french bulldog and pug mix puppies for sale

Pugs will eat as much as you give them. Measure your pug's food and feed him small meals at scheduled times. As he ages, decrease how often he eats. He should eat four times a day. High-quality dry foods and wet foods are nutrient-dense, so your little guy will not need as much of it as he would lower-quality foods. You can find high-quality puppy foods in pet stores and at your veterinary clinic. Avoid semi-moist puppy foods because they contain high amounts of sugar. Adjust the amount so he is still getting his daily requirement. He may want more; but as long as he is at a healthy weight, don't start giving him extra food. Pugs gain weight easily. Obesity in pugs can lead to muscle and joint problems, diabetes and heart disease. It is doubtful that you will need to increase the amount of food per day even though your pug is growing. Your vet may suggest that you decrease the amount of food if your pug is starting to gain weight. Some owners prefer to continue the twice-a-day feedings because pugs have a smaller stomach than larger dogs. It's hard for them to digest a large amount in one feeding. It is now time to consider adult food. Introduce the new food slowly so he doesn't have difficulty digesting it. If you are concerned that your pug is not getting enough to eat, look at his shape. He should be broad at the shoulders and narrower beyond the shoulders, with a slight widening in the rump area. If his shape is square, he is getting too much food. More Articles. You may find yourself on the dog food isle trying to make sense of all the ingredients, types of foods and categories. And all you want to know is… How often and what should I feed my Pug? Every dog is different, every type of food has its specific quantities and it even varies between brands. Start simple and figure out all the details and methods. I have collected information about the different types, brands pros and cons of dog feeding to try and give an unbiased as much as I can look, so you can make a better-informed choice which will be right for you and your Pug. Remember, people care deeply about their dogs and will often get very emotional about the health and feeding they chose. Having been the owner of a pet store, I have learned that although I have my personal preferences and very good reasons for them, others may have different choices and they believe they are the right ones for them. There are a lot of issues to consider. How Many times a day should I feed My Pug? A mature Pug can easily live a healthy life with one meal which provides all his nutritional needs. In most cases, it is more convenient for both us and the pug to split this to two meals. If your Pug had a full meal in the morning, be sure he will nag you like crazy in the afternoon. Puppies have smaller stomachs and need, relative to their size, a larger quantity of food so it is better to break it up to three or even four meals a day. If you are around your Pug all day and prefer to give 4 meals a day to a mature dog, there is no harm in it, as long as the overall daily quantity stays the same. Free Buffet or Set meals? Pugs are notorious for becoming overweight and need to be limited to a set amount. If your Pug is not typical in that sense, you are welcome to put the full daily portion in the bowl and see how long it lasts. One more reason for set meals is monitoring. You want to know how much you Pug eats. If you want your Pug to lose weight, you need to know how much he is eating in order to cut down. On the flip side, if your Pug is not eating the usual amounts it may be an indication of a medical condition. What food do Pugs Eat? Pugs love food. They love treats, dry food, wet food, table scraps, raw meat, cooked meat, spicy meat and meat gone bad. In rural areas and farms, they may have also got more meaty scraps. Our Pugs who grew up with Emperors and Royalty were probably treated to high quality scraps. Today, dry bagged kibble or canned wet food are the standard for most homes, although there is a growing number of people and companies promoting more natural diets of either raw or cooked food for dogs. Every type of food claims to be the healthiest, more appropriate, tailored and nutritional. Kibble Kibble is the most common dog food available and has become the staple for the average dog. Pros of Kibble The makers of dry food claim it has the most balanced and scientifically based formulas to provide the best nutrition for a dog. They also tailor these formulas to dogs of different size, breed, age or other needs. Even the most discerning dog owners should be able a composition to satisfy them. The ingredient list is unclear and misleading. There are numerous food recalls yearly. There are websites dedicated just to keep up with the recalls. Teeth are going to need cleaning. Wet canned food Aside from the meatier texture and the higher water content, there is little difference between kibble and the canned, wet counterpart. The ingredients can be similar and so are the health benefits. Some dog owners report that wet food makes for softer stools when fed exclusively. Many dog owners will give a combination of wet and dry food. Home cooked As with human food there is a growing number of people fed up Pun intended with commercial and over engineered food. Raw food Also called the BARF Biologically Appropriate Raw Foods , the idea behind it is that the dogs digestive system has not evolved as their behavior, and much like wild dogs or wolves, they should eat the equivalent to small animals they would pray on in nature. Since dogs are also scavengers this diet will include some vegetables, berries etc. The pros As with the home-cooked diet, you have total control of ingredients and quality No preservatives, additives, fillers etc. You need to learn how to make, takes time Ingredients like bones and internal organs may not be available in your area. Can be pricy. Even More expensive if buying ready and frozen. Takes freezer space Raw Disclaimer I am a little bias towards raw food. I used to own a pet food store specializing in raw food for cats and dogs and I have been feeding my own Pugs raw food for over twelve years. Obviously, I am very happy with the raw diet and its outcomes as switching to dry food would have been easy and cheap. I believe it is the better choice for myself and my dogs. I believe I have presented the facts fairly objectively as far as the other feeding options go. There is no standard or way to measure what natural is and what the added value of it is other then the origin of it. Natural color could come from some secretion of an insect. Special Needs Puppies These little ones need the most nutritious and high-quality food you can find. If you want to find an economic way to feed your dog, please do it later in his life. Allergies Pugs are relatively sensitive to allergies. In some cases, this is due to an external source such as home detergents, but more often than not it has to do with their diet. There are a few brands that you can try with low, or no grain. If you are feeding your pug home cooked food or a raw diet, taking the carbs and grain out would be easy. Our Pugs were and are on a raw diet from day one and we never had any issues with allergies, except for one time. We started noticing that Preston had pinkish skin around his paws and around the nose fold. Since we owned a pet food store specializing in raw food, at the time convenient, I know we tried different types of meats, but nothing helped. It took us some time to realize the cause. We had our baby daughter at the time, and since she was very close and intimate with Preston, and he was eating raw, we made sure to wipe his mouth and feet with baby wipes after every meal. The baby wipes were the culprits. We switched them both to hypo-allergenic wipes and the skin went back to normal… Hip Dysplasia Pugs are ranked as one of the breeds with the highest chances of suffering from Hip Dysplasia. This can lead to trouble in walking and running and arthritis may follow as well. If your Pug is suffering from Hip Dysplasia to any extent you may want to either supplement their diet with Chondroitin and Glucosamine or to choose a brand that is made for joint support. Vets and nutrition. Having said that, if I needed nutritional advice, I would go to a nutritionist and not to my Doctor. The nutrition training vets get in many schools is provided by agents of the commercial food companies who are bias at best. Skipping meals Dogs will sometimes skip a meal. It is natural for them as food is not something that was always available on daily base. It is not typical for Pugs but it may happen. If it happens it will probably be a one meal deal. If your Pug misses a few meals in a row you may want to consult a vet. Treats and snacks I try and think of treats and snacks the same way I think of candy for my daughters. If the amount of treats your Pug is rivals the actual food, in quantity, you should reconsider or at least re calculate it. If you are using kibble both at meals and as treats for training, and your stubborn Pug ends up consuming a lot of treats, just take it off the next meal. The same goes for snacks. They should be a part of the total daily feeding and not extra. How long can a pug go without eating? An adult Pug can probably survive many days without food, but no Pug would stand for it. Unless your Pug has a medical condition, he will surely let you know he is hungry. Do make sure that your Pug is not deprived of fresh drinking water at all times. More so if the weather is hot and if he is on a dry food diet and has no other source of hydration. What if my Pug is overweight? Pugs love to eat and have a tendency to eat too much. A chubby Pug is very cute, but at some point, it becomes a health issue. Overweight Pugs may suffer from a wide range of conditions and or aggravate others. Conclusion Food is an important part of your Pugs life and will directly affect his health and well-being. Do make sure you know what your Pug is eating, the quality as well as the quantities. Actually, yes. This is an actual condition called Eye Displacement or Proptosis. It is not a common occurrence but with extreme trauma or circumstances it may happen. In most cases the condition is treatable. More on the condition here… Are Pugs Loving? Pugs have been bred as companion dogs for over two thousand years. Being with people is almost in their DNA. So yes, Pugs love to cuddle, snuggle and just be in contact or as close as they can to their human friends. More on Pug Love here. Still, you may discover information about how much to feed a Pug puppy here if you were unaware of the specifics before. Pugs are very food-motivated and will do just about anything for a tasty treat. Unfortunately, pugs gain weight as fast as any other dog breed. You are, supposedly, what you eat. The pug is a little dog, so even a slight increase in weight might be noticeable. Because of their tiny stature and low activity levels, pug pups have a lower caloric need than puppies of other breeds. Because of their unique nutritional needs, small-breed puppies should be fed food that has been developed particularly for them. Furthermore, make sure the puppy food you choose has all the nutrients it needs, and ask your physician for recommendations on how much and how often to feed the puppy. By the age of three to four weeks, you may begin feeding your puppy solid food. Mix equal parts of puppy chow and milk replacer as a first step. Give a little bit teaspoons many times a day. Weaning off of milk and onto solid food is complete when a pug puppy reaches this age. Independence from their mother and siblings and other littermates may begin to emerge. Puppies may start interacting socially and maturing rapidly at this age. Water should be kept fresh at all times. This is a good age to start teaching children to use the restroom without assistance. At this age, pug pups are full of energy and wonder. As they become older, puppies often become more receptive to training and socializing. There may be a period of boundary testing when they need constant guidance in training and socializing. Baby teeth may start falling out and adult teeth emerging in puppies. Proper potty training should have been completed. They may begin to express themselves more openly and build their own identities. Get started on the changeover to puppy food for adult dogs. They may test limits and need ongoing socialization and discipline. Make sure they get lots of exercise to keep their weight in check. Their interests and preferences in playthings and other pursuits may become more clearly defined. Maintain a high volume of physical activity and intellectual challenge. Pug pups achieve their full size at this point, however they may continue to gain weight. As puppies become older, they often become more devoted to their families and develop stronger bonds with them. The amount they eat should be adjusted based on their weight. At reaching adulthood, pugs often slow down and spend more time lounging. They may set in their ways, but they can still be taught new tricks with enough repetition. Aging symptoms in adult pugs include the development of gray hair and a general slowing down of activity. Understanding Pug Puppy Nutritional Needs Depending on factors including their age, weight, and level of activity, the calorie needs of Pug puppies might change over time. Pug puppies, on the whole, may need anything from to calories each day. The food of a Pug puppy should consist of between 22 and 25 percent protein, since this is the macronutrient most crucial for promoting healthy muscle and tissue development. Consuming between 8 and 10 percent of their calories from fat is recommended for optimal health and energy levels. To maintain a healthy skin and coat, they need omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids as well. High-quality commercial puppy chow designed for pups is what you should be feeding your Pug. The growth and development of pug pups may be supported by feeding them multiple little meals throughout the day. Feeding them three to four times a day till they are roughly six months old is the norm. To figure out how often and how much to feed your Pug puppy, talk to your vet. Having access to clean water at all times is also crucial. Puppies of the Pug breed need three meals every day. For ages 8 weeks to 6 months, try to stick to this schedule for feedings. As soon as your Pug reaches 6 months of age, you may begin reducing the number of times each day it is fed to twice. Kibble is practical since it may aid in the prevention of tartar accumulation and can be stored easily. Yet, the added moisture provided by wet foods may aid in the fight against dehydration and support efficient digestion. Wet food may have a better texture and flavor for certain Pug pups, while kibble may be a better choice for others. You should talk to your vet about what kind of food and how often you should feed your Pug puppy. Yet the specific time might vary from dog to dog based on their nutritional requirements. To prevent stomach trouble, the change should be made slowly over the course of a few weeks. Puppy anorexia may be caused by several things, including sickness, dental issues, stress, and dietary or habit changes. In the meanwhile, you may try introducing a new kind of food or moistening their normal kibble with a little quantity of wet food or broth to pique their interest. Do not feed your Pug puppy any human food or table scraps since this might cause gastric discomfort and other health issues. Pugs have a tendency toward becoming overweight and overeating, which may lead to a host of medical complications. Instead, you should make sure your Pug puppy is receiving the right quantity of food by sticking to a regular feeding schedule and controlling portions. This may improve general conduct and aid in the process of teaching toilet independence. This formula is designed for purebred Pugs. Little dogs with short muzzles may easily pick up and chew the kibble design. This meal supports Pug immunological, skin, and digestive health with antioxidants and important nutrients. Supports digestive health 2. Calcium, phosphorus, and vitamins strengthen bones and teeth in this specifically prepared combination. Vitamins, chelated minerals, and antioxidants for immune system, Omega 3 and 6 fatty acids for skin and hair No corn, wheat, soy, or chicken or poultry by-product meal Cons May contain artificial flavors 3. This puppy chow supports strong muscles and a healthy heart by starting with high-quality protein. Antioxidants and natural glucosamine will maintain his joints for a lifetime of sports. Pros Protein-rich chicken is the first ingredient DHA aids puppy brain and visual development Four antioxidants boost immunity Omega-6, vitamins, and minerals for skin and coat No artificial flavors or preservatives. Best Dog Foods for Pugs Choosing the right dog food for a Pug is essential as this will ensure that it gets proper nutrition. However, this can be challenging and time-consuming, considering that there is a lot to choose from. Whether you choose to feed your Pug commercial, homemade food, or raw food, make sure that they are of good quality and recommended by a trusted veterinarian. Proper nutrition is one of the factors that affect their lifespan. Below is a list of the best dog food choices for your Pug: Dry Food: One of the best options for Pugs is dry dog food as it is widely available, cheap, and has a long shelf life. These are packed with all the nutrients essential for your Pug. Wet Food: Wet dog food is another good option for Pugs. Its flavor and texture make it more appealing to Pugs than dry food. Wet food contains fewer grains, making it healthier and easier to digest. However, wet canned food has a shorter shelf life and should be consumed immediately after opening. Wet foods are also more expensive than dry foods. Homemade Food: Your Pug may benefit from cooked food consisting of chicken, eggs, fish, rice, and vegetables. The process is time-consuming, but it is less expensive and more convenient in the long run, especially if you plan on giving them a grain-free diet. Raw Food: Raw food diet for most Pugs results in better digestion, healthy skin, and a stronger immune system in Pugs. Mixing any of the aforementioned food choices is also good. Hence, you may want to try dog food alternatives to fit your budget. With their sensitive little stomachs, some foods can be poisonous, cause allergic reactions, and can even be lethal. Below is a list of food that you should completely avoid feeding to your Pug: Alcohol: Any amount of alcohol is hazardous for Pugs. Pugs do not have the enzyme to metabolize alcohol. Ingestion can cause hypoglycemia , metabolic acidosis , breathing problems, and central nervous system CNS impairment. Avocado: Avocado contains persin , a fungicidal toxin that has been linked to the death of many animals, including Pugs. It can cause diarrhea, vomiting, and heart damage in large quantities. As a result, even small amounts of chocolate can cause poisoning. Grapes and raisins: Grapes and raisins contain tartaric acid , which causes vomiting, diarrhea, dehydration, and kidney failure among Pugs. Unfortunately, even one whole grape can cause irreversible damage and death in small breeds like Pugs. Macadamia nuts and walnuts: While the exact reason why they are poisonous is unknown, it is best to avoid giving them to your Pugs entirely. In Pugs, macadamia and walnuts can cause diarrhea, weakness, breathing problems, and pancreatitis. Onion, garlic, leeks, and chives: All these vegetables contain N-propyl disulfide , which damages the oxygen-carrying substances in red blood cells. Ingestion of these vegetables can eventually lead to hemolytic anemia. Xylitol: In Pugs, xylitol can cause a rapid release of insulin, resulting in hypoglycemia, lethargy, collapse, and seizures. It is frequently found in gums, candies, syrups, and toothpaste. Pugs should avoid the foods listed above at all costs. Food with high sugar content: If your Pug consumes too much sugar, it is more likely to develop health problems such as diabetes, obesity, and tooth decay. Food with high sugar content can also give Pugs an upset stomach. Salty food: Just like sugar, too much salt can cause health problems in Pugs. If left unchecked, it has the potential to poison your Pug. Excessive salt consumption can cause vomiting, diarrhea, seizures, and kidney failure. Milk and dairy products: Because the majority of Pugs are lactose intolerant , dairy products can make them sick. They will have digestive problems because they are unable to break down lactose. This causes gastrointestinal blockage and death if left unattended. If you think your Pug has accidentally ingested any of the aforementioned foods, bring your dog to the nearest veterinary clinic for appropriate treatment. Transitioning to a new brand or type of food may be beneficial to their well-being and development. For most dogs, transitioning to new dog food can be difficult. Fortunately, Pugs are not born picky eaters, so changing their diet will be easier. The ideal transition for Pugs should be gradual changes spread over three weeks. Do this until they are comfortable with the new food. Below is a more detailed breakdown of how to transition your Pug to a new food: Days. Aug 25, Share An important part of taking good care of your Pug puppy is making sure that they are properly fed and that they get all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Puppies have different nutritional needs than adult dogs, and if your Pug is like most, they seem to like anything that they are fed. Luckily, there are many commercial foods available on the market. There is also the raw doggy food diet that seems to keep getting more popular as time goes on. But what kind of dog food is right for your Pug? How much should you be feeding them? What will the dog not eat? Are there special considerations for a senior Pug? The answers to these questions and more can be found in our Pug feeding guide below. What you do decide to feed your pooch should be based on the quality of the food, no matter the type, and your personal feeding preferences. Here is what can be on the table for your Pug. Image credit: PxHere Commercial Dry Food Kibble Commonly referred to as kibble, commercial dry dog food is the most common and widely available option on the market. Manufacturers of this type of food work hard to balance the ingredients and create a completely balanced nutritional profile for dogs like your Pug. In fact, some brands, like Royal Canin, offer puppy and adult foods made just for Pugs. Whether you choose a dry dog food made just for Pugs or one made for dogs in general, it should include real meat or animal meal as one of the first