for of each vaccination you are preparing to give your puppy. Another option for pet owners is to consider acquiring pet insurance for their labrador retriever. Pet insurance provides pet owners with the freedom to make veterinary decisions without stressing the financial implications. Learn why most vets recommend pet insurance to pet owners. Looking to learn more about your labrador retriever? PetPlace is a wonderful resource for pet owners who want to discover more about their pet, and others. We have thousands of vet-approved articles that will quench your thirst for pet-related info. Specific to labrador retrievers, you can discover 5 attributes about labs that make them great or tips for house training your new puppy. Rabies Vaccine Rabies is a viral infection caused by a virus secreted in the saliva. According to the Humane Society , because the infection affects the nervous system, most rabid animals behave abnormally. When should puppies get rabies shots? Generally speaking, puppies should get their first rabies shot around 16 weeks of age and again between years old. Rabies Vaccine Schedule for Puppies 1st shot: weeks Booster: every 3 years Non-core Vaccines Non-core vaccines are important, but they are considered optional for dogs with less risk of infection. Non-core vaccines are recommended based on lifestyle and where you live or travel. Bordetella Bordetella bronchiseptica is a bacterium associated with respiratory disease in dogs and is known to cause the most severe form of kennel cough. Symptoms of an upper respiratory infection include nasal discharge, sneezing, coughing, congestion, etc. Some veterinarians may recommend Bordetella as a core vaccine for puppies based on their living environment, especially for social dogs who spend time in areas where they might come into contact with the bacteria like the dog park, boarding facilities, or doggy daycare. The vaccination can be given orally, intranasally, or by injection. Bordetella Vaccine Schedule for Puppies 1st shot: weeks Booster: every year Leptospira Leptospirosis is a bacterial disease caused by infection of the genus Leptospira, which are found in water and soil. The zoonotic disease spreads easily from animals to humans and is more common in warm climate areas with high annual rainfall; the Leptospira vaccine may be considered core in these areas. Signs of leptospirosis may include shivering, fever, muscle tenderness, increased thirst, dehydration, diarrhea, vomiting, lethargy, jaundice, kidney failure, liver failure, etc. Leptospira Vaccine Schedule for Puppies 1st shot: weeks 3rd shot: 1 year Booster: every year There is also a 5-way vaccine known as DHLPP, which is a combination vaccine of distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, parainfluenza, and parvo. Lyme disease Lyme disease is caused by infection with the bacterium Borrelia burgdorferi which is transmitted through the bite of infected ticks. The most common symptoms in dogs include loss of appetite, lameness, joint swelling, swollen lymph nodes, and fatigue. More serious cases can also develop kidney complications. The Lyme disease vaccine is highly recommended for dogs that live in or frequently travel to areas known for Lyme disease, as well as those living in areas with a high risk of tick exposure. Lyme Vaccination Schedule for Puppies 1st shot: weeks 2nd shot: weeks later Booster: every year Canine Influenza Canine influenza, or dog flu, is a contagious viral infection affecting dogs. The virus is spread through aerosols or droplets containing respiratory secretions from barking, sneezing, and coughing. Dogs in close contact with infected dogs in places like daycare facilities, groomers, and kennels are at a higher risk of contracting the disease. CIV causes an acute respiratory infection in dogs, with the most common clinical sign being a cough that persists for up to 21 days. Vaccines are available for both H3N2 and H3N8 canine influenza. A bivalent vaccine offering protection against both strains is available as well. Dogs become infected when they swallow the parasite that may be present in water or other substances that have been soiled with feces leading to the disease Giardiasis. Giardia in dogs usually causes diarrhea, weight loss, or even death. Giardia is an available vaccine for puppies 8 weeks of age and older for 6 months of immunity against giardiasis. Most common symptoms include vomiting, diarrhea, and loss of appetite. Young dogs are at a high risk of contracting the disease, so the vaccine is highly recommended for puppies under eight weeks. Rattlesnake vaccine A rattlesnake vaccine can help dogs build antibodies to rattlesnake venom from bites that are often deadly and severely painful to dogs. The antibodies work to neutralize the venom, thereby significantly extending the window of time you have to take your dog to the emergency room , increasing their odds of survival. Protect yourself from heartbreak without breaking the bank. Compare quotes to find the best deal for your budget. After that, puppies should receive a series of vaccines every two to four weeks until actual protein can be achieved between the ages of 6 and 20 weeks old. Your vet will determine a safe vaccine schedule for your puppy based on their weight, health, age, etc. Some pet parents prefer getting multiple puppy shots in one vet visit to minimize stress on their pet, whereas others prefer to spread the shots out to reduce possible side effects and soreness — talk to your vet to create a safe vaccine schedule that works for you and your puppy. Rabies depends on local laws but is usually given by the time your dog reaches 3 to 6 months old. When should puppies have all their shots by? Most vets prefer giving the final DHPP shot at 16 weeks or later; however, new recommendations suggest up to 20 weeks out. When do puppies need booster shots? Abstaining from booster shots can put your puppy at risk. However, not all vaccines require yearly boosters. DHPP vaccine booster: every two weeks for a total of three sets, then every three years Lepto, Canine influenza, and Lyme disease vaccine booster: one month after the initial series, then annually Bordetella booster: 1 year or every 6 months where there is a concern Rabies booster: every 1 to 3 years after the initial round, depending on state laws Puppy Vaccine Schedule There are several types of puppy shots your pet might get in their first year. In addition to a deworming schedule, your vet will suggest a vaccination schedule for puppies based on their age, environment, and medical history. Most vets recommend this general timeline for first-year puppy shots: weeks of age Between 6- and 8-weeks-old, puppies get their first shot of the DHPP distemper, hepatitis, parainfluenza, parvovirus vaccine. They might also receive their first round of vaccinations for Bordetella and Lyme disease. Leptospira Lepto is a common puppy vaccination administered around this time frame. They'll also get their first rabies vaccine depending on state-mandated vaccine schedules for puppies, as well as a second shot of the Lepto vaccine if applicable. Boosters Every Years Puppies will need a booster shot for all vaccines at age 1. Dogs need booster vaccinations for Bordetella, Lepto, Lyme, and Giardia annually receiving their first immunization as an adult. The vaccination schedule for DHPP and rabies is every 3 years, but check your local laws and defer to your veterinarian's advice to ensure your pet stays free of disease. How much are puppy shots? Non-essential vaccines your vet may recommend will also increase the price. Note that puppy shots cost more or less depending on several different factors, including your location. For instance, vets in crowded urban areas tend to charge more than vets in smaller towns and rural areas. Also keep in mind that you'll need to budget for booster shots in one- or three-year intervals to ensure your pet stays protected from disease. Fortunately, vaccines for dogs are less expensive than first-year puppy shots because boosters are administered in one dose every few years, as opposed to multiple doses every few weeks. All puppies need to get the core vaccines, i. Your veterinarian will consider the risk factors and advise you on which vaccines are best for your puppy during the first vet visit. No, but both vaccines for puppies are often combined in one shot. Distemper and parvovirus are two different illnesses that are potentially fatal if not treated quickly. What is the 5-in-1 shot for puppies? Do puppies need 3 or 4 sets of shots? It depends on their age; vets may recommend a shorter puppy vaccination schedule for dogs over 16 weeks old and not yet fully vaccinated. How many shots do puppies need before going outside? A titer test is a blood test showing whether your puppy has antibodies for a particular illness. The test can be used to determine the effectiveness of a vaccine and help determine if or which booster vaccines your dog needs. Most doggy daycares and boarding facilities do not accept a titer test in lieu of a puppy vaccination record. When should puppies get dewormed? Because worms are very common in puppies, veterinarians recommend deworming them for the first time when they're two to three weeks old. Is there a heartworm vaccine for puppies? Preventatives can either be administered as monthly medication or every six months by injection. How can you save money on puppy shots? One way to save money on puppy vaccines is by visiting a low-cost vaccination clinic. These clinics typically offer packages that combine a bundle of vaccinations into a lower price point, but also offer individual options if your dog is due for a specific vaccine. Another way to save money on puppy shots is by purchasing a pet wellness plan through a pet insurance provider. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. Vaccinations can protect your dog against a variety of life-threatening illnesses. Not to mention, some vaccinations are required by law. Why Do Puppies Need Vaccinations? Puppies need vaccinations to help prevent the catching of various dangerous diseases. If your dog ever comes in contact with a disease they have been vaccinated against, his immune system will know how to destroy it. There are vaccines available to protect your puppy against more than 11 different diseases. However, depending on your circumstances and where you live, your puppy might not need them all. Your vet will be able to recommend those they think your really needs, with others being up to your choice. There are four core vaccines for diseases all puppies should be vaccinated against and seven non-core vaccines that the American Animal Hospital Association and the American Veterinary Medicine Association recommend. The non-core vaccines may or may not be recommended by your vet, depending on different variables, mostly the prevalence or absence of a disease in your area. The Core Vaccinations Rabies. This is a potentially fatal and highly contagious disease. Depending on which state or country you live in, your dog will need to have a booster once every one to three years. This common virus is hard to treat and has an 80 percent fatality rate, which is why inoculating against it is so important. Canine viral hepatitis is also known as adenovirus. Canine distemper. Before vaccination, this was a big killer of dogs. Vaccinating against this disease will protect your puppy if he comes in contact with the virus while out and about. The Non-Core Vaccinations Lyme disease. The vast majority of cases have occurred in the eastern American coastal states between Massachusetts and Virginia. Parainfluenza and Bordetella. The parainfluenza virus and the bordetella bacterium are both major causes of kennel cough. Inoculation is generally only necessary if your puppy is going to be exposed to many other dogs. For instance, at boarding kennels, doggy daycare or dog shows. This infectious disease is a common cause of stomach upset. This bacteria can infect dogs and their human companions. In serious cases it can cause organ failure and death in dogs. In certain high-risk parts of the country, your dog might need a booster every six months. Giardia