free german shepherd puppies jacksonville fl

Snow Capped Shepherd Rescueis a Denver, Colorado based, volunteer-run non-profit c 3 organization. We do not have a shelter, instead all of our rescued dogs are housed with caring foster families…a temporary stop on their way to happily-ever-after. The problem. The reason so many dogs and cats have to be rescued in the first place is that there are not enough homes. Too many dogs and cats are sadly born to die. Do your part, spay and neuter your pets and encourage others to do the same. The solution. We rescue White German Shepherds of all sizes, ages and personalities. These dogs come to us from former owners, shelters or as strays. Sadly, shelters and humane societies are over-run with homeless pets and tragically must euthanize thousands of adoptable pets every month to make room for more. Why would you need to buy a pet when so many are in need? Foster homes provide care and love for these wonderful dogs while we work to find them permanent homes. Plus, by living in a true home setting, our adoptable animals become better prepared for their new adopted families. Matching responsible guardians with our adoptable dogs takes place through our adoption process. We carefully interview potential adopters to ensure that the right match is made. We ask questions about lifestyle, desired activity level, work situation and gather other pertinent information from potential adopters. Too often pets end up unwanted because they were never a good match for their previous home in the first place. At Snow Capped Shepherd Rescue, we look for people who intend to provide a home for a lifetime and understand what that requires. Visit their website for more information on how your kids can have fun at camp too! Found on the street, homeless, hungry, and maybe sick. Or worse dropped off by his family for being old or unwanted. Shivering in a cold strange place that smells of bleach and other dogs that overwhelm him. The endless barking day and night. Wondering what happened -- what did he do wrong to be put in such a place? What will happen? How many days until he feels the needle that takes him to sleep forever? Or, will he be one of the very few to be found by someone looking for a new family member or maybe a rescue that understands the need to help him. Do they know his breed and are they good at finding just the right home? Will he be lucky enough to be placed into a forever home where he will find that he has a new family to be a member of? In reality, once lost or turned away from their family and left with a broken heart, dogs go into a self-protective shield. Once they realize they don't need to be afraid anymore, their true personality blossoms like a beautiful rose. A truly awesome experience to witness.All dogs are hands-on evaluated. We are a foster-based rescue and all dogs live in private homes prior to adoption. We DO adopt outside of the State of Arizona, but you must be willing to travel to Arizona to meet a dog and us. Home visits are required and may be accomplished by a local rescue or a video call with one of our staff members. The adopters are responsible for coming to Phoenix, meeting the dog and then taking him or her home with them. These are all purebred German Shepherd Dogs.Because they are! There is a tremendous degree of variation within this breed, which is why we go to such lengths to ensure that the dog in which you are interested is, indeed, the right dog for you, your household and your current lifestyle. GSDs vary in structure, type and temperament, contingent upon the lines from which they were bred, coupled with their level of training and socialization. While you may prefer a certain "look," take care to make temperament, drive levels and the dog's history, the most important factors in choosing the right companion.First and foremost, we are all about the DOG. We do not place a dog into a home just because we need to make space for a new rescue. We put the dog's best interest at heart at all times and will not place a dog into a home that is not suitable. They are set, taking into account the dog's age, training level, medical condition s if any and other factors. Some dogs require that hundreds of dollars and many weeks, even months, be spent before they are ready for adoption; others do not. Adoption fees are used, not only to rescue and place the dog you are personally adopting, but to aid in the future rescue and rehabilitation of other deserving dogs. Adoption fees are necessary; without fees our rescue efforts would quickly come to an end. Office expenses add up as well. Rescue is an expensive undertaking, both financially and emotionally, and is motivated solely by our passion for German Shepherd Dogs. We are volunteers. We volunteer our time countless hours every day , and we are by no means wealthy. We do not make a profit and seldom break even. Adoption fees come in and go right back out to the next rescued dog. Once a questionnaire is submitted, you will be contacted usually within 24 hours to set up an introduction with the dog s that you are interested in if they are a suitable match for you and your family. All owners are required to sign an Owner Surrender form prior to placement. Snow Capped Shepherd Rescue is a Denver, Colorado based c 3 non profit organization run solely through the dedication of its volunteers. We rescue White German Shepherds, German Shepherd mixes, and other dogs that have been abandoned, neglected or have otherwise become disposable. We were founded to become their gateway to Forever Families that understand adoption is for a lifetime. Matching responsible pet guardians with Snow Capped Shepherd Rescue's dogs is our primary goal. We carefully interview potential adopters because we want to make sure the right match is made. We work hard to fit your adoption criteria with the dogs we have up for adoption. We want the adoption to be successful for both you and the dog. Too often pets end up in shelters because they were never a good match for their homes in the first place. At Snow Capped Shepherd Rescue, we look for people who intend to provide a home for the life of the pet and understand what that requires. Once we receive your application, a volunteer will contact you. Since we do not have a shelter, we rely on foster families to provide caring and loving homes for our dogs while they wait for their forever families. Foster families provide a temporary stop on a dog's way to happily-ever-after. With every foster family we add to our program, we can rescue another dog waiting at a shelter. A foster family is responsible for the daily care and support for the dog they welcome into their home and hearts. A foster family helps a dog in need become more adoptable by teaching them house manners and by providing a consistent source of love - something they might not have known before. Being a foster parent is not an easy task and is not for everyone. It is however, the hardest job you'll ever love. Foster homes go through the same interview and review process as potential adopters. Fostering can be anywhere from a few days to a few months. Please contact us if you are interested in finding out more about one of our Adorable Adoptables. We look forward to speaking to you! Snow Capped Shepherd Rescue.

This four-leg animal is responsible and has traits like Bernese—loyalty. The Best Bernedoodle breeders in New Jersey offer a fluffy ball for all of you who love doggos but are allergic. Additionally, this canine is low to non-shedding. Bernedoodle puppies in New Jersey are like best friends—will cuddle you, hike with you, lay by your side. In simpler words, this cutie is always there to accompany you. It is interesting to notice that no two doodles will be identical. The genes from the parent breed meld in unique ways and, it is mesmerizing to watch each one being produced. However, the three categories in sizes are presented below. Standard Bernedoodle—The standard size of these pooches usually ranges from 23 to 29 inches at shoulder height. The weight of these canines usually lies between 50 t0 90 pounds. Moreover, the size can vary based on sex as well. A healthy doodle lives for 15 to 19 years approximately. Mini Doodles— As per their name, these doodles are mini- little shorter than a standard dog. The height of these fluffy balls is between 18 to 22 inches with a weight of 25 to 29 pounds. These small and tiny four-leg animal lives of r 15 to 17 years approximately. Micromini or toy— These poochies are super adorable and comparatively small. The height of the canine reaches 12 to 17 inches. Moreover, they weigh almost 10 to 12 pounds. These cuties are known to have the lengthiest lifetime of 17 to 18 years. Therefore, you much consider the steps given below to choose the right breeder. You must take feedback from your friends and family if they got the doggo from the 5 Best Bernedoodle breeders in New Jersey. You should search on the websites to get accurate information on these canines. Do visit a couple of breeders before making your final selection. Clear all your queries and doubts it would be best for a person having this breed. Feel good if you are being interviewed by the breeder this shows they care about the new home for their beloved doodle. Since this doodle is a hybrid breed, you can notice a significant difference in the size, temperament, and colors of this pup. Therefore, you should choose this doggo carefully—according to the temperament that suits your family well. These cuties love to play outdoors with your kids and enjoy cuddling as well. They are a perfect family pooch if trained well. Therefore, it is highly necessary to get your canine from a good breeder. To get a full insight on the best breeder in New Jersey, please go ahead. They have a rigorous screening process for breeders to ensure that all puppies are bred in responsible and ethical conditions. PuppySpot also offers a health guarantee for all puppies and provides ongoing support to buyers to ensure that the puppies are properly taken care of. Overall, purchasing a Bernedoodle puppy in New Jersey from PuppySpot can provide peace of mind and a positive experience for buyers. Although they are new, they have made a good standing in the market as they follow best practices. These pooches are raised well—not in cages but like family members in the home. Getting enough love, and attention, and being raised with the rest of the pets makes this doggo adapt to the home environment effortlessly. You can find all sizes of doodles with this breeder. All the details on these doodles and breeder are available on the website—pictures, litter dates, and all the minor details. It gives you an idea of the size and color of a possible Bernedoodle doggo. You can find one of the highest qualities of mini and micro mini Bernedoodles with these breeders. Mini and Micro Mini Bernedoodles are the perfect example of lovable companions, doggo with brains, and are very loyal. These Bernedoodle puppies in New Jersey love to hug everyone and are great with children and especially children with disabilities. You would be amazed to know, these poochies are great at service and hence make perfect company for army people. These breeders provide you with the information of both parents so that you know what exactly you are taking home. Moreover, you can avail the pure breed of these doggos by knowing both parents from Best Bernedoodle breeders in New Jersey. Bella Pups Quality and high maintenance, you can expect both from Bella Pups. These breeders bred these Bernedoodle puppies in New Jersey for great companionship. These doggos are not just smart but beautiful, enjoy cuddling, playing with their families, and love snow. This breeder runs the faculty chiefly, focusing on the Bernedoodle puppies. They spend a lot of time breeding their canines to give you healthy offspring with an outstanding temperaments. This breeder is highly professional and satisfies you with minor detail before you take their one of the doodles home. Additionally, you can visit their website for a better understanding of what exactly you would be getting. So, if you are looking for the friendliest mini-puppy, this breeder is among the 5 Best Bernedoodle breeders in New Jersey. An insider of the Doodle Breeder. Unfortunately, since Bernedoodles have risen in popularity over the last decade, you must be cautious of puppy mills and backyard breeders. Here are three important points you should consider when choosing a Bernedoodle breeder in New Jersey: 1. Do your Research: There are several Bernedoodle breeders in New Jersey, and unfortunately, not all of them are reputable. You must know what you are looking for and must not be coerced into buying a dog that is not suitable for you. Contact Bernedoodle breeders: We suggest you can ask a lot of questions of each Bernedoodle breeder you touch. You should be able to see their place and either see pictures of the dogs or meet their owners. If the puppies are less than 8 weeks old, you should be able to meet the mother of the litter. Reputable breeders will gladly answer any questions you have and should have questions for you in return! Check medical history: Whenever you buy a Bernedoodle puppy in New Jersey you should check the medical history of puppies and both the parents. Most respectable Bernedoodle breeders in New Jersey will provide you a health guarantee. They will normally provide you with a one or two-year health warranty against all inherited disorders. Furthermore, some of the trustworthy breeders will give you lifetime support if you have any concerns. As we know that, the Bernedoodle is a mixed breed, you will find a major difference in its size, nature, and colours. As a result, you should pick this dog very carefully. If you know any great Bernedoodle breeder who lives in New Jersey, please let us know in the comments below. So we can add it to our list. What is the Breeder Name? Where are they located in New Jersey? Conclusion for Bernedoodle Breeders in New Jersey I hope you liked this post, and now you know all the reputable Bernedoodle breeders who live in New Jersey. So share this post with your friends family who lives in New Jersey and finding the Bernedoodle breeder. So this post is really helpful for those who want to find a Bernedoodle breeders in New Jersey. Share this post on all social media platforms and support Dog Breeds Expert for more articles. Other Bernedoodle Breeders. View Our Available Bernedoodle Puppies! Standard Bernedoodles are bigger than Mini Bernedoodles reaching weights of pounds. They average inches in height at the shoulders when fully grown. Our Standard Bernedoodle puppies are all 1st generation-F1 variety puppies. They have purebred Bernese Mountain dogs for moms and the dads are Standard poodles. Their Standard Bernedoodles life expectancy is years old. Blue Diamond Bernedoodles have a loving, easy-going, and calm temperament. Bernedoodles are very loyal and social and love to spend time with their parents. Standard Bernedoodles need regular grooming because of their curly and thick coats. Shedding is very minimal after their first haircut and grooming. This breed is known to be a hypoallergenic choice. Here at Blue Diamond Family Kennels, we specialize in breeding Standard Bernedoodles along with a few other great breeds. We have teamed up with a few other reputable Bernedoodle breeders that breed and raise Bernedoodle pups that meet our very strict criteria and genetic testing. On our Standard Bernedoodle puppies page you will see all of our available puppies for sale. View Our Available Puppies! You should not confuse Mini Bernedoodles with Standard Bernedoodles. Our adorable Mini Bernedoodle are of the F1 variety. All the doodle moms are purebred Genetic Tested Bernese Mountain dog females. Our mini Bernedoodle pups usually end up weighing pounds and around inches tall when full grown. Most Mini bernedoodles live to be around years old. Mini Bernedoodles have become really popular because they shed very little after they shed their puppy coat, they are very hypoallergenic. We have specialized in breeding Mini Bernedoodles as well as a few other breeds for many years. They are a big part of our family and farm. We have also partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini bernedoodle pups that meet our very strict criteria and genetic testing. We usually have a good selection of very high quality doodle puppies. So if you live near Hammonton New Jersey and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Bernedoodle puppy then checkout our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are a few of our Mini Bernedoodle Pups!

