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Check out our other picks for best quality and value wire dog crates. Wire dog crates are possibly the most used, the most commonly seen and generally speaking what people think of when you mention a dog crate. They come with a single door as standard, but some models have multiple doors side and roof for greater access. Advantages of Wire Crates: Very easy to keep clean. Allows the greatest airflow of all crate styles which is particularly nice in hotter climates. Many models fold flat for portability. Can come with divider panels for adjusting the crate size to suit a growing puppy. Most models have a slide out tray for ease of cleaning. Disadvantages of Wire Crates For some dogs, instead of comforting them being able to look around and see the family, the visibility can cause whining and stress. Some dogs are best covered over…but you can of course cover a wire crate. Can feel exposed, offering little shelter in colder climates. They may be collapsible for portability, but they can also be quite heavy! The noisiest of crates when dogs move around a lot. The easiest of crates to escape from for determined and intelligent dogs. Plastic Dog Crates Check out our picks of the best plastic travel crates. Plastic dog crates are the most often used for travel, particularly air travel. Advantages of Plastic Crates Lighter and hence more portable than wire, metal ones. Bottom of crate can sometimes be used as an open dog bed if the crate is no longer wanted. More sheltered, offering better insulation in colder climates Better for those that whine and cry if they can see activity and want to be a part of it. Less visibility better for easily distracted dogs and a greater feeling of security for a dog. More difficult than most wire crates for escape artists to get out of. Disadvantages of Plastic Crates Enclosed nature can stress some dogs who prefer visibility of their surroundings cure this with crate training! Harder to clean and therefore harder to keep fresh, and plastic can hold odors over time that become hard to eliminate. Cannot fold flat so need more storage space than wire crates. Reduced ventilation can cause overheating in places with a hot climate. Not very attractive, although people have different tastes. Way more practical for travelling types too, as can be folded flat and and weigh next to nothing, making them a highly portable option. Advantages of Soft-Sided Crates Extremely light and portable, most coming with a carry bag. Extremely easy to store when not being used and folded. Soft and flexible, they are more comfortable for the dog inside compared to most crates Great to use when out camping due to being extremely easy to put up and take down. Disadvantages of Soft-Sided Crates Not the most durable and long-lasting. Destructive dogs can literally claw and chew their way out, destroying the crate in the process. Some dogs can learn how to unzip and open the doors. Stylish Dog Crates Check out our list of of high quality, stylish, wooden furniture style crates. There are many styles of crate to suit those people who simply cannot stand the look of a wire or plastic one in their home, or are looking for something a little more stylish. There are crates made from rattan or a variety of finished wood crates available. Advantages of Wooden Crates Can more easily fit into the look of a home and its decor. Can double up as a shelf or end table to offer a usable surface. Huge number of styles available. Disadvantages of Wooden Crates Not good for destructive dogs who can really damage wooden crates. Not good for the house training process as any accidents will leave stains, possibly hard to remove odors and be hard to clean thoroughly. Expensive when compared to the others! In my opinion, until your dog is house trained and completely over their destructive chewing stage, the most practical crate is without doubt a collapsible wire type dog crate. You can see our pick of the best collapsible wire crates available by clicking here. Compared to other styles, a wire crate is by far the easiest to clean if there are any accidents, are highly durable and is the only one that cannot be damaged by the scratching and chewing of a destructive dog…and many Labradors love to scratch and chew! Recommended Crates By Us! With so many crates available to choose from, making the right choice is no easy task. These are the most popular crates with the highest feedback and most satisfied customers you can find. Quality and value proven by the feedback from many, many previous buyers: My Top Recommendation For US Readers: Midwest Life Stages Dog Crate This is — in my opinion — the best value for money crate available and with extremely good customer feedback to be found all over the web, many would agree. With a divider included free of charge, this single crate bought for a new puppy can be resized to provide increasing room and still fit them as an adult. This is one crate you should definitely shortlist and compare to any others you may be considering. They have a huge amount of extremely good customer feedback and receive high ratings from previous buyers everywhere they are for sale on the web. It would be extremely hard to better value in the UK for the money, so is definitely one to consider! But if you have a puppy, buy a crate for the size of adult dog they will grow to become and use a divider to reduce the size of this larger crate to suit them. For Labrador Retrievers this will be a 36 or inch crate. A stainless steel wire crate is the most practical and best value choice for a number of reasons as detailed above. But for transporting in a car or by air, a plastic crate would be the best choice. If you can afford to, I would suggest a permanent metal wire one for the home and a plastic one for travel. For those that would like to preserve an overall look to their house there are many stylish finished wood crates available and I think these can really look good in some houses. More information: This was part 4 in an 8-part series that details everything you need to know about the use of a crate and crate training your puppy. The information applies equally well to dogs of all breeds and not just Labradors. The Entire series is linked to here:. Print Crate training your Lab puppy, why you should and a guide on how Labrador puppies are so cute and cuddly, it almost seems wrong to put them in a crate. But crate training is one of the best things you can do for your new puppy and for yourself. There are many benefits to crate training your retriever puppy, but it is a process. Learn how to properly crate train a Labrador puppy and why you should start crate training as soon as possible. Why should I crate train my Labrador? While some people think putting a dog in a crate is cruel, experts disagree. Most veterinarians, trainers, and breeders recommend crate training dogs from a young age. Dogs are den animals and often feel most safe when they are in a tight, confined area. A crate can represent this den-like experience for your puppy and give them a place to retreat when they feel stressed, confused, or just need some time alone. Dogs that are crate trained properly do not fear the crate, in fact, they love it and will often seek it out for a nap. Easy and safe transport Crates are the safest way to transport dogs. A dog contained in a crate cannot move around within your vehicle, get in your way while driving or create distractions. In addition, you can buy crates that are 5-star crash tested , possibly giving your dog superior protection if you are involved in an accident. Crates help with housebreaking As discussed in our post on housebreaking your Labrador puppy , crate training can make housebreaking easier and quicker. Crates allow you, as owner, some off-time — time when you do not have to be constantly watching your puppy for potty accidents. In addition, crates help encourage your puppy to hold it, to wait a little longer before going potty, since most puppies hate to mess their bed. Note: My husband and I are professional retriever trainers, so any products listed here are items we use on an almost daily basis. We only recommend products we know are good quality and will stand the test of time. When possible, I include links to the product. Some of these links may be affiliate links in which I am paid a small commission, but all opinions and recommendations are my own. Learn more. Can help hunting dogs with blind manners and patience Hunting dogs often need to sit still and quiet for hours on end. Sometime in dog huts or MoMarsh stands. Crates can help hunting dogs by teaching them there is a place that they should simply lay down, rest and keep quiet. Better dog to family relationships and more control Crate training your puppy can provide many benefits for your entire family. Crate training your puppy at a young age means that when you need to put them in a crate they will go in willingly and without a fight. As professional retriever trainers, we crate train all the puppies we raise as custom trained dogs. We also crate train all our own dogs. We find that it makes for a better adjusted puppy all around. Choosing the right crate for crate training Lab puppy Getting ready to crate train your puppy means you need to buy a crate. And the size and type of crate do matter. Size of crate for crate training retrievers You want the crate to be large enough that your puppy is comfortable laying in the crate, but not so big that your puppy can walk around. The puppy should feel snug and protected, but not uncomfortable. The unfortunate thing about crate training this way, is that it means that as your puppy grows, you will need progressively larger crates. While inconvenient and bit more costly, this really is the best way to crate train your puppy. But if you do not wish to buy multiple crates, there are other methods. Some people buy a large crate, the size their dog will need as an adult and then section off some of the crate. Blocking off a portion of the crate will give the puppy that tighter, den-like, experience and ensure that the puppy cannot walk around inside the crate. While this can work, be careful what you use to section the crate off. You would not want to use a material that can be chewed or ingested by your puppy. Puppies are naturally chewers, so keep this in mind. Type of crate for crate training retriever Technically, any kind of crate will work for crate training. But over the years we have found that some crates just simply work better. Plastic crates seem to be the best option. They can be found easily at a local pet store, superstore, or even bought online. There are some inexpensive options that provide the protection and privacy of a den-like experience for the dogs. In addition, they have a solid bottom so should your dog get sick, or if you are in the process of housebreaking, cleanup is rather easy. Wire crates , the kind that you can see right through do not seem to work as well as plastic crates. Wire crates are wide open, they do not provide dogs the opportunity to get away and relax. The wire offers little protection and privacy, and many dogs do not like them as dens. We discuss crate options in more detail here. How to crate train a Lab puppy? Crate training is easiest when done with young puppies. We recommend starting crate training the day you bring the pup home from the breeder. Often this is at around weeks old. The sooner you start, the easier the process will be. Crate training can be done with older dogs, but it may take more effort and patience on your part. Step 1 — Let puppy explore the crate The first step is to place the crate in an area that is frequented by the puppy. Prop the door open in some way, a small bungee works well and let your puppy explore the crate on his own. Puppies are naturally curious, so often they will walk right into the crate on their own. It is best if you do not move the crate around the house. Instead, find a place for the crate where the dog will spend a majority of their time and leave it there. The crate should not be right next to a bed or a bedroom. Your puppy will be sleeping in their crate and your puppy will make more noise and wake up more if the crate is close to you. Also, your puppy is bound to make some noise the first few nights in the crate. Step 2- Establish a routine Develop a routine of putting your puppy down to nap inside the crate. You can put one or two small toys in the crate if you wish and a small towel that you do not care if it gets ruined. I know this sounds self-explanatory, but I have seen it. Also, do not put a dog bed in the crate. A dog bed is too big and bulky to fit into crates well and your puppy will simply chew it to pieces or accidently have a potty accident on it. Once that happens, the bed will have the scent of potty and will work against your housebreaking efforts. That is natural and nothing to be worried about. Simply walk away from the crate and allow the puppy to settle down. Depending on the nature of your puppy this may take a few minutes to an hour or more. It is vital that you stay away from the crate during this time. If you follow this advice, your puppy will quickly learn to be content in the crate and over time the noise will become less and less until they finally understand they must stay in the crate. Step 3 — Watch the clock While I suggest you do not take your puppy out of the crate while they are making noise, you do need to keep an eye on how long your puppy has been in the crate. You do not want your puppy to have an accident in the crate if you can help it. With week old puppies, I start by leaving the puppy in the crate for 1 hour at a time followed by playtime. As the puppy gets older, they can naturally hold their bladder longer. This should go without saying, but you should never leave your dog in a crate 24 hours a day every day. Socialization of young puppies is vital. Block the crate door open again. The door should be blocked open anytime the puppy has not been placed in the crate for some quiet time. The puppy will see or smell the toys and go inside the crate to get them. Some people play crate games. They will throw a toy inside the crate so that the puppy must go inside the crate to retrieve it. These games can help your dog become extremely comfortable with their crate. Over time you will notice that your puppy is not afraid to go inside their crate while the door is open. Sometimes, they will even go inside the crate and lay down when they are tired. This is the reaction you are seeking. How long does it take to crate train a dog? There is no set amount of time it takes to crate train a dog. Each dog will progress on their own schedule. But if you continue to place your puppy inside the crate on a routine basis and make the crate available to your puppy at all times, you will reap the benefits of having successfully crate trained your puppy. Final thoughts on how to crate train a Labrador puppy Crate training is a greatly beneficial thing for Labrador puppies and other retriever breeds. It can mimic a den for these beautiful animals and give them a safe and secure place where they can rest without stress or fear. This helps them with emotional stability and can curb behavior issues. It also makes for a more enjoyable home life with less dog induced strife. How to crate train a Labrador puppy. But how do you crate-train a Labrador? To crate train a Labrador puppy, slowly introduce him by tossing a treat inside and letting him investigate the crate voluntarily. Only do it for a few seconds when you first close the door. Make this a fun game during the first few days and gradually increase to a few minutes. The idea is that the puppy learns to associate the crate with a positive experience, such as a treat. To learn tons more on crate training, check out my step-by-step guide, Easy Labrador Puppy Crate Training. A Labrador puppy can generally hold its bladder for 1 hour for every month of age, up to a maximum of 3 hours at 6 months old, and increasing to hours as a fully grown adult. However, young puppies should be allowed to relieve themselves every hour for fewer accidents. Exactly how long a Lab can hold its pee as they grow up depends on many factors such as age, health, diet, and size of the dog. However, the basic principle still applies to house-trained adult dogs, who should be allowed outside to pee at least times during the day. Remember, always exercise your Labrador and allow him to go to the toilet before leaving him in his crate. Health Issues of Over-crating a Dog Being crated for extended periods can lead to mental and physical health issues for your dog. Here are a few significant consequences of leaving your Labrador in a crate for too long: Separation anxiety is a miserable condition that some dogs have to deal with. Labradors are extremely friendly and social, and when left unattended for several hours, especially in a crate, they begin to get anxious and distressed. Hip and elbow dysplasia is a disease prevalent in Labradors. If your adult dog is crated for hours during the day, it cannot stretch out and move around sufficiently. Restlessness during the evening is a common issue when owners over-crate their dogs. Excessive amounts of pent-up energy might occur when your Lab is supposed to be tired or winding down for the night; even if you have taken him for his evening walk, this may not be adequate. Labradors left in their cage for too long can develop obesity. Without enough exercise and mental stimulation throughout the day, Labradors can quickly become unhealthy. Labs need open running space and at least two minutes of exercise per day, including lots of playtimes. According to a recent study, keeping dogs kennelled and isolated from humans can cause extreme stress. Despite being adequately stimulated during the day, these police dogs showed signs of mental illness after being kennelled after work. Labradors are a medium-large dog breed so it should be no surprise that they need a large crate. Labradors need a size inch crate which provides enough space for your Lab to comfortably move around and lie on his side with paws outstretched. Choose a metal crate and preferably a heavy-duty one with safe and secure slide-bolt latches. Most metal crates will fold flat, making them easily transportable. You can opt for either a single or double door or both, providing options depending on how you wish to position the crate in your home. I like the Midwest Homes for Pets icrate from Amazon as it has everything you need, including a divider panel and a wipe-clean removable tray. But if you want some other excellent alternatives, check out this article, The 8 Best Dog Crates for Labradors and Playpens. Nonetheless, a crate on its own will not just turn into a haven for your dog and keep him entertained. A suitable crate pad is essential to keep your Lab cozy and comfortable. I love the Big Barker crate pad. Plenty of toys. Provide your Lab with various exciting chew and interactive toys to keep him busy and entertained. KONG toys are ideal for Labs and will relieve boredom, and you can even stuff treats inside them to keep your dog happy. Food and water. It can be difficult to prevent your Lab from messing with their food and water bowls in a crate, but there is a solution! Purchase clip-on bowls that hang onto the side of the crate. These hold firmly in place, preventing anything from being knocked over. A blanket to cover the crate. This makes the crate feel more like a den and can help your Labrador feel more secure. It also prevented her from being distracted by outside noises, such as children playing. Crates can help your puppy settle on his first night in his new environment, but how long can you leave a dog in a crate at night? Labradors can be left in a crate at night for hours once they fully control their bladder and bowels, generally after months. Before this, they may need a potty break overnight. Owners of young puppies like to place the crate near their bedroom for this very reason. Some puppy owners will also have a second crate as it can be a pain having to move it around at night. These gates allow you to decide how much space your puppy can have to move around in your home by sectioning off various off-limit areas. You can find a large selection of dog gates on Amazon, and there are many different styles to match your decor. Dog playpens. Puppy playpens are perfect for young Labradors who need more room. Some of these can even be connected to a crate to make a cool combination of a cozy resting space and room to roam. You can even use some outside. Train your Lab to stay outside. Some owners prefer to leave their Labradors outside. This is okay as long as they have been trained to stay out from an early age. You need to provide food, water, and shelter, such as a dog house, especially in colder climates. You can slowly train your Labrador to roam free throughout the house no matter which method you choose. However, this process takes time. You can start by initially leaving the crate door open when you go out or gradually increasing the size of their gated area until it fits the size of a room. Once your Lab is used to the freedom, you can open the house up for them. My dog was 12 months old before I started leaving her crate door open and two years old before she was allowed free reign of the house. You can get cheaper dog cameras, but I love how you can toss treats out to your dog, all controlled remotely from your smartphone! If you are out at work all day, here are some other solutions you can consider. The crate should be at least a size 42 inches. Labs grow into big dogs! They require plenty of room to stretch out and turn around. In the meantime, use a crate divider. My dog adored her crate. She loved to go and chill out if she wanted to rest or needed some peace away from me! In fact, some dogs love their crate so much they never outgrow them! Related Posts You May Like:. Material This is a polyester product, which is great for moving Labrador puppies. In theory, you can use this crate even as a dog home as long as your puppy is young, but that would make it harder for your Labrador to accept a metal crate later on. The harder potions of this crate are made of PVC, which is sturdier than polyester but is a nightmare to clean. Other Features While the product will last a much shorter while than its metal counterparts, it does present its own advantages. The key features include the breathability of polyester, lack of stimuli, and a fleece pet bed. It is pretty easy to carry and comes with a strap to help manage this. Convenience With this product, the convenience is dictated entirely by how well-trained your dog is. This travel crate defies that principle and presents a spacious way of housing your Labrador on your travels. Material This crate incorporates both metal and plastic, which is great for travel but inconvenient for home use. Opaque plastic on the side reduces this stimulation, while the metal wire window keeps your dog from feeling claustrophobic. The crate dimensions stand at 48 inches x 32 inches x 35 inches, comparable and even more spacious than many metal options. Instead, you should compare it to other portable options. The plastic sides are better than polyester panels commonly used in travel crates. The metal wire window alongside the ventilation holes at the back allows air to circulate properly. It features metal bars and a wooden roof, panels, and flooring. Material The product features wood which can be a concerning aspect because of the rivalry between dogs and wooden posts. However, this is plastic wood and is not as scratchable. According to the manufacturer, the wood is non-toxic and recycled. The stainless steel bars are obviously strong enough to make sure the crate boundaries are actual boundaries and not suggestions like they are with travel crates. Size The crate is .With a .Other Features The only prominent feature is the style and aesthetic appeal of this crate. While most crates look like jailhouses, this one looks like a luxurious house arrest destination. It comes in black, white, grey, espresso, and russet colors, of which I only knew three. Espresso is a fancy way of saying brownish-grey and russet, reddish-brown. This variety allows you to pick the crate that complements your furniture. Convenience Despite looking like a complicated piece of carpentry, the crate is easy to assemble and requires no tools. It also doubles as furniture making it more convenient for you to make room for the crate, especially if you live in a studio apartment. All in all, I love the look of this crate and the great choice of colors which will fit any decor. You can also use it as an effective time-out during training. Material The playpen is made of materials not disclosed by manufacturers, but I can convey it best by describing the feel. The exterior of this water-proof playpen feels like canvas, while the bottom feels like the outside of a tent. The material is sturdy but is no match to plastic or metal. Size This is one of the most spacious items on this post because it serves a different purpose. It is not meant to be the sleeping place of a dog or a traveling carry-case. It gives an inspiring environment for your Labrador and spans 61 inches in length and breadth across its octagonal shape and 30 inches in height. Other Features and Convenience The product comes with a carry mechanism that makes it look like a large laptop bag and features outer pockets and even a water bottle holder. Best Metal Playpen MidWest Homes for Pets Foldable Metal Playpen Click HERE to check the latest price on Amazon This product brings together the spaciousness of the previous option with the sturdiness of the first item in this post, making the perfect environment for your Labrador to relax or play within a relatively confined space. I love this idea as it gives your Lab loads more room whilst keeping him in a safe environment and allowing a positive experience. Material This playpen features metal wire panels and has an open top and bottom. In other words, the flooring could be grass or carpet, depending on the place where you assemble the playpen. Size Each panel is 24 inches wide, and there are eight panels. You can determine the width of the playpen by assembling the panels closely or even attaching extra panels. Convenience The most convenient thing about this playpen is that it takes your hands off of babysitting your dog. This also is the thing you must be most concerned about because leaving your Lab in his playpen for extended periods might make it easier for you to slack off on your responsibility to socialize with your best friend, take him out on walks, and play with him. Labradors need a inch-size crate, so their size is well-accommodated in it. The crate should also be 27 inches tall at minimum, so the dog can safely stand without hitting his head and 28 inches wide so that he can move around, lie on his side, and comfortably stretch out his paws. The best crate size for a Labrador puppy is 42 inches. A wire crate with a divider is perfect as you can start your pup off in a small enough space by setting the divider a few inches away from his full length and continue to adjust as the dog grows. This also speeds up potty training. Which Crate Should I Pick? Labradors are very social and strong enough to rip apart delicate boundaries that cordon them off from their favorite pastime: playing with people. Related Posts You May Like:. Measure from the tip of his nose to the base of his tail. From these measurements, you can determine whether your pup will be able to lie down and stretch out fully in his crate. You need to be sure that your pup has enough room to sit and stand comfortably in his crate. Add two to four extra inches to your final figures to find the ideal crate length and height. Instead, buy a kennel that will fit an adult-size Labrador. He will probably make a bed at one end and use the other end as his toilet. An adult purebred Labrador will need a crate that is a maximum of 42 inches long. Most modern dog crates are fitted with two doors. Metal crates tend to be the most popular material. They fold flat for easy transportation and storage. The crate has a single door and comes in inch, inch, inch and inch sizes to accommodate the largest of Labs. The crate comes with a divider included, has a sturdy plastic tray, roller feet to protect wooden floors and also has a carrying handle. The door of the crate has two heavy-duty slide bolt latches to keep the door securely fastened with your dog safe inside. This crate comes in a range of sizes up to 42 inches. It is designed to accommodate dogs up to 70 pounds, making this a perfect dog crate size for a Labrador. This fabric dog crate is perfect for indoor and outdoor use. The collapsible crate can be set up in