are parasites that commonly live in the digestive tracts of dogs. Many dogs have them, but they rarely cause problems. How Are Vaccines Given? Most vaccines are given as injections. These are given either under the skin or into the muscle. Most combination injections protect against distemper, leptospirosis, hepatitis, parainfluenza, coronavirus and parvovirus. This allows their body time to develop a good immune response. Recommended and Most Common Schedule of Vaccinations: 6 to 7 weeks old: This is when your puppy should get his first combination injection. He needs his second combination vaccine. Make sure you have a record of his first injection to show your new vet. If necessary, he will also have a Lyme disease vaccine. At this point, your vet will advise you when your puppy can go out for his first walk. Are There Any Risks Involved? Unfortunately, there are potential risks to having your puppy vaccinated. That said, the risks are far outweighed by the benefits. However, you should monitor your dog closely after a vaccination and contact your vet right away if you notice any of the following symptoms: Hives. What Vaccines Do Puppies Need? Core Versus Non-Core Vaccines CORE vaccines: Some infectious diseases of dogs are so common, debilitating, easily spread, or can be spread to people zoonotic that vaccination against them is deemed of critical importance. The first three are often administered as the combination DA2P shot. NON-CORE vaccines: On the other hand, there are diseases and conditions for which there are vaccines, but either because of their limited geographic distribution meaning they don't affect all parts of the country equally , lesser severity, specific lifestyle risk factors, or other reasons, they are not automatically recommended for every dog. The Benefits of Vaccines The benefits of vaccines far outweigh any risks. Vaccines are very effective and safe. Their use has notably decreased the morbidity and mortality associated with many infectious diseases. Per a study, there were only .Adverse events were more typical among smaller dogs and those receiving multiple vaccinations at one visit. Vaccine Safety Before I jump into which vaccines your puppy may need, it's critical to know that where they get their vaccines is equally as important. This is because individuals and organizations that aren't regulated, like veterinarians are, buy vaccines from places that may not know how to handle them properly. They may allow the vaccines to get warm, and this inactivates them. Or people transport them and don't keep them temperature-controlled or leave them in a vehicle for too long. In both these cases, the vaccines are essentially useless. Where you get your vaccines matters, and your veterinarian is trained and regulated to administer them properly. Puppy Vaccines By Age 6—8 weeks of age In some cases, your puppy will already have received some of these vaccines before you pick them up. Check with the people or organization you're getting your puppy from to confirm which vaccines your pup received and when. See the safety note above. This information is important for your vet to have to know best how to structure your pup's initial vaccination series, as all these puppy vaccines need to be given in a series of initial shots followed by booster shots. This vaccine may be administered as a DA2PP, which is the same thing but also includes protection against Parainfluenza an important but non-core vaccine to help protect against a highly contagious respiratory virus. If your puppy is only receiving its first vaccine or is a toy breed, your veterinarian may administer the Bordetella at the next appointment. The Bordetella vaccine comes in three different types, intra-nasal, oral, or injectable. Depending on which type of vaccine your veterinarian uses will determine if it needs to be boosted in 2 to 4 weeks. This vaccine is often recommended for dogs who will go to dog daycare, puppy classes, dog parks, dog shows, be boarded, etc. Dog Flu There are two different canine flu vaccines available, each protecting against a different strain of dog flu. If this is the first dose of this vaccine your pup is receiving, they will need another vaccination in 2—4 weeks, depending on which vaccine they are given, for the best protection. Again, this non-core vaccine is suitable for dogs who will go to puppy classes, grooming, dog parks, dog shows, travel, be boarded, etc. However, the facility needs to be clean, and all pups in attendance need to have also received their first veterinary-administered vaccines and deworming. Check with your vet and your puppy training facility of choice on timing, and see this position statement on puppy socialization timing from the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior. Meet some not all other dogs: A puppy can usually also start to meet other KNOWN and healthy puppies and adult dogs at this point in locations that are safe and clean. Avoid: Sidewalks, parks, pet stores, doggie daycare, groomers, and other areas or settings frequented by other unknown dogs. Socialization of puppies is critically important for their emotional and behavioral development, and it isn't just about them being "social" with other dogs or even people. There are many "non-social" things that young puppies need to be properly exposed to early on. Check out our Pupstanding App with its fun, easy-to-use checklist to help socialize your pup. Either way, it's an important visit. This vaccine may be administered as a DA2PP, which is the same thing, but also includes protection against Parainfluenza an important but non-core vaccine. Kennel Cough The initial vaccine can be given at this age if necessary or desired, depending on the type of vaccine used intra-nasal, oral, or injectable. Depending on which type of vaccine your veterinarian uses will determine if it needs to be boostered in 2 to 4 weeks. If this is the first dose of this vaccine your pup is receiving, they will need another vaccination in 2—4 weeks, depending on which vaccine they are receiving, for the best protection. Avoid: Sidewalks, parks, pet stores, daycare, and other areas or settings used by other unknown dogs should be avoided. Shopping malls and home improvement stores can be great places to socialize your puppy without excessive risk of contagious dog diseases. However, keeping your pet in a stroller or backpack lessens your pup's chances of being exposed to diseases. Your goal is to remove any trace of fecal matter before your pup licks their paws or contaminates your care or home. Their booster shots at this visit are important to build their immunity and help protect them from these diseases. This vaccine may be administered as a DA2PP, which is the same thing but also includes protection against Parainfluenza an important non-core vaccine. State and local regulations determine the age at which all dogs must be vaccinated for rabies. See below for more detail on what this vaccine covers against and why you or your vet might want to consider it. Note: Because Lepto can be devastating to both your dog and you it is zoonotic , and also because all dogs can be at risk including even indoor-only dogs and those that never leave their backyard , your veterinarian may highly recommend and consider this vaccine "core," and may recommend starting the initial series in the 9—12 week age range rather than 12— 16 weeks old. See below for more detail on what the Lepto vaccine covers against and why you or your vet might want to consider it. Where your puppy can usually go and what they can usually do after this 12—16 week vaccine visit: Play with unknown dogs: Following this visit, a puppy can usually begin to expand their circle of friends to include unknown dogs i. Still avoid: Daycare centers, fields, and parks including dedicated dog parks should still be avoided. Where your puppy can usually go and what they can usually do after this 15—17 week vaccine visit: Freedom! One week after this final puppy vaccine visit, most pups have enough vaccine protection against the common vaccinable conditions to be able to get a full groom and go to the dog park, doggie daycare, pet stores, and other places where large groups of unknown dogs frequent and congregate. Of course, it's still a good idea to keep an eye out and avoid any obviously sick dogs. Booster vaccinations will be needed throughout their life. The frequency and types of vaccine boosters your dog will need throughout their life are influenced by their lifestyle, where you live and travel to with them, how common certain diseases are in your area and at different times of the year, and a host of other factors. For some dogs and some conditions, titers blood tests measuring the level of antibodies in your dog's system may help to determine vaccination intervals and may be preferable. This is a discussion to have with your vet. Titer Testing for Dogs A titer is a test that is done using a sample of your dog's blood to measure the level of antibodies to a specific disease. Antibodies are proteins made by the body as a response to antigens. Antigens are foreign substances or stimuli to the body, such as viruses, bacteria, or vaccinations, that cause the body to mount an immune response. Vaccine titers are used as a screening tool to determine whether or not to revaccinate for a particular disease. If a vaccine titer comes back high, this indicates that your dog, if exposed to that disease, should be able to fight it off. The problem with titers Vaccines are given either yearly or every 3 years. With titers, there is no way to predict what the levels will be in three to six months, even if they tested high at the time of the titer testing. Many factors can affect the immune system and its level of resistance. Factors such as disease, stress, or medications can impact it, and therefore there is no consistency over time regarding what the antibody levels could be. This could put your dog at risk until you go in for another titer test. Rabies is a vaccine required by law in all states. There are only certain states that allow titers for medical exceptions. Every puppy is different. Similarly, some puppies are born with deficiencies in their immune system, or their immune system may develop more slowly because of dietary or other factors. Maternal immunity is protective but can interfere with a puppy's vaccinations. Over the first few weeks of life, maternal immunity begins to decline, and by about 12 weeks it is generally gone. However, some puppies are provided protection by maternal immunity as old as 20 weeks. The vaccines are given as a series to give the maternal immunity time to wane while their own immune system is fully developing in response to and in conjunction with their shots. Missing a Vaccine or Booster Shot Dog owners should be aware that missing or delaying a vaccine in a series for more than 4 weeks puts a puppy at risk of disease. During the initial series of a vaccine, if you delay a booster more than six weeks or miss one, an additional booster vaccine will be needed 3 weeks after resuming the series. For example, if you miss the third vaccine in the DA2P series, a vaccine will be given and then boosted again in 3 weeks. Note: You may need to restart a series two vaccine doses 3 to 4 weeks apart for yearly vaccines that are not boosted within 1 year and 6 weeks from the last vaccine given. Vaccine-Preventable Diseases in Dogs The core vs. Your veterinarian is your best resource for helping to determine which vaccines your new pup would benefit from and when. They are the only ones who have the medical training and understanding, as well as the first-hand knowledge of your dog and your environment necessary to best guide you. Note that some of the vaccinable conditions listed below can be zoonotic, meaning that they can also infect and cause disease in people. The bacteria is transmitted through the air or direct contact, especially when an infected dog coughs or sneezes. It can also be spread by contaminated clothing, bowls, beds, and other communal surfaces such as cages or kennels. It seems like every time you turn around, there's another shot your pup needs. And keeping