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More Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Welcome to Rosehill Boxers, located in Riverside County. We are David and Lori Rose. He was in the Army, and his running buddy and best friend was Apollo, a fawn male boxer with a full black mask. When we married and had children, we were missing the pitter pat of puppy paws. After a careful search, we adopted our lovely girl, Sadie. I am so glad we chose a boxer. They are full of life and love. Needless to say, I have become a bit partial to the Boxer breed. After a great deal of research and study of the breed, as breeders we will strive to breed quality boxers that not only represent the breed standard, but also breed for health and temperament. Every effort will be made to ensure our boxers are well cared for and health tested prior to breeding. I have been a member of the Southern California Boxer Club since .And am now the Vice President of the club. Since we have started showing our Daughter is also showing in Junior Showmanship along with the Breed ring. Madison does a fabulous job presenting each dog and strives to bring out their great qualities. Madison has also qualified for Westminister for her second year in a row. She has even branched out a bit showing other breeds. Boxer Puppies For Sale Near Me Boxer puppies Beautiful pups rare colors tails and claws done shots and dewormed very healthy Buy Now Rare Boxer Pups Beautiful rare colors and markings tales docked and dewclaws removed professionally they make great family pets and love kids 3males 3females first pictures are mom and dad Buy Now Boxer pups.I have 5 boxer poppies available with docked tails,first set of shots and dewormed all are ready for new home and just turned 8 weeks old located in Riverside CA. Mom and Dad on site. I have fawn and brindle, white pups asking for a rehoming fee. They eat Dry food and friendly registered pups. Contact me for updates on pictures. She was born on March 16th. She is available NOW. She will have two shot and be wormed when she is ready for her new families. View Detail 6 weeks old boxer puppies 6week old purebred boxer puppies. Brindle and black sealed. They all have their tails. Both parents are on the property. She has 2 shots and 3 dewormers she is registered AKC! Mom and Dad on site! Ready for new home! They are good around other people, more of a family dog. .You can get one or both. View Detail 13 month old puppy for sale Dilla is a 13 month old Puppy which is a mixed breed. Della would make a fantastic pet provided it receive some training he has absolutely none and very much in need of training very undisciplined. They have docked tails and dew claw. Will have first set of shots,deworming, and a Vet well check before releasing them to new owner. Pm me xxxxxxxxx xxxxx. Boxers are very loyal, intelligent, and very friendly and lovely. Boxers are very cheerful, and their inquisitive nature means they love to be silly, explore, and play games. Boxers are champion smugglers. Many owners have reported that their boxer loves to be held like a baby and is excellent with children. Has knowledge of the Boxer Breed. Ready for there new homes one week before Christmas. Currently taking deposit to hold your new fur baby. Please email for more info.

Please contact us for puppy prices. But once your puppy is born and you have accepted an alphabet puppy litter and choose to back out, your deposit is subject to forfeit. Birth to weaning so if you change your mind after confirming, you are reducing the time the next family has to also prepare for their new puppy. No restrictions on AKC full registration and full breeding rights given on your haus von Wiese puppy. Final payment is due at time of puppy pick up or after delivery arrangements are scheduled, 2 days prior to flight. No additional Charge for puppy pick up in Huntersville NC. September Breeding We had a successful breeding between Lotte and Gringo. We expect our "B" litter to arrive in early November, with take home after 8 weeks of nursing taking us through New Years .The breeding took place but we need a month for the puppies to grow in utero before our vet can confirm the pregnancy. Any overflow will roll over to our Spring Cersei long coat dam litter. Paska is undoubtedly one of the most well known working dog Black German Shepherds of all time. Just as strategically as horses are bred to increase positive attributes, we are breeding in a similar style. Our goal is to save Paska's heritage and continue to produce puppies containing his well balanced temperament, drive and strong working ability. Bomber carries some of the same impressive attributes as Paska and is the product of highly accomplished and highly decorated shepherds in Germany. It is our goal to preserve both bloodlines while integrating fresh new lines from Germany to be sure of safe breeding outcome. Along with 7-week old personality and drive level testing on each puppy, we strive to match each puppy with it's family to achieve long-term fit and family harmony. Our breeding pairs are selected with great health, hips and elbows from multi generational excellence of their lineage. Scroll below to our breeding dogs and click on their Pedigeree Link to view their impressive German pedigree. Thank you to the families that are giving loving new homes to our precious black German Shepherd puppies! Please call or text to reserve your puppy. Nolan was a magnificent 4 time competitor of the German Bundesseiger. You don't want to miss this stunner! Winn-Dixie is a fabulous mix of both Unkas and Nolan. V Paska vom Salztalblick. We are hapy to include Aurora and her freshness to our breeding program. Basia is an incredible product of our exclusive breeding program from the flawless Paska bloodline. Lotte and her parents have all tested the highest for Hip and Elbow tests in Germany, A normal. Mazikeen joined us from German European Import parents. Mazikeen's coat is long, glossy and incredibly soft. Mazikeen has a sweet natured and pleasing personality who produces family companion pups. Cersei's coat is long, glossy and incredibly soft. We are proud and excited for her to join our home and our breeding program. Go to the puppy page for more information and details. SchH 2 April 11, Score was shown for conformation on May 29, .SchH 3 July .We produce three to four litters of puppies a year. We only breed dogs from European and Czech working bloodlines. It is our belief that dogs bred from solid German Shepherd working bloodlines have solid nerves and temperament. These are qualities that most folks want in a dog for there family. A pup with good nerves and temperament is less likely to be sharp and aggressive to your friends and their children. Our dogs go thru Schutzhund training. All of our pups are covered by a written guarantee on the puppy's hip's and health. Your puppy will be tattooed in the right ear and have all vaccinations up to date when you pick it up. On occasions we have adult dogs for sale. German Shepherd puppies for sale and dogs for Schutzhund training, Police service, narcotics, bomb detection, therapy work, Search and Rescue. We have been German Shepherd breeders for over thirty years. Our dogs have proven themselves to do serious sport and service work from coast to coast. Dogs bred from good strong German Shepherd working bloodlines prove to be more self assured, have good even temperament and make wonderful family companion and guard dogs. I often have solid black German Shepherd pups from our breedings. We offer German Shepherd stud service to approved females. We often have solid black German Shepherd pups for sale. Our puppies are all registered with the AKC. As a breeder for over thirty years we solidly stand behind our guarantee and feel that we offer the best quality German Shepherd puppy for the price that you will find. Will give any assistance and advice on bringing up your pup. Our daughter Sgt. Army Dec. Phone: .Images internally provided The majestic German Shepherd is renowned globally, not just for its striking appearance, but also for its intelligence, loyalty, and trainability. Among the diverse color variants of the German Shepherd, the black short-haired version is a captivating sight, a blend of power and elegance. Historical Roots Originating from Germany in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the German Shepherd stands out not only for its imposing stature but also for its unparalleled combination of intelligence, loyalty, and versatility. This breed has secured its spot as one of the most recognized and beloved dogs in the world. Physical Attributes Short haired German Shepherds are medium to large-sized dogs, showcasing a blend of strength, agility, and elegance. They have a dense double coat that can vary in length and color, from black and tan to sable or even all-black. Their almond-shaped eyes exhibit intelligence and curiosity, while their ears — often erect and forward-pointing — add to their alert demeanor. Temperament German Shepherd puppies are known for their intelligence, making them quick learners and highly trainable. Their loyalty to their handlers or family members is unmatched, often leading to strong protective instincts. This protective nature, coupled with their bravery, has made them indispensable in roles like police work, search and rescue, and military operations. Socialization from a young age is crucial to ensure that their protective instincts are well-balanced, preventing undue aggression or timidity. By visiting their website, potential adopters can gain insights into available litters, the health and pedigree of the puppies, and the meticulous care they receive. Complete with photographs, detailed descriptions, and contact information, the German Shepherd Puppies NC website simplifies the journey of finding and adopting a short-haired German Shepherd puppy, ensuring that residents of North Carolina are only a click away from their future four-legged family member. Their years of expertise have given them a unique understanding of the breed, allowing them to provide puppies that are both healthy and well-adjusted. Top-Rated Breeder: The accolades speak for themselves. Their meticulous care ensures that every puppy is healthy, well-socialized, and ready to be a part of a loving family. Passion for the Breed: Their undying love for the German Shepherd breed is palpable in every interaction. In Conclusion The journey to finding the perfect pet can often be filled with uncertainty and countless options. However, when it comes to black short-haired German Shepherd puppies in North Carolina, the path becomes straightforward. German Shepherd Puppies NC, with its impeccable reputation, decades of experience, and genuine love for the breed, is undeniably the best choice for families looking to adopt. Ambassador With a passion for storytelling and a commitment to the highest standards of journalism, Victor Williams brings his extensive experience and global expertise to his contributions for NY Weekly. His education in world history sparked his interest in traveling the globe and gaining a deeper understanding of different cultures and societies. Through his travels, Williams has gained a wealth of knowledge and experiences, which he draws upon in his reporting. With a commitment to journalistic excellence and a love of adventure, Williams continues to be a leading voice in the world of news reporting. Next Post. We are a small family operated kennel located in the Northern Piedmont area of North Carolina. I only have dogs with excellent temperaments, good minds, strong character and nerves, nice structure and willing to please attitudes. Puppies will all have plenty of drive for training and working, but not over the top prey-monster types. Some will have more drive than others and will be very suited to sport, police K9, and other working endeavors. While other puppies will be a bit more laid back and fit in well with families as companion dogs. Over these years Janette has evaluated many hundreds of puppies and has become very adept at pegging what an individual puppy will be like as an adult. Robert Oglesby and Janette Oglesby have been involved with German Shepherd Dogs, puppy care, and training for many years. In her previous life Janette was a veterinary practice manager, veterinary technician, and kennel manager. During the past 15 years she has been evaluating, working, training, titling, and breeding these fabulous dogs. Robert, now retired, has been in veterinary practice for over 32 years and maintains the successful website www. He is responsible for the veterinary care of the dogs. A Little About the German Shepherds Our male and females are often purchased titled or started prospects from Europe after a thorough evaluation. We also use quality outside males for genetic and color diversity. More recently we are breeding, raising, training, then titling our own dogs. Occasionally some of these older puppies or young green dogs are available. Our goal is to be able to offer your family the opportunity to welcome into your home your new best friend and family protector. Coldwater German Shepherds.