Exercises Grooming From ancient Germany precisely around the 19th century had the now extinct mastiff breed Bullenbeisser and bulldogs brought in from England. At the time of their arrival, they served as hunting dogs for bears, deer, and other ferocious beasts, it would capture the prey with the help of its awesome teeth and detain it until the hunter arrives. And in the first boxer standard club was launched with a comprehensive document that is still in use today. Shortly after, the breed made its way into other European countries and got into the U. S in the late 19th century with the American Kennel Club taking registration of its first boxer around .During the first world war, boxers played the role of a military dog as a pack-carrier, a guard dog, and an attack dog, later they were taken home by the soldiers and got introduced into the domestic world as a show dog, best companion, and a reliable guard. One with so much life, energetic, curious, attentive, active, smart, sociable and incredible fun with children is the boxer, they are also known to be very patient and highly protective of their family members making them the love and desire of many homes. As active dogs, they need a lot of exercise to keep them mentally fit, apparently having a mind of its own, you will find your boxer entertain itself by digging the ground often, chewing, and licking the mouth to beat boredom. They are also very stubborn in character which makes them a terrible choice for first-timers with dogs, they are generally a bit difficult with adult dogs including dogs of a similar breed but friendly with puppies. They usually do not bark unless there is a genuine reason behind it but they love to growl. If you have occupied home with people around all the time or you want a canine buddy the whole time, then a boxer is just the perfect breed to get. Being a highly active dog, they dread loneliness and they can cope finely in both a house and an apartment as long as you provide it with enough room and spaces for exercises and activities. What you must have is a large yard if you are living in a house for it to dig the ground and run around as it likes. And more so, if you are given to being away from home most of the time, getting a boxer may not be the best for you and the dog, because they usually get aggressive when left alone. Boxers are known as loud snorers and they drool greatly too. Boxers are playful and very energetic dogs as such regular exercises are part of a good canine relationship, especially a breed of this sort. Your boxer should be allowed to play in a fenced area and on-leashed since it is likely to jump and leap around in excitement. This puts a boxer as a bad choice for a frail owner as they may find it a tad impossible and daunting keeping up with its excessive activity demands. Being a breed with a short and thin coat its grooming demands are quite easy and little, all it needs is a light brushing of the hair twice every week to maintain its good and gleeful looks. Bathing should be a once in a while since boxers are generally clean dogs and its nails, be trimmed once every month or as often as they grow worn on surfaces, its teeth should also be brushed daily to avoid tartar formation and other dental crises. Our Boxer puppies for sale come from either USDA licensed commercial breeders or hobby breeders with no more than 5 breeding mothers. We only purchase puppies from the very best sources, and we stand behind every puppy we sell. Frequently Asked Questions Are Boxers good family pets? Yes, boxers are particularly fond of their family members especially when goodly trained. Are Boxers trainable? Though the boxers can be a little headstrong, they are very intelligent and with a proper training environment, they respond well. Are Boxers friendly with kids? They are very fond of children and they love playing games with them. Are Boxers friendly with other animals? Boxers are naturally patient with puppies, pooches and small animals but a bit unaccommodating of adult dogs and other animals. Are Boxers good apartment dogs? They can live anywhere you make as a home all you need is to provide it with enough space for exercise. How is Boxers shedding? Given the shortness of their coat, they shed minimally and occasionally, you can also regulate the shedding by frequent brushing of their coat. Are Boxers good for first-time owners? Not quite, as their exercise needs are way too high for their inexperienced hands. Are Boxers loud barkers? But growling is a thing they do most. Are Boxers tolerable to heat and cold? All they need is moderate exposure to heat and cold because of their thin fur body. How long can Boxers live? The average life-span of boxers is 10 years Are you interested in purchasing a Boxer? Fill out the below form and we'll get back to you as soon as possible. Little boy reverse brindle with a black mask and white stripe on nose. Comet Found his forever home Home: Gallery Just a few of the wonderful families who love our puppies. We had a boxer that we bought from a breeder in our area but they were no longer breeding. We wanted to make sure that our puppy would be healthy and not inbred. There were many boxers available in our area, but they were not from recommended breeders. We were one of the first people to call about the puppies and they were only a couple days old. Shannon was a big help in picking out our little girl, Kaiyah. We had to decide mainly from pictures since we live 3 hours away. We went to see her and put our deposit down a week later. Shannon was able to answer any questions we had and the puppies were very well cared for. The Mother and Father were both there for us to meet and were well mannered. When we got her home and took her to the vet, he was very pleased. He raves about her every time she is there and tells us what a beautiful boxer she is. He wanted to know where we got her and told us that the breeders did a very good job. The Duncan family I have been a Boxer lover for 24 years. Needless to say, it took awhile to think about getting another addition to our family. My other boxer girl was so lonely we decided to start looking for a brother for her. My husband came across Shannon's name in the paper, so we checked out her website. I immediately fell in love with a male, by the time I called he was already picked by another gentleman. So with careful thought we took the ride to see the other male, to our delight we got to meet Shannon, Jack and Tesla and Reyes, what beautiful dogs, when we met our male it was destiny, he high fived my husband, we were sold. Another reason I knew we were taking Jaxson is Shannon was very knowledgeable about this wonderful breed, and she had both parents and puppies on organic food, that was very important to me, as knowing the breed the way I do, I know they thrive on the better foods. So time will tell. Thank you Shannon for keeping this wonderful breed alive, we will keep in touch forever. I wanted a puppy that came from a loving home where the parents were family pets. I found lots of puppies that appealed to me in looks, but for 1 reason or another, did not feel comfortable with the breeder. When we arrived for our visit, we met the parents of the puppies; both were beautiful, friendly, well cared for, family dogs. She is absolutely the best dog! From the moment we left with her, she never cried or whined at being separated from her Mom or littermates. I think she knew she was with her family! She loves nothing more than being where we are. Shelby is a happy, healthy, funny, beautiful, energetic girl who brings joy to our lives every day. Orchard Park is 3 hours away, but was well worth the trip! I would definitely contact Shannon again when we are ready for another boxer baby! In I purchased my first boxer Lady. After coming out of the Navy. I decided to have my first dog since leaving home. She was my first boxer a pet, not knowing boxers well. My veterinarian encourage me to go out to the dog park as he felt she was a good representation of the breed. To my surprise I found out that Miss Lady was the granddaughter of Ch. Candy Kisses Play Boy. As my adventure began with Lady it was determined that she was my lovely pet who taught me to love the breed with all of her antics and characteristics. So then I purchase my next boxer her name was Lola a classic brindle girl. As it would be Lola would never finish as she was a classic brindle at that time called a plain. Lola taught me patience and how to handle dogs in the show ring. So my love for the classic boxer goes to my original girl Lola. Venician Boxers came about for the love of the city where I grew up. Venice Beach California. I decided on changing my name from Avalon Kennels after 15 years of co-ownership and mentoring in from Dr. Daniel Buchwald, D. I could not thank him more for everything I have learned and continue to learn. I live in the South West part of the state which is surrounded by beautiful mountains. AKC proudly supports dedicated and responsible breeders. We encourage all prospective puppy owners to do their research and be prepared with questions to ask the breeder.

They are vet checked and micro chipped prior to going to their forever homes. We may consider full registration on very specific puppies and families. All of our puppies and dogs are raised in our home, where they are loved first and foremost. If we do not keep back from a certain breeding those on the list will automatically be moved up in picks. We always have inquiries regarding our puppies, and another family may be ready to reserve that same puppy. We encourage you to place a deposit as soon as you are ready! The puppy will be offered to the next family if we do not receive proof that the funds have been sent. Dorothy is a busy spit fire. She plays with other dogs and loves her toys. Loves all dog as long as they can handle her outgoing fast paced personality. On Jan. My vet found that she has grade 1 luxating petellas in both knees. She shows no clinical signs of issues, lameness or of being in pain. So her vet check really surprised me with this out come. I have attached my vets notes in pictures above. This 18 week old boy is available. He is a sweet goofy little man who is really wanting his fur ever family. Through no fault of his own he is available again. This little man deserves to find his new family. Females: pounds. Height Males: inches. Females: inches. However, the French Bulldog breed's distinguished breed heritage and intriguing history as a European companion dog place him on a level far above that of any swine. Modern French Bulldogs are descendants of large, ancient dogs that were kept by a Greek tribe known as the Molossians. The breed, known as the Molossus, is believed to have spread to other countries on the ships of seafaring peoples. Over time, the Molossus found its way to Britain, where British breeders created a new dog from his lineage: the Mastiff. Although the Mastiff's enormous physique has little in common with the petite French Bulldog, the breeds share a genetic link. Bullenbeissers were a subdivision of the mastiff lineage bred specifically for bullbaiting. Bullbaiting was a popular English blood sport during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries in which bulls were tied to a pole with 30 feet of leash. A bullbaiting dog was bred to crawl on his stomach toward the bull, avoid being gored by the horns, and bite the enraged bull on the snout. Many bullbaiting dogs were maimed or killed fighting bulls, and the British Parliament banned the practice in by passing the Cruelty to Animals Act. When the British Parliament outlawed bullbaiting, breeders focused on more humane roles for the dogs to fulfill in society. Many owners appreciated the tenacity and strength of bullbaiting dogs and attempted to make smaller versions that would carry those traits into companionship roles. The bullbaiting dogs were mixed with smaller breeds, such as terriers and pugs, hoping to create a more compact version of the beloved Bulldog. Toy Bulldogs emerged in England during the first half of the nineteenth century. Far lighter than the original Bulldog, some weighed as little as 12 pounds. Toy-sized Bulldogs fit better with city life than their larger counterparts. Since toy Bulldogs were smaller and lighter, they were easier to carry, and many male and female workers of the British Industrial Revolution chose toy Bulldogs as their pets. Workers who left Britain to find jobs as lace workers in France popularized the breed in their host country. The breed's now iconic, bat-like ears became a desired trait that distinguished the French Bulldog from the toy Bulldog. French socialites, especially women, grew particularly fond of the peculiar-looking dog, and many chose the French Bulldog specifically for his exceeding patience during gossip sessions. The French Bulldog became an accessory to fashionable women since the dog's appearance with his art nouveau ears drew the attention of onlookers and passersby during walks. Miniature Bulldogs became so popular in France that, by the year , French demand had nearly outstripped the supply of pups being exported by British breeders. News of the French Bulldog spread further west in the latter half of the nineteenth century. As in France, America's most elite families fawned over the breed, including the Rockefellers and the Morgans. In the twenty-first century, the French Bulldog was recognized as one of the top twenty most popular breeds in the United States. Breed Characteristics Head: Somewhat brachycephalic skull-type, moderate in size, shaped rather square, and in proportion to the rest of the body. From the front, the topskull is flat, or nearly flat, between the ears. In profile, the topskull appears long and slightly rounded and should not appear short or flat. It should be free from excess skin and wrinkles. The muscles, including those of the cheeks and the temporal muscles, are well-developed. The superciliary arches and a furrow at the stop are prominent. The occiput is not prominent. The head is clean-cut without excess skin or wrinkles. Eyes: The eyes are moderate in size, open-oval to round in shape, set rather far apart from one another and from the ears, and as dark in color as possible or self-colored according to the coat in lighter dogs. The eyes are never bulging. There should be sufficient bone in the surrounding orbital sockets to protect the eyes. Eye rims are darkly pigmented and tight-fitting. There should be no looseness, and the whites of the eyes should not be visible when looking forward. The ears are never long, overly large, or broken. Muzzle: The muzzle is broad, deep, full, well-developed, and may be somewhat laid back. It should never be so short as to appear flat in profile. Upper and lower jaws are wide, have good bone substance, and are strong and well-developed, never appearing snipy or weak. The lower jaw and chin are just slightly upturned, well-developed, and visible from the front or in profile; however, they should never protrude beyond the break of the lips when the mouth is shut. A very slight roll of skin is permissible on the top of the muzzle; however, a roll-free muzzle is preferred for hygienic reasons. Nose: The nose is well-pigmented, black, or self-colored, according to the coat in non-standard color varieties. The nostrils are well-opened. Neck: Moderate length allows for a proud head carriage, strongly muscled, with a slight arch. The neck tapers smoothly from the deeper and broader body toward the head. The neck is clean-cut, without excess skin, throatiness, or dewlap. Chest: Deep and broad but never wider than deep. The brisket extends to the point of the elbows or just below. Body: Compact, solid, somewhat cobby, and of good substance. The body is never racy or refined. The width at the forequarters is approximately equal to the width at the hindquarters. Feet: Oval to round, compact, with well-arched toes and tough pads. Toes may be oriented slightly outward. Tail: Set somewhat low on the croup, thick at the base, and tapering toward the tip. The tail should be left natural and never docked short. Natural tails are of a short to medium length, with the tip of the last vertebrae extending to the hock joints, or less, when held down. The tail may be straight or gently curved. Inverted tails, corkscrew tails, and kinked tails are extremely undesirable and potentially unhealthy. Movement: The movement is powerful, free, energetic, and efficient. The characteristics of a healthy structure are evident. When moving away, the forelegs and rear pasterns should remain parallel to one another. When viewing movement from the front, the forelegs should remain parallel, with elbows and paws moving neither in nor out. From the rear, the back pads should be visible when the rear legs are extended. As speed increases, the forelimbs and hindlimbs will converge to the center line of gravity. From the side, the topline should remain firm and level. Good reach of movement in the front allows the forepaw to extend out in line with the nose. When extended, the width between the forefeet should be approximately equal to the width between the hindfeet when extended, indicating balance, good reach, and good drive. Dogs that exhibit any sign of breathing or locomotive difficulty shall be disqualified from the show ring. Temperament: The French Bulldog breed is well-known for their calm and well-mannered temperament. They are intelligent, capable of learning many different types of tricks and disciplines, and take any task they are given very seriously. They are devoted, playful, and alert. They are lively, gregarious, and get along well with people, other dogs, and other animals that they have been socialized to, making them an ideal family companion. Any unprovoked aggressive or fearful behavior toward people is incorrect for this breed. The ideal body height-to-length ratio is between and .The build is compact, solid, and sturdy without appearing cloddy. Males should appear masculine, being more substantial in size and mass, while females should appear more feminine and slightly less substantial. Neither should lack overall type. The weight of males or females is always in proportion to height. Lightweight: Up to 22 pounds Heavyweight: pounds Head General Appearance: Somewhat brachycephalic skull-type, moderate in size, shaped rather square, and in proportion to the rest of the body. Expression: Intelligent, inquisitive, friendly, and jaunty, although capable of appearing to be quite professional. Stop: The stop is definite, preferably forming at least a degree angle between the topskull and muzzle. Skull: The ideal muzzle-to-skull ratio is between to , with the topskull being longer than the muzzle. The ideal muzzle-to-skull axis is convergent. Lips or Flews: Lips are broad and thick but clean and fit tightly over the teeth and jaws. Cheeks: The cheeks are well-padded, broad, and well-developed, adding to the square appearance of the face. They should never appear chiseled or flat. Dentition and Bite: Forty-two strong, clean, and white teeth. The bite may be level, reverse-scissor, or undershot. The tongue and teeth should remain concealed when the mouth is closed. Body and Tail General Description: Compact, solid, somewhat cobby, and of good substance. Topline: Straight and level from withers to croup. A gentle arch at the loin area is tolerated. The back is broad, strongly muscled, and straight, yet supple. The loin is taut and may be flat, level, or slightly arched yet supportive. The back is never swayed or roached, and the croup should never rise higher than the withers. Croup: Gently sloped. Underline: A slight tuck-up is present or the underline may run parallel to the topline. The underline is taut and firm, without any indication of sagging or excess weight. Ribs: Long, well-sprung, well-laid-back, oval-shaped, never barrel-chested or slab-sided. Forequarters and Hindquarters Forequarters: The forequarters are always balanced with the hindquarters and well-angulated with well-laid-back shoulder blades. Shoulder blades are approximately equal in length to the upper arm and forearm. Elbows: The elbows are close to the body. The distance from the withers to the brisket may be equal to or greater than the distance from the elbows to the ground. Forelegs: Frontal View: Straight, of good muscle, solid bone, and parallel to one another. Side View: The forelimbs appear straight with strong pasterns. Pasterns: Never weak or broken. Hindquarters: The upper and lower thighs are equal in length, strong, sturdy, of solid bone, and well-muscled. Rear View: When viewed from the rear, the rear pasterns are parallel to one another. Side View: Good angulation will allow the rear toes to align with the point of the rump or within one to two paw-lengths behind the point of the rump, with the rear pasterns remaining perpendicular to the ground and parallel to one another. Stifle Joint: Well-angulated with a good bend to well-let-down rear pasterns. Angulations: The angulation of the hindquarters is always in balance with the angulation of the forequarters. Coat Skin: Well-fitted, yet supple. The skin should never obstruct the outline of the dog. Coat Type: The coat is short, smooth, soft, glossy, and close to the body throughout. No fringe or feather is permissible. Standard coat color variety: Cream, tan, fawn tan with black mask , brindle, all with or without white markings, solid white. Non-standard coat color variety: Any colors that occur in the French Bulldog that are not accepted as standard colors, which include: Black, mouse, gray, blue, liver, Isabella, all with or without tan or brindle points, all as fawn mask , all as brindle, all with or without brindle white. Movement The movement is powerful, free, energetic, and efficient. Temperament The French Bulldog breed is well-known for their calm and well-mannered temperament. Faults All dogs should be in proper healthy condition, free from disease or defect. Any departure from this description is considered a fault. Unless altered, all male dogs should have two fully descended testicles. Find a Puppy. Never, ever, ever buy a dog registered with the CKC Continental Kennel Club if your intention is to breed, show, or stud the animal. The Continental Kennel Club is a giant scam. Mike Roy, the owner of the CKC, does not care about the quality of breeds or the animals he allows to be registered with his illegitimate company. This is especially true for rare and uncommon breeds such as the French Bulldog. The AKC hosts countless conformation, agility, and Best in Show events all over the country and world at large. There are endless titles and ranks professionally administered and presided over by the AKC. The AKC has in its posession over years of documented dog breed pedigrees. Their requirements for registering litters are stringent. Both parents must be AKC registered in order to register a litter. Pedigrees can be tracked right from the AKC website. Now Stop. Realize that the CKC offers none of this. The Continental Kennel Club does not offer reliable pedigrees for their registered dogs. From the very beginning, the AKC has approached breed management through stringent biology and documentation. Official AKC-accepted breeds are qualified by documented histories of registered litters between dams and sires dating back nearly years. The Continental Kennel Club cannot offer this reliability to you. The Continental Kennel Club Has No Registration Standard The CKC will allow anyone with any dog, regardless of pedigree, to register their litters and receive paperwork for free that looks like legitimate dog registration applications similar to what one would receive from an AKC-registered breeder. This is a continuation of the scam. The CKC requires only a handful of photos to register a dog as purebred. This means the degradation of the breed. The CKC exists purely as a scam to fool unsuspecting people into buying questionably bred dogs from breeders who do not want to adhere to the humane and stringent quality standards set forth by the AKC. Note Well: If you are absolutely in love with a puppy registered with the Continental Kennel Club, try to set your emotions aside and consider the ramifications of paying the breeder for the dog. We have personally dug up several puppy mills operating as legitimate breeders by simply looking up who registers their animals with the Continental Kennel Club. Nine times out of ten, the conditions were unfit for the animals and the owners were slapped with some nice legal charges for their hubris. When searching for a people, we encourage you to report anyone attempting to sell animals registered with the CKC, as it is an immediate red flag of sub-par breeding and it follows that cutting corners means poor conditions for the puppies and their parents. Sabrina A. Luna Lou when she was itty bitty Bath time can be a stressful time for our pets but also for us! Here are a few tips that have helped us make bath time a little more enjoyable for everyone. Dallas will tiptoe around a puddle if she can. Therefore, I do what I can to make it as pleasant as possible. Lucky for them, I used to be a hairstylist and give a mean scrub and massage. But before we get to the rubby-dubby stuff I start with a warm bath and some sweet talking. I run the tub with warm water and double check the temp before letting them in. I call them over with positive energy and promises of treats. One really important thing to have is an anti-slip mat for your tub. It really helps them stand and feel more confident in the bath. Make sure you have your shampoo, towels, cup, and something to put under your knees. Our dogs, being bulldogs, can have skin irritations so I use a shampoo that is formulated for sensitive skin and has little to no scent. Just like humans, dogs all have different needs and that should be taken into consideration when choosing their shampoo. As I mentioned, I stay away from strong smelling shampoos. As tempting as it is to buy the luxurious smelling dog shampoo and how nice it would be for us to snuggle our noses into their perfumed fur, you have to remember how sensitive dogs noses are and also those strong perfumes can be drying on their skin. Washing Off the Stink Once they are in the tub, I take a cup and scoop the warm water and get them all wet. I am very careful not to get water in their face and ears. I just use my one hand to hold her ears out of the way while I carefully pour water behind her ears. I avoid washing their face and just use a wash cloth. Next, I add soap to my hands and start scrubbing. I rinse her all off and then do a second shampoo. This time I let it sit on while I give her one of my super massages and good butt scratches. I now do a final rinse and continue until all soap is gone. You really want to make sure you get it all off or it can cause irritation. I follow that with a rub with my hands to try and get some water off before taking them out of the tub. I like to have a couple towels on the floor layered open on top of each other. It is what it is! Good thing they are cute, right?! After they have shaken all the water off themselves and all over your bathroom sorry, no tip for that one…if you have one, please share! If you have a bulldog or any other wrinkly faced pooch, make sure to dry their wrinkles well. Same goes for that tail pocket. I like to use my blow dryer on low with a few shots of cool to dry the tail pocket. Just like people, washing too often will strip them of their natural oils. Usually the nose knows. If they are smelling a little wild, we bathe. That is usually every couple months. During allergy season we bathe more often.