track of all the different types of vaccinations can be a real challenge. But don't worry, we're here to help. In this article, we provide a comprehensive A-to-Z guide for dog vaccination in India - covering everything you need to know about what shots are available, when they should be administered, and more! Why vaccinate your dog? There are a number of important reasons to vaccinate your dog. Vaccinations help protect your dog from a variety of serious and potentially deadly diseases. They also help reduce the spread of disease among dogs and from dogs to humans. Vaccinating your dog is one of the best things you can do to keep them healthy and happy and is an important part of responsible pet parenting. So here's a quick rundown of the most common vaccinations dogs need. All dogs should be vaccinated against rabies, and booster shots should be given every one to three years depending on state law. Parvovirus: Parvovirus is a deadly disease that can affect dogs of all ages, but puppies are especially vulnerable. The virus attacks the gastrointestinal system, causing severe vomiting and diarrhoea. Parvovirus can also cause heart problems and death. All dogs should be vaccinated against parvovirus, with booster shots given every one to two years. Distemper: Distemper is a highly contagious disease that affects the respiratory, gastrointestinal, and nervous systems of dogs. It can cause severe coughing, vomiting, diarrhoea, seizures, and death. Puppies are especially vulnerable to the disease. All dogs should be vaccinated against distemper, with booster shots given every one to two years. Leptospirosis: Leptospirosis is a bacterial disease that affects the kidneys and liver of dogs. It can be transmitted through contact with contaminated water or soil. The disease can cause severe kidney damage and death. All dogs should be vaccinated against leptospirosis, with booster shots given every one to two years. Infectious Canine Hepatitis: Hepatitis is a viral disease that affects the liver of dogs. The symptoms can range from loss of appetite and thirst, fever and bleeding. It is usually spread through contact with contaminated or infected urine, saliva or faeces. Non-core Vaccines for Dogs: There are a few vaccines that are considered "non-core" for dogs, which means that they are not necessarily required for all dogs. However, your veterinarian may recommend them based on your dog's lifestyle and risk factors. Bordetella kennel cough is a bacteria that can cause respiratory infections in dogs. It is often spread through close contact with other dogs, so if your dog socialises with other dogs regularly, your veterinarian may recommend this vaccine. Canine ParaInfluenza is a virus that can cause respiratory illness in dogs. It is most commonly spread through close contact with other infected dogs. You might want to get this vaccine once you discuss it with your veterinarian. Lyme Vaccine is used to help prevent Lyme Disease, which is caused by a bacteria transmitted by ticks. If your dog spends time in areas where ticks are common such as woods or tall grass , your veterinarian may recommend this vaccine. Coronavirus: The canine coronavirus CCoV is a virus that can cause intestinal infections and abdominal discomfort in dogs. It is most commonly spread through close contact with other infected dogs, therefore, if your dog socialises with other dogs regularly, you can consider administering this vaccine once you discuss it with your veterinarian. They will need a booster shot every weeks of core vaccines until they are 16 weeks old. After that, they will need an annual booster shot.

Eager to get started? This is an important consideration because puppies have smaller bladders and may not have full control over them yet so a little extra patience and understanding is required. Like many dogs, senior Labradoodles can be harder to housetrain but if you own a puppy, you can start training them when they reach 4 to 6 months old. The Labradoodle is a naturally smart breed and will take about 4 to 5 months to housetrain. Consistent training and applying the right training methods will go a long way in making the process easier for you and your dog. Dogs are in the habit of sniffing the ground before doing their business. Barking and Whining Your dog will sometimes bark and whine to let you know that it needs to go outside. They can be signs of discomfort as they get the urge to pee or poop. Going in Circles This is another indication that your dog needs to go outside. Here are 3 methods we recommend. Choose one that you feel will work best for you: Method 1: Using Commands A tried and tested classic potty-training method, commands allow us to communicate with our dogs so they know what we expect from them. How To Do It As you start out, this method requires you to take your dog out 10 to 30 minutes after finishing a meal and every three hours. Issue your command and eventually, your dog will learn to associate the action with the word. Method 2: Bell Ringing This has to be one of the more impressive ways to train your Labradoodle. You can train your dog to ring a bell whenever it needs to go out for potty. Australian Labradoodles are a different breed the Labradoodles although similar! You only need to attach a bell like this one to your door so that it rings every time you go out. Potty Bells dog doorbells are THE original dog doorbell made of only the highest quality.Great Training Tool: Tired of the scratching and barking at your door? Dog potty door bells are the perfect aid to housetrain your puppy or dog. Follow our easy 3 step training guide. Teach your pooch.Simply the best puppy training bells for dogs. Eight color options. Black and grey Potty Bells also.Function: Potty Bells are the original superior dog training aid for housebreaking your puppy. Adjustable strap training bell is ideal for any size or age puppy or dog. Use the strong holding snaps to.We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you. Teach your dog to ring the bell on its own. To do so, you can hold a treat near the bell and when your dog makes it ring, reward your pet with the treat and praise your dog profusely. If this happens, let them out anyway. Your pet will sooner or later tire of the game and will only ring the bell to alert you of legitimate potty breaks. Method 3: Crate-training Crate-training is another classic method for potty-training. This method also gives your dog a safe space where they feel comfortable and cozy as they adjust to a new home. Make sure that your dog can comfortably lie down, turn around, and stand in it. This method requires you to move quickly and let your dog out at the earliest sign that it needs to go. You can also let your dog out even before it starts sniffing and moving in circles. Depending on the dog, it can take days or weeks for crate training to work. Note that younger dogs will need to go out more frequently than older dogs. What should you name your Labradoodle puppy? Our best Labradoodle name ideas. Tips for Potty-training Success Do you have an idea of which training method you want to use? Here are some things to keep in mind: Tip 1: Maintain a Consistent Schedule One of the best ways to predict when your Labradoodle will need to go is to maintain a consistent feeding schedule. When you serve meals at the same time every day, your dog will learn to anticipate them and have more consistent bowel movements as well. You can also incorporate scheduled walks and playtime to create more consistency and give them the physical and mental stimulation that healthy dogs need. Tip 2: Treats and More Treats! Labradoodles have a healthy appetite that you can use to your advantage while potty-training them. Since Labradoodles inherit the eager to please personalities of their poodle parent , you can also shower them with praise and belly rubs to show them how pleased you are with them. Pro Tip: If your dog rings the bell, or relieves itself on command or right after you let it out of the crate, reward it immediately so they learn to associate the action with the reward. Tip 3: Build a Strong Bond This must be one of the most enjoyable tips on this list because it entails cuddling with your Labradoodle and spending time with it. As their owner, your dog will not only thrive by having a healthy and secure relationship with you but will also want to please you during potty-training. A great way to build a strong bond with your dog is by feeding it from your hand. This is particularly effective for shy and fearful dogs. Dogs by nature love their humans and enjoy their company. You can also use the opportunity to get to know your dog better. Additionally, pee pads are also much easier and more pleasant to deal with than cleaning your floor. Tip 5: Make Learning Fun As their owner, you can help them associate following commands with positive experiences. After your Labradoodle is done relieving itself, spend a few minutes playing with them. Get to know what activities they enjoy the most and reward them by engaging in them. While it may seem like an obvious and practical lesson, it may take some time for Labradoodles to understand what we want from them. Despite the challenges, potty training is worth the time and effort that you put in. Imagine what a difference a properly housetrained dog makes compared to an untrained one. Being patient with them as they learn will also help you establish a strong bond and make it easier if you want to teach them more tricks in the future. Remember to be patient, consistent, give your dog a structured schedule, and immediately reward your furry friend whenever the situation calls for it. If, once in a while your dog fails to measure up, just keep at it, and sooner or later your Labradoodle will pick up on what you want it to do. My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More. You must understand his nature as an animal and companion. Knowing these things will help you house-train your dog. In this way, you can give rewards or praise when the dog does well. These rewards will likely depend on what dogs want as dog food or as a simple pat on the back. The next thing you need to know, in addition to the time it takes, you should also be patient enough to train your child at home. If you find it difficult to train a human child, it would be impossible to train a dog. Communicating with your dog can be the most difficult part. However, when you understand them, their nature will be more relaxed. Patience is a key aspect of ensuring that the dog learns what it wants to learn. It should feel that your home is with you, the person who is training you. In this way, the dog would surrender to your order and would do as you say. You, as a coach, should always have quality time together in the form of connecting through games or as easy as doing it together in the park. Unfortunately, many dog owners have no idea how to train their dogs at home. Go Outside Every Couple of Hours A Labradoodle puppy should be outside every time it has slept, eaten, had something to drink, after playtime, or just after being really excited. That might seem excessive, so as a rule of thumb, it might be easier to just remember to allow it outside every hours. That should lower the risk of an accident quite a bit. A clear signal that your puppy is about to have a call of nature, is that it will spin around itself a few times, before sitting down on its bottom. When you see this, quickly get it outside. Praise and Treats Shouting and screaming have probably never helped anything, the puppy will learn far more by positive reinforcement. This way it will quickly find out which behavior is rewarded, and the puppy would naturally want to repeat those actions. The reason why it might have a few accidents inside is that it has never really learned any alternative. When there is the occasional accident, there is really no better way, than to just get a paper towel, clean it up, and move on. Patience is a virtue If you do intervene with the puppy, it might take a bit of time before it remembers where it left off. And the second you get back inside where there are peace and quiet, the puppy will let out a sigh of