With over 40 years of experience, Shawn trains people to properly establish and maintain leadership roles with their canine companions. Shawn has trained with several acclaimed canine experts and refined The Dog Way training methods through experience and observation of dogs' natural interactions within their groups. Deciding you want to purchase a pug puppy is exciting. However, you want to make sure you find the right puppy for you. Make sure you seek out reputable breeders so your puppy does not come with any health problems. Visit the puppies in person and choose the one that suits your needs. Ask the breeder plenty of questions about the puppy's current health and pedigree. Before bringing your new friend home, make sure your house is puppy proofed. All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Pug puppies come with a unique set of needs. Puppies in general require more care than an adult dog. Before embarking on your journey to find a pug puppy, consider whether you can accommodate one at the moment. Make sure you have time for a puppy. Puppies need extra feeding, as well socialization and training. If you have a very busy schedule, you may want to wait for things to settle down before getting a puppy. Pugs, as a pet, require some maintenance. The folds in their faces need regular cleaning, and they're also prone to a great deal of shedding. Make sure you can live with frequent grooming, and accept the fact your house will never quite be hair-free. Like all breeds, pugs are prone to certain health problems. While a good breeder is adept at breeding out such problems, there are certain problems that are hard to breed out. These are usually simply due to how a pug is built. Learn the risks associated with pugs and make sure you're prepared to deal with them down the road. All pugs, regardless of breeding, are prone to eye problems. Pug's distinctive, bulging eyes expose a large area of their corneas, which puts their eyes at risk of drying out or forming ulcers. You may have to deal with frequent vet visits to deal with eye issues. Pugs are very prone to overheating because their flattened faces makes it hard for them to breathe. This problem can be even worse in hot weather, and overheating can cause serious health issues for a pug. Behaviorally, pugs are a more social breed. They are more prone to separation anxiety issues than other breeds. If you're gone a lot, a pug may not be the right dog for you. When searching for a breeder, there are a few places to scratch off your list right away. Puppy mills and very obviously bad breeders should be avoided. You're more likely to get a pug with existing health problems, or the risk of developing health problems down the road. In general, do not trust a breeder who simply sells dogs online from any given buyer. A breeder who does not ask any questions is probably not a good breeder. Responsible breeders want to make sure their dogs go to good homes. Puppy mills sometimes sell puppies to pet stores, so avoid buying a pug from a pet store. Puppy mills may also sell pugs online. If you can simply look at a picture of a puppy and purchase it, this is probably a puppy mill. Start your search locally. If you're lucky, you will be able to find a breeder who lives nearby. Look for ads in the newspaper, online, at local pet stores and veterinary clinics, and at any local pet clubs. A breeder in your area is convenient, as you will not have to travel far to see the puppies. Just because someone is a local breeder, do not assume they are an ethical one. Make sure to visit any breeder in person and look at the puppies physically before purchasing one. Unfortunately, not all areas have pug breeders close by. In some cases, you may have to travel to meet and select a puppy. There are many places you can look online to locate the nearest pug breeder. The Pug Dog Club keeps a list of reputable breeders online. You can search for the closest breeder there. The American Kennel Club also has a database of dog breeders. You can search there by breed. Remember to have patience. Even if you find a good breeder relatively close to you, they may not have puppies available for a while. You may have to wait a few months before taking home your pug puppy. Call a few breeders during your search. Pay close attention to your interactions. Learn the signs of a good breeder. Only work with breeders who are responsible and care about their dogs. Their facilities should be clean and spacious. They will be flexible in scheduling a time for you to see the puppies. A solid breeder will usually only breed one type of dog, or only a few types of dogs. The breeder should be very knowledgeable of pugs. During your initial conversation, the breeder will want to go over some basic pug care information with you. Good breeders do not have anything to hide. Not only will the be willing to let you see the dog's pedigree and meet their parents, they will actually encourage this. When you select a breeder to meet up with, make sure to ask a variety of questions. You want to make sure their puppies are a good match for you and your home. You also want to make sure the breeder is responsible and that the puppies are in good health. Interacting with a dog's mother and father can give you a sense of your puppy's future temperament. Ask questions about the breeder's credentials. Ask how long they've been breeding pugs. A more experienced breeder is more likely to produce healthier puppies. Ask about the puppy's parents. Make sure the parents do not have any inheritable diseases. Ask if you can see the health certificates for the parents on request. You should also ask about what treatment the puppies have received. Have they been vaccinated or de-wormed? Have they been spayed or neutered yet? When you get a chance to interact with the puppies, look closely at the puppy's you like. Pugs are prone to certain abnormalities. You can detect a potential issue by examining the dog's eyes, as well as how it breathes and moves. Watery eyes, squinted eyes, or glazed over eyes are signs of poor health. Hold the puppy close to you to hear it breathe. Raspy, labored breathing is generally a bad sign. Watch the puppy moving and at rest. It's not uncommon for pugs to breathe through their mouths when running around. However, a resting puppy should be able to comfortably breathe through its nose. There should be no signs of limping or an uneven gain if the puppies are old enough to walk. If you notice a puppy walking funny, listen for a clicking noise from the hips. This indicates the dog may develop hip problems later in life. As you interact with the puppies, aim for one with a good temperament. You want a puppy that's not too shy, but also one that's not overly rambunctious. You want a puppy that allows you to pick it up without squirming. A very aggressive or very standoffish puppy can be a problem. Once you've selected two or three pugs you like, request one-on-one time with them. You want a puppy that is friendly away from its litter. A friendly puppy will wag its tail, allow you to pet it, and look at you when you talk. A good breeder will be as scrutinizing of you as you are of them. Breeders want to make sure their dogs go to good homes, so don't be put off if a breeder asks you a lot of questions. This is a good sign. The breeder wants to make sure you will take good care of the puppy. They will also want to know about your general lifestyle and how you plan to care for the dog. If this is your first pug, don't panic. A breeder is unlikely to reject you simply because you don't have specific experience with pugs. As long as you've done some research on the breed, the breeder will probably be willing to sell to you if you're responsible. A good breeder will always be willing to provide this information. After selecting the puppy you want, ask for its pedigree as well as a certificate of health. These papers should assure you the puppy is in good health, and that its family tree is relatively free of inheritable conditions. Puppies need frequent vet visits. You should have a certification on hand showing what vaccinations and other treatments your dog has already received. As you prepare to bring your puppy home, make sure you're ready. Your puppy should enter your home with all the supplies it needs to thrive ready. You will need the following: [7] X Research source A crate to transport your puppy home and for crate training later Bedding Collar, leash, and identification tag Toys Grooming supplies i. Before bringing your dog home, you will need to pug proof your house. Pugs are inquisitive animals and prone to getting into things. You want to make sure your pug cannot get into any dangerous substances or places. Make sure all electrical wires are covered or out of reach. Keep things like household cleaners and detergents out of reach. Place them in high kitchen cabinets. Prevent access to staircases, as young pugs can easily slip and fall on the stairs. A good breeder will present you with a contract prior to purchase. This outlines your basic responsibilities and the breeder's return policy. Read the contract carefully before signing. If there's anything you don't understand, ask the breeder. You want the option of returning a dog in the event it has a health problem you cannot afford to treat. Once the contract is signed and your home is ready, you can bring your new friend home. You can now enjoy your pug puppy, and begin the process of training and caring for your new lifelong friend. Pug Dog Colors Overview Pugs can be found in four major colors, though not all are standard colors with certain kennel clubs. The two most common colors are fawn and black. Silver and apricot can also be seen with this breed, and while not standard colors per the AKC, these colors are indeed recognized by the FCI and other kennel clubs. Brindle Pugs do exist, though this is not without some controversy. All non-black Pugs have black masks and black ears. There are some unique color markings that can appear on Pugs which include the trace and the thumbprint, found only on non-black Pugs. This section will cover all of the details regarding Pug colors, both standard and alternate, as well as various markings and other color-related elements. But, of course, since other colors exist, an AKC Pug can be silver also known as silver-fawn , apricot also known as apricot-fawn , or even the rare and controversial brindle. If you have a Pug with a non-standard color silver-fawn, apricot, or even brindle , as of the time of this writing, if you register your Pug via postal mail not online and send in photos of your Pug that clearly shows the non-standard coat, the AKC will usually grant you a registration with the appropriate color or pattern listed as an alternate color. Though a Pug of any color can be registered, this does not mean the color is accepted in the show ring. For AKC conformation events, any color other than fawn or black is a disqualification. It should be noted that the AKC, which follows the guidelines set forth by the Pug Dog Club of America, used to accept both silver and apricot-fawn. If you are in the US, where most Pugs are either fawn or black, keep in mind that owners from 27 countries took part in the survey. Other well-recognized kennel clubs such as the FCI and KC make this much easier, since they accept apricot and silver coat colors in the show ring. And, the CKC allows distinction between fawn and sliver, by having 'silver-fawn' as an option. With these clubs, fawn is a light to medium cream. However, because the AKC will register a fawn as a fawn and an apricot or a silver as a fawn because they are non-black Pugs , but can also grant a registration for an apricot or silver to be as such via an alternate color, an AKC fawn Pug may truly be a fawn ranging from light cream to medium cream or technically be a silver or apricot more ahead on these colors. All non-black Pugs, including fawn, have black ears and black masks more ahead on this. Variances: Fawns are not always solid, there are variances in the coat. Many Pugs have a trace which is a stripe of back-tipped hairs running down the back that break up the fawn color. And, it is not uncommon for two shades of fawn to be seen within one coat; for example, a light cream fawn can blend into a light apricot-fawn. The wrinkles on a Pug are also responsible for color variances since a thumbprint may be present which is black fur in the creases and folds of the forehead. AKC Color Disqualification: Though fawn has a range of light to medium, the AKC does make it clear that anything other than fawn or black is a disqualification in the show ring. This refers to not only what the registration papers say but by what color is seen in person during the competition. Since there is sometimes a blurred line between silver and fawn or apricot and fawn, this can make things tricky. These colors are found all throughout the world, but in the US, show breeders focus on keeping the fawn a fawn without silver or apricot tones. Examples of Fawn Pugs: Dubi at 6 years old, a fawn Pug photo courtesy of Carmina Bautista Poppy, at 4 months old, a Pug with a combination of light and medium fawns photo courtesy of Maria Silver Fawn and Silver Overview: This is a color that is not overly common with Pugs; though, many owners of silver or silver fawn Pugs can easily be labeling their dogs as fawn, especially if that is what the registration papers state. Because, as the name implies, silver fawn is a type of fawn. It is very light and is in fact the lightest color that a Pug can be. The AKC does not recognize this as a standard color, but may grant a request for a silver-fawn Pug to be registered as such via an alternate color, and if so, generally only responds to requests that are sent via postal mail. Both the FCI and KC allow for silver and the CKC allows for silver-fawn; both are essentially the same coat color but are referred to with these different terms. With some other breeds, this sort of orange hue is referred to as fawn like with Boxers or as orange like with Pomeranians. But, with Pugs, this is a nice, shiny orange hue that is set apart from the more common fawn coat. It is very common for apricot Pugs to not be fully apricot; there may be some fawn or even an almost white color found in patches, most often on the chest. Though, just like silver or silver fawn, this is also a color that may be present in the coat, but owners refer to their Pugs as simply 'fawn', especially if that is what the registration papers deem the Pug to be. And, just like other non-standard AKC colors, an apricot Pug may be registered as a fawn or as an apricot if the owner requests for this alternate coloring to appear on the document. With the CKC, apricot is not its own color, but rather their definition of fawn includes all shades in the fawn family including light to deep apricot. Apricot Pugs have black masks and black ears. And, just like all non-black Pugs, a trace and a thumbprint are desired in the show ring of all well-recognized kennel clubs. Example of an Apricot Pug: Peggie, at 4 years old, a registered apricot Pug photo courtesy of Susi R Ludlow Black Pugs Overview: It is rather amazing how very different the two main colors of Pugs are; fawn is a very light cream with black ears and mask, and black Pugs are just about the complete opposite with a rich, dark black coat. Of course, the ears and mask are black too, but there is no discernible difference since the entire Pug is black. Many black Pugs have solid coats, but it is possible for there to be a small white marking; if this is present, it is usually on the chest. As Pugs age into their senior years, gray hairs may appear on the face or in different areas of the body and this is much more noticeable with black Pugs. Examples of Black Pugs: Henry, at 10 months old photo courtesy of Maxine Aird Pearl photo courtesy of Saz Race Wonder how much exercise Pugs need and how to keep activity safe for this brachycephalic breed? Check out Pug Dog Exercise. Brindle Pugs Overview: Brindle is a pattern of interlocking light and dark colors which creates a striping effect. With Pugs, this is typically in the grey to black range. This type of coat pattern is found with quite a few other dog breeds including the Bull Terrier, Boxer, and American Bulldog. The Debate: Many wonder if a purebred brindle Pug can even exist. The answer is yes. This said, there are some explanations to be given. On one hand is the argument that brindle does not exist within the Pug's bloodline. It is true that this is not a color pattern that should be seen with today's breeding programs since it is not a standard color. One of the goals of reputable breeders is to produce dogs that come as close to breed standards as possible. So, brindle is not something that most breeders would strive for and any champion dogs would not have recessive brindle genes. But, did brindle appear in the bloodline at some point in the past? The answer is, yes, it very well could have. This goes back, in part, to the fact that every single dog breed that exists to day was developed from the pairing of other breeds. As to which breeds, exactly, were used to develop the Pug is unknown. We know that this breed was developed in China. Somewhere around B. And he was indeed successful. Therefore, the first element to note is that no one can say if, looking back, brindle is or is not found in the Pug's bloodline. In fact, paintings from the 's show Pug dogs with brindle coats. This said, those brindle lines most likely died out. It has also been debated that brindle Pugs are a myth since the gene responsible for the pattern is dominant and would 'take over' the entire Pug breed with eventually only brindles existing, making fawns and black obsolete. But, that point is not accurate. Brindle exists in other breeds and does not take over. One example is the Boxer dog in which there are both brindles and fawns. So, if there are brindle Pugs, however rare, where does the brindle come from? The answer is that brindle was introduced into the bloodline via another breed at some point. For each individual Pug, this could be recent or it could be many generations in the past. This may seem contradictory. As time goes by, a random brindle is thrown every now and then. Examples of Brindle Pugs: Luna at 8 months old, a brindle Pug photo