We are an all-volunteer group of German Shepherd lovers dedicated to rescuing German Shepherd Dogs from at-risk and unacceptable situations and finding them permanent, loving homes with qualified owners. We also work cooperatively with animal shelters, professional trainers, and other rescue groups toward our common goals of saving dogs' lives. Except for a portion of Nevada around Lake Tahoe, we don't adopt dogs out of state and rarely adopt out of our area. Adoption events are held in Riverbank Modesto , Sacramento and Roseville every month, rain or shine, from 11am - 2pm. The schedule is: Riverbank - 2nd Saturday of the month, Sacramento - 3rd Saturday of the month and Roseville - 4th Saturday of the month. You can see which dogs scheduled to attend each adoption event at: www. Please check back on the Friday afternoon before each adoption event for the final line-up and check out their bios on the Adoptable Dogs page. Adoption Policy Our Philosophy The dogs are our clients and we do what is in the dog's best interests. We match the dog to a suitable home where the dog will be happy and fulfilled, and the dog must approve of the match as well. That means we don't adopt dogs over the internet, as gifts, or sight unseen. Home Visit We require a home visit by one of our own volunteers because we match the home to a specific dog, and we want to meet all members of the household and all other pets at that time, and make sure that environment will work for that dog. The home must be safe and suitable for our dog, and that means we won't adopt to a home with out-of-control children or out-of-control resident dogs. Outside Dogs We rarely place dogs in outside only homes. All of our dogs come out of shelters and into volunteer foster homes where they live in the house with the people. We haven't had much success re-homing them to an outside-only home after that. We believe that dogs are happier living and sleeping inside with their family pack, which has been borne out from many years of bringing dogs into rescue. The home must be safe and secure, and legally allowed to have a German Shepherd Dog, and be within the allowable number of dogs. We require landlord consent for renters. The entire household must be a good match for the dog, therefore we won't place a higher Level dog in a lower Level household. Adoption Day Events At an adoption day, if there are several parties interested in the same dog at an Adoption Day, we will make sure everyone who arrives on time has a chance to meet the dog and then our volunteers will help make the best match for that dog. Not everyone is the right match for every dog. We do what is in the dog's best interests. Puppies We have special requirements and an additional questionnaire for puppies, please be sure you meet the requirements before sending in an application. Since we see so many dogs that have come out of an unsuitable environment, we want to make sure our puppies have the very best start in life. That means we won't adopt a puppy into an Outside Only home or where the puppy will be alone the majority of the time, as we don't feel that's an optimum environment to raise a happy and well-socialized dog. Adoption Restrictions If there is a vacation or major change imminent, such as moving, having another adult move in, or having a baby, we won't place a dog in that home. Those events are extremely stressful and it wouldn't be fair to expect a new dog to adjust well to them. We Reserve the Right to refuse to adopt to anyone who we feel isn't a good match to a dog, in particular or in general, as not every household is suitable for a rescued German Shepherd Dog. We will not adopt to anyone who is hostile, belligerent, deceitful or disrespectful to our volunteers, our dogs, our organization, or otherwise refuses to follow our policies or accept our guidelines. Adopter Preferences Yes, we do have preferences for adopters and they would get first choice on any of our dogs above the general public, provided it is an appropriate home for the dog rating level, energy, children, other pets, etc. Yes, our volunteers pay the same adoption fee as everyone else. No, we don't give dogs away for free, not even to our volunteers. Our unapologetic order of preference is: 1. The Foster Home - they always have the first option of keeping their foster dog. This is known as a Foster Failure, and we have many repeat offenders. Active Volunteers - it's the only perk we get for all the hard work we do. Previous Successful Adopters - they have proven they know how to take care of a dog and we love repeat customers! These are the folks who have kept a dog safe and happy through sickness and health until the end of the dog's life. Highly Qualified Owners Level 3 or above personally known and recommended by one of our volunteers who will vouch for the home and handling ability. General Public. In between Adoption Days, those who get their Adoption Questionnaire in and are available for a Home Visit will be ahead of those who don't! We are an all-volunteer group of German Shepherd lovers dedicated to rescuing German Shepherd Dogs from at-risk and unacceptable situations and finding them permanent, loving homes with qualified owners. We also work cooperatively with animal shelters, professional trainers, and other rescue groups toward our common goals of saving dogs' lives. Except for a portion of Nevada around Lake Tahoe, we don't adopt dogs out of state and rarely adopt out of our area. Adoption events are held in Riverbank Modesto , Sacramento and Roseville every month, rain or shine, from 11am - 2pm. The schedule is: Riverbank - 2nd Saturday of the month, Sacramento - 3rd Saturday of the month and Roseville - 4th Saturday of the month. You can see which dogs scheduled to attend each adoption event at: www. Please check back on the Friday afternoon before each adoption event for the final line-up and check out their bios on the Adoptable Dogs page. Adoption Policy Our Philosophy The dogs are our clients and we do what is in the dog's best interests. We match the dog to a suitable home where the dog will be happy and fulfilled, and the dog must approve of the match as well. That means we don't adopt dogs over the internet, as gifts, or sight unseen. Home Visit We require a home visit by one of our own volunteers because we match the home to a specific dog, and we want to meet all members of the household and all other pets at that time, and make sure that environment will work for that dog. The home must be safe and suitable for our dog, and that means we won't adopt to a home with out-of-control children or out-of-control resident dogs. Outside Dogs We rarely place dogs in outside only homes. All of our dogs come out of shelters and into volunteer foster homes where they live in the house with the people. We haven't had much success re-homing them to an outside-only home after that. We believe that dogs are happier living and sleeping inside with their family pack, which has been borne out from many years of bringing dogs into rescue. The home must be safe and secure, and legally allowed to have a German Shepherd Dog, and be within the allowable number of dogs. We require landlord consent for renters. The entire household must be a good match for the dog, therefore we won't place a higher Level dog in a lower Level household. Adoption Day Events At an adoption day, if there are several parties interested in the same dog at an Adoption Day, we will make sure everyone who arrives on time has a chance to meet the dog and then our volunteers will help make the best match for that dog. Not everyone is the right match for every dog. We do what is in the dog's best interests. Puppies We have special requirements and an additional questionnaire for puppies, please be sure you meet the requirements before sending in an application. Since we see so many dogs that have come out of an unsuitable environment, we want to make sure our puppies have the very best start in life. That means we won't adopt a puppy into an Outside Only home or where the puppy will be alone the majority of the time, as we don't feel that's an optimum environment to raise a happy and well-socialized dog. Adoption Restrictions If there is a vacation or major change imminent, such as moving, having another adult move in, or having a baby, we won't place a dog in that home. Those events are extremely stressful and it wouldn't be fair to expect a new dog to adjust well to them. We Reserve the Right to refuse to adopt to anyone who we feel isn't a good match to a dog, in particular or in general, as not every household is suitable for a rescued German Shepherd Dog. We will not adopt to anyone who is hostile, belligerent, deceitful or disrespectful to our volunteers, our dogs, our organization, or otherwise refuses to follow our policies or accept our guidelines. Adopter Preferences Yes, we do have preferences for adopters and they would get first choice on any of our dogs above the general public, provided it is an appropriate home for the dog rating level, energy, children, other pets, etc. Yes, our volunteers pay the same adoption fee as everyone else. No, we don't give dogs away for free, not even to our volunteers. Our unapologetic order of preference is: 1. The Foster Home - they always have the first option of keeping their foster dog. This is known as a Foster Failure, and we have many repeat offenders. Active Volunteers - it's the only perk we get for all the hard work we do. Previous Successful Adopters - they have proven they know how to take care of a dog and we love repeat customers! These are the folks who have kept a dog safe and happy through sickness and health until the end of the dog's life. Highly Qualified Owners Level 3 or above personally known and recommended by one of our volunteers who will vouch for the home and handling ability. General Public. In between Adoption Days, those who get their Adoption Questionnaire in and are available for a Home Visit will be ahead of those who don't!

Whether you have a puppy or an adult poodle, it is best to start house training him soon after bringing him home. The earlier you begin, the quicker your poodle will know the proper place to go to the bathroom. The longer you wait, the more ingrained bad bathroom habits can become, making house training that much harder. Your poodle should know when it is time to go outside to use the bathroom. Since puppies cannot hold their bladders for very long, they will need to go out more frequently. Good times to take your puppy out are first thing in the morning, after playing, and after eating or drinking. The AKC advocates for the responsible ownership of dogs and promotes purebred dog events, such as the Westminster Dog Show. Go to source As your puppy poodle ages, wait for longer periods before taking him out after different activities. This will strengthen his bladder muscles. Keep the schedule consistent to decrease the chance of accidents in the house. Your poodle should go to the bathroom in the same place every time he goes outside. This will help him remember where he should go. If you have a backyard, choose an area that is away from areas where people would go e. The area should also be away from potential distractions, such as a busy street. Put some puppy pee pads down so he can relieve himself when you are not home. As he gets older and can hold his bladder for longer, discontinue using the pee pads. Go to source If you do not have a yard, pick a nearby grassy area. Although you should identify the general area where your poodle should go, allow him to pick the exact spot within that area. When you take him outside, let him sniff around and explore within the general area until he settles on a specific spot. It may be tempting to give your poodle only a few minutes to go to the bathroom before you bring him in, especially if you are in a rush. However, rushing your Poodle when he is outside will not be very effective for house training—he may hold it so he can spend more time with you inside, increasing the chances of him having an accident. Ideally, you should give your poodle about 15 to 20 minutes outside. As you house train your poodle, reward him with positive reinforcement e. However, if he has an accident, do not punish him. Punishing him will make him fearful of you and make house training more difficult. Use an enzymatic cleaner that will remove the odor so your poodle will not go back to that same spot. Go to source If you catch him in the act of having an accident, interrupt him with a firm verbal command e. When he finishes eliminating outside, give him verbal praise and a treat. Some Final Words Dogs do not come with computer sips, on-off buttons, or anything that would make it easy to train your pet. They do come with a desire to please their masters, for the most part, and that desire does make it easier to train some species over another. Miniature poodles have that desire to please their master, making it easier to train them and get them to do the behavior you want them to do. It just takes the right training method and a lot of patience. To get some tips on how to train your pet, just continue to read our article. It has the information you need to know about. Training your pet to not do these activities will not happen overnight. In some cases, your pet may have a legitimate reason why they do them and you may need to talk to your vet about those reasons. Training Your Miniature Poodle Poodles are very intelligent dogs. They can catch on to your commands and training very quickly. This may not be so in all cases but in a majority of them. You just have to be consistent in your commands and reward or punishment system. You also have to be gentle so that your poodle does not become afraid of you. However, some owners get frustrated with this advice and claim that their poodle or other dog species does not respond to the command. There are two reasons for this response: 1. They understand but ignore it — The reason they ignore your command is that your pet may not respect you. He or she just does not see any reason why they need to listen or obey you. This is another problem that takes a lot of work to overcome. How Dogs View Commands, Etc. Dogs do not see the world or life in the same way that you see them. You need to understand this difference if you are going to get your pet to obey your commands and training. When you interact with your pet, they are constantly analyzing certain aspects of your behavior. Those aspects include: Your tone of voice. A well-trained poodle is better prepared to live in the admittedly unnatural urban environments we humans have long adjusted to. Training helps with anxiety, sociability, and general adaptability. That said, there are a few basic training tips that we can cover before running through our poodle training timeline. Then, you take your dog to the park. They rely on the context. A Tan Poodle sitting on an outdoor lounge. Poodle pups, like all puppies, have really short attention spans. Poodle Puppy Training At Home First 30 Days Poodle puppies in the first thirty days of their lives are not even technically puppies yet. We call them neonates as they are still quite underdeveloped puppies are born blind, for example. It is very unlikely that anyone reading this article will be in possession of neonates, as neonates must be around their mother for breastfeeding and socialization with the litter. Generally, puppies are given around eight weeks to their new owners, but there is a lot of things the breeder can do to prepare the neonates for their future lives. The breeder can, among other things , begin socializing the dog by exposing it to more than people, begin chew toy training, potty train, and teach basic commands like sit, down, and roll over. The above is, however, quite rare, which means all these things typically must be done by the new owner when he or she adopts the dog. Bring as many friends and strangers as you can to your house. Have them come in and give your dog a treat for sitting or lying down. Let them pet the dog and touch its ears gently. When training, be sure to train your puppy with the leash on. Puppies, at this point, should be meeting as many others as it possibly can. It should have contact with many, many different human beings from all walks of life. The puppy should be exposed to people in hats, men with mustaches, old men, and children. They all should interact with the dog, so it can begin to understand that humans, small and large, represent no threat to your poodle puppy. This is also the time in which you should be training your dog in bite inhibition. Bite inhibition is incredibly important and not to be overlooked. If a puppy is not trained how to bite, it can cause serious damage when it is an adult dog. Training your dog to chew on chew toys , for example, is a good way to train bite inhibition. Also, puppies will naturally want to nibble on your hand. Between eight weeks and three months, this is completely acceptable behavior. Your efforts in this now will allow your puppy to understand the strength of its own bite. Poodle Puppy Kindergarten Three Months To Six Months Between three months and six months, your poodle puppy should be going out into the great wide world! Extensive leash training is necessary in this stage. You want to get your poodle pup accustomed to the sights and sounds of the outside world. In particular, begin to notice what kinds of stimuli make your dog nervous. People on bicycles? Men with suspenders? Whatever these stimuli are, begin to classically condition your dog to like these things. Whenever one of these stimuli comes close to your dog, give it a treat or some praise. It will begin to associate the positive feelings of eating with the people on bikes or the cars, and its nervousness will be conditioned away. Never mind: this is natural. Simply double down with the training. Juvenility, with all its awkwardness and difficulties, is as real for poodle puppies as it is for humans. Male dogs, especially, will begin picking fights at the dog park. Training, meanwhile, will continue to regress. In this critical period, socialization remains as important as ever. Take your dog to the dog park weekly and continue leash training as well as house training. You can begin to experiment with some fun things, too, like agility training. Sweet Adulthood At a certain point after poodle high school, your poodle puppy grows up. Your poodle may calm down considerably at this stage and begin to feel more self-confident and self-contained, but you need to redouble training efforts. There is no day off for training, even in adulthood. Continue to reward good habits and address behavioral issues before they can creep into the status of habit. My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More. A resounding yes! Poodles ARE easy to train. Whether they are of the standard, miniature, or toy variety, Poodles are one of the most trainable dog breeds with their keen intelligence and eagerness to please their masters. Almost any dog owner will be able to train an average Poodle to a very high standard. The American Kennel Club gives the Poodle breed their highest marks on trainability. With equally high marks in mental stimulation needs, your poodle will enjoy working for your approval. While no dog is perfect, Poodles are highly trainable. They come close! As dogs originally bred for hunting, Poodles are meant to work and are happier with tasks to