relief, and pee on the floor. Quick Summary Let the dog outside every time it has eaten or had a drink. Also quickly after a nap. To begin with, also a couple of times through the night. Start as soon as possible. And if you want it to primarily go on grass, introduce it to this element fast. Perhaps even use the same area so the puppy is familiarized with the spot. Praise it when the opportunity is there. By following these simple ideas, you should be able to house-train any puppy. And if you want even more detailed advice and tips on how to house-train your puppy, this guide affiliate link has pretty helpful tricks you might be interested to look into. Additional Tips for House Training a Labradoodle Puppy Training Tip 1 The first rule of thumb to train your dog at home is to stick with foods that are already used to his system. Giving your Labradoodle puppy fatty foods can make it difficult to control his intestines. Training Tip 2 Not only is it important to feed your dog the food it is used to, but it is also very important to feed it every day. Doing this makes home training easy for both you and your dog; for your dog because it helps you establish a regular elimination pattern. And for you, because you can use this pattern to your advantage when it comes to training your pet, quickly and efficiently. Training Tip 3 You probably already have the idea that schedules are a good idea when it comes to training your dog at home. Well, here is another piece of the puzzle. Then be sure to take it out every few hours throughout the day. Doing so will help you understand that his business must be done outside. The sooner he learned this, the better. If you can avoid it, you really want to prevent your dog from entering. Not only because cleaning is a pain, but because the smell is almost impossible to remove and will continue to attract your Labradoodle puppy repeatedly. Hopefully, your dog will crash from time to time during training. When this happens, immediately clean the pool. Remember, animals tend to repeatedly return to places where they can smell urine or feces, so be sure to clean them well, especially carpets. If you notice your Labradoodle puppy gravitate to the point and bend down to do his business again, pick him up and take him outside. You may also want to check with your local pet store for something to help you get rid of the smell. Dogs often behave in a certain way when they feel the need to eliminate. It is much easier to train your Labradoodle puppy at home when you are alert and ready to accompany your little one as soon as you see the first signs that he may need to leave. You may want to look at boxes to train your dog. With a little time and training, he will learn how to do his business where he should. The key here is to make sure your labradoodle puppy gets out of the box and into the yard! Training Tip 6 Good behavior should be praised. Then give credit where it is due. Your Labradoodle puppy will do almost anything to gain approval. You must make it very obvious that you are satisfied with his behavior, so be enthusiastic and effusive. Later, when obedience training begins, your Labradoodle puppy will already know that obedience equals praise, so home training sets the stage for all your dog training efforts. Doing so will truly show your pooch that working together outside is synonymous with being distant from everyone else. Put a positive turn on the whole preparation experience. Praise your little one while doing business, and then spend a few minutes on quality playtime. He will learn faster, and you will both be happier. Daring your dog after the disaster will only scare him of you or the mess. And in some cases, it can even cause your dog to start eating its waste because it feels its presence annoys it. Training Tip 8 Pick a verbal order. The pet is more used to short expressions that its owner utilizes much of the time. Since mistakes will continue to occur during the home training process, you will need a variety of hand-cleaning supplies. You can use Bleach to neutralize urine, but beware of where you put it away, as it will stain some clothes. Buying cleaning products for controlling pet mess will be more beneficial than using regular cleaning products. It takes a lot of love, but your dog will learn not to make the whole house his personal bathroom. Final Words Not all puppies are created equal when it comes to training. Some require more time and effort than others, but the training methods are usually very similar. It takes time and dedication to train a dog properly. Patience is the key to training, and repetition is key to reinforcing the learning process. The age of the little dog can be critical, as it is commonly simpler to prepare more puppies. If possible, training should start between six and eight weeks. Different races can also play an important role in training methods. Different breeds have different temperaments and personalities. Then take him outside immediately. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. Toilet areas can be as specific as a litter box or as general as an area outside. You must have a clear idea, however, of what is an acceptable toilet spot, before you start educating your dog. Your dog can be trained to use only a specific corner of the yard if you are willing to take the time to train your dog to that level of understanding. Your attitude is the most important ingredient in the formula of house training. You are taking your dog or puppy through a process of education; he does not know that it is wrong to use your carpet as his toilet. His Mother never told him. It is not preprogrammed into his genetic coding. It is your job to help him understand the whole concept. With patience and understanding you and your furry friend should be able to achieve your goal in a few short weeks. Keep all meals on a predictable schedule. Avoid any rich foods that could upset your puppy's bowels. Establish a bedtime and a wake up time. Puppies need a lot of nap times, make sure your schedule allows for these. Keep in mind, your puppy will need to go out immediately after all naps. Anytime your puppy has been emotionally stimulated IE frightened or a very rowdy play time your puppy may experience the need to eliminate. Supervise in the house If you know where your dog is at all times and what he is doing, you can catch him before he makes a mistake.If he starts to make a mistake, firmly but calmly say "No" and take him straight out to the toilet area. Do not yell at your puppy or chase him. If you are busy and cannot totally supervise your puppy, put him in a contained area, where he won't make a mistake, or tie him to the door knob of the room you are in. When supervision is not possible gone to work all day? Provide a small area to contain your puppy IE a crate or small bathroom or fenced off corner of the garage. Do not leave food and water with your puppy and do not load your puppy down with a lot of doggie cookies. If you are gone 8 hours, it would be good to find someone who would take him for a walk and give him some water. Take Your Puppy Out Take your puppy out to the desired toilet area and stand quietly while your puppy investigates the area for the "right" spot. This is not play time! Do not distract your puppy by trying to talk to him into hurrying up. If he does not go potty during that time , return him to the house and contain him in a crate for a half hour, then try again. When he does start to potty, quietly and calmly praise him while he is in the process of going potty. Use the word you have chosen for this IE "Good Potty", when he is done, you can praise him with more enthusiasm. Learn your puppy's habits. Some puppies need to potty 2 or 3 times in one outing. Urination is often followed by a BM. If the weather is foul and you aren't happy about taking out your puppy, it is very important not to let your puppy sense this. You may create a dog that does not like using the outside to do his business in foul weather. While you are learning your puppy's habits, take him out, every time he wakes up, after he has eaten, and after all play sessions. Help your puppy get outside to the appropriate potty area; follow the preceding instructions for taking your puppy out. Clean the mess with an odor neutralizer. Your puppy's sense of smell is far superior to ours. If it smells like a toilet area to him, he will continue to use that area for a toilet. Do not clean up the mess in front of the puppy. Put the puppy on a leash and calmly bring him to the scene of the accident. Keep the dog to your side, not in front of you. While your puppy is watching.Blot up some of the urine on a tissue and take it and your puppy out to the appropriate toilet area. Place the tissue with the potty on it on the ground, with the puppy watching; Praise the tissue for being in the right area, then leave the tissue there. Clean up the remaining mess as previously stated. By: David Codr Published Date: May 2, For this Omaha puppy training session we go over remedial potty training to help 15 week-old Labradoodle puppy May stop having accidents as well as share tips to stop 5 year-old Maltipo Friend from marking in the house. Being a mature puppy, May is all about energy and playing. After sharing some creative exercise ideas and enrolling May into our puppy socialization classes , we discussed how to add rules and structure by petting with a purpose and rewarding desired behaviors with passive training. I asked how they potty trained the puppy and its possible there was some confusion between the puppy and people. I handed my camera to the guardians so I could share potty training tips to use when you have a mature puppy peeing in the house. Many puppies and adult dogs need to brush up with some remedial potty training tips. If the guardians take the dog out as detailed in the free dog training video below, they should be able to potty train their puppy the positive way. To help the guardian remember all the tips we shared in this in home puppy training session, we filmed a roadmap to success video that you can check out below. Ways to Potty Train a Labradoodle Puppy There are two main schools of thought when it comes to potty training a puppy: Puppy pads But there is also a happy medium, where you combine these when necessary. Which Method is Best? In reality, neither method is better than the other. But, one may be better for you and your lifestyle. When done correctly, both ways, and the happy medium, can create a well trained Labradoodle. But, for others, cleaning up puppy pads inside is no big deal! The end result will be the same — a Labradoodle that goes to the toilet in the right place. Puppy Pad Potty Training Potty training with puppy pads involves covering the floor of the area that your puppy has access to with pads. The floor you need to choose must be easy to clean for this method, like wooden or linoleum. So a kitchen is usually ideal. Then, when your puppy is reliably toileting in this smaller area, you just pop a couple of pads outside the back door. Finally, you will remove them altogether. You must remove the pads gradually for the same reason that you must start off by covering your entire kitchen floor. To reduce the risk of your puppy having an accident on your floor itself! To him, the floor might seem just as suitable as a puppy pad. So, covering the entire floor at first will remove the risk of any accidents on your floor. Removing the pads gradually will help your puppy learn that the pads are the right place, rather than causing any confusion when they suddenly disappear. But the downside is that it takes longer to get your puppy going to the toilet outside. And in the meantime, you have a house that is periodically peed and pooped in. It can also be more confusing for the puppy to transition to doing their business inside, to moving outside. Which can mean the occasional accident. Crate Training Crate training is a great help to many puppy parents, because it helps your puppy learn to pee outside from the very start. A crate also gives your puppy their own cosy and safe space to stay in for short periods of time. The crate must be big enough for the puppy