courtesy of Brenda photo courtesy of Mike Dillow Color Changes It is normal for a Pug puppy's coat to change coat color to a certain degree as he or she is maturing from pup to adolescent. With fawn Pugs, the coat may lighten or darken, predominately during the first year. It's not uncommon for there to be smuttiness at a young age which is the term for black hairs intermingled with a light color coat. This may remain, lighten, darken, or fade in other areas except for a line running down the center of the back which is known as a trace. The ears and mask may darken into a more solid black as a Pug grows. For example, here we see Yoda as a young puppy first photo below on mobile with a fawn base and lots of black hairs running through the coat referred to as smuttiness - details ahead. And, then we can see Yoda as a 3-year-old adult Pug second photo below on mobile , the fawn is much lighter and the black-tipped hairs are now a much more faded trace that runs down her back. The black mask has darkened and her head wrinkles are fully developed. There can be other color changes as well. Apricot tones may not appear until a Pug is a bit older; so, a Pug that is registered as a fawn may very well be an apricot. Another change that typically happens with black Pugs, but may also be seen on some fawns, is that hairs around the muzzle and face may gray as a Pug transitions into the senior years. If this occurs, it is generally starts around the 8 year mark and increases in time. Wondering how much sleep a Pug needs and ways to help this breed achieve a good night's rest? Check out Pug Dog Sleep. Smuttiness If you take a very closeup look at a light-colored Pug, you may see a scattering of a few black hairs over the body and this is generally not enough to classified a Pug has having smuttiness. Smuttiness on a Pug refers to a noticeable overlay of black hairs on a light coat fawn, silver, silver-fawn, apricot, or apricot-fawn. These patches of black hairs are thin enough to see the lighter hairs underneath, however it gives an overall appearance of a "haze". The more there is, either in density or coverage, the more smuttiness a Pug has. Note that black or darker hairs are desired in certain places on a Pug; running down the center of the back the trace and on the forehead the thumbprint - more ahead on both of these markings. But, when there is an overabundance of these black hairs in areas other than the forehead wrinkles or the back, the term smuttiness is then used. Smuttiness may appear in just about any area on a Pug including the saddle back , flanks, legs, and head. In the show world, this is not a disqualification, however it is considered to be a fault points are deducted. Example of Smuttiness on a Pug: Winston at 11 years old; this is an example of heavy smuttiness on the head. Though not something rewarded for in the show ring, there is no denying how cute this Pug looks. In fact, this is such a heavy intermingling of black hairs that Winston almost looks like a half fawn and half black Pug dog. The trace may begin on the nape of the neck or further down the back. It will run in a predominantly straight line, ending at the base of the tail. The thickness and the density of the trace can vary. Though a trace is a very desired trait in conformation dog shows, not all non-black Pugs have this marking. A trace may be very apparent during the puppy years and then fade as a Pug matures. On the flip side, this marking may not show at all during the newborn phase and then become apparent as the Pug grows. This particular element is considered to be an official marking of the breed and is thought to give Pugs character. In the show ring, the blacker the trace, the better. That said, if your Pug does not have a trace, this is nothing to be concerned about. If, however, when Pugs are being considered for a breeding program with the goal of producing show quality dogs, those with no trace at all are often excluded since this is a heredity trait. Example of a Trace on a Pug: Do you have a Pug and are worried about leaving them home alone? Find helpful tips for Pug Dog Separation Anxiety. The Thumbprint A Pug's thumbprint, also referred to as a thumb mark or diamond, is a darkened spot centered on the forehead. This, of course, is not seen on Pugs with black coats. Though this is another desired trait when Pugs are judged in conformation events, not all non-black Pugs have a thumbprint. Another way to look at this is that approximately 3 out of 4 non-black Pugs have a thumbprint or thumb mark. Though it is sometimes called a diamond, it may resemble an oval, a circle, or be an irregular shape. While the wrinkles on the forehead can cause shading that may appear to be a thumb mark, the thumb mark is actually a splash of darker color on the fur. This type of marking is usually present at birth. It is rare for a Pug born without this to develop one as he ages. When a young pup has a small thumbprint marking, it may grow larger or become darker as a Pug ages and matures. Example of a Thumbprint on a Pug: This is Tommy, a Pug with a nice thumbprint on his deep forehead wrinkles. This is an area of black that typically starts under the chin, covers the muzzle, and extends around the eyes. Though this is the general description, the mask can vary quite a bit on Pugs. One element to take note of is that the black may be mainly on the muzzle and then again with black fur around the eyes with little connection between the two points or, quite contrary to that, black may extend from the muzzle to the eye area with no interruption at all. In addition, while a very dark black mask is desired in the conformation show ring, the black mask on some Pugs may contain any number of fawn or lighter-colored hairs. This can range from medium to dark brown and eyes can be so dark that they almost appear black. With canine breed standards, the term dark means dark brown. Coat color does not affect eye color; for example, a fawn Pug does not automatically have lighter eyes than a black Pug. You may be curious to know if Pugs can have blue eyes. Blue is not in this breed's genetic code. However, similar to humans, dogs are usually born with dark blue eyes due to low levels of melanin in the eyes. The eyes darken as melanin levels naturally increase. This transition is usually complete by week six or seven. White Paws Can a Pug have mitted, white paws? The term 'mitted' is often used with cats since it is much more common for felines to have this type of color marking. It refers to coloring that falls on the paws that is different than the main body color, as if the animal is wearing mittens. White paws on a Pug is not common at all and is considered a major fault in the show ring; however, it can happen. This Pug below has a fawn coat and white markings on the paws and on the chest. Both photos are of Mr. Mittens, at 3 months old; photos courtesy of Suzanne White markings like this are able to exist due to the parti-factor gene. This very same color gene is responsible for small white markings on the chest that are occasionally seen with Pugs of all colors. Rarely, the parti-factor is thrown to one, some, or all paws, resulting in purebred Pugs with white mitted paws. Are you taking care of your Pug's teeth? For this brachycephalic breed, dental care is very important. Learn how to keep your Pug's teeth clean and healthy. Behavior and Personality Traits Based on Color Many people wonder if there are inbred character traits that vary depending on the coat color of the Pug. As with any other breed, the coloring of the coat has no effect on energy level, personality, behavioral quirks or any other element. But, it is easy to leap to the belief that color matters in this regard. An owner may have a black Pug that is more energetic than his fawn counterpart, for example. However, there are just as many owners who have energetic fawns compared to laid back black Pugs. Each dog is an individual, and Pugs will have their own unique personalities, regardless of coat color. Differences in Coat and Shedding Most Pugs have coats consisting of two layers of fur, an inner and an outer coat. Some, but not all black Pugs are single coated. For this reason, a percentage of black coated Pugs may shed less in comparison to fawn, apricots or slivers. And, the color of your carpeting and furniture can affect how much shedding you notice. Fur that sheds from a black Pug onto light-colored surfaces is going to be much more noticeable than fur that falls from a fawn Pug. And, fur that sheds from a fawn Pug onto dark surfaces is going to be much more visible than fur that falls from a black Pug. Though it's not suggested to buy furniture and flooring that matches your Pug, this is something to keep in mind. Did you find this to be informative? See what's inside. Related: Black Pug Dogs - More photos of black Pug puppies and dogs with a recap of color information. All rights reserved. Privacy Policy We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Pug adoption and buying guide The emphasis on features over function by big animal clubs and societies has given the Pug a really raw deal. The modern Pug puppy has a big head, bug eyes and a flat face. Their ears are dropped and their tail is tightly curled. This is a dog with a wrinkled expression and underbite that makes them appear pensive, along with that characteristic swaying walk. These Pug puppies are breathing loudly as they play. The Pug is a fairly ancient breed thought to be of oriental origin. They were first recognized by the American Kennel Club in but were being imported from China as early as the 16th century. Were They Bred to Fight Lions? Sadly, the adorable image of the Pug hunting lions is just not real. Pugs have always been bred as companion dogs. Famous Pug owners The passion for the Pug in celebrity circles is nothing new. Pugs were specifically bred to be companions rather than for any practical purpose. And were popular with royalty and other historical celebrities. Prince William of Orange credited his Pug Pompey with saving his life after the dog alerted him to the approach of the Spaniards. And Josephine Bonaparte reputedly owned a Pug named Fortune. Have a look at the ancient pug pictures of William Hogarth and his Pug below. The Pug above was painted in .You can see clearly in art how Pugs used to look. The Pug pictured has quite a substantial muzzle. The extreme facial shortening we see today has been achieved by selective breeding over the last hundred years or so. And the modern pug looks rather different, as you can see from the profile of the puppy at the top of the page. Why do They Have Short Snouts? In an ideal world, your Pug should look like their ancient ancestors. A slightly shorter snout than the average dog, and a little bit of a squatter body, but nothing to write home about. Your puppy should be a healthy young dog, who can function just as well as their longer nosed cousins. And feels well enough to express that natural Pug personality! Coats and the Weather Your puppy has a black or fawn coat with a dark muzzle. Although they have an easy to keep coat, they do shed. This coat type is prone to shedding, and means that they are not classed as hypoallergenic or good for allergy sufferers. Despite their thick double coat, your Pug does feel the cold. Normal Pug weight is actually higher than it should be. These dogs are compact and sturdy. Their bodies are quite hard. When Do They Stop Growing? Your Pug puppy will become an adult at around 18 months of age. Their final adult Pug weight will settle around 2 years old. A 3 year old, 4 year old or 5 year old full grown Pug should not gain any weight from their second birthday onwards. Unless they were underweight at that point. A giant Pug is rarely a healthy or happy one. Hard to fault in terms of personality, they have a delightful nature. Pug body language is incredibly chilled out and relaxed. They sleep in unusual positions, but this is because it makes it easier for them to breathe, rather than being a sign of their easygoing disposition. Your Pug will love your family and friendless regardless of their age, and be desperate to spend all their time together. Do Pugs Like to be Held? Energetic Dreams In general the Pug activity level is very low when compared with other breeds of dog. They make a lively addition to a household, but only as long as they are kept cool and not over exercised. Your Pug will be playful when they have the energy to be. They love games, especially training games and tug of war. Unfortunately, because these dogs suffer quite badly from breathing problems, there are some things you need to consider when it comes to exercise. Therefore, exercising is very difficult for them. As well as extreme intolerance to exercise, they are also prone to overheating, which limits the amount of exercise they can do. Typical Pug dog activities include following you around, chewing their favorite toys and sleeping in odd positions. Is the Pug Easy to Train? Your Pug might be small, but his brains are mighty! This is a clever little dog that is quick to learn as long as you use positive methods. In fact, some of the very aspects of the Pug which people find so appealing are actually indicators of serious underlying issues. Overheating in the Pug Dog Breed Overheating is the first of several problems you and your Pug will have to face. It has two very important roles. More importantly, this muzzle provides the dog with an extremely efficient cooling system. Which means that your Pug can rapidly overheat in warm conditions. That classic happy Pug face is actually a result of them gasping for air. Avoid going for walks in the hot weather, and make sure that you bring some water and have access to shade whenever you take him out. Never leave your Pug alone in the car on a warm day, the usual risk of overheating in cars which normal dog owners work to avoid is increased considerably with your Pug. Be constantly aware of the risks of your Pug puppy overheating and you should be able to counter its potentially life threatening effects. Breathing Problems One of the things people find charming about these dogs is the endearing noises that they make, including a propensity to snore like a train! However, the cause of this noise is sadly anything but adorable. This left the breed with a lot of spare flesh. Both inside and outside of his mouth. And this breed often have severely compromised respiratory systems. In more ways than one. These problems together are termed brachycephalic airway syndrome. There are surgical options which can help your Pug to breathe more easily in the long term, but considering whether to bring a puppy home who you know will be constantly short of breath is a decision only you can make. Pug Eye Problems The Pug has abnormally shallow eye sockets. Shallow sockets means protruding eyes. And protruding eyes get scraped and scratched a lot more than they should. You can help your puppy to reduce these risks by being vigilant with their eye health. Inspect them every day for signs of discomfort, including rubbing, redness and discharge. Screw Tails You probably know that the Pug has a cute little corkscrew tail that curls over his bottom. It looks very sweet, but the screw tail can be trouble for these dogs and their owners. The feature that makes the tail lie in a spiral, instead of hanging down behind the dog, is a result of a deformity of the tail bones. A corkscrew tail is caused by an unusual bone shape which forces the spine to form a spiral. It can cause very painful and severe neurological problems if the deformity affects more than just the tail, and occurs higher up the spine. Screw tails can also be hard for your pup to keep clean. This will reduce the risk of him picking up an infection or getting too grubby. Dental Problems The pug has just as many teeth as nature intended. Unfortunately he has nowhere to put them. This is a common problem to several Toy dog breeds and by no means exclusive to the Pug. The close proximity of the teeth means that food is more likely to get caught between them, leading to gum disease and tooth decay. Which in turn can cause problems eating. Other Health Problems It is worth bearing in mind that although all dogs have health problems of some kind or another, these structural ones are pretty serious and must be taken into account when you are deciding which breed to adopt into your family. They also suffer from other diseases, just like any other pedigree dog. These include Pug dog encephalitis Aortic Stenosis — a heart problem Leg-Perthes disease — a painful leg bone disease Atrial septal defect — a heart problem Alopecia hair loss What is important, is that these conditions, some of which occur in other breeds too, are in addition to the 5 structural problems listed above. Those problems are specifically associated with the structure of the dog. A structure that is deliberately selected for and built into the breed standard. Are Pugs in Pain? It is likely that most Pugs experience discomfort in their lives more than the average dog. Their issues with temperature control and breathing are very common and make doing normal doggy things more of a challenge. Their eye and dental problems can often be painful too. This study of the mortality rates of purebred dogs found that your Pug, on average, is likely to live until they are 11 years old. A Healthy Pug? There are now breeders specializing in retro Pugs , more like the old Pug breed. Breeders prioritize snout length and slim build over anything else. The only truly ethical way to buy your Pug puppy is to go to a breeder that prioritises their health, or to adopt an adult Pug from a rescue center. Where to get your Pug Puppy? Puppy mills are places where people breed dogs en masse to sell them for profit. The dogs in these farms are usually not treated well. This goes for the mothers as well as the pups. The reason pet stores should be avoided is that they tend to source their dogs from puppy mills. The right place to get a baby Pug dog is from a retro Pug breeder. Or possibly one that breeds Pug mixes. It is possible, with a careful breeding program, using only dogs with straighter tails, longer muzzles and better set eyes, that over generations you could potentially claw back a healthy structure for this popular breed of dog. But this is probably not a reality. Particularly as some breeders do not recognize that they created a problem. There are two realistic ways to help these dogs become healthier. The first is to outcross them with a more structurally sound breed or breeds. Allowing them to have a healthier structure but retain some of their charm and delightful character. The other option is for people to stop buying them altogether. Which is a sad thought, because of course some of those that love Pugs would hate to see a world without them. And owning one may indeed be rewarding in a number of ways for the owner. So a more realistic alternative could include: Cairn Terrier 14 years Border Terrier 14 years Miniature poodle