perform. Training gives purpose to their roles as furry companions with opportunities to please their masters, something that they naturally strive to do. As such, they are very receptive to learning new tasks and behaviors. With their above-average intelligence, Poodles enjoy the mental stimulation the training process provides. They are smart enough to understand what you are trying to guide them to do, which makes training easier for both master and dog. Provide positive reinforcement, and your Poodle will be more than cooperative with your training efforts! Benefits of Training Your Poodle A guilty looking two color Poodle Properly training your Poodle ensures you get the behavior you expect from your pet so that you and your Poodle are happy living together. Remember, your Poodle is eager to please you, so you are fulfilling a need for your dog while making pet ownership a positive experience for all involved. Training also helps keep your Poodle focused on more desirable and constructive activities. Without proper stimulation, your Poodle may find her own entertainment, which may not be to your liking! Being a high-energy breed means your Poodle needs a good deal of exercise. Teaching your Poodle games such as fetch and other athletic feats can fill the need for physical activity while instilling discipline and providing an opportunity for following commands and practicing recall. A Miniature gray Poodle enjoying the outdoors. Generally speaking, after 2 solid weeks of intense Poodle housetraining , most Poodles begin to get the idea that they need to do their business outdoors. That being said, full house training for puppies may take from months. The number of accidents and time frame for completing training varies from dog to dog regardless of breed, but Poodles are smart cookies and catch on to the routine more quickly than average. There are several methods to housetrain a dog, and Poodles are no exception. Whatever method you decide to use, consistency and positive reinforcement are key. Your Poodle needs regular repetition to learn what is expected of her and help her develop the ability to control her bodily functions. A chocolate Toy Poodle eating from a ceramic bowl Your Poodle is highly capable of learning obedience commands that help her be social with humans and other dogs. Basic commands are easy to teach your Poodle with positive reinforcement and repetition. Some beginning commands for your Poodle to master are sit, stay, come, down, and stand. After your Poodle has mastered a few basics, you can continue adding additional commands you wish her to learn. See our timeline for Poodle training. Know at which age you should be teaching certain tricks and behavior. They can be frightened of waves though. Compare the Poodle vs Cockapoo in our guide. While as a breed Poodles are highly rated in terms of trainability, in some cases you may encounter challenges while training your Poodle. Poodles love attention and are not afraid to bark or resort to other unwanted behavior to get it. As hard as it may be, there will be times when ignoring certain behaviors may be the path for eliminating them. Once the unwanted behavior stops, you can give your Poodle some desired attention and a treat. Poodles are also a high-energy breed. For this reason, it may sometimes be frustrating to get your Poodle calm enough to pay attention during training sessions. Making sure your Poodle gets sufficient exercise can help her focus on the task at hand. Training when your Poodle is in a calm state with minimal distractions will produce better results. Some Poodles love water from puppyhood! Do Your Research — There are many ways to train a dog. Compare methods for teaching specific behaviors to evaluate which method you are most comfortable with and feel you can stick to. Programs for intelligent and high-energy dogs will be best suited for your Poodle. Have a Plan — Keep in mind the behavior you are working on and be familiar with the steps for your chosen teaching method. Keep it Simple — Stick to one method or habit at a time. Be Consistent — Apply the training method you are using for a specific desired behavior consistently over time for best results. Dogs are also motivated by affection, playtime, and special toys. Be mentally prepared to work through those moments and keep your eye on the prize! Remain Calm — Training takes time and effort. Many behaviors need a great deal of repetition to become habits for your Poodle. Your patience and positive attitude will be rewarded! Poodle Puppy House Training Overview While housebreaking a puppy may feel like a huge obstacle that is time-consuming at best and an undertaking that may fail at worst, there are definitely things that you can do to set your Poodle puppy up for success for potty training. There are 2 main elements: Having a clear plan in mind that will encourage a pup to learn quickly Having reasonable expectations based on the age of your Poodle In this section, we will go over all of the important steps for effective and fast training. Age to House Train This is most certainly not something that you will want to put off. Whether you have a brand-new Poodle puppy or an older, adopted dog that needs to learn, it is best to begin right away. Every day that this is not taught, is another day that the dog has wrong information about what to do and this just in and of itself will make housebreaking harder. Keep in mind that new puppies should not be brought outside to public areas or even your yard if there is a chance that other dogs have been there until the full rounds of puppy vaccinations are complete. Each vet schedule is slightly different; however, in general this is done by about the 4 month mark. If you are not sure, check with your vet. Having a Housebreaking Plan It's not uncommon for a puppy to pee or have a bowel movement with very little warning. And without a plan in place, this is when you'll see owners scrambling and picking up the pup while he dribbles urine as he's being carried out the door. While you will not catch every accident, you really will have much better success when you and all members of the family have a clear potty training plan in place. We would suggest reviewing what is needed, obtaining all of the necessities to be properly prepped, and then beginning. What is Needed Before You Begin There are a few things that you will need in order for housebreaking to be successful: 1 A supervision method. This is vital. Puppies or dog that have free rein in the house will be exceptionally hard to train. When you are home and are able to have your Poodle right by your side, use the tethering method. This means that your Poodle will be wearing a harness not a collar, since this can cause neck injury and will be on leash. The leash should be short and it should have a soft-looped handle, so that you can weave this through your belt loop or slip it over your wrist. When you are not home, or if you are home but cannot keep your Poodle near you, you'll need to keep your puppy or dog in a defined, secure area. Crates are not recommended; these are terribly confining and can cause a dog to feel both physically and emotionally stressed. Furthermore, they do not help with housebreaking; a dog will pee and poo when they need to. Gating off an entire room is also not recommended. This is too large of an area to do really do anything, and therefore there will still be pee and poo everywhere. One of the best methods is to use an indoor canine playpen. These are sturdy, open-top pens that allow a Poodle to move around, play, have all his favorite belongings food, water, toys, bed , but also keep messes contained. As a side note, these are great for separation anxiety, as they offer a secure 'den' that keeps all of a Poodle's aids right by them. And, these are perfect for the teething phase to keep a Poodle puppy from chewing apart the house. Recommended playpens to help with house training are below. These can be found with or without doors, and range from 24" ideal for toy and miniature Poodles to 48" better for standards, especially if continued to be used as the puppy grows. If you do not see the images, try a refresh. And on mobile, you may need to turn your screen horizontal to see all 4. Giving a Poodle incentive to do something applies to potty training, perhaps, more than it does with any other single action. Once something is a learned behavior, it become automatic though it is still nice to reinforce good behavior now and again. For housebreaking to happen quickly, you need to 1 give super-happy praise and simultaneously 2 offer the right type of reward. The training treat should be: New - It should not be something that you give to your Poodle for regular snacks. If you've found a great, all-natural and healthy snack that you'd like to keep giving, see if it comes in a different flavor. Small - House training treats need to be small. A puppy needs immediate satisfaction, and you cannot achieve this with something that a dog needs to sit down to chew on. Extra flavorful - It should be appealing to a Poodle sense of smell and sense of taste, offering a burst of flavor that will encourage the desire for more. And 'more' can only happen when the Poodle goes to the bathroom in the right area. Below are our top recommended training treats. And on mobile, you may need to turn the screen horizontal to see all 4. Dogs that are simply brought 'outside' for bathroom needs rarely have a good, clear understanding of what is expected. If they are out there long enough, they may very well go to the bathroom. However, your goal should be going above this and instilling the full concept of having one area for urination and elimination needs. Choose the area wisely; what may seem like a great spot in the summer may not work well in the winter. The bathroom area should be close to the home, not a spot that is used for anything else play area, gardening, etc. Within the chosen area, allow your Poodle to choose the exact spot that he prefers. Dogs that have a choice learn much faster and are more eager to follow the rules. It is best to stand in the middle of the area with your puppy on a 6 to 8 foot leash. Allow him to circle around and, sniff. Some will then need time for the bladder to relax or for the bowel muscles to push out stool. Since young puppies have weak bladder and bowel muscles, they can often pee or poo with very little warning. Whatever you need in order to bring your Poodle outside should be ready at the exit door. This will include a pair of shoes, an appropriate coat or jacket depending on the weather, clothing for your Poodle - should there be a need, an umbrella in case it is raining, a leash and even a book or magazine to thumb though while you wait. For the times that you are home, you will want to bring your Poodle to the designated area at the following times: First thing in the morning Any time right after the puppy wakes up from a nap Every 2 hours for a 2 month old, every 3 hours for a 3 month old, every 4 hours for a 4 month old, etc. It would certainly make things easier if dogs understood what we were saying when we spoke full sentences after they did something that we didn't approve of. However, puppies that are rewarded for good deeds and quietly forgiven for accidents are able to pick up what the owner wishes for without any scolding. Please remember that you want your Poodle to respect you, not fear you. And while it may feel good to release a bit of steam if you find a puddle of pee, yelling or acting frustrated will only confused and stress a puppy that really has no idea why you are upset. Dogs learn best when they can associate a word with an action. So, you'll want everyone in the house to be in agreement as to which word s will be used for housebreaking. It's best to keep it short, and have it be something that you do not feel uncomfortable saying in public. You will use this as you head outside 'Do you need to go potty? While some puppies will instantly pee or poo, others need time. Owners that only give the pup only a few minutes may have trouble with the training. Since 5 minutes can feel like 20 if you are bored, cold or otherwise uncomfortable or antsy, plan ahead. Have an outdoor chair located right in the middle of the bathroom area and plan ahead to check your mail or email during these times. It is recommended to give the puppy a good 15 minutes and if you just know that a bowel movement is due, give it .While on this note, one of the biggest problems that owners encounter is when a puppy won't pee in his spot no matter how long there, but will pee as soon as being brought back inside. A good tip to fix this, should it happen often, is hold him after you come back inside he won't pee on you ; then head back out in about 10 minutes. While young Poodles need to be taken out often see above , if they are kept on that schedule as they mature, they will not have an opportunity to learn to hold their needs and bladder and bowel muscles will not strengthen as they otherwise would. As you puppy grows older, stretch out the periods of time in between taking him out. While the carpet may look clean after you scrub it with dish soap and a sturdy brush, soap does not eliminate enzymes that are in urine. And those lingering enzymes you won't smell these, but your Poodle will essentially scream 'This is the bathroom area! So, all areas that have been pee'd or poo'd on need to be cleaned with an enzyme cleanser. Puppies are terrific at making whining noises and barking in the middle of the night, without letting us know if they need to go to the bathroom or are just bored and wanting some attention. If a puppy pees and poos before bedtime, it is far more likely that he wants your company as opposed to having a real need. However, it is always best to be safe than sorry. The important element is that this be done in a very serious manner without any play or other interaction. Keep lights low, bring your Poodle puppy directly to his spot, wait the allotted time without speaking other than praise if the deed is done and then bring him right back. A puppy will soon learn that barking for attention at night does not bring about any interaction that would seem worthy of making a fuss but that alerting you in regard to bathroom needs does result in praise and a quick treat. It's a common occurrence for owners to bring their Poodle for a walk in the neighborhood and just let the puppy go to the bathroom along the way. However, this is a missed opportunity for a house training lesson. Bring your Poodle to his spot first and then bring him for his exercise. Housebreaking Exact Steps This is exactly how to bring your Poodle out, what to say, and what to do: 1. Head outside with your Poodle on leash and harness, saying your chosen phrase Let's go potty , and with the training treats in a small zipped plastic bag, kept in your pocket. Lead your Poodle directly to the designated bathroom area, repeating the phrase. Stand in the middle of the designated area, allowing your Poodle to roam within the diameter and sniff around. Allow 10 to 15 minutes. If your Poodle pees or poos, without completely distracting your pup, mark the action with your chosen word said in a happy tone, You're going potty. During this time, be reaching for the training treat. As soon as your Poodle is done, bend to his level, give great praise in a super-enthusiastic voice Good potty, oh, you are such a good dog! If your Poodle had a bowel movement, and you believe that there may be a urination need, remain outside for an additional 5 minutes. A Final Word While you will need a bit of patience during this time, with a good plan and lots of enthusiasm from you, your Poodle puppy should be completely house trained with a few months. After you feel that he is fully trained, be sure to still bring him out often enough, and continue to offer praise to reinforce the lessons that have been learned. How to Stop a Poodle From Marking - Both males and females may display territorial marking, and this is a separate issue than housebreaking. Learn why dogs do this, and exactly how to stop it. The Best Type of Toys for a Poodle - If you think of toys as tools, you'll see that certain ones can help with a range of issues. See the top toys for teething, treat-release, chewing, boredom, and as aids when home alone. Giving a Poodle a Bath - Great tips and advice for successful baths that are beneficial to skin and coat. All rights reserved. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Share Us. How to train your Poodle February 10, Poodle puppies are cute, energetic, and eager to please. Their higher intelligence may make training a challenge. Here are a few tips to help you train your Poodle puppy. Poodles are smart, headstrong, and full of energy—I should know; I share my life with a now-senior Poodle and a five-month-old puppy. According to a study , The Intelligence of Dogs, Poodles are the second smartest dog breed. Poodle puppies are cute, energetic, and eager to please; however, due to their higher intelligence, they may get bored quickly. The Poodle puppy will pay attention to everything that is going on around her and will be learning—both good and bad—from what happens within the household. Poodle Training Tips Teach your puppy his name. This should be a no-brainer. Teaching his name is the first thing you should do. Teach your Poodle puppy to sit. Her bum will naturally go to the ground. Continue practicing this until she sits without needing the treat moved above her head. Tip: Many Poodle parents use a hand signal along with the verbal cue. Next, teach your Poodle puppy to stay. Then, teach your Poodle puppy to lie down. You will get her to sit, then holding a treat in your fingers, move your hand toward the ground and out in front of the puppy. She will naturally move forward and her belly will touch the ground. Housetraining your Poodle puppy. Housetraining a puppy is best done as early as possible. A dog or puppy can be housetrained, but the older your Poodle is, the longer it may take. To begin to housetrain a Poodle puppy, you need to have a set schedule for going outdoors. This way he can do his business regularly. Use positive reinforcement when housetraining your Poodle. When she successfully goes to the bathroom outdoors, reward her with a treat and praise. Having accidents in the house is part of having a puppy in the house. When housebreaking your Poodle puppy, keep these things in mind: Take him out regularly and frequently: when he wakes up, before his meals, and after his meals. For example, a five-month old puppy should be able to go five hours without having to do his business. We urge you to take your puppy our more frequently though. A puppy class can be a great first step in training your Poodle. These classes are ideal for basic training and for introducing your puppy to others and helping socialize him. Training a Poodle puppy, or any puppy, takes patience, kindness and positive reinforcement. It is also a way to build your bond with your puppy—so enjoy the time you spend together, and your puppy will happily learn to do as you ask. Robbi Hess, award-winning author, is multi-petual: She shares her home with two Devon Rex kittens, three adult rescue cats, a mini poodle, a Goldendoodle, three lizards and two ferrets. When not caring for her pets, she is an editor, speaker, time management and productivity guru, content creator, social media manager and blogger. Your Pet's Type.