ingredients on the list. The upside to commercial dry dog food is that it is affordable and easy to administer. It is also typically easy to store for the long term without worrying about it spoiling. The downside is that it tends to be dehydrating, so water should be available to your Pug throughout the day. Commercial Wet Food Commercially made wet dog food tends to be more nutrient-dense than dry food because it contains fresher ingredients and usually has fewer grains, if any at all. Most wet foods have real whole meat or seafood and broth as the first ingredients. Sometimes, veggies are thrown in for good measure, but many are meat-centric to meet the high protein needs of your growing Pug. Wet food is not as easy to store as dry food is, because it must be refrigerated after being opened. However, Pugs tend to enjoy the flavor and texture of wet food more than dry. Wet food is also a little more expensive than dry food, especially when trying to feed Pugs that are full-grown and in their prime. Raw Food A raw food diet is said to result in better digestion, a healthier coat and immune system , optimal dental health, and less susceptibility to allergies among other things. A raw food diet typically consists of quality meat, a source of calcium such as bones , animal organs, and a lower fat count than most commercial foods offer. Feeding your Pug a raw food diet will take commitment and a strong understanding of the nutrition that they need. This type of diet can be expensive and can require storage space in the fridge and freezer. It is recommended that you consult with a veterinarian to put together a complete meal plan to follow if you choose to go this route. It is a freeze-dried raw food supplement that is delicious and nutritious. The process requires about a day of cooking in the kitchen, but the time that you spend in your kitchen should yield enough food for your pooch to eat all week long. You will just have to store the leftovers in the fridge each day until the entire batch has been offered and consumed. Homemade dog food usually consists of whole meat like chicken, eggs, fish oil or flaxseed, brown or white rice, possibly vegetables like carrots and peas , and maybe even supplements of some kind. It depends on what kind of recipe you decide to follow. Any recipe that you consider feeding your dog should be approved by your veterinarian first. But you can quickly tell whether your pooch is being underfed or overfed by checking out their physique every day. If your dog is underfed for too long, you could notice signs like lethargy and an unwillingness to interact with family members. If your dog is overfed, they may succumb to problems like diabetes. If you find that your dog is getting underweight, start feeding them up to an extra cup of food each day. Reduce the amount by up to a cup if your dog is getting pudgy and out of shape. To help avoid under and overfeeding your dog, follow the feeding directions on the packaging of any commercial food you buy for them. If you decide to go the raw or homemade food route, your veterinarian can provide you with a feeding guide. You are free to use this image, but please give credit back to Hepper. Extra immune support is also typically present in puppy food. Once Pugs become adults, they are not as active as when they were pups, and they are not growing at exponential rates, if at all. Therefore, they need food with less protein than what puppies get. Pugs can typically switch to adult dog food between the ages of 9 and 12 months because much of their growth will be complete at this time. The tricky part is the actual process of switching your pooch from puppy to adult dog food. If not done slowly and intentionally, switching to a new food can cause digestion issues for your dog that could create messes around the house. Lethargy and nausea may follow. Finally, offer only adult food. There are many reasons why your Pug might seem like they do not have an appetite. The first thing to consider is whether you are overfeeding them. If your pooch does not want to eat their last meal of the day, they could simply be full and satisfied. However, other issues could lead to a pup not eating such as: Dental Problems. If your Pug has a toothache or some other kind of dental problem, they may not be comfortable eating. Check for red gums, bleeding, and tenderness throughout the mouth. If something unusual is detected, consult your veterinarian immediately for guidance. Recent Vaccinations. Vaccines can cause side effects, including a lack of appetite. So, if your Pug does not seem to want to eat for a day or two after getting vaccinated, this is normal. Uncomfortable Surroundings. If your pooch goes on an adventure with you and is expected to eat their meal in a situation that is not familiar to them, they may pass on the meal altogether in favor of waiting until they get to what they feel is a safe space to eat. Even if your dog seems fine in every other way, a lack of wanting to eat could mean an illness of some kind is brewing. If you cannot find any other reason for a lack of appetite, you should see your vet as soon as possible. Adult Pugs will generally eat about a cup of dry commercial dog food each day or the equivalent, although certain differences might scale this amount up or down as time goes on. Here are the most important factors to consider. Active vs. Sedentary More active dogs will require more food than those that tend to be sedentary. If your pooch takes multiple walks every day, spends a great deal of time playing with kids throughout the day, or enjoys outdoor time with family members each afternoon, chances are that your dog will need a little more food than the average pooch. If your pooch takes only one short walk each day and spends most of their time lounging around the house, chances are that they should be fed as sedentary dogs. Spayed vs. Neutered Sometimes, dogs that are not spayed or neutered eat more than the average pooch. This is because they tend to be more active and excitable, which results in the need for more calories to support their energy needs. Pregnancy Pregnant Pugs need up to twice the amount of food that an adult dog would need. Instead of feeding your pregnant dog puppy or adult food, consider a food designed for all life stages that indicates its suitability for pregnancy. This type of food offers more protein and fat than adult food to support the extra growth they go through, but not as much as puppy food, which could make them overweight after the birth. What Foods Are Bad for Pugs? Image By: Momentmal, Pixabay There are a few foods that you should never feed your Pug to ensure their good health and to avoid serious problems like poisoning and even death. Here are a few food items that should be avoided at all costs: Alcohol. And the total number of dogs all breeds in the reports are .So while this is something that should be monitored and many more studies need to be done, it's important to keep in mind that this is a very small number compared to the estimated 77 million dogs in the U. The latest update is that there are no recalls at this moment that are linked to this issue. The Best Food for Pug Puppies and Adults What to Avoid: Quite a few ingredients that are found in a lot of dog food brands can be severely detrimental to a Pug and cause everything from allergic reactions itching, rashes, wheezing, running eyes, etc. Corn which includes as corn germ meal, corn gluten meal, and corn bran High grain counts which includes high levels of wheat, oats, barley, and other cereal grains which may be listed as hominy feed. Rice can be an exception; with rice, the hull, bran layer, and cereal germ is removed and for this reason, rice is often tolerated very well. By-products which are animal body parts deemed unfit for human consumption and can include brain, lungs, undeveloped eggs, and more. Generic meats or oils which can legally include roadkill and deceased zoo animals. What to Look For: All-natural preservatives; there are vitamin blends that work very well to preserve dog food and this often will show as mixed tocopherols. Natural flavoring Protein will come from wholesome animal sources including chicken, turkey, lamb, fish, bison, and beef. There will be no by-products or generic meats. If you offer grains, gluten-free grains are usually best. No other fillers or controversial additives. Helpful extras such as glucosamine and chondroitin beneficial for joint health , omega-3, 6 for healthy skin and coat , probiotics for immune health and antioxidants to help prevent disease. Some of the best food for Pugs includes: Best Formulas with Grains: 1. Wellness Complete Health for Small Breeds. The base of this kibble is turkey and oatmeal which is easy on the stomach for most Pugs. There is also salmon, brown rice, peas, carrots, spinach, sweet potatoes, blueberries, and apples. There are excellent levels of a wide-range of vitamins and minerals, good levels of omega-3 and 6, and glucosamine and chondroitin which are extremely beneficial joint supplements for Pugs. This is made in the US. Note that this offers puppy and adult formulas as well as 'healthy weight' for Pugs that need to lose a few pounds, and a senior formula. This line of Halo offers holistic recipes. This one has non-GMO produce and meats that are antibiotic-free and hormone-free with factory-free farming. The grains in this are oatmeal and pearled barley which are generally known for being well-tolerated. This is sized ideally for Pugs, and has no artificial additives, by-products, or corn. And, this is made in the US. Best Grain-free Formulas: 1. This is one of the best grain-free kibbles for Pugs; it's really top-of-the-line. The base is chicken and turkey. There is a wide selection of vegetables and fruits compared to some other brands spinach, broccoli, carrots, kale, sweet potatoes, apples and blueberries. Levels of omega fatty acids are ideal, via both salmon oil and flaxseed. And, there are good levels of glucosamine and chondroitin which as mentioned earlier are important for joint health. There is no corn, wheat, by-products, fillers, or artificial coloring, flavoring, or preservatives and this is made in the USA. This is another excellent choice that is formulated for dogs under 70 lbs. There are several great bases including lamb, beef, chicken, and salmon. There are zero chemical preservatives and no artificial ingredients. Added extras are healthy antioxidants, omega-3 and 6, and the very important glucosamine and chondroitin which are very beneficial for breeds like the Pug that are prone to joint and hip issues. This is a holistic kibble that offers non-GMO veggies and fruits and sustainably-sourced wild-caught fish and is ideal for Pugs that are carrying a few extra pounds. The base is salmon and whitefish, so most dogs love the taste. There are no chemical preservatives, corn, by-products, coloring, or fillers. Switching a Pug onto a Different Food If you just got a new Pug puppy, you may want to feed your little guy or gal something different than what was being given. And in many instances, this will be a good idea. The sooner you start your pup on a superior food that you've chosen yourself, the better. If you have an adult Pug, you may decide to switch foods due to an intolerance to certain ingredients some dogs do best with certain proteins like beef as opposed to chicken or vice-versa or maybe you realized that your Pug was not on the brand and you want to make a change. No matter the circumstances, if at all possible, it is best to change to a new brand of dog food in a gradual way because a quick switch can disrupt the digestive system. The goal should be a incremental change over the course of 3 weeks. Home Cooking Owners decide to home cook for their dogs for a variety of reasons: It can be less expensive; though, this depends quite a bit on what you buy and if you can purchase ingredients in bulk. It may be done to fully avoid preservatives, additives, by-products and other subpar ingredients; you know exactly what you are putting in. This can help avoid an intolerance or allergic reaction to an unknown ingredient. It is very flexible and adjustable. It can be a good choice for picky eaters. Other sources include beans such as lima beans, kidney beans, and butter beans must be cooked. Vegetables - This includes peas, carrots, spinach, zucchini, green beans, bell peppers, and butternut squash. You can also offer asparagus, kale, cauliflower, and broccoli in moderation since these foods can cause gas, Pumpkin in moderation is fine but typically reserved to help ease upset stomach issues. Fruits - This includes blueberries, raspberries both are low calorie, high in antioxidants, and water-packed , strawberries, huckleberries, banana, cantaloupe, honeydew melon, mango, kiwi, pear, peaches no pit , plums no pit , nectarines no pit , fresh pineapple, and apple no core, no seeds. Additional - This includes oatmeal plain , white or brown rice if no intolerance , quinoa, potato, sweet potato, cottage cheese, plain whole white yogurt, and eggs most dogs do best with scrambled eggs vs. Read more about home cooking for a Pug. Snacks and Treats We've covered the frequency of giving snacks and treats, but let's recap. Dry snacks, meant to satiate a dog in between meals should be given 3 to 4 times per day. And moist treats, meant to reward training and reinforce good behavior, should be given as needed. Now, the question remains on what to offer. All snacks and treats should be held to the same high standards that you have in place for your Pug's meals, meaning no synthetic preservatives, artificial coloring, artificial flavoring, soy, corn, by-products, high wheat levels, or generic meats. If your Pug's calorie intake needs to be carefully watched due to issues with weight gain, there will also be a need to opt for some low-calorie treats. And, to see more options, including moist treats for giving reward, continue on to the best snacks and treats for Pugs. After 2 to 3 days, if the problem has resolved, adding in additional ingredients can be done. Any diarrhea lasing longer than 3 days or moderate to severe vomiting lasting more than 12 hours should be brought to the attention of the veterinarian. Water Different elements will dictate just how much water a Pug dog requires , though a general rule of thumb is that each day, dogs need to drink about 1 ounce for each 1 pound. Offer bottled spring water or use a filter device like the. Related Articles: When a Pug is a Picky Eater - If you find yourself constantly scrambling to find foods that your Pug likes and their taste buds seem to change weekly, this will help you get things back on track. When a Pug is Always Hungry - If your Pug's appetite is ferocious and nothing seems to satisfy, these issues may be at the root of the problem. When a Pug Won't Eat - If your Pug puppy or dog refuses to eat or getting them to eat feels like a chore, these tips will help. How to Stop a Pug from Begging - If your Pug wants your food and is relentless about getting it, these guidelines will help stop this sort of behavior. Top 10 Pug Dog Eating Problems - A roundup of the most common eating-related issues seen with this breed and exact steps to resolve them. Do you have your book? All rights reserved. Privacy Policy We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. This feeding routine should be followed from 8 weeks to 6 months old. But how much food should that be exactly in each feeding session. How many cups of food should I feed my Pug puppy and adults? Before you check out this Pug feeding chart below, you may just want a quick reference to how many cups of food you need to feed a Pug. The common guidelines say you should feed a Pug puppy of 8 to 20 weeks different cup sizes depending on their weight and age. You can see the cup amounts in the chart here: Puppy feeding amounts This Pug puppy feeding chart explains just how many cups of food you should give them and the regularity. It will be 3 times a day, then twice a day as they get older. As your Pug ages, the number of cups of food you need to him or her will change, as will the regularity. Take a look at the guidance in the graphic below. Adult feeding amounts This is feeding chart for adult Pugs explaining how many cups and how often in the day the feeding times should be. The Pug feeding charts you see above have been scanned from the Royal Canin brand of dog food. This is a very trusted brand, and you will find it being sold in vets all over the world. It contains all the nutrients your Pug puppy will need and is great for starting out with and into adult ages. Almost every time, this happens by the age of 3 weeks; and puppies should not leave their mother until at least 8 weeks of age. They will be like eating machines at this age because they have so much energy to burn. You could also try to sit your Pug down on some scales, but good luck with trying to make them sit still. Instead you can weigh yourself if you have accurate scales, and then get someone to pass you your Pug puppy to see what the difference is. The age of your Pug You might find it hard to get your Pug used to commercial dry food at first. The commercial puppy food should be high enough in calories and nutrients to make up for what they used to get from their mother. In terms of adjusting for their ages, Pug puppies of 8 to 12 weeks old can have one and half cups of food each day, split into 3 servings. By the ages of 6 to 9 months, Pug puppies will be in a regular eating routine where they drop to two meals a day — and this is how it will stay as adults. The dangers of over-feeding Some Pug owners might decide to go to 4 meals a day, but still with the same amount of food. This is because tinier Pugs might find the half a cup 3 times daily, too much of a large meal. Overfeeding is something to keep a strict eye on. If you feed your Pug puppy too much, he could get gastric dilatation-volvulus see definition on ACVS. This is the medical term for a twisted gut and can actually be fatal. Feeding more senior Pugs As Pugs get older, they will start to get less active. With reduced levels of energy comes the need for a lower calorie intake. But only if they are reducing their exercise due to age. With an older Pug you might start to see them putting on weight. If you do see weight gain, start to pull back on the portion sizes. Sometimes your vet may even recommend you go to a higher frequency of daily meals albeit smaller portions , almost like they are puppies again. With senior dogs this can help with weaker stomachs. Overweight or underweight? The average Pug puppy will weigh between 2 and 4 pounds at 8 weeks. These are healthy weight ranges. If you do have a Pug puppy who is clearly underweight, start to add a little bit more food to each of the daily meals until they come back into the health weight range. With overweight Pugs you do the exact opposite but mix more exercise into their daily routines as well. Handy Hint: If your Pug is losing or gaining weight and how much food they eat makes no difference, it could be a sign of an underlying health issue. Health problems related to Pug feeding Not all dogs are the same, and all the guidance on this page is very generic towards how much you should feed a Pug. The bottom line is that your vet will be able to properly tell you how much your Pug should eat due to their age and weight. Raw food vs. I understand why people feed their dog raw food though; they say commercial food has too many additives plus preservatives, fillers, wheat, corn, and proteins. Consult with your vet for a professional opinion. Pugs that eat their food far too quickly You should also monitor how quickly your Pug is eating. Puppies are used to having to compete for food, and even when they are home alone with you, they will still have an instinct to wolf their food down. This can cause indigestion and vomiting, so there are a few things you can do to slow their intake down. Use a muffin tin evenly spread the portions throughout the tin. The best dry dog foods should have a high percentage of meats and fish in. Omega-3s are healthy fats, so those will also be a good sign if listed. All of the notes and guidance are based on my own personal experience of raising puppies, with exception to the feeding schedule which is from the Canin dog food brand. However, the Canin Pug feeding charts you see, are exactly how I have fed my puppies and adult dogs. Once your dog reaches adulthood, the best times to feed your Pug will be breakfast and dinner times. Keep a regular feeding routine, and your Pug will stay at healthy as our dogs have! You might also like… If you have found this useful and are new to Pug ownership, you might find these other handy guides useful during the puppy phase:. Kibble, cans and specialty foods Proper Nutrition Since puppies need energy to grow big and strong, their food is higher in calories and packed with more nutrients. This includes more fat, protein, amino acids, vitamins, minerals, and omega-3 fatty acids. So always choose a food that is labelled for puppies. Since a Pug is a small toy breed , they will grow very quickly and reach adulthood much faster than larger breeds. Toy dog breeds actually need more calories per pound than larger breeds due to their higher metabolic rates. The structure of their flat muzzle and facial folds , while appealing to look at, unfortunately causes a number of serious health problems. This causes soft tissue to block the airways, making breathing very difficult. Their jaws and teeth can also cause them problems. Remember, slimmer is better. How Often To Feed Your Pug Puppy I always recommend feeding puppies small meals at scheduled times several hours apart, and then decreasing the frequency as they get older. For puppies under six months go with something like 7am, 12noon, 3pm then 6pm. As they grow you can reduce this routine to three or even two times a day, but there is no harm continuing with multiple feedings as long as you dividing their daily rations evenly. Kibble vs Canned Food Dried puppy kibble is affordable, easy to store and transport, and readily available. Serving is as simple as opening the package and pouring it into the bowl. Canned or wet food will sometimes offer more meat protein and fewer carbohydrates than kibble does, but you will usually pay more as well. Wet food is also associated with an increase in periodontal diseases , which is not ideal for a dog already prone to these issues. Specialty Pug Puppy Foods The introduction of breed-specific formulas to the market has made it even more confusing. However, there are some Pug puppy formulations that address some of their health issues that might be worth considering. Some kibble is designed in a shape and texture that makes it easier for short-nosed puppies to pick up and chew easily.