Potato Head" and more! What can we say? His one of a kind personality and potato-like physique makes him an easy staff favorite. Even the other dogs think he's the best! He bounces, flops, leaps well, as much as a potato can leap in playdates with the other dogs, especially his hound dog pal Marty McFly. We love seeing his toofy smile every day so much, but truthfully, he's tired of shelter life and ready for someone to take him home. When Tater sees that you're about to pass his kennel, he presses up against the door and gently wags his tail, hopeful someone will take the time to meet him. Is that person you? If you'd like to meet Tater, come on by the Center during our open hours or reach out to his friends on the adoption team at adoption lynchburghumane. Tater would also LOVE a break from the shelter, even if it's just for a weekend! He's dog friendly, house broken, and honestly would just love to hang with some people and catch up on his beauty sleep. If you'd like to give Tater a much needed break, reach out to our foster team at foster lynchburghumane. French Bulldogs for sale in Virginia can live for 14 years or more in some cases, but they are also at risk of several health issues. They like to play, too, so they'll be happy to have a few toys around the house and can have a lot of fun with little children, in particular. Maybe you have your heart set on a Chihuahua Chihuahua Puppies for Sale. Teacup girl 2. History: Despite what its name may imply, the French Bulldog was developed in England. French Bulldogs for sale can command tens of thousands of dollars. All our puppies have been raised with lots of love and attention. This is often from close line breeding. Lilac and tan colour Absolutely beautiful! Will come with the following: -1st vaccination -Microchip -Health check done -5 weeks free insurance Mum and dad both pure pe Aida C. From there you can reserve your new fur baby online or give us a call and we will do it for you! If you have any questions in the meantime, please feel free to send us an email at Info HappyTailPuppies. Join millions of people using Oodle to find puppies for adoption, dog and puppy listings, and other pets adoption. French Bulldog puppies for sale West Virginia require about hours of exercise per day, so a medium-length walk or several short walks should suffice for these little guys. In a very world wherever a regular English bulldog prices many thousand greenbacks. Take a look at our featured puppies to find your next best friend. Epsom Individual All adverts 11 25 minutes Deposit. Teacup french bulldog puppies for sale are available. We specialize in creams, fawns, reds and pied Frenchies. We also provide a one year health guarantee. Browse thru our ID Verified puppy for sale listings to find your perfect puppy in your area. French Bulldog puppies in Richmond, VA. Our puppies comes from mindfully selected reputable breeders. We've connected loving homes to reputable breeders since and we want to help you find the puppy your whole family will love. These dogs are descendents of English Bulldogs, who were, unfortunately, used for violent "sports". Teacup French bulldog puppies that we have available. Yes, Teacup Bulldog French do make good family pets as they get along well with children of all ages and other pets. But don't worry! At Uptown, we'll always find a pup that meets your budget. The cost of each pup can vary wildly depending on appearance, breed, pedigree, and more. French Bulldog puppies in Henrico, VA. Teacup French Bulldog: Complete Guide. French Bulldog Puppies For Sale We offer some of the finest French Bulldog puppies on the market and have built our foundation around some of the most renowned pedigrees in the world. Because of the difficulty in achieving rare colors, unusual Frenchies can be more vulnerable to genetic diseases. Teacup girl 3. Beautiful happytail puppies for sale - Yorkies, Maltese, Morkies and more. This incredibly small male is 2 weeks today weighs 4. French Bulldog Teacup training French Bulldog Teacup may be a little challenging to train since they have a stubborn streak. Learn more about flat-faced breeds before buying a teacup Bulldog. Most of our adult French bulldogs have an adult weight of .Most importantly, delivery is available by our nanny service Contact us for more info. Because all breeding programs are different, you may find dogs for sale outside that price range. Olympia, Washington — Northwest Frenchies. French Bulldog. Micro Teacup Puppies For Sale. Distance: Aprox. Lux Male French Bulldog Puppy. The remaining balance is to be paid by 8 weeks old. A few ads are floating around for ridiculous amounts of cash. As soon as a litter becomes available, you will receive an email alert. Ask for Our 'Special Order' Option. They rarely bark and show very little aggression. French Bulldog puppies in Norfolk, VA. Teacup french bulldog puppies available Shipping Available. He loves playing with his siblings and napping. Call Us Today www. All Puppies For Sale. So, we provides our customers with the most adorable teacup puppies you can. French Bulldog puppies in Chesapeake, VA. Come see them in person and take one home today! I offer free delivery u… more. The cost of each pup can vary wildly depending on. French Bulldog puppies for sale in Virginia from trusted breeders. French Bulldog Puppies for Sale in Virginia. French Bulldog puppies in Arlington, VA. Welcome to FouFou Puppies. So, we provides our customers with the most adorable teacup puppies you can ever find. Nicole French bulldog Puppies offers luxury, one in a million. French Bulldog Puppies For Sale. Their snub noses make it hard to breathe, so they can snore and wheeze quite a lot, and they often develop bone and joint issues too. Happy puppies come from real, family breeders. They come with health guarantee and they have all age appropriate vaccinations and dewormings. View All Puppies Our Values. We've connected loving homes to reputable breeders since and we want to. Browse these French Bulldog rescues and shelters below. We are a small hobby breeder located near Roanoke, VA. French Bulldog Puppies for Sale in Virginia. We analyzed the prices of 35 French Bulldog puppies that were listed for sale in Virginia. In addition, Puppy City provided pet parents with high-quality pet supplies at their locations. I began trying to find a French bulldog puppy via the AKC website. Call Us Today www. Your life will be filled with joy and cheer. Our Frenchies are cared for by passionate Puppy Agents from the. French Bulldog, Virginia » Orange County. All the puppies at this breeder are registered and bred in a clean and healthy environment. We are located in Chesapeake, Virginia. French Bulldogs for sale in Virginia can live for 14 years or more in some cases, but they are also at risk of several health issues. French Bulldog Puppies for Sale near Virginia. Pudge is a purebred fawn and white French Bulldog female. All the puppies at this breeder are. We are expecting Frenchie babies the second week of March. This is the price you can expect to pay for the French Bulldog breed without breeding rights. Virginia, Richmond, we sell our puppies nationwide. Lots of fabulous French bulldog puppies for sale in Virginia are available from the FantasticFrenchies. French Bulldog, Virginia » Williamsburg. He is registered, microchipped, He comes with a health record and he is UTD on shots and deworming. Our Frenchies are cared for by passionate Puppy Agents from the moment they are born until they are ready to go to their new homes. Adorable Cream French bulldog available. French Bulldog puppies available! Search for a French Bulldog puppy or dog. If you are searching for French Bulldog puppies for sale in Virginia, then you will no doubt find your new best friend at Puppy City. Originally bred as mini-bulldogs in England, then brought to France, they have compact bodies, upright ears, and are the perfect partner for spending time at home. There are animal shelters and rescues that focus specifically on finding great homes for French Bulldog puppies in Moundsville, West Virginia. Gorgeous visual fluffy and fluffy carrier French Bulldog puppies! All our pups are AKC re. French Bulldog Puppies make wonderful family pets and are well-mannered. The life expectancy of a Frenchie is around years. She is intact and UTD on vaccines. Their snub noses make it hard to breathe, so they can snore and wheeze quite a lot, and they often develop bone and joint issues too. French bulldog puppies for sale in Virginia. Coming from a tradition of top quality breeding by one of the most experienced French bulldog breeders in the US, we offer prospective pet owners puppies that are cute and healthy. It was essential to search out a reputable breeder which is how we found East Coast Frenchies Club. Browse thru our ID Verified puppy for sale listings to find your perfect puppy in your area. We have males and females, Brindles, Creams and Fawns Available. Japacas We got our puppy, Harley in October .Check with the breeder for up-to-date information on puppy availability. Based on our analysis, the average price of the French Bulldog in. Virginia French Bulldog Classifieds Hoobly. Our farm is located on a acres with 5 acres of woods and open yard for the babies to exercise and socialize! Our choices for our family of frenchies surrounds great personalities in very small packages! Puppies Pandora and Antidote puppies Born. French Bulldog puppies for sale. Our hobby kennel, French Passion, specializes in breeding the best types of French bulldogs and is offering charming French bulldog puppies. Our Frenchies are cared for by passionate Puppy Agents from. We put our deposit down in August when she was just two weeks old. Here are a few organizations closest to you: Rescue .Originally bred as mini-bulldogs in England, then brought to. Each are 2, French bulldogs in Virginia — French Bulldogs for sale. French Bulldog Puppies for Sale. Email Us! Call or Text! Family raised French Bulldog Puppies, with health as our 1 prority. Call Us Today .Take some good advice and buy a French bulldog puppy. Contact me at xxx-xxx-xxxx if interested. French Bulldog puppy. French Bulldog. It's easy and free! We love dogs just as much as you do! We make sure that all of our puppies are raised and treated with lots of love, and have special attention paid to them. French bulldog breeder is located in Richmond, Virginia and we can also organize interstate. Frenchies are non-hypoallergenic and have short. We are located in Powhatan County in Virginia and have over seven years of breeding Bulldogs. All of our pups are raised in our home in their neo-natal intensive care unit, which is really our guest room turned pup haven and under foot and really give our pet pugs a run for their money! We've connected loving homes to reputable breeders since and we want to help you find the puppy your whole family will love. She is AKC registered, she is working on potty training, she is very good with the litter box, she k… more. French Bulldog Breeders In Virginia! French Bulldog Puppies for sale in Virginia Beach! Playful, energetic and so sweet. The puppies are champion grand-sired. Blue Diamond French Bulldogs usually mature weighing around pounds and inches to the top of the back.

Use tab to navigate through the menu items. We strive for excellence by breeding healthy, loving puppies with sound temperaments. We are a small family breeder and are passionate about Goldens. We believe healthy, happy dogs produce healthy, happy puppies. Our dam and sire are beloved members of our family. Our puppies are born in our home and they are raised with children, other pets and lots of love. Our family specializes in bringing your family joy through a purebred, AKC registrable puppy. We believe young puppies should have the opportunity to develop emotionally, socially and physically from the moment they are born. We do early neurological stimulation ENS from day 3 and continue socialization until they go to their forever homes. These exercises were developed by the U. Military for their canine training programs to give the dogs a superior advantage in life. There were five benefits observed in canines that were exposed to the stimulation exercises: improved cardio vascular performance heart rate , stronger heart beats, stronger adrenal glands, greater tolerance to stress and increased resistance to disease. About Us: About. One or both of this puppy's parents have undergone genetic testing. One or both of this puppy's parents are hip certified. One or both of this puppy's parents is OFA Heart certified. This puppy has had early neurological stimulation exercises. The sad truth is that many pet store purchased pups actually come from puppy mills. Basically, there is zero authenticity with pet stores. When it comes to adopting any animal from a pet store, there is an increased risk of unforeseen health or genetic problems. You also cultivate a life-long relationship with the breeder, meaning support is available to you anytime you may need it. With My Golden Retriever Puppies , you have the option to come and visit both the puppy and the breeder in person! Golden Retrievers are an adaptable breed, meaning they are better at adapting to seasonal changes and various types of climate than certain other breeds. Goldens sport a double-coat, which ensures that these sweet pups are able to tolerate slightly colder temperatures than their friends from other breeds. Your pup deserves better than that, which is why here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we ensure high-quality care is taken of your pet at all times. For more about the true price of a golden retriever puppy, you can read our full price breakdown here. Location Information for Delaware Customers Our home office is located in Ohio, but we understand that long-distance travel can be inconvenient. If you prefer to meet a breeder in person, they may be able to offer private visits at their home. Of course! Here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we value family and authenticity, which is why we always guarantee our pups through our 2-year genetic health guarantee. Like adopting a Golden Retriever from a pet store, there is an increased risk when adopting a pup from a rescue center or shelter as well. For example, pups purchased through a shelter or rescue center are far less likely to come with the kinds of health guarantees and reassurances that a breeder can provide. What type of Golden Retrievers are sold in Delaware? We have some good news! Ready to make your Golden Retriever dreams come true? Take a look at our convenient list of available puppies. How do I know which breeders to trust in Delaware? Our independent network of trusted breeders have already been pre-screened and verified, so that you can focus on what really matters: choosing your dream puppy. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. Questions about Golden Retriever puppies for sale in Delaware? We have answers. Give me an overview of Golden Retriever puppies for sale in Delaware. The more rare a puppy is, the pricier it becomes. What if the puppy that I want is from out of state? All you need to do is meet them at a major airport in Delaware. No more flights or long drives for you. Every breeder or business that wants to join our network are subjected to a strict evaluation process carried out by a dedicated team. We take a look at their experiences, breeding practices, facilities, as well as animal care to see if they meet the standards that were set on our Breeder Pledge which you can read about here. What makes Uptown Puppies better than other places? We screen everyone we work with to ensure that they are a legitimate and responsible business. We do this so you can find your dream dog faster! Why are puppy mills so terrible? This results in litters that get sick very easily or later develop problematic behavior. Sure, their offers of cheap Golden Retrievers for sale in Delaware are tempting but hardly ever worth it -- people who purchase from mills end up spending a fortune on treatments down the road. Can you help me find it? Though equally adorable, there are different types of Golden Retrievers. A dark Golden Retriever for sale Delaware can be quite rare and so is a Delaware Golden Retriever for sale with a reddish-gold coat. How does Uptown Puppies work? Uptown makes finding a Golden Retriever for sale in Delaware simple. Once you find the puppy that you want to bring home, contact the breeder to check its availability or when it will be ready to be rehomed. Discuss the pickup or transport details and ask your questions about the breed, if you want. How do I know I can trust you? Over the years, we have built a great relationship with the families we have served by helping them find their dream dog. You can read about their stories on our Reviews page! What kind of dog is the Golden Retriever? The Golden Retriever hails from Scotland and was created to be a gun dog or retreiving dog. It was bred to be agile, energetic, and most importantly, soft-mouthed. Today, the breed is popular as service dogs or friendly family pets. Ready to welcome a Golden Retriever in your home? What health issues are common with the Golden Retriever? Golden Retrievers are generally of robust health and can live up to the age of 12 years or beyond. They are lively and playful throughout their lifetimes. Like all big dogs, they are predisposed to certain health issues like hip dysplasia and some form of cancer. The good thing about getting your puppy from a reputable breeder is that properly bred dogs run a much lower risk of developing these health problems.