seconds. The crate is designed for indoor use only and doubles as an end or side table. The crate comes with a plastic tray that slides out for easy cleaning. The crate is suitable for large dogs up to 88 pounds and comes in brown or dark brown. The cover is made from high-quality, durable D mesh fabric, creating a strong, stylish, lightweight crate. The crate can be folded flat for easy transport in the free carrying bag. A convenient handle and hand-carry strap are also included. The crate comes with a cozy fleece lining included. There are three mesh doors for convenience and to allow breathability. Two accessory pockets are incorporated into the design. The whole thing, including the bedding material, is fully washable. If you wanted a Labrador crate to blend with your home, stylish wooden crates that look like smart pieces of furniture are also available. The robust, plastic crate comes in four funky pearlescent colors too. I can personally vouch for the superior quality of this kennel, as I have one myself. The other door is sited at the front of the crate. It fastens with a secure, simple-to-operate, squeeze-together mechanism that can be operated with just one hand. The kennel has ventilation openings on all sides. This US made crate is air travel approved and meets airline cargo specifications. Separate air travel kits are available if required. However, we selected them for inclusion independently, and all of the views expressed in this article are our own. From potty training to behavioral training , a new dog owner has a ton of responsibilities—sometimes more than they can keep up with. Crate training benefits both you and your dog in significant ways. There are more dog crates for sale than you can count, and they come in all different shapes and sizes. Here are some of the top benefits of crate training your lab: Benefit 1. Dog Crates are Cozy and Relaxing Labs love their crate because they offer a safe place to rest, relax, and sleep. Image Source Some labs feel so attached to their crates, they may choose to eat their food inside or halfway in and out. For you, this can also reduce the stress of dealing with anxious dogs. Benefit 2. So here is one of the best training tips: crate your lab puppies to help them become house trained. A crate can help a puppy remain within a smaller area. Benefit 3. Essentially, having labs feel comfortable in their crate gives you options when it comes to transportation, house training, calming a stressed dog, and so much more. Buy an Adult Crate and Section It Off Crate size is really important because adult labs need to be able to get into the crate and turn around. There should be enough space for them to do this, but no more. This is also why a divider can give labs the right fit and adapt to their growth. Besides these tips, all you need to figure out is the size of your lab. Your lab might be taller when sitting upright than he is standing on all fours, so have your dog sit on its behind and look up towards you. Four Types of the Best Dog Crates In addition to different dog crate sizes, you can choose different builds that might suit your lab depending on their age and rambunctious nature. Image Source Type 1. Wire Crate Wire dog crates are the most popular type of dog crate and their construction makes them quite durable. The wire design allows for air to circulate around your pet, which can help cut down on odors. They also allow for handy slide-bolt latches that let you quickly open and close the crate while keeping it secured. Wire dog crates are best for a puppy that is extremely active. The wire construction allows your dog to look out of the crate and see what is going on around him. This is best for dogs that like to be able to see what is going on. Type 2. Plastic Crate The main advantage of plastic dog crates is the fact that they are lighter than metal wire ones. This makes them very portable and easy to move around. You can move them from one part of the house to another depending on where you want the dog to sleep. Plastic crates are often made of high-quality polyurethane, which makes them easy to clean and sanitize. This usually means buying plastic products with a carry handle. Many plastic dog crates have a divider panel, which can be taken out to enlarge the crate and create more room for a growing pup or adult dog. One of the advantages of using plastic dog crates is that they can be used for several different purposes. For example, the bottom of the crate can be used as an open dog bed if the crate is no longer wanted. Type 3. Type 4. Wooden Dog Crate Wooden crates are a great way to get the functionality of a metal crate, but with the luxury appeal of nice wooden furniture. Of course, this is also a much more eco-friendly material than metal. Wood is porous and absorbs urine which means that if your dog has an accident while in the crate, the pee will soak into the wood and leave a stain. You also need to factor in the amount of space in your home and how well you can travel with your crate. Each type of crate comes with its pros and cons. Buying the right size crate is only one of many steps in responsible labrador ownership , so make sure to check out our other training tips for raising a labrador puppy to give your new best friend a long, healthy, content, and happy life. Share on. Dogs love having a small den to sleep in, and once trained, will find comfort in tucking themselves away in a crate. But Labs come in many different shapes and sizes, and grow quickly as a pup. Benefits of Crating a Dog There are many benefits to using a crate for a new puppy or dog. Safe Sleep and Relaxation Space A crate offers a safe space for your dog to relax and rest in. This is the most important use of a crate and should be your first priority when crate training. House training your puppy will be significantly easier if they are confined to a small space. Puppies innately know not to eliminate in their sleeping area. Using this innate knowledge to your advantage can mean only a few days of accidents in the house. This avoids them chewing on furniture or getting into kitchen cupboards. Labs are an intelligent breed who love to chew. They will quickly work out how to open kitchen cupboards and help themselves to your food. This space is only safe if you have correctly and fully trained your Lab to be relaxed and calm in the crate. Ensure you read over our crate training guide before you attempt to secure your Lab inside the crate. Preparing for Future Travel If you plan on traveling with your dog in the future, then it is wise to crate train them while they are young. This will minimize the stress they feel when they are inside a crate. If they are familiar with sleeping in a crate, they will be able to relax. Dogs will be put into crates at the vets if they ever need surgery or an overnight stay. Again, you can minimize their stress by crate training from day one. Untrained or nervous dogs are a danger to themselves inside a crate. Crating can cause a welfare issue if the dog is stressed inside it. However, most puppies and dogs will get used to and even enjoy the crate once they are trained. What Size Crate for a Lab? As a general rule, your Lab should be able to stand up fully, turn around and lay outstretched in the crate, without too much spare room. Depending upon the individual Lab, they can vary in height and weigh between lbs. Males will be on the larger side and dogs from the showing line will be bigger than working Labs. Measuring Up Since your Lab needs enough room to move around, you can measure them to see exactly what size crate they need. Measure from the tip of the nose to the base of the tail while they are standing. Add 4 inches to this measurement. Also, measure from the floor to the top of their head while sitting. Add 2 inches to this measurement. This will give them enough room to move around, but not too much room to do themselves any harm. It is easy to set up and comes with roller feet to protect your flooring. The plastic tub style base will contain any accidents and is easily washable. Depending on the size of your Lab, purchase a inch crate or inch crate with the divider. A divider is good for puppies, as you can make the crate space as big or as small as you need to. We recommend the extra-large size to contain an adult Labrador. This would not be suited to young Labs that still chew. What Size Car Crate for a Labrador? Your Lab will need the same sized car crate. They should be able to move around in the crate comfortably, without extra space. If you plan on having the crate in the trunk of your car, you will likely require an SUV or truck as crates take up a lot of space. Crates vs Playpens for Lab Puppies I always use a full sized adult crate with a divider for my puppies. It saves a lot of time and hassle. If you need to confine your puppy or dog to an area for extended periods of time, then it is best to use a playpen instead of a crate. A Lab will require a inch playpen to keep them contained. Playpens can be used indoors and outdoors to keep your dog contained. If you want an even larger contained space, purchase 2 or 3 playpens of the same brand and size and join them together. However, we selected them for inclusion independently, and all of the views expressed in this article are our own. Leave a Reply Your email address will not be published. You can find a summary of these in my crate training schedule chart below Stage 1 Introduction to crate training for puppies from 8 weeks old This stage covers the first week that you bring your puppy home. Your objective at stage 1 is simply to get the puppy used to being in and around the crate with the door open. Leave the door open Start by placing puppy in his crate frequently and each time you place him in there drop several little edible treats through the roof for him. Just let him come straight out again when he has finished his treats. This introduces the crate as a fun and enjoyable place to be. He will soon come to associate this phrase with going into his crate for a treat Closing the door briefly The next step is to close the crate door momentarily and then open it again. Leave it shut only long enough for the puppy to finish his treat and notice that the door is closed. Then let him out. Do not wait until he gets upset or cries. Repeat many, many times during the course of the next day or two. If he is left alone at night whilst he is still homesick he is likely to howl, and howling in his new crate is not a habit we want to establish. Tending to your puppy during the night If the box is right up against the side of your bed, you can put your hand in and comfort him if he cries. Moving your puppy downstairs at night After the first three or four nights, or by the end of the first week, your puppy can be placed in his crate in the kitchen before you go up to bed at night. So if you put him to bed at midnight, you will probably need to get up around 5am to let him out for a wee to begin with. If a puppy has fallen asleep in his crate and slept for more than a couple of hours then you will need to let him out if he wakes up crying. Getting more sleep! If all goes well, you can stretch this five hours out by 15 minutes or so a night until you are getting seven hours sleep. If he wets the bed you will need to get up earlier the next night. And some puppies will be 12 to 14 weeks before they can cope this long. You can find lot more information on teaching your puppy to be clean and dry in our potty training sections. Crate training during the day There is no immediate need to crate your new puppy during the day for more than a few minutes at a time. The main purpose of crating a puppy during the day is to Help the puppy learn to hold onto the contents of his bladder for a bit longer. To keep him safe when you are busy for short periods, or if you need to leave the house for a while. To give him chance to calm down or a break from small children. However, you do need to get the puppy used to spending longer periods in the crate in preparation for being left alone from time to time when he is older. So gradually, you will accustom the puppy to a few longer spells in his crate. These are tough hollow rubber toys that you fill with mushy food and freeze. You can freeze several Kongs at once by standing them on a baking tray in the freezer. Each time you put the puppy in his crate for more than a couple of minutes, you will leave a frozen food filled Kong in there to keep him company. Puppies love these and will soon grow to associate the crate with the pleasure of the frozen Kong. How to get the puppy used to longer crate times Once you have got to the end of the first week and the puppy has accepted the crate as a nice place to be, the next task is to get the puppy to accept the closed door for longer periods of time. This may take a day or two. Place him in the crate with his frozen kong and close the door for 30 seconds. The idea is to leave the door closed for a few seconds longer each time you crate the puppy. But it is very important only to open the door when the puppy has been silent for several seconds. What to do if the puppy cries in his crate If the puppy starts to whimper or howl you will need to turn away from the crate and ignore him. Wait for the silence as he stops crying and gets to work on his puppy kong. Tell him what a good dog he is. Let him out immediately and go back to much briefer periods of closed door for a while. Try ten seconds or five. Build up again gradually, but do not be tempted to avoid crating him because it upsets him. Once the puppy is happy in his crate, you can use it to help with his potty training. Until then, make sure that you crate him for very short periods when you know his bladder is empty. Otherwise he will wet himself when he gets upset. Puppies that cry need crating more often! If your puppy whines in the crate, you need to crate him more often not less, and for shorter periods. Check out our in-depth article on coping with a crying puppy for more information Just make sure that each time he is crated is very, very brief to begin with. That way he will learn that being crated is not a big deal Warning: if you open the crate door whilst your puppy is howling, he will howl longer and harder next time! Build up slowly to a minute, then two minutes, then three, five, seven, ten, fifteen minutes and so on. How long can a puppy be left in a crate People often ask how long a puppy can be left alone in his crate. For puppies three to six months old I think two hours is a maximum, and for puppies under three months, one hour. If you need to leave your puppy for longer than this, then you need to consider a puppy proof room or pen where water and puppy pads are always available, or even a weatherproof outdoor kennel and run. This involves putting puppy pads down in a large puppy pen or puppy proofed room so that your puppy always has access to a toilet area. You can find out much more about overcoming the problems of being a working puppy parent in this article: combining a puppy with full time work. Stage 3 Training your puppy to go into his crate on command! As your puppy grows bigger, picking him up and putting him in his crate becomes more of a physical event! Provided you are not leaving your puppy alone for too long, he should be happy to go willingly into his crate. This can be achieved through training. This will probably take a couple of weeks. Maybe more if your puppy really does not like his crate at the moment. Have several training sessions each day — at least three. And do 20 or 30 repetitions of the following exercise in each session. This will take you about five minutes. If you are have never used one before, check out this article before you begin: Charging your clicker. Imagine a zone around the crate. It should not be so small that the dog avoids it altogether. A couple of feet in each direction is fine. The object is to get your puppy to choose to enter this zone. You are teaching him to chose to approach the crate. EXERCISE 2 entering the crate doorway In this exercise, you are going to click and treat the dog for putting a nose, or a paw through the opening into a crate. For some dogs this is too big a jump and you will need to work on a smaller crate zone first. We are moving the goalposts and the dog will be surprised when you do not reward him for entering the zone. He will quickly try something different. Have the dog in the room with you Make sure the crate door is wide open Click and treat each time the dog enters the crate zone Repeat five times Throw the treat outside the zone so that he has to re-enter to get the next reward. The next time he enters the zone, wait for him to go closer to the crate and put his nose in the opening What if he fails to do this? Repeat from step 3 until the dog repeatedly puts his nose through the crate door. Now you can stop rewarding him for simply entering the zone. It just takes longer with some dogs than others. Use his entire food ration if necessary. Remember, if you have to go out, scoop him up without a word, and place him in there bodily. Do not use the clicker or any other part of this process, or attempt to lure him in. You going out is a punishment in his mind. Behavior that is punished will diminish. When you click, he will come dashing out again for his treat. Again, we begin the exercise with something we know he can already do Have the dog in the room with you Make sure the crate door is wide open Click and treat each time the dog puts his nose through the crate doorway Repeat five times Throw each treat outside the zone so that he has to re-enter to get the next reward. The next time he puts his nose through the doorway, withold the click. Wait for him to go further in Repeat and gradually raise the criteria you are setting so that more and more of the dog must be through the doorway to get a reward. The exercise is done when the dog repeatedly goes right inside his crate. With a dog that is not crate-shy, you can often work through these three Exercises in a day or two. EXERCISE 4 spending time in the crate Have the dog in the room with you Make sure the crate door is wide open Click and treat each time the dog goes inside the crate Repeat five times The next time he enters the crate withold the click and treat for two seconds If he remains in the crate click and treat If he leaves the crate wait for him to re-enter Repeat from step five until he can wait 2 seconds in the crate and then increase to 3 seconds Work your way up to ten seconds When the dog can cope with ten seconds waiting in the crate, you are ready to close the door. To begin with this will be momentary EXERCISE 5 closing the door Have the dog in the room with you Make sure the crate door is wide open Click and treat after 10 seconds, each time the dog goes inside the crate Repeat five times The next time he enters the crate close the door and immediately open it again Wait a few seconds then If he remains in the crate click and treat If he leaves the crate wait for him to re-enter Repeat from step five until he will go into the crate, watch you open and close the door, and remain in the crate for a few more seconds after you have opened the door. We are nearly there! Use the cue you have chosen. You know the procedure now. We want him to have absorbed the association between this cue and the act of entering the crate. Now it is time to use the cue in advance of the behavior. Once the dog is repeatedly racing into the crate on your cue, we need to make sure he can distinguish this command from other commands. In this case the dog is not discriminating between different cues, but rather making assumptions about what game you are going to play. So the next step in training is to mix in another cue. If he is confused, and he may be, show him what you want, just like before. You now have a dog that actually understands the meaning of In Your Crate and happily complies with your command. It is time for him to adapt to being confined after being told to go in there. Start slowly and build up EXERCISE 9 adding duration Place a Kong with food in it, or some treats on a slow feed bowl into the crate without your dog spotting you Cue the dog into the crate call him into the room first Shut the door and leave it closed for one minute Open the door again and ignore the dog. It is up to him if he stays in the crate or comes out Repeat from step 1 gradually increasing the time you wait before opening the door Vary the length of time you keep the door closed. Sometimes two minutes, sometimes as much as fifteen minutes. Now you can begin to send the dog into his crate for longer periods, such as when you go out for an hour or so. Maintenance tips Send the puppy into his crate often, not just when you need to. Make sure there is always a tasty treat or a Kong in there waiting for him Sometimes when you send him in, close the door If you know you are going to go out shut him in at least ten minutes before you start getting ready to leave If you know you are going to go out always leave him with a Kong full of frozen food When you are not going out, vary the times he is shut in from two to thirty minutes Send him in from time to time without closing the door Provided your dog is not left overly long in a crate on a regular basis, this should overcome any shyness he has about going in there. Dogs of any age can be trained to crate on cue using this system. For more information on using a clicker check out : Ten great reasons to start clicker training Stage 4 Growing up By twelve weeks or three months old, many puppies will be sleeping 7 hours or more at night and going happily into their crates on cue, if they have been taught to do this. When to let your puppy out of the crate at night If all goes well, by about six months of age, your Labrador puppy should be clean and dry in the house, and sleeping soundly through the night in his crate. At this point, many puppy owners breath a big sigh of relief and start to look forward to the prospect of removing this massive and annoying crate from their kitchen for good. So, at what age is it OK to start leaving a puppy loose in the kitchen overnight? And how do you get your dog used to a basket or dog bed, rather than sleeping in his crate? Age related crate training schedules Most people are reluctant to give out information on how long a puppy should be crated, or what to expect at different stages, because puppies are so different from one another. So, I have included a rough guide or puppy crate training chart above. It really is just a rough guide. Your best approach is to simply follow the four stages outlined above, from start to finish, and not worry too much about where your dog is at the moment.
Our Top Recommendations 1. Read ahead of time. We felt well-educated on a plan for taking care of a puppy by reading books before Emma came home. We needed to be very hands-on and involved when Emma was here, so we were happy we already had a plan ahead of time. Planning allowed us to maximize our time with her and increase success. From Day 1, we worked on very simple training tasks with her and added more skills or increased the complexity each week. Watch your puppy like a hawk. Puppies do not know right vs. Our job is to teach Emma what she should and should not do. By watching her closely, we were maximizing success for the long term. The goal is to intervene or redirect her before she starts an undesired behavior. It is easier to provide direct supervision by using puppy gates to limit her access in the apartment. Start training from day 1. Puppies need mental and physical exercise. Puppy Training We followed a five-week training plan to cover basic obedience skills and a few fun tricks. We found each week's pace of training and structure to be highly successful in building a solid foundation. I would recommend following the training in order as each week build on the previous week starting with week 1 training. Puppy Socialization Our at-home training was supplemented with puppy socialization classes at a local training facility for Emma to be around other dogs and people. We were happy we were already registered for puppy socialization classes before Emma came home. Honestly, it is one of my favorite parts of the week. Emma always came home ready for a nap. I recommend searching in your area for puppy socialization classes by looking online, asking neighbors, or asking your vet. When Emma receives all her vaccinations, we will be out and about with her more often, which will help with socialization and provide the opportunity to continue training in various environments. We plan to visit some of the pet-friendly stores in our area. Lastly, we will sign Emma up for an obedience class to continue to work toward our goal of her becoming a therapy dog to continue our mission to spread smiles. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. This was the first time we had a chance to chart puppies from birth until 8 weeks old. We tried to take as many pictures as possible so we could have a journal of our Golden Retriever puppy growth week by week. When raising guide and service dog puppies we usually bring home our puppies at around weeks old. On occasion we are allowed to see puppies before 8 weeks of age, but they need to stay with their mother and siblings during those important early weeks to get milk and antibodies from mama and learn how to interact properly with siblings, learning important behaviors like bite inhibition. During our days as a foster we raised two litters of puppies , but both were already weeks old by the time we got them home. We actually own the Puppy Culture DVD and Workbook which includes charts, lists, worksheets and other great information for raising your litter. Keep your eyes and ears open and absorb it all like a sponge! Birth To 1 Week Old Guess what? This was the first litter we ever whelped!? We got a lot of advise, but we were largely on our own. Large Puppy Dish — great for feeding the puppies when they moved to solid food. Whelping Mats — we ordered 2 of these mats and washed them several times a day. Whelping Box — We have a homemade whelping box built by my father-in-law, but if we continue raising litters I plan on purchasing an EZWhelp Whelping Box. Our homemade box lasted three litters. We ended up purchasing the Magnabox which was hellu expensive but if you plan on raising multiple litters we highly recommend it. We recently put together a whelping checklist with all the supplies we gathered together to help out with our second litter of Golden Retriever puppies. Check out our whelping supplies checklist here. However, none were overly huge and none were extra small. No runts and no beasts. It was my understanding that when the cord was chewed down to the base of the belly it was sometimes difficult to get it to stop bleeding. I took the hemostat and pinched the umbilical cord about 2 inches from the base of the pups belly then cut the cord rather than let Raven chew it off. I kept the hemostat on the cord for about 2 minutes to let it clout. The umbilical cord dries up quickly and then within a day or 2 it falls off. Raven was a good mama and took care of her poops. Puppy eyes and ears are closed at this stage and puppies army crawl around the whelping box looking for a teat to suckle. We did everything we could to make sure our pups stayed warm by adding a watt heat lamp to the whelping box and portable heating unit in the puppy room. As I mentioned Raven stayed in the whelping box most of week 1 and of course… the puppy piles! One thing I learned is if I had a puppy on my lap then do not let Raven lick those areas or be prepared for a little accident on your lap. While caring for Raven and her litter Raven was really blowing out her coat that first week, but as time went on it slowed down. I heard from other friends this is common and that Raven blew out her coat much less than other mama dogs. We got Probiotics for Raven before her first litter, but forgot to order them for her second litter. After an upset stomach for the first week or so we realized our mistake, got Probiotics, and no more upset tummy. Week 2 — Pups eyes are opening starting to waddle. Week 3 — First bark! Week 7 — The great puppy escape artists! Week 8 — Our golden puppies head to their new homes. Have you ever had a litter of Golden Retriever puppies? Tell us about your experiences with puppies in the comment section below. Are you about to raise a litter of puppies? Not raising a litter, but getting ready to bring home your first Golden Retriever puppy? Puppies for Dummies will give you the basics on how to raise and train your new puppy. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist. Colby Colby Morita has been raising and training guide and service dog puppies for over 13 years. Colby has been writing to the PuppyInTraining.