Top Picks For Our Dogs Preparing Your Home For A Puppy You should treat the preparation of your home for the arrival of a new puppy in much the same way as you would for the arrival of a baby because the process is almost identical. You must be ready to provide every little thing your puppy needs in life, making sure they have water, are fed, comfortable, happy, catered for and safe. To achieve this there are 4 main things that you need to do: Go shopping for equipment and supplies Puppy proof your home and garden to make sure your puppy stays safe Set up an area for your puppy to sleep and spend time in when you cannot supervise them Decide on the rules and routines required to successfully raise a puppy Without such preparation, things will be difficult. A Nutritious Puppy Food The most important supply needed for a new puppy is a highly nutritious puppy food. Hopefully your puppy came from a responsible breeder who was feeding them a high quality, complete and nutritious food. If so, you should ask what they were feeding, stock up on and continue feeding this if possible. If not, then puppies are incredibly active, growing fast and developing bone, muscle and more every day. Because of this they need almost double the calories, more protein and have different nutritional needs to mature adult dogs. Furthermore, they have far smaller mouths than adult dogs so puppy food comes in smaller chunks more suited to their size. Click here to see our recommendations for the best puppy food for labs Bowls for Food And Water There is a bewildering array of dog bowl choices out there so choosing the best can be difficult. Looks and design aside, I recommend going for stainless steel bowls because they are long-lasting, cannot be chewed and are very easy to clean. I also recommend buying bowls with heavy rubber bottoms so they stay rooted to the spot and are harder to spill or flip over. Unless of course you buy bowls in a stand, then these problems are already solved. A Puppy Crate And Bedding A good crate is one of the most beneficial things you can provide for the good of yourself and your puppy. First of all, supply some bedding to place inside for your puppy to sleep on. My recommendation for this is VetBed. Many puppies can chew and ingest normal bedding which can result in medical emergencies and VetBed is the most durable bedding on the market. During these times you need to provide a larger, but still safe enclosure to confine your puppy. You might also like to buy a plastic sheet and some puppy pads or use lots of old newspaper for them to use as a potty in your absence. Puppy Chew Toys Puppies chew. A lot. And they seem to prefer chewing phones, footwear and TV remotes more than anything else. Just make sure whatever toys you do buy are suitable for a puppy as many will be too large for their little mouths to begin with. Interactive Puppy Toys So you can play games with your puppy, provide exercise and mental stimulation, you will want to buy a few toys that encourage the two of you to interact. Balls for throwing and chasing, soft toys and ropes for playing tug, other toys for fetch, there are many available. You will also need a collar to provide a place to attach an all important ID tag. ID Tag An ID tag is an essential means to be reunited with your puppy should the worst happen and you somehow lose them or they run away. Clicker A clicker is an extremely useful tool used during training as a reward marker that dramatically improves the timing of communication between you and your puppy when you want to reward a behavior. Although not essential, I do highly recommend you use one. Puppy Training Treats Tasty food treats are the go-to reward used during training so you will want to make sure you always have a good stock at hand. They need to feel happy with being bathed, happy having their coat and teeth brushed, their feet touched, nails clipped and having their eyes and ears inspected. To do so, you should fake going the process, getting them used to being handled, the sight and feel of the tools and so on. To achieve this, you will need to buy and get them used to the following items: Dog shampoo Combs and brushes suitable for a Labrador Scissors Cotton balls Toothbrush Use these tools right away and often, and give your puppy praise and tasty treats as you go so they form positive associations with grooming. Puppy Proof Your Home and Garden The process of puppy proofing your home is very much like baby proofing before the arrival of a child. Except a puppy is far more curious, active and destructive and can get themselves into far more trouble. A puppy is a new-born. Everything is a toy and they will run and pounce and jump and chew on anything in their environment. So before you bring your puppy home you simply must make it safe for them. For things you cannot move skirting boards, table legs etc. To keep them safe while still providing an area for them to play in and stretch their legs, you want to restrict their access to a single room, or otherwise create an enclosed space for them. To do so, either buy a pet barrier or baby gate that goes across a doorway to restrict them to an easy to clean and safe room, or buy an exercise pen puppy pen to create an enclosed space in another room. I also strongly recommend buying a crate for many reasons, but initially, mostly just to provide the perfect place for them to sleep. I shall discuss crate training a little later in this article. All of this must be decided BEFORE you get your puppy home because consistency is a key part of raising a puppy successfully. Everyone must enforce and live by the same rules for your puppy to thrive. Initially they have no idea how you want them to behave, or how and when they can expect the things they want and need in life. The more consistent everybody is with the puppy, the quicker they will learn all this stuff and the happier everyone will be. So decide and write down if necessary when your puppy will have all their needs met, make sure everybody knows who is responsible for each task and make sure everybody knows the rules. You might think the collection and journey home with your new puppy is no big deal, but there are many things can go wrong. Therefore, you should never take a puppy before 8 weeks old. During the first 8 weeks, a puppy learns a lot from their mother and litter-mates: Bite inhibition, canine body language, acceptable play and interaction with other dogs and how to accept discipline. Things you will find it very hard to teach them later yourself. The flip side of this is that the 7 to 14 week stage is the most impressionable for a puppy, where they bond strongest with people and must be socialized to all the sights, sounds and smells of the world so they grow up confident and comfortable with their surroundings. So anyway, for the journey home there a few things you need to consider: Safety in the car, the need for water and toilet breaks and the possibility your puppy will be sick. Having a loose puppy in the car presents a very real danger of leading to a crash, they can easily climb out of a box and now is not the time to use a harness and car safety belt. If the crate is small enough you can place it on a front or rear passenger seat and secure it with the seat-belt, or you may have to place it in the trunk of your car. Fully line the crate with absorbent paper in case there are any accidents, this will keep most of the mess off your puppy and make cleaning easier. And finally, place a chew toy or two in the crate to keep your puppy occupied. If you have another person to help you, your puppy can ride home in their lap if the journey is short. They must be under your passengers control. They will also need to potty every half or so. Therefore, you should plan breaks along the way every 30 minutes or so. Stop the car, allow them to drink, then wait for them to wee before setting off again. When you stop, make sure your puppy is on leash and tightly held by someone before letting them out of the car. And as an extra precaution, carry your puppy and only put them down to do their business, then carry them back into the car. Take with you some towels, plastic bags, kitchen roll and deodorizer to take care of any accidents. And when driving, take all corners slowly, and accelerate and brake gently. If your puppy is on a passengers lap, they will be able to see some warning signs that puppy is about to be sick: Their lips will curl, they will excessively salivate and then eventually start to heave. When your passenger spots these signs, they can place a thick towel beneath the puppy to catch everything and avoid a mess in your vehicle. When bringing home a new puppy, make sure you collect them and then drive straight home. Your puppy is having the most stressful day of their short life so far, try not to make it harder than it already is by taking them to strange places and passing them around to strangers to say hello. You want to get them home quickly so they can start the process of settling in as soon as possible. Whether this is inside on paper, or a spot outside, as soon as you arrive home carry them there, set them down and wait for them to do their business before doing anything else. This might take 30 seconds or it might take 10 minutes, but patiently wait and when they go, praise them profusely. Well done! Shut them in another room away from the puppy as things are intense enough as it is. Explain they have to be calm and gentle during the first introductions. Let them sniff and look around, getting used to the area and their new little world. You can now let people come and say hello. Have people sit or kneel to greet them. Once everybody has said hello, you should stay with your puppy, show interest but stay calm. Allow Your Puppy To Sleep After all the excitement, stress, massive change and huge amount of mental stimulation your puppy has just been through, they will likely need to sleep soon after arriving at your home. So as soon as they either start to look tired, or the introductions to their new living space and family have ended whichever comes first put them to bed for a short while. On the other hand they might feel completely overwhelmed, retreat into themselves and show reluctance to explore. They might slink into a corner silently and sit there watching their new world with wonder but apprehension, before falling asleep for hours. And when it comes to the first night they might sleep right through, or they might cry and whine the whole night. As your puppy begins to get used to everything, their character will start to shine through and you will begin to see their true personalities. Exactly what this will be is different for every puppy…it will be fun for you to find out! And by being the provider of everything they need in life, giving them all that is good, it will only take 2 or 3 days for your puppy to learn to love you and get excited and happy to see you when you turn up. So your task is to set up and stick to these schedules, begin training your puppy and help them to learn how you want them to behave and when they can expect the things they need in life. What should you feed your puppy You should feed your puppy the same food they had at the breeders because an abrupt change in diet almost always leads to stomach upset. Complete and balanced means it has everything a puppy needs, and in the right quantities. So seek out this kind of wording and check the internet for other owners reviews. Puppies need to eat a lot because their rate of growth is very high. For puppies up to 12 weeks, you should divide their daily requirement into 4 portions, for puppies 12 to 26 weeks, feed them 3 times per day and from 26 weeks on feed them twice per day. You should also aim to feed them as close as you can to the same times every day and evenly spaced throughout the day. This will help their body clocks fall into a pattern and will help your house training immensely because they then potty the same times every day. For example: 8 to 12 weeks old, 4 times a day at AM, AM, PM and PM 12 to 26 weeks old, 3 times a day at AM, PM and PM 26 weeks old and ongoing, 2 times a day at and Obviously you can adjust these times to take into account when you get out of bed and to fit around your life. Also… The first few nights have the crate or exercise pen your puppy sleeps in placed in your bedroom. One night move the crate next to the bedroom door. The next night move it outside the door, but leave the door open so they can still see you. The next night further into the hallway. Finally to their eventual resting place. They might take to sleeping on their own OK, they might whine and cry. NEVER go to them to comfort them if they cry, you must only get up to take them to potty and then silently and without fuss put them back into the crate. Rewarding silence and ignoring noise is the only way they will eventually learn to be quiet at night themselves. Any time you cannot closely supervise them, you have to confine them, either in their crate, an exercise pen or a puppy proofed room secured with a barrier across the doorway. The point of confining them as a puppy is so they can enjoy all the freedom in the world once they are an adult. By confining them with treat dispensing chew toys they get rewarded for chewing the right things and develop a chew toy obsession. Confine them now, they form a good chew toy obsession and have no chance of developing bad chewing habits. Then once they are over their adolescent chewing stage you slowly open up the house to them and eventually they can have free roam and be completely trusted. A little sacrifice when young for a better life later. And a second hugely important reason for confining your puppy when you cannot supervise them is for speedier house training. In fact if you read my comments from earlier, you will see you start the very first moment you finish the journey home. In essence, house training is about creating good habits while avoiding bad ones and for the speediest success you want to start immediately. Wherever your puppy is able to potty has the chance of becoming their favored toilet spot for many weeks or months to come. So you want to prevent them pottying inside, and encourage them to potty outside. The main ingredients of a successful house training program are preventing mistakes and praising heavily for doing the right thing. Achieving this is all about schedules, supervision and confinement. Now, your puppy will need to potty anywhere from every 15 to 45 minutes. So to start with, take them outside every 30 minutes and adjust this schedule to suit their natural rhythm. You must also take them outside immediately after they wake up from any sleep, after any eating or drinking, after play and after any heightened excitement. These are times that often lead to a puppy needing to potty so take them outside at these times and you will avoid many mistakes while taking advantage of predictable opportunities to praise them for doing the right thing. In the first week or so, you will likely find your puppy almost instantaneously leaks with little warning. Simply do your best to take them out to potty extremely often so they go in the right place as often as possible. And confine them to a single enclosed room or in an exercise pen for the first week or so to protect your carpets. Crate training goes hand in hand with house training, being one of the best tools to help speed up the process. Therefore, you want to start crate training very early on, after just a few days of getting puppy home, and I personally aim for 9 weeks old to start. I prefer to wait a week or so to avoid them pottying in the crate as much as possible, doing the most I can to preserve their instinct not to soil where they sleep, the instinct that helps most when using a crate for house training. But by all means sleep them in their crate at night if you wish and I do. For more information on crate training your puppy and using it for house training purposes, please see the links below:. Vet bedding fleece on a roll is ideal puppy bedding. You can line both his bed and his car crate with this. Buy several pieces so that you can pop one in the washing machine when it gets dirty or if he has an accident. There are lots of lovely beds you can get to go around the house, but in those first days veterinary bedding is an essential alternative to keep his crate cosy and clean. Puppy Toys For Labradors Puppy toys need to be sturdy. Many puppies destroy soft toys quite quickly though they are so adorable, you may not be able to resist buying one or two. Kongs and rope toys are very tough and seem to survive the onslaught of puppy teeth. A Radio If you intend your puppy to sleep alone in the kitchen from the first night, you may find it helpful to leave a radio next to his crate. Just a simple, cheap Portable Radio with the volume turned down low can serve the same role as some human company. It just helps him feel less along during those first few nights when he may be feeling very homesick. Puppy Harness There is no rush for this, but once your puppy is too heavy to carry, and going out and about on the ground, he needs some kind of safety restraint. These days I usually recommend a harness as they avoid pulling on the puppies neck. The kind where the lead attaches at the front and on the back are ideal. You can find an expert review of the big brands of harnesses, from a professional trainer here. When he is older and has learned to walk next to you, you can buy him a collar. To let your puppy know when he has done something you like. It is a really useful tool to help you teach your puppy to be quiet, and to learn simple skills. It will make training your puppy much quicker, easier and a lot more fun. Getting a recall to whistle established at an early age gets your puppy training off to a great start. I recommend the Acme Dog Whistle. There is plenty of information on the use and choice of dog whistles in this article: Should you buy a dog whistle .It will help to get you off to a great start with your new puppy. Rachael Ray Nutrish is another brand I love for Labrador Retriever puppies as it is packed with DHA for healthy brain and eye development and specially formulated for young, growing dogs. You can also select different sizes and recipes. My favorite is chicken and brown rice. Bedding And Toys Lab puppies need quality bedding and toys for teething. Labrador puppies grow quickly and have sharp claws and teeth. Puppies also go through a teething phase and will need special teething toys to help soothe their sore mouths and help keep your furniture safe. As far as bedding, the best bedding for a Labrador puppy is going to be made of high quality material that is soft and plush while also being sturdy enough to keep them off the floor and support their growing bodies. KONG toys are wonderful tools to use during crate training , but they also help with separation anxiety , boredom, and the teething stage that all puppies go through. Enter the Nylabone Puppy Starter Pack. These flavored chew toys come both textured and regular to help get your pup and your furniture through the teething stage safely. Cuddly toys like the Smart PetLove Snuggle Puppy Behavioral Aid Toy above can help your new Labrador puppy adjust to sleeping on his own, assist in crate training, and may even help alleviate anxieties including noise phobias and separation anxiety. Puppy blankets are a must and can be used for multiple purposes in your home for your pup. My favorite puppy blankets are blankets that are specially made for dogs, like the Luciphia fleece blankets above. While you can use any blankets on hand, blankets that are specially made for dogs are usually a bit more durable, easier to wash, and have been made with quality and safe material for your pooch. Puppy blankets just make it easy to always a comfy place for your puppy to rest his head no matter where you are. Ultra Squeaker Ball is an absolute favorite in my house and with my clients. I especially love using this toy for puppies who are just getting the hang of playing fetch. For puppies, picking up on how to play fetch can be tough. Balls that squeak or make noise when thrown help to make the game more exciting and help encourage young pups to chase whatever is making that high pitched sound! Leashes, Harnesses, and Collars Collars, leashes, and harnesses are important tools to help socialize your puppy. Getting your puppy used to wearing a leash, harness, and collar is an important step towards socializing them. So even though your Labrador puppy will outgrow his harness and collar quickly, I still suggest investing in these items. Here are five of my favorite leash, harness, and collar products for Labrador Retriever puppies. As I mentioned above, puppies are especially fragile so steer clear of attaching a leash to their collar and try to help them adjust to wearing a harness that is comfortable. What I like about this harness is that it is adjustable so you can use it a bit longer as your puppy grows. Best of all it is the perfect length five feet for puppy training and is a leash your Lab puppy can take with him into adulthood. It is built like a standard leash, but it offers you control over how far away your puppy can get. This is excellent for puppy parents who live in busy neighborhoods or who are working with a puppy who likes to wander. Large breed puppies like Labrador Retrievers require crates that grow with them. This is why I love crates that come with dividers so that they can grow with your Lab puppy. I also recommend playpens, as Labrador puppies are notorious for being very active and energetic. Lab puppies are also incredibly curious and tend to chew a lot in their first few months, which is why indoor dog gates will also be an important part of puppy proofing your home. Take a look at some of my favorite puppy-proofing products below. Nobody likes cleaning up potty accidents. Of course, no one wants a big, bulky pen that takes up half of their home either! I also love that the pen is big enough for puppies to grow into and allows them to learn how to explore a space larger than their crate while keeping them and your home safe from their curiosity. And since crate training is such an important part of puppyhood and actually helps your puppy adjust to being alone and feeling secure, we recommend investing in a good, high quality crate you can use for years. It has two separate doors for entrance and exit and