Golden retriever crate training tips Goldens are known for their sweet demeanor and incredible gentleness, so they seem like perfect candidates for crate training. The only way to find out is to try crate training for yourself, but we hope we can give you some idea of what to expect. Image used with permission by copyright holder Are Golden Retrievers easy to crate train? This makes their motivation for training — including crate training — naturally high! Is crate training good for Golden Retrievers? No matter what breed of dog you have at home, crate training can have many benefits. Not only does it give you the ability to leave your pet alone without causing you anxiety, but it also allows your golden to have a safe space when they need some quiet time. Rarely, crate training your puppy can exacerbate existing problems. Crate training may not be a good idea for some dogs with medical issues, especially those that require frequent movement or bathroom trips. Image used with permission by copyright holder Golden retriever crate training tips If you do decide to try crate training your golden retriever puppy, keep a few things in mind. Start young It can help to start crate training when your golden is a puppy. The sooner going in their crate becomes a normal occurrence, the sooner your pup will learn to tolerate and even enjoy it. Make it comfy Another way to entice your young retriever to enjoy — or at least tolerate — using their new crate is by making it as comfortable as possible. If your dog has a favorite blanket, toy, or bed, this is the perfect place to keep it. Some owners even have a special toy or treat that their dog can only have while in their crate, which helps build positive associations and keeps your golden as happy as possible. In fact, encouraging your golden with a treat or some praise as they enter may inspire them to come back to their new spot. Remember, the crate should be a safe place for your pup, never a place where they feel nervous or unsafe. Start short When introducing your golden retriever puppy to their new crate, make sure to start with short, frequent introductions. This will help avoid unnecessary anxiety from feeling lonely, as well as any accidents inside the crate. As a rule of thumb, Wag! A tired dog is more likely to rest instead of worry, which will make the experience more peaceful for everyone. Perhaps a certain routine is most effective, or maybe your dog just needs some serious love and praise to motivate them. Editors' Recommendations. When should I put my dog in a crate? Choose a room that you use often. Your dog may still be able to see what activity is happening around them, feel included, and settle more easily. On the other hand, if your dog has to leave everyone and go off to a remote part of the house, they may learn to associate the crate with a more traumatic and negative experience. Consider putting the crate on the same level of the house that they will be going out to the bathroom during potty training. Where exactly in your house you choose to put the crate may vary. However, most choose out of the way of main traffic and away from any hazards such as a fireplace or an area of direct sunlight. Why use a crate? Aids in bowel and bladder control Helps prevent destructive behavior Teaches your dog to settle Gives them a familiar place when they are tired Conditions relaxed behaviors Helps them feel comfortable if they have to use a crate at daycare or boarding Important training for travel and staying in hotels How long do I leave my puppy in a crate? Crate time is mostly based on their bathroom needs. For puppies, the general rule, when they are awake, is they can stay in their crate for one hour for each month of age. When Emma came home, she was two months old, so we only kept her in the crate for two hours at a time. Allow your puppy to go to the bathroom before going in their crate, which will help ensure all their needs are met so they can rest comfortably. Likewise, take them out to potty immediately when letting them out of their crate. She never barked, whimpered, whined, or tried to execute a grand escape. I used these 5 steps for crate training! Step 1 Give your dog treats around the crate. Do not try and contain them or control where they go. Open and close the gate near them. Allow them time to sniff and explore on their own and offer yummy treats. Step 2 With the door wide open, throw a high-value treat just a few inches inside the crate and let them enter and exit on their own. Repeat a few times. The theme is to avoid picking up and placing your dog in the crate. Allow them time to go in and out as they feel ready. Keep the treats flowing! Step 3 Keep the gate wide open and throw the treats halfway in the crate and then to the back of the crate. Step 4 Throw a treat to the back of the crate. Once all four paws are in, shut the door and open it back up! Allow your dog to come out of the crate and throw a party like they just completed the most impressive trick you have ever seen. Step 5 Gradually increase the time the door is closed. Keep praising them in an upbeat, high-pitch tone, offering their favorite treats. Important Note: Do not reach into their precious space and yank them out. Keep it a positive experience by letting them come out on their own or use treats to lure them out. What about when I need to leave my dog in the crate for a longer period? Hopefully, after completing the five steps above, your dog will be more comfortable going in and out of the crate. Dogs, especially puppies or high-energy dogs, often seek something to do. So if they go in the crate and everyone leaves, you start getting the behaviors of chewing on the bed, chewing on the side of the crate, barking, and scratching at the door to get out. A solution? Give them something to do! How to Let Your Dog Out of the Crate You may have devoted a lot of time and training to getting your dog to go into their crate. Training them on coming out of the crate can be just as valuable. Try this! Wait for calm behavior before opening the door. I do not recommend: Opening the crate when your dog is scratching at the door, barking, or whining. If you let them out now, you are reinforcing that when they bark, the reward is that they get to come out. Reaching into their precious space and yanking them out. You may also be interested in… About the Author Kevin Bubolz is the founder of Golden Retriever Life, an online community with a mission to spread smiles. Key Takeaways Crate training can help you provide a safe and comfortable environment for your Golden Retriever. Avoid rushing the crate training process to ensure your dog feels comfortable and secure. Please do not use the crate as a punishment or leave your dog in it for extended periods. Crate training can be more effective and enjoyable for your dog if you use consistency, positive reinforcement, treats, and toys. Make it more comfortable by providing toys, blankets, and treats. Step 2: Once your pup is at ease, close the door and bring toys and treats inside. Keep an eye on them and let them out if they become distressed. Step 3: Increase the time your puppy spends in the crate with the door closed gradually, and step away from the crate while they are distracted. Step 4: Extend the time you are away from the crate. Selecting The Right Crate Size To ensure your Golden Retriever is comfortable and has enough space in their crate, you need to measure them accurately. Golden Retrievers will typically grow to by 20 to 24 inches tall and up to 75 lbs, so you need to make sure to get them the right size crate. Follow these steps to determine the size of your dog: 1. Measure the height of your Golden Retriever: Have your dog stand up straight, Measure from the floor to the top of their shoulder blades. Add around inches to this measurement to determine the minimum height for the crate. Measure the length of your dog from the tip of their nose to the base of their tail. Remember to add 2 to 4 inches to the measurement. Measure their width by having your Golden Retriever standing with their legs slightly apart. Focus your attention on the widest part of their body, which tends to be the chest area. Once again, always add up to 4 inches to the figure. Finally, you want to consider the age of your Golden Retriever. For example, if you have a puppy, keep in mind that they will grow rapidly. You may want to choose a crate that will work for their adult size or opt for an adjustable crate with dividers, so you can gradually increase the space as they grow. Your Golden Retriever puppy will rapidly outgrow a nice crate that is not suited for an adult size. Now that you have all the measurements, you can refer to this Crate Size Calculator to find out the right and best dog crate size for your golden retriever. What Is Crate Training? Crate training is the process of teaching a dog to accept a crate as a familiar and safe location. Here are some of the reasons: House training: Using a crate, you can help your dog learn where and when to go potty. This will make house training more effortless and less stressful for both of you. Safe space: A crate can be a relaxing and safe place for your dog to relax and sleep. It can also help keep your dog out of a mess by preventing them from chewing on inappropriate items or getting into dangerous substances. Traveling: Whether driving or flying across the country, a crate can help keep your dog safe and comfortable. Additionally, many hotels and other accommodations allow crate-trained dogs. Separation anxiety: A crate can provide security and comfort if your dog gets anxious when you leave. Knowing they have a safe place to go can help alleviate their anxiety and make their time away from home less stressful. Overall, crate training is an excellent way to provide your dog with a secure and comfortable environment to call their own. You should start crate training your puppy when you bring them home. However, with patience and positive reinforcement, an older dog can be trained to use a crate. Crate training can be a helpful way to provide a safe and comfortable space for your Golden Retriever to rest and relax, but it should never be used as a form of punishment or confinement. When done responsibly and positively, crate training can be a positive and effective method for you and your Golden Retriever. However, with time, consistency, and positive reinforcement, you can help your dog get used to his crate. Add treats, toys, and blankets to the crate to make it more inviting. Increasing the time your dog spends in the crate gradually is crucial. Remember that crate training should be enjoyable for you and your Golden Retriever. You can quickly make your furry friend feel safe and secure in their crate with a little effort! Benefits Of Crate Training Your Golden Retriever Crate training can be super helpful for your furry friend and offer them a bunch of benefits, such as: Prevents Destructive Behavior: By giving your Golden Retriever a cozy and secure space, crate training can prevent them from chewing, digging, or scratching on household items. Potty Training: Crate training can teach your Golden Retriever to associate the crate with their den, making it easier to hold their bladder and bowels until you take them outside. Prepares Them For Travel: If you need to take your Golden Retriever on a trip, crate training can help them feel comfortable and secure while in transit. Crate training is a great way to help your Golden Retriever feel safe, secure, and comfortable while preventing destructive behavior and keeping them healthy and happy. Adult dogs: They can handle up to 8 hours in a crate, ideally with a break in the middle. Overnight: Many dogs can stay in a crate overnight without issues. Always ensure that any time in the crate is a positive experience for the dog, supplemented by regular breaks, exercise, and playtime outside of the crate. The shift is a delicate balance of patience, supervision, and positive reinforcement. Gradual Exploration Start by letting your dog explore a restricted, safe space under supervision. As comfort grows, extend the time they spend outside the crate. Monitor and Supervise Observe your dog closely during early freedom stages to prevent accidents or mischief. Ensure your home is dog-proofed to minimize potential hazards. Essential Amenities Keep their water bowl accessible. Designate a comfortable resting spot outside the crate. Positive Reinforcement Reward good behavior with treats or praise. This encourages adherence to house rules and reinforces desired behavior. Display patience and affection throughout their transition. With time and consistent guidance, your furry friend will seamlessly integrate into the household, striking a balance between freedom and behavior. Before leaving your dog alone in the crate, be patient and make sure your furry friend is comfortable and safe. For them, the crate should be a positive and safe space, and associating it with negative experiences can cause anxiety and fear. While some time in the crate is acceptable, providing sufficient opportunities for exercise, socialization , and bathroom breaks throughout the day is essential. Maintain a consistent routine and use the same commands each time you place your dog in the crate. Use Toys And Treats: Place toys and treats inside the crate to entice your dog to enter. This will make the crate a more positive and enjoyable environment for them to be in. Ensure your pup gets enough exercise and playtime throughout the day, so your furry companion can relax in the crate when the time comes. Excessive whining, barking, panting, and restlessness are all signs of stress in a Golden Retriever. If your furry friend exhibits these behaviors in the crate, they may be too stressed. Can I use a crate for my adult golden retriever? Yes, as long as it is appropriately sized and they are comfortable in it, you can use a crate for your adult Golden Retriever. Can you leave a puppy crying in the crate? Leaving a crying puppy in the crate is not recommended because it can cause separation anxiety and other behavioral problems. Instead, it is critical to gradually acclimate them to the crate and create a positive and comfortable environment. Should you put a blanket over a dog crate? Yes, draping a blanket over a dog crate can provide a sense of security and darkness, but ensure proper ventilation is maintained. What age is too late to train a puppy? Galen has been connecting quality Golden Retriever breeders with loving families since and is the founder of My Golden Retriever Puppies. He and his wife have four children and love spending time together, traveling lived oversees for 4 years , enjoying the outdoors and connecting Golden families. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. Read the full disclosure here. I know that, and eventually, your dog will know that, too. In this article you will learn exactly how to crate train a puppy or dog, no matter their age or level of previous training. You should read the whole guide before starting, to gain a complete understanding of the process, including the tips and troubleshooting at the end so you can find the speediest success. Why do we do this? We do this so we can use the crate as a place for short-term confinement, to keep our dogs and our belongings safe when we cannot supervise them. Then we can confine them short-term when needed, and they are happy to do so. Yes, they can even enjoy their time in the crate! In contrast: A properly crate trained dog will enjoy time in there happily and stress-free, even relishing the chance to get down to some occupational chew toy time or just to chill out and relax. Dog obedience is key to get this result! Benefits such as: Dramatically speeding up house training. Giving your dog a cozy and comfortable place to call their own where they can sleep and relax, overnight or whenever they wish. Giving you a tool to use for managing problem behaviors or to use for time outs to calm your puppy when needed. Giving you a safe way to transport your dog both by car and air if the need should arise. So they can enjoy trips away and holidays with you. Preparing your puppy for boarding at the vets, a kennel or at home to recover after medical treatment. There are many benefits to using a crate when used correctly, but they can also be misused. And there are also times when you should never crate a dog, regardless of their age or how much or little they can be trusted: Times And Ways That You Should Not Use A Crate There are a small number of dogs that suffer true anxiety and panic when placed in a crate. Under no circumstances should these dogs be crated…ever! The signs you need to look out for are: Any damage to the crate that show signs of attempting to escape. Urinating or defecating in the crate. The crate has moved at all while your dog is inside they must have made some frantic movements for this to happen. Never if your dog has sickness or diarrhea. Never when the weather is extremely hot. Never for any time longer than 5 hours. Not any time your vet prohibits it for medical reasons. Never as a way to punish your dog or for punishment. Use obedience training to correct bad behavior instead. Crating your dog for any of the reasons above is either inhumane, dangerous or purely selfish. Getting Prepared Before you can start crate training, you obviously need a crate. But you also need to make it a comfortable and happy place for your dog. Choosing A Crate Dog sleeping in crate There are many different sizes and style of dog crates available, from tiny inch crates all the way up to inch and bigger! XXL heavy duty dog crates. There are wire dog crates , plastic, fabric and even high quality wooden crates that look just like pieces of furniture. But the most important aspect of the crate you choose is its size: Too small and it would be cruel to expect your dog or puppy to spend time in there Too large and it loses the den like feeling dogs crave, not to mention they can use one end to sleep in while using the other end as a toilet, so it loses its effectiveness. For detailed instructions on measuring your dog for a crate and selecting the right size and type to suit your needs, please see my article: Choosing The Right Size And Type Of Dog Crate 2. Making The Crate Comfortable And Safe Dog In Soft Crate After choosing the right crate, you then have to make it a comfortable, safe and pleasant place for your puppy or dog to love spending time. For a detailed guide on where to place your crate and what you should put in it, you can read my article on: How to make a crate comfortable and safe for your dog. Make sure the crate is out of any direct sunlight, away from heat sources like fireplaces or radiators, and away from any possible cold drafts. Place soft, comfortable bedding inside. Place 2 or more chew toys inside to keep them occupied and develop good chew toy habits. If you have a wire crate, cover it either with a purpose bought crate cover or an old blanket or towel. Following the above 5 tips ensures the crate is a nice comfortable place for your dog. These pose a risk of choking if they happen to snag on anything, so no collars or leashes allowed. Your dog or puppy must be completely naked when crated. You must not rush through and you must make sure you are successful at each stage before you move on to the next, otherwise you could end up causing your dog or puppy to hate the crate by leaving them crated before they are ready. This unfamiliar box can be scary! The ultimate goal is for them to use it voluntarily. So the first task you have on the journey to crate training your puppy or dog is to form in their