Use tab to navigate through the menu items. We have two beautiful girls still looking for their forever home. My husband and I fell in love with Golden Retrievers in .Our first daughter was five years old and after much research we decided to bring home a puppy. What we did not realize at the time was the unconditional, everlasting love and dedication we were going to experience. We had two more children and brought home another Golden puppy. I can't imagine having raised our children and grand children without our Golden Girls playing with, loving and watching over them. Our Golden Retrievers possess a calm, gentle, and very intuitive disposition. They adore children, people in general and truly live to love and be loved. We are not a kennel. Our girls and their puppies share our home with us and are held and loved from birth. We welcome new families to come visit, take pictures, and get ready for their new fur baby. Each of our Golden Girls and the Studs used for breeding are checked for genetic defects just as their grandparents, great grand parents and all previous generations. Our puppies come from extensive generations of Championship Lineage. Pedigree and Health Certifications presented and time of visit. We breed according to the standard of the Golden Retriever Club of America. We provide our puppies with a Comprehensive Health Examination, their first vaccination and de-worming before they go home with their new families at the age of 8 weeks. Breeders VS. The sad truth is that many pet store purchased pups actually come from puppy mills. Basically, there is zero authenticity with pet stores. When it comes to adopting any animal from a pet store, there is an increased risk of unforeseen health or genetic problems. You also cultivate a life-long relationship with the breeder, meaning support is available to you anytime you may need it. With My Golden Retriever Puppies, you have the option to come and visit both the puppy and the breeder in person! Golden Retrievers are an adaptable breed, meaning they are better at adapting to seasonal changes and various types of climate than certain other breeds. Goldens sport a double-coat, which ensures that these sweet pups are able to tolerate slightly colder temperatures than their friends from other breeds. Your pup deserves better than that, which is why here at My Golden Retriever Puppies, we ensure high-quality care is taken of your pet at all times. We even have all types of golden retrievers for sale! At My Golden Retriever Puppies, we pride ourselves on our golden retriever price being fair and affordable for high quality puppies. Location Information for Pennsylvania Customers Our home office is located in Ohio, but we understand that long-distance travel can be inconvenient. If you prefer to meet a breeder in person, they may be able to offer private visits at their home. Of course! Here at My Golden Retriever Puppies, we value family and authenticity, which is why we always guarantee our pups through our 2-year genetic health guarantee. Like adopting a Golden Retriever from a pet store, there is an increased risk when adopting a pup from a rescue center or shelter as well. For example, pups purchased through a shelter or rescue center are far less likely to come with the kinds of health guarantees and reassurances that a breeder can provide. What type of Golden Retrievers are sold in Pennsylvania? We have some good news! Ready to make your Golden Retriever dreams come true? Take a look at our convenient list of our golden retriever puppies for sale. How do I know which breeders to trust in Pennsylvania? Our independent network of trusted breeders have already been pre-screened and verified, so that you can focus on what really matters: choosing your dream puppy. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. Life Span Did You Know? The Golden Retriever has been an AKC-recognized breed since and was commonly used as a gun dog and for retrieving small game such as waterfowl, and for companionship. The Golden Retriever originated in the Scottish Highlands. The first Lord Tweedmouth, Dudley Majoribanks, is credited with developing the breed and keeping detailed records to create the ideal gun dog for the terrain. Great discipline and a gentle spirit make the Golden Retriever a perfect retrieval breed since the goal of this task is to bring the trophy back as undamaged as possible. Golden Retrievers first appeared in dog shows in at a British dog show. They also started appearing in the United States around the same time as they were brought across the Canadian border. They gained popularity with sport hunters and in general. Their popularity really took off in the s and they are consistently one of the most popular dog breeds. If you are not the sporting type, bringing a Golden Retriever into your family as a pet is just as rewarding because they are one of the most loyal and jovial breeds out there. One of the facts about Golden Retrievers is that they are the epitome of friendly and make fantastic family dogs. Golden Retrievers are considered one of the friendliest dog breeds. They tend to be good with kids, other dogs, other pets, and even strangers. Goldens love attention and they bond closely with their families. They are affectionate with them, and also just about everyone else. Although they do tend to get along with everyone, they love being around their favorite humans the most. They will bark to alert you and can end up barking a lot if you do not train your dog to stop barking early on. Golden Retrievers are highly adaptable dogs. They thrive in homes with yards where they can run. They can also adapt to apartment living as long as they get enough daily exercise, mental stimulation, and attention. These dogs do well in just about any climate, but are sensitive to heat. As one of the most affectionate dog breeds , they are not at all happy about being left alone for long periods of time. Although super-friendly and attention-loving, Goldens can also be sensitive to their surroundings; make sure they feel included, but have a quiet place to go if things get too noisy or overwhelming. Potential health concerns to be aware of in a Golden Retriever include progressive retinal atrophy, cataracts, elbow dysplasia , and hip dysplasia. Good breeding practices make a big difference in the health of puppies. Reputable breeders screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues to puppies. So, make sure you ask about the health and genetic history of the parents. You can also ask about any health tests or clearances that have been done. Goldens are considered one of the best dog breeds for first-time owners. They are highly trainable dogs that pick up on things quickly and are eager to please. These traits make them a good fit for owners of all experience levels. It also helps them excel at obedience competitions. As one of the smartest dog breeds , Golden Retrievers can get bored easily. Because they pick up things quickly, they can get bored with too much repetition in training. If your dog has mastered the command, move on to something more advanced or another activity. You can also enroll in puppy training classes for some variety in training and also some socialization. Golden Retrievers have a long double coat that will shed a little year-round and will be heavier twice a year as the seasons change. Brushing a few times a week and daily brushing during seasonal shedding along with a bath as needed is usually enough for at-home care. You will want to go to the dog groomer for a professional trim a few times a year, especially as the seasons change. Nail trims once or twice monthly keep nails from growing too long. Daily tooth brushing, along with cleanings at the vet when needed, is ideal. Golden Retrievers are one of the most active dog breeds. Daily walks plus some playtime, time to run, and other activities are usually enough to keep these dogs happy and healthy. But, they are high-energy dogs that will likely always be up for more activity if you are. Much like the Labrador , they also tend to have an extended puppyhood. They tend to start winding down a little around the age of 3 and settle into your lifestyle, but they will still be high-energy dogs that require a lot of daily activity. Goldens are known for being versatile and athletic dogs. They tend to love swimming. Once they are done growing and the vet clears them for higher-impact activities, you can try other things too. They are one of the dog breeds that make good running partners. You can also teach them how to play frisbee or play fetch. Training for dog sports is another good option. In addition to obedience, Golden Retrievers are well suited for agility, dock diving , rally, flyball, tracking, and more. Fully-grown Golden Retrievers usually stand inches tall and weigh pounds. Golden Retrievers generally live for years on average. With their intelligence, eagerness to please, and gentle disposition, Golden Retrievers are versatile working dogs. In addition to being one of the dog breeds that make the best service dogs , Goldens can be found working as emotional support dogs, certified therapy dogs, search and rescue dogs, military dogs, police dogs, animal actors, and more. Featured Golden Retriever Article. I have combined the two for easier navigation of all of my services and breeding program. I welcome you to my home on the internet and encourage you to browse around to see all that I have to offer. My name is Chrissy Harp, I have been in business for 18 years now. I want everyone that purchases a golden to have the same great experience of owning a well mannered, healthy, lovable puppy as I have. Everyone should own a golden retriever once in their lives, there is nothing like it!! My line has been in our family for 26 years, so I know the health history and it speaks for itself. I stand behind every puppy with a 2 year health guarantee. My whole mission behind spending all this time and money finding the perfect breed able dogs, is so an average family can have a high quality, healthy pet. As it becomes available, I will post information about my puppies as well as dogs that I have available for sale. You may sign up for my email newsletter. I try to send one out when I have a litter expected, a dog that is trained and ready to be placed, a possible therapy dog, a retired dog needing a retirement home, or if something is new. Additional photos are always available. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me by e-mail at puppies opkgoldens. Welcome to the Pennsylvania state page on TrustedPuppies. Situated in the Northeastern and Mid-Atlantic regions of the United States, Pennsylvania offers a rich history, diverse landscape, and plenty of dog-friendly activities, making it a fantastic place for Golden Retriever enthusiasts. PA sits 6th among the other states, with a hefty dog population of around 2. Our site features reputable PA breeders who specialize in raising healthy and happy puppies. Our breeders are committed to raising the highest quality puppies. They provide their puppies with all the necessary vaccinations and veterinary checkups to ensure they are in the best of health before they go to their forever homes. They also provide ongoing support and advice to ensure a smooth transition for both you and your new furry friend. Pennsylvania is a paradise for dog lovers, featuring an array of dog-friendly restaurants, parks, and events to enjoy with your canine companion. At TrustedPuppies. Most of our trusted Golden Retriever breeders offer safe and affordable flight delivery, with a devoted flight nanny accompanying your new pup throughout their journey, ensuring a secure and comfortable trip as they make their way to their new home in the Keystone State. In addition to flight delivery, most breeders also offer affordable vehicle delivery utilizing specialized pet delivery services. This option guarantees your Golden Retriever puppy is safely transported to your doorstep by a professional who understands the unique needs of pet travel. Begin your search for the perfect Golden Retriever puppy today on TrustedPuppies.
Any puppies that qualify as a German Shepherd Mix are a cross between a German Shepherd and another dog breed. In a mixed breed, you can get any mix of characteristics in the parent breeds. German Shepherds tend to be strong-willed, intelligent, playful, and loyal. To get a full idea of what to expect in your puppy, be sure to ask the breeder about the other dog breed in the cross and check out the mother dog in-person to get a general idea about size and temperament. On the German Shepherd side, you have an independent dog with high intelligence and a playful spirit. German Shepherds make great family pets and are born protectors. Because of their protective instinct, they can be suspicious of strangers. Socialization early and often can help curb this suspicion and make them more open to new people and situations. German Shepherds also tend to be loving and have a lively personality. The German Shepherd Mix can have any or all of these characteristics plus any characteristics from the other parent breed in the mix. Before buying a German Shepherd Mix puppy and bringing them home, be sure to talk to the breeder about the other parent breed. If the puppies are being family-raised around children, you should be able to get an idea of how they will do in a family setting that includes children. The German Shepherd is a moderately adaptable working dog that was bred to guard, work, and herd. They do not tend to do well in apartments and are best-suited for houses with yards. GSDs prefer to be with their families and do not like to be alone. They also tend to prefer cooler climates as they are sensitive to heat. With a German Shepherd Mix, you could get a moderately adaptable dog that is just like a purebred German Shepherd. You could also end up with a dog that is more like the other parent breed. Talking with the breeder about the other parent breed can give you a good idea of what to expect. German Shepherds can be prone to elbow and hip dysplasia. You will need to ask the breeder about the other parent breed in the cross to get an idea of any other health concerns to be aware of in your German Shepherd Mix. Health screenings, clearances, and the genetic history of the parents can help allay concerns about potential health conditions. On the German Shepherd side, training and obedience classes are highly recommended for novice dog owners. Although GSDs are highly intelligent, pick up on things quickly, and train fairly easily, they can be stubborn with an independent streak. Regardless of the other parent breed in the cross, you should be prepared to enroll in obedience and training classes with your German Shepherd Mix. The experience will be beneficial to both you and your puppy and will also offer some opportunities for socialization. You will still want to ask the breeder about the other parent breed in the cross to get an understanding of what to expect during the training process. Professional grooming a few times a year and the occasional bath is also recommended. Regardless of the coat type, your German Shepherd Mix will need to have their nails trimmed monthly and their teeth brushed regularly. Not every dog will allow you to do this, so try to get a tooth brushing session in at least a few times a week to reduce tartar buildup. This will help prevent dental problems like tooth decay and gum disease. Plus, it will help cut down on bad breath! German Shepherds tend to have a high activity level. They were bred to run, herd, guard, and protect, so they are used to working and having a job to do. They are definitely not a lazy dog breed! Be sure to talk to the breeder about the other parent breed in the mix. You will still want to go in prepared for a high energy dog with the understanding that your German Shepherd Mix puppy may have an activity level closer to the other breed in the cross. If both are high energy dogs breeds, expect to end up with a high energy dog. A German Shepherd is a large dog breed that generally weighs between 55 and 90 pounds. They also usually stand between 22 and 26 inches tall at the shoulders. The other dog breed in the cross could result in a smaller or larger German Shepherd Mix. A German Shepherd generally lives for years. You should be able to expect a similar range in your German Shepherd Mix, but the other dog breed in the cross could affect this range. Featured German Shepherd Mix Article. Lady This sweet momma came to our rescue with her two babies as a part of a neglect case. Lady enjoys her foster siblings but doesnt need to be with them. She doesnt mind her foster cat siblings and has been around kids! She loves to be where her foster mom is at all times! Lady is still a little timid when doing new things or going to new places. We are still working on going up and down the inside stairs to bed and kennel. She is 4 years old and is potty trained! Does Lady sound like she could be a part of your family?! This girl is an angel! She seems to be potty trained and is very well behaved! She likes to have her people near her but also likes to be in her own space where she feels comfortable. Her favorite is butt scratches and she will ask for belly rubs!! She knows sit, shake, down. Before throwing the ball, she has to sit. She gets so excited. She loves playing in water and will jump up to catch any water splashed at her. This girl is amazing on a leash too, she gets a little excited to smell every once in a while but once you pull the leash, she takes the correction and is back to your side. She is cat friendly as she avoids them at all costs. Could this girl be the right fit for you? She is ready for her furever family at anytime! Adult, Female, Large Lola Name: Lola Occupation: Showgirl Likes: Food, everything, everyone, puppy toys Dislikes: Being lonely, computer printers, world hunger This gorgeous beauty queen hails from the mystical small town of Fairfield, Iowa, where she was temporarily loved by the good people of Noahs Ark Animal Foundation, and where she won her first beauty title of Best Ears. Thanks to that experience, Lola has gone on to win other good doggy titles such as Most Energetic and Employee of the Month, with her foster family in Cedar Rapids, Iowa. Lola is an 8 month old all white German Shepherd that would do best in a home that has experience with the breed and is prepared for puppy energy, such as a home with older kids as she can be a bit rambunctious at playtime and might knock down smaller children. She is housetrained and knows a few basic commands and tricks but would do best in a home that will continue her training to become the best version of herself. An obedience class would do her wonders as she is a very quick learner! Lola would also do best in a home that has someone there most of the day. She will not be adopted to a family that plans to crate her all day, as she is still trying to grow hair back on parts of her legs from being kenneled for long periods of time. Lolas foster mom works from home and Lola is only crated when everyone in the house will be gone, however she will most likely grow be able to be trusted to roam free alone in a home eventually. At night she is not crated but prefers to sleep with or near her people for instance the hallway outside bedrooms. Some nights she will make the rounds and sleep with everyone, to make sure no one in the family misses out on her cuddles! Lola is a very loving and delightful puppy that would make any family a very good companion that gives her returned love and attention. She told us that she is already very excited to meet you! I am a petite girl who enjoys freedom in the house but dont let my good looks fool you - I am a very smart girl and love to steal food when youre not looking! I am a polite GSD who doesnt jump on humans but I do like to bark when the mail gets delivered. I am potty trained and I know sit, stay, and will usually wait for my food if you tell me! I love squeak balls and love a good hard chew. Im not sure how I feel about other dogs - I see them at the groomers but I usually start to squeal. Im kind of picky when it comes to other dogs and Ive never met a cat before. Ive never met a stranger I didnt like and Ive even been around kids, old and young! I have a fenced-in backyard but I usually stay on a leash because I still havent mastered coming back when called. Im looking for someone who has patience and knowledge of GSDs and would love someone who can take me for a nice, long walk. Senior, Female, Large Mia Mia is a sweetheart of a gal looking for a forever home that will love and cherish her. Mia is great with people, kids, and dogs. Mia is super playful. She has a genetic condition called MegaEsophagus. Her throat does not push food down to her stomach. To help her eat, Mia must sit in a "Bailey Chair" to eat softened food. She must then sit for 30 minutes while gravity works its magic. Mia knows her chair and her routine. Mia must also drink from an elevated water dish. If she eats in any different way, she will likely regurgitate and may aspirate. Due to her condition, she underwent a gastroplexy with her spay. This means you will never have to worry about bloat with Mia. With attention to detail, Mia can live a long happy life. She will reward you with a kind heart and dedication. Mia is whip smart. Mia has basic obedience down and would shine in good citizen and advanced obedience classes. Mia's chair and supplies will come with her. He has been with his foster since June .He is heartworm negative and up to date with his vetting, including neuter. Moe gets along great with dogs. Although Moe has not been tested with children. We have no reason to believe that he would be a problem with them. We are not sure about cats. She was an owner surrender because she was not very nice to the feral kitties in the neighborhood. We will not place her in a home with cats. Nova is great with dogs and children. She is a lovely girl in the home, content to lay at your feet as you work or relax. Adult, Female, Large Pepper Pepper cam into our rescue with her sister and mom, life has not be kind to her. Pepper and her family were part of a neglect case in Oklahoma. Pepper is a very sweet girl, but she will need lots of love to get her confidence back up! Pepper does not mind cats and has been around kids. Pepper is approximately 2 years old and is potty trained. Because she is so shy and timid, she is still working on leash training. We would like Goldy and Pepper to stay together! Do they sound like they could be a part of your family?! A friends daughter fostered her and found her to be sweet. However, it didnt work with her other pets, so she took her back. Princess had a hard time at the shelter with a few incidents. I agreed to take her, and my friends daughter pulled her on the day she was to be euthanized. I picked her up in early April. At the time, she had heartworm. Treatment was completed. Shes probably due for a check on it now. The Dallas shelter had her as 13, but everyone here thinks shes younger. Maybe .When she was surrendered, she was in heat. They spayed her at the shelter. Since Ive had her, shes been sweet to others other than the growls at repairmen. She likes to lick people. Now the special issues she has. Princess has separation anxiety. Shes gone from Prozac when I picked her up to trazadone. The trazadone helps a lot. Acepromazine was too strong, but the boarding place I use sometimes gives her half doses if needed. I can now leave her for several hours without anything happening to the house. She became smart to my tricks to get her into the crate at night, so I leave her out now. She really doesnt get along with other animals. I was told that when I got her, so Ive left my four cats in bedrooms since she arrived. Thats a huge reason why Id like to find her a forever home. Im not skilled with dogs though, so maybe someone could help her overcome that problem. I understand that she was surrendered with another dog. I also go out of town a lot, so I end up boarding her. She is kept away from direct contact with other dogs. Its been mentioned that she has made a lot of progress since she started there. Shes less reactive when other dogs go by her pen. I think the best scenario for her would be with someone who is home a lot and has no other pets. She definitely loves her humans. The sweetest most gorgeous GSD mix who cant wait to find her new home! Rachel has had a rough start to life but that doesnt stop her one bit! Rachel has love for everyone and everything she does. We think she is about 2 years old but in those 2 years she was likely never inside. So know if you would like Rachel as part of your family that she will need training. She doesnt understand how house life works, whats acceptable and whats not. As her fosters we have taught her a few basics but with just a few short weeks with her she will need lots of attention in her new home. Shes a master counter surfer. She does great with the 2 young kids in her foster home ages 4yrs and 18months and also with the other 2 German Shepherds in the home male and female. We do not know how she does with cats or small dogs. I believe Rachel would benefit from having another dog in the house who loves to play as much as she does! She is so playful and full of energy she could go for hours! She is very much a Velcro dog, she will follow you step for step everywhere you go. This gorgeous girl is ready to share her sweet, smart and sensitive self with her forever family! Adult, Female, Large. Share A Story! German Shepherd Rescues In Arizona A small commission may be earned on any purchases made via links on this page. Read our full affiliate disclosure. German Shepherd Rescues In Arizona The German Shepherd is a unique breed, able to do a wide range of jobs, including being a wonderful pet for you. If you are looking for German Shepherd rescues in Arizona, you are very likely to find one in this area. There seems to be many German Shepherds that need rescuing in this state. Here are some of the best places to rescue a German Shepherd in Arizona. They are based in Phoenix Arizona. In the past, they have accepted owner surrendered dogs as well as saving dogs from shelters and breeders, but because their space is currently limited, they are not accepting owner-surrendered dogs at this time. Since they were founded in , Saving Paws Rescue Arizona has saved over 1, lives. Saving Paws Rescue Arizona was founded by a volunteer with the local animal shelter, Trisha Houlihan. She noticed how many German Shepherds and Belgian Malinois were listed for euthanasia. She knew that these dogs required specific resources, so she created a rescue specifically for them. In , someone who had adopted from Saving Paws Rescue Arizona in the past donated five acres of land to the rescue. The rescue plans to build a facility on this space where they can safely house dogs. He started fostering for the rescue seven years ago. In an attempt to raise additional funds, Max and Neo will donate gifts to the supporters of the rescue. If you donate to Saving Paws Rescue Arizona, you could receive collars, treats, beds, or more. They have young puppies, adolescent dogs, and seniors available. They also have purebreds and mixed breed dogs. You can view their current list of dogs available for adoption here. If you are interested in adopting from this rescue, just submit an application. Be patient, as it may take as many as five days for the application to be reviewed. If approved, a meet and greet with one of the dogs that you are interested in will be arranged. This is a wonderful way to get acquainted with this unique breed. This program places dogs that are at high risk of euthanasia that would otherwise have a difficult time being adopted out because of their health, age, or behavior into permanent or semi-permanent foster homes Saving Paws Rescue Arizona also has a sanctuary where they keep dogs that cannot find an adopter or foster home. Some of these dogs display behavior that could be very problematic in the community, such as aggression. Rescue and Adoption Details.