Also called the Bernese Mountain Poo, Bernesepoo, Bernesedoodle, and Bernepoo, the Bernedoodle hybid mixes the happy-go-lucky temperament of the Bernese Mountain Dog with the intelligence of its Poodle parents. Mini Bernedoodles are happiest when they're spending time with their families, children included. They are willing participants in playtime and cuddle fests alike. Fans of the breed adore their friendliness, playfulness, intelligence, and affection. They are fairly adaptable and go with the flow. If you need a dog for the whole family, or if you're a single owner looking for a lovable, smart mixed-breed with good health that will put a smile on your face with their antics, you won't be able to find a much better choice than the Miniature Bernedoodle. They do well with children and other animals, and are happiest as part of a family. They love spending time with their human family and should not be left alone for long periods. They can be wary of strangers, but early training can help their socialization. Toy and mini Bernedoodles can be more energetic and stubborn than the standard version, but you will find them relatively easy to train because of that Poodle intelligence. Their skull is moderately round with flat cheekbones and a long, straight muzzle with a scissor bite. Their eyes are dark, oval, and set far enough apart to make their facial expressions appear alert and intelligent. Ears have wide and thick ear leather and hang close to the head, at or just below eye level. Coats can be curly, dense, and highly textured, or corded, hanging in tight even cords of varying lengths. The coat is tricolor with black as the base and markings in rich rust and clear white. The tail will vary in length, but it is bushy and carried high. Exercise Medium Activity Bernedoodles are moderately active and will love daily walks. They enjoy playing fetch and spending time with you. This breed tends to wander and hunt, so a fenced-in yard is important. They can adapt to urban or rural settings provided there is time and space for daily exercise. This breed requires a lot of human interaction, so leaving him alone outside for long periods will not work for the Bernedoodle. We recommend at least an hour of exercise every day. They will do well with time to fetch, run, and learn new tricks. The famous Mini Bernedoodle crossbreed is a mix between a mini poodle or toy poodle and the legendary Bernese Mountain Dog breed. From the toy or mini poodle side, they get low shedding, hypoallergenic coats, intelligence, and a more laid-back temperament and energy level. From the Bernese Mountain Dog side, they get loyalty, Friendliness, and playful attitudes. This breed is usually non-aggressive, gentle, friendly, and makes great family pets. History of the Miniature Bernedoodle Breed Back in , some dog breeders in Ontario Canada were given the credit of intentionally breeding Mini Poodles and Bernese Mountain Dogs creating the mixed breed which would eventually be given the breed name Mini Bernedoodles. These two breeds were selected because of their extreme intelligence, great looks, and calm natures. The poodle also had the sought-after low shedding hypoallergenic qualities people were looking for. The crossbreed non-drooling Coat Colors of Mini Bernedoodle Dogs Mini Bernedoodle puppies come in a wide range of colors, including black, brown, white, red, tan, chocolate, or any combination of the colors. Many mini bernedoodle dogs are mostly black with white sections on their back, around their eyes, chest, and legs. Many have tan or brown markings as well. What kind of Coat does Mini Bernedoodles have? The coats of Miniature Bernedoodles are usually thick and can be curly, wavy, or straight. The reason for the variety of coats is they can take after the mother or father or a combination of both. Generation Variations of Mini Bernedoodles Mini Bernedoodle puppy breeding falls into two different generation categories. F1B Mini Bernedoodle — is considered a second-generation mini bernedoodle because it has a purebred Mini or Toy Poodle as a parent and an F1 Mini Bernedoodle as a parent. This makes the puppy 75 Percent poodle and 25 percent Bernese Mountain Dog. Are Miniature Bernedoodles Hypoallergenic? Mini Bernedoodles are considered a hypoallergenic dog breed. Hypoallergenic means they are less likely to trigger allergy attacks or symptoms to people who suffer from allergies. No dog is completely hypoallergenic even though some breeders claim it. If someone in your family is highly allergic to dogs it is best to get them around a mini bernedoodle to see how they react before committing to get one and later find out you have to find them a new home. How big do Mini Bernedoodle Puppies Get? When a Mini Bernedoodle puppy is full-grown its height will range from 10 to 15 inches at the shoulder. The adult weight of a Mini Bernedoodle puppy can vary based on the parents of the puppy. Most weigh between 10 and 30 pounds when fully grown. Breeders can usually provide you with a better weight estimate because they will know the weights of both parents of the individual puppy. Another thing that affects a Mini Bernedoodle size is the breed generation version of the puppy. What kind of Temperament does Mini Bernedoodles have? They are super loving to their families and are great with kids. They also usually get along with other pets like cats or other dogs. They love to be close and enjoy spending time with the family no matter what. They seem to love to do everything from cuddling up on the couch to outdoor activities like hiking, swimming, running, fetching, playing tag, or just hanging out by a campfire. They adapt to almost any lifestyle, whether it is an active lifestyle or a more laid back relaxed lifestyle. They are always up for some fun and are ready to play anytime. Mini Bernedoodles are gentle and careful around kids but loyal and very protective of their family at the same time. Overall Mini Bernedoodles make great, loving members of your family. Care for your Miniature Bernedoodle For the most part, Mini Bernedoodles are fairly low maintenance when it comes to caring and grooming. Mini bernedoodles can have thick long hair or short curly hair depending on the parents and what generation they are. They usually shed very little but still need to be brushed at least once a week to prevent matting and tangles. Baths are only as needed throughout the year when the coat gets muddy or really dirty. Mini Bernedoodles have oils in their coat and skin, which prevents the need for regular baths if properly brushed and groomed. Mini Bernedoodles have floppy or droopy ears and need their ears checked behind and inside for redness or infections. Nails should be trimmed on a regular basis to keep them from getting too long and broken. How often does Mini Bernedoodles need to be Groomed? It is highly recommended that mini bernedoodles be groomed professionally every two to three weeks on average. Longer hair leads to issues like tangles and severe matting if not taken care of properly. Exercising your Mini Bernedoodle! For the most part, Miniature Bernedoodles are fairly active but also have a chill side to their personality. They love to walk, run, hike, swim, chase balls along with every other kind of family activity. But they also love to be lazy and cuddly on the couch being close to their family. It is recommended that your mini bernedoodle gets at least thirty to sixty minutes of exercise daily to keep them in shape. This can be a combination of walks and playtime. Proper exercise will prevent your dog from becoming overweight which could cause health and hip problems. Miniature Bernedoodle Training! Most Bernedoodles are fairly easy to train because of the intelligence they inherit from both the toy Poodle and Bernese Mountain Dog parents. They tend to pick up things very fast but because they are so intelligent they can be slightly stubborn also at times. Positive reinforcement style training will keep their attention and eagerness to learn new tricks and commands. Socializing training usually goes very well because the breed is very outgoing and friendly nature. Mini Bernedoodles are known for being very loyal and craving attention from their family. This can lead to separation anxiety if not dealt with early while they are a puppy. The most recommended solution is to leave them alone for short amounts of time while they are young so they can get used to alone time and know you will be back. This will keep them from getting anxious and acting up. Can Miniature Bernedoodles be Registered? No mixed breeds are recognized by the AKC. But due to the popularity of mixed breeds, new kennel clubs have formed to recognize the new designer mix-breeds available. Can Miniature Bernedoodles be used for therapy dogs? Mini Bernedoodles have been known to make amazing therapy dogs. Their gentle personalities and intelligence make them easy to train to be certified therapy dogs. Does Miniature Bernedoodles get along with other dogs and pets? Mini Bernedoodles have great personalities and usually get along great with other pets in the household. Is a Miniature Bernedoodle a good fit for my family? Mini Bernedoodles are a great fit for most families. With that being said, they are an active breed and are usually happier with a family with a more active lifestyle that the dog can be part of. They are great with kids and can adapt and be happy in an apartment setting as long as they get out and get their exercise. Does Miniature Bernedoodles have a tendency to bark a lot? Mini Bernedoodles are typically quiet dogs and only bark for guarding purposes or are coerced during play. Does Mini Bernedoodles shed a lot? Miniature Bernedoodles are typically very low shedding and are often considered hypoallergenic dogs. The Puppies Generation plays a part in how much they shed also. The closer to the poodle breed the dog is the less they shed. Normally the curlier the Mini Bernedoodle coat is the less they will shed. Mini bernedoodles typically live to the ages of 12 years old with proper care. Puppy owners can help their Mini Bernie live a full life by providing regularly scheduled vet visits, getting them all of their vaccines and shots, and protecting them from fleas, ticks, and worms. Mini bernedoodle dogs also need plenty of daily exercises and good nutritional food. Life Span Did You Know? They tend to be affectionate and loving dogs that make great family pets. They are even known to make great therapy dogs! Although they are not recognized by the American Kennel Club, they are recognized by other canine registries. One of the facts about Bernedoodles is that they are true companion dogs. They are cuddly companions that love nothing more than being with their favorite humans. As long as they are well-socialized and trained, Mini Bernedoodles tend to get along well with children, other dogs, other pets, and even strangers. Miniature Bernedoodles are highly adaptable dogs. They do well in larger homes as well as apartments. They are sensitive to heat and extreme cold, but do well in most climates. Because they bond so closely with their families and thrive on attention, they do not like to be left alone for long periods of time and can develop separation anxiety if you do not work with them early on. Good breeding practices make a big difference in the health of puppies. Reputable breeders will screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues to puppies. You can ask about the health and genetic history of the parents and about any health tests or clearances that have been done. Mini Bernedoodles are intelligent dogs that pick up on things quickly and are eager to please. This makes them a highly trainable dog that is a good fit for owners of all experience levels. They can become stubborn if training is not consistent or clear. Although their coat tends to be low-shedding and will range from straight to wavy or curly, the Mini Bernedoodle coat requires some maintenance. Daily brushing is recommended to remove tangles and prevent mats. Professional grooming is recommended every weeks. Nail trims once or twice monthly keep them from growing too long and causing issues. Ear checks on a weekly basis with careful cleanings as needed help to prevent ear infections. As a small dog breed, Mini Bernedoodles are more prone to developing gum disease. Good dental care for dogs early and consistently throughout their life can help prevent painful dental diseases later in life. Daily tooth brushing, plus cleanings at the vet as needed, is ideal. Although Mini Bernedoodles will be playful and have bursts of energy while playing, they are not high-energy dogs. They tend to sit in a more moderate range. Daily walks plus some playtime throughout the day are usually enough for them. But, they love spending time with you and will likely be up for more activity if you are. They may be smaller dogs, but they also tend to be relatively athletic. When puppies finish growing , you can try higher-impact activities like running, hiking, training for dog sports, and more. Fully-grown Mini Bernedoodles usually stand inches tall. They can range from pounds. F1B and F2 Mini Bernedoodles usually weigh pounds and are on the shorter side of the range. Mini Bernedoodles generally live for years on average. Featured Mini Bernedoodle Article. The miniature bernedoodle may also vary in color and coat with the mini or toy poodle daddy being credited with the majority of these specific conformations. Miniature Bernedoodle Size Depending on the breeder, there is a great size range in the mini-bernedoodles. Some breeders use miniature poodles, other toy poodles, to obtain the smaller body size. Mini bernedoodles can range anywhere from 15 pounds to 40 pounds depending on the dogs used for breeding. HC Bernedoodles specializes in these special mini-bernedoodle puppies. Though it's important to note, size of the puppy is often not known until after birth. We've had a 7 pound toy produce a 50 pound as an adult offspring. First, and possibly the most popular is the traditional black tri color which consists of black, white and tan or rust colors and will strongly resemble the Bernese mountain dog's colors. Then there,s the sable tri color which will consist of any sable color, tan and white markings and is considered to be more of a speciality color. Sable is a color that will generally carry a fading gene and will lighten in color as they age. We also have the bi colors which are most generally black with the white Bernese markings. You may encounter a solid color mini bernedoodle as well and they will generally consist of a solid black with a few small white markings that will generally disappear as they mature in size. At HC Bernedoodles we avoid breeding solid colors due to being the least appealing look in the Bernedoodle. We may see a more wavey coat in some vs. While the wavey coat may be more appealing in appearance, the curly coat is more suitable for allergy sufferers due to generally being less shedding than the wavey coat. It is difficult to predict these coats as young puppies due to observing a puppy coat vs. Miniature Bernedoodle Temperament The miniature bernedoodle may be more active than the larger Bernedoodle breeds due to the toy or miniature poodle being more of an active breed. They are a highly recommended family dog breed and are tremendous with children due to carrying the genes of the affectionate, loving Bernese mountain dog. While intelligence simplifies training in the mini bernedoodle it can work in a negative sense as well. If training is neglected you may see bad habits develop earlier than in breeds that may not be known to be as intelligent. Therefore it is highly recommended to start training at an early age and be consistent in training exercises. Health Health is possibly the greatest attribute in the F1 mini bernedoodle. Being a smaller size hybrid cross they are the least likely to inherit congenital health problems, with the likelihood of hip or elbow dysplasia being greatly reduced due to the much smaller size. Exercise The miniature bernedoodle requires a moderate amount of exercise. Daily exercise is generally sufficient. If you would like to be notified, please contact us and we will notify you when our Mini Bernedoodles become available. Mini Bernedoodles Past Litters. All pups have found homes. Expected to weigh lbs. We have 4 females and 3 males all fully furnished with hair, They have their first shots and have been dewormed. They come with a 1 year genetic health guarantee. If you want to.We have mini bernedoodle puppies for sale. She is the second smallest pup of a 10 puppy litter. Strathcona County Our Summer litter. Crate and pee pad trained raised.He's sweet, goofy, interactive, walks really well on.Health Tested lines Gorgeous coats, hypoallergenic, non-shedding. We have 2 available 1 girl-Miss Purple 1 boy-Mr. Burgundy We have years of experience.They should be lb fully grown. Pictures 1,2,3 are the boys.He is a handsome Merle medium Bernedoodle male who is expected to weigh 40 to 55 lbs full grown. Brooke his mother is a pure.Their mom is the most gentle sweet natured mini Poodle one could ever have the.It means that your puppy will be max 15 pounds and more likely around the 10 pound mark not to mention ALSO Hypoallergenic. Only one.Her sire is an amazing f1 mini bernedoodle.Molly is a gorgeous apricot and white pup. She has been home.London Male 1st 3 pics and female last 3 pics bernedoodles. Male will be lbs full grown. The female will be around 30lbs. Both have wonderful personalities. Friendly and affectionate, just like mom.Most of the puppies are expected to mature pounds, the male in photo .She is 9 weeks old and ready for her forever family. First three photos are female. These puppies have been a lot of fun to raise! They have had all their puppy shots so are ready to join.First three puppies are female pics .They have had all their puppy

Want to learn how to crate train your golden retriever puppy fast? Crate training is one of the best things you can do for your puppy. It helps accelerate potty training, it keeps them safe, and it helps keep them from learning bad habits like chewing up shoes. Read this article to learn more about potty training your golden retriever puppy. When I was a kid I hated vegetables. I just wanted fries and chicken nuggets. But what did my parents do? They made me eat veggies a little at a time until I got used to them. And then after I got used to them, I learned to love them. Now as an adult, I would much rather prefer a pile of grilled zucchini, broccoli, and asparagus than a plateful of fries. Crate training your golden retriever follows a similar pattern. But the following steps are going to teach you how to teach them to love their crate and handle being alone. The wire crate helped because it was open so he could always see the people around him, which lessened his anxiety of being in there alone at first. Step 2: Get The Crate Ready This is another step that you will have ideally done before you bring your puppy home. The first thing to consider when getting the crate ready for your pup is where to put it. Here are a few options: In your bedroom In the living room or other area where people in your home hang out Get two crates and have one in your bedroom and one in the living room Golden retrievers love being around people, so having their crate around people will usually help ease some of the pain of crate training. This will usually help with the loneliness and crying. The other thing to consider when getting the crate ready is what to put in it. You also may want to put a bed in there to make it comfortable for them. So how do you do that? First, they need to decide to go into the crate themselves. You can do that by putting a favorite toy in the crate, or scattering food in there. Expect them to walk in and right back out the first time. You want to make it so that they know fun things are in the crate. Check out the video below for a fun crate training game to help your puppy learn to love their crate. Walk out of the room for a second, then come back in. Then walk out for five seconds, then ten seconds. These next few sections will answer some common questions that new puppy owners have, as well as some tips to help the process go smoothly. Putting your puppy in the crate with a full bladder is one way you can set them up to fail. Also, frozen kongs or chew toys with peanut butter work great for easing your puppy into getting comfortable in their crate by themselves. That means that a two-month-old puppy can only hold it for about two to three hours, so expect to have to wake up two or three times every night until they get a little older. Take the water bowl away about two or three hours before bedtime so that your puppy will have time to fully empty their bladder before going to sleep for the night. Get them sufficiently tired during the day. Play games like tug, fetch or chase to physically wear them out, and train them and give them puzzle toys like frozen kongs to mentally wear them out. Set an alarm to wake yourself up before they wake up themselves. This is a tough situation, but it can be done. Here are some tips to make it work. You may have to come home on your lunch break, ask friends, family, or neighbors to come over, or hire a dog walker to let your puppy out. Wear them out in the mornings Go on walks, play chase, fetch and tug, or wrestle with them in the mornings to get some of their endless energy out. Utilize an exercise pen You might want to consider getting an exercise pen like this one from Amazon and circling it around the front of the crate to give your dog some extra room. Check out the video below for an example of what a crate looks like with an exercise pen attached for extra space. Does she need to pee? Is she full of energy? Or does she just want to get out and get some attention? Remember to set them up for success before you put them in crate, meaning physically and mentally tiring them out and making sure their bladder is empty. You can also leave for short periods of time starting at seconds , then come back and let her out. How long it takes for your puppy to get used to the crate depends. Did you rush them into it, or did you let them learn that the crate is awesome? Have you been rewarding them for barking in it, or have they learned that silence is what gets them out of the crate? It also depends on the dog. Some dogs take to crates much better than others. You can do it! Is Crate Training Ever Over? We started leaving him alone in the house somewhere around six months old, and then a few months after that we started letting him sleep outside of his crate he decided to sleep under the toilet… weird dude. Two big questions to ask yourself when considering taking this next step are: When was the last time my puppy had an accident in the house? When was the last time my puppy chewed something up in the house? Just like with crate training, you want to take baby steps and set them up for success. Crate Training Mistakes While all of the tips above will help make crate training go smoothly, the mistakes below can ruin your efforts, or at least make it very hard to get them to relax in their crate. Mistake 2: Rushing crate training Crate training takes time. Would you want to go in an unfamiliar box in an unfamiliar house? They need to learn that the crate is fun, safe, and relaxing, and that takes time. This leads us to the next mistake… Mistake 4: Punishing them for crying in the crate If a puppy is crying in the crate because they want attention, they might perceive you yelling at them as attention. Mistake 6: Using the crate too much Golden retrievers are lovers. Conclusion Crate training is one of the best things you can do for your puppy. Have any questions about crate training? Or have any other tips for new puppy owners? Let me know in the comments below! Related articles:. Food bowl Treats Make sure you have all the above items before you bring your Golden retriever puppy home so that you can get started crate training him right away. Position The Crate Before you set off to collect your puppy, decide where you want his crate to be. Prepare The Crate Fit the crate with a non-slip crate liner, comfy bed, or crate pad, and put a tempting chew toy inside. Put a bowl of water and a packet of treats close by. Cut a small piece of the blanket and put it in the crate. Keep the rest of the blanket for future use. Let the puppy check out the area around the crate. Curious pups might even voluntarily venture inside the crate! Put a few tempting treats inside the crate, close to the door. Golden retrievers are notoriously food-oriented dogs that will most likely be enticed into the crate by those yummy treats. Never force the puppy into the crate. Chat to your pet, offer him more treats, and add a fun toy to the mix to persuade your furry friend to go into the crate. Generally, placing the crate around people will help to encourage your puppy to feel comfortable spending time inside it. Play Crate Games Crate sessions can be made more enjoyable for your puppy by incorporating some crate games. Use treats, cuddly toys, or a KONG toy stuffed with frozen peanut butter or treats to reward your puppy for entering his crate. Crate Feeding Your Golden Retriever Puppy Golden retrievers are very food-oriented, and you can use that to enhance and speed up the crate training process considerably. Allow your puppy to watch you prepare his meal, and then place the food bowl just inside the crate. Once your puppy is confidently going into the crate to get the food, move the food bowl to the back of the crate. Shut The Door By now, your Golden retriever puppy should view the crate as a safe, comfortable, fun place to be. So, try closing the crate door when your puppy is happily tucking into his food. The first time the door is closed, open it again once your pet has finished eating. At each crate training session, leave the door shut for a little longer. Step Back Away From The Crate Assuming that your crate routine is going well, your Golden retriever puppy should now associate the crate with a couple of treats, toys, games, and eating his meals. A common mistake people make is that they try to move too far away from the puppy too soon. Provided that the puppy is calm, you can now move away from the crate. If your puppy starts whinging, turn your back on your pet, and wait a few minutes until the whining stops. After ten seconds of your pet remaining calm, you can turn around and allow him to come out of the crate. Watch your puppy throughout this exercise, and let your pet out of the crate as soon as he shows signs of anxiety. Very young puppies aged up to ten weeks old will need to relieve themselves immediately after a meal. Potty Breaks When you begin your crate training puppy schedule , observe your pet closely for tell-tale signs that he needs to go potty. Generally, puppies will start whining, circling, and sniffing the ground when they need to relieve themselves. When that happens, immediately grab your puppy, and get him to his assigned toilet spot. Eight-week-old puppies typically need to go for a pee around every 30 to 60 minutes. During warm weather or after exercise, when the puppy drinks more, he might need to go more often than that. Once the puppy is older, he will be able to wait for longer between potty stops. What About Bedtime? The safest place for your puppy to spend the night is confined in his crate. Although your pup might experience a bit of separation anxiety from bedtime crating at first, you can help to mitigate that by putting the crate in your bedroom with you. Use a crate cover to create that safe, den-like space that encourages your canine companion to settle down and sleep. Sometimes, giving your Golden retriever puppy a special treat reserved for bedtime can help him understand that his crate is a comfortable space to spend the night. Expect Disturbed Nights! When your puppy is very young, you can expect to be disturbed by his cries for attention during the night. Dogs are clean animals, and they will resist soiling their sleeping area if at all possible. So, set your alarm to wake you up every couple of hours throughout the night so that you can take your puppy outside to relieve himself. Immediately Clean Up Accidents Unfortunately, dealing with potty accidents is all part and parcel of raising and training a new puppy. When that happens, never punish or scold your pup. When accidents happen around your home, use an enzyme cleaner to remove the scent of urine from your floor coverings. If your puppy has an accident in his crate, you must wash all the bedding immediately. Ensure that you have a good supply of spare bedding to grab if you need it, and clean the crate thoroughly to remove any lingering smell of urine. Golden retrievers are especially quick at remembering simple words, and these trainable dogs are typically pretty obedient. So, from the get-go, you need to begin using verbal cues. Pick short and clear words so that your puppy can easily recognize and remember them. Combine your cue words with crate training. Increase The Difficulty As crate training progresses, you can make things more challenging for your puppy. Ask your dog to stay in the crate with the door closed for longer periods, and begin to move out of sight. Just like little kids, puppies will throw tantrums during the first few days of crate training. That behavior is perfectly normal and to be expected, especially when you first close the crate door. Instead, reward calm behavior with treats verbal praise, and let your puppy come out of the crate. So, when a tantrum kicks off, simply turn your back on your furry friend, and wait until he settles down again. Consistency Is Crucial! One of the most common problems people experience when crate training their puppy is not being consistent. Yes, it can be tough when your adorable fluffy bundle is crying and whining inside his crate. Unfortunately, giving in to your fur baby when he complains simply teaches your pet that whining and other bad behavior get him what he wants, which sets your training regimen back. Playtime Is Vital A lively Golden retriever puppy bursting with energy is not likely to settle calmly in his crate. Final Thoughts I hope you enjoyed our guide to crate training a Golden retriever puppy. If you did, please remember to share it. Crates are also useful tools for potty training your puppy and preventing bad behavior, such as chewing and eating harmful substances. Always be consistent and patient when crate training your puppy; use cue words and positive reinforcement to make learning fun for both your pet and you. Did you use a crate to train your Golden retriever puppy? Tell us how you did in the comments box below. Meet our writer Alison Page Alison Page was brought up with dogs and various other pets! For a few years, Alison worked as a Practice Manager in a small animal veterinary clinic. Alison is now a full-time writer, specializing in creating articles on the care and training of dogs, cats, and fish. Leave a Comment. Key Takeaways Crate training can help you provide a safe and comfortable environment for your Golden Retriever. Avoid rushing the crate training process to ensure your dog feels comfortable and secure. Please do not use the crate as a punishment or leave your dog in it for extended periods. Crate training can be more effective and enjoyable for your dog if you use consistency, positive reinforcement, treats, and toys. Make it more comfortable by providing toys, blankets, and treats. Step 2: Once your pup is at ease, close the door and bring toys and treats inside. Keep an eye on them and let them out if they become distressed. Step 3: Increase the time your puppy spends in the crate with the door closed gradually, and step away from the crate while they are distracted. Step 4: Extend the time you are away from the crate. Selecting The Right Crate Size To ensure