mind an association between the crate and all the things that they enjoy in life, so they see the crate as a good thing. Fail at this and you could saddle yourself with a dog who hates the crate, refuses to use it and maybe even fears it which can be a very hard thing to undo. So how do you go about achieving this? Technique 1: Magically Appearing Toys And Treats Set up the crate before you bring your dog home or if you have an existing pet, assemble the crate without them seeing so it just magically appears. Now let your dog or puppy into the room. So what should you do? Just act as you normally would, do what you would normally do. Play with your dog or puppy, or sit and watch TV, just act normal. Hopefully they will investigate this new thing in their world, enticed by the treats around and inside it, but also out of plain curiosity. Just draw no attention to the crate at all. Every dog will eventually at least eat the treats around the crate, if not the ones inside. This has the effect of the most prized things in their life being magically conjured up by the crate. Do this for a couple of days or more before you start crate training, and then occasionally for the few weeks after starting so your dog learns to love the crate and what it provides. You should find after a very short time they venture into the crate on their own just to look for some goodies, all without any encouragement from you. NOTE: Any treats you give this way have to be subtracted from their daily food portions or they will be overeating. And I say to do this just for the first few days and then only occasionally because to help house training you want your puppy eating on a schedule to promote defecating on a schedule, not eating at random times and pooping at random times. Feed these meals inside the crate. At first, place their food bowl just inside so they only have to poke their head in to feed. Then after the first couple of times, place it half way into the crate. After a couple of times of this, place it all the way at the back. You might be successful with this right away, or you may have to place it at the front for a few meals over a few days. Some dogs confidence builds quicker than others. Eventually and not before too long you should find your dog expectantly running over to and maybe even into the crate every time they see you holding their food bowl. After a few days of magic appearing treats and your dog eating dinner from the crate, basically once they are used to the crate and associate good things with it, we are ready to start crate training. When you do release your dog you do not want them bolting out and bumping into you, particularly important if you have a large dog such as a Golden Retriever that can easily bowl you over on their way past! You want them to reliably leave the crate when you ask. You can only achieve these three things if your dog understands that they must stay inside until told they can leave, or must leave when they hear the cue word. Choose whatever words you like, just be consistent. You do not want to spook your dog at this stage. Sit close to the crate armed with some high value treats, show them to your dog and then throw one inside the crate. Move away so they can easily exit and just stand patiently and quietly waiting for them to do so. Repeat this 8 to 10 times then take a couple of minutes break. Then do another set of 8 to .Yes, for real. Repeat this whole exercise a few times over the course of a day or two until your dog is comfortably, happily and reliably going in the crate when you throw in a treat. Training your dog to do this is a huge step! Make sure they really are confidently going in to get the treat before moving to the next step. And remember to use your cue words every single time so they quickly learn them. Step 3: No Treat For Free! The next step is to ask your puppy or dog into the crate before you treat them. Make them work for the treat instead of using it to lure them into the crate. To start, do 2 or 3 exercises of throwing a treat in and using the cue word as they go in to get it. When they do, give them a treat or two while you praise them profusely. Then use the cue word to leave and praise them when they do. Repeat this 8 to 10 times, take a couple of minutes break, then do another 8 to 10 before finishing up for this session. Repeat this step many times over the course of a day or two until you are certain your puppy or dog truly understands the commands and is happy to both go into and leave the crate on cue before you move to step 4. Now, many of you will have a dog at this stage that goes in, gets the treat or their toys and cannot wait to get back out again. But some will already be sitting, laying and sleeping in the crate of their own accord. Regardless though, what you want to achieve is your puppy or dog to sit and lie in the crate on cue, which is different to doing it of their own accord. Begin this just a couple of days after getting them home because they need to understand the cues outside of the crate before you can hope to have them follow the commands inside it. Other things you should have been doing before this step are: feeding your dog or puppy their main meals inside the crate occasionally leaving stuffed Kong toys in the crate this gets them used to spending time in there, usually in a sitting or laying position this will have made things easier Now, run through 2 or 3 repetitions of steps 2 and 3 before you start step 4, always remembering to use your chosen cues! Next, when your dog is inside the crate: Simply cue them to sit, praise and reward them profusely when they do. Then ask for a down and do the same. Then cue them to leave the crate before repeating the exercise. Try this 8 to 10 times before a few minutes break, then repeat for 8 to 10 times more. Repeat this whole step a few times over a day or more, but as you repeat the exercises, ask them to stay sitting or lying down for longer periods before you release them. And you should vary the duration to keep them guessing what it takes to earn a treat. Try just 1 second, then 5, then 2, then 10, then 3 and so on. Try to stretch the time out over a few practice sessions. Remember to be gentle and that your tone of voice throughout training matters. As always: Start with 2 or 3 repetitions of the easier steps first, going through steps 3 and 4 before trying to close the door. When ready: Cue your dog to go into the crate, praise and treat them, then ask for a sit, praise and treat and then slowly close the door. You ask for a sit because this position is automatically a more calm and relaxed position than standing. Continue to praise your dog and give a couple of treats through the closed door for remaining calm and sitting. Then open the door, and cue them to leave the crate. If your dog looks fearful or panicked when you close the door some will! Start by closing the door just part way for a few repetitions, then half way for a few, then most the way before finally closing it fully. This may take one training session or a few over days. Are you ready to move on? Once your dog is happy to sit a few seconds with the door closed, begin to latch it. Praise and treat for calm, then release the latch and open the door. For a training session, do 8 to 10 reps, take a few minutes break and then repeat. During each set, vary the time they have to stay calm and sitting, 3 seconds, then 10, then 4, then 15 and so on. You should aim to extend the time they stay calm and sitting with the door closed to a full minute before moving on to the next step. Again, this could take an afternoon, or it might take a few days. Go at your dogs pace and never force things. The base is serving as a staging facility for hurricane relief operations. Air Force photo by Master Sgt. Jack Braden Once your puppy or dog can sit calmly in the crate with the door closed for a full minute, the next step is to start moving away with the ultimate aim of being able to leave the room. First of all, perform a few reps of steps 4 and 5 as a warm up, remembering to always use your cues. Next, follow these steps: Cue your dog into the crate, close the door, latch it, praise and reward them and take a couple of steps backwards away from the crate but still facing it. Then return, praise and reward. Open the door and cue your dog to come out. Do this exercise 8 to 10 times, then take a few minutes break and repeat. For each repetition, mix things up: Try walking away a different distance in a different direction, but remaining in the room. First 2 steps backwards and pause 5 seconds before returning, then 4 steps to the side and a 15 second pause and so on. Work up to walking right to the exit or the wall and pausing for a full minute. Next, you will want to amp things up even more: Perform this exercise while you actively walk around the room, looking busy doing other things, but return to praise and treat your dog often. Tidy some magazines, rustle through a drawer, just look busy doing other things a few times in the house. Then, go even farther: Perform this exercise but back yourself up to the exit of the room and leave for just a couple of seconds before returning and heading to the crate to treat and praise. Do this a few times. The time this takes and the success you have will vary from puppy to puppy and dog to dog. Always stop at 10 repetitions max, and never more than two batches in quick succession followed by a big break. Otherwise your dog will get bored and the training is less effective. Now you just need to start increasing the time they are happy to spend time alone. Before you begin, something that goes a long way toward helping is to make sure your puppy or dog is well exercised before asking them into the crate. Why is that? A tired dog will be far more willing to relax and chill out for a length of time, compared to one who is full of energy and keen to play or wanting attention! After exercising them, the first step is to increase the time they are happy to spend in the crate while you are still nearby. To achieve this: Crate feeding: Feed your dog in the crate, or give them a stuffed Kong toy or good tasting bone chew toy. Hang out nearby: Ask your dog into the crate, give them their food or the toy, then close the door and take a seat nearby to read a book or a magazine. Engage occasionally: Every now and then, give them a further treat and praise, then go back to your book or magazine. Gradual build: Try to work up to a good half hour of quiet and calm in the crate while you read and they chew. Ignore them: After a couple of times like this, crate your dog or puppy with their meal or a stuffed toy and move around the room busying yourself, paying little attention to your dog. You want them to be eating their meal or chewing a toy in the locked crate while you do other things. Leave the room: After a couple of repetitions of this, repeat the exercise but move freely in and out of the room a few times, as well as occasionally sitting nearby. Disappear: Start by leaving the room for only 5 or 10 minutes, extending the time over a few sessions until you eventually achieve a full hour of alone time. As always, how long this takes will vary wildly from puppy to puppy and dog to dog. Go at their pace. It helps massively to succeed in this step if you only ever give your puppy or dog the bone chew toys or stuffed Kongs when in the crate and never outside of it. It builds excitement and anticipation, something to look forward to in the crate. Step 8: The Grand Finale! Wait for them to start chewing and then leave and come back into the room a couple of times. If they stay calm and pre-occupied with their chewing, simply leave the house. Then, do this: Go outside and walk to the bottom of your garden, just hang there for a few minutes and then go back inside and walk around your home for a couple of minutes before going to the crate and your dog. You want them to think that this is nothing, a complete non-event. And certainly do not go straight to them when you come back in. Remember: this even means nothing! From now on, practice alone time in the crate when you leave the house at least a couple of times every day, for varying lengths of time. Never make a fuss of any sort before you go, never make a fuss on your return. Over a few sessions, build up the time you are out of the house with your dog in the crate to a couple of hours as long as they are old enough to hold their bladder this long. You can now use the crate to keep your dog and your belongings safe when you cannot supervise them, and use the crate as a sleeping place for your dog at night. Always leave a few toys in there with your dog, and continue to repeat the exercise where you crate them with a stuffed Kong or chew toy if natural opportunities do not arise, just to keep them happy with the situation. If you have a dog that: Some puppies will take regular naps in the crate before you even start crate training. They might go on to show little interest or care about the door being closed. They might be super confident and happy right away with a little alone time. You might be able to crate train such a dog in just a few short days. Dogs like this can take many weeks to crate train: Some puppies may show fear of the crate and not want to go anywhere near it. Once carefully trained to go in, they might feel panic and fear when you close the door. You have to go at your own dogs pace because if you rush them you can instill dislike or even fear of the crate in their minds, and then it will take far longer than it ever should have. But many or most dogs will take to it quicker, and most puppies certainly will as they have no preconceived ideas, habits or emotions to overcome. When going through the steps above, if your dog excels at any stage you can quickly move to the next step. If they do not, if they show any fear or uncertainty, spend more time at a particular step until they are comfortable before moving on. Your dog will show you when they are ready to progress and you should go at their speed, however fast or slow that may be. They need to be able to: move around exercise their muscles enjoy some mental stimulation If they are regularly crated longer than this, behavioral problems will be the result, as well as the fact they have little in the way of a fulfilling life. In my experience this is a bit optimistic, all dogs are different and when a puppy is very young, this is certainly too long. This is with the exception of puppies from 8 to 12 weeks old who will need letting out once during the night. But after 12 weeks, they can last the whole night through. Crating your dog when you work full-time means two lots of 4 or more hours crated and this is a long time, so quality time, exercise and stimulation before and after crating is essential. Tips For Better Crate Training What follows are a few useful tips to keep in mind when crate training your puppy or dog. They will make the process easier and faster, while making sure your dog is comfortable and happy throughout the process: Always make sure you take your puppy or dog to their bathroom spot before you crate them for any length time. They will be uncomfortable and noisily complain with a full bladder…but rightfully so! Also take them the moment you let them out as they will usually be ready to go. Make sure the crate door is always open and your dog always has access to it so they can use it as and when they please. Most dogs will use it as a place to rest and this is a good thing. Always leave chew toys in the crate for your dog so there is something for them to do while crated. This will minimize boredom and teaches good habits of chewing on the right things. Continue to feed them their meals in the crate. Also, reserve special treats like bones and stuffed Kong toys for the crate only and never outside of it, so they really look forward to spending time there. Exercise your dog or puppy well before crating them for any length of time. A tired dog is one who is happy to relax and chill out. If you find your puppy nodding off and completely unable to stay awake this happens a lot! This will speed up their acceptance of the crate considerably if they snooze and find themselves waking up in there often. The worst thing you can do is force them in because chances are it will heighten their fear and make things even worse. Instead, break the task down into easier steps for your dog by employing some of the following tasks: Practice asking your dog to step in and out of cardboard boxes. First trimming the sides down to look like a small tray, then using further boxes and increasing height of the sides. Place bedding in the box and practice asking them to lay down. Some dogs may not like the roof aspect of the crate. Ask your dog to step underneath, even sit under there yourself and read a book while enticing them over for treats. Start with a big gap and a wide area covered, then lessen the gap between furniture in later training sessions to make it feel more crate like over time. If you have a plastic travel style crate airline crate then remove the top half and practice having them step in and out of the bottom half only. Start asking your dog to step into the bottom tray only. Then put on 2 of the walls for a couple of training sessions. Then three walls for a few sessions. Then the roof until finally the crate is fully assembled. Then cover the back third of the pens roof with a sheet and do the same. Then cover a half. Then remove a part of the pen to make the area smaller and ask them in to play with them. Whichever of the above you try, make sure an exit is wide open and easy for your dog to use for escape so they will feel less anxious. And take things very slowly, making sure they are visibly comfortable at any stage before taking a next step. After a few days maybe more of slowly getting them used to stepping into things that progressively get more and more crate like, you should be able to begin crate training. This type of reinforcement will not help the cries. Yes, you getting angry and telling your dog off will actually make the issue worse. This will train them to think that if they cry long and loud enough, you will eventually come and let them out. Not a good idea. Wait for 5 seconds silence before you approach, then give them a treat. You ruined it! Wait for at least 5 seconds of silence before you return, then treat them. Enough repetitions of this will teach them that silence gets rewarded and noise makes you go away. Why did they whine? You might want to go back a step or two in your crate training though. Make sure they are comfortably happy and silent in the crate, for a reasonable length of time with the door latched and you present, before you ever try to leave them alone. Young puppies cannot hold it through the night without having a potty break. But how do you know if the whines are because they need to eliminate or just crying for attention? For a puppy 8 to 9 weeks old, you will need to set an alarm to take them to potty twice during the night, at 2. For a puppy 9 to 12 weeks old, set an alarm to take them to potty half way through the night, 3. Make sure you do not feed them anything in the 3 hours before bed, take away water at least 2 hours before bed, and take them to their toilet spot to empty themselves as the very last thing you do before you go to bed. When you take them to potty, make sure you do so in silence. No playing, no words, no attention, otherwise they will learn that night-time is a time for play and attention. You obviously do not want this. They are very different things. But if when you leave your dog alone crated they show these symptoms: anxiety.