A thick-bellied and thick-legged cub of a Shepherd color with a long tail and dense fur can only be finally classified as purebred when the ears of a German Shepherd puppy stand up. The ears of a true German Shepherd are, according to the standard, erect, of the medium size, set high, with the ends directed forward and up, and not adjacent to the skull on both sides, even when a Shepherd dog is in motion or presses its ears or lowers them in a calm position. When German Shepherd ears stand up when excited, the distance between their highest points tips should visually equal the width of the auricle. Since the range of frequencies heard by a dog is much higher than that of a human, a German Shepherd determines the source of the sound and its direction and location instantly and accurately due to such an auricle at a distance of m depending on the pitch of the sound. Moreover, a Shepherd can hear the peals of thunder or the sound of a working chainsaw at a distance of km. The lowest sound for a human is 16 Hz, while the highest one is 20 thousand Hz. The upper limit of frequency fluctuations perceived by a GS dog as a sound is thousand Hz. Clear hearing is especially important for a German Shepherd as for a dog with high service qualities and no less high requirements for its work. Sensitive ears allow not only for relying on a Shepherd dog as an excellent guard but also for guiding it at great distances, giving commands at frequencies that are not perceived by the human ear or in an undertone. Their small ears are also imperfect — they are rather soft due to the underdeveloped cartilage that makes up the auricle. That is why there are separate German Shepherd puppy ears stages when they start standing up. The cartilaginous plate is covered on both sides with a layer of thin connective tissue that provides the main cartilage with growth and nutrition and is called the perichondrium. The perichondrium, on the contrary, is dotted with mini-hematopoietic capillaries and blood vessels. Through them, the cartilage receives necessary substances for its growth and compaction with the help of conventional diffusion literally, penetration by contact. In the same way, the ear cartilage of a GS dog is built on, and the perichondrium has semi-stem cells which, like bricks, are built into the cartilage tissue. Cartilage cells, in turn, produce collagen and elastin. This is due to the active work of all parts of the auricle cartilage and perichondrium. Up to 4 months, cartilage tissues are especially active, but by the fifth month, the growth of elastic layers and the embedding of stem cells decreases. Having reached a certain density, ear growth slows down, and in a short time, it almost diminishes. The metabolism in the auricle becomes so low that visually the ear seems to no longer grow. However, limited living processes in it continue throughout life. Otherwise, it would be impossible to restore the tissues of the German Shepherd puppy ears in case of damage. To do this, you need to feed the puppy a balanced diet with enough calcium and phosphorus. Excess calcium and phosphorus can adversely affect the formation of the ear cartilage and the development of the musculoskeletal system of a German Shepherd. We must not forget about the composition of the blood because it is the main food for the growth and strengthening of the cartilage plate due to the diffuse contact with it via the perichondrium. Not only nutrition but also the obligatory physical activity of a German Shepherd puppy, both at home and on walks , help improve the blood supply to the perichondrium. Under such keeping conditions, the ears of the Shepherd stand up on time and additional actions on the part of an owner are not required. The optimal age when the ears should stand up is 5 months. Do not be afraid if the ears are 1. This sometimes happens. You need to worry if the puppy is already 8 months old, and the ears still do not rise. If at the age of 12 months, the ears are still not on top, the question of a purebred puppy will emerge. Teeth and Ears It often happens that at 2- 3 months the ears of a Shepherd stood up, and at 4 they fell one or two at once This is a normal process associated with the change of teeth, when the body mobilizes all the microelements to build a strong dental system, pulling phosphorus and calcium front he cartilage in this direction. At the same time, the drooping ears should stand up. Hurry up! After a year, hopes to put up ears in a German Shepherd are melting exponentially. There may be, for example, a birthing crease, subluxation, or hematoma as a result of injury to the ear canal. Has your dog ever had ear infections or other ear problems? They can involve inflammation of the middle ear, otodectosis, or a forest tick attack. Have you noticed any allergic reactions in your pet? It may be allergic to dairy products or antibiotics. If antibiotics or immunomodulators were used, what did your dog get sick with, and how often? Infectious diseases significantly inhibit the development of a Shepherd dog and slow down growth and physiological formation, including cartilage tissues. The latter is in charge of whether the ears of a GS puppy will stand up or it will remain floppy-eared. In what conditions is the young Shepherd kept? When living in an aviary, a dog must have a warmed booth in winter to avoid hypothermia of the ears, leading to spasms of small vessels of the perichondrium and a dense canopy from the sun in summer — overheating also leads to spasms. Do you walk and talk enough to your dog? Each age demands its own supplements developed for puppies, and they are also divided by the size of the dogs: small, medium, and large dogs. The German Shepherd is a large breed! This is one of the most common problems in pedigree dogs, including German Shepherds. Diseases associated with the imbalance of hormones lead to problems with the immune system and prevent the body from proper formations of all organs and their functions. Overfeeding a German Shepherd as well as underfeeding leads to a deficiency of micro-and macroelements, which highly contributes to the timely formation of cartilage tissues by the age when the Shepherd should raise its ears. Have there been any stressful situations? Cortisol, a stress hormone, activates a defense mechanism that blocks the production of new cells including semi-stem cells in cartilage tissues , reduces blood flow, and forms a negative calcium balance in the body of a Shepherd dog. Very often, this problem is transmitted at the genetic level, and your German Shepherd floppy ears can be a result of it. When was the last vaccination administered? After vaccination, the body of a GS dog begins the active formation of immunity. The process requires the consumption of microelements and vitamins for biochemical reactions, so their deficiency is formed, similar to the condition after an illness. How often do you pet your puppy on the head? At your touch, the Shepherd dog instinctively lays its ears back, getting used to keeping them folded lengthwise from the base to the top. The result will be an acquired crease or scar along with the entire ear that keeps the German Shepherd ears down, and this will require cartilage adjustment. If the doctor sees it necessary, your pet will have to take a blood test, undergo an ultrasound, and possibly take some x-rays. Treatment Based on the results of the examination, the doctor will prescribe medicines most often — flavonoids, vitamins, glucosamine, calcitonin, thyroxine, iodine, zinc, iron, manganese, copper, and magnesium , which normalize the composition of the blood and add the necessary building material to the body. It is important to carry out all the medicinal prescriptions under the supervision of a veterinarian. An overabundance of any element can lead to a deterioration in the general condition of the pet and its ears in particular. In addition to medication, the doctor will most likely prescribe an ear massage at home. The massage procedure is not complicated — knead the ear from the base to the very tip between the thumb and forefinger, helping to improve blood supply, for about 5 minutes, times a day. Be careful with the place where the ear is attached to the head! This place does not need to be kneaded, only the auricle itself! Though, the most favorable result will not be long in coming — the ears of Shepherd dogs stand up in just a week or two. It is worse if the veterinarian makes a diagnosis of the atypical defect of the ear cartilage. What does it mean? Is it safe for the health of the Shepherd? And is it possible to put ears on a puppy with such a diagnosis? Atypical Cartilage and Ways to Eliminate Consequences Atypical cartilage is a defect in the development of the ear cartilage, resulting from a damaged structure of ear tissues, and their inability to support the ear in an upright position. This often occurs in young dogs after the ears have stood up, and then an ear or even two has fallen off. The same picture can be observed in old Shepherd dogs — the ear or both fall off and then rise again. The reason is the same — deformation of the ear cartilage due to long years of life at old age. However, with the old GSs, it will no longer be possible to return the ears to a stable standing position. Nevertheless, it is quite possible to correct the position of the young German Shepherd ears — they need to be glued, allowing the cartilage to recover. Gluing is nothing more than the necessary support for the intensive synthesis of elastin a connective protein in tissues and its uniform growth over the entire area of the ear cartilage. Properly glued ears do not allow creases or folds, never stretch scars, and make it possible to fill these creases with full-fledged elastin within 1. In this case, the puppy or young GS should be given maintenance vitamin supplements containing gelatin. Good results are also provided by a steep bone jelly or soaked food gelatin, 1 tbsp before every feeding. Adding bone meal and sea fish to the diet is a good solution, too! Taping Ears Correctly Since when is it worth starting the taping process? Until months of age, cartilage correction is unlikely to be needed. It is better to use the support in the form of massage and, possibly, a garter to put two ears together from months of age so that they take the correct position on the head. Feel the ear from its base to tip. If a crease or scar is found, you need to tape the ear urgently! You can watch some videos to see how to tape German Shepherd ears correctly. To correct one non-standing ear if the cartilage is even and of good density, without creases and scars, you can resort to a cardboard or plastic insert that maintains the ear in the desired position. Watch some videos to see how to do that. In any case, do not despair! David W. I admire German Shepherds. They are magnificent dogs! I have been dealing with dogs, namely German Shepherds, throughout my life. I have been working part-time as a dog trainer and instructor for about 5 years, dealing mainly with German Shepherds. So I know a bit about these animals. Therefore, I decided to share my knowledge and experience about this fantastic breed. If you need help with advice and care tips or want to know more about German Shepherd dogs, welcome to this blog. Aug 18, Share German Shepherds have a distinctive look that includes alert, erect ears. For most pups, the ear cartilage begins to harden around week 20, or when the pup is finished teething. At that point, it can take up to 20 weeks for the ears to stand up fully. This can vary by the individual, however. Like human ears, dog ears are made of cartilage. As they grow and gain nutrition, German Shepherds develop stronger and stronger cartilage to support those ears. Typically, puppies at weeks will have floppy ears that occasionally stand up but quickly fall back down. Around week 20, or 5 months, your pup is done teething and its ears will begin to harden and stand. Your vet may have some suggestions to help the process along. If your pup reaches 8 months and still has floppy ears, the chance of them standing on their own is slim. Some breeders try to breed for larger ears, leading to ears that are too heavy to stand up. If strong, alert ears are important to you, be sure to look for a pup with parents that have erect ears. If the ears sustain trauma during that time, it can cause permanent damage to the cartilage. If your puppy gets parasites, it can impact healthy development, which includes the hardening of its ear cartilage. Be sure to take your puppy to the vet regularly and have routine fecal exams to check for worms and other parasites. Your vet can recommend an appropriate deworming protocol for your growing puppy and treat parasites if they occur. However, if you want your puppy to have strong, alert ears, you can help the process along in a number of ways. In an effort to move ear development along, some owners will add supplements like calcium. Chew toys are also good for teething and keeping your puppy occupied. German Shepherds are strong, even as pups, so be sure to choose solid, durable chew toys that are safe and appropriate for your puppy. It should only be used as a last resort, however. If you use tape too early, it can hinder natural development. That said, if you wait until the seventh or eighth month, it may be too late to help. Glue the ends of the popsicle stick to the tape on both ears, horizontally. Once a week, remove the popsicle stick, foam, and tape. If the ears stand on their own, leave them. Related Reads:. However, some adult German Shepherds will have floppy ears. There are several causes for this. There is also a genetic trait in some German Shepherds to have floppy ears. When one or both of the parents has floppy ears, there is a strong chance that the offspring will inherit this trait. If this is the case with your dog, there is not much you can do about his floppy ears. Rough play. GSD puppies play rough , and a lot of times, this can affect their ears through nips and bites. Cartilage is not like the skin because it is not highly vascularized. You can support the healing times by offering him a healthy, balanced diet. You may even consider food specially formulated for German Shepherds. Ear infections. Because they have such dense fur, German Shepherds are highly susceptible to ear infections. The coat interferes with the air circulation of the ear canals, setting up the perfect circumstances for infections and mites. Signs of these problems include shaking the head and pawing the ears. The ears may go up for a bit during the teething process and then return to the floppy position. After more time passes, the ears should return to the upward position again. However, even after nine months, there are several methods that you can try that will assist in training his ears to stand. When your puppy reaches eight months old and still has floppy ears, you can try giving him chew toys to work out his jaw muscles. Chewing on toys will work his temporalis muscle, which is one of the muscles involved in supporting upright ears. Ear taping can be done at home, while surgical implants will need to be administered by a veterinarian in a sterile environment. The ear may be set in its position at this stage, and the procedure may not have much effect. Discard the hard plastic clip from the inside of each roller and only keep the spongy foam parts. Steps to Follow The first step is to insert the pencil into one of the rollers roughly one inch to create a handhold. Ensure it is well-covered, but do not use it so much that it oozes or drips off the roller. Then tape the ear into a fairly firm roll in an upright position. The roller must be placed inside and near the bottom of the ear flap. Remove the pencil from the roller. You will have to keep your puppy distracted for a few minutes until the glue has time to dry. The rollers will fall out on their own in roughly a week. You can remove them before this if you need to. Taping is intended to provide support to the cartilage of the ears so that it can form adequately and be strong enough to make the ears stand up. It is a painless procedure, but it can cause some discomfort for your dog. Additionally, if your German Shepherd is genetically predisposed to having floppy ears, no amount of taping will override his genes. His ears may perk up and flop back down during teething, which begins around 3 months old. Once teething is over, his ears will once again perk up. At this stage, they may be somewhere in the middle. One ear may be standing while the other is floppy, or both may be half-standing. You may even have a German Shepherd who has both ears fully upright at this age! If they are not, you will have to visit your veterinarian or breeder for advice on what to do. German Shepherd Ear Positions There are several German Shepherd ear positions that you will observe as your puppy grows from a newborn to 8 months old. First, he will have teensy ears from birth to 7 weeks of age. This is when his ears will flop to both sides. His ears will experience the flying nun position from 10 to 14 weeks. For this position, his ears will still be flopped to the sides but will be slightly lifted. Starting at around 14 weeks, his ears will be in the comb-over position where both ears will flop to one side of his head or the other. Anywhere from 15 weeks on, his ears will go into the seashell position. This position has the ears mostly upright but not quite all the way. At some point, one ear may flop over while one is upright in the one-up ear position. This position may be concerning because an ear that was previously upright suddenly flops over. However, it is temporary, and the ear will return to normal. Finally, once these stages have been cycled through, the ears will go into the perfect upright position. Note that not all stages will be experienced by every dog. Age in weeks. Bright eyes, strong profiles, and of course, those perky, attentive ears! When you first bring your German Shepherd puppy home, its ears will probably be floppy and droopy — at times, those ears may try to make a stand, only to fall back down again. What gives!? As your German Shepherd grows and gets the right nutrition among other things , the cartilage gets stronger and stronger. And voila — straight, pointy German Shepherd ears! But is it really that simple? Sometimes, yes. Sometimes, no. German Shepherd puppy ears can be unpredictable! The key is to be patient and give those ears time to develop on their own before stepping in. Those ears should perk back up after teething is over. If you want to learn more about the timing of teething and what to look for, check out this article on German Shepherd puppy teething. When went to visit my German Shepherd, Allie pictured above at 7 weeks old , her ears were floppy and undeniably precious. I brought Allie home at 8 weeks, and those ears still had their ups and downs, but by 10 weeks old, her ears were up permanently. So, the key is to catch it in time. This flip-floppy stage is completely normal. Genetics can also come into play when some breeders try to breed specifically for German Shepherds with larger ears. As a result, those big, oversized, heavy ears may be too much to stand up. If pointy, perky ears are important to you, then choose your breeder and puppy carefully. Make sure to check out the parents — how do their ears look? Any significant trauma to the ears during this time can cause permanent damage — which may also cause droopy ears. Try to have everyone keep their hands off those adorable ears as much as possible. Parasites: Yuck. Puppies need chew toys, as it exercises their jaw and their head and neck muscles. Those muscles are important for perky puppy ears. So, let your puppy chew, chew, and chew on the right things of course. If you need some ideas for durable dog toys that can withstand those chomping jaws, then check out this article for my picks of the best tough German Shepherd chew toys. Stick to a high-quality, natural diet instead. Cottage cheese and yogurt both have plenty of calcium without overdoing it , and chicken feet are a natural source of glucosamine, which helps strengthen cartilage. Give those ears time to develop on their own before you resort to taping. At the end of the article are some sources that go over common methods of taping. Note: There are several options that you can use for this — there are even foam dog ear forms. Thin, white surgical tape that tears easily. A 2-inch wide tape works well, and you can also get this at Walmart, CVS, or somewhere similar. Note: Do NOT use duct tape or electrical tape — these will do way more harm than good! An unsharpened pencil or popsicle stick. Adhesive — either skin bond adhesive or eyelash glue are good choices. Give those ears plenty of time to develop and get stronger before taking action. How old was your German Shepherd puppy when its ears finally stood up? Let me know below! Especially during the first six months, be extra careful not to aggressively clean their ears. They will be more prone to lesions in the ear cartilage at this time. Yet it would be understandable if you are reading this and feel dismay or even horror. How can that possibly be a good thing? But understand we are not talking about doing anything harmful or invasive. The techniques you are about to read about will not harm or hurt your German Shepherd puppy at all. They will simply support the ears to grow into the upright position without having to work so hard to get there — or stay there. You want to give your pup enough time to try to do this naturally. But you also want to intervene before the cartilage in the ears starts to harden usually around seven to eight months old , leaving the ear flaps in the wrong position. You will need the following supplies: Some type of surgical tape NOT duct tape or any super-adhesive tape. Foam roller inserts or foam pipe insulation cut to size. Two plain popsicle sticks or unsharpened pencils. Wrap the surgical tape around the outside of the ear to hold the insert in place. Be prepared for your puppy to find a way to paw off this strange contraption several times before they finally get used to it and forget about it. You want to leave this in place for a week and then remove it to check the ear position. You may notice the ears start to stand a little straighter week by week. But if you see them flop over again, you need to re-tape them until they are strong enough to stand up on their own. Ear gluing Another option you can try is puppy ear gluing. This is actually not nearly as awful as it sounds and is far easier to do than the ear taping method. Another perk of puppy ear gluing over taping is that you are not going to cut off any air circulation to the inner ear canal. The key is to pick some kind of fabric glue do NOT use super glue or super-bonding glue that may not come off. What you need to do for this method is to add a dab of glue to the outside of the inner ear flap about two-thirds of the way down from the ear tip point. Then press the two ear flaps together for 30 seconds to allow the glue to set. Wherever possible, if you have multiple dogs in your household, try to keep your German Shepherd puppy from playing rough games with the other dogs. Rowdy playtime can easily cause the ears to separate. The glue will wear off on its own after a while and you can observe if the ears are able to remain upright and erect when this occurs. If you need to, keep reapplying the glue until the ears are strong and stable to remain in the correct position without glue. It may take a few weeks or longer for this to occur. Do not worry if the ears are not in a perfect position. As long as they stay upright, the inner muscles and tissues will naturally self-correct over time. Surgery Certain situations may even require surgical implants, like when ear cartilage damage occurs. Massage the Ears Massaging the ears helps by increasing blood flow to the ears, helping your form strong ear: Muscles Cartilage Chew Toys Chew toys are not only great for keeping your pup occupied, but they can also be great sources of collagen. This will help build strong ear cartilage capable of holding the ears in the upright position. Chew toys also work the ear muscles. This will strengthen the surrounding tissues. This is especially true for dogs prone to health issues, like German Shepherds. Foods rich in nutrients like calcium and glucosamine will help your dog form strong and healthy ears. These nutrients are vital for developing sturdy ear cartilage. Stimulation Dogs communicate a lot with their ears. Just think of German Shepherds that are alert and focused on something, like an odd noise they heard outside. Chances are, their ears will be standing erectly. Stimulation like this encourages the use of the ear muscles. There are two areas where you will definitely want to pay closer attention. Bath time and during playtime with other dogs. Keeping water out of the ears will reduce infections and head shaking. Using a headband is an easy way to do this, and can also prevent injuries when playing with other dogs. What causes German Shepherds to have floppy ears? The most common ones include breeding issues, teething, cartilage development issues, trauma, and poor nutrition or hygiene. Breeding Pointy German Shepherd ears are among the top distinct features of the breed. Unfortunately, this can sometimes lead to improper breeding practices. Teething Floppy ears are a common occurrence when the dog is teething. Developing cartilage German Shepherd puppies are born with floppy ears. As their bodies develop, their ear cartilage and muscles also develop up to the point that they are able to support the weight of the ears, keeping them upright. German Shepherd ears typically start to perk up when the dog is about 6 to 10 weeks old. They can also sometimes flop back down while the dog is teething only to stand up again. Trauma Trauma is a common reason for floppy ears in German Shepherds. Physical trauma caused by an accident or injury to the ears can cause one or both of them to drop. If you suspect trauma, visit your vet to address any wounds and prevent infection. However, their ears need to be kept clean in order to prevent infections that could cause their ears to drop. Dogs not getting enough calcium and vitamin D during puppyhood may have trouble keeping their ears up as their skeletal support structure is not developed properly. They should be well-aligned, symmetrical namely just as wide as they are tall , and carried upright. However, not all dogs will have perfectly standard ears and some may have ears that are too large, too small, too high, too low, or just ears that point in the wrong direction. In fact, there are at least 12 different German Shepherd ear shapes , each with their own distinct characteristics. German Shepherd ears will usually stand up at around 4 months of age. But this can happen as early as the 1-month mark, or as late as the 6-month mark when teething finishes. But more than anything, they tell you how the dog is feeling at any given time. The ears really are the window to the soul for not just GSDs, but all dogs. During this time, more calcium is being directed to the growing teeth, and away from the ear cartilage. When teething is over, and more calcium can be directed back to the ears, they will most likely stand back up again. This is especially true if your pup has sustained an ear injury in the past, and broke the ear cartilage as a result. German Shepherd puppies are especially prone to this during the first 6 to 8 months, since their ears are still developing. These injuries can occur during rowdy play with other dogs and people, or from excessive scratching. This will help their ears develop faster and stronger, and will help prevent ear injuries in the future. But in most cases, if you act fast enough, even the floppiest German Shepherd ears are capable of being corrected. Ear development can vary from puppy to puppy. If they stand up when the puppy is scared or excited or when they bark, you can expect to see fully erect years by the time they are six months old. Will my German Shepherd mix ears stand up? Depending on the genes they inherited, your German Shepherd mix may have erect ears or not. You can support their ear development by giving them chew toys, massaging the base of their ears, and giving them calcium and vitamin D supplements. The ear flap is the outermost ear and is often called the pinna plural is pinnae. A dog has two pinna — one for each ear. Each pinna can work independently of the other, which is part of what gives dogs such keen hearing. This is the same reason all German Shepherd puppies are born with their ears down and floppy. It takes time for the cartilage to form, thicken and then harden into the characteristic erect ear position of the German Shepherd. The ears might pop up as early as four weeks old only to flop back down around four months old. Not only is the cartilage in the outer ears still forming and hardening, but the many muscles, tendons, ligaments, and tissues that help the ears move and function are still getting coordinated as well. This is why it is wise not to get concerned about ear position or stability until after your German Shepherd puppy has finished teething. There is just too much growing going on to expect your little puppy to look like a full-grown adult dog yet. This video gives you some unique tips to help their ears get stronger and stand up without human assistance like some of the tips you read about in this article.