your Golden Retriever is comfortable and has enough space in their crate, you need to measure them accurately. Golden Retrievers will typically grow to by 20 to 24 inches tall and up to 75 lbs, so you need to make sure to get them the right size crate. Follow these steps to determine the size of your dog: 1. Measure the height of your Golden Retriever: Have your dog stand up straight, Measure from the floor to the top of their shoulder blades. Add around inches to this measurement to determine the minimum height for the crate. Measure the length of your dog from the tip of their nose to the base of their tail. Remember to add 2 to 4 inches to the measurement. Measure their width by having your Golden Retriever standing with their legs slightly apart. Focus your attention on the widest part of their body, which tends to be the chest area. Once again, always add up to 4 inches to the figure. Finally, you want to consider the age of your Golden Retriever. For example, if you have a puppy, keep in mind that they will grow rapidly. You may want to choose a crate that will work for their adult size or opt for an adjustable crate with dividers, so you can gradually increase the space as they grow. Your Golden Retriever puppy will rapidly outgrow a nice crate that is not suited for an adult size. Now that you have all the measurements, you can refer to this Crate Size Calculator to find out the right and best dog crate size for your golden retriever. What Is Crate Training? Crate training is the process of teaching a dog to accept a crate as a familiar and safe location. Here are some of the reasons: House training: Using a crate, you can help your dog learn where and when to go potty. This will make house training more effortless and less stressful for both of you. Safe space: A crate can be a relaxing and safe place for your dog to relax and sleep. It can also help keep your dog out of a mess by preventing them from chewing on inappropriate items or getting into dangerous substances. Traveling: Whether driving or flying across the country, a crate can help keep your dog safe and comfortable. Additionally, many hotels and other accommodations allow crate-trained dogs. Separation anxiety: A crate can provide security and comfort if your dog gets anxious when you leave. Knowing they have a safe place to go can help alleviate their anxiety and make their time away from home less stressful. Overall, crate training is an excellent way to provide your dog with a secure and comfortable environment to call their own. You should start crate training your puppy when you bring them home. However, with patience and positive reinforcement, an older dog can be trained to use a crate. Crate training can be a helpful way to provide a safe and comfortable space for your Golden Retriever to rest and relax, but it should never be used as a form of punishment or confinement. When done responsibly and positively, crate training can be a positive and effective method for you and your Golden Retriever. However, with time, consistency, and positive reinforcement, you can help your dog get used to his crate. Add treats, toys, and blankets to the crate to make it more inviting. Increasing the time your dog spends in the crate gradually is crucial. Remember that crate training should be enjoyable for you and your Golden Retriever. You can quickly make your furry friend feel safe and secure in their crate with a little effort! Benefits Of Crate Training Your Golden Retriever Crate training can be super helpful for your furry friend and offer them a bunch of benefits, such as: Prevents Destructive Behavior: By giving your Golden Retriever a cozy and secure space, crate training can prevent them from chewing, digging, or scratching on household items. Potty Training: Crate training can teach your Golden Retriever to associate the crate with their den, making it easier to hold their bladder and bowels until you take them outside. Prepares Them For Travel: If you need to take your Golden Retriever on a trip, crate training can help them feel comfortable and secure while in transit. Crate training is a great way to help your Golden Retriever feel safe, secure, and comfortable while preventing destructive behavior and keeping them healthy and happy. Adult dogs: They can handle up to 8 hours in a crate, ideally with a break in the middle. Overnight: Many dogs can stay in a crate overnight without issues. Always ensure that any time in the crate is a positive experience for the dog, supplemented by regular breaks, exercise, and playtime outside of the crate. The shift is a delicate balance of patience, supervision, and positive reinforcement. Gradual Exploration Start by letting your dog explore a restricted, safe space under supervision. As comfort grows, extend the time they spend outside the crate. Monitor and Supervise Observe your dog closely during early freedom stages to prevent accidents or mischief. Ensure your home is dog-proofed to minimize potential hazards. Essential Amenities Keep their water bowl accessible. Designate a comfortable resting spot outside the crate. Positive Reinforcement Reward good behavior with treats or praise. This encourages adherence to house rules and reinforces desired behavior. Display patience and affection throughout their transition. With time and consistent guidance, your furry friend will seamlessly integrate into the household, striking a balance between freedom and behavior. Before leaving your dog alone in the crate, be patient and make sure your furry friend is comfortable and safe. For them, the crate should be a positive and safe space, and associating it with negative experiences can cause anxiety and fear. While some time in the crate is acceptable, providing sufficient opportunities for exercise, socialization , and bathroom breaks throughout the day is essential. Maintain a consistent routine and use the same commands each time you place your dog in the crate. Use Toys And Treats: Place toys and treats inside the crate to entice your dog to enter. This will make the crate a more positive and enjoyable environment for them to be in. Ensure your pup gets enough exercise and playtime throughout the day, so your furry companion can relax in the crate when the time comes. Excessive whining, barking, panting, and restlessness are all signs of stress in a Golden Retriever. If your furry friend exhibits these behaviors in the crate, they may be too stressed. Can I use a crate for my adult golden retriever? Yes, as long as it is appropriately sized and they are comfortable in it, you can use a crate for your adult Golden Retriever. Can you leave a puppy crying in the crate? Leaving a crying puppy in the crate is not recommended because it can cause separation anxiety and other behavioral problems. Instead, it is critical to gradually acclimate them to the crate and create a positive and comfortable environment. Should you put a blanket over a dog crate? Yes, draping a blanket over a dog crate can provide a sense of security and darkness, but ensure proper ventilation is maintained. What age is too late to train a puppy? Galen has been connecting quality Golden Retriever breeders with loving families since and is the founder of My Golden Retriever Puppies. He and his wife have four children and love spending time together, traveling lived oversees for 4 years , enjoying the outdoors and connecting Golden families. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. Read the full disclosure here. I know that, and eventually, your dog will know that, too. In this article you will learn exactly how to crate train a puppy or dog, no matter their age or level of previous training. You should read the whole guide before starting, to gain a complete understanding of the process, including the tips and troubleshooting at the end so you can find the speediest success. Why do we do this? We do this so we can use the crate as a place for short-term confinement, to keep our dogs and our belongings safe when we cannot supervise them. Then we can confine them short-term when needed, and they are happy to do so. Yes, they can even enjoy their time in the crate! In contrast: A properly crate trained dog will enjoy time in there happily and stress-free, even relishing the chance to get down to some occupational chew toy time or just to chill out and relax. Dog obedience is key to get this result! Benefits such as: Dramatically speeding up house training. Giving your dog a cozy and comfortable place to call their own where they can sleep and relax, overnight or whenever they wish. Giving you a tool to use for managing problem behaviors or to use for time outs to calm your puppy when needed. Giving you a safe way to transport your dog both by car and air if the need should arise. So they can enjoy trips away and holidays with you. Preparing your puppy for boarding at the vets, a kennel or at home to recover after medical treatment. There are many benefits to using a crate when used correctly, but they can also be misused. And there are also times when you should never crate a dog, regardless of their age or how much or little they can be trusted: Times And Ways That You Should Not Use A Crate There are a small number of dogs that suffer true anxiety and panic when placed in a crate. Under no circumstances should these dogs be crated…ever! The signs you need to look out for are: Any damage to the crate that show signs of attempting to escape. Urinating or defecating in the crate. The crate has moved at all while your dog is inside they must have made some frantic movements for this to happen. Never if your dog has sickness or diarrhea. Never when the weather is extremely hot. Never for any time longer than 5 hours. Not any time your vet prohibits it for medical reasons. Never as a way to punish your dog or for punishment. Use obedience training to correct bad behavior instead. Crating your dog for any of the reasons above is either inhumane, dangerous or purely selfish. Getting Prepared Before you can start crate training, you obviously need a crate. But you also need to make it a comfortable and happy place for your dog. Choosing A Crate Dog sleeping in crate There are many different sizes and style of dog crates available, from tiny inch crates all the way up to inch and bigger! XXL heavy duty dog crates. There are wire dog crates , plastic, fabric and even high quality wooden crates that look just like pieces of furniture. But the most important aspect of the crate you choose is its size: Too small and it would be cruel to expect your dog or puppy to spend time in there Too large and it loses the den like feeling dogs crave, not to mention they can use one end to sleep in while using the other end as a toilet, so it loses its effectiveness. For detailed instructions on measuring your dog for a crate and selecting the right size and type to suit your needs, please see my article: Choosing The Right Size And Type Of Dog Crate 2. Making The Crate Comfortable And Safe Dog In Soft Crate After choosing the right crate, you then have to make it a comfortable, safe and pleasant place for your puppy or dog to love spending time. For a detailed guide on where to place your crate and what you should put in it, you can read my article on: How to make a crate comfortable and safe for your dog. Make sure the crate is out of any direct sunlight, away from heat sources like fireplaces or radiators, and away from any possible cold drafts. Place soft, comfortable bedding inside. Place 2 or more chew toys inside to keep them occupied and develop good chew toy habits. If you have a wire crate, cover it either with a purpose bought crate cover or an old blanket or towel. Following the above 5 tips ensures the crate is a nice comfortable place for your dog. These pose a risk of choking if they happen to snag on anything, so no collars or leashes allowed. Your dog or puppy must be completely naked when crated. You must not rush through and you must make sure you are successful at each stage before you move on to the next, otherwise you could end up causing your dog or puppy to hate the crate by leaving them crated before they are ready. This unfamiliar box can be scary! The ultimate goal is for them to use it voluntarily. So the first task you have on the journey to crate training your puppy or dog is to form in their mind an association between the crate and all the things that they enjoy in life, so they see the crate as a good thing. Fail at this and you could saddle yourself with a dog who hates the crate, refuses to use it and maybe even fears it which can be a very hard thing to undo. So how do you go about achieving this? Technique 1: Magically Appearing Toys And Treats Set up the crate before you bring your dog home or if you have an existing pet, assemble the crate without them seeing so it just magically appears. Now let your dog or puppy into the room. So what should you do? Just act as you normally would, do what you would normally do. Play with your dog or puppy, or sit and watch TV, just act normal. Hopefully they will investigate this new thing in their world, enticed by the treats around and inside it, but also out of plain curiosity. Just draw no attention to the crate at all. Every dog will eventually at least eat the treats around the crate, if not the ones inside. This has the effect of the most prized things in their life being magically conjured up by the crate. Do this for a couple of days or more before you start crate training, and then occasionally for the few weeks after starting so your dog learns to love the crate and what it provides. You should find after a very short time they venture into the crate on their own just to look for some goodies, all without any encouragement from you. NOTE: Any treats you give this way have to be subtracted from their daily food portions or they will be overeating. And I say to do this just for the first few days and then only occasionally because to help house training you want your puppy eating on a schedule to promote defecating on a schedule, not eating at random times and pooping at random times. Feed these meals inside the crate. At first, place their food bowl just inside so they only have to poke their head in to feed. Then after the first couple of times, place it half way into the crate. After a couple of times of this, place it all the way at the back. You might be successful with this right away, or you may have to place it at the front for a few meals over a few days. Some dogs confidence builds quicker than others. Eventually and not before too long you should find your dog expectantly running over to and maybe even into the crate every time they see you holding their food bowl. After a few days of magic appearing treats and your dog eating dinner from the crate, basically once they are used to the crate and associate good things with it, we are ready to start crate training. When you do release your dog you do not want them bolting out and bumping into you, particularly important if you have a large dog such as a Golden Retriever that can easily bowl you over on their way past! You want them to reliably leave the crate when you ask. You can only achieve these three things if your dog understands that they must stay inside until told they can leave, or must leave when they hear the cue word. Choose whatever words you like, just be consistent. You do not want to spook your dog at this stage. Sit close to the crate armed with some high value treats, show them to your dog and then throw one inside the crate. Move away so they can easily exit and just stand patiently and quietly waiting for them to do so. Repeat this 8 to 10 times then take a couple of minutes break. Then do another set of 8 to .Yes, for real. Repeat this whole exercise a few times over the course of a day or two until your dog is comfortably, happily and reliably going in the crate when you throw in a treat. Training your dog to do this is a huge step! Make sure they really are confidently going in to get the treat before moving to the next step. And remember to use your cue words every single time so they quickly learn them. Step 3: No Treat For Free! The next step is to ask your puppy or dog into the crate before you treat them. Make them work for the treat instead of using it to lure them into the crate. To start, do 2 or 3 exercises of throwing a treat in and using the cue word as they go in to get it. When they do, give them a treat or two while you praise them profusely. Then use the cue word to leave and praise them when they do. Repeat this 8 to 10 times, take a couple of minutes break, then do another 8 to 10 before finishing up for this session. Repeat this step many times over the course of a day or two until you are certain your puppy or dog truly understands the commands and is happy to both go into and leave the crate on cue before you move to step 4. Now, many of you will have a dog at this stage that goes in, gets the treat or their toys and cannot wait to get back out again. But some will already be sitting, laying and sleeping in the crate of their own accord. Regardless though, what you want to achieve is your puppy or dog to sit and lie in the crate on cue, which is different to doing it of their own accord. Begin this just a couple of days after getting them home because they need to understand the cues outside of the crate before you can hope to have them follow the commands inside it. Other things you should have been doing before this step are: feeding your dog or puppy their main meals inside the crate occasionally leaving stuffed Kong toys in the crate this gets them used to spending time in there, usually in a sitting or laying position this will have made things easier Now, run through 2 or 3 repetitions of steps 2 and 3 before you start step 4, always remembering to use your chosen cues! Next, when your dog is inside the crate: Simply cue them to sit, praise and reward them profusely when they do. Then ask for a down and do the same. Then cue them to leave the crate before repeating the exercise. Try this 8 to 10 times before a few minutes break, then repeat for 8 to 10 times more. Repeat this whole step a few times over a day or more, but as you repeat the exercises, ask them to stay sitting or lying down for longer periods before you release them. And you should vary the duration to keep them guessing what it takes to earn a treat. Try just 1 second, then 5, then 2, then 10, then 3 and so on. Try to stretch the time out over a few practice sessions. Remember to be gentle and that your tone of voice throughout training matters. As always: Start with 2 or 3 repetitions of the easier steps first, going through steps 3 and 4 before trying to close the door. When ready: Cue your dog to go into the crate, praise and treat them, then ask for a sit, praise and treat and then slowly close the door. You ask for a sit because this position is automatically a more calm and relaxed position than standing. Continue to praise your dog and give a couple of treats through the closed door for remaining calm and sitting. Then open the door, and cue them to leave the crate. If your dog looks fearful or panicked when you close the door some will! Start by closing the door just part way for a few repetitions, then half way for a few, then most the way before finally closing it fully. This may take one training session or a few over days. Are you ready to move on? Once your dog is happy to sit a few seconds with the door closed, begin to latch it. Praise and treat for calm, then release the latch and open the door. For a training session, do 8 to 10 reps, take a few minutes break and then repeat. During each set, vary the time they have to stay calm and sitting, 3 seconds, then 10, then 4, then 15 and so on. You should aim to extend the time they stay calm and sitting with the door closed to a full minute before moving on to the next step. Again, this could take an afternoon, or it might take a few days. Go at your dogs pace and never force things. The base is serving as a staging facility for hurricane relief operations. Air Force photo by Master Sgt. Jack Braden Once your puppy or dog can sit calmly in the crate with the door closed for a full minute, the next step is to start moving away with the ultimate aim of being able to leave the room. First of all, perform a few reps of steps 4 and 5 as a warm up, remembering to always use your cues. Next, follow these steps: Cue your dog into the crate, close the door, latch it, praise and reward them and take a couple of steps backwards away from the crate but still facing it. Then return, praise and reward. Open the door and cue your dog to come out. Do this exercise 8 to 10 times, then take a few minutes break and repeat. For each repetition, mix things up: Try walking away a different distance in a different direction, but remaining in the room. First 2 steps backwards and pause 5 seconds before returning, then 4 steps to the side and a 15 second pause and so on. Work up to walking right to the exit or the wall and pausing for a full minute. Next, you will want to amp things up even more: Perform this exercise while you actively walk around the room, looking busy doing other things, but return to praise and treat your dog often. Tidy some magazines, rustle through a drawer, just look busy doing other things a few times in the house. Then, go even farther: Perform this exercise but back yourself up to the exit of the room and leave for just a couple of seconds before returning and heading to the crate to treat and praise. Do this a few times. The time this takes and the success you have will vary from puppy to puppy and dog to dog. Always stop at 10 repetitions max, and never more than two batches in quick succession followed by a big break. Otherwise your dog will get bored and the training is less effective. Now you just need to start increasing the time they are happy to spend time alone. Before you begin, something that goes a long way toward helping is to make sure your puppy or dog is well exercised before asking them into the crate. Why is that? A tired dog will be far more willing to relax and chill out for a length of time, compared to one who is full of energy and keen to play or wanting attention! After exercising them, the first step is to increase the time they are happy to spend in the crate while you are still nearby. To achieve this: Crate feeding: Feed your dog in the crate, or give them a stuffed Kong toy or good tasting bone chew toy. Hang out nearby: Ask your dog into the crate, give them their food or the toy, then close the door and take a seat nearby to read a book or a magazine. Engage occasionally: Every now and then, give them a further treat and praise, then go back to your book or magazine. Gradual build: Try to work up to a good half hour of quiet and calm in the crate while you read and they chew. Ignore them: After a couple of times like this, crate your dog or puppy with their meal or a stuffed toy and move around the room busying yourself, paying little attention to your dog. You want them to be eating their meal or chewing a toy in the locked crate while you do other things. Leave the room: After a couple of repetitions of this, repeat the exercise but move freely in and out of the room a few times, as well as occasionally sitting nearby. Disappear: Start by leaving the room for only 5 or 10 minutes, extending the time over a few sessions until you eventually achieve a full hour of alone time. As always, how long this takes will vary wildly from puppy to puppy and dog to dog. Go at their pace. It helps massively to succeed in this step if you only ever give your puppy or dog the bone chew toys or stuffed Kongs when in the crate and never outside of it. It builds excitement and anticipation, something to look forward to in the crate. Step 8: The Grand Finale! Wait for them to start chewing and then leave and come back into the room a couple of times. If they stay calm and pre-occupied with their chewing, simply leave the house. Then, do this: Go outside and walk to the bottom of your garden, just hang there for a few minutes and then go back inside and walk around your home for a couple of minutes before going to the crate and your dog. You want them to think that this is nothing, a complete non-event. And certainly do not go straight to them when you come back in. Remember: this even means nothing! From now on, practice alone time in the crate when you leave the house at least a couple of times every day, for varying lengths of time. Never make a fuss of any sort before you go, never make a fuss on your return. Over a few sessions, build up the time you are out of the house with your dog in the crate to a couple of hours as long as they are old enough to hold their bladder this long. You can now use the crate to keep your dog and your belongings safe when you cannot supervise them, and use the crate as a sleeping place for your dog at night. Always leave a few toys in there with your dog, and continue to repeat the exercise where you crate them with a stuffed Kong or chew toy if natural opportunities do not arise, just to keep them happy with the situation. If you have a dog that: Some puppies will take regular naps in the crate before you even start crate training. They might go on to show little interest or care about the door being closed. They might be super confident and happy right away with a little alone time. You might be able to crate train such a dog in just a few short days. Dogs like this can take many weeks to crate train: Some puppies may show fear of the crate and not want to go anywhere near it. Once carefully trained to go in, they might feel panic and fear when you close the door. You have to go at your own dogs pace because if you rush them you can instill dislike or even fear of the crate in their minds, and then it will take far longer than it ever should have. But many or most dogs will take to it quicker, and most puppies certainly will as they have no preconceived ideas, habits or emotions to overcome. When going through the steps above, if your dog excels at any stage you can quickly move to the next step. If they do not, if they show any fear or uncertainty, spend more time at a particular step until they are comfortable before moving on. Your dog will show you when they are ready to progress and you should go at their speed, however fast or slow that may be. They need to be able to: move around exercise their muscles enjoy some mental stimulation If they are regularly crated longer than this, behavioral problems will be the result, as well as the fact they have little in the way of a fulfilling life. In my experience this is a bit optimistic, all dogs are different and when a puppy is very young, this is certainly too long. This is with the exception of puppies from 8 to 12 weeks old who will need letting out once during the night. But after 12 weeks, they can last the whole night through. Crating your dog when you work full-time means two lots of 4 or more hours crated and this is a long time, so quality time, exercise and stimulation before and after crating is essential. Tips For Better Crate Training What follows are a few useful tips to keep in mind when crate training your puppy or dog. They will make the process easier and faster, while making sure your dog is comfortable and happy throughout the process: Always make sure you take your puppy or dog to their bathroom spot before you crate them for any length time. They will be uncomfortable and noisily complain with a full bladder…but rightfully so! Also take them the moment you let them out as they will usually be ready to go. Make sure the crate door is always open and your dog always has access to it so they can use it as and when they please. Most dogs will use it as a place to rest and this is a good thing. Always leave chew toys in the crate for your dog so there is something for them to do while crated. This will minimize boredom and teaches good habits of chewing on the right things. Continue to feed them their meals in the crate. Also, reserve special treats like bones and stuffed Kong toys for the crate only and never outside of it, so they really look forward to spending time there. Exercise your dog or puppy well before crating them for any length of time. A tired dog is one who is happy to relax and chill out. If you find your puppy nodding off and completely unable to stay awake this happens a lot! This will speed up their acceptance of the crate considerably if they snooze and find themselves waking up in there often. The worst thing you can do is force them in because chances are it will heighten their fear and make things even worse. Instead, break the task down into easier steps for your dog by employing some of the following tasks: Practice asking your dog to step in and out of cardboard boxes. First trimming the sides down to look like a small tray, then using further boxes and increasing height of the sides. Place bedding in the box and practice asking them to lay down. Some dogs may not like the roof aspect of the crate. Ask your dog to step underneath, even sit under there yourself and read a book while enticing them over for treats. Start with a big gap and a wide area covered, then lessen the gap between furniture in later training sessions to make it feel more crate like over time. If you have a plastic travel style crate airline crate then remove the top half and practice having them step in and out of the bottom half only. Start asking your dog to step into the bottom tray only. Then put on 2 of the walls for a couple of training sessions. Then three walls for a few sessions. Then the roof until finally the crate is fully assembled. Then cover the back third of the pens roof with a sheet and do the same. Then cover a half. Then remove a part of the pen to make the area smaller and ask them in to play with them. Whichever of the above you try, make sure an exit is wide open and easy for your dog to use for escape so they will feel less anxious. And take things very slowly, making sure they are visibly comfortable at any stage before taking a next step. After a few days maybe more of slowly getting them used to stepping into things that progressively get more and more crate like, you should be able to begin crate training. This type of reinforcement will not help the cries. Yes, you getting angry and telling your dog off will actually make the issue worse. This will train them to think that if they cry long and loud enough, you will eventually come and let them out. Not a good idea. Wait for 5 seconds silence before you approach, then give them a treat. You ruined it! Wait for at least 5 seconds of silence before you return, then treat them. Enough repetitions of this will teach them that silence gets rewarded and noise makes you go away. Why did they whine? You might want to go back a step or two in your crate training though. Make sure they are comfortably happy and silent in the crate, for a reasonable length of time with the door latched and you present, before you ever try to leave them alone. Young puppies cannot hold it through the night without having a potty break. But how do you know if the whines are because they need to eliminate or just crying for attention? For a puppy 8 to 9 weeks old, you will need to set an alarm to take them to potty twice during the night, at 2. For a puppy 9 to 12 weeks old, set an alarm to take them to potty half way through the night, 3. Make sure you do not feed them anything in the 3 hours before bed, take away water at least 2 hours before bed, and take them to their toilet spot to empty themselves as the very last thing you do before you go to bed. When you take them to potty, make sure you do so in silence. No playing, no words, no attention, otherwise they will learn that night-time is a time for play and attention. You obviously do not want this. They are very different things. But if when you leave your dog alone crated they show these symptoms: anxiety.