to stand up and turn around in, but not much more. And it should be full of comfy, cosy bedding. When gradually introduced to a crate, with lots of rewards and for very short periods to begin with, a puppy will love their soft bed very much. And because it is where they sleep, they will really not want to pee in there. As long as it is not too big. This means it is a useful place to put your puppy if you want them to wait just a few short more minutes between pees. The rest of the time the pup is out and about in a wipe-clean room with you. If they squat or start sniffing around, take them outside and stay with them to see if they need the bathroom. If they have any accidents, clean them up with a pet safe spray straight away. But hopefully, your schedule and lots of close monitoring will mean that accidents are few and far between. Using the Crate Safely When used properly, a crate can make a great training tool. However, if your crate is too large, your puppy will simply go to the toilet at one end and sleep at the other. The benefit of the crate is that you can easily wash bedding and clean the crate tray if there are any accidents. Labradoodle puppies need lots of mental stimulation, play, engagement, and exercise. But, another great way to do this is simply by picking your puppy up. If they usually pee every 20 minutes, and you want to see if they will last 30 minutes, just pick them up after 20 minutes if they have already spent a lot of time in their crate today. Hold them for 5 or 10 minutes before taking them out for a pee. And remember, you need to introduce the crate gradually at first, to ensure your puppy feels happy and safe inside. So, picking them up will help you a lot in those early days. Combining Crates and Puppy Pads The crate training puppy method requires getting up at 2am for at least a few days, as you will need to continue to offer regular potty breaks through the night. Many puppy parents find this understandably tough. It also means that you can barely remove your attention from the puppy at all during the day for the first few weeks. But, puppy parents are often human parents too. And, you may need to pop out of the house for a few minutes a couple of times a day as a minimum. A great way to deal with these situations is to set up your crate inside a puppy playpen. During the night and when you need to briefly pop out during the day, you leave the crate door open and line the puppy play pen with puppy pads. This means they can relieve themselves if they need to, without risking messing in their bed or on your floor. Schedules for Potty Training a Labradoodle Puppy To give your puppy the best chance of success when crate potty training, you need to give them lots of opportunities to use the bathroom outdoors. These timings are not set in stone, but are a good starting point for each stage. Some owners will find that they need to offer a pee break as often as every 20 minutes. Watch out for the behaviors we talked about above if you think your puppy needs a pee — particularly sniffing in one spot and squatting. Many puppies will start sleeping through the night. Give them lots of opportunities to pee outdoors, including after every meal or big drink from their water bowl. Remove the water at night, but keep it somewhere they can get at it during the day. In those early weeks, they should spend most of their time with you in a room with wipe-clean floors, just in case! Post navigation. However you must teach your puppy all of your expectations, gently and firmly from day one. Decide the rules you want for your puppy, and teach them those rules right from the beginning, such as: not getting on furniture, not jumping up on people. If you allow that in the beginning, it will be very difficult to break the habit. Getting Prepared for A New Puppy! Puppy Chewing The more things you have for your puppy to chew, the less likely they are to chew up your things. The need to chew will go on for at least 18 months, although they may always love having things to chew and toys. You will also need a premium puppy food of your choice. We use an All Life Stages dog food made primarily of chicken and rice. Dogs originally were den animals, they burrowed holes underground, where they were safe from predators and nice and warm. They instinctively do not go to the bathroom in their dens. A crate is a safe haven for your puppy. Never take your puppy out of the crate until they are quiet, just sit patiently, without speaking, until they are quiet for a few seconds, and you will teach them to be quiet in the cage. Every time you take your puppy out of the crate, take them immediately outside to the place you want them to go to the bathroom. Puppies find places to go to the bathroom with their feet. When I take them out to the yard, to grass, rocks or dirt, which ever you prefer , they get used to that feeling on their feet and it becomes part of their potty que or trigger. If you allow your puppy to have accidents on your rugs or hardwood floors even by accident then that can quickly become their potty texture preference. Same goes for potty pads. Using potty pads only teaches your puppy that going potty on absorbent material is Ok. Not a great idea. Try to avoid accidents at all costs. This way, you will teach your dog to go to the bathroom on command. This can be very convenient if you are traveling or leaving the house. Stay away from the puppy until they are done with their business, keep other animals, children and any other distraction away from them. As soon as your puppy is done, immediately give them a dog treat and praise, and praise and praise. Then, stand back and see if there is more forthcoming and repeat the process. Your Puppy At Night. .If your puppy cries in the middle of the night, get up, sit by the cage until they are quiet for a minute or two, then and only then, take them outside to their spot, give the potty command to go, and stand quietly ignoring them until they are done, do not instigate play or talk in an excited voice. When their bladder gets mature, this nighttime potty break should stop. Read my post about how to stop puppy whining and crying in the crate! Then after that every hour for a couple of days, 2 hours for a few days. When they finish going to the bathroom, praise and treats. Never hit or yell harshly at your puppy, or they will be afraid of you, and will develop fear of you, rather than trust. It may take months before your dog is completely housetrained, be patient, it is all worth it! When you feed your puppy, stroke their back and head, and tell them how good they are. You want them to be used to having someone touch them when they eat. When you sit down to eat, ignore the puppy, or put them in the crate. When you have to leave make sure to crate your puppy or put them in a x-pen setup, when you get home, even after a short absence, calmly take your puppy outside, talk gently to them, let them go to the bathroom, take them back inside and talk to them calmly, pet them slowly and try to be as calm as you can. If you come back and get them excited, they will try to recreate that excited feeling when you are gone, because that means you will be home soon. Puppies are like any baby, they need lots of attention, a dog that does not get attention, will get anxious and nervous and may chew and chew furniture, rugs, shoes, cords, anything to get rid of the anxiety. Read my post on crate and x-pen setups for potty training puppies! Taking your Puppy to Class Take your puppy to obedience school. An untrained puppy can be a nuisance instead of a pleasure. Another important benefit, perhaps the most important, is puppies will meet many new people and dogs in puppy class, which will greatly help socialize them, and make them more people and dog friendly. When I take them out to the yard, to grass, rocks or dirt, which ever you prefer , they get used to that feeling on their feet. When they get to your home, your puppy will be used to the surface that you want them to use. This teaches them that talking to you actually works. Going Potty Outside Step by Step — Take your puppy outside on leash, take them to their designated spot, put them down, and give the potty command, stand back without touching them, and wait a bit for them to go to the bathroom. When you know your puppy is done going to the bathroom, praise them, give them a treat or a snuggle and then take them immediately back into the house, unless you are going to play with them outside. Our Main Menu. That was a smart move on your part, because the Doodle is more than just adorably cute; you have a loving and highly intelligent dog who is eager to please and is curious about his or her new environment. What your puppy discovers is up to you, because your Labradoodle will learn whatever you teach it. Those lessons begin the moment it arrives in your home. Put yourself in the place of your puppy. Being anxious makes you nervous, and being nervous makes you. But where? And does it matter? What's in it for You - and Your Doodle? As it turns out, most dog owners say it does matter, a lot. The Labradoodle is a family dog, and as such, needs to live with its family, indoors. That means having a dog that has indoor manners and habits. The Labradoodle has to learn when and where it can go potty. Postponing potty training your Labradoodle will make the process much harder, and it will take longer if you wait to begin instructing your puppy on your expectations. Left untouched, they serve as beacons, or direction finders, to remind your dog to go in this location. Even if you clean it up, you might not be able to remove the scent that draws your pup back to the X that marks the spot. The answer to that question depends on you more than it does on your Labradoodle. Puppies are all about sleeping, waking, eating, playing and pottying. The most difficult part of the potty training process is being ever vigilant. You have to watch your Labradoodle constantly for signs that it needs to go potty. Training yourself to supervise your doodle may be the hardest part of all, but if you know the signs to look for and you have a strategic plan, your Doodle will become a housebroken member of the family, and a pleasure to be around or leave at home without worry that your carpet and floors will become soiled. Training a Labradoodle puppy to use a designated spot to relieve itself is a matter of age and bladder control versus time. Expecting a young pup to hold it for five or six hours sets him up for failure and up for disappointment, if not displeasure. Figure that your pup can hold its bladder and bowels one hour for each month of age, and then add one more hour. A three-month old puppy, for example, should be able to wait to do its business for one to three hours, plus one, or four hours. Your puppy may be able to go longer or need to potty sooner. Rather than wait until the last minute, take your dog out at the three-hour mark. They also have to go outside when they become excited. All training can be divided into one of two categories, regardless of the method used: ignoring or praising. If your Labradoodle has an accident in the house, scoop up the mess and take it outside to the spot you want her to use. After all, no one ever made a fuss about it until now. Dogs have an incredible sense of smell, and the spot in the house they used once will lure them again and again to do their business unless you remove all evidence of the act. On the other hand, praise your pup for pottying in the location you designated. You can give small treats as rewards. Offer tons of praise and a treat, and after 30 days, wean your pup off the treats. The praise will mean much more to your dog. So which method is best? The one that works. The crate recreates the den your puppy grew up in, and no dog wants to soil its own house if it can be helped. As a benefit, the crate also provides a safe break from all the action in the rest of the house, and sometimes your puppy will choose to hang out in the crate. Baby gates work the same way a crate works.