Also my puppy came from an Amish family in Ohio so requested cash only and landline communication only. I drove miles and took my chances and they were so communicative and really nice family. They answered all my concerns and so did Gold Star Pups and would respond within the hour. My puppy been check by the vet and is healthy and well and super loving and sweet. I ended up changing his name from Prince to Miles because it took Miles to get this little guy. Thank you so much and have already recommended this site to others. He has been such a joy and he even goes to work with me! Easy process for purchasing. I had no issues at all. Ashley Barns August 21, thank you soooo much gold star puppies! Karen Zeigler August 14, I was concerned about buying a dog on line, but I quickly learned that Lancaster puppies only use reputable stores, not puppy mills. Gold Star was helpful, trustworthy, and did everything they promised. My puppy is smart, and healthy. She is sound minded and I absolutely love her. Sharon Secrest August 14, Gold Star puppies is the best! They walked us through each step on purchasing our forever puppy We highly recommend them! Thank-you Gold Star! The process was very easy! I had him delivered to Arizona. The delivery service guys were great on updating me when they would be arriving. Leo is been great and is adjusting well! Thanks gold star pups! Madison Chrisman June 12, We love our sweet puppy we got! Gold Star pups is a "middle man" for the Amish breeder. However, our little puppy came from a very nice farm and super nice people. She was exactly what we thought she would be. These people were very nice and professional and worked with me on price and pick up. I would definitely buy another puppy from here. Here is our sweet Rue, a mini bernadoodle! He came to us healthy and happy and we are surprised at what he knows, from fetching a ball to potty training. .Highly recommend working with them if you are looking for an awesome puppy. Janette Mac February 21, She is so adorable. .I got my 2nd fur baby from gold star pups LLC and we are so happy with everything. .Looking forward to get our next fur baby's soon!!! They made everything so easy and took care of everything needed to get our puppy home. Thank you Gold Star Pups for this adorable addition to our family. We have a strict, no puppy mill policy. We hold ourselves and our clients to the highest standards and aim to improve the life of each puppy, breeder and owner who joins our family. Gold Star Pups has a zero tolerance policy for puppy mills or substandard breeding practices of any kind. You will always know where your Gold Star puppy was born and raised. Why is Gold Star Pups your superior resource for finding puppies for sale in Ohio and beyond? We are a sales agency representing quality puppy breeders. So we help them out by advertising their puppies online and finding new homes for their cute pups. No, a broker would be someone buying and re-selling the puppies. We are simply the sales agency representing the breeder, similar to what a real estate agency does if you will. Where do your puppies come from? Since our goal is to provide our customers with happy, healthy, and well-socialized puppies that have gotten a great start in life, we work only with breeders who follow the state and USDA guidelines for raising puppies. If a breeder is unwilling to let a customer visit their home to pick up a puppy because they are afraid of what the customer will see, we will not work with them. Also my puppy came from an Amish family in Ohio so requested cash only and landline communication only. I drove miles and took my chances and they were so communicative and really nice family. They answered all my concerns and so did Gold Star Pups and would respond within the hour. My puppy been check by the vet and is healthy and well and super loving and sweet. I ended up changing his name from Prince to Miles because it took Miles to get this little guy. Thank you so much and have already recommended this site to others. He has been such a joy and he even goes to work with me! Easy process for purchasing. I had no issues at all. Ashley Barns August 21, thank you soooo much gold star puppies! Karen Zeigler August 14, I was concerned about buying a dog on line, but I quickly learned that Lancaster puppies only use reputable stores, not puppy mills. Gold Star was helpful, trustworthy, and did everything they promised. My puppy is smart, and healthy. She is sound minded and I absolutely love her. Sharon Secrest August 14, Gold Star puppies is the best! They walked us through each step on purchasing our forever puppy We highly recommend them! Thank-you Gold Star! The process was very easy! I had him delivered to Arizona. The delivery service guys were great on updating me when they would be arriving. Leo is been great and is adjusting well! Thanks gold star pups! Madison Chrisman June 12, We love our sweet puppy we got! Gold Star pups is a "middle man" for the Amish breeder. However, our little puppy came from a very nice farm and super nice people. She was exactly what we thought she would be. These people were very nice and professional and worked with me on price and pick up. I would definitely buy another puppy from here. Here is our sweet Rue, a mini bernadoodle! He came to us healthy and happy and we are surprised at what he knows, from fetching a ball to potty training. .Highly recommend working with them if you are looking for an awesome puppy. Janette Mac February 21, She is so adorable. .I got my 2nd fur baby from gold star pups LLC and we are so happy with everything. .Looking forward to get our next fur baby's soon!!! They made everything so easy and took care of everything needed to get our puppy home. Thank you Gold Star Pups for this adorable addition to our family. We have a strict, no puppy mill policy. We hold ourselves and our clients to the highest standards and aim to improve the life of each puppy, breeder and owner who joins our family. Gold Star Pups has a zero tolerance policy for puppy mills or substandard breeding practices of any kind. You will always know where your Gold Star puppy was born and raised. Why is Gold Star Pups your superior resource for finding puppies for sale in Ohio and beyond? We are a sales agency representing quality puppy breeders. So we help them out by advertising their puppies online and finding new homes for their cute pups. No, a broker would be someone buying and re-selling the puppies. We are simply the sales agency representing the breeder, similar to what a real estate agency does if you will. Where do your puppies come from? Since our goal is to provide our customers with happy, healthy, and well-socialized puppies that have gotten a great start in life, we work only with breeders who follow the state and USDA guidelines for raising puppies. If a breeder is unwilling to let a customer visit their home to pick up a puppy because they are afraid of what the customer will see, we will not work with them. Please schedule an appointment or contact us to visit. Your details were sent successfully! Send See what people are saying about us. From the very start the communication was spot on. We picked up our puppy on August 14, .I was nervous about getting a puppy online but my fears were unfounded. Kobe now Teddy was socialized with children, very clean, healthy and happy. He has been a wonderful addition to our family. He seems very smart and is cuddly and lovable. He gets along with our other dogs and is doing well with housebreaking and learning to sit. Walking on a leash? No problem. Everyone I encounter tells me what a cute dog I have. I think Rudy's prices are reasonable and highly recommend Rudy to anyone looking for a puppy! I was able to get him to stand still for this picture today, .Bentley is 5 months old and is the perfect addition to our family! He is the sweetest, most loving puppy. He loves to play outside and roll around in the grass maybe dig a few holes;! Rudy was amazing and made this process seamless for my boyfriend and I. He consistently sent us pictures, kept us in the loop, and answered any questions that we had in a very timely manner. They live in Boston, MA and are the best doodles we could have ever asked for! Rudy was so helpful throughout our process of adopting and he was spot on with predicting their personalities. Thank you, Rudy!
Use tab to navigate through the menu items. This gene determines how soft the coat will be. Furnishings are facial hair. This trait test is a breeder's best indication for shedding. Hair, Fleece or Wool? Labradoodles can have coats that shed a lot, shed a little, and that do not shed at all. There are differences you should be aware of to help you determine which coat would be better suited for you and your family. It can be difficult for a breeder to predict coat-types for first and second generation F1 or F1b labradoodles. Some pups are wavy when born and have produced very fleece type coats when they got older. Some pups are straighter haired when born and end up with a beautiful fluffy non shedding coat. Then there are some pups that appear like they have a wavy coat, but end up shedding, or a pup that looks wavy but ends up curly as an adult. The only way to know for sure what coat you are getting from an F1b litter, is to have the coats DNA tested. Doodle Sweethearts includes this in their breeding program using Paw Print Genetics! The fleece coat is low to non shedding, depending on 1 or 2 furnishings; tends to look shaggier than wool and it hangs in silky, light, loose locks which flow and ripple when the dog moves. Some feel this is the ultimate labradoodle coat or teddy bear coat. Puppy coat is easy to care for, but during transition to the adult coat, it can become very high maintenance due to matting. The final adult coat may or may not be easy care after puppy transition has been completed. Mostly non-shedding, but some have been known to shed minimally. Should be fairly allergy friendly Should be no doggie odour. Typically seen in F1B labradoodles or second generation and multigen lines. There are different types of fleece coats as well, some fine or thick, some wavy, curly or straight. As a puppy this sometimes can be hard to differentiate between a fleece coat or a wool as an adult, but with DNA coat testing, this can be determined. Fleece and wool coats can be kept short or long depending on your lifestyle but generally need to be clipped times a year every wks Weekly brushing is required to clear any mattes Curly Soft Wool Coat What is a Curly Soft Wool Coat? Wool is generally non shedding; it is denser and thicker, curlier and soft.Fleece and wool coats can be kept short or long depending on your lifestyle but generally need to be clipped times a year every wks Weekly brushing is required to clear any mattes Unlike some other breeds, dogs with fleece and wool coats shed very little dander skin cells a common cause of allergies in humans which makes them excellent for households with allergies. Proudly created with Wix. You may be wondering how dogs within the same breed can have coats that differs so much. Your dogs genetic line ultimately determines the type of coat they will have. First generation Labradoodles, the litter of a Poodle and Labrador parent, typically have a non shedding coat that is wavy with loose curls. A F1B Labradoodle, the direct result of one Labradoodle parent one Poodle parent, generally have wavy or fleece fur. Both F1 Labradoodles and F1B generation Labradoodles are recommended for those families with allergy sufferers. In saying this, non-allergenic hair coated Labradoodles, are the most common in the first generation breeds. A hair coated Labradoodle does not look similar in appearance to their fleece and wool coated brothers and sisters. A hair coated Labradoodle often referred to as having a straight coat looks more like their Labrador parent. Often these Labradoodles look scruffy in appearance. The muzzle area of a hair coated Labradoodle will be smooth and straight. They do not have the typical fluffy teddy appearance that the typical Labradoodle sports. While a hair coated Labradoodle sheds, their coat can be easily maintained. These dogs are great for families that are time poor for daily grooming although they are not suited to families that have allergies. A hair coated Labradoodle is often only the result in a first generation litter. The hair coated Labradoodles are less desirable by breeders due to the fact their hair coat sheds often. The hair coat feels wiry to touch. Furthermore, the coat of a fleece Labradoodle is said to be the easiest to maintain. This low shedding coat generally a non-shedding coat should be brushed out at least once a week. Fleece coated Labradoodles should feel soft to touch. The curls within the fleece can be slightly wavy to noticeably wavy. Kemp a course hair is often found around the eyes of a fleece coated Labradoodle. The tightness of the curl purely depends on the Labradoodles genetics. While some wool coated Labradoodles have tight curls that appear similar to the coat of their Poodle parent, others have a loose curled coat. If you own a curly coated Labradoodle, it is recommended that you groom your dog once a day. Alternatively, you may opt to shave your dogs coat shorter so that it can be easily maintained. The coat of a curly Labradoodle can almost be guaranteed to be non-shedding. Mats in a Labradoodles fur make it uncomfortable for them to run and lead an active lifestyle. It is recommended to take wool coated Labradoodles to a professional groomer every six weeks to maintain a healthy coat. A wool coated Labradoodle feels soft to touch and has a coat similar to that of a lamb. The wool coat of a Labradoodle should hang with hollow spiral when groomed appropriately. Often wool coated Labradoodles have dense and thick fur. Allowing your dogs coat to grow excessively leads to matting and in turn pain for your Labradoodle. The shedding coat is not desirable in this breed which is generally the result of a hair coated Labradoodle. In terms of grooming your Labradoodle, it is recommended to book them in to see a trained dog groomer every 6 to 8 weeks. This applies to any coat type. Although hair coats do not require as much maintenance, the hair inside your dogs ears should be plucked regularly to avoid infection and build up. Furthermore, your dogs nails will need to be clipped regularly especially if you only have grass and no concrete. Regularly home grooming should be performed to keep your Labradoodles coat in pristine condition without matting. Ensure you purchase a pet grooming brush recommended for long and thick hair while you Labradoodle is still a puppy. Related posts:. Labradoodle Puppy -Will a Labradoodle be easy to look after? Karen has been grooming Labradoodles since she introduced the first litter of doodle puppies in BC Australian Labradoodle with a fine wool coat, Lexi The Labradoodle Wool Coat The coats are identified by their feel rather than their look. The wool coat is one that I love because I live with severe allergies and asthma. This coat is most like a poodle coat and although the wool coats of our dogs are very soft they feel like poodle coats and are very curly. These coats absolutely do not shed. Even during the change from puppy coat to adult coat they shed very little. Our Aussi has a curly wool coat. He is clipped so that he can lead his very active life style. Lilyanna has an unusually soft curly wool coat that waves when it is long. The Labradoodle Wool Coat The coats are identified by their feel rather than their look. The Labradoodle Fleece Coat The fleece coat is wavy rather than tightly curled. It is a very desirable coat because it is slightly easier to look after than the wool coat and it has a lovely silken feel. Although we have not had a shedding fleece dog there is the possibility of some light shedding when they change from a puppy to adult coat. The fleece coat does need to be brushed but it is much more easily kept long than a wool coat. The puppy and adult dog will need regular grooming because the face will need trimming as will the bum and beneath the ears to prevent matting. Somewhere between nine and fourteen months of age the adult coat will grow in. At this transition time the coat will need lots of attention in order to keep the length. Brush right to the skin with a stiff brush or rake. If the dog mats at this point she will have to clipped short by your groomer. Hair Coat The hair coat feels very similar to the hair on your head. It is unlike the feel of wool or fleece. The hair coat will shed. It requires little attention. Puppies will often look like they are going to have a fleece coat until the hair comes through the puppy coat at about eight or nine weeks of age. The doodle with a hair coat has the same wonderful temperament and personality as the doodle with the non shedding coat but is not good for a person with allergies or for a family that has chosen the doodle because of his non-shedding qualities. It is hard to get a brush through the curls if you leave it too long. Without this regular brushing right down to the skin mats will form next to the skin. Mats make it very uncomfortable for the dog to walk and run and play. We keep our wool coated dogs clipped short because we live with fields of weeds and burrs. It is quite possible to keep a wool coated dog with a long coat, it simply is a matter of keeping up with the brushing and keeping feet, faces and bums clipped. This would be a trip to the groomer at least every second month. Every six weeks keeps dogs in both long and short coats looking and feeling like movie stars. Grooming For Every Doodle No matter what the doodle coat there is grooming required. This can either be done by an interested family member or your groomer. Ears Fur grows out of the ears of a labradoodle. It begins its journey deep in the ear canal. If ears are not keep clean and dry dirt and wax can lead to severe ear infections. You can tell when the doggie has hot ears that there is a problem and a trip to the vet will be in order. Some doodles love to dig and have very thick fur in their ears. This means it could be a good idea to pluck the fur from deep in the ear. It is not difficult to take tweezers or better still a hemostat and pluck out the fur on a regular basis. I must say I almost swooned the first time I did it myself but it does get easier. Unless you are an expert it is a two person job, one to hold the dog and promise treats, the other to pluck. Your vet can recommend an ear drying powder which will keep the ears in good health. Of course, your groomer will do the ear plucking for you. If you take your dog every six weeks she should be fine. Nails Unless dogs travel on a stone river bed a couple of kilometers every single day they need their nails trimmed. Our Labradoodles have dew claws and they will always need attention. Nail trimming should be done every few weeks. It is however another wonderful thing your professional groomer will do. Our doodle girls have fuzzy feet and so have to be content with a simple nail trim. Little Bottoms All long coated dogs need a trim around their little bottoms for ease of toilette. He is enjoying his new summer doo as he loves water sports. This boy always stops to smell the roses or dandelions. Contact Us. As you might have guessed, this dog is a cross between poodle and Labrador parents — and the result is an adorable bundle of joy with a sweet, gentle personality. Labradoodle puppy coats come in a range of colors and textures, so labradoodle owners are spoiled for choice when choosing their fur baby. Read on to discover more about Labradoodles and labradoodle coat types. What Are Hypoallergenic Dog Coats? Hypoallergenic dogs have less of a thick coat than many other breeds. A highly shedding coat presents a higher risk to allergy sufferers than non-shedding dogs like a labradoodle puppy. As a dog with one of the most allergy-friendly coats , there are a few practicalities to keep in mind when it comes to your labradoodle pooch and its coat. Pretty much every labradoodle puppy goes through a coat change, which is separate from a shedding coat. The puppy coat is eventually replaced by an adult coat, which comes with more grooming requirements. Types of Labradoodle Puppy Coats One of the best things about labradoodle dogs is the wide range of choices with regard to appearance. Wool Coat You can determine if your Labradoodle puppy has a fleece coat. You can identify fleece coats by the way the fur sits between the eyes, as this area starts to get curly first. This is the curliest coat type, but it still comes in a variety of types. Some dogs with a curly coat have a cotton-type coat, which is the softest but also incredibly high maintenance. Labradoodle puppies with wool Labradoodle puppy coats are mainly non-shedding and can make great companions for pet owners with allergies. Fleece Coat Doodles with a fleece coat require a little less maintenance than the other types of doodles, but they still need weekly brushing and plenty of TLC. A fleece-coated labradoodle is the result of combining a curly wool coat gene with the gene for a straight coat. Areas such as the ears and collar are particularly prone to getting matted, so be sure to pay close attention to these areas when you brush your fleece-coated labradoodle once or twice per week. Hair Coat A labradoodle with a straight coat has inherited most of its fur genes from its Labrador retriever parent. Something interesting about Labradoodles is that their Labradoodle puppy coats change as they get older, so your hair-coated labradoodle might get a wave to its fur as it gets older. While you can also take it to a professional groomer on a weekly basis, this can incur hefty grooming costs. Most labradoodle owners opt to take their dog to a groomer once a month or two and do regular adult coat maintenance themselves. Use the correct type of dog brush and be sure to get all the way down to the skin. Give your dog a brush before and after bath time. All puppies eventually lose their puppy coat to make way for their adult coat, this goes the same with Labradoodle puppy coats. You might find the new type of coat is totally different from the old coat. Coats and Generational Differences The amount of hair your dog sheds varies between puppies, but generational differences can also play a role. First-generation doodles shed slightly more than second-generation doodles, with multigenerational Labradoodles shedding even less. We genetically test each breeding parent to make sure the shedding genes are not passed on to the puppies in our training program. We adore the breed and have a wide range of Labradoodle puppies for sale to choose from, with different color and type of Labradoodle puppy coats. We can even deliver a fully trained doodle puppy direct to your door if you like! Straight, double layered coat. Most similar to the Labrador parent. Moderate to high shedding. Wavy coat, most often single layer. Somewhere between the two parents. Low to moderate shedding. Very curly or corded fur, single layer. Most similar to the Poodle parent. Low shedding but the highest grooming needs. The above table explains the most common Labradoodle hair types at a glance. What Determines Labradoodle Hair Types? However, in later generations, breeders can increase the likelihood of certain traits, like a curly, low shedding coat. Australian Labradoodles can have genetic influence from up to 6 different breeds. So, they will often have fleece or wool coats that are single layered and low shedding, like the Poodle. Some breeders will specialize in certain hair types. By backcrossing a Labradoodle to a Poodle, for instance, they can increase the change of curly fur, resulting in fleece or wool type puppies. A first generation f1 mix is the most likely to have the hair type coat, since they often have the largest amount of Labrador influence. They will have a double layered coat with a straight top layer. Hair Labradoodles tend to feel quite coarse to the touch. Their double coat helps to regulate their temperature, but will also protect their skin from scrapes and cuts, just like the Labrador coat. The hair coat Labradoodle will shed the most, just like their Labrador parent. During the hot months, they shed heavily, thinning out their dense undercoat. For the rest of the year, they will shed moderately. But, this can be somewhat controlled with regular grooming. Groom them once a week in low shedding periods, and up this to two or three times a week during those hot months. It can also help to groom your hair coat Labradoodle outside, to avoid getting loose hairs in your home! Fleece Coat Labradoodle A fleece coat Labradoodle will usually look like the perfect mix between the Labrador and the Poodle! They will have a wavy coat, or very gentle curls that feel soft to the touch. In fact, many owners describe this hair type as feeling like angora wool. Some fleece Labradoodles may have an undercoat, but the majority will only have one layer. If left to grow long, their coat will develop a shaggy appearance. This type of Labradoodle is the most popular, and the one referred to by the term teddy bear Doodle! But, they can still be moderate shedders at worst. It will vary from one Doodle to another. They will need more grooming than a hair coat Labradoodle, as the waves and curls in their fur will be more prone to tangles and knots. You will need to groom a fleece Doodle a few times each week, if not every day. Their fur will either have very tight ringlet curls, or will be corded, like dreadlocks. Individual strands of fur will feel very coarse to the touch, much like the hair type. But, the wool coat only comes in a single layer. This coat type is extremely low shedding. But, this means that regular grooming is much more important, as tangles and knots are more likely. If left alone, their fur can become matted , which is painful and often requires shaving to fix it. Wool coat Labradoodles must be groomed at least once a day. Which Labradoodle Hair Type is Hypoallergenic? Wool and fleece coat Labradoodles can be low shedding, but no Labradoodle is hypoallergenic. In fact, no dog breed is completely hypoallergenic! So, a wool or fleece coat Labradoodle could still trigger your allergy symptoms. If you suffer from dog allergies, there are a few precautions you can take. Firstly, spend some time with a Labradoodle before committing. See if you react to their allergens, or if you can tolerate them. All dogs are different! So, one might not trigger you as much as others have in the past. Secondly, maintain a good cleaning