To achieve this goal we keep dogs from each generation to produce our very unique Goldendoodles. This is the foundation of our breeding program. Everything that we breed goes back to the F1 English Goldendoodles. This proved to be very successful for allergy sufferers and more families were able to experience the love of a dog. F1B Goldendoodles will have a higher success rate for non-shedding and are recommended for families with moderate to severe allergies. This breeding allows us to produce the Smeraglia type that everyone knows and loves. They also have a high success rate for non-shedding and are recommended for families with moderate to severe allergies. Many families desire this breeding because it can have a little more Golden Retriever than the F1B. Most are low to non-shedders. Sometimes, they may even look more like the Retriever side of the family with a flat more sporty coat, rather than the soft fluffy Teddy Bear coats. This generation is often sought after from the Retriever lover that wants a smaller or less shedding Retriever like doodle. This is a more rare breeding. Subscribe Stay up to date with us, our whereabouts, and events in your area. All our mother dogs give birth and raise their puppies inside the house. We believe to properly develop, each litter must live in the main part of the house and receive constant attention. To do this, we enlist Guardian Home raisers who keep the mother dog at their house until the puppies are weaned. Once weaned, the puppies come to the Safari Doodles ranch to get ready for their new homes. We know that how your puppy is raised makes all the difference. How do I know if Safari Doodles is a reputable breeder? Here at Safari Doodles we fully health test our parent dogs. In addition, the whole line of genetics prior to the parents are health tested as well. Safari Doodles carefully breeds our dogs to ensure each litter has the proper pairing of genetics. Safari Doodles began breeding doodles in .We have imported show dogs from Europe. We purchased dogs from well known service dog lines. Our Golden Retrievers and Poodles have outstanding pedigrees. To see more about our Golden Retriever line, see our Golden Retrievers page. Safari Doodles has a wide spread reputation for producing great dogs and our reviews on FaceBook reflect this. Our referrals are endless. Safari Doodles main focus is to produce Service Dogs for people with disabilities. Our list of puppies who were placed to become Service dogs are in the hundreds. We have many vets who refer their clients to consider us for their next Goldendoodle. Dog trainers, groomers, whole neighborhoods refer to us. It is important to us to do whatever it takes to keep the integrity of the Safari Doodles name alive. How much is a Safari Doodles puppy? As of summer the wait time to receive a puppy is months. How do I reserve a Safari Doodles puppy? Please fill out a Puppy Application. Tell us what size, color, coat type, generation, temperament type and any other particulars you desire in a Goldendoodle. Our specialty is helping you with the perfect placement by learning what you desire and knowing our genetics. We Volhard Temperament Test our puppies to guide the match making. Do you need a dog for a child with special needs? That is our specialty. Our focus at Safari Doodles is breeding the best genetics, paired with quality raising to match families with the exact dog for their needs. Watch our Goldendoodle puppies playing in our house Adult Goldendoodles, made by Safari Doodles no, these dogs are not available, these dogs all have homes Sage, 35lb F1 Goldendoodle.

What Pet Owners Say "Very Professional" "My husband and I have always dreamt of having a golden and the Matheson's of Iron Range made our dream not only a reality but a truly amazing and interactive experience from start to finish! From the moment we put in our deposit we were updated on our litter every step of the way! As soon as pups were born we got weekly photo updates and got to meet our pup in person at about 5 weeks. The Matheson's have a beautiful property and take such good care of the puppies and their own dogs! We love our Ludo! Jessica was SO great a communicating. We got updates at least once a week with pictures and videos. The amount of research, love and care that goes into their breeding is unmatched! We recommend them to all our friends and family!! Jessica was amazing keeping us updated with lots of pictures as well as letting us know how our guy was doing. Our family couldn't have asked for a better or more beautiful dog! Our Otis has the most amazing personality and soul. He is very gentle and very intuitive to how people are feeling. He passed his basic obedience and is now heading for his cgc title. He has shown perfect qualities to being a service dog for our son who is autistic, we have been training him to perform tasks that will help our son! He learns so fast it's amazing! This breeding is animal husbandry, breeding times are based on educated estimates, but cannot be exact. Here, we raise, breed and train our dogs. We maintain game birds such as ducks, pheasants and pigeons that are utilized for professional training services. Our facility includes 30 private acres with a professional technical training pond close to our home. We work to build personalized training options for every client. Our family has been devoted to breeding the best Labrador Retrievers possible for our growing Den family since we began in .Our pups have been placed with families all throughout the United States and Canada. We not only strive to place pets in homes that hunt and train their animals for professional field trials and hunt test but also as family and therapy pets. Its ability to adapt and train easily are some of their most endearing characteristics. Finding a good breeder that offers thorough research, health guarantees and life-time support for your pet is imperative. We hope that you choose us for your next family member! I love everyone of them and their parents that took the pictures!! We are a breeder of Golden Retriever puppies in Minnesota. Welcome to Angels of Gold Golden Retrievers. My name is Lori. I have been a golden retriever breeder for over 35 years. One of the newest members of the family is Vivian. She was out of the litter of 12 when Talia passed away. Brodie was the Patriarch of our Gang, having sired 10 litters, 1 with our dear Angel and 9 of them to dams owned by others. Many of those dam owners and adoptive parents keep in touch with me and are all very good references and some have become very good friends. Brodie came into our lives in May of .He has great Champion Bloodlines. I am hoping I can get Champion and competition titles on my 2 young girls in the future. Check out their individual pages for photos. I live on 20 beautiful acres in North central Minnesota, with 3 ponds for them to train and swim in. We breed for health, temperament, performance and beauty. They will excel in performance, conformation, field, anything you desire to do and most of all they will be your best friend!

Share on X Twitter This funny video will definitely have you giggling! If you are a dog owner, you could probably attest to how much your pooch loves you. He waits for you to get home every single day, gives you the best morning kisses, and always wants to be wherever you are — sometimes, even in the bathroom! These special creatures are definitely clingy and sweet, and we just love them all the more for it. The Golden Retriever featured in the funny video below is one example of a clingy dog. In the clip, a woman — presumably his owner — is seen sleeping on the sofa with another goldie pup. Facebook The pair seemed to have settled in a comfortable position, and the puppy seemed to be getting ready for his snooze time. Suddenly, the jealous dog dragged the clueless pup off the couch and proceeded to take his place! But by the end of the short clip, the poor pup stood up and disappeared from view. As of writing, the post has received , reactions and , shares. Others who have a similar breed shared their own Golden Retriever stories. Watch the adorable clip below — for sure, you will play it over and over! Please share the story to your family and friends. Share 14k shares Weasel's adorable reaction was shared online by her owner, Mr Shen, who spotted the scene while watching the replay from his home security camera. Footage from yesterday morning shows the home-alone pet lying on her back while having a cosy nap on the sofa. Weasel is seen slowly opening her eyes as she stretched her legs and started turning towards the edge of the couch. As she rolled over, the sleepy golden retriever tumbled from the sofa and landed on the floor. Woken up by the sudden fall, the animal is seen looking around while lying down, seemingly trying to figure out what had just disrupted her sweet dream. Weasel's adorable reaction was shared online by her owner, Mr Shen, who spotted the scene while watching the replay from his home security camera. The family dog's funny reaction amused hundreds of thousands after the owner shared the footage on Douyin This is not the first time Weasel has fallen while she's asleep, according to the pet owner from eastern Chinese city Yancheng. One user wrote: 'Hahaha this is how I look like when I just wake up from a nap! Mr Shen described his eight-year-old dog as 'clumsy and careless' Another commenter said: 'This made me laugh so much. She even did a split after falling! So cute. The group of well-behaved animals is seen standing next to the pavement as they waited for the stream of traffic to pass by. After the motorists stopped for the red light, the canines began walking towards the other side of the street as onlookers watched in amazement. Read more: Share or comment on this article: Dog falls off couch: Snoozing golden retriever rolls off sofa while having a big stretch. The clip, with more than 3 million views and posted under the username 3goldens1heart, shows Gus as he "slides" off the couch, much to the amusement of owner Kayla. The caption reads: "Now this is the only way he gets off. It's the slide of nothing. The way in which the month-old golden retriever gets himself off the furniture has left the internet in stitches. First seen at a British dog show in , golden retrievers were brought to America by way of Canada around this time. They were recognized as a breed by the AKC in .Sport hunters were drawn to the agile nature of the dogs, while others fell for their sweet temperament and flowing golden coat. The popularity of the breed in the U. Today, the breed is loved for its joyous and playful approach to life and energetic nature. Affectionate, good with other dogs and children, they make a great family p et. Thousands of commenters on the TikTok video thought that Gus' slide was hilarious as people rushed to share their reactions. Since the first slide-move, Gus has taken to using this tactic to get off the couch every time. He jumps up onto the couch but slides off when he's sleepy. Do you have funny and adorable videos or pictures of your pet you want to share? Send them to life newsweek. Read more.