Following the Labrador feeding chart by age will give you a rough idea of how much to feed your puppy. Labradors are known for their playfulness, and sweet disposition, and are good at fetch which is why you should provide them with the best nutrition to support their growth. Ensure that the food contains the right amounts of protein, carbs, fat, and vitamins. You should avoid feeding your Labrador puppy too much food as they are prone to joint issues, but also avoid feeding them less food as they will be malnourished and not reach their growth milestones. Continue reading to understand how much to feed a Labrador puppy. The amount of food that your Labrador puppy should eat depends on a combination of certain factors such as activity level, weight, type, and brand of food. Heavier and bigger puppies need to eat more food than smaller puppies, and dogs that have active lives will need more calories than those living sedentary life. Fortunately, all dog food contains a feeding guideline on the packaging to get you started. It is important that you create and maintain a feeding schedule for your puppy so that they can maintain a healthy weight and develop good habits. Consult your pet nutritionist or vet, to learn more about how much food you should give your specific Labrador. Labrador Feeding Chart By Age A Labrador can be fed between one and six cups of food depending on their level of activity, age, and type of food. The amount will differ from one puppy to the other as every puppy has there own requirements. Therefore, you should follow a feeding guideline that is indicated in the dog food brands or the one designed by your vet. As a Labrador owner, it is important to understand that the nutritional requirements of your puppy are different at each stage as they grow. Therefore, adult and puppy dogs should be trained to eat the correct amount at the right schedule. Ensure that you keep a Labrador puppy feeding chart with you. Calculating the Resting Energy Requirement RER of your puppy and doubling it can help you get the right number of calories to feed them. Feed your puppy a little amount, in the beginning, to ensure that they are ready to eat. If they are not ready, do not force the food on them. Be patient with your puppy and they will be on puppy food soon. The puppy will be relying less on the milk. When your puppy starts eating all the food you offer them, you can reduce the amount of water and increase the food amount. The puppy will start becoming active and start exploring away from the mother as they no longer rely on the mother. By the end of the week into week seven, the puppy will be able to eat just puppy food. Ensure that you feed them dry food that is full of healthy protein. They should be eating three to four times per day and need about 2 cups of food. Avoid free feeding the puppy as it may be hard to know exactly how much they are eating. Create a feeding schedule as early as possible and this will help them develop good habits in the future. Put the food out for only 10 to 15 minutes and take the bowl away if they do not finish. This can be tricky if you are working but it is important that you maintain their feeding schedule as this is a developmental stage. Three meals per day will help your growing puppy develop their digestive system and ensure that they are getting their nutrition. This is also the beginning of the teething stage and they will be biting a lot of things including hard dog food and chew toys. They should eat about two cups of food distributed over three meals. But you should still maintain feeding them two cups of food but can reduce the mealtimes to twice per day. Watch out for the amount of food your puppy eats to avoid them gaining weight. Also, ensure that they are getting enough exercise to burn off the food. So, you should transition them to adult food. Ensure that the switching process is done slowly to avoid causing vomiting and diarrhea to your puppy. Your Labrador can be fed once per day now and the amount reduced to about two cups of food. Understanding Labrador Puppy Nutritional Needs If you stick to feeding your Labrador high-quality food, be assured that they are getting all the necessary nutrients. However, it is useful to know the types of nutrients that they need and the ingredients to watch out for. Carbohydrates — healthy carbs are necessary for providing energy for your puppy. Sources like barley, rice, and oatmeal are great. Healthy carbs can also be found in veggies such as sweet potatoes, peas, and lentils. Fiber — it helps regulate the digestive system of your puppy and helps the stool become healthier and firm. Sources include spinach, chicory root, and beet pulp. Sources include fish oils, fish, canola oils, and fish. Vitamins and Minerals — are needed for improving the immune system which helps in protecting your puppy from diseases. Veggies and real fruits like cranberries and blueberries are great sources. The frequency of feeding your Labrador depends mostly on their age. Puppies need to eat three to four times per day while senior and adult Labradors can eat one to two times per day. Labrador is a breed that is motivated by food, meaning that the chance of them turning down food is low. Given their nature, it can be difficult to figure out whether they are really hungry or just food obsessed. Since they cannot regulate their eating habits, it is important that you develop a feeding schedule to prevent them from gaining weight. Both types of food provide your dog with the best nutrition they need to grow and develop. Also, check the label on the packaging and make sure that it contains the perfect balance of protein, fats, and carbohydrates. Kibble is cheaper than wet foods and stores easily as it does not require refrigeration. It also helps clean the teeth by removing tartar and buildup when your puppy chews it. Wet food also provides balanced and complete nutrition for your Labrador. It provides more hydration to your puppy as it contains high moisture content. However, wet food needs to be put in the fridge once opened otherwise it will go bad. Some dog owners mix wet food and kibble to give their dogs the best of both worlds. Therefore, most premium dog food brands have different specially formulated puppy food. Puppies can be fed with puppy food until they are about 12 to 15 months old then transition to adult dog food. When transitioning your dog from puppy food to adult dog food remember to introduce the feed gradually for about seven to ten days by mixing small amounts of the adult dog food with the puppy food. Decrease the puppy food gradually every day with a simultaneous increase in adult dog food. This will helps the pup o adjust to the new meal easily. Experienced Labrador Retriever owners will tell you that not all puppies eat a lot. Studies also have indicated that puppies eat more when fed with other puppies or in a group. When the puppy gets to a new home, they might go off the food for the first few days. They might eat a few kibbles and then leave it. Your puppy may also prefer to eat from your hand and not the bowl. However, call your vet if your puppy refuses to eat for more than four hours. Call immediately if your puppy looks unwell. There are a few reasons you need to keep an eye on because they indicate serious problems: Your pup neither drink nor eat Diarrhea. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. As we all know too well, what we put in our belly has a huge impact on our health, vitality, length and quality of life. They have to strike a fine balance between getting enough nutrients to grow and avoiding an over-abundance that can lead to abnormal growth and disabling conditions. In this article you will learn precisely how to feed your puppy. What they can eat, what they should not, how many times you should feed them each day, basic information on home-made diets and the pros and cons of various commercial dog foods. The majority of Labrador owners feed their puppy kibble. Kibble is ground meal, shaped into dried biscuit-like pellets that are extremely convenient to buy, store and feed, providing everything a puppy needs in one easy to handle product. All the major brands carry a range of kibble and many are specifically formulated to suit the precise needs of puppies. For our recommendations of the best puppy food for labs, please read our article on: The Best Food for Labrador Puppies. Good breeders will supply you with all the information you need to feed your new puppy and you should follow this advice. Puppies almost always get upset tummies during a change of diet. The stress of moving to a new home is enough to deal with without them potentially having tummy upset on top. So try to avoid this. But expect your puppy to get diarrhea after such a sudden change. What Can Puppies Eat? With a bewildering choice of different puppy foods available, what to feed your puppy may not be the easiest decision to make. You Can Feed Your Puppy Kibble Kibble is ground up food, formed into pellets and dried for easy storage and convenience. It is a specially formulated, complete and balanced diet, containing everything a puppy needs to grow and be healthy. Many people believe kibble is the best way to feed a puppy, with it being so easy to buy, store and feed while containing every nutrient a puppy needs in the right proportions. Wet, Complete Puppy Foods Are An Option As the name suggests, complete wet dog food is complete and balanced, meaning nothing should be fed in combination. Everything needed is included in this one food. Complete wet foods come in individual pouches or tins with one pouch or tin containing one single serving. In the main these foods are low in nutrition, contain a high amount of cheap fillers, by-products and water and need mixing with a biscuit to give them some substance and to make them more complete. Because the food is such low quality, you have to feed a lot of it. And what goes in, must come out. This type of feeding was popular decades ago and I do remember my parents feeding our first dogs this way, but most people have moved on from this and are feeding their dogs in better ways now. Raw Food, BARF And Home-Made Diets Raw feeding is a diet that consists of mostly raw meat, edible bones and animal organs, though most practitioners also mix in small portions of fruit, veg and selected other foodstuffs. There are many people feel strongly that this is the best possible way to feed a dog. But I would caution most people that to feed this diet successfully, you need to do A LOT of research, gain a lot of knowledge and truly understand a dogs nutritional needs to make sure they get exactly what they need in the right amounts. Many people wonder if they can feed their puppy human foods, anything found in the fridge or larder. Furthermore, there are many human foods that are toxic to dogs that you should avoid at all costs. Too much of some nutrients can be bad in itself, but also prevent the absorption and use of other nutrients too. So supplementing a balanced diet is a bad thing to do. Can You Give Puppies Milk? Assuming you get your puppy at the recommended 8 weeks, they will have been fully weaned before you bring them home. Many puppies are intolerant of cows milk and drinking it leads to an upset tummy and diarrhea so you would do best to avoid giving your puppy any milk at all. One exception is for very young puppies under 6 weeks of age. When we have newborn puppies at our house we sometimes need to supplement and use Esbilac Milk Supplemen t. However, if you have a very young puppy that you think may need supplementing please first consult with your veterinarian. Are They Necessary? You will likely be feeding your puppy a commercially available complete and balanced dog food, in which case you certainly should not supplement their food. Supplementing this will mean too much of one or more things, making it unbalanced which can actually lead to harm. But an excess amount of calcium in the diet of a Lab puppy can lead to skeletal development problems. So adding a calcium supplement to an already complete diet can actually do more harm than good. There may also be times your vet advises you to do so. But if feeding raw, you should know more about nutrition than I do. This is a hard question to answer and sadly I