it comes with a divider so it can be adjusted to the size of your dog as he grows. Just remember to leave your pup inside his crate with a KONG and some bedding so he is comfortable, and remember that puppies who are younger than six months old should not stay in their crates for longer than four hours. For those of you who plan to leave your puppy out and about while you are gone and after he is trained, of course , then a crate that folds may be your best bet. The MidWest Foldable Dog Crate posted above is one such crate that is not only made well, but also stores well. Like most crates ideal for Labrador puppies, this crate also comes with a divider so it can grow with your dog. Along with crates and puppy playpens, you also might consider getting a gate to keep your puppy from entering places in your home that may pose a risk to him. Many of my clients keep gates up in their kitchen entryway, or gate their living rooms where puppies are tempted to chew on wood furniture. Richell Wood Freestanding Pet Gate Sale Buy on Amazon For those of you worried about installing something or accidentally damaging walls or paint, there are always free-standing gate options, like the Richell Wood Freestanding Pet Gate. I do like the way these gates look and the simplicity of them, however, they are not always the most secure and may not stand up to a strong and curious puppy. These gates are also not ideal for leaving puppies unsupervised as they can sometimes find ways to knock them down. Grooming your Labrador puppy early on not only helps to socialize him and prepare him for a life of vet visits, groomer visits, and physical contact with people, but it also helps to keep him clean and healthy. Like babies, puppies are more sensitive to certain products and require products that are specifically designed to be gentle on their sensitive skin and fur. Be selective of the shampoos, dog brushes , and other grooming products you pick for your Labrador puppy and make sure you always use high-quality products. Some of the products I recommend most for grooming a Labrador puppy are listed below. Pet Care Sciences Puppy Shampoo. Non-slip bottom dog dishes Puppies naturally move their dish around as they are eating, especially if the dish has a flat bottom that easily pushes around the floor. We have found that dishes with a non-slip bottom can help so that your puppy is not chasing around his food dish. Make sure that it is large enough. And since dogs grow fast, that means they will likely grow to that size within a year to a year and a half. Almost all dogs we train eat between 4 -6 cups of dog food a day. So, make sure that your dish is large enough to accommodate this many cups. Water dish It is vitally important that your puppy have access to clean water for drinking. With the puppies we raise, we have found that it can be challenging to keep a small water dish full, so we prefer to use these 2-gallon water dishes. They are easy to fill and allow us to only have to fill them a couple times a week instead of several times a day. We suggest that you introduce a lead to your puppy as they start to grow in confidence and walk further from you when outside. There are two great reasons to do this early on. First it teaches your puppy how to handle the pressure of not being able to go wherever they want whenever they want. And it keeps your puppy from developing a habit of running away from you. A Flexi-lead works especially well if you want to give your puppy a little more freedom to go do his potty business but still keep control. Toys Puppies need toys. If you do not give them toys that they CAN chew and play with, they will chew on your sofa leg, or a book or a blanket or anything else they can find. So, purchase some good durable puppy chew toys. But watch your pup carefully. As they get older and stronger, they will be able to rip apart cloth toys and ingest them. Or they will chew rubber toys into small pieces and eat them. When your pup gets strong enough to destroy toys, it is time to take away the puppy toys and give them only dog toys designed for older , larger dogs or quality rawhides that they can chew that will not cause digestive problems. Stay away from rope toys. Many puppies have managed to ingest strings and ropes requiring surgery to remove them. Puppy-sized bumper If your plan is for your Labrador puppy to become a hunting or competition dog, you should have a puppy sized bumper. Learn more about teaching your puppy to fetch in this post. Barriers I recommend that you section off a small portion of your home and not let your puppy have full run of the entire house. Learn more about housebreaking your Lab puppy in this post. To section off a part, it can be helpful to have some child-gates available or an area of your home that you can close doors. This means that you need to show your puppy where the boundaries are and what is and is not allowed. To do this, you will need a few more tools. This is often when we see dogs that are running away from their owners, playing keep-a-way when retrieving and just basically being naughty. A lot of this could be avoided with the use of a check cord. Yes, a check cord can be cumbersome and often a pain to use, but it only takes one or two times of your puppy running away from you to make it worth it. Put a check cord on your puppy and allow them to drag it around with them. This alone is a great lesson for a dog. Dragging the weight is a type of pressure that they will need to learn to deal with. Occasionally, step on the rope and allow your dog to feel the pressure of being stopped and controlled. These sound like such minor things, but you would be surprised how much more well-adjusted your puppy will be just from learning these minor lessons. Chain or prong collar As your puppy gets stronger, it will get more and more difficult to control your puppy with a lead just hooked up to a nylon collar. As you notice that your puppy is getting harder to control, is pulling you around or dragging you down the street, you need to move to a chain or prong collar. Actually, it would be best if you changed to a chain or prong collar long before this becomes an issue. Remember, it is always easier to fix problems when they are small rather than waiting for them to become huge problems. Larger bumpers for retrieving dogs As your dog gets larger, you will want to move away from the puppy bumper and start using regular sized retrieving bumpers. We prefer to use plastic or rubber bumpers since they do not get as dirty or smelly as the canvas ones. They also last a lot longer and can be used for both water and land retrieves. Learn all about the different bumpers used for training hunting dogs here. Orange is a color that is difficult for retrievers to see, so that color should not be used for young dogs that are just learning about retrieving and hunting. Save the orange ones for advanced dogs working on blind retrieves. Final thoughts on What do I need to buy for a Lab puppy? There are many things that you will need for your new puppy both now and in the future. Take some time to prepare before you bring your puppy home so that you will avoid buying things on impulse that you may or may not need. If you are planning on using your puppy as a hunting or competition dog, check out 6 vital tools every gun dog trainer needs. You can email me at ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time happy retrieving. What do I need to buy for a Lab puppy? The crate which we suggest is foldable which makes it extra convenient. Dogs are naturally den animals and a crate provides them with a place where they can relax and feel safe. Crate training and choosing the right size Crate training makes toilet training a million times easier, and keeps your puppy safe at night whilst the family is asleep. The best puppy crate is one which is big enough for them to stand up, stretch out, turn around and lie down in. But no bigger. Or by buying an adult sized crate which comes with a divider, to allow you to provide the correct amount of space for your growing puppy. Bedding You will of course also need bedding to line the crate. This fake fleecy fur bedding comes in a roll and you can either buy a piece to fit your crate or cut to it to size yourself. For puppies, you should avoid any dog bed with a fancy liner and a stuffed or padded interior. Your pup will probably rip it open and eat the contents in no time. Check out our indestructible dog bed article for some great inspiration. Food is obviously the most important item on your new puppy supplies list. Puppy Food To start with, your new pup will need to eat three to four times a day. Having a supply of the new brand ready will allow you to make this changeover from the old food to the new, before the old runs out. The best puppy food is one which is low in carbohydrates and high in protein. Puppy Bowls Next up on the new puppy supplies list are their food and water bowls. Most of them are dishwasher safe, and cheap to buy. You can have a couple in the cupboard, making it easy to keep the food bowl shiny and clean between meals. The downside of the usual stainless steel food bowls is that they can tip over, not to mention the horrendous noise as the puppy chases them around the kitchen! To avoid these disadvantages, find a non-slip version with a steadier bottom. Those designed for use by dogs and puppies. Ceramic water bowls help to keep the water cool as well. The best part of getting a new pup is the fun you have playing with them — and for this puppy toys are real Labrador essentials! Between 12 to 24 weeks your pup will be losing their baby teeth and their new teeth will be emerging. This is a very uncomfortable time for you pup — the reason why they chew everything in their path. You can protect your shoes, furniture , and even cables, by making sure that they have plenty of toys to chew instead. Puppy toys are fun to buy, and there are a lot of choices out there. We have a couple of real firm favorites when it comes to puppy toys. Puppy kongs are brilliant. Kongs bounce around and can be played with if your pup feels like it, or picked up and carried around. Just make sure that the rope is thick and not easily shredded. Be sure to avoid small toys, or those with small parts that can be chewed off, that your pup can swallow. They can cause choking or blockages in their bellies. Besides being too small, the toys in your puppy supplies should also not be too big. They should be able to get their mouths around their toys easily. Having to stretch to chew on or pick up toys or bones that are too big can injure their growing jaws. Collar and leash You should introduce your pup to their dog collar and leash as soon as possible. They can get used to wearing their collar in the house from a young age, before going outside for walks. It has a convenient quick release buckle as well as an ID tag. Dog harnesses, instead of collars, are becoming increasingly popular among dog lovers. Always use a harness for a dog that has problems breathing. It also has a thick padded handle to protect your hands. A pup might still squirm and try to get away. Then you can start brushing again. Letting your pup inspect and sniff the brush also helps them to get over any fear. This specialised pet brush has fine bent wires that gets rid of mats without hurting. Amongst the most useful Lab puppy essentials on our new puppy checklist are puppy barriers. There are a few options for creating barriers, to keep your pup safe and give them some space when they need a break. The most popular puppy barriers are actually baby gates. They make fantastic human toddler and puppy barriers — you might even use them to separate the two. They come in a few different sizes, and fit into most doorways or hallway spaces. The human members of the family can easily come and go, whilst keeping the puppy securely contained. You can start using it with your pup from a very young age. Combined with treats, they let the pup know exactly when you approve of their behavior. Their use is rapidly increasing in popularity. Using positive reinforcement training and working with a clicker will help you to both train your puppy, and to form a stronger bond and better relationship together as he grows. Almost last but not least on our new puppy checklist is puppy insurance. There have been astonishing advances in the veterinary treatments that are available for our pets today. Most things you can be treated for, your dog can be treated for too. Open heart surgery, complex hip operations, and advanced cancer treatments are all available to dogs. Read The Small Print And do read the small print before you buy, some of the cheaper policies will dump you at the end of the year if your dog gets a long term condition. I did not read the small print and this happened to me. So take care to choose a policy that keeps on renewing as long as you keep on paying. Many dog owners would recommend the final Labrador puppy accessory on our new puppy checklist as the most essential. Covering everything from the first days at home, through crate training, potty training, dealing with teething and much more. Do you have any tips for our readers? Are there other items that you wish you had bought before your Labrador puppy arrived and would add to our puppy supplies list? Why not share your thoughts in the comments section below. However, we selected them for inclusion independently, and all of the views expressed in this article are our own. These sprays are safe for your dog, and the bitter taste discourages chewing. In many cases, chewing can be kept under control with training, positive reinforcement, and mental and physical stimulation. However, some puppies and dogs will try to chew no matter what, making these products quite useful. Conclusion The list of products that could be useful to your life with a Labrador could go on all day, but these products are some of the most important. Keep in mind that any new pet needs a checkup with your veterinarian to verify they are healthy and up to date on things like vaccines, heartworm testing, and dewormers. One pet supply that you may not have thought of is pet insurance. With a balanced, personalized plan like Spot Pet Insurance offers, you may be able to manage your pet's vet costs and avoid surprises. A Canadian expat, Nicole now lives on a lush forest property with her Kiwi husband and new baby daughter in New Zealand. She has a strong love for all animals of all shapes and sizes and particularly loves a good interspecies friendship and wants to share her animal knowledge and other experts' knowledge with pet lovers across the globe.Read more Advertisement.

She graduated from the University of Glasgow in with a degree in veterinary medicine and surgery. She has worked at the same animal clinic in her hometown for over 20 years. There are 10 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. This article has been viewed , times. Labrador retrievers are an adorable and popular dog breed that can make a great addition to your household. Aside from a physical examination, you can do a professional DNA test on the dog to check its genetic makeup. All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Does the fur appear short, and have a thick texture? The AKC advocates for the responsible ownership of dogs and promotes purebred dog events, such as the Westminster Dog Show. Did you know? There are silver labs, but silver is not an acceptable color in the breed standard as this color is believed to have come from a cross with the Weimaraner. However, dogs with this coat color may still be registered with certain kennel clubs. If the dog is a yellow or black lab, check that the puppy has brown eyes. In the case of chocolate labs, check for brown or hazel eyes. Check to see how long its legs are; while a Labrador should have longer legs than a Dachshund, its legs should be shorter than a Husky. Purchase a dog genetics test, which will give you a specialized testing kit. Some DNA tests will look for genetic markers, while cheaper tests focus more on the different breeds. Tip: Try to keep the puppy from sharing food or playing rough with the other dogs, as this might hurt the integrity of the saliva sample. Package the saliva sample according to the instructions given by the company. Seal the envelope or package carefully, so the sample is completely secure while it travels to the lab. Generally, you can find the test results listed by breed, followed by a percentage; however, this might differ, depending on the company. If this is possible, use a cotton swab to collect saliva samples from 1 or both parents. Store these samples carefully, so you can send them to a professional company. Seal the envelope or package carefully to secure the sample, and keep it safe in transit. Go to source Seeing a CH or confirmation champion title on the pedigree certificate means that the dog is close to the ideals in the breed standard and is related to a dog that was able to win over other dogs at a show with at least 15 conformation points. Go to source A dog with this lineage can make a great candidate for showing. If your dog has documented parentage with the American Kennel Club, you can search their database and purchase a certificate that affirms this. You can also register your dog through the American Kennel Club once you have proof of their pedigree. Go to source Fees for pedigrees very depending on the type. Purebred dogs can be identified in three possible ways: Can you tell by looking? Purebred dog characteristics are not a certainty when it comes to identification. I have a steady stream of people coming to my forum, posting questions in the comments boxes at the foot of my articles, and writing emails to ask: is my dog purebred? The question is very often accompanied by photographs, or detailed descriptions of the characteristics of the dog. A visual assessment is what most of my readers are hoping I will give them when they send me photographs. So what exactly is a visual assessment of a purebred Labrador? Purebred Dog Characteristics A visual assessment of pedigree involves looking at a dog and comparing his appearance with the breed standard. This involves a detailed knowledge of the breed standard. Purebred Lab Breed Standard Breed standards vary slightly from one country to the next. So, here, we will just be focusing on the AKC breed standard. This standard says that a purebred Labrador Retriever should weigh between 55 and 80 pounds, growing to between .The three recognized colors are yellow, black, and chocolate. But, yellow is accepted in a variety of shades. Dilute colors and mismarks can be AKC registered but are disqualified from the show ring. I want to give you a couple of examples to illustrate the problems involved with this approach. She has a thin, whippy tail with an upwards curve, overlong ears and a long narrow face. These features, combined with her ginger coat mean that very few people recognize her as a Labrador at all. I have been asked if she is a Vizsla cross, a Lab x Greyhound, and other unlikely combinations. In fact this purebred Labrador Retriever has an impeccable pedigree full of noble ancestors with famous names. But if someone made a visual assessment from a photo of her, unless they were familiar with working line Labs, they might well put her down as a crossbreed. The father is a show line lab, and his looks have dominated in this particular dog. A visual assessment would wrongly put him in the purebred category when he is actually no such thing. Mixed breeds like this can inherit any blend of traits from their parents. Are Visual Assessments Any Good? I hope you can see from these examples how worthless visual assessments usually are. While I can point out that your dog may have faults that will eliminate him from the show ring, I cannot possibly tell you whether or not he is purebred by looking at him. Purebred Dog Colors Can you tell if you have a purebred black Lab or a purebred chocolate Lab from their color alone? Unfortunately the answer here is no. So, a mixed breed could easily have a solid coat in one of these colors. Do purebred Labs have white on them? The current Labrador breed standard is very clear on what a purebred Labrador should look like. But not all Labradors meet that standard. But equally a mismark can occur in purebred Labrador Retriever puppies too. Common Lab Mismarkings Big white chest patches are fairly common in mismarked Labs. It is even possible to get a purebred Labrador with tan points like a rottweiler or patches of brindle fur. These types of puppies are genetic accidents and the puppies are usually sold as pets to owners who appreciate their unusual friend. Purebred Dog Pedigree Papers If you buy a purebred dog, the breeder should give you the registration document with the names of both parents. Most breeders will also give you a copy of the pedigree which lists the ancestors of those parents, together with any titles they may have, back through five generations. Pedigree Papers Have Limitations If you have the correct pedigree papers, then your puppy is probably a purebred dog. I say probably because there is room for dishonesty with this system. It is possible for a dishonest stud dog owner to mate his female dog to one stud dog and register the puppies to another. Which brings us to our final method, DNA identification. There are various laboratories offering this service. The laboratory will examine the sample you send in. This greatly reduces the chances of your dog being cross bred. Ask to see the registration documents! Do not accept any excuses, your breeder must have registered the litter in order for you to be able to register your puppy. Meet the mother and make sure that you like the way she looks. There is always another litter. Let someone else who loves unusual markings buy that puppy. It is possible to find a purebred black Lab with white markings, or a purebred chocolate Lab with brindling. After Buying Your Purebred Puppy Once you have purchased your puppy try not to worry about whether or not he is purebred. Remember that many purebred dogs have mismarks or poor conformation, so if you have pedigree papers for him, he is probably purebred no matter what he looks like. Try to ignore any other people that criticize your purebred dog, or try to convince you he is not a purebred. After all, the most important thing is that your dog is happy, healthy, and a great addition to your family.