We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. As we all know too well, what we put in our belly has a huge impact on our health, vitality, length and quality of life. They have to strike a fine balance between getting enough nutrients to grow and avoiding an over-abundance that can lead to abnormal growth and disabling conditions. In this article you will learn precisely how to feed your puppy. What they can eat, what they should not, how many times you should feed them each day, basic information on home-made diets and the pros and cons of various commercial dog foods. The majority of Labrador owners feed their puppy kibble. Kibble is ground meal, shaped into dried biscuit-like pellets that are extremely convenient to buy, store and feed, providing everything a puppy needs in one easy to handle product. All the major brands carry a range of kibble and many are specifically formulated to suit the precise needs of puppies. For our recommendations of the best puppy food for labs, please read our article on: The Best Food for Labrador Puppies. Good breeders will supply you with all the information you need to feed your new puppy and you should follow this advice. Puppies almost always get upset tummies during a change of diet. The stress of moving to a new home is enough to deal with without them potentially having tummy upset on top. So try to avoid this. But expect your puppy to get diarrhea after such a sudden change. What Can Puppies Eat? With a bewildering choice of different puppy foods available, what to feed your puppy may not be the easiest decision to make. You Can Feed Your Puppy Kibble Kibble is ground up food, formed into pellets and dried for easy storage and convenience. It is a specially formulated, complete and balanced diet, containing everything a puppy needs to grow and be healthy. Many people believe kibble is the best way to feed a puppy, with it being so easy to buy, store and feed while containing every nutrient a puppy needs in the right proportions. Wet, Complete Puppy Foods Are An Option As the name suggests, complete wet dog food is complete and balanced, meaning nothing should be fed in combination. Everything needed is included in this one food. Complete wet foods come in individual pouches or tins with one pouch or tin containing one single serving. In the main these foods are low in nutrition, contain a high amount of cheap fillers, by-products and water and need mixing with a biscuit to give them some substance and to make them more complete. Because the food is such low quality, you have to feed a lot of it. And what goes in, must come out. This type of feeding was popular decades ago and I do remember my parents feeding our first dogs this way, but most people have moved on from this and are feeding their dogs in better ways now. Raw Food, BARF And Home-Made Diets Raw feeding is a diet that consists of mostly raw meat, edible bones and animal organs, though most practitioners also mix in small portions of fruit, veg and selected other foodstuffs. There are many people feel strongly that this is the best possible way to feed a dog. But I would caution most people that to feed this diet successfully, you need to do A LOT of research, gain a lot of knowledge and truly understand a dogs nutritional needs to make sure they get exactly what they need in the right amounts. Many people wonder if they can feed their puppy human foods, anything found in the fridge or larder. Furthermore, there are many human foods that are toxic to dogs that you should avoid at all costs. Too much of some nutrients can be bad in itself, but also prevent the absorption and use of other nutrients too. So supplementing a balanced diet is a bad thing to do. Can You Give Puppies Milk? Assuming you get your puppy at the recommended 8 weeks, they will have been fully weaned before you bring them home. Many puppies are intolerant of cows milk and drinking it leads to an upset tummy and diarrhea so you would do best to avoid giving your puppy any milk at all. One exception is for very young puppies under 6 weeks of age. When we have newborn puppies at our house we sometimes need to supplement and use Esbilac Milk Supplemen t. However, if you have a very young puppy that you think may need supplementing please first consult with your veterinarian. Are They Necessary? You will likely be feeding your puppy a commercially available complete and balanced dog food, in which case you certainly should not supplement their food. Supplementing this will mean too much of one or more things, making it unbalanced which can actually lead to harm. But an excess amount of calcium in the diet of a Lab puppy can lead to skeletal development problems. So adding a calcium supplement to an already complete diet can actually do more harm than good. There may also be times your vet advises you to do so. But if feeding raw, you should know more about nutrition than I do. This is a hard question to answer and sadly I cannot give you a definite quantity or weight to feed them each day. Puppies grow at different rates, some are more active than others and there can be large differences between metabolisms too. However… The biggest determining factor is how concentrated the nutrients and calories are in the brand of food you feed them. High quality foods are nutrient rich and give a puppy all they need from quite small amounts of food. But cheaper brands are full of low quality and nutritionally empty fillers that mean a puppy needs considerably more to get what they need. Start by feeding your puppy according to the guidelines on the label of the puppy food you buy for them. Then see how their body develops. Puppies should not be fat! But at the other end of the scale if they start to look and feel a little slim, up their portion sizes a little. The guidelines on the food you buy are just that…guidelines. You might also be interested in:. Naturally, Labrador puppies would require more feeding times. Hence, you should only set a few hours interval between meals. As for adult Labs, optimal feeding times would be one in the morning, afternoon, and night. Almost identical to human eating hours. Along with implementing a time frame for mealtime, owners must be open to modifying combinations of puppy food throughout the first two years of the pup. Abrupt growth spurts may bring changes in their eating habits. Once your dog reaches one year old, its dog food is enough to sustain its energy for longer. Always ensure to follow the correct feeding schedule when feeding kibble or other types of dog food to ensure nutritional requirements are met. Regardless if you have chocolate , red fox , or Dudley Labrador , make it a priority to visit a pet nutritionist to obtain an accurate feeding time and quantity specifically designed for your pooch. They help in hunting, farming, and even therapy. As such, they require an energy-loaded diet and dog foods that are rich in protein and carbohydrates to keep up with their activities. Since they belong to the large breed classification, they are also prone to common health risks such as arthritis and other joint diseases. To prevent this, scour the local pet store with dog food that contains omega fatty acids, B vitamins, beta-carotene , and amino acids. These nutrients are essential to obtain, whether from a raw food diet, home-prepared meals, or commercial dog food. Here are some of the best dog foods we recommend for your Labrador Retriever: Wet Food: Like kibble, commercially available wet dog food is common and already a complete and balanced diet for your Labrador puppy or adult dog. Its smooth texture is well-loved by purebreds and mixed breeds alike. Eating wet food that contains Docosahexaenoic acid DHA , glucosamine, and Eicosapentaenoic acid EPA helps support the condition of their joints and heart. Dry Food: When on the hunt for the most suitable dry dog food, always look for grain-free and made from whole food sources so it can easily be digested. Also, check the food labels and ensure that it has a perfect balance of carbohydrates and fats. Highly fortified and breed-specific kibble is also recommended. Homemade Food: Considering how much your adult dog or Lab puppy eats, a healthy diet made from scratch can be a great alternative to avoid obesity. Just mix everything together with a little water to incorporate them better. Furthermore, this diet opts for low sodium content. Owners should include fish and flaxseed oil, carrots, eggs, liver, and beans into the raw puppy food diet. Since Labrador Retrievers are energetic and active dogs, it is best to give them a moderate to high-fat diet. As long as they are able to exercise daily, they can easily work it off and avoid being overweight. However, if they are more on the lax side, adjust their food intake from low to moderate calories. If they cannot burn off the calories, enroll them in a low-fat or low-protein diet instead. Excessive carbs can increase their blood sugar and may put your dogs at risk for diabetes. It may take extra time and effort, but the investment will definitely pay off. Once you learn the appropriate feeding pattern, then having a healthy dog with strong joints and a better digestive and immune system is easily attainable. That includes sharing our belongings, space, and most especially, our food. However, the American Kennel Club reminds owners to be aware of what human food is safe for dogs. In this section, you will learn which foods are okay for consumption and which food can harm our Labrador Retrievers. Physically, it can block their esophagus if not chewed properly. Moreover, some may also contain salt that can be fatal to their heart. Chocolate: Chocolate in any other form should not be given to dogs. Chocolate has toxic substances called methylxanthines that put a stop to their metabolic process. It can still be toxic even in the smallest amount as it may cause diarrhea or vomiting. Garlic and Allium Plants: Alliums such as garlic, chives, leeks, and onions are not good for dog consumption. Although regularly seen across social media, feeding your pooch ice cream is not recommended. It contains loads of sugar, and some dogs may be lactose intolerant as well. As an alternative, owners can always freeze berries and apples as a regular icy treat. On the contrary, here are some of the most friendly human foods for all dogs, including Labrador Retrievers: Milk: Milk is a great supplement of other nutrients for dogs. Just be mindful that your dog is not lactose intolerant. It should only be given in small quantities as a treat. Popcorn: On a movie night, dogs can also munch on popcorn. However, ensure that it is unsalted, unflavored, and air-popped. In moderation, it is a good source of thiamine and riboflavin for eyesight. Remove any unpopped kernels to avoid choking. Seafood: In addition, seafood such as salmon and shrimp contain good fats and are high in antioxidants. Seafood boosts their immune system and brain health. Be sure to thoroughly cook salmon, fish, and shrimp all the way through to avoid parasites. Eggs: Eggs are also safe for dogs so long as they are also cooked well. Cheese: Cheese can also be given to dogs in moderate quantities. Go for low-fat cheese as a treat. Mozzarella and cottage cheese are some that can be fully enjoyed by dogs without the fat guilt. A small amount of prohibited food is not worth an emergency trip to a vet. Throughout their life stages, a dog will not just undergo one food switch. Age, health, and other factors can fuel a change in their diet. As stated earlier, an abrupt change in their food will only cause an upset stomach and indigestion. There are a couple of reasons to switch food. Add the new food into each meal gradually and reduce the portion of their current food. This method can also be followed when changing from dry kibble to raw feeding and vice versa. Some reasons for change can be prompted by age. Different life stages will require different nutritional requirements for your dog. Other reasons may be caused by allergies, brand availability, and weight management. It is still best to consult your trusted vet about changing their overall food regimen. They just enjoy feeding their pooch with tons of food and love seeing them get fat. However, that is not considered proper care for them. Experienced dog breeders know precisely what an overweight dog looks like and how to feed them properly. Labradors are known for their love of food. They are incapable of switching off their hunger signals even after eating. As a result, Labs have a higher number of overweight dogs in the United States. Like with other dogs, overfeeding a dog can lead to obesity. Thankfully, there are ways to address this and protect the health of our pooch in the long run. An eye-opening first step is to have a handy Labrador food guide. Having this will help you gauge the correct amount of food your dog needs depending on its age and other factors as well. Log what they eat and how much they eat during each meal. Calculating their calorie intake is also helpful for medical purposes and when switching food. Furthermore, avoid feeding overweight dogs table scraps. Many owners are guilty of this habit. Much like table scraps, it is also best to limit dog treats. Entice dogs with treats only on special occasions and during training. These are just some of the simple things you can do to control an overweight pooch. When it comes to other methods, it is always advisable to speak with your vet. Dogs lose their appetite due to some reasons. Do Labrador Retrievers Eat a lot? Yes, Labrador Retrievers are a food-motivated breed. This is why owners need to control their food intake. Can Labrador Retrievers Eat Bones? Bones are a good source of minerals, so they can be good for Labrador Retrievers. However, it may come with serious physical trade-offs. Give only large, raw bones and supervise them from time to time. Dispose of the bone after 3 to 4 days. Can Labrador Retrievers Be Vegetarians? Yes, Labrador Retrievers can thrive with a proper vegetable diet in place. In fact, soy and other whole grains are perfect substitutes for meat for protein. However, a vegetarian diet is something that needs professional input from vets. Final Thoughts Labs are the most popular dog breed in the United States. Thus, there are a lot of available materials on how to take care of and feed this easy-going pooch properly. For starters, it is highly recommended to have a Labrador feeding schedule to guide you with the amount and frequency of feeding. Although Labrador food is accessible for purchase anywhere, you can also introduce them in a raw diet or homemade meals. Regardless of what type of food you choose to give, you need to ensure to feed your dog a complete diet that supports their growth and overall health. As an owner, it is a big responsibility to provide them with only the best, so these high-spirited companions can have a happy and longer life. Will you follow this Labrador food guide? What are your feeding methods with your pooch? Share and comment your thoughts below! My passion for animals started at a very young age as I grow up on a farm with several horses, cows, cats, chickens, and dogs on our property. Leave a Comment. When do you switch from puppy food to adult food? Are you a first-time, inexperienced puppy owner? Are you confused about what to feed your Labrador puppy? Do you wish to provide your beloved puppy with the best diet but are confused as to what that is? We have compiled this article for you to help you figure out the best options for your puppy. What to feed your puppy? What are the different types of food available? There is no one food type that everyone agrees to be the best and most effective for your Labrador puppies. Even experts disagree on what type of food is the absolute best for your beloved puppy. There are 4 main types of food for dogs. Each one of them has its fair share of pros and cons. Kibble or dry food Many people regard kibble as the best food for puppies. Dry food is by far the most popular feeding method due to its convenience and price. But is it any good? If you go for high-quality kibble food brands, you can be sure that the food is providing your dog with all the necessary nutrients it requires. However, if you choose to go for cheaper brands of kibble, you will not only be unsure of the quality of the food, but they will also lack the necessary nutrients that your dog requires. It is convenient, cost-effective in the long run, and comes in a wide range of flavors. However, dogs can become bored of kibble, and they will never be as excited to eat dry food as to eat actual meat. Despite criticism, this type of dog food has some benefits. This makes cleaning after your dog much easier for you. It also reduces the risk of bloat, which can be a potentially fatal condition. Dogs fed on kibble are more at risk of bloat. It makes them clean, glowing, and shiny. It reduces the risk of obesity, and your dog enjoys a slim but healthy figure. Dogs enjoy eating meat more than they enjoy eating dry food. However, there are some cons to a completely raw diet. When dogs bite down on a bone, they swallow small fragments that could form a blockage in the intestine. This blockage, in the best-case scenario, causes constipation, and in the worst-case scenario requires immediate veterinary surgery. Wet food cans and pouches A puppy might prefer wet food over kibble as it looks and tastes way more appetizing. However, as in the case of dry food, if you choose a cheap brand, it will not have the essential nutrients your puppy needs. So choose high-quality brands that will ensure the nutrition that your puppy needs. An advantage of wet food, compared to dry food, is that it contains a higher percentage of liquid, which helps hydrate the dog and make it feel fuller. Home-cooked puppy food If you are reluctant to buy mass-produced puppy food from the market, you can always prepare a homemade meal for your dog. You have to make sure that the meal consists of all the necessary nutrients required by your dog. How much should you feed your puppy? Like human babies or any baby animals, puppies also need more meals than adult dogs. A puppy will need about 3 or 4 meals a day. If you are feeding your puppy 3 meals a day, and your pup has loose stools, then take the amount of food for 3 meals, and divide it into 4 meals in a day. How do you recognize quality puppy food? There are a lot of choices to choose from when you go to buy puppy food. So how do you choose the one with the best quality? If you go for one of the well-known, popular, and widely consumed brands, the chances are that the puppy food of these brands is of high quality; hence, their popularity. So, do not be reluctant to spend some bucks, and get your beloved puppy the food it deserves. What is to be done if your puppy is not eating? Not all puppies are greedy for more and more food. It is a proven fact that puppies tend to eat more when they are eating in a group, and generally eat less when they are eating less. Hence, for the first few days that your puppy spends without its brothers and sisters, it may not eat as much and have a reduced appetite. Usually, a reduced appetite is not something to worry about, but it is best to mention it to your vet in the next checkup or if the problem continues to persist. Click here to find the best dog food for your Labrador Puppy When do you switch from puppy food to adult food? A small dog like a Chihuahua might become an adult when it is around 9 months of age. However, a larger dog breed like a Labrador will need another 4 to 6 months to become an adult. You also have to reduce the amount of food you give to your dog as it will not need as much food as an adult as it is needed as a puppy. You may also change dog food brands if you feel like it. Now that you are aware of different alternatives of puppy food that are available for you, and of some main questions regarding dogs and their food, it is time for you to decide what type of food will suit your dog the best and what brand you are going to purchase your dog food from if you are not making a homemade meal. If you want to find the best pet insurance for your labrador, click here. The source of protein matters when considering a high-quality diet. FATS The rest of the diet should be made up of fats, carbs, and vitamins. Labs need to have a correct protein -to-fat ratio, where protein takes the lead. Dogs tend to convert fat into glucose, so this is an important source of energy. Dogs rely mostly on protein and fats, but carbs are necessary. That said, a low carb diet is best for puppies. However, you still need the right percentage of carbs, since this gives your dog the sensation of being full. These include starches, fibers, and sugars. Try to opt for more complex carbs like starchy grain and veggies because these are easier to digest. Your Lab puppy will thrive when his or her diet includes: Vitamin B12 especially during puppy development , Vitamins A and E, C, Vitamin D, phosphorus, and calcium, Potassium Each of these required vitamins and minerals contributes to a healthy, happy, and energetic puppy. They also help offset issues like obesity. Vitamins A and E are important because they help your dog burn calories and promote eye and skin health. Vitamin D, calcium, and phosphorus, on the other hand, are part of a trifecta that works to strengthen teeth and bones. Potassium is a heart health-preserver. Labs with poor genetics are especially prone to orthopedic issues. Osteoarthritis and hip dysplasia are common health problems for this breed. Glucosamine, an amino-sugar, together with chondroitin sulfate, helps replace and support naturally degrading cartilage during old age. Recently,"grain-free" foods are being championed as a preferred and even high-quality form of dog food. That's, not the whole story. An investigation launched by the FDA revealed that there are potential links between a form of canine heart disease and grain-free foods. So far, researchers have provided an update to this researchers have provided an update to this research staring that the issue may not just be grain-free diets. Grain-free may be part of other trends knows as "BEG"- boutique companies. Puppy diets don't' need to be complicated. They also don't need to include ingredients that humans might enjoy. Enjoyment doesn't necessarily bring any nutritional value to your puppy's development. Keep it simple, using the guidelines for fats, proteins, and carbs above and don't shy away from food with grains in them. It's not their presence that's a problem it's often the ratio. There shouldn't be more carbs or grains than protein. Nor does including only legumes, seeds, lentils, or chickpeas as the primary ingredients make the food more superior. It's perfectly healthy to include complex carb sources like starchy rice and other grains. Grain-free isn't and shouldn't be a qualifying factor for your choice in puppy food. Feeding Your Puppy Kibble Kibble is dried, pelleted food that stores well is easy to eat, and is pre-formulated with everything your puppy needs to thrive and grow in his early developmental months. There are plenty of popular brands that don't measure up to the Snowy Pines standard. That's why it's so vital for you to learn how to read puppy food labels. Puppies should stick with "puppy stage" food, while adults should stick to bags marked "adults. Instead, your dog should have regular bowel movements, allowing them to absorb all the nutrients available. You should also keep in mind that caloric intake is calculated a little differently for puppies. Kibble diets are measured by how many calories the proteins, fats, and carbs represent for each gram. For puppies, this should be 3. Sticking to these ratios will help ensure your kibble choice is a healthy one. It's also important to note that kibble calories are often higher when compared to wet food. If it's high-quality wet food, it won't have as much fat to preserve it, which means fewer calories. You may have to supplement with dry food, especially if you're trying to keep the calories of carbs, proteins, and fats in the right per-gram ratio. How often and what time to feed I will show you the best puppy foods, whether dry, wet, or raw, and look at food safety, together with schedules, quantities and even a handy puppy diet chart. Best Puppy Food for Labs The best Labrador puppy food provides a diet that is nutritious, healthy, and tasty. So, what is the best puppy food for your Lab? Puppy kibble or dried food is the most popular option. Kibble is complete and can give a perfectly balanced diet. Puppy kibble and tinned dog meat combined is another common choice among puppy parents. Feeding your Labrador puppy on home cooked food or on a totally raw diet is also possible. Raw puppy food is growing in popularity, and there are pros and cons to raw feeding your puppy. People often feel very strongly that one way of feeding is better than another, and you can always find evidence to support your view. Dog breeders, veterinarians and even nutritionists have their own strong views. The dire consequences they list for not listening to them can have puppy owners very worried. The truth is that there is no good quality evidence showing that kibble is better for the long term health of your dog, or that raw feeding is better. There are risks and benefits to both, and the main thing is to ensure that your dog has good quality food to eat. Puppy kibble suits some better, and raw puppy food is better for others. Puppy Kibble for your Labrador Puppy food made into pellets is called kibble. An airtight plastic container or tin will do the job, although you should make sure it is food grade quality. Puppy kibble is the best way of feeding your Labrador according to most breeders and your veterinarian is most likely to support this method of feeding. Good puppy kibble will contain every nutrient your Labrador puppy needs in order to grow and remain healthy. The kibble pieces will be tasty, good for keeping teeth healthy, and free from additives that can provoke allergies or stomach problems. Labrador puppy kibble only needs to be fed next to water. Puppy kibble from a reputable manufacturer is intended to be a complete and balanced food. But some owners like to mix in canned dog food or even scraps of raw food with kibble. Your puppy is likely to get an upset stomach or to not have the right balance of nutrition when fed this way. Whether you decide to feed only with kibble or you want to mix it up, pick a good dried food manufacturer and stick with them. Feeding your Labrador puppy raw food has its benefits and drawbacks. One of the downsides is that there is a lot to learn. Here is a link to the articles you need to help you decide whether or not raw feeding is for you: Although I like the raw diet for my dogs, most puppies fed kibble go on to have long and healthy lives. Whatever puppy food you choose, the most important thing is portion control. How Much to Feed your Labrador Puppy? People often tell me how much their puppy weighs, and ask how much puppy food they should give him. Your Labrador is particularly at risk if they grow too quickly. The following diet chart is for kibble fed puppies and does not apply to raw fed pups. It gives you an idea of how much to feed your Labrador puppy Lab Puppy Feeding Chart The Lab puppy feeding chart below is only a very rough guide. The quantity of food you need for your puppy will vary depending on your puppy and on the brand of food you are feeding him. Labrador puppy food must be aimed at medium to large breed dogs. Check the pack carefully and look at the dietary charts. Ideally, you want the optimal protein content and the lowest amount of additives. Part of this always comes down to the cost. The healthiest puppy food is usually the most expensive and may not be affordable for some families. The Cost Of Puppy Food Some puppy food brands are more concentrated than and contain a higher proportion of proteins, essential oils, and other nutrients. The absence of these fillers means that you can often feed lower quantities of more costly food, making them less expensive than they first seem. You might also find that cheaper brands make your puppy poop more due to those extra fillers going straight through him. While some brands are beyond the budget of many families, it is usually good to buy a premium brand. High Quality Brands of Puppy Food Some brands of puppy food have developed a reputation for producing a high quality product and have many devoted supporters, including breeders that have fed them to generations of puppies. The best food for Labrador puppies to consume in their first two to four months of life is milk from their mother. This specialised care is usually left to trained breeders or veterinarians, who are knowledgeable in caring for pups with no mother to nurse from. If you have recently brought a Labrador puppy into your family, they are most likely older than 8 weeks, and so have started to eat solid foods. You can do this by mixing some dry food with specially formulated puppy milk to form a soft mixture. You can feed your puppy this mixture three to four times a day. Over time, you can reduce the amount of milk you include in this mixture, until they are at the point where they are happily eating dry foods. Read on to learn how much you should feed a Labrador puppy as they get older. In their four months living with you, and once they are weaned off milk, Labradors are likely to reach almost half their adult weight. They will reach their full adult weight by the time they are 6 to 7 months old. With this rapid growth can come some risks. Labradors can be susceptible to bone growth disorders, like hip dysplasia and joint abnormalities that can start in puppyhood. Once your Lab puppy hits 6 months, their growth begins to slow down. Once puppyhood is over, you can move to feeding your lab twice a day instead of 3 or 4 times. Labs are still very active in their adolescent years, and so should be fed with this in mind. The transition from puppy food to adult food should happen at around 15 months. This is because, being a breed who grows very quickly, you want to ensure that you are feeding them according to their large breed needs. You need to take special care when considering what you should feed your Labrador puppy, as they require different nutrients compared to their adult counterparts. It is also dangerous for a puppy to overeat. Labradors are large breeds, which means they need plenty of nutrients and calories as they grow to ensure they go from being active puppies to healthy adult dogs. Labrador puppies need to eat food that is high in proteins and fats. Carbohydrates are also essential for supporting your active pup. Aside from nutritionally complete dry puppy food, Labrador puppies can benefit from the extra protein that raw meat can provide them with, such as lean beef, turkey, chicken, or fish. The amount of food you give your Labrador is determined by their weight, energy levels, and age. For most adult Labradors, around 1, to 2, calories per day from high quality food sources is ideal. Female Labradors, who tend to be around 5 to 10 kilos lighter than males, may need less food, as will less active dogs. Dogs who need less food, whether they are less active or simply older, will usually still need around 1, to 1, calories per day. You may want to alter the amount of food you are feeding your Labrador based on how calorically dense their food is. Adult Labradors should be fed twice a day, once in the morning and once in the evening. Their daily allotment of food should be split evenly between these two meals. For most dogs, it is recommended that you exercise your dog before meal times to assist with potty training. However, some dogs may benefit from exercise after eating: especially high energy Labs with a lot of energy to burn off. You should also try to give your Labrador a high quality food that is specially designed for large breeds, especially if they are very active. For example, less active senior dogs will need to eat less food as they will not be burning calories as quickly as a lively little puppy will. Senior dogs may benefit from a higher fibre and lower calorie diet. Your dog may also develop chronic or short term medical conditions that require specially formulated food. For example, Labradors can be particularly susceptible to obesity. As a breed, they tend to be one of the most commonly obese dogs in Australia. This is due to several factors, including a genetic predisposition to unhealthy weight gain and a famously large appetite. However, plenty of Labs suffering from obesity are simply overfed and not getting enough exercise. Choosing a low carb diet is crucial to preventing obesity in your Labrador. If you are unsure about what you should feed your Labrador, you should always consult your vet. They will be able to determine if your dog is suffering from any chronic health issues, and they will be able to create a nutritional plan to help keep your dog healthy and happy for many years to come. Wet food for Labradors is often high in protein and fat, and is better at keeping your dog hydrated than other food sources. Chewing on dry food can be especially good for teething Labrador puppies. A raw diet can be a good option for your Labrador as you have more control over the kinds of food and amount of nutrients your pup is consuming. For this reason, raw diets require a lot more work on your part as an owner. Whatever you decide to feed your Labrador, all dogs need a similar ratio of nutrients in their diets. Different dog breeds will need different kinds of nutrient support as they go through the various stages of their life. It can also be easy to overestimate the amount of food your Labrador needs to stay fit and healthy — especially if they are skilled at begging! You need to make sure that your dog is eating the right amount of food for their breed, their size, and activity level. You should also avoid foods that, while delicious for humans, can be harmful or toxic for dogs. Foods like onions, nuts, alcohol, cooked bones, and artificial sweeteners are commonly included in dinners meant for humans, but can cause serious health issues for your Labrador. No matter how old your Lab is, it is important to keep to a consistent feeding schedule. A feeding schedule can help you keep track of any changes in behaviour around food that might signal illness or physiological stress.