regime. Ask another family member to groom your dog for you, and make sure they do so outside. You can take your Labradoodle to a professional groomer, but they will still need brushing in between trips. Fleece coat Labradoodles are the most popular variety of Doodle. This is because they are often low shedding and feel very soft to the touch, but they have slightly lower grooming needs than the wool coat Labradoodle. If you suffer from very strong allergies, you may be better suited to the wool coat Labradoodle, as long as there is someone else at home who can help you with grooming your dog every day. Labradoodle Hair Types — A Summary Though the three Labradoodle hair types are quite distinct, they can all come in a wonderful shade of Labradoodle colors. Wool and fleece coat dogs are usually better for owners that suffer from allergies. But, hair coats require less maintenance. So, choosing the right coat type for you will entirely depend on your lifestyle and needs! Which Labradoodle coat type is your favorite? We would love to hear your thoughts in the comments! Readers Also Liked. They get their coat colors from their parent. Whatever coat color they end up with is the result of either a dominant or a recessive gene. Sound confusing? Every Labradoodle puppy has two coat-color genes. They get one from each parent. Dominant genes are stronger than recessive genes. In order to have a recessive gene stronger, you would need two recessive genes — one from each parent. The actual genes are more important than the color. For instance, you may think that a black male and a black female would have a black puppy, but that may not be the case. The puppy can be brown if both of the black parents had a brown recessive gene. Since their coats were black, their second gene, the dominant gene, would have been black. Some colors, like black and red are dominant genes while brown and silver tend to be recessive genes. Some breeders are very dedicated to creating Labradoodles of certain coat color. This dog should not have its body shaved. What type of brush should you use? All Doodle dogs, regardless of coat type, will benefit from a slicker brush. Simply push a button, and hair trapped in the brush just falls out. As far as combs are concerned, a dual-purpose steel comb, like this one , is ideal. One side has thin, closely spaced teeth for detail work around the face and legs, and the other side has thicker, more widely spaced teeth for whole-body combing. The normal fleece should be brushed times per week and trimmed a times a year possibly more depending on the desired look. The super-soft microfine fleeced dog should be brushed regularly to prevent it from matting and to keep its asthma and allergy-friendly attributes. A coat that gets longer than 3 inches becomes more difficult to properly maintain. The original wool, which is soft like a lamb, needs to be brushed or combed thoroughly at least once a week and trimmed three or four times a year. The cotton wool coat has a softer texture than the original and is super dense. It requires a thorough brushing at least once a week and a haircut four times a year. You can bathe all Labradoodles as often as every week or as seldom as once every three months depending on how much time the dog spends outside. Be sure to use a high-quality shampoo so their coat stays healthy. This soap-free shampoo is our favorite hands down. It smells fabulous and does a super job of gently cleansing the coat without drying out the skin. The hair-coated Labradoodle generally needs the most frequent bathing to avoid odors. Labradoodle are adorable dogs regardless of their coat type. However, some coat types have advantages while others pose disadvantages. Hair coats are the easiest to maintain, whereas wool coats require combing once or twice a week. One drawback to the hair coated Labradoodle is that they tend to shed. HAIR: Again, easier to maintain but tends to shed. Failure to comb all the way through the hair will result in it becoming matted. Like the wool coat, the fleece coat must be thoroughly combed to prevent matting. This is especially important when they are shedding their puppy coat. Even if you keep the hair short, it will still need to be combed frequently. Come to find out, the coat closest to the skin has started to form mats. Mats are painful for the pup and can be avoided with regular and proper brushing. In fact, experienced breeders deliberately breed one generation to another generation just to bring out certain qualities. Using the knowledge of genetics and correct usage of dominant and recessive genes, breeders can breed specific dogs to get desirable colors. In generational breeding, you have F1, F2, F3, and multi-generational breeding. We explain these breedings more fully and share whether or not there are advantages in opting for a multi-generational Labradoodle in this article. With experience and research, breeders can create Labradoodles with a certain coat type. When you mix two purebred dogs of the same breed with the same coat type, your chances of getting the same kind of pups are good. Here is where the F generation breeding comes into play, and the generation chart looks like this. They generally will take an F1 and mix it with an F2 or F3 in an attempt to fine-tune it and bring out certain attributes and characteristics. Related Questions: Do Labradoodles have dander in their fur? Experts on dogs and allergies state that all dogs have dander and allergens, and that there is no such thing as a hypoallergenic dog. However, Labradoodles have the least amount of dander, and many allergy sufferers have found success having a Labradoodle as a dog. How often do Labradoodles need to be brushed? Labradoodles should be brushed anywhere from daily to once a week or so. The amount of brushing depends on the type of coat as well as the type of activities the dog does on a daily basis. However, the joy this loving, loyal, and intelligent pet provides makes it more than worthwhile. The most important thing you can do for your dog is to become as knowledgeable as possible. Related Posts:. Also, your fleece coats, while, overall, are softer than your wool coats in texture, still have some texture variation within the fleece coat type. The Australian Labradoodle requires varying degrees of grooming depending on their coat type. A light trimming might be required with scissors but usually not. However, we do not have any hair coat in Sunset Hills, because our puppies are all multi-gen. This coat usually requires trimming once or twice a year. This coat also requires trimming about three-four times a year. All allergy and asthma friendly labradoodles have a coat change from puppy to adult usually between months of age. During their coat change, it is recommended that you groom them daily. The coat change can last anywhere from a week to several weeks. This is usually the time when owners decide that their beautiful furry doodle needs a shorter look. Note: Not all Labradoodles are Allergy and Asthma friendly. We do recommend that if you have the opportunity to meet one of these wonderful dogs in person that you should check to see if you have any reactions before you make your decision in purchasing your new puppy. We recommend that any family or person who suffers from dog related severe allergies or asthma should look into a Wool coated labradoodle as they have the highest success rate. For labradoodle sizes, please go to our Size link. For pictures and definitions of the colours of the Australian Labradoodle, please go to our Colours link. For the information on grooming, please go to our Resource link. Each looks and feels very different, so it is important to understand the differences between them. Australian Labradoodles are known for being non-shedding and whilst most of them are due to their wool and fleece coats, the hair-coated dogs do shed to varying degrees, just like Early Generation Labradoodles. The good news is that any experienced breeder worth their salt will be able to tell you nice and early on if any of the litter have hair coats - it is usually pretty obvious by 4 weeks old. It is also worth noting here that we do not make any guarantee that any puppy will be non-shedding. We do our best to produce non-shedding dogs and we give our honest advice and opinion on our puppies coats, but we do not have a crystal ball and nature can do funny things. No breeder can genuinely guarantee that any dog will be non-shedding. Hover over each image to find out more about each coat type. Hover over each image below to find out more about each coat type. Wool Coat The wool coat is coarse in texture and very curly. It is sprung and therefore sits up off the dog's back giving the illusion the dog is bigger. This coat is very like that of the Poodle. It is non-shedding and is generally very compatible with allergy and asthma sufferers. Curly Fleece Coat The curly fleece is soft in texture with loose curls. It is not sprung, so it tends to straighten out a little when it grows longer. This coat type is what most people think of as the typical Australian Labradoodle look. It blows in the wind or when the dog runs! Hair Coat The hair coat is quite coarse in texture and feels like typical dog hair. It is usually short and flat and will not ever grow particularly long. It does shed to varying degrees and therefore is generally not compatible with allergy and asthma sufferers, Wool Coat The wool coat is coarse in texture and very curly. It is sprung and therefore sits up off the dogs back giving the illusion the dog is bigger. Curly Fleece Coat The curly fleece coat is soft in texture with loose curls. Hair Coat The hair is quite coarse in texture and feels like typical dog hair. It does shed to varying degrees and therefore is generally not compatible with allergy and asthma sufferers. Popular Links.
Some of these you can help prevent, while others are out of your immediate control. If your GSD carries the genes for ears that lie down, instead of standing erect, then more than likely they will have floppy ears. This means they may have ears that never stand up and are floppy for life. Breeding Some breeders choose to pair parents that both have large, erect ears. And some buyers and owners prefer this larger style of ears for show or aesthetic purposes. But, there is some theory that breeding a German Shepherd with larger and larger ears might contribute to ears that stay flopped over. Always see the parents of the puppy you buy from the breeder on the premises to see their appearance. Physical Damage or Accidents Puppies are active and mischievous and can get into plenty of trouble. This includes physical damage or accidents that have the cartilage or muscles in their ears. If this happens their ears may suffer long-term damage and not stand up naturally on their own. So watch out for a rough play that might lead to ear damage. And, if your pup has been in an accident that hurt their ears, take them immediately to the vets. Improper and Poor Nutrition German Shepherds need balanced nutrition during crucial growing stages, including vitamins and minerals that aid in cartilage and muscle development of their ears. You should ensure your dog gets the right nutrition from the start to avoid any issues. Along with Vitamin D, calcium helps strengthen the cartilage to aid in building a strong foundation for the ears to stand up later. Neglecting Ear Cleaning Puppies still need ear cleaning when dirt and build-up are overly present. Dirty ears that become neglected can inhibit proper growth and cause discomfort for your dog, causing them to excessively scratch their ears which can cause damage. This could cause them more harm! Instead, wipe away the dirt from the skin of the ear with a warm, damp washcloth or use special ear cleaning wipes. A dog with one floppy ear and one ear upright is totally normal. Occasionally, your German Shepherd might have one floppy ear and one ear standing upright. If they are a small puppy then they are most likely growing and the one ear down still needs time to go upright naturally. These are some of the best techniques that will help their ears to stand up. They only need to sit inside the ear enough to support cartilage growth. Make sure you check for any creases or folds in their ears before moving on to the next step. Repeat in the other ear. Make a Popsicle Support Now, take the popsicle sticks and place them at the top of the foam rollers both ears should have foam rollers in them at this point. You might need another pair of hands to help with this, so ask your family or friends to help. Take the self-adhering waterproof tape and place a medium-size piece across and around the two foam rollers and popsicle sticks. This ensures even and symmetrical growth. Make a bridge across their ears instead. If your German Shepherd puppy is 9 months old and their ears still flop over, please see your vet for further assistance. When in doubt, get your vet to show you what to do for their ears. Your puppy might become annoyed with the tape on their ears, so they may need close supervision and even some distraction during the taping process. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a German Shepherd that has floppy ears and putting them at risk to have any unnecessary surgery to get their ears to stand up can cause them pain. Speak to your vet about the side effects and pain associated with ear implants. You can help prevent floppy ears in your dog by taking the appropriate steps to keep them healthy. The top ways to help a GSD with floppy ears include: 1. Feed them a high-quality food Giving your dog the proper nutrition for optimum growth is a necessity, especially when they are puppies and growing rapidly. Choose a puppy food with the correct ratio of nutrients and vitamins to ensure they get the correct building blocks for development. When you choose to give them treats, pick ones from this list of the best healthy dog treats for German Shepherd puppies. Provide them with the proper chew toys Chewing helps to strengthen the muscles that surround the ears. Or worse… Injure them. Learn to play and discipline a German Shepherd puppy the right way to avoid accidental ear injuries or damage. German Shepherds with ears that are floppy are a joy to own, no matter their age! Floppy ears are adorable and give your dog even more character. Go on, and find out what makes your companion the happiest dog on the planet! She has a Bachelor of Science degree, with Honors, and has been training dogs for over a decade. Related Posts. Upright and relaxed This is a good sign and indicates a happy dog. Relaxed ears mean they are comfortable in their environment. However, ears back is a sign of a very uncomfortable dog. Submissive dogs will also flatten their ears a lot. Pricked or forward Ears forward means something is catching their attention. This is usually just curiosity. However, this ear position can also indicate unease and can escalate to aggression quickly. Use other body clues to help you, especially bared teeth. Flip-flopped Ears pointing in different directions floppy ears look adorable, but also tell you something about their mood. It usually means they have two focal points of interest, such as keeping an ear on you while tracking something moving behind them. Flicking It means that your dog is feeling unsettled. Rapid changes in ear position mean they might be feeling overwhelmed. A lot is going on in their head, and again, you need to pay attention and manage the situation as an owner. It could be that a lot of noise or stimulus is worrying them. They can also flick their ears if flies or bugs are bothering them or if there are other dogs nearby. This is a bit of an ambiguous description and can refer to two types of ear movement in German Shepherds. Your dog needs immediate reassurance or problems could follow. And if your dog is normally confident, or leans toward aggression, it needs immediate owner attention to reassure the dog, diffuse the situation, and take control. How to Calm an Anxious Dog? If your dog gives clear alarm signals, it may warn you of a danger ahead. You may need to break their intense focus. Distract them—turn and walk the other way a few paces—or start a new activity. Remember to teach your German Shepherd how to interact positively with other people and dogs. Start by soothing the dog with a calm, controlled voice. Reassure them. If your dog is naturally aggressive, you need to address this over time through positive reinforcement and dog training. Likewise, you may want to work with positive confidence-building techniques to give a naturally submissive dog more confidence in situations. Good socialization is always helpful for this. A confident and friendly dog feels secure. A submissive and fearful one is scared and can act unpredictably. However, pinned and flat ears are certainly a cause for concern. Should this happen, a responsive and responsible pet owner must immediately act. In the long-term, you should work on any fear or aggression in your dog and help them channel it in healthier ways. Well, there are a few different possible explanations. Causes can vary from age-related to genetic and medical issues. All puppies are born with soft, floppy ears. This is because the cartilage and muscles in their ears have not developed yet. Although some breeds, like Spaniels and Poodles, always have floppy ears, others, like most Shepherd breeds , almost always have pointy, pricked, upright ones. In such breeds, their ears should start to stand up between weeks of age as the bones and muscles in their bodies develop and strengthen. Are they both floppy — or is only one of them drooping whilst the other stands up normally? Teething Several young puppies experience floppy ears during teething. Teething is a period that all infant mammals go through, in which their baby or milk teeth fall out and their adult teeth grow in. It starts at around three weeks old and ends at months of age, although it can take longer. So, their bodies may draw calcium out of other areas, such as the ears, weakening their skeletal structure and making them flop. You may even notice that their ears look different every day during this period. They might be up-right one day, then floppy the next, or even change throughout the day depending on their mood. Their ears will return back to their original shape as soon as their hormones calm down. Although most German Shepherds have up-right ears, some can have floppy or semi-pricked ones. Judges of dog shows and competitions also often look for large ears in the breed. Poor nutrition during puppyhood As mentioned above, calcium is needed to develop and strengthen the cartilage in the ears in order for them to stand up. Vitamin D is also needed to keep bones healthy and strong. This is especially common in rescue dogs that come from puppy farms, homelessness, and neglectful backgrounds. Always buy from reputable breeders! Other symptoms of calcium and vitamin D deficiencies include muscle spasms and joint issues. If severe, nutrient deficiencies can be deadly. Both conditions require urgent veterinary attention, and treatments will likely include special diets and supplements. Similar to malnutrition, this is common in dogs that come from a background of neglect or homelessness. A build-up of wax, debris, or dirt can make the ears heavy and cause them to droop. Poor hygiene As we mentioned above, poor ear hygiene can lead to drooping of the ears. It can also lead to smelliness and infection. All dogs have self-cleaning mechanisms in their ears. However, allergies and hormone imbalances can cause disruptions to the mechanisms, meaning they require some extra care. Dogs can be allergic to environmental allergens like pollen, household cleaning products, and foods like wheat and dairy. Other symptoms of allergies can include skin irritation, coughing, sneezing, runny noses and eyes, and stomach upsets. Each has different symptoms, but they often include drastic changes in energy, coat, thirst, appetite, and weight. German Shepherds are also particularly prone to experiencing hormonal disorders. Ear mites Another cause of ear drooping in German Shepherds is ear mites. Ear mites can be picked up outdoors, or from coming into contact with another animal with the condition. The inflammation from the infestation can cause droopiness in the affected ear. Other symptoms include excessive itchiness, and redness, bleeding, and swelling from the constant scratching. If left untreated, the infestation can cause disease, which can lead to hearing loss and balance issues. Infection Ear infections can be bacterial or fungal, and they can affect both the inner or outer ear. They are most often picked up after exposure to water, and the inflammation can cause the affected ear to droop. Other symptoms can include redness, swelling, irritation, discharge, and excessive head shaking or scratching at the ear. Vets can treat ear infections with antibacterial or antifungal medications, but they need to be treated quickly before they spread or cause permanent damage. Trauma Physical trauma to the ears can also cause them to droop. The most common trauma that causes changes to the shape of the ears in German Shepherds are bites from fighting with other dogs. If your dog has a visible injury to their ear, you should take them to see their vet to check it over and dress any wounds to prevent infection. Make sure to brush your GSD regularly, also around the head and ears — these dogs shed heavily! You can get these over-the-counter at your vet, online, or in a pet store. You can also use a few drops of olive oil for wax build-up, but not too much. To administer, get a towel and ask your dog to lie down in a comfortable place in the home. Then, massage the mase of their ears for around 30 seconds to help it loosen any wax or dirt. Finally, allow your dog to shake their head and use the towel to catch what comes out. That said, if they have particularly problem ears, you should ask your vet and do it however often they suggest, which could be weekly or monthly. However, this is very controversial. It is not yet illegal in the USA, but it is also not something that we would recommend outside of medical necessity, as it can be unnecessarily stressful and painful for dogs. The method known as taping is done by placing something, usually tape, inside the ear to make it stand up straight and grow into that position permanently. It can be effective when done during puppyhood and usually takes weeks to work. As we mentioned above, nutritional deficiencies can cause the ears to flop. Puppies should eat nutritionally complete and balanced food that is enriched with calcium, vitamin D, and DHA for healthy bone and brain development, as well as high-quality protein sources like chicken and fish for strong muscles, and tasty, fiber-rich fruits and veggies. All puppies should have a handful of strong, hardy chew toys to avoid being destroyed during teething, but they can also help the ears to stand up. This is because the ears are connected to the jaw. So, strong jaw muscles means stronger ears, too! Finally, you should avoid playing too rough with your pup and interacting with boisterous dogs to prevent accidents and traumas, which, as we mentioned above, could damage or change the shape of their ears. Dogs communicate with us owners in many ways; they bark, they growl, and they use their bodies. Body language is a key part of understanding how your dog is feeling. Dogs use their entire bodies to communicate; including their tails, their eyes, and their ears! This often happens when a suspicious stranger or an unknown or unfriendly dog is approaching, or when there is a strange noise inside the home. When their ears go back or downwards, it could simply mean that they are listening, or it could indicate either excitement or anxiety. Excited dogs may whine, wag their tails very quickly, and run towards what they are excited about. This happens a lot when dogs are greeting a loved one. An anxious dog, on the other hand, may lower their head and cower their bodies away from what is causing their anxiety. If they are frightened, they may also tremble and whine, and if they are feeling angry or threatened, they may show their teeth and growl. This can happen when a dog is exposed to a phobia or an aggressive dog. It can be difficult to determine exactly how a mixed dog will look. Different pups from the same litter can also present with different traits from their siblings. That said, certain traits, like short hair, for example, are genetically dominant and therefore will be passed on over others, like long hair, which is genetically recessive. Dominant traits are those that require only one copy of a specific gene for the trait to be passed down to a pup. Recessive traits, on the other hand, need two copies; one from each parent. So, which is dominant; pricked or floppy ears? The answer is — floppy ears! Floppy ears are genetically dominant to pricked ears in dogs. That said, different ear shapes in dogs does tend to reflect their original working purpose. For example, the Spaniel, a gun dog, has floppy ears that gather and hold scent particles. This helped them track down what they were looking for much faster back in the day. German Shepherds, on the other hand, along with other wolf-like breeds, such as the Siberian Husky , have pricked, pointed ears. This is thought to aid their hearing during guard work, keep their body temperature under control during strenuous hunts, and give them an alert look to ward off predators. This may be why people are statistically more likely to perceive dogs with pricked ears as more threatening, according to research conducted by James Madison University, USA, in .This is not necessarily true, however, as any dog lover will know. It is likely down to something old and instinctual, as they also discovered that people perceived coat colors differently, too. The type of ears that a dog has can affect their hearing. Whether a dog has pricked ears or floppy ears, they have 18 different muscles that control them to funnel sounds from all different directions. A healthy-hearing dog of any kind can still hear from 40 to 60, hertz, which is more than double what human ears can hear! Starting out just training her own Border Collies, she gradually expanded to local classes and seminars, now she travels as far as Europe and teaches students all over the world on how to train their dogs in a positive, bonding, game-based way. She is known for her clear, step-by-step training that lets beginners and advanced dog trainers see lasting results very quickly.