They include: Birth to 4 weeks 6 weeks to 3 or 4 months old 3 to 6 months of age 8 months old and beyond Each stage requires different care and may be shorter or longer than the one before it. Knowing the details of your Labradoodles teething can help you navigate this time with them. Your Labradoodles teething stage can begin as early as three months of age and may last up to seven months. The first set of teeth take anywhere from three to four weeks to come in fully. Puppies do not need teeth at this time since they get all of the nutrition they need from nursing with their mom. This set contains only 28 teeth and does not include any molars since those teeth are permanent and come in later. As these teeth appear, it can be painful for the puppy, and they will look for anything to chew to help relieve the pressure of emerging teeth. This first set of teeth are quite pointy and can be painful if your pup bites you while playing. Thankfully, these sharp little teeth do not stick around for long. A puppy can begin losing the first set as early as a month after they emerge. As the next set of teeth start emerging, they will push these baby teeth out. So, typically, your dog will lose its incisors first, with the others quickly following. You may find puppy teeth around your home, but often a Labradoodle will swallow them while playing or eating. It is not harmful to a dog to eat its first set of teeth, and you may not even notice when your pet loses these teeth. Your Labradoodle will not have tooth gaps like human children do when their teeth fall out. They can still chew their food and treats without problems. Nearing six months of age, your dog should have their second set of teeth almost entirely. A veterinarian will typically check their teeth at each checkup appointment for any crooked ones, underbites, or other jaw issues that may be a concern. Your Labradoodle should have 42 adult teeth at this time. The entire teething process can take up to the age of 10 or 12 months to complete. A Red Miniature Labradoodle looks happy in the studio. Signs of Teething in Your Labradoodle This teething guide uses approximate timelines as a reference. Each dog is individual, and its teeth may come in or fall out at different times than this outline. If you are unsure if your Labradoodle is teething, there are some tell-tale signs , including: Chewing on everything Spots of blood on toys or food Swollen or red gum tissue Change in appetite Excessive whining Finding teeth around your home One concern some dog owners have is when their puppy does not lose this first set on schedule. How To Help Your Teething Labradoodle You can help your puppy deal with this teething transition with various methods. By providing your Labradoodle with ways to curb tooth pain, there will be less damage to your belongings, and your pup will be happier. Try some of these methods with your teething Labradoodle: Use special puppy teething gel Provide durable chewing treats, like Bully Sticks Give them frozen treats to chew on Ensure they have numerous types of toys for chewing Puppy Teething Gel No products found. Some dog owners prefer to use a teething gel for added relief. Be sure to choose a product for your puppy that does not contain any unsafe ingredients. Durable Chewing Treats Finding durable chewing treats like Bully Sticks can be a terrific way for your pet to help relieve the pressure on its gum tissue. Many Labradoodles will prefer to chew on a tasty treat rather than your smelly shoes when given the option. Frozen Treats Many human foods are entirely safe for your puppy to have. Carrots are one of these items in your fridge that can help provide some relief to your Labradoodle while they are teething. You can offer a raw cold carrot to your pup straight from your fridge or freeze them for extra relief. Remember to monitor your Labradoodle during this time to make sure they do not choke on any large pieces that may break off. Toys For Chewing You can find dozens of special toys that can help your pup with any chewing habits. From durable Kong toys to braided rope toys , each material can provide a different benefit. It is always better to have several toys for them rather than your puppy looking for something in your home to chew on. You should be preparing a regular oral hygiene routine from the first time you bring your new Labradoodle puppy home. Once they are comfortable with the attention in their mouth, you can brush their teeth with a toothbrush without any paste. By doing this, your pup will become accustomed to having you put a brush in their mouth. Eventually, you can work towards using a special dog toothpaste to help keep their teeth clean and healthy throughout their lifetime. With proper oral care, you can minimize any issues your Labradoodle may have later on in life. A Labradoodle sits on a couch next to a Pomeranian. Teething In Labradoodle Puppies Will Not Last Forever Although it may seem like your Labradoodle puppy will be teething forever, they will have all of their adult teeth in before you know it. This challenging time can be hard on you and your dog as its first set of teeth fall out and the permanent ones come in. By remembering the many stages of a teething puppy, you will have a better idea of how to help your new pet. My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More. Puppies use their mouths to explore their environment and learn about the world. The benefits of appropriate chewing The teething process typically starts when puppies are 3 months old. You can expect your Labradoodle puppy to be teething until the adult molars come in at 6 to 7 months of age. Chewing is a natural instinct that facilitates teething and soothes sore gums. Your puppy may also enjoy chewing for fun, or to alleviate boredom. Try different items and see what your puppy enjoys the most. Your puppy cannot tell the difference between old and new. You can also put a wet towel in the freezer and give it to your puppy to alleviate teething pain. You will need to teach your puppy to only chew on certain items. Pick up or secure any inappropriate items your puppy might chew on. This includes clothes, shoes, papers, trash, and electronic devices. Keep in mind that most spray deterrents have to be reapplied frequently to maintain effectiveness. Supervising your puppy Always keep an eye on your puppy in the house. Despite your best efforts, your puppy will probably find something inappropriate to chew on. If you see your puppy chewing on an inappropriate item, interrupt the behavior and give your puppy a chew toy. Praise your puppy for taking it. You can only correct the behavior if you catch your puppy in the act. Your puppy will not associate the punishment with the act. Never yell at or hit your puppy under any circumstances. Management and supervision is the key to success These simple tips can help you prevent destructive chewing. Always remember to be patient with your puppy. In time, your puppy will learn to understand the rules and grow into a well-behaved adult Labradoodle. Your puppies will not grow any teeth in the first 2 weeks. At this stage, puppies will start nursing. Their eyes will be open in the first two weeks. You should start socialization your puppy at this time for effective future training. The first vet visit should also be planned in this period. Weeks 2 to 4 In the second and third weeks, the first narrow-edged tooth incisors begin to appear. Dogs generally have 12 incisor teeth, six at the top and six at the bottom. In the third to the fifth week, canine teeth the pointy teeth begin to appear, which are four in total, two at the top and two at the bottom Weeks 5 to 8 Dogs generally have 6 premolars, three at the top and three at the bottom. Premolars begin to appear from the fifth to six weeks. At the age of 8 weeks, your beloved puppy should have a complete set of milk teeth. Puppies typically have 28 baby teeth in total. Around this time, the breeder will likely already be or will be in the process of weaning the puppies while they learn to eat soft, moist puppy food. Weeks 12 to 16 As your puppy grows after 8 weeks, adult teeth start to come out and baby teeth start to fall out. The sequence of the loss of baby teeth in puppies is as follows: First, the incisors fall out around 12 to 16 weeks Canine teeth will fall out around 16 weeks Pre-molars will fall out around 24 weeks The fall out process of baby teeth begins when the permanent teeth begin to appear because permanent teeth begin pushing out deciduous or milk teeth. This process is painful for your beloved puppies, so you should provide puppy safe chew toys. At the age of weeks, the adult incisors begin to appear. Adult canines also begin to appear this time. This is the best time to socialize your puppy. You should closely look and touch the inside and outside of his mouth, and prepare your puppy to brush his teeth. At the age of 8 months, the puppy must have a complete set of adult teeth that are 42 in number: 12 incisors, 4 canines, 16 premolars, and 10 molars. Below is the dental formula for the milk teeth and permanent teeth of the dog. Permanent teeth are the teeth that your dog will have for the rest of its life. It turns out that you may not find your lost puppy teeth at all. Often times, the puppy swallows his own teeth. How to Survive Puppy Teething? When your puppy starts teething and sheds his old teeth, this process is very painful and uncomfortable for your puppy. What you can do in this situation is a very important question. You can make this phase comfortable by following these simple steps. The first line of defense for a teething puppy is bully sticks, and they are pretty much the ultimate chew toy. You must also offer your puppy safe chewy toys made of rubber. For puppy teething, we love the West Paw Zogoflex that you can stuff with either food or a bully stick. If you want to make it even more interesting for your puppy, consider also getting a Large version as it will allow you to fasten them together and make a sealed container filled with treats. The puppy needs to get used to the dental care system. Gently touch his mouth and rub the gums and teeth. You can also use the specially designed dog toothpaste. Retained baby teeth must be extracted by a veterinarian so that permanent teeth have room to grow. Sometimes a crowded mouth with a double set of teeth misaligns them, resulting in difficulty eating or poor dental hygiene, which can lead to periodontal disease. Teething Problems You should regularly check your puppy mouth during the teething process and look for these signs such as swelling, rubbing of face and change in eating habits. There are several ways that dogs use their teeth: Incisors Teeth Dogs use incisors to tear and scrape flesh from bones. It is also used as a tool to care for nibbles or dirt from fur. Canine Teeth These pointy canine teeth can inflict puncture and sharp wounds. Premolar and Molar Teeth Premolars and molars are designed for crushing. These are used to process vegetable, dog food , and bone. Carnassial teeth are innovations for carnivores that require cutting action to process meat. You should properly care for your beloved dog in this process and schedule a visit with your vet for an initial dental exam. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. Does teething make puppies ill or aggressive? Puppy teething can make biting worse , but your puppy also bites in play and he needs to learn to be gentle with his mouth. Chewing is also a natural behavior for teething puppies. It also helps the puppy to shed those teeth that are loose and ready to come out. As well as suggested toys for teething puppies. How long does puppy teething last? With human babies, we tend to associate teething with sleepless nights and grumpy infants. With puppies, our concerns tend to focus more on biting and destructive chewing behavior. How many teeth do dogs have as adults? Labradors are lucky. Unlike some modern dogs breeds, they have a full sized jaw bone with plenty of room for their teeth. Most adult labs have a beautifully designed set of forty-two teeth. This is a perfect mouthful for crushing bones and for ripping and tearing up meat! Just like people, dogs can have problems with their teeth. Tooth decay is common and teeth can get broken. Usually this is one of the premolars that sit between the long canine tooth, and the big molars at the back of the mouth. How many teeth does a Labrador puppy have? Like human babies, Labrador puppies are born without teeth. And, like human babies the first set of deciduous baby teeth are lost during infancy. These are replaced by bigger, stronger grown up teeth. This means your puppy will only have twenty-eight teeth until he cuts his grown up ones. When do Labrador puppies start teething? That first stage in the teething process involves the cutting of the first teeth through the sealed gum. In addition, this phase is pretty much over once you collect your puppy at eight weeks old. When do puppy teeth fall out? At this stage your pup loses his baby teeth and replaces them with permanent grown up ones. Loss of baby teeth begins after the puppy is three months old. The chewing may help to relieve the discomfort in his gums, but you need to watch him carefully. Make sure he is not swallowing bits of blanket or toys that have come apart. Some people claim that their puppies are more irritable during teething but I have not personally found this to be the case. How do puppies lose their teeth? Once the root is fully reabsorbed, the tooth becomes loose and is easily knocked out when the puppy eats or chews his toys. However, his gums may be a bit irritated or sore. But a word of caution before you rush out to buy some. Puppy teething gels Understandably, some people want to use puppy teething gels. However, we recommend you have a chat with your vet before using puppy teething gels. As opinions vary as to whether or not gels are effective or even harmful. You might also come across a cracked tooth. This may need to be seen to by a vet to avoid the risk of infection. Infection can be quite painful. It simply means he has knocked one of his loose teeth out a bit roughly, before it was quite ready to fall out. Most of the time, your puppy probably swallows his baby teeth along with his dinner, or while playing. You may occasionally find a baby tooth, which you can keep as a memento, but they are tiny and quite hard to spot! What are the best chew toys for teething puppies? Without doubt, the most useful toys you can buy your teething puppy are Kongs. You need to fill the hollow center with mushy food and freeze them. Your puppy can then spend up to half an hour of bliss removing the frozen contents. This soothes his mouth and relieves boredom another common cause of chewing. You can buy lots of other chew toys but I find these to be the best. When will my puppy stop teething? Many puppies will be done with teething by about seven months and almost all puppies will have a full set of adult teeth at eight months old. This is because there are reasons other than teething for the enthusiastic chewing that so many Labradors seem to have. Does teething cause diarrhea or fevers? There are a great many claims for the effects of teething in children, from fevers to rashes and upset tummies. These claims, tend to be associated with that first stage in teething. In other words when the baby goes from no teeth at all, to a set of deciduous teeth. This stage is over in puppies before you bring your own puppy home. Over the next few months, your pup will lose his baby teeth and grow his adult replacements. This is the equivalent of what happens to older school-aged children, not what happens in human babies. If in doubt contact your vet In addition to this, there is little or no evidence to suggest that teething causes anything other than teeth in puppies. It is really important not to delay veterinary attention to small puppies that are not well. A small, sick puppy can become seriously ill very quickly. However, there are problems that puppies can have with their teeth. The first is to do with the structure of the jaw. The second is to do with the position of the teeth as they grow through the jaw. If you are looking for a puppy to raise as a working retriever, or for the show ring, this is something worth checking for. Sometimes teeth that look slightly misaligned will level out when the adult teeth come through, and vice versa. Periodontal Disease is a common and sometimes severe problem in dogs. Just like in human, dental hygiene is important in dogs! Have your puppy checked by your vet if you think he still has some deciduous teeth left in his mouth at six months old. Retained baby teeth can impede the growth of the adult teeth and cause problems for your puppy later on. The power of puppy teeth Despite a lack of molars puppies still have powerful jaws and very sharp teeth. From an early age, puppies are learning to harness that power and not to use it when playing or interacting with other dogs and people. This is a process called bite inhibition. Does teething cause biting in puppies Puppies tend to bite a lot when they are teething. But the teething itself is not the only cause. However, biting and growling is an important part of puppy play, that is often mistaken for aggression. Small puppies often bite too hard because the process of bite inhibition that we talked about earlier is not complete. They have learned how hard to bite their furry litter-mate and mother, but not how hard to bite on human skin. Teaching this is one of your roles. But once his adult teeth come through, it is a different story. His permanent teeth have to last him the rest of his life. For example, he may break a tooth. Therefore, he must be happy to have his mouth examined. This is something you can start when he is really small. Get him used to having his lips lifted up, and his teeth examined now, using food as a reward. We have all heard horror stories of ruined slippers, destroyed books, and chewed-up table legs, but if you are armed with the knowledge of the teething process and some teething survival tips, your story can have a happy ending. So, for how long do Labradoodle puppies teethe? The entire teething process can take as long as 7 months. It typically begins at 3 weeks of age, when their puppy teeth first start to appear. During the third month, their gums begin to absorb the roots of puppy teeth, making them loose. The puppy teeth are soon pushed out as the adult teeth erupt. By 8 months, most Labradoodles have all of their permanent adult teeth. The term teething, when referring to human babies, usually refers to the time period when baby teeth are pushing up through the gums for the first time. However, when teething is used in reference to puppies, it usually refers to the process of losing the puppy teeth to make room for the permanent teeth. You will save you time, money, and loads of frustration…take my word for it! This allows the mother to nurse her litter comfortably. As is the case with people, this first set of teeth act as placeholders, permitting the puppies to eat solid food until the permanent teeth are ready to come in. Approximately one month later, the second stage of teething begins. Over the course of 5 — 6 months, one by one, the puppy teeth are pushed out by the emerging permanent teeth. This is the time when the strong urge to chew can become a problem for puppies and their owners. The second stage of teething is an ideal time to teach your puppy what is and what is not okay to put in his mouth. Instead, give them a chew toy and praise them for chewing that toy instead. Being diligent in this area now will establish good behavior in the future. This makes it much easier for the tooth to fall out at the right time and prevents the puppy from being in any pain. The actual loss of teeth begins with the incisors which tend to fall out when the puppy is between 12 — 16 weeks old. Next, are the canine teeth at around 16 weeks. Last, are the premolars at around week .Did you know that puppy teeth do not include any molars? Molars are only a part of the permanent set of teeth. You can read more about Labradoodles losing their puppy teeth, here. In fact, there is a chance you will not even be aware that one has fallen out until you notice that an adult tooth has already taken its place. Puppies have no control over where and when their little needles — I mean puppy teeth — fall out, so you might find them anywhere around your home. One might be found embedded in a favorite chew toy or left behind in his food bowl. Deciduous teeth can be lost while your puppy is chewing on toys or your new pair of shoes , chowing down on food, or while running around the backyard at playtime. Occasionally, if a tooth falls out while he is busy with one of these activities, the tooth might be swallowed. There is no cause for alarm as this is perfectly normal, and the tooth should pass through his system without any problems. It is the adult teeth that are responsible for literally pushing the puppy teeth out. By the time that a puppy tooth is lost, a new