cannot give you a definite quantity or weight to feed them each day. Puppies grow at different rates, some are more active than others and there can be large differences between metabolisms too. However… The biggest determining factor is how concentrated the nutrients and calories are in the brand of food you feed them. High quality foods are nutrient rich and give a puppy all they need from quite small amounts of food. But cheaper brands are full of low quality and nutritionally empty fillers that mean a puppy needs considerably more to get what they need. Start by feeding your puppy according to the guidelines on the label of the puppy food you buy for them. Then see how their body develops. Puppies should not be fat! But at the other end of the scale if they start to look and feel a little slim, up their portion sizes a little. The guidelines on the food you buy are just that…guidelines. You might also be interested in:. If your pup has hot spots on their skin, sore spots from excessive licking, or constant ear infections which could be a buildup of yeast , your companion might be suffering from a common food allergy or allergies. Please consult your veterinarian to discuss possible allergies and foods to avoid and foods to eat. The top 5 food allergens for Labradors include Beef Proteins are common allergens. Feeding a single food for years can increase the possibility of your dog developing an intolerance or allergy to that protein. To avoid developing, while a puppy, rotate the base protein that you feed. If you suspect your dog has a protein allergy, you can experiment with a different protein to see if his symptoms get better. It can also lead to skin itchiness. Wheat While dogs are carnivores, most can tolerate grains with no problems. The select few, though, can experience an allergic reaction. For labradors, this might show up as reoccurring ear infections. If you suspect this, please check with your vet or pet nutritionist. Eggs Unfortunately, some dogs cannot tolerate the proteins present in egg yolk. Double-check all the ingredients to avoid, but there are plenty commercially manufactured, dry and wet, foods — and even treats — available to feed your pup. Pecans, Walnuts and Macadamia Nuts These are some of the most poisonous foods for dogs. They can contain tremorgenic mycotoxins, which have the potential to cause tremors and seizures. Almonds, while not toxic, are still dangerous for your lab to eat because they are not easily digested, creating gastric intestinal distress. Salted Foods In general, salt is especially dangerous because it can increase water retention, which is potentially fatal for labs. Chocolate This yummy treat for humans is a big no-no for labradors — and all other dogs as well. Even a tiny bit can cause diarrhea and vomiting, while large amounts could lead to seizures, irregular heartbeat and even death. Garlic As part of the Allium family along with onions, leeks, and chives, garlic can create anemia in dogs, causing an elevated heart rate with the potential for collapsing. If you think your pup has eaten any garlic or onions, monitor him for a few days — this type of poisoning has delayed symptoms. Grapes Grapes and raisins are known to be highly toxic to dogs. Though unsure why, ingesting grapes can lead to sudden kidney failure in dogs, which can be fatal. Dairy is hard for canines to digest. What Human Foods are Safe to Eat? Homemade is the better alternative, as store-bought is generally packed with preservatives. Cashews Unsalted cashews are fine — but only a few at a time. Coconut Coconut is perfectly safe for your furry friend. It can help with bad breath and coconut oil can help clear up skin conditions such as hot spots, flea allergies and itchy skin. Corn Most labs love corn — especially the popped variety. Corn is one of the most common ingredients in dog foods, so it is safe for your labrador to enjoy. Also, while uncommon, some labradors are allergic to corn found in many commercially manufactured dog foods. If your pup has ongoing hot spots and itchy skin, this might be worth asking your veterinarian. Eggs Fully cooked eggs are great for your lab to enjoy — scramble up an extra one or two for breakfast! Fish Fish, especially salmon and sardines, is packed with good fats and healthy amino acids for your pup to enjoy. Be sure to pick out any tiny bones, and fully cook the fish before giving it to your four-legged friend. Shrimp and tuna fit in on the OK list here as well. If feeding canned tuna, a little bit goes a long way, since it contains small amounts of mercury and sodium. Ham Your pup will love ham! It can be high in sodium and fat, so just treat your companion to a little at a time. The source of protein matters when considering a high-quality diet. FATS The rest of the diet should be made up of fats, carbs, and vitamins. Labs need to have a correct protein -to-fat ratio, where protein takes the lead. Dogs tend to convert fat into glucose, so this is an important source of energy. Dogs rely mostly on protein and fats, but carbs are necessary. That said, a low carb diet is best for puppies. However, you still need the right percentage of carbs, since this gives your dog the sensation of being full. These include starches, fibers, and sugars. Try to opt for more complex carbs like starchy grain and veggies because these are easier to digest. Your Lab puppy will thrive when his or her diet includes: Vitamin B12 especially during puppy development , Vitamins A and E, C, Vitamin D, phosphorus, and calcium, Potassium Each of these required vitamins and minerals contributes to a healthy, happy, and energetic puppy. They also help offset issues like obesity. Vitamins A and E are important because they help your dog burn calories and promote eye and skin health. Vitamin D, calcium, and phosphorus, on the other hand, are part of a trifecta that works to strengthen teeth and bones. Potassium is a heart health-preserver. Labs with poor genetics are especially prone to orthopedic issues. Osteoarthritis and hip dysplasia are common health problems for this breed. Glucosamine, an amino-sugar, together with chondroitin sulfate, helps replace and support naturally degrading cartilage during old age. Recently,"grain-free" foods are being championed as a preferred and even high-quality form of dog food. That's, not the whole story. An investigation launched by the FDA revealed that there are potential links between a form of canine heart disease and grain-free foods. So far, researchers have provided an update to this researchers have provided an update to this research staring that the issue may not just be grain-free diets. Grain-free may be part of other trends knows as "BEG"- boutique companies. Puppy diets don't' need to be complicated. They also don't need to include ingredients that humans might enjoy. Enjoyment doesn't necessarily bring any nutritional value to your puppy's development. Keep it simple, using the guidelines for fats, proteins, and carbs above and don't shy away from food with grains in them. It's not their presence that's a problem it's often the ratio. There shouldn't be more carbs or grains than protein. Nor does including only legumes, seeds, lentils, or chickpeas as the primary ingredients make the food more superior. It's perfectly healthy to include complex carb sources like starchy rice and other grains. Grain-free isn't and shouldn't be a qualifying factor for your choice in puppy food. Feeding Your Puppy Kibble Kibble is dried, pelleted food that stores well is easy to eat, and is pre-formulated with everything your puppy needs to thrive and grow in his early developmental months. There are plenty of popular brands that don't measure up to the Snowy Pines standard. That's why it's so vital for you to learn how to read puppy food labels. Puppies should stick with "puppy stage" food, while adults should stick to bags marked "adults. Instead, your dog should have regular bowel movements, allowing them to absorb all the nutrients available. You should also keep in mind that caloric intake is calculated a little differently for puppies. Kibble diets are measured by how many calories the proteins, fats, and carbs represent for each gram. For puppies, this should be 3. Sticking to these ratios will help ensure your kibble choice is a healthy one. It's also important to note that kibble calories are often higher when compared to wet food. If it's high-quality wet food, it won't have as much fat to preserve it, which means fewer calories. You may have to supplement with dry food, especially if you're trying to keep the calories of carbs, proteins, and fats in the right per-gram ratio. How often and what time to feed I will show you the best puppy foods, whether dry, wet, or raw, and look at food safety, together with schedules, quantities and even a handy puppy diet chart. Best Puppy Food for Labs The best Labrador puppy food provides a diet that is nutritious, healthy, and tasty. So, what is the best puppy food for your Lab? Puppy kibble or dried food is the most popular option. Kibble is complete and can give a perfectly balanced diet. Puppy kibble and tinned dog meat combined is another common choice among puppy parents. Feeding your Labrador puppy on home cooked food or on a totally raw diet is also possible. Raw puppy food is growing in popularity, and there are pros and cons to raw feeding your puppy. People often feel very strongly that one way of feeding is better than another, and you can always find evidence to support your view. Dog breeders, veterinarians and even nutritionists have their own strong views. The dire consequences they list for not listening to them can have puppy owners very worried. The truth is that there is no good quality evidence showing that kibble is better for the long term health of your dog, or that raw feeding is better. There are risks and benefits to both, and the main thing is to ensure that your dog has good quality food to eat. Puppy kibble suits some better, and raw puppy food is better for others. Puppy Kibble for your Labrador Puppy food made into pellets is called kibble. An airtight plastic container or tin will do the job, although you should make sure it is food grade quality. Puppy kibble is the best way of feeding your Labrador according to most breeders and your veterinarian is most likely to support this method of feeding. Good puppy kibble will contain every nutrient your Labrador puppy needs in order to grow and remain healthy. The kibble pieces will be tasty, good for keeping teeth healthy, and free from additives that can provoke allergies or stomach problems. Labrador puppy kibble only needs to be fed next to water. Puppy kibble from a reputable manufacturer is intended to be a complete and balanced food. But some owners like to mix in canned dog food or even scraps of raw food with kibble. Your puppy is likely to get an upset stomach or to not have the right balance of nutrition when fed this way. Whether you decide to feed only with kibble or you want to mix it up, pick a good dried food manufacturer and stick with them. Feeding your Labrador puppy raw food has its benefits and drawbacks. One of the downsides is that there is a lot to learn. Here is a link to the articles you need to help you decide whether or not raw feeding is for you: Although I like the raw diet for my dogs, most puppies fed kibble go on to have long and healthy lives. Whatever puppy food you choose, the most important thing is portion control. How Much to Feed your Labrador Puppy? People often tell me how much their puppy weighs, and ask how much puppy food they should give him. Your Labrador is particularly at risk if they grow too quickly. The following diet chart is for kibble fed puppies and does not apply to raw fed pups. It gives you an idea of how much to feed your Labrador puppy Lab Puppy Feeding Chart The Lab puppy feeding chart below is only a very rough guide. The quantity of food you need for your puppy will vary depending on your puppy and on the brand of food you are feeding him. Labrador puppy food must be aimed at medium to large breed dogs. Check the pack carefully and look at the dietary charts. Ideally, you want the