They thrive on human interaction and love to be involved in everything their family is doing. Miniature Poodles are quick learners and excel at obedience training. Very eager to please their people, they are a great choice for first-time dog owners. Mini Poodles are usually good with other dogs and children, but they can be a little bit reserved around strangers. With proper socialization from a young age, your Mini Poodle puppy will learn to interact well with people outside of their immediate family. Expect your new for-ever family member to have a lot of energy and need plenty of exercise. They need an outdoor walk every day to keep calm and centered. Check out this best-selling dog leash with a comfortable handle! While walks are a must, the Mini Poodle is not suited to be an outdoor dog. This breed has a long history as a circus dog, so this dog is a favorite choice for owners who want an athletic puppy who is open to learning tricks. Some Mini Poodles are territorial and highly excitable, but patient and consistent training can usually modify this behavior. For all of these reasons, finding homes for our Mini Poodle Puppies for sale is never challenging. Minatare Poodle Health Considerations The average life span of the miniature poodle is 13 — 15 years. Use ear cleaner wipes and eye wipes regularly to remove crust or discharge. All breeds of dogs should be brought in for regular vet checkups. Miniature Poodle Coat The Mini Poodle has a hypoallergenic coat which is excellent for allergy sufferers. Matting eventually causes skin irritation. If your Poodle has a long coat, you should brush out your Poodle every day. Check out this popular dog slicker brush and detangling comb that is perfect for your Mini Poodle. While Miniature Poodles are a fairly low-shedding dog breed, they still need coat care. Many Poodle owners opt for a short cut or trim to minimize grooming needs. When a shorter cut, you can reduce brush outs to a few times a week and get the coat trimmed up every weeks. Mini Poodles Puppies For Sale. Life Span Did You Know? The Poodle is one of the oldest dog breeds and was originally developed in Germany to hunt waterfowl. The Poodle may have originated in Germany, but they are much-loved by the French. So much so that the Poodle is the national dog of France. The Miniature Poodle is slightly more recent. This Mini version likely originated in France. The Mini Poodle has all of the same characteristics as a Standard Poodle; they just come in a smaller package. The Miniature Poodle is one of the smartest dog breeds. On top of their intelligence, they are also known to have a cheerful disposition and a sensitive nature. They get along great with children. Due to their small size, they can be easily injured by rough play or accidental falls that can happen with younger children. Because of this, they may be better suited to a home with older children. Younger children should be fine as long as they are taught how to properly interact with a small dog and interactions between young kids and puppies are closely supervised. Although they are considered part of the Non-Sporting Group, some facts about Miniature Poodles are that they are versatile and athletic dogs that are also quite playful. Provided they are well-socialized, they get along well with other dogs and tend to do well with strangers. They do tend to be protective of their home and can be suspicious of strangers coming up on the property. They are known to bark to alert you of strangers coming to the house. This makes them a good watchdog, but overall, they are more interested in making friends. This dog breed is highly adaptable. The Miniature Poodle does well in any type of home, including apartments, and fits in with just about any family type. They do well in most climates, but, as with many dog breeds, they are sensitive to heat and extreme cold. Because Mini Poodles are people-oriented, they do not like being left alone and will not handle being left alone for long periods of time very well. Good breeding practices make a big difference in the health of puppies. Reputable breeders will screen their dogs to make sure they are not passing preventable issues to puppies. Make sure you ask the breeder about the health and genetic history of both parents and about any health tests or clearances that have been done. Miniature Poodles are highly intelligent, easy to train, and eager to please, which makes them a good fit for owners of any experience level and one of the best dog breeds for first-time owners. They are a people-oriented breed and are sensitive to moods and tones of voice. They do not respond well to harsh training methods or harsh tones as they take it personally, get their feelings hurt, and lose respect for you. A Mini Poodle tends to respond best to consistent training that is fun and focused on positive rewards. A Mini Poodle is one of the fluffiest dog breeds and will have a curly or corded coat that can come in just about any color. Although this dog breed has a low-shedding, hypoallergenic coat, their coat still needs a lot of grooming. They need to be brushed daily to prevent tangles and matting. They should also be professionally groomed every 4 to 6 weeks to keep their coat healthy. Miniature Poodles are high-energy dogs that require a good amount of exercise each day. Daily walks plus some playtime and other activities are usually enough for them. When puppies finish growing and developing, they often enjoy games of fetch and other activities like swimming, hiking, or jogging with their favorite human. Mini Poodles also tend to be great candidates for several dog sports, like agility, tracking, obedience, retriever hunt tests, and more. Just make sure to visit the vet and get your dog cleared for these activities before you jump in. Fully-grown Miniature Poodles usually stand inches tall and weigh pounds. Mini Poodles generally live for years on average. The Miniature Poodle was very popular among the French nobility. Featured Miniature Poodle Article. The poodle puppies for sale in Missouri through Sunset Acres Kennels are also highly trainable, intelligent, active, alert, and, maybe above all else, faithful. Sunset Acres Kennels specializes in providing Poodles that would make perfect pets as well as Poodle puppies that could one day be used for show. As Poodle breeders, we make it a priority to raise quality Poodle parents that produce happy and healthy Poodle puppies for sale in Missouri. Additionally, we offer a health guarantee that extends for 1 full year on genetic issues. That alone should make our available Poodle puppies look even more attractive to you than they already do. We even take the time to teach our customers about Poodles by breaking down information on their dog breed. This will ensure your satisfaction with our available Poodle puppies and put you in position to raise your puppy and love it for many years to come. Do you want to know more about one of the Poodle puppies for sale through Sunset Acres Kennels? Give us a call at today to express your interest in purchasing Poodle puppies in Missouri. Carly This beauty is Carly! She is a lovely female Poodle puppy with an adorable teddy bear face, and cute short legs. She has a wonderful petite compact body and a fabulous soft coat of hair. Carly is sure to be an eye catcher as she is definitely the pick of the litter! He is as handsome and loving as they come. He is Limited Registration. Chad will be sure to win your heart over with just one look. This little pup is always up for anything. He loves to play with toys…. Read more » Mickey Meet Mickey! 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golden retriever puppies east bay - Frenchies with tan points - black and tan Frenchie, blue and tan Frenchie, lilac and tan Frenchie, chocolate and tan Frenchie etc. Trindles - French Bulldogs which have brindle in their tan points. All black French Bulldogs - with no trace of brindle is also quite rare. How do you Artificially Inseminate a French bulldog? For the majority of dog breeds, natural mating is the most effective and cheapest way to produce a litter of puppies. This is not the scenario for French bulldogs. French bulldogs have unusually small hips and an oversized head. This makes it quite difficult for the male to mount the female naturally. When it comes to breeding French bulldogs, artificial insemination is the safest and most effective way. Caesarean sections for Frenchies One of the reasons why French bulldogs are quite expensive is because of the cost involved in birthing one. For Frenchies a C-section is usually considered the safest option. Caesarean section or C-section will involve the use of surgery to deliver the puppies. This is often necessary when a vaginal delivery will be too unsafe for the dam or the puppy or both. The oversized heads of the puppies and narrow pelvis of the dam makes it difficult for the dog to give birth naturally. What is the minimum mating age for French Bulldogs? Age of maturity differs from one dog breed to another. It has however been found that small breeds mature faster than large breeds. Male French bulldogs become fertile after about six months old. They can also reach full sexual maturity by 12 to 15 months. If your male Frenchie is healthy, he may even remain sexually active and fertile at old age. For your dam, their first heat season estrus comes after six months. In some situations though, this estrus has delayed for up to 18 months or even two years of age. The heat season of your dam should come at intervals of six months until old age. It is however considered controversial and against standard to breed your dam in her first season. According to the American Kennel Club Rules the registration of a litter out of a dam less than 8 months or more than 12 years of age is not ordinarily allowed. What is the Cycle of a French Bulldog Dam? Knowing the cycle of your female is necessary. This will help you track her reproductive periods. The cycle of a dam is divided into four: Proestrus: Your dam is in her proestrus when she has a bloody vaginal discharge and her vulva becomes swollen. This is when she attracts males, not for breeding. This period lasts for about nine days. Estrus: This follows the proestrus and also lasts for about nine days. During this time the female is fertile and will allow breeding. For breeding purposes, please note that ovulation will usually occur in the first 48 hours of this period. It is a period of about 60 to 63 days. It will occur whether or not your dam becomes pregnant. If your female becomes pregnant during estrus, the diestrus stage will last until she whelps or gives birth. False pregnancy is however also possible during this period. In this situation, your Dam may show signs of being pregnant even though she is not. Anestrus: This period lasts between three to four months. During this time, no sexual activity takes place. After the Estrus, you have to look for signs of pregnancy in your dam. These signs include an increase in appetite, weight, or nipple size. This is however not that conclusive in itself. As mentioned earlier, your dam may show pregnancy signs and still not be pregnant. A Vet can make this confirmation for you by conductingan ultrasound or X-ray or by examining her abdominal palpitation at 28 days. Once you have confirmed that your dam is pregnant, you have to start talking to the Vet about the special attention required for breeding a French bulldog. This will include how to identify emergency situations that would require immediate medical attention. This should also include details about her labor and what to expect after she gives birth. French bulldogs are like any other dog breed when it comes to pregnancy length. This period should last between 58 to 68 days. The average pregnancy period is usually 63 days from the day of conception. This is about two months altogether. A few days close to birthing, your dam may stop eating or have reduced appetite. Approximately 24 hours after her temperature drops,she can be expected to enter the first stage of labor when the cervix dilates and opens the birth canal for the passage of puppies. At this time, she will pant, strain, and appear restless. A few moments to birth, her body temperature may drop to 99 degrees or lower. This stage is then followed by actual abdominal straining and birthing. As mentioned above natural birth is not recommended for French Bulldogs due to their breathing difficulties and small hips coupled with larger puppy heads. Compared to other dogs that birth quite a sizable number of puppies, French bulldogs only birth a few. When breeding a French bulldog, the number of puppies you can expect in the litter will range from 3 to 5. There are some rare instances where French bulldogs have birthed as high as 7 puppies. French bulldogs are naturally small breeds. As such, a smaller number of litter mates would mean better conditions for the puppies inside the womb. The complications that may arise out of doing this will not only endanger the female, it may also create avoidable birth defects for the puppies. What is a pup back deal between French Bulldog breeders? A pup back deal is a puppy back to the Frenchie stud owner in exchange for the stud service. In most cases a puppy back is not ideal and can fall through for many reasons. If you insist on doing this type of deal you should consider the following to protect yourself: Always have a contract no matter who it is, even if it is a relative. Wording is very important. It is advisable to have a lawyer draft a sample agreement for you that you can use for future deals. Only make this deal with someone local that you really trust and have a relationship with. Open lines of communication is key. Always keep in mind that if the deal fall through for any reason it may sour the relationship so ask yourself if that deal is worth it to you. And finally know that not everyone is an honest person but on the same token not everyone is a dishonest person either. How do you know if two French Bulldog puppies are twins? It is rare but it does happen. How do we determine whether or not two French Bulldogs are identical twins? When the mother Frenchie dog is giving birth, count the placentas. If two newborn Frenchie puppies share a placenta there is a good chance you have some identical twins on your hands. If you want to know for sure your puppies are identical twins you can confirm that with a blood test. This is it for this Pawsletter. We hope you enjoyed reading or listening to this article and hope you learned something new along the way. We create these to educate, and inspire you to be the best French Bulldog owner you can be. If you want us to write about a particular topic please let us know below. Also don't forget to pawscribe to our email list. We always notify our loyal customers and friends with any new Pawsletter, event or announcement. We live in Oregon and will travel to Washington or northern California if needed. Michelle July 25, I have a tan Merle male looking to stud out in about months. I live in Oregon. JP July 10, Hello! Juan July 10, Hello! Please if anyone is interested to breed with my handsome boy you can contact me by email or text. Email denise. Thank you all and have a blessed one. In Houston, Texas!!! Julie June 23, Hello, in about a year I will be looking for a stud to mate with my two girls. I will need a stud that has had all his genetic testing plus eyes and hips. I live in California. He has a champion bloodline. Please contact me if interested. Misty June 23, We have a Blue brindle male with amber colored eyes and a blue piebald with blue eyes… just wondering what colors they may throw. Jason Lebron December 21, I have a blue Merle frenchie who will be 1 in January and I am excited to find his lover. Contact me anytime at or cruzpet Bronx ny bucks Lebron Rebekah Axelson December 14, I have a 3 yr old fawn male with black mask, black ears with white on his breast. Very muscular with lean and great personality. He has had DNA testing and has no allergies we know of. He has only in the last 7 months become extremely sexually driven with a need to breed. Because of his stamina and fit we feel having him fixed may take some of this away. .We have purchased aggressive chew toys and they usually work but there are days that the Boston terrier across the street goes into heat and he becomes very antsy and will even try to relieve himself. I would like to stud him for a puppy to have grow up with him preferably a female but not for breeding purposes. .I would then talk about options for having him neutered. I can also stud him for the possibility of buying a puppy with the stud fee. .I want what is best for him and feel he is a great color, fit and intelligent guy that having a litter would benefit him, myself and the Frenchie breed. Yet my goal and main concern is to give him relief without having him neutered at only 3 yrs Mary November 17, Hi, I have a 1. Thanks Hope November 12, We have a beautiful 8 month old male, who is a blue merle we are looking to offer stud service in the near future! Amazing quality, structure and genetics. If interest please contact me at for pictures and more info. Toure November 02, I have a 9 month old male frenchie fawn with the black mask that I am looking to breed in the NYC area. He has beautiful coloring and a spunky spirit. Warthog71 Excellent article! We have a brand new litter at 39 days old. The other girls have brown. All blue eyes may change to green. All pups carry Choco from the dad Isabella. The mom is standard Black Mask Fawn. All pups have their first round of deworming and are already eating solid food, though still nursing from mom, as is necessary for development. They are playing and curious and socializing like any normal, healthy litter. Contact for more info on this litter, future litters or stud service. Also, feel free to contact with any questions on the breed in general. We are all one big family. Steve Kazan info warthog.Champion bloodlines, IG CuzcoBusco. Michele Oneal May 24, Hi! I loved reading your article as I pick up my Puppy in 3 wks. His Dad competes and has won National Ribbons. My Breeder does DNA testing and has done this for 15 yrs. She does it for love, and will only sell to people that can stay home with her dogs. She is not interested in breeding for exotic colors but formation is key! I was Blessed to see one of her pups out with his owner at Lowes one day. It was by far the Best Frenchie I had seen! She truly is a lover and expert on them, which Is why I buying from her. We have a very beautiful Brindle male stud that is looking for a girlfriend. His name is Franc and he has the sweetest disposition! He loves to play with other dogs and children. He has a champion bloodline and we would love to have one of his babies! We live in Arkansas. If you are interested, please contact me ASAP at traci. God bless! Let us know if you have additional questions. Just like humans the body needs time to adjust and heal from a CS. We hope this helps. This breed is particularly renowned as a companion dog, and they love nothing more than being in the company of their human owner. And as an owner, you will be called upon constantly to satisfy each and every whim of your Frenchie. They can be hard work; take it from me, I own a demanding Frenchie! But what about a good old-fashioned belly rub? Everybody knows that dogs love getting their belly rubbed, but, what about Frenchies? Do they fall into this particular category, and is a belly rub something you will have to administer almost on a daily basis? Let me give you the low-down… Do French Bulldogs love belly rubs? Most Frenchies love having their belly rubbed and scratched. Why do Frenchies expose their bellies? The reason why your French Bulldog rolls on his back and exposes his belly to you is quite interesting. French Bulldogs roll onto their back when they are being submissive and during playtime. Claude loves having his belly rubbed and scratched, but it has to be on his terms when he wants it! You will see this happening a lot when you start to stroke your Frenchie. Occasionally he will flip over so you can get to his belly. However, you will also see Frenchies rolling on to their back and exposing their bellies when approached by other people or dogs. They could feel intimidated by it. Take things slow instead, as they could simply be submissive, rather than wanting play. Why do French Bulldogs like belly rubs? But why? What makes their belly being rubbed feel so good that they want you to do it? In simple terms, it feels good. We all have things we like having done to us, right? What the experts says about belly rubs We know that Frenchies like belly rubs because it stimulates their hair follicles, but why does this elicit such a pleasurable response? The body and brain like this, and therefore pleasurable signals fire off. Well, actually, yes, there are. Your Frenchie might not actually want you to touch his belly! But never flip your Frenchie over to rub his belly yourself. If your Frenchie lets out a growl when you are touching his belly, then stop immediately. Every dog has a different personality. They are plenty of other games they love to play here are some fun ideas. However, if your Frenchie does love having his belly rubbed, go for it! Why do dogs kick their legs when you scratch their belly? One strange little quirk you might see your Frenchie doing, is the leg kicking when you scratch or rub their belly. These are connected to his spinal cord, which then communicates to his leg muscles, telling them to kick to get rid of the scratch or irritant. You might also like…. Eyes dark in color, wide apart, set low down in the skull, as far from the ears as possible, round in form, of moderate size, neither sunken nor bulging. In lighter colored dogs, lighter colored eyes are acceptable. No haw and no white of the eye showing when looking forward. The leather of the ear fine and soft. Other than bat ears is a disqualification. The top of the skull flat between the ears; the forehead is not flat but slightly rounded. Muzzle Broad, deep and well laid back; the muscles of the cheeks well developed. The stop well defined, causing a hollow groove between the eyes with heavy wrinkles forming a soft roll over the extremely short nose; nostrils broad with a well defined line between them. Nose color Nose other than black is a disqualification, except in the case of the lighter colored dogs, where a lighter colored nose is acceptable but not desirable. Flews Black, thick and broad, hanging over the lower jaw at the sides, meeting the underlip in front and covering the teeth, which are not seen when the mouth is closed. The underjaw is deep, square, broad, undershot and well turned up. The back is a roach back with a slight fall close behind the shoulders; strong and short, broad at the shoulders and narrowing at the loins. The body is short and well rounded. The chest is broad, deep, and full; well ribbed with the belly tucked up. The tail is either straight or screwed but not curly , short, hung low, thick root and fine tip; carried low in repose. ForeQuarters Forelegs are short, stout, straight, muscular and set wide apart. Dewclaws may be removed. Feet are moderate in size, compact and firmly set. Toes compact, well split up, with high knuckles and short stubby nails. Hindquarters Hind legs are strong and muscular, longer than the forelegs, so as to elevate the loins above the shoulders. Hocks well let down. Toes compact, well split up, with high knuckles and short stubby nails; hind feet slightly longer than forefeet. Coat Coat is moderately fine, brilliant, short and smooth. Skin is soft and loose, especially at the head and shoulders, forming wrinkles. As with any breed, French bulldogs are predisposed to getting certain diseases. For example, many German shepherds are more likely to have hip problems. Cocker spaniels are more likely to get ear