They will want to be with you. Have a crate or bed next to your bed for at least the first few weeks while you get them into a Puppy night-time routine. Here is how to get a puppy to sleep through the night. Alone Training Teaching your Pug puppy that they can be totally fine being left alone can be done with stuffed chew toys, time and patience. Remember to do it slowly to avoid any stress! Toilet Training Training Practically every website you read may tell you that Toilet training your Pug puppy can be a challenge. As with alone training, start sooner rather than later. Of course, if they run into any birds, butterflies and hear planes flying over, it will be great for them to get acquainted already. Have fun gathering surfaces with different textures for them to explore, like synthetic grass, tiles, and soil. Use treats! Remember to use lots of treats and praise when training. They love making your tail wag! Repeat their name to them a lot in the first week, so it really starts to click. Recall — How to teach your Pug puppy to come back when called — This is important for safety. Pugs generally stay close, but they can be very friendly and want to run up to people and other dogs for a bit of a cuddle, so a good recall will always help. But they can enjoy fetch games on a smaller scale, get on the floor and interact and play with your Pug puppy to learn what they enjoy. This will help to avoid resource guarding. Husbandry Tasks Pugs love affection but should be handled with care. Be mindful to not treat them like toys. Not going to blame children to think they are toys though — the resemblance is uncanny. To do this we want to teach them that hands will do nice things to them so use plenty of treats when handling your puppy. Week 2 — Training your Pug puppy Week 2 already! Chinese origins[ edit ] Pugs were brought from China to Europe in the sixteenth century. The pet pugs were highly valued by Chinese Emperors, and the royal dogs were kept in luxury and guarded by soldiers. In Tibet , Buddhist monks kept pugs as pets in their monasteries. Pugs were painted by Goya in Spain, and in Italy they rode up front on private carriages, dressed in jackets and pantaloons that matched those of the coachman. They were used by the military to track animals and people, and were also employed as guard dogs. His self-portrait , which is now in London's Tate Gallery , includes his pug, Trump. Every carriage I meet here has a Pug in it. Many responded to the breed's image of anti-functionalism and diminutive size during this period. The modern pug's appearance probably changed after when a new wave of pugs were imported directly from China. These pugs had shorter legs and the modern-style pug nose. The British aristocrat Lady Brassey is credited with making black pugs fashionable after she brought some back from China in .Hogarth's painting from the 18th century depicts the originally longer muzzle, as well as the picture in a edition of Brehms Tierleben. Since there has been a trend in some countries to breed "retro pugs". Following the deaths of pugs and other brachycephalic breeds, several airlines either banned their transport in cargo or enacted seasonal restrictions. Pugs have elongated palates. When excited, they are prone to " reverse sneezing " which causes them to quickly and seemingly laboriously gasp and snort. The veterinary name for this is pharyngeal gag reflex and it is caused by fluid or debris getting caught under the palate and irritating the throat or limiting breathing. Reverse sneezing episodes are usually not harmful, and massaging the dog's throat or covering its nose in order to make it breathe through its mouth can often shorten a sneezing fit. In serious cases, it makes breathing even more difficult and puts added pressure on the larynx. If this happens, one should inquire with their veterinarian whether or not surgery is needed to open the nostrils. If the prolapse happens on a regular basis, the pug might require surgery. This condition is caused when parasitic mites, that are often present in a dog's skin without causing symptoms, are allowed to do damage because their host has a weakened immune system. It is a problem for many young pugs, although not usually a major one, and is easily treatable, but some are especially susceptible and present with a systemic form of the condition. The condition occurs when two parts of a spinal vertebra do not fuse properly while a young pug is still growing, resulting in an irregularly shaped spinal cavity which can put pressure on the spinal cord. Pug photo, ca .Note its small head and long legs. A pug by Carl Reichert. The pug that was predominantly featured in the commercials was Cheeka. A few other adverts also appeared in the following months, inspired by the idea of a dog following a boy. Overview When you have a dog from the age of a young pup, this gives you a wonderful opportunity. It offers you a chance to bond with your dog from the very beginning. This also gives you an advantage because you will be able to train and teach your pup what they need to know before they learn any bad behavior from elsewhere. This section will discuss how to care for a Pug puppy, starting at 8 weeks old and up until he or she is an adult, at the age of 1 year. Transition to a New Home Things will run much smoother if you plan ahead and have most, if not all, of your puppy care items already in your home. Here are the most important items to have: A crate — One with an adjustable size is best to fit the needs of a growing Pug puppy. Crating is a good night time method to use until a pup is housebroken. Gates or a playpen — Choosing an area to gate off or using a canine playpen are good options for when you must leave your Pug puppy home alone or for when you cannot be right at his side. This keeps the pup in a controlled space which helps in regard to bathroom needs and keeping a puppy in one area when he or she has strong chewing urges. Puppy food — This should be obtained before the puppy is brought home. Owners will not always agree with the food that a puppy has been being fed, however any change should be done gradually. Have the food that the Pug has been used to eating on hand, as well as your new choice. Details regarding making this change can be found here: Feeding a Pug. You'll also want them to be sized appropriately and at floor level. Honey — Puppies are prone to the condition of hypoglycemia, which is a rapid and dangerous drop in blood sugar levels. Stress, among other things, can bring this on and while going to a new home is a happy event, it can also be stressful for a little pup that is leaving all that he knew and no longer has the companionship and friendship of his litter-mates. Treatment can be provided at home as plans are being made to bring the puppy to the closest animal hospital or veterinarian. A small dab of honey is rubbed onto the gums and then the puppy should receive professional treatment, sometimes an IV to restore sugar levels back to normal. Leash, collar and harness — Pugs are prone to conditions that involve breathing problems. The body structure of this breed confines breathing passages into a small space and Pugs can have smaller than normal nasal passages and openings stenotic nares. For this reason, using a harness can help a Pug breathe easier when on leash. A short 6 foot leash works best for both potty training and heeling. Read more : Choosing the Best Collar and Harness for a Pug Grooming supplies — The thick coat of a Pug sheds heavily and brushing it well and offering baths on a regular basis can help control shedding. Starting dental care at a young age can help a puppy become used to this grooming element and set up a foundation for a life time of good dental hygiene practices. Keeping the wrinkles, eyes and ears clean are important part of caring for a Pug puppy. Read more: Shedding - Expect your Pug to shed a lot and be prepared by having the right tools. Dental care - Taking care of your Pug's teeth should be high on your priority list. Ears - Expected shapes and proper care. Wrinkles - Keeping the wrinkles dry and clean. Sleeping supplies - Some owners prefer to have their puppy sleep in the bed with them and while this is not always a bad thing, an owner should think about how that will play out as the pup matures into a much larger adult dog. Having a pup get used to his own canine bed from the beginning, set up in a quiet corner of a room, may work out best. Do keep in mind that Pugs crave human companionship and do not like to feel isolated. Setting up the bed in a quiet corner of a well-used room allows a Pug to have a nice area to retreat to for rest and sleep while allowing him to be close to his human family. It will be normal for a little one to sleep anywhere from 16 to 18 hours a day.This included both night time sleep and naps that will be taken throughout the day. Chew Toys — Teething will begin around the age of 3 or 4 months old and can last up until a Pug puppy is 8 months old. Having a good supply of toys on hand for a puppy to chew on is important. Puppy Proofing Before bringing a puppy home and on a regular basis at least weekly owners are encouraged to go over all floors to remove any small objects that could be accidentally swallowed. All items that could be chewed on such as pocket books and shoes should be placed up high until the Pug has matured. Whining It is normal for very young puppies to cry when first brought to a new home, this usually only lasts for a week or so as the pup becomes used to his new family and environment. This can also be a sign of needing to go to the bathroom, so following house training guidelines, be sure to take your Pug puppy outside on a regular basis. Vaccinations for the Pug Puppy An important part of caring for your puppy will be to make sure he or she is up-to-date for all needed vaccinations. An 8-week-old should already have received his shots, as well as a de-worming. Veterinarians will have varying schedules, however this is a general guideline: 5 weeks Parvovirus: For puppies at high risk of exposure to parvo, some veterinarians recommend vaccinating at 5 weeks. Dogs at high risk are those that live in areas where wild life raccoon, skunk, deer, etc. The inclusion of either canine adenovirus-1 or adenovirus-2 in a vaccine will protect against both adenovirus cough and hepatitis; adenovirus-2 is highly preferred. You will want to talk to your veterinarian about this. Reactions to Vaccines Immunizations are intended to stimulate the immune system to then protect a dog against a specific infectious disease. It is very important to have your Pug receive all needed vaccinations. Your Pug may react to immunizations in ways that range from soreness at the site of injection to mild fever to allergic reactions. The allergic reactions can range from mild to severe. Mild- Mild reactions include fever, sluggishness, and loss of appetite. Mild reactions usually resolve without any treatment needed. This is called Urticaria. This happens when there is a reaction of the skin and shows as hives or bumps. It is usually extremely itchy. Urticaria may progress to anaphylaxis, which is considered life-threatening. However, Urticaria is the most common reaction in dogs if a reaction is to happen. Severe - The most severe reaction is anaphylaxis. This is a very fast, sudden, severe allergic response that causes breathing difficulties, collapse and possible death. This is very rare. Urticaria the moderate and most common reaction, if one is to occur happens soon after vaccination, often even before the puppy is brought home. It can happen in the car while you are driving back to your house. Your veterinarian will recommend immediate return to the hospital for treatment. Urticaria is usually treated successfully with injectable corticosteroids like dexamethasone or prednisone. Antihistamines do little to help with acute allergic reactions but may be given by injection to help prevent recurrence of symptoms after steroids wear off. Mild vaccination reactions usually require no treatment. However, if the symptoms persist for more than 24 hours, call your veterinarian. Growth Rate A Pug puppy grows quickly and this can happen gradually or with spurts and stops. Many Pug puppies have a growth spurt near the 3 to 5 month mark. As the pup nears the 1 year mark, growth will slow down. Once a Pug reaches his or her full height, there may still be some growth in the width of the Pug, as the chest widens and fills out. How a Pug ages and his growth is rapid, yet can be staggered during the first year. Getting Your Puppy Comfortable One of the most important parts of bringing a puppy home is allowing him or her to become used to their new surroundings. Allow your pup to roam around and check out his new environment. Be sure to keep a puppy's water in one designed spot so that the pup can know that it can always be found. The drinking and feeding area should be in a quite corner of a room, without much foot traffic or noise, since small puppies can feel vulnerable while eating. The absolute longest that a 2 month old pup can hold their needs is 2 hours. The bladder and bowel muscles are not yet fully developed. As they grow older, this time will increase as they have more control over their body. Usually it will increase by 1 hour for each month that goes by. Therefore, a 3 month old can hold on for about 3 hours, a 4 month old for about 4 hours and so on.With 8 hours being the maximum time for any age. Informational Note: When your 2 month old needs to go outside at least every 2 hours, be sure to not get stuck into that habit.It is important to slowly increase the time intervals. Your 3 month old can wait about 3 hours, but only if you allow the pup to use his bowel and bladder muscles to work and grow stronger. If an owner always brought their Pug outside every 2 hours, the dog would never learn to hold their needs for a longer period of time. Keep reading about the best way to house train a Pug puppy. All puppy vaccinations should be given before you take him or her out to the park, to pet supply stores or any other area in which there may have been or could be other animals. Many new owners already have another dog in the household. As your puppy grows older and is receiving the needed vaccinations, you can slowly begin introducing your new puppy to other dogs and allow normal socialization to begin. The Necessities of Care To have a healthy and happy puppy that will grow into a happy and healthy adult dog, make sure to always provide the essentials: A proper diet. You will need to decide if you want to offer manufacture food, home cooked food or a combination of both. Pugs are very sensitive to their human's emotions. A hug goes a long way! All rights reserved. Privacy Policy We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Life Span Did You Know? The Pug, or Pug Dog, is famous for its flat-faced appearance and large, soulful eyes. They are an ancient dog breed that originated in China over 2, years ago. They were originally developed as a refined pet of Chinese royalty along with the Pekingese and the Shih Tzu. During this time, the Pug was considered a national treasure that outsiders could only access if one was gifted to them. Dutch traders from the s can be credited with bringing the Pug onto the world stage when they brought some back to Europe with them. The Pug made its way to the United States in the s. Now, the Pug is a popular dog breed worldwide. They are a popular companion that provides their owners with plenty of love and laughter from their comedic and playful antics. The Pug is a playful and outgoing dog breed with a charming personality. They tend to be very loving towards children and also get along well with other pets and dogs. They are a companion breed at heart known for their gentle nature and sociable personality. They love to give love and receive it in return. Their sensitive nature makes them intuitive as well and Pugs will often sense the moods of their owners and react accordingly. They crave attention and affection from their owners and are big fans of napping. This dog breed is often described as an ideal house dog and they are moderately adaptable. They will do well in homes of any size, including apartments. The Pug also adapts well to city or country life and are a good fit for singles or families of any size. Although they are highly adaptable to various living situations, they are less adaptable to climates. Pugs are very sensitive to the heat and overexertion, so they are best-suited to moderate climates. They also love to be with their families and will not be happy if left alone for a long time. As with any dog breed, the Pug has some health conditions to be aware of. In particular, corneal ulcers and dry eye are some potential eye problems that can occur. Additionally, Pugs can be susceptible to hip dysplasia, patellar luxation, and encephalitis. Asking the breeder about the genetic history of the parents and to see health clearances can help allay concerns for some of these health issues. Pugs are also big foodies. They love to eat! Their love for food means this dog breed is prone to obesity. As a brachycephalic dog, their large head and short snout often cause respiratory problems, which can limit their exercise at times and contribute to weight gain. This will cause them to quickly gasp and snort, which can sound relatively alarming. These episodes are usually not harmful as your Pug is just clearing their palate and throat. The Pug tends to be easy to train and is a good fit for owners of any experience level. They are eager to please their owners and tend to pick up on commands quickly. They are sensitive souls and their feelings can be hurt easily, so they will not respond well to harsh corrections. This dog breed responds best to consistent training that focuses on positive rewards and will benefit from participation in puppy training classes. Pugs have a smooth, glossy, and short coat. Their fur is fine and soft. Although their coat is generally low-maintenance, it will shed throughout the year. Aside from brushing, Pugs only need occasional baths on an as-needed basis. Because Pugs have ears that drop down, they can be susceptible to moisture, dirt, or debris. Checking their ears regularly and cleaning as needed helps to keep them healthy and comfortable. The same goes for their iconic face wrinkles. Daily brushing is ideal, but if your Pug is not allowing you to do that, a few times a week should be sufficient. Getting your Pug used to these grooming tasks as a puppy will help make it a positive bonding experience and a much easier process throughout their life. This dog breed has a low to moderate energy level. Generally, daily walks and some play sessions are enough exercise for this dog breed. They may have short bursts of energy as they have a very playful nature, but they will tire easily. Some Pugs can handle a little more activity and even compete in some dogs sports like agility, rally, and obedience. Make sure you check with your vet first before jumping into dog sports with your dog. A full-grown Pug will usually stand 10 to 11 inches tall at the shoulders and weigh between 14 and 18 pounds. This dog breed generally lives for years. The Pug was a popular pet of the Buddhist monasteries in Tibet. Featured Pug Article.