optimal protein content and the lowest amount of additives. Part of this always comes down to the cost. The healthiest puppy food is usually the most expensive and may not be affordable for some families. The Cost Of Puppy Food Some puppy food brands are more concentrated than and contain a higher proportion of proteins, essential oils, and other nutrients. The absence of these fillers means that you can often feed lower quantities of more costly food, making them less expensive than they first seem. You might also find that cheaper brands make your puppy poop more due to those extra fillers going straight through him. While some brands are beyond the budget of many families, it is usually good to buy a premium brand. High Quality Brands of Puppy Food Some brands of puppy food have developed a reputation for producing a high quality product and have many devoted supporters, including breeders that have fed them to generations of puppies. The best food for Labrador puppies to consume in their first two to four months of life is milk from their mother. This specialised care is usually left to trained breeders or veterinarians, who are knowledgeable in caring for pups with no mother to nurse from. If you have recently brought a Labrador puppy into your family, they are most likely older than 8 weeks, and so have started to eat solid foods. You can do this by mixing some dry food with specially formulated puppy milk to form a soft mixture. You can feed your puppy this mixture three to four times a day. Over time, you can reduce the amount of milk you include in this mixture, until they are at the point where they are happily eating dry foods. Read on to learn how much you should feed a Labrador puppy as they get older. In their four months living with you, and once they are weaned off milk, Labradors are likely to reach almost half their adult weight. They will reach their full adult weight by the time they are 6 to 7 months old. With this rapid growth can come some risks. Labradors can be susceptible to bone growth disorders, like hip dysplasia and joint abnormalities that can start in puppyhood. Once your Lab puppy hits 6 months, their growth begins to slow down. Once puppyhood is over, you can move to feeding your lab twice a day instead of 3 or 4 times. Labs are still very active in their adolescent years, and so should be fed with this in mind. The transition from puppy food to adult food should happen at around 15 months. This is because, being a breed who grows very quickly, you want to ensure that you are feeding them according to their large breed needs. You need to take special care when considering what you should feed your Labrador puppy, as they require different nutrients compared to their adult counterparts. It is also dangerous for a puppy to overeat. Labradors are large breeds, which means they need plenty of nutrients and calories as they grow to ensure they go from being active puppies to healthy adult dogs. Labrador puppies need to eat food that is high in proteins and fats. Carbohydrates are also essential for supporting your active pup. Aside from nutritionally complete dry puppy food, Labrador puppies can benefit from the extra protein that raw meat can provide them with, such as lean beef, turkey, chicken, or fish. The amount of food you give your Labrador is determined by their weight, energy levels, and age. For most adult Labradors, around 1, to 2, calories per day from high quality food sources is ideal. Female Labradors, who tend to be around 5 to 10 kilos lighter than males, may need less food, as will less active dogs. Dogs who need less food, whether they are less active or simply older, will usually still need around 1, to 1, calories per day. You may want to alter the amount of food you are feeding your Labrador based on how calorically dense their food is. Adult Labradors should be fed twice a day, once in the morning and once in the evening. Their daily allotment of food should be split evenly between these two meals. For most dogs, it is recommended that you exercise your dog before meal times to assist with potty training. However, some dogs may benefit from exercise after eating: especially high energy Labs with a lot of energy to burn off. You should also try to give your Labrador a high quality food that is specially designed for large breeds, especially if they are very active. For example, less active senior dogs will need to eat less food as they will not be burning calories as quickly as a lively little puppy will. Senior dogs may benefit from a higher fibre and lower calorie diet. Your dog may also develop chronic or short term medical conditions that require specially formulated food. For example, Labradors can be particularly susceptible to obesity. As a breed, they tend to be one of the most commonly obese dogs in Australia. This is due to several factors, including a genetic predisposition to unhealthy weight gain and a famously large appetite. However, plenty of Labs suffering from obesity are simply overfed and not getting enough exercise. Choosing a low carb diet is crucial to preventing obesity in your Labrador. If you are unsure about what you should feed your Labrador, you should always consult your vet. They will be able to determine if your dog is suffering from any chronic health issues, and they will be able to create a nutritional plan to help keep your dog healthy and happy for many years to come. Wet food for Labradors is often high in protein and fat, and is better at keeping your dog hydrated than other food sources. Chewing on dry food can be especially good for teething Labrador puppies. A raw diet can be a good option for your Labrador as you have more control over the kinds of food and amount of nutrients your pup is consuming. For this reason, raw diets require a lot more work on your part as an owner. Whatever you decide to feed your Labrador, all dogs need a similar ratio of nutrients in their diets. Different dog breeds will need different kinds of nutrient support as they go through the various stages of their life. It can also be easy to overestimate the amount of food your Labrador needs to stay fit and healthy — especially if they are skilled at begging! You need to make sure that your dog is eating the right amount of food for their breed, their size, and activity level. You should also avoid foods that, while delicious for humans, can be harmful or toxic for dogs. Foods like onions, nuts, alcohol, cooked bones, and artificial sweeteners are commonly included in dinners meant for humans, but can cause serious health issues for your Labrador. No matter how old your Lab is, it is important to keep to a consistent feeding schedule. A feeding schedule can help you keep track of any changes in behaviour around food that might signal illness or physiological stress. Made with real meat and no artificial colors or flavors how much should a lab eat? Allergies Labs can also have allergies. Some dogs may be allergic to wheat, macadamia nuts, etc. It can manifest as a runny nose, high volumes of shedding, rashes on the skin, and so on. Different dietary needs are crucial, especially if they display allergy symptoms. Avoid all types of human foods. You can give your lab puppy supplements You can get great quality adult dog food and puppy kibble from companies like Royal Canin Labrador Retriever, Blue Buffalo, Canidae Grain-Free, etc. Only adult food must be given to labrador retrievers who have crossed 1. Your puppy needs 4 small meals consisting of half a cup of food per meal till he is 2 months old. From 2 to 6 months, he needs 3 meals daily consisting of 1 cup of food per meal. From 6 months onwards , you can give your puppy 2 meals daily of 2 cups of dog food per meal. Is This A Problem? Yes, this is a major problem! Fat dogs are adorable but also extremely unhealthy. An adult labrador retriever should weigh at most pounds. Labs that are fatter than this stand at the risk of obesity, arthritis , and other lifelong diseases. Refrain from feeding your labrador too many dog treats. Onions and garlic: surprisingly, anything in the onion and garlic family is incredibly toxic to dogs. Meat with bones: if not chewed properly, sharp edges can rupture the throat, stomach lining, intestines, and other parts of the digestive tract. Other human foods and beverages to avoid giving your dog are alcohol, sugar, citric fruits, and anything with caffeine. Your labrador retriever should weigh between 55 to 70 pounds at full adulthood. Male labs are heavier than female labs, so they can fall on either side of the optimal weight spectrum. Some healthy treats for your labrador retriever are cut fruits and vegetables. Carrots, celery, cucumber, beetroot, apples, bananas, and berries strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, cranberries, etc. Dogs also love peanut butter! Veggies dipped in peanut butter also make a great snack for your dog. This is entirely up to you as dog owners. If you have the time and patience to cook meals for your dog, go for it. Store-bought food is easier and is filled with the right nutritional requirements for your lab puppy. On the other hand, with the right recipe, home-cooked food works, too. What Should I Do? A dog growling at you when you go near his food bowl is most commonly a trauma response or a way to protect his food. We often see this with rescues. House training your lab puppy is equally important to avoid food aggression. Labrador Retrievers get piddly after their meals. Dog owners must take out their lab puppy as frequently as they eat sometimes even more often to let their energy out and adult labradors less frequently. A lab puppy needs a ton of exercise. The amount of kibble you should feed your Labrador puppy will vary depending on their age, weight, and activity level. A good rule of thumb is to start with cups of kibble daily and adjust as needed. Best Dog Food For Lab Puppies: The best dog foods for lab puppies include those that are high in protein and low in fillers. The food you should feed a black lab puppy is the same as for any other Labrador puppy. A chocolate lab puppy should be fed the same food as for any other Labrador puppy. A 2-year-old chocolate lab should eat about cups of kibble daily. You should stop feeding puppy food to your Labrador at around months of age. At this point, their growth plates will have closed, and they will no longer need the extra nutrients found in puppy food. Labradors live for years. They start to slow down around 7 and may develop some health problems in their senior years. You should also increase their exercise level. Lab breeders feed their dogs high-quality dog food specifically formulated for large-breed puppies. A lab puppy should drink about 1 ounce of water per pound of body weight daily. This amount may increase as they get older and more active. A labrador needs at least 30 minutes of exercise per day. This can be a combination of walking, running, and playing. Golden labs live for years. Chocolate labs live for years same like labs of any color. Labradors lose their baby teeth between 3 and 6 months of age. You can start to transition your puppy to eating twice a day at around 6 months of age. By the time they are 1 year old, they should eat only once daily. You should stop feeding your large breed puppy food at around 18 months of age. Why Are Labs So Hungry? Labradors are a very active breed of dog, and they need a lot of calories to fuel their energy levels. They are also prone to gaining weight, so keep a close eye on their food intake About The Author Shradha Kabra Shradha is a seasoned writer at Labradorandyou. Her experience as a pet owner and dog enthusiast drives her to create meticulously researched and fact-checked content, offering valuable insights on Labrador training, grooming, and health. Each article reflects Shradha's passion and dedication, enriched by personal experiences with her beloved Labradors, Tom, and Kurt. Whether exploring breed-specific training techniques or providing product reviews, Shradha ensures Labrador owners receive the most accurate, up-to-date, and trustworthy information, aimed at enhancing their companions' health and happiness.