infections. Dachshunds are known for developing back problems such as intervertebral disc disease IVDD. French bulldogs have grown immensely in popularity over the last few years and are quickly becoming known for also developing intervertebral disc disease. In fact, some weeks I see more French bulldogs than I do dachshunds. Since IVDD is so common in French bulldogs, it can come on suddenly and can cause permanent inability to use the legs. Just like in people, the neck and back are made up of multiple bones lined up in a row. These bones are called vertebrae. The vertebrae surround and protect the spinal cord, which transmits information from the brain to the legs and from the legs back to the brain. In between each pair of vertebrae is an intervertebral disc that is shaped like a jelly donut. The disc has an inner jelly part and an outer donut part. Intervertebral discs act as spacers and cushions between the bones of the neck and back. In certain breeds, including the French bulldog, the jelly inside part of the disc can come out of the donut at high speed. When this happens, it hits the spinal cord, causing bruising and swelling. Additionally, it compresses the spinal cord. Symptoms of IVDD depend on where the disc problem is neck versus back and how severe the spinal cord injury is. Walking wobbly or drunk in all four legs. Sometimes French bulldogs may drag the toenails or occasionally stumble and fall in the limbs. Unable to walk in all four legs. Symptoms of a slipped disc in the back may include from mildest to more severe : Back pain, tense belly, not wanting to eat, crying when picked up and reluctance to jump. Walking wobbly or drunk in the rear limbs. They may scuff the toes or criss-cross the limbs. Unable to walk in the rear limbs, dragging of the rear limbs. While IVDD is the most common cause of spinal injury in dogs, there are other diseases that can look very similar. French bulldogs can develop spinal tumors, meningitis, infections, malformations and others. Additionally, French bulldogs tend to get worse faster than other breeds and are more likely to develop a life-threatening complication called myelomalacia explained below. For those reasons, we tend to recommend testing a little more proactively than we do in other breeds. An experienced neurologist can examine your pet, determine where the problem is, what the severity is, list the most likely cause and recommend the best course of action. Radiographs X-rays alone cannot diagnose IVDD, although it is useful in looking for other causes such as bony tumors, broken bones or bone infections. Myelography is an older test that is not recommended since it is more invasive and complications can arise. In general, there are two ways to treat IVDD. Crate Rest and Medication The first treatment option is crate rest and medications anti-inflammatory medications, pain medications, muscle relaxants, etc. This is appropriate for dogs with mild signs pain only or mild wobbliness when they walk. Crate rest involves being confined to a small crate approximately 3 x 4 feet for the average-sized French bulldog. Time outside of the crate should be limited to short walks on a leash and harness for minutes. Surgery The second treatment option is surgery. This is appropriate for dogs that are more severely affected difficulty walking, unable to walk , dogs with severe pain, dogs where the symptoms are getting worse despite rest and medications, or dog where the symptoms improve but come back later. There are a handful of factors that determine the likelihood of success. Diagnosis The first factor is getting a diagnosis. Since many other diseases can look like IVDD, confirming a diagnosis as opposed to just suspecting based on symptoms and X-rays is the most important step in success. Severity of Symptoms The second factor is the severity of symptoms. Dogs that have mild symptoms pain only, walking but wobbly have a higher success rate than dogs that have more severe symptoms inability to feel the limbs. Treatment Option The third factor is which treatment option is selected. However, some dogs that are severely affected unable to move or unable to feel may still have some residual weakness or incoordination. The main disadvantages are the need for anesthesia and the costs associated with MRI and surgery. Unfortunately, dogs that slip one disc are at risk for slipping another one at some point in their life. At Southeast Veterinary Neurology, we perform a preventative procedure on all French bulldogs that elect surgery for their disc herniation. What is Myelomalacia? Myelomalacia is a life-threating complication of IVDD. It occurs in dogs that are unable to move and feel the rear limbs. In some dogs, when the slipped disc injures the spinal cord, it can cause a chain reaction of progressive damage to the spinal cord that creeps down the spinal cord to the tail and up the spinal cord toward the front legs. As it creeps forward, the front legs become weak and then it becomes difficult for the dog to breathe. These symptoms can happen anywhere within the first week of losing feeling in the rear limbs. French bulldogs are much more likely to develop myelomalacia than other breeds. French bulldogs are incredibly popular and are truly part of the family. Since this disease is so common and is so devastating, we want to inform as many people as possible. Southeast Veterinary Neurology employs six board-certified neurologists and a team of experts that only treat neurological conditions.
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golden retriever puppies east bay - She has also been featured on TV as a dog behavior expert. Beverly has over 18 years of dog behavior training experience and specializes in dog aggression and anxiety training. There are 13 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. This article has been viewed 38, times. Unfortunately, this behavior can cause a lot of stress for the cat and make things tense between your furry friends. With a little patience, though, you can train your puppy to sit quietly whenever it sees a cat. All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Wait for your puppy to start barking on its own. Otherwise, you might encourage your puppy to bark all the time. The AKC advocates for the responsible ownership of dogs and promotes purebred dog events, such as the Westminster Dog Show. For instance, go to a quiet room in your home with the curtains drawn. This would only distract your puppy. Your puppy will probably stop barking immediately, since it will be paying attention to the treat. You can also use a gesture, such as holding up your hand. Give the command calmly and quietly. Alternative: You can also quiet your puppy by gently closing its muzzle with your hand, using a head halter, or distracting it with a loud noise, such as shaking a can full of coins. Even if you use one of these methods, you should still reward your puppy with treats for staying quiet. Eventually, it should stop barking as soon as it hears the command, without you having to offer a treat! Remember to offer plenty of praise and treats if your puppy responds. If your puppy keeps barking at the cat, quietly remove the puppy from the situation. Go to source Try to spend at least 15 minutes a day training your puppy. Just be patient, and expect mistakes and slip-ups from time to time. Once the puppy learns your chosen command, give the command any time the cat is nearby. This way, your puppy will be focused on obeying the command instead of barking at the cat. Go to source Use a calm, friendly voice, since both your dog and your cat will sense and react to any hint of frustration or anxiety. For example, wait for a moment when your puppy is calm, then let your cat into the room. You can remove the leash once the puppy is able to consistently obey the command around your cat. If your puppy sits quietly when you give the command in front of the cat, reward it immediately. Go to source If the puppy ignores your command and starts barking, gently lead it a few steps away from the cat and try again. Keep moving away until the puppy is able to focus on your command. If it keeps barking at the cat or is too excited to focus, take your puppy out of the room and try again later. If the cat stays close by and the puppy remains quiet, continue to praise and pet your puppy. You can also offer a favorite toy to keep your puppy distracted while the cat is in the room. Go to source After a while, your puppy should start automatically looking at you and waiting for your command whenever it sees the cat. It may take a lot of repetitive reinforcement before your dog really gets it! Tip: For the first few days or weeks of training, you can also keep feeding the puppy treats as long as the cat is present. As soon as the cat leaves, stop giving the treats. Your puppy will start to associate seeing the cat with the thought of sitting quietly and eating treats. Take turns letting each of the animals out to roam around so they can investigate and smell each other around the home. Then, crate your puppy or put it in another room and let the cat out. Your puppy will be less likely to start barking when it sees the cat if it's already familiar with the cat's scent. If this behavior continues after 2 days, then you might need help from a professional trainer, who can work with you on more advanced training techniques. Before the first introduction, you might find it helpful take your puppy on a long walk. Cats tend to feel more secure when they can get up high, so choose a room where your cat can climb up onto a tall scratching tower or jump onto a shelf. Attach your puppy to a leash so that you can keep it under control whenever your pets are together in the same room. Eventually, you can build up to longer interactions. If possible, have someone else in the room at the same time so you can each pet, praise, and treat both the puppy and the cat for good behavior. If your puppy gets overexcited and starts barking, take it out of the room. Similarly, take the cat out if it starts hissing, growling, or trying to swat the puppy. You may need to go back to keeping them in separate rooms for a longer period if this is a consistent problem. Alternative: You can also try keeping the puppy in a crate or enclosure while the cat wanders freely around the room. This way, they can get used to being around each other while the puppy is still contained. Once the puppy is calm while the cat is in the room, move on to leashed interactions. Any time you have the cat and dog together, try offering your puppy a favorite toy, such as a Kong or an activity mat. This way, the puppy will focus on the toy instead of barking at the cat. Eventually, your puppy should become used to having the cat around while it plays quietly by itself. Keep doing leashed visits between your puppy and cat for several weeks so that they can get used to each other. Wait until the cat seems calm around the puppy and is eating and using the litter box normally. Keep them contained in separate rooms or put the puppy in a crate that can close securely. That should give you enough information to know what to expect. Do French Bulldogs bark a lot? Our own Frenchie will very rarely bark. However, our friends Frenchie is a BIG barker. To get a wider spread of opinion, I decided to run a poll survey in one of the largest Frenchie Facebook groups to see what other owners said about barking problems I had 63 responses. The first question I asked was: Does your French Bulldog bark a lot? However, I did expand the question, telling people to only say yes or no if the barking was a problem. Do French Bulldogs bark? They have evolved to be companion dogs for humans, rather than a breed designed to be a guard dog. What does a French Bulldog bark sound like? They have their own language of yodels, screams, chirps, warbles and what can best be described as snorfles. Just like any other breed of dog, French Bulldogs will bark for a wide range of reasons. During my survey of owners a few common barking reasons came up time and again. In the main, barking was reported for the following reasons: Barking to be protective towards their owner: for example, when strangers approached or if the doorbell rang. Barking for attention: for example, wanting to play, wanting to be fed, or wanting to be let out of the house. Barking at other dogs: some owners of Frenchies particular females who had not been spayed yet reported aggressive barking towards other dogs. Barking when left alone: this was very common and would occur when an owner left the house or sometimes even a room. Barking when left in the crate: this is probably an attention thing again. Barking when in pain: it could be your Frenchie trying to tell you that they hurt. What do French Bulldogs bark at most? Of the people who completed my survey and reported barking, I then asked them what their French Bulldog would bark at the most. Here are the most popular responses. Here are the most popular reasons why Frenchies bark according to owners I surveyed. To look into this further, I then asked for specific examples, some of which I have listed below in a question and response format. Do French Bulldogs bark for attention? Yes, French Bulldogs can bark for attention. It can be their way of communicating to the owner that they either want something or there is a problem. Many times, they will simply bark for fun. A Frenchie that constantly barks at everything and everyone could be signalling to you a health problem, anxiety, or a behavioural issue relating to territory or fear. Do French Bulldogs bark loud? According to Cheatsheet. Do French Bulldogs bark when left alone? Some French Bulldogs will bark when left alone. Our friend has a younger Frenchie who has separation anxiety. The puppy will bark as soon as the owner leaves the house, and this has proved to be a problem with their neighbors. If you have a Frenchie who barks when left alone then read this guide to separation anxiety. That has some tips on how to manage the barking problem with dogs who get left in the house for a few hours. French Bulldog barking problems When I first put my survey out there to ask owners whether their French Bulldog barked a lot, I had loads of comments back from some who had a problem. It could help you if you worried about why your French Bulldog is barking a lot. At babies and kids. At cars or in the car. At cats. At everything and everyone… all the time. At guests and house visitors. At horses and other animals. At new people when meeting for the first time. At night when left in the dark to sleep. At other dogs. At the sound of the TV or radio. For attention. When the door knocks or doorbell rings. When left alone and bored. When left in their crate. To be territorial or protective of their owner. To tell you then need to be let outside for the toilet. To tell you that they are in pain or distress. If you believe your Frenchie is barking at you to signal a medical issue, then consult with your vet. However, for any other reasons there are some things you can do to stop a French Bulldog from barking at new people, at everyone, when you leave the house, out of the windows, or for whatever reason it could be. How do I get my French Bulldog to stop barking? You can see how this method work with this infographic from the Dog Training Excellence website. Repetition is key to this training method. Infographic copyright dog-training-excellence. Dogs will react to human behavior and will often mirror us. That means if you shout at them to stop barking, they can then bark even more. When you shout at a dog, they consider this as aggression and will either counter it back with increased barking or will retreat and become scared. A scared animal will be far harder to train to stop. Ignore the barking Many Frenchies will bark for attention. This can work very well with attention-seeking puppies where you only reward them once the barking has stopped completely. This should help them to learn that when they stop barking they get rewarded. Get him used to the triggers You can also stop your French Bulldog from barking by getting them used to the triggers. You can do this by ringing your doorbell, giving the quiet command, and then offering a reward. The key here is repetition, familiarity, and reward. Keep your dog active and exercised Some Frenchies will bark due to boredom and a lack of stimulation. Ask yourself whether you are exercising your Frenchie enough, or whether they have enough toys to keep them mentally active. Get professional help And lastly, if you cannot get your Frenchie to stop barking at everything, it could be time to seek professional help. Your vet will be the first port of call, and they will often recommend you talk to a dog trainer once any health issue has been ruled out. What other owners say As part of my research and survey I trawled social media to find instances of Frenchie owners who had reported problematic barking. Here is some of the best advice I found that people suggested to help train your French Bulldog to stop barking. We took are pup everywhere we could and let people pet her and hold her, we introduced her to other dogs as much as possible. Our Frenchie rarely barks now and only when she wants attention or up on the couch or bed. Not a regular treat but the best treat ever! Call her to you and begin feeding nonstop treats. Literally just keep popping treats into her mouth. As soon as the person is out of view, stop the treats. Strangers will be her best friend. Frenchies are definitely better in pairs. Think about it nobody wants to be alone and two is better than one. But they are not a consistent barking dog, although we did have one! If your Frenchie does have problem barking, try to establish the root cause and work to train the reaction out of them. This breed is relatively easy to train, and in most cases, you should be able to get your French Bulldog to stop barking with patience and a little hard work. You might also like…. Sometimes, a dog can live with certain cats depending on their age, temperament and activity level , but not others. Even if your dog has successfully lived with cats in the past, it is important to remember that each dog and each cat is an individual and therefore each introduction is different. When introducing your dog to a cat, pay attention to the body language of both animals. You particularly want to be aware of dog body language that could be potential warning signs. If your dog has a strong prey drive the inclination to seek out, chase and potentially capture animals seen as prey — usually smaller animals such as cats or rabbits , she might become very focused on the cat. If you see these signs, do not let her near the cat. Ideally, her body language will be loose and relaxed around the cat. She might fixate on the cat and start stalking him when they are outside together. So, be aware of her body language around the cat in each new situation, until you know how she is going to respond toward him. There are many different ways to introduce a dog to a cat. Even if the dog has had experience with cats and the cat has lived with a dog before, proceed cautiously during the introduction. If you have more than one dog, introduce each dog separately to the cat. Put the cat in a room e. The idea is to separate them and only allow them to view each other during specific times. In his room, give the cat all needed supplies: litter box, toys, food and water. Keep in mind that cats are good at squeezing through small gaps and are also good climbers and jumpers. The gate needs to be a barrier that allows the cat and dog to see one another, but does not allow them to access each other. To begin desensitization, let the dog view the cat briefly through the gate, and then get the dog to focus on something else, such as playing with a toy or practicing cues. Sometimes it helps to keep the dog on leash so that you can move her away from the cat when you try to refocus her attention. Praise and reward the dog for being able to focus elsewhere. Continue to give the dog short viewings of the cat throughout the day. Sometimes, even seeing the cat at first is too exciting for the dog. If this is the case, close the door and begin feeding each animal on his or her side of the door: The cat eats his food in his room, right next to the door, and the dog eats her meal on the other side of the door. This allows each animal to associate the smells of the other with something good: food. You can also swap out the blankets and bedding of each animal, giving it to the other. In some cases, the dog will lose interest in the cat within a couple of hours, but it can take days, weeks or even months. Each dog and each cat is an individual and will learn at his or her own pace. With that said, though, it is possible that your dog may not ever be able to safely share space with a cat. Many dogs can injure or kill a cat very quickly, and your dog can also be injured by the cat. Your first priority should be ensuring that everyone stays safe. Option 2: Face-to-face introduction This is a more fast-paced introduction. If the cat is not raising his back or hissing around the dog, he can be allowed to move around freely. A cat is rarely a threat to a dog, but some cats will be on the offensive when meeting dogs. If the dog is calm around the cat, you can ask the dog to sit, or lie down and stay, if she has been taught those cues, while the cat moves about freely, sniffing the dog if he wishes. The dog should be praised and rewarded if she ignores the cat. If the dog is too fixated on the cat e. Option 3: Look at That If the quick introduction did not work and your dog is not becoming desensitized to the cat, you might need to try some more structured training. That is her threshold. Each dog has a different threshold. For one dog, five feet away from the cat might be her threshold; for another dog, it might be 25 feet. Put 10 treats in your hand and keep the bag close by for later. When you see the dog looking at the cat, click the clicker or use your verbal marker and give her a treat. The first few times, you might have to put the treat right in front of her nose, but fairly soon she should start looking expectantly at you as soon as she hears the marker. Use up the 10 treats, clicking as soon as she looks at the cat. The 11th time, before using the marker, wait and see if she will look at the cat and then look right back at you. If she does that, either click or use the verbal marker when she looks at you and then give her a treat. Mark her 10 more times for looking at the cat and then try again. Once she is reliably looking at the cat and then looking back at you, you can slowly start moving closer and closer to the cat. As you train, her threshold decreases, which means that the two of you will be able to move closer and closer to the cat. Continue practicing LAT with your dog until she can be right next to the cat without an issue. Introducing kittens and puppies If you are introducing a kitten to a dog, keep in mind that kittens may not have any fear of dogs, so you must watch the dog carefully. If your dog is young and high-energy, she could hurt or kill the kitten simply by trying to play. Introducing adult cats to puppies can sometimes be easy, since a well-socialized adult cat might be fine with a puppy acting like a puppy. However, if your rambunctious puppy is chasing your shy cat, it is up to you to intervene. Until the puppy is old enough to have more self-control and has had some training, you will want to manage their interactions. Baby gates can be used to keep the animals safely and comfortably apart. To help you keep an eye on your puppy, you can also put her on a leash. That way, if she begins to chase the cat, you will be able to easily direct her away from that behavior. Seeking help from a professional Animals with good past experience often adjust well and quickly to a new pet in the house. Primary Sidebar.