Among the many endearing traits of the German Shepherd breed, their alert, upright ears are one of the most distinctive. But these iconic ears don't always start that way. In fact, many new owners find themselves eagerly waiting for the day when their puppy's floppy ears make the transformation to stand tall. When exactly does this happen? The journey of a German Shepherd puppy's ears from droop to attention is a fascinating blend of genetics, anatomy, and development. In this article, we'll delve into the timeline and factors that influence when and how German Shepherd puppies' ears stand up The Journey of a German Shepherd Puppy's Ears If you've ever seen a German Shepherd puppy, you know their ears often start as floppy, drooping down with youthful innocence. As time goes on, most German Shepherd enthusiasts eagerly await the moment when those ears stand up tall and proud. This is a sign that the puppy is growing and maturing. Ear Development Timeline Around the age of 8 to 12 weeks, you might start to notice some changes. One ear might stand up before the other, or they might both make their ascent simultaneously. Sometimes, they might stand up and flop back down, especially during the teething phase. Teething can cause some collie nose-like symptoms with irritation, leading to the temporary droop. By six months, most German Shepherds' ears have fully stood up. However, some might take as long as eight months or more. Genetics plays a huge role here. If the parents had ears that stood up early, there's a good chance the puppy will too. Factors That Can Affect Ear Standing There are multiple factors that can impact when and if a German Shepherd's ears will stand up: Genetics: As mentioned, if a puppy's parents had ears that stood up early, it's likely the puppy will follow suit. Nutrition: A well-balanced diet is crucial. Proper nutrients, especially calcium, play a role in ear development. However, don't rush to supplement calcium without vet advice. Over-supplementing can cause more harm than good. Physical Activity: Puppies, like medium sized dogs or even smaller ones, need ample playtime to strengthen their body, including the muscles around their ears. Ear Trauma: This might sound surprising, but puppies can get concussions too. If they injure their head or ears during play, it might delay the ears from standing up. Ears have their own timeline. Some might consider taping or adding support to help the ears stand. While this can be effective, it's essential to ensure it's done correctly to avoid causing any harm or discomfort to the puppy. Always consult with a vet or experienced breeder. The Role of Teething Believe it or not, teething can temporarily affect a puppy's ears. When puppies teethe, they might borrow behaviors from other breeds, like the basset hound beagle mix, chewing on everything in sight! Once teething is over, the ears typically return to their normal position. Every breed has its unique traits and stories. Myths and Misconceptions In the world of German Shepherds and their ear stories, numerous myths surround the process. Some believe that a dog's ears will never stand if they haven't by a certain age, while others swear by home remedies that promise upright ears overnight. However, the myth that adding more calcium to the diet will expedite the ear-standing process isn't entirely accurate. Over-supplementing can lead to other health issues. Instead of giving your dog extra calcium, focus on a balanced diet. Quality puppy food will typically have all the nutrients your GSD needs. Taping: Helpful or Harmful? Taping is a controversial topic. If you do decide to venture down the taping route, it's essential to research and possibly even get a hands-on demonstration to ensure you're not causing any discomfort or harm. Late Bloomers Every dog is an individual. While many GSDs will have their ears standing tall by six to seven months, some are just late bloomers. There have been instances where a German Shepherd's ears didn't stand up until they were over a year old! Caring for Your GSD's Ears Whether they're standing tall or still on their way up, it's essential to care for your pup's ears. Clean them regularly, and always be on the lookout for signs of infections or mites. Ears are a common place for infections, especially if your dog loves to swim. Also, remember that while floppy ears might be a concern for show dogs, for most pet owners, it's just a cosmetic detail. Your dog will still be the loyal, loving, and protective companion, regardless of ear position. The Emotion Behind Ears Did you know that you can often gauge a dog's mood by their ears? For instance, when a German Shepherd is curious or alert, their ears will be upright and facing forward. If they're feeling submissive or unsure, their ears might pull back a bit. This body language isn't exclusive to GSDs; even breeds with floppy ears, like our earlier mentioned basset hound beagle mix , have ways of showing their emotions through their ears. The Broader Perspective: Beyond Aesthetics While the focus on when German Shepherd ears stand up can seem heavily rooted in aesthetics, there's a broader perspective to consider. It's not just about how they look; it's also about the breed's history, health, and communication. The Historical Significance German Shepherds were originally bred for herding and guarding sheep in Germany. Their erect ears served a practical purpose, allowing them to pick up on distant sounds, be it a stray sheep or a potential predator. Over time, as their roles diversified into police, military, and service work, their alert ears continued to aid them in their duties. Health Implications While floppy ears in a mature German Shepherd might be purely cosmetic for some, it can also be a sign of underlying health issues. Ear infections, injuries, or other health concerns could be the reason behind ears not standing. It's always a good idea to consult with a vet if you suspect an underlying health issue. Communication and Body Language Dog ears, especially those of expressive breeds like German Shepherds, are significant communication tools. They use their ears to convey a range of emotions — from curiosity to uncertainty, alertness to relaxation. For new dog owners, understanding this language can be a bit challenging. For example, if a GSD suddenly swivels its ears back and tucks its tail between its legs, it might feel threatened or scared. On the other hand, ears pricked forward typically indicate keen interest or alertness. Tips for Ensuring Healthy Ear Development To ensure that your German Shepherd puppy has the best chance of developing strong, healthy ears, consider the following: Balanced Diet: Ensure they have the right nutrition, rich in essential vitamins and minerals. Avoid Rough Play: While it's natural for puppies to play, keep an eye on them. Ensure they don't get into overly aggressive tussles that could damage their ears. Regular Vet Check-ups: Routine visits to the vet can catch any potential issues early. Proper Grooming: Clean your GSD's ears regularly, ensuring they're free from parasites and infections. The Emotional Bond: Seeing Beyond the Ears At the heart of the German Shepherd's popularity is the breed's unwavering loyalty, intelligence, and ability to form strong bonds with their families. While their ears often become a topic of curiosity and discussion, the deeper connection forged between a GSD and its owner goes far beyond physical attributes. His right ear never fully stood up due to an early injury. But for Laura, that floppy ear became a symbol of Max's resilience. He had come from a troubled background, and his ear was a testament to his journey. To her, it made him all the more endearing. Bella's ears stood up early, and they were as expressive as they come. However, during one particular race, Bella got distracted by a slice of pepperoni on the side. Daniel realized that even the most disciplined dogs have their silly moments, and it became a cherished memory. The Lessons Dogs Teach Us German Shepherds, like all dogs, have an uncanny ability to teach humans invaluable lessons. Their ears, whether standing or floppy, tell stories of patience, growth, and individuality. They remind us to appreciate the uniqueness in every creature and to understand that beauty isn't standardized. For families with kids, GSDs often become the perfect example of embracing individual differences. Children learn that it's okay to stand out, that everyone has their own timeline for growth, and that appearance doesn't define worth. Beyond the German Shepherd While German Shepherds and their ears might be our focal point, every dog breed carries its tales. The elongated face of the Collie nose tells stories of herding in the Scottish Highlands. The stout and robust build of medium sized dogs speaks of their adaptability to diverse roles, from guarding to companionship. Even crossbreeds, like the basset hound beagle mix, come with their delightful blend of characteristics. These mixes often remind us of the unpredictability of life and the joy of surprises. The Modern Canine Accessory: Fi Dog Collars As we explore the wonders of our German Shepherds and the many intricacies of their growth and behavior, there's one modern accessory that is making waves in the canine world, particularly for breeds as active and intelligent as the GSD: the Fi dog collar. The Role of Fi in Monitoring Growth As discussed, the journey of a German Shepherd puppy's ears is just one of the many milestones in their growth. But how do we track other vital aspects of their development? Enter Fi dog collars. The Tech-savvy Solution for Monitoring Health For breeds like the German Shepherd, maintaining optimal health requires consistent monitoring. The Fi dog collar , with its cutting-edge tracking technology, allows owners to monitor their pet's activity levels, ensuring they're getting the right amount of exercise. Whether your GSD's ears are standing tall or still on their way up, knowing they are physically active and healthy is paramount. Beyond Physical Growth While we often talk about the physical growth and development of our GSDs, their emotional well-being is equally crucial. Remember Laura and her bond with Max? Or Daniel and his playful Bella? Dogs, much like humans, thrive on routine, and sudden changes in activity or behavior can be indicative of underlying issues. Maybe your dog has a penchant for chasing after squirrels, or perhaps they like to wander and explore. This inherent curiosity, while endearing, can sometimes lead to anxiety for owners. Fi dog collars come equipped with GPS location tracking, providing peace of mind. Even if your basset hound beagle mix decides to follow a scent trail or your GSD gets distracted by a slice of pepperoni, with Fi, you always know where they are. Whether you have a German Shepherd with a Collie nose or any of the delightful Italian dog breeds, the ability to monitor and track your dog's activity and location is invaluable. Conclusion: In conclusion, the progression of a German Shepherd puppy's ears from their initial floppy state to their iconic upright position is a testament to the breed's unique developmental journey. While there is a general timeline to expect, individual differences due to genetics, health, and environmental factors can influence the exact moment those ears rise. For German Shepherd owners, it's a mix of patience, care, and understanding that will see them through this captivating phase. Regardless of when it happens, the day those ears stand tall is a memorable milestone in the life of every German Shepherd puppy and their owner. The link has been copied! It commonly occurs anywhere from eight weeks to six months. So, any German Shepherd parent would know that these adorable dogs have floppy ears when they are just puppies. However, stronger cartilage will be developed as you give them the proper nutrients. It might mostly occur as a response to your call or noise in the surrounding area. It can be a result of poor nutrition or slow development. Your German Shepherd needs abundant vitamin D, calcium, and protein. Lacking these nutrients in their diet will result in weak cartilage. Switch to better food or visit the vet for a checkup. They are still incredibly cute, anyway! If you want to ensure that you have a pooch with perky ears, make sure to look for parents with standing ears. Do all German Shepherd ears stand up? Even if you have already, you can know whether your pooch will have floppy or perky ears when it grows. It can compromise their health and adversely affect their growth, including strengthening the cartilage. Regular checkups and fecal exams can help prevent or abate that problem. Your vet can give your dog deworming medicines to see that your growing furry friend is free from parasites. Any traumatic injury to the ears can cause permanent damage and prevent the ears from growing strong enough to stand. It can be caused by a child pulling its ears and rough play among its littermates. Regularly monitor your pup and keep anyone from playing with its ears when they are in its developmental stage. But there are things you can do to help it get strong and healthy ears. These steps will also protect the ears from possible damage. Get high-quality food for your puppy to boost their development. Cheap foods usually have more fillers that contain negligible nutrients. Keep the puppy away and safe from other puppies that play bite with their ears. Educate your children and everyone else at home on how to handle the puppy carefully and gently. Giving your puppy chew toys will give their head, jaw, and surrounding muscles some exercise. It can lead to better ear development. Make sure to buy durable ones, as German Shepherd pups are stronger than you think! Clean their ears gently if you notice dirt. Keep your dog happy! A happy dog is a healthy dog. It will have fewer or no health problems if you keep the dog fit. Using the tape too early or during its growing stage can harm its natural development. However, the 7th to 8th month might be a little too late. But that may not be true for all, as some German Shepherds are just built differently. Their looks come second when you experience how good of a companion they can make. But the young ones carry cute floppy ears that eventually stand up. Some take longer. Remember that floppy ears do not affect their health negatively. David W. I admire German Shepherds. They are magnificent dogs! I have been dealing with dogs, namely German Shepherds, throughout my life. I have been working part-time as a dog trainer and instructor for about 5 years, dealing mainly with German Shepherds. So I know a bit about these animals. Therefore, I decided to share my knowledge and experience about this fantastic breed. If you need help with advice and care tips or want to know more about German Shepherd dogs, welcome to this blog. Aug 18, Share German Shepherds have a distinctive look that includes alert, erect ears. For most pups, the ear cartilage begins to harden around week 20, or when the pup is finished teething. At that point, it can take up to 20 weeks for the ears to stand up fully. This can vary by the individual, however. Like human ears, dog ears are made of cartilage. As they grow and gain nutrition, German Shepherds develop stronger and stronger cartilage to support those ears. Typically, puppies at weeks will have floppy ears that occasionally stand up but quickly fall back down. Around week 20, or 5 months, your pup is done teething and its ears will begin to harden and stand. Your vet may have some suggestions to help the process along. If your pup reaches 8 months and still has floppy ears, the chance of them standing on their own is slim. Some breeders try to breed for larger ears, leading to ears that are too heavy to stand up. If strong, alert ears are important to you, be sure to look for a pup with parents that have erect ears. If the ears sustain trauma during that time, it can cause permanent damage to the cartilage. If your puppy gets parasites, it can impact healthy development, which includes the hardening of its ear cartilage. Be sure to take your puppy to the vet regularly and have routine fecal exams to check for worms and other parasites. Your vet can recommend an appropriate deworming protocol for your growing puppy and treat parasites if they occur. However, if you want your puppy to have strong, alert ears, you can help the process along in a number of ways. In an effort to move ear development along, some owners will add supplements like calcium. Chew toys are also good for teething and keeping your puppy occupied. German Shepherds are strong, even as pups, so be sure to choose solid, durable chew toys that are safe and appropriate for your puppy. It should only be used as a last resort, however. If you use tape too early, it can hinder natural development. That said, if you wait until the seventh or eighth month, it may be too late to help. Glue the ends of the popsicle stick to the tape on both ears, horizontally. Once a week, remove the popsicle stick, foam, and tape. If the ears stand on their own, leave them. Related Reads:. Especially during the first six months, be extra careful not to aggressively clean their ears. They will be more prone to lesions in the ear cartilage at this time. Yet it would be understandable if you are reading this and feel dismay or even horror. How can that possibly be a good thing? But understand we are not talking about doing anything harmful or invasive. The techniques you are about to read about will not harm or hurt your German Shepherd puppy at all. They will simply support the ears to grow into the upright position without having to work so hard to get there — or stay there. You want to give your pup enough time to try to do this naturally. But you also want to intervene before the cartilage in the ears starts to harden usually around seven to eight months old , leaving the ear flaps in the wrong position. You will need the following supplies: Some type of surgical tape NOT duct tape or any super-adhesive tape. Foam roller inserts or foam pipe insulation cut to size. Two plain popsicle sticks or unsharpened pencils. Wrap the surgical tape around the outside of the ear to hold the insert in place. Be prepared for your puppy to find a way to paw off this strange contraption several times before they finally get used to it and forget about it. You want to leave this in place for a week and then remove it to check the ear position. You may notice the ears start to stand a little straighter week by week. But if you see them flop over again, you need to re-tape them until they are strong enough to stand up on their own. Ear gluing Another option you can try is puppy ear gluing. This is actually not nearly as awful as it sounds and is far easier to do than the ear taping method. Another perk of puppy ear gluing over taping is that you are not going to cut off any air circulation to the inner ear canal. The key is to pick some kind of fabric glue do NOT use super glue or super-bonding glue that may not come off. What you need to do for this method is to add a dab of glue to the outside of the inner ear flap about two-thirds of the way down from the ear tip point. Then press the two ear flaps together for 30 seconds to allow the glue to set. Wherever possible, if you have multiple dogs in your household, try to keep your German Shepherd puppy from playing rough games with the other dogs. Rowdy playtime can easily cause the ears to separate. The glue will wear off on its own after a while and you can observe if the ears are able to remain upright and erect when this occurs. If you need to, keep reapplying the glue until the ears are strong and stable to remain in the correct position without glue. It may take a few weeks or longer for this to occur. Do not worry if the ears are not in a perfect position. As long as they stay upright, the inner muscles and tissues will naturally self-correct over time. Surgery Certain situations may even require surgical implants, like when ear cartilage damage occurs. Massage the Ears Massaging the ears helps by increasing blood flow to the ears, helping your form strong ear: Muscles Cartilage Chew Toys Chew toys are not only great for keeping your pup occupied, but they can also be great sources of collagen. This will help build strong ear cartilage capable of holding the ears in the upright position. Chew toys also work the ear muscles. This will strengthen the surrounding tissues. This is especially true for dogs prone to health issues, like German Shepherds. Foods rich in nutrients like calcium and glucosamine will help your dog form strong and healthy ears. These nutrients are vital for developing sturdy ear cartilage. Stimulation Dogs communicate a lot with their ears. Just think of German Shepherds that are alert and focused on something, like an odd noise they heard outside. Chances are, their ears will be standing erectly. Stimulation like this encourages the use of the ear muscles. There are two areas where you will definitely want to pay closer attention. Bath time and during playtime with other dogs. Keeping water out of the ears will reduce infections and head shaking. Using a headband is an easy way to do this, and can also prevent injuries when playing with other dogs. What causes German Shepherds to have floppy ears? The most common ones include breeding issues, teething, cartilage development issues, trauma, and poor nutrition or hygiene. Breeding Pointy German Shepherd ears are among the top distinct features of the breed. Unfortunately, this can sometimes lead to improper breeding practices. Teething Floppy ears are a common occurrence when the dog is teething. Developing cartilage German Shepherd puppies are born with floppy ears. As their bodies develop, their ear cartilage and muscles also develop up to the point that they are able to support the weight of the ears, keeping them upright. German Shepherd ears typically start to perk up when the dog is about 6 to 10 weeks old. They can also sometimes flop back down while the dog is teething only to stand up again. Trauma Trauma is a common reason for floppy ears in German Shepherds. Physical trauma caused by an accident or injury to the ears can cause one or both of them to drop. If you suspect trauma, visit your vet to address any wounds and prevent infection. However, their ears need to be kept clean in order to prevent infections that could cause their ears to drop. Dogs not getting enough calcium and vitamin D during puppyhood may have trouble keeping their ears up as their skeletal support structure is not developed properly. They should be well-aligned, symmetrical namely just as wide as they are tall , and carried upright. However, not all dogs will have perfectly standard ears and some may have ears that are too large, too small, too high, too low, or just ears that point in the wrong direction. In fact, there are at least 12 different German Shepherd ear shapes , each with their own distinct characteristics. German Shepherd ears will usually stand up at around 4 months of age. But this can happen as early as the 1-month mark, or as late as the 6-month mark when teething finishes. But more than anything, they tell you how the dog is feeling at any given time. The ears really are the window to the soul for not just GSDs, but all dogs. During this time, more calcium is being directed to the growing teeth, and away from the ear cartilage. When teething is over, and more calcium can be directed back to the ears, they will most likely stand back up again. This is especially true if your pup has sustained an ear injury in the past, and broke the ear cartilage as a result. German Shepherd puppies are especially prone to this during the first 6 to 8 months, since their ears are still developing. These injuries can occur during rowdy play with other dogs and people, or from excessive scratching. This will help their ears develop faster and stronger, and will help prevent ear injuries in the future. But in most cases, if you act fast enough, even the floppiest German Shepherd ears are capable of being corrected. Ear development can vary from puppy to puppy. If they stand up when the puppy is scared or excited or when they bark, you can expect to see fully erect years by the time they are six months old. Will my German Shepherd mix ears stand up? Depending on the genes they inherited, your German Shepherd mix may have erect ears or not. You can support their ear development by giving them chew toys, massaging the base of their ears, and giving them calcium and vitamin D supplements. The ear flap is the outermost ear and is often called the pinna plural is pinnae. A dog has two pinna — one for each ear. Each pinna can work independently of the other, which is part of what gives dogs such keen hearing. This is the same reason all German Shepherd puppies are born with their ears down and floppy. It takes time for the cartilage to form, thicken and then harden into the characteristic erect ear position of the German Shepherd. The ears might pop up as early as four weeks old only to flop back down around four months old. Not only is the cartilage in the outer ears still forming and hardening, but the many muscles, tendons, ligaments, and tissues that help the ears move and function are still getting coordinated as well. This is why it is wise not to get concerned about ear position or stability until after your German Shepherd puppy has finished teething. There is just too much growing going on to expect your little puppy to look like a full-grown adult dog yet. This video gives you some unique tips to help their ears get stronger and stand up without human assistance like some of the tips you read about in this article. I get a lot of emails about taping German Shepherd puppy ears. The majority of these emails come from people who are jumping the gun and worrying too much. By that, I mean their pups are 3 or 4 months old and they are starting to panic because their puppy's ears are not standing. I tell these people that they need patience, they need to wait until their pup has finished teething. I caution these people not to jump the gun and tape the dog's ears too early or in the wrong way. I know people who have screwed their dog's ears up for life by doing this. I have had puppy customers who go ballistic on me and panic. So I issue a word of caution here. With that said, the other side of the spectrum of taping ears is something that many people do not take seriously until it's too late. When ears are taped at 7 and 8 months, there is very little chance of it working. This is an unfortunate fact of life. German Shepherd puppy ears can come up between 8 weeks and 6 months. If they are not up when the dog is through teething this varies from dog to dog but in general between 16 weeks and 20 weeks of age , I tell my puppy customers to get very interested in their ears. While it's not time to panic, it is time to sit up and take notice. The first thing to do is make sure that your puppy is in good health. This means no intestinal parasites. Take a stool sample to your vet to have it analyzed. It's also important to make sure the pup is getting good quality food. We feed and recommend a raw diet but if you do feed a commercial diet, I strongly recommend researching all the options available and feeding the highest-quality food you can afford. View our list of all-natural kibble alternatives. In fact, a lot of times, a pup will have both ears up and all of a sudden, they will come back down when the pup starts to teeth. Many owners panic when this happens. But not to worry, I have never seen a pup whose ears did not go back up when this happens. If a pup does not have his ears up by 5 months, I strongly recommend that you get involved with taping your dog's ears. Use the thin white surgical tape the kind that's paper-thin and tears easily. The 3M Micropore tape, 2" wide, works well. I like to use women's hair rollers. Take the plastic out of them and just use the foam. Wrap the ear around the foam and tape them into a tight roll. In a vertical position. Take a popsicle stick and attach it to the top part of both ears. In a horizontal position. The pup is going to tear the tape or stick off the ears several times. The key is to continue to re-tape the ears. Sooner or later, the pup will forget the tape and ignore it. About once a week, take the tape off and see if the ears will stand on their own. Continue to re-tape until the ears stand. If the ears are not up by 7 or 8 months, they are not going to come up. The ears should look like this once taped. The same dog with ears now up. I have seen ears that did not stand, which in my opinion would have stood had they been taped. So this process is not something to take lightly. I also need to say that many ears will be a little weak right after taping but with time, they will strengthen. So when an ear does not stand perfectly after taping don't panic. Just have patience and see what happens. You will really not have an idea exactly what you have until the pup is 12 months old. When ears do not stand, there are ear implants that can be surgically added. I have no experience with this and do not know anything about them. If you are unlucky enough to have a dog whose ears will not stand, I would point you toward a vet that has some experience in this area. I don't think it's something that normal small animal vets know how to do well. In my opinion, too young to tape. The material to use to tape German Shepherd Ears The pup with its ears taped I prefer taping German Shepherd Dogs ears after the dog has finished teething. This usually means the dog is older than 4 - 6 months. Maybe waiting another month would have been a better idea for this puppy.