permanent tooth is already making its way to the surface of the gum. Labradoodle puppies should have permanent incisors in place between 3 — 5 months of age. Adult canine teeth and the premolars make their appearance sometime between months 4 — 6. The molars are typically last to erupt and are usually in place between months .Discovering that your sweet little dog has destroyed the legs of the kitchen table can certainly ruin your day and hurt your wallet. Disasters like this can be largely avoided by offering your puppy a variety of chewing options. Keeping your puppy in a crate when you are not around will give you some peace of mind, knowing that your puppy is safe and, therefore, so are your belongings. Here are some other ideas to help both you and your pup survive the chewing phase. Most pet supply stores offer some sort of teething gel that can provide your puppy some relief. A Kong Puppy Teething Stick can not only soothe sore gums but can also help clean teeth as well. An inexpensive option is to freeze a healthy treat like a carrot. You can also try freezing a rolled-up old wet washcloth. This can really help soothe their gums and can easily be re-frozen and reused. There are many chew toys, like a Puppy Chew Bone , that are designed specifically for teething puppies. Try to provide a variety for your puppy to choose from. One that is soft, one that is hard, and a crunchy one are good choices. Rope tug-of-war toys are great for puppies to chew on and provide lots of fun when you join in the game too. The sooner, the better. The ideal time is 8 — 12 weeks old. Accustoming your dog now can save you some trouble in the future. How many teeth do Labradoodles have? After all the puppy teeth have fully emerged, a Labradoodle puppy will have a total of 28 which is eight more than a human baby has. An adult dog will have 42 permanent teeth while an adult person can only boast 32 if the wisdom teeth have been removed. Things to Remember Having a teething puppy does not have to be a nightmare. The natural process of acquiring permanent teeth can go quite smoothly if you know what to expect when to expect it, and how to properly deal with all of that chewing. Be patient with your Labradoodle puppy, because before you know it, he will be all grown up. Related Posts:. And those sharp little puppy teeth of theirs sometimes find their way to your fingers, toes, and even your clothes. So, when do Labradoodle puppies start to lose their teeth? They typically begin losing their puppy teeth around 3 to 4 months old. As the teeth fall out, they will be replaced by your puppies permanent adult teeth. All of their puppy teeth should be gone by 6 months. If puppy teeth still remain at 6 months, be sure to consult with your Veterinarian. Puppy Teething Timeline 3 weeks old — Baby teeth start coming in. So sometimes they will actually eat their teeth unknowingly. There is a significant link between dental health and the overall health of your pup. So good dental care for your Labradoodle puppy should begin as early in his life as possible. This is not to say you should begin brushing his teeth at the first sign of baby teeth in his mouth. We recommend brushing your puppies teeth from the moment you bring them home; usually around 8 weeks. This is the puppy brushing kit I started with. Here are some basic dog brushing tips: Use a canine toothbrush with soft bristles. These are the ones I use. Replace the toothbrush when bristles are frayed or about every 3 months. Brush at least 3 times per week, daily is optimal. Always end the session with praise and a treat. Try putting a healthy treat like peanut butter on your finger. Allow him to lick it while you gently rub his gums and teeth. Get him used to having his muzzle and mouth touched. Put one hand on the top of this mouth and one on the bottom and leave them there for a few seconds. Their Teeth and Gums Once he gets used to that, gently separate his lips and open his mouth. Time To Brush Here are some tips to get the tooth brushing process going as easy as possible. When first starting, allow your puppy to smell and lick the toothbrush and toothpaste before you begin. Start with just the front teeth at first. Start by brushing only a couple of teeth at a time. When the puppy accepts that, increase the number of teeth. Reapply toothpaste when needed. If your puppy happens to like the flavor of the toothpaste, he may eat it rather quickly. Brush in a circular motion along the gum line where bacteria and food rests. When the puppy is OK with this, move on to the back teeth. I actually used this for the first month of brushing before switching to an actual dog toothbrush. When your pup is accepting of your fingers or the brush inside his mouth praise him and pet him so he feels your love and approval of his good behavior. Be patient and try again later or another day. Above all, you do not want your puppy to look at this activity in a negative light. Nothing makes dogs happier than when they know their master is happy with them. Humans are not the only ones who suffer from tooth decay, gum diseases, and toothaches. Dogs can get toothaches, too. The best way to eliminate these problems is to prevent them from developing. Good dental health is the best method of prevention. Periodontal disease can lead to infection, tooth loss and extreme pain for the dog. If a dog has teeth, gum or mouth problems, it can him cranky or have no desire to eat, which can lead to other health issues. Providing your Labradoodle puppy with good oral health can drastically decrease the chances of your pup having mouth problems and can lead to better overall health. Oral health problems are not always that easy to spot, which can result in them getting worse before they can better. Here are some signs your Labradoodle puppy may have oral health issues going on. Foul breath Build-up of bacteria, saliva and food on the teeth Excessive plaque A hard brown or yellow residue tartar on teeth Bleeding, swollen or irritated gums No desire to eat Shows signs of discomfort or pain when chewing If you happen to notice any of these symptoms, you should talk with your Veterinarian. Work with them to get a plan in place to reduce or eliminate the issues. The best solution, of course, is to prevent these problems from occurring in the first place. Related Questions How many teeth do dogs have? Puppies have 28 baby teeth, and adult dogs have 42 teeth. What kind of toothpaste should I use for my puppy? Can I use human toothpaste? You should use a canine toothbrush and canine toothpaste for your dog. DO NOT use human toothpaste. Unlike canine toothpaste, human toothpaste contains additives like fluoride, and should not be swallowed. What are the best chew toys for cleaning teeth? In addition, you may want to get him some healthy chew toys designed for cleaning teeth. Related Posts:. The number of teeth that your Labradoodle has will depend on what stage of the teething process they are at. When they are puppies with a full set of milk teeth, Labradoodles will usually have around 28 teeth. Of course, as these shed and their adult teeth grow in, the number will vary massively. But, once they have a full set of adult teeth, your Labradoodle will have somewhere around 42 teeth in total. Your dog has four types of teeth. At the very front of their mouth are the incisors. As we know, most Labradoodles will start to lose their baby teeth somewhere around 3 — 4 months old. Their adult teeth will usually start growing in at around 4 months old. And your Labradoodle will have a full set of adult teeth at around 8 months old. But, did you know that the types of teeth we identified above will usually start growing in at slightly different times? Canines will usually start to come through somewhere between 4 and 6 months of age. Similarly, premolars will be somewhere between 4 and 5 months of age. And, latest to come through is the molars, which will usually start to show between 5 and 7 months of age. How to Cope With Labradoodle Teething Labradoodle teething periods can last for 4 or 5 months in some cases. Which is a long time to deal with an irritable puppy that wants to chew on everything it sees — including you. You might have heard that yelping like another puppy might when bitten or growling at your puppy will help. And, in some cases it might. But, in other cases, these loud noises can just excite your Doodle further, leading them to think their biting is a fun game with you. The attention they get could cause them to come back and gnaw at you again when they want to play. Set up a puppy safe zone that you can leave your puppy in alone if they bite you. Make sure this has plenty of great toys for chewing on, so they can redirect their behavior elsewhere. And, to encourage better behavior, make sure to reward your Labradoodle whenever they are sitting or playing calmly by themselves. There are plenty of puppy toys available designed to help teething puppies. So, it may be worth investing in some for your Doodle. Additionally, you can use things you have at home. For instance, many owners report the success of a frozen carrot for their teething puppies! Not only does this provide something firm to chew on, but the coldness also soothes their gums. Perhaps most importantly of all, make sure to give yourself plenty of breaks from your Labradoodle teeth and teething behavior. Being chewed on constantly is painful and stressful for any owner. Taking breaks will be vital for your mental health and patience around a teething puppy. Wear tight clothing when you do interact with your Labradoodle, and enlist the help of other household members! Many owners mistake teething behaviors for aggressive biting. But, every Labradoodle puppy is likely to nip and chew when they are teething. Likewise, you should never punish your puppy for biting or chewing. Doing so can increase the number of unwanted behaviors you witness, and can build a level of wariness and distrust from your dog towards you. Instead of punishing your Labradoodle when they bite during teething, ignore them completely and remove yourself from them, for instance by leaving their puppy zone, or placing them alone inside. By starting when your Labradoodle is a puppy, your dog will become familiar with the process. This way, your puppy will associate having their teeth brushed with great things! Gradually, build up the steps to brushing a single tooth and allowing your Labradoodle to get used to the sensation. Make sure you are using a dog-safe toothpaste, not one designed for humans. Labradoodle Teeth and Teething — A Summary Labradoodle teeth and teething are similar to many other breeds! Especially when it comes to having a puppy that has turned into a tiny shark. But, with patience, rewards, and plenty of breaks, you will get through the teething stage. Are you currently dealing with a teething Labradoodle puppy? Or are you just keen to learn more about Labradoodle teeth? Let us know in the comments! Readers Also Liked. Losing their original coat Losing their puppy teeth. Why not take a look. When do Labradoodles become Adults? Labradoodles become adults at around eighteen months of age. The first year and a half accounts for the twelve distinct phases of growth and development. However, just as a Labradoodle puppy undergoes many physical changes, an adult too would have noteworthy transformations. There may not be too many physical changes after your dog is two years old, other than gaining and losing weight, but temperamental transformations are quite common. These also depend largely on the kind of training you provide, how you treat and care for your dog, its own cognitive development and the interactions with the immediate environment. Labradoodles are usually at their prime at around two years, which is also when they may start to mate. An adult Labradoodle can retain its prime for several years, almost a decade if it is properly cared for, provided sufficient nutrition and exercised daily. Many mixed breed dogs have an average life expectancy greater than that of both parent breeds. A Labradoodle has the same typical life expectancy of the Poodle but longer than the Labrador. A Labradoodle can comfortably live for around fourteen years, and in many cases slightly longer. They need their mother immediately after birth, both for warmth and nursing. A newborn pup should not be separated from their mother. Even if it is tempting to pick up a pup for a gentle cuddle, it should be put off for at least four to six hours, preferably for a day or longer. A Labradoodle pup opens its eyes at around ten days. Some pups can take longer, about a fortnight from birth. While a puppy may open their eyes within the first fortnight, they do not have clear vision and most pups will take a few more days before they can actually see the world around them. During these initial days, the eyes of a pup may have a bluish gray haze. This is not unnatural and there is nothing to worry about. Labradoodle pups usually develop clear eyesight in eight weeks. As is the case with vision, the auditory senses are also nonfunctional at birth. Labradoodle pups are effectively deaf as newborns. The ear canals open up after the eyes. Pups develop their sense of hearing gradually and it tends to improve with each passing day. Pups can hear properly in around eight weeks. To sum up these initial phases, a Labradoodle pup can see and hear, respond to movements around it and to auditory stimulus in eight weeks. Labradoodle pups develop their first teeth in around a fortnight. There can be delays but almost all pups begin to develop their baby teeth within the first four weeks. They should have all twenty-eight milk teeth by the time they are six weeks old. This leads to the weaning phase. You may introduce solid food for a puppy after all the baby teeth have cut through. The weaning phase ends at around eight weeks, which is also when the pup develops its eyesight and hearing. Most people get their Labradoodle pups after this weaning phase. Many breeders have a policy of not selling pups until the weaning period is complete. A veterinarian must be consulted before the weaning phase ends. This is for the first checkup and immunizations. Adult Labradoodles need an annual visit to a vet. This is for a thorough checkup. The immunizations for Labradoodle pups are for distemper, measles, para-influenza, hepatitis, parvovirus, and rabies. The early shots are administered between six and eight weeks. Subsequent shots are administered between ten and twelve weeks, twelve and twenty-four weeks, fourteen and sixteen weeks, twelve and sixteen months, one to two years, and one to three years. In addition to vaccination, Labradoodle pups should be dewormed and administered preventive medication against heartworm. The puppies should be specifically protected against roundworm, tapeworm, hookworm, whipworm, ringworm, and heartworm. These deworming routines should be spread across every fortnight, starting with the second week after birth. Deworming is necessary almost throughout the lifespan of Labradoodles. The frequency may be four times a year. Labradoodle pups would start biting as they develop the first set of teeth. Housebreaking a pup during this biting phase may seem to be a challenge, but it can be easily managed if you arrange for some harmless things for the puppy to chew on. You should factor in the size of the bladder of a Labradoodle pup during housebreaking. It has a small urinary bladder, which is also not fully developed, so do not expect your pup to hold it long. Socialization usually precedes housebreaking for Labradoodle pups. They are a highly sociable breed, so this is not a major challenge. The first few weeks are tricky as the newborn cannot see or hear much. Socialization becomes easy in around six weeks. It is a cakewalk after eight weeks; that is if you manage the teething issue. Socialization, housebreaking and training can happen simultaneously. Many people include basic training within the ambit of housebreaking. Advanced training should be deferred till your pup is grown up. Labradoodle pups typically begin to lose their coat sometime around four to six months although this can vary greatly. Some dogs may begin this process as young as twelve weeks old yet some may be closer to a year. They will shed their entire baby coat. This is the most striking transformation that happens in these pups. It is quite possible for the pup to develop a new coat that does not resemble what it sported as a newborn. Take a look at our discovery into how the color of their coat can differ from puppy to adulthood in our complete guide of do Labradoodle puppies change color. It is this initial loss of puppy coat that begins its transformation that shall stay well into its adulthood and old age. Labradoodle pups can have hair, wool or fleece coat, depending on which genes are dominant from its parents, and sometimes even grandparents. The new coat usually develops over several weeks. Labradoodle pups start to lose their milk teeth anywhere between ten and fourteen weeks from birth. The process of the permanent teeth taking their place may last for up to thirty weeks. Labradoodles usually have a complete set of forty-two adult teeth before they are eight months old. How much does a Labradoodle Weigh at Different Ages? A newborn Labradoodle usually weighs around 10oz. By two months, they weigh around 7lbs, around 20lbs in four months, 30lbs in six months and 35lbs in eight months. In a year, your growing pup would be around 40lbs. A young adult Labradoodle weighs around 45lbs. A fully grown adult, at around a year and a half or two years of age, will weigh between 50lbs and 65lbs. Related Questions What age do Labradoodles Live to? We have touched upon this within our article but to reiterate, the average live expectancy of a Labradoodle is between 12 and 15 years. This is the same as the Poodle but a little more than the Labrador which lives on average between 10 and 14 years. What Health Problems do Labradoodles Have? Hybrid Vigor should go some way into reducing the issues that both the Poodle and the Labrador Retriever are prone to. Ensuring that you find a reputable breeder is also imperative to protecting the future heath of your puppy as their parents should be screened. Teething What is Teething? Dogs go through developmental stages, like humans, as they grow. When they're young, a large part of their life is devoted to exploring and learning how to interact with their surroundings. Just like babies, they do this by teething. Or, in other words, by putting everything in their mouth. During this time, they learn and develop habits that are most likely going to stay with your puppy for life. Chewing an object gives the puppy lots of information - what it tastes like, what happens when they interact with it etc. If you encourage this behaviour, they will learn that it's okay to be rough with this particular item. Your puppy will remember to prefer that texture. In this period, they are continuously learning and developing. Therefore, when you see your puppy chewing something you don't want them to bite, it's important to take action immediately. Popular ways of deterring a puppy is using an anti-chew spray, or offering a more appealing alternative e. First weeks During the first few weeks of a puppy's life, they are completely dependent on their mum. Having no teeth makes feeding easier. Four weeks old Towards the beginning of their fourth week, milk teeth are budding. The puppies also begin to nip at their mum's teats. Usually, the first teeth to erupt are the canines from 3 weeks, followed by the incisors. Molars are permanent from their eruption and appear when your dog is five to seven months. In our house, the normal puppy kibble is Doodle Puppy, with warm water added to create a porridge consistency. There are initially 28 baby or 'milk' teeth coming in during this transition from nursing to soft food. They continue nursing. By this point, the budding teeth can hurt mum as they're sharp. Unsurprisingly, she becomes reluctant to nurse. Biting mum's teats and then being scolded for it is the earliest lesson of biting inhibition. It's important for puppies to learn so they know the same rules apply to mouthing human hands in the future. The first vet check is at four weeks old. The puppy receives the Parvo and Kennel Cough vaccines. The vet will also check the initial jaw alignment and teeth. However, minor abnormalities might not be visible yet. The vet will vaccinate and look for 28 baby teeth 12 incisors, four canines, 12 premolars. At eight weeks, you can adopt a puppy! The transition to dry food is complete, and they no longer need water mixed in. They spend less time with mum, learning further biting inhibition from their litter siblings instead. If your puppy arrives home at this age, they usually have 14 teeth in the upper jaw and 14 in the lower. We advise purchasing a teething kit as your puppy will be transitioning into adult teeth imminently. After 12 weeks of age, you can start training as they are fully vaccinated. We begin with clicker training and cues such as 'leave-it.