We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. We put these two on our puppies from day 1 to get used to the feeling of a leash and collar. We have some more detailed information on best leashes and collars for your puppy below. I would advise against trying during the first 2 or 3 days in your home as they have enough to deal with getting used to a completely new environment and family. But by getting them used to a collar and leash at 10 weeks old, they will be comfortable wearing them by 12 weeks when you can start to walk them outside. How long will it take to get them used to a leash and collar? Some take hours, some take days, most will be comfortable by the end of 2 weeks as long as you take care to introduce them to it methodically. I have two highly informative buying guides for choosing the right size and style of leash and collar for every situation that you can find here: How to choose the right collars and how to choose the right leash. Otherwise it will be too heavy and uncomfortable. Choose a small, lightweight collar. The lighter it is, the easier it will be to get used to. Choose a wide, flat collar and not a thin round one. So get a wide flat collar, but one that is as light as you can find. Choose a collar with quick and easy to use clips and not a buckle fastening. You need to get the collar on and off as fast as possible and not have to fiddle with it. This makes the experience is as stress free as possible. Opens in new window. Be patient. It may take hours, it may take a couple of weeks, not all puppies learn at the same speed. So be patient and eventually they will get it. Try to act as though wearing a leash and collar is no big deal and is completely normal. Calm energy from you promotes calm energy in your puppy. They can become snagged on things and cause strangulation. For a puppy that constantly chews on the leash, spray it with Tabasco sauce, bitter apple or one of many other pet-safe bitter-tasting sprays available to deter their chewing. What you want to do is the first time you put it on, leave it on for just 5 minutes then remove it. Repeat this every half hour or 45 minutes for the first couple of days. Then leave it on for 10 minutes in each hour for the next day. Then 20 minutes in each hour the next day, and so on until you can leave it permanently on. By day 6 or 7 most puppies are used to their collar and comfortable wearing it for hours at a time. A puppy will learn at their own pace. To have the best chance at the quickest success, use the following tips and techniques. Any tighter than this is uncomfortable for your puppy and may even restrict their breathing. Any looser than this and they may be able to slip it off. This is why a plastic clip fastening is best as you can do it in a second. Some will remain quite calm rarely! A few will go absolutely crazy, scratch at it, roll around and make a huge fuss. You need to ignore their struggling. Just ignore all the fuss. To help combat this, you can use the power of distraction. Put the collar on before you feed your puppy one of their meals. Or put it on and then offer to play with them and their favorite toy. Also: You should only take the collar off when your puppy is calm and relaxed. Obviously you want to avoid this. So use food, training or play to distract them and get them into a calm state before you remove the collar. Then they will offer calm behavior to get it. You have to wait for calm. And you should also avoid giving treats when you take the collar off. Now, once your puppy is comfortable in a collar, you can move on to training them to get used to a leash. How To Get Your Puppy Used To A Leash ikostudio The following tips will get your puppy used to a leash and lay a great foundation to build upon for future leash training. You will learn to avoid developing bad habits that lead to pulling later on and develop good habits that help in future training. First of all, make sure your puppy is comfortable and confident wearing a collar, then in a secure and familiar room of your home you can attach a leash. As with the collar you want to almost ignore them. No encouragement, laughing or telling them off if they chew at or try to remove it. If the need arises, you can calm your puppy by using distraction. Call them over to you, ask for some obedience commands or offer them food or a toy and it will redirect their focus and attention away from the leash. Leave it laying just outside of their confinement area where they can see it but not get at it and use it as a chew toy, or place it near to their food bowl when eating so they can see it but will be too busy eating to want to play with the leash. We want them seeing the leash around to learn its nothing to fear, without being able to play with or chew on it. A good tip is to practice this from the minute you get your puppy home, a couple of weeks before ever attempting to attach the leash. Now you can start to pick up the other end. Instead, hold the leash and follow your puppy around, keeping the lead slack for them as you both go. It pays to have a pocket full of treats so if this does happen you can grab their attention and lure them toward you with a treat. You should practice this a few minutes every hour for a day or two. The first few times you lead them, have a treat in your hand or one of their favorite toys and use it to lure them around the room with you. Now put your puppy on the leash. Just encourage them your way you by calling their name and slapping your thigh. Make a HUGE fuss to make it a massive reward that they came to you. They will come eventually, just wait until they do and then praise and treat enthusiastically. Now repeat steps 1 to 4. Step 6: Repeat this exercise 5 to 10 times per session, each hour of the day and repeat for a few days until your puppy consistently moves toward you when they feel the slightest bit of pressure on the leash. This will not take long and once it is learnt it will benefit your future leash training massively! Step 2: As soon as they stop freaking out give total release of all pressure on the leash and give warm praise and a treat. This rewards them being calm. A few repetitions will teach them that outbursts get them nowhere and being calm gets the leash to slacken off and earns a treat. Step 3: Once your puppy has learnt to be calm to earn a loose leash, they have to do a bit more to earn their treat. Repeat this a few times. Step 4: Now only reward them for coming even closer. They will soon catch on to the fact that being calm and moving toward you earns praise and a treat. You can now follow the processes of stopping them pulling on the leash and leading them around the room as described earlier in this article. So try to avoid the following: Pulling on the leash yourself: This will achieve absolutely nothing. Additionally, dogs like most animals fight against restraint so when you pull, it just makes most pull harder. Also, your puppy pulls, they go forward. You pull back a bit, then eventually give in, they still go forward. So they learn your pulling is only temporary anyway and their pulling gets them where they want to go. Rushing forward to slacken the leash when your puppy pulls: This teaches the puppy that pulling works! When you snap or jerk a leash, you loosen it first, then snap it tight to startle a dog and get their attention. But when used incorrectly and too often, your puppy pulls, feels the leash go slack and then gets yanked back. Not good. We want them to think the pressure on the leash is totally released when they move toward us, so never add any back in although this is usually only a problem when using a long leash to be fair. Well, maybe this works to a degree. But by following the techniques described in this article, the process will be as stress free as possible, and you will have laid the foundations for training your puppy not to pull on the leash later, instead of them learning bad habits that you then have to break. Are you having problems getting your puppy used to his collar and leash? What techniques have your tried? Tell us about your experiences in the comment section below. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. These tips will also help you to advance your dog so that, eventually, you can trust them to be off the leash in a safe area. Don't release your dog until they can demonstrate knowledge and obedience on the long leash and in many different settings. To begin with, walk them in the house and in the yard. Dogs learn 'contextually and by repetition'. These hints will help you to become the pack leader. Be certain that this is only reason that your dog will follow you. Make time to walk your dog Whether you walk your dog in the morning or evening will be influenced by your program. Whenever you exercise your dog, the walk should allow for 'focused time' and 'free time'. Two leashes will facilitate this. If they are under 12 months old, take some water with you. Also take a back-pack and a treat belt available on Ebay. I recommend no more than thirty minutes of walking in total for a dog under 14 months old as their growth plates are not set until this time. Be careful of overly vigorous activity, particularly if you have an older but playful dog. I don't recommend running for more than very short bursts for the same reason. Healthy hips and elbows are critical for a healthy, active and long life. Use two leashes - a long leash approx 7m and a short leash approx 1m Start your walk with the labrador pup on a short leash. The short leash will help you to direct and guide the dog. This allows you to maintain full control over your dog. Set up your walk for success. Start by getting the dog to sit or at the least be stationary and under your control. As you begin, keep your dog behind your body alignment. Be patient and encourage your dog. Do not show aggressive frustration. This will only cause confusion and fear or aggression. If your dog is not complying, stop and reset. You are the master Walking in front of your dog demonstrates that you are the master or the pack leader. You should be first out the door. The dogs should exit the compound only at your command. This is essential whether you are walking 1, 2 or more dogs. If your dog controls the pace and direction of the walk, they are the pack leader. Your dog should be beside or behind you during the walk. Dogs learn contextually The next two hints are important training essentials. Firstly, labradors learn contextually and their training in not immediately transferable to a new environment. Using the same disciplines and routines, train your dog the same way in different settings. This will entrench your expectations. Correct immediately Secondly, a labrador has about a five second retention of information. After five seconds the dog has lost any association between your assertiveness and their behaviour. If they disobey you, you must correct them within five seconds or not at all. If the dog is disobedient or simply does not understand, reset and start again. The long leash I'm a big fan of the long leash. A long leash will help you to correct bad behaviour at a distance. After a period of training with the short leash, remove it and connect the longer lead. Keep the leash in your hand, releasing it slowly and progressively. As they master this, you can back away while the dog is 'sitting and staying'. Reward your labrador pup with vigorous affection and a treat. After this, you should allow them to wander and sniff around. All this time you will keep your dog on the long leash and under your control. Be sure that the free time is less than their focus time. During the socialisation phase, 8 - 16 weeks, you will need both leashes as you expose your labrador pup to other dogs. As you walk your dog, you will come across small and large dogs that are aggressive. Walking on either leash will give your complete control. And it will ensure safety at all time. You new labrador pup has no innate road sense. Walk them, getting close to roads. Expose them to vehicles so that they do not panic. Reward your dog for good behaviour. Remember that dogs register tones and frequencies, not words. Use higher tones to affirm, reward and encourage. You approval is the greatest reward for a Labrador. Direct eye contact without high vocal affirmation will be interpreted as aggression. Use lower growling tones to reinforce disapproval. Try to avoid 'No' as a command. It is too general and therefore confusing to the dog. Always reward and reinforce obedience to specific commands. Use food treats to begin with, however you must gradually phase them out. Your vocal affirmation and affection should be your longer term goal. As your dog maintains the proper behaviour, reward them with treats. Reward your dog after the walk I recommend that you reward your labrador pup after the walk. Let them have a drink firstly then give them a portion of food that is less than a meal but more than a treat. It will not take long for your dog to anticipate the whole experience. When you appear with the leashes, they will become very enthusiastic. If you adhere to these eight hints and maintain the discipline of your training, you and your dog will value and enjoy the experience. Finally, remember to pick up after your dog. Don't go on a walk without your poop bags on hand! Find a vet you can have confidence in. Pawling Chocolate and Black Labradors. Andorra and Spain I wouldn't use a front-fastening harness for a young puppy. They are generally used for stopping a dog from pulling, but don't help with training. Front fastener tend to either work by tightening around the dog as he pulls, making it uncomfortable to pull, which we'd call an aversive and most of us would choose to avoid. Or they work by preventing the dog from getting traction into the forwards motion, often by turning the dog slightly. If you have a problem with a dog pulling, and either have to have them on lead before they've been trained not to, or if you're physically unable to have the dog pulling you at all due to injury or somesuch, then they're fine. But in the case of a brand new puppy, I'd suggest that they're unnecessary, and you should be focussing on training him to walk without pulling from the get-go, which you can achieve perfectly well on a standard back-fastening harness. Since the puppy has no real weight to put behind it at this stage, you should be able to manage without the mechanisms in a front-fastener. I'd recommend looking at the articles on teaching your puppy to walk on a loose lead and start putting the recommendations into place immediately. Here are some articles that may help:. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. Then you get a reality check. Walking nicely on a leash is not an instinctive behavior, and your Lab is just as likely to try and pull you in whatever direction they choose. Until they start getting into their senior years, Labs are excitable, curious, and powerful animals. Labradors are well known as strong leash pullers. But, like any desirable behavior, your dog can learn and you can teach. If your Labrador pulls like a rambunctious plow horse, read on to find out how to get back on the straight and narrow. There are times when a dog will attempt to assert itself as the leader of the pack, and some people believe that pulling is just such an attempt. The simple truth is dogs are overcome with excitement and overwhelmed with sensory input when they get outdoors, especially someplace other than their own backyard. Over stimulation Before long, your dog is so caught up in seeing, smelling, exploring and peeing, that all training goes right out the window. Even the act of pulling itself can be rewarding if your Lab likes the feeling of a little extra exercise. Freedom and autonomy in the great outdoors! Now your dog knows that pulling on the lead pays off in spades. But once the association is made between the leash and going for a walk, it becomes one of the single most exciting objects in the world! Once all four paws are on the floor or the dog is sitting; whatever your preference then move to attach the leash again. If the bad behavior continues, you back off once more. Why leather leashes? Short Practice Sessions A simple way to preserve your patience is to keep the length of your training walks to a minimum. The more time you spend with your dog pulling you along, the more likely you are to become exasperated. Nothing good will come of that for either of you. You need to be in the right frame of mind to convey reinforcement to your dog. A good idea is to choose a short route in your neighborhood, and walk it repeatedly. A familiar walk is still a pleasant one, though considerably less stimulating. Your dog will be less distracted if he sees the same things repeatedly. Burn Off Extra Energy in Advance Dogs in general, and Labradors in particular, have a lot of energy and they need to expend it in some manner. Short walks will not be enough to keep them satisfied, and they may be inclined to try to make up for it by pulling extra hard. Have an exercise session before your training walks to help combat this problem. Have some fun throwing a ball around the yard, or get in a good game of tug-of-war before heading out on the town. I always figured playing toss with a tennis ball was enough, but three things sold me with the Chuck It. You can launch the ball further with less effort. Keep Up the Pace Being a fairly large breed, your Labrador will have no trouble outpacing you without much effort. Reward Good Walking You know from your other training sessions that your Lab loves treats! When the walk is going just the way you want, offer praise and a tasty reward. Do this frequently to keep reinforcing the good behavior. And make sure they are compact and easily chewed treats that can safely be eaten on the go. When your dog starts to pull, you stop walking! If your dog is already proficient at coming when called, even when there are distractions, this may be the method for you. This technique may be difficult for smaller individuals, the elderly, or anyone with a physical disability. Ask your dog to come to you and give the sit command. At this time, resume your walk. If they continue to walk along beside you, repeat your praise word and offer another treat. Keep doing this periodically. Should they start to pull again, come to a stop and repeat the first step. When they pulls towards an object, stop as you did before. Call them back and have them sit. Again, offer the word of affirmation, but do not give a treat. Instead, walk to the item they want to inspect and have let getting to the object be the reward. Load up your pocket with treats, or carry a treat bag on your belt. Keep several in your hand at all times while walking, and replenish from your reserve. Cut them up into smaller pieces to make perfect training treats! Every few seconds, pop a treat in their mouth. Should they start to veer off or get ahead and start pulling, the walk stops. As with the previous method, call your dog back to you and get them to sit. When they do, give praise and then resume the walk, once again with the treats held in front of the nose. After a bit of uninterrupted practice, say a week or so, stop carrying treats in your hand, but have them nearby. Keep offering them frequently. Begin offering treats less frequently; start by giving a reward every 5 steps or so, and then gradually space them out over larger distances. Be aware, this method should only be used if your dog is not wearing a head halter or slip lead. The idea of this technique is to surprise your dog when they reaches the end of the leash. First, start with a verbal warning cue for your dog when they are about to run out of slack. Give praise and a reward as you continue to walk. Keep walking in the opposite direction, and praise your dog as they catch up to you. Once your Lab is back beside you, resume walking in the original direction. Repeat this step as necessary. The idea is to teach your dog that walking too far ahead and pulling leads to an unpleasant sensation, and diverts the walk away from where they want to go. Use this method if positive reinforcement is not having the desired effect. Watch for signs that your dog is under extreme duress; cringing, cowering, yelping or any other outward display of fear or pain are clear indications that this method is not working. Desist immediately and try something else. Collar Tug Like the previous method, this technique also uses a bit of negative reinforcement, and should not be used in conjunction with a slip lead, or a head halter. Again, this should only be tried if positive methods are not proving fruitful. As before, when your dog is approaching the end of the leash, administer a verbal warning. The force of the tug will depend on the size of your dog, and it may need to be repeated before you really get their attention. In the case of my own dog, his neck muscles are far too strong to make this effective, and the same may hold true for your own Lab. Exercise extreme caution with this technique. Choosing a good collar and leash will help as you teach your Lab to walk nicely. The Classic Collar Of course a traditional collar is perfectly acceptable, either with a buckle or snaps. For a selection of classic collars recommended by us, please click here. Harnesses A harness is a good option, especially for anyone who has had difficulty walking a dog using a collar. Many dogs will respond to pressure around their neck by pulling even more in the opposite direction. Pull that one out at parties and impress your friends! Head halters and no-pull harnesses can be very helpful during training. They make your dog easier to control, and discourage pulling almost entirely on their own. Be warned, though, that they should not substitute for actual training if you really want your Labrador to learn to walk on a loose leash. While your dog will walk perfectly well when using this equipment, they are unlikely to repeat this behavior with a traditional collar. Choosing a Leash Make sure you give some thought to what leash to buy. When yours truly bought his first leash, the selection was based on color and not quality, a decision I regretted when my very eager puppy snapped the leash and made a run for it! This gives enough length to give your dog a bit of freedom, but keeps it short enough for you to maintain control and have them close enough to praise and reward. Click here to see a selection of leashes as recommended by us. Things to Avoid No decent dog owner wants to hurt their dog, and yet pain-inflicting devices are all too commonly used for training. As mentioned earlier, negative reinforcement can be helpful if used cautiously and sparingly. However, to use it as your sole method for loose leash training is not acceptable. Choke and prong collars deliver strong doses of pain to a dog in order to deter them from unwanted behavior. It is extremely difficult to control the amount of pain generated during a correcting move with such a collar, and the force delivered invariably exceeds the required amount. It is our very firm belief at Labrador Training HQ and in the dog community in general that these items are cruel and barbaric. Avoid them at all costs. The good news is the repetition can be fun and rewarding. You and your dog will get plenty of exercise and quality time together, and opportunities for socialization and training , too. Labradors are strong and energetic dogs, especially in their youth. They love to get out and explore, and this desire coupled with their devotion to their owners, make loose leash training, well… a walk in the park. Get out and enjoy! Are you having trouble with your Lab pulling on leash? What have you done to help get your dog to stop pulling? Tell us your experiences in the comment section below. A very good, 4-part guide with steps to follow to train a loose leash walk. I highly recommend checking this out! You might want to try some yourself? Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. Basic Dog Training How to Teach a Puppy to Walk on Leash The key to teaching a dog to walk on leash is taking it slow—and using lots of positive reinforcement. She is passionate about human-animal interactions, having founded the nonprofit Animal Assisted Professionals, which provides animal-assisted interventions, including animal-assisted therapy and activities. She has held roles in the pet industry that have included service and therapy canine training, rescue and shelter management, veterinary care, and animal behavioral consultation. In her free time she is passionate about providing animal-assisted interventions, training and preparing therapy dog teams, and spending time with her wonderful husband, charismatic daughter, two glorious dogs, and two very fluffy cats. Daily Paws' Editorial Guidelines Published on February 12, Whether you just brought home that tiny, fluffy bundle of puppy joy or you recently found your perfect canine match at the local shelter, every dog-owner relationship involves a great deal of time and effort dedicated to teaching important life lessons and skills. Our dogs are not born with the ability to comprehend human words and they certainly don't come equipped with the ability to walk nicely on leash. Walking on a leash is something every dog should know how to do. Not only does it allow them to journey about with you, their favorite human, but it also keeps them safe and protects other dogs and people, too. It doesn't matter if you live in the city or enjoy the quiet country life, your dog should always be walked on leash. Teaching them to walk by your side takes time, but with patience and positive reinforcement , you and your dog will be enjoying daily walks together soon. Teach a Marker A marker or bridging stimulus is a sound or hand signal that pinpoints the exact moment your dog did something that earned them a reinforcer a treat. A clicker is a great example of a marker and a conditioned reinforcer. If you don't have a clicker you can use a consistent word like "yes" or "good," or a hand signal like a thumbs up. But pick one and stick to it. Mark the behavior the second you see it. The more accurate and quick your mark is, the more effective your teaching becomes. Build a Positive Association Before he goes off on an outdoor adventure with you, your dog needs to feel comfortable and enjoy wearing walking equipment. This includes his collar, leash, and possibly a body harness. Be sure you are in a quiet, non-distracting area of your home like your living room. Start by giving your dog time to get used to wearing each item. Put his collar on while he plays in the house or goes outside to potty and each time you put it on, mark and reinforce by giving your dog a treat. Attach the leash to the collar for short moments throughout the day, being sure to mark and treat him as he moves a few steps while wearing it. If you plan to use a body harness , introduce it slowly, providing treats and praise as you place it over his head and connect the straps. Teach Your Dog to Give Attention It may seem as though you should just start walking with your dog but before you can move, you need to make sure he is actually paying attention, otherwise he may pull and dart about. Be patient and wait for your pup to offer you this is capturing even a tiny moment of eye contact or look at you—then immediately mark and reinforce. Repeat this frequently so that your pup understands looking at you equals treats. You can add a "cue" for attention, too. Say "look" or "eyes" right before your dog is about to look at you and then mark, reinforce, and praise. Start Moving by Backing Up This may seem counterintuitive, but the backward steps are a great way to begin moving without encouraging your dog to pull. With your dog wearing his collar and leash, take a few steps backward and as he follows you mark, reinforce, and praise. Gradually increase the number of steps backward you take. Start with two or three steps and then turn to walk forward two or three steps. Mark and reinforce him if he stays by your side. Practice With "Come" Teaching your dog to "come" while on leash is a great way to help prevent future issues or pulling or forging ahead. It also gives a good opportunity to teach your dog to come on cue without the risk of him running away. With your pup wearing his collar and leash, toss a treat just a few steps away from you. After he eats the treat and turns back around to face you, say "come" and quickly mark and reinforce the moment he moves towards you. Repeat this so it becomes a game of tossing a treat and then turning around to come to you for another one. Practice Taking a Few Steps on Leash Outside Once your dog has mastered the basics of leash training inside, you can begin to move outside, but be sure to find a place that has few distractions. Your backyard or garage are good options. Practice walking just a few steps and stopping and asking for attention. Mark and reinforce for moments of nice leash walking every few steps while in motion and anytime you stop, wait for their attention and then reinforce, too. Don't rush it! Baby steps, baby steps, baby steps. Gradually Increase Distance Slowly begin to move from your home to the neighborhood. Begin by walking the distance of just a house or two and gradually increase the distance as your dog masters the skill. Be sure to mark and reinforce constantly until your dog becomes better and better at this set of skills. It takes time to get good at coordinating the mark and treat delivering while moving, but after a few days of practice rest assured you will be a pro. Keep with it and stay positive! Remember that puppies have short attention spans despite their seemingly endless amounts of energy. Don't expect a young dog to walk long distances with you until they are more mature and grown. Be patient and allow your dog to sniff, to pee on trees and bushes doggie email , and to enjoy being outside with you. Walkies should always be fun, not a chore nor a time for perfect heeling. Was this page helpful? How to leash train a Labrador. Labradors can pull like trains Everywhere you go, you will see dogs on leashes. Others have a rather different style. You will see their owners, hurrying along with one arm stretched desperately out in front. A stressed hand grips an outstretched leash, and at the end of it a dog fighting for air. Front feet scrabbling at the pavement, this dog is intent on choking himself! One way to help resolve this unpleasant situation, is to teach your dog to walk on a loose leash. And you can do that by waiting them out. Where you just stand still and refuse to move forwards while the lead is tight. But this can take a very long time with a determined puller. Please avoid retractable leashes. Make sure the leash is attached to a body harness , which is much safer for a strong pulling dog. Later on, your dog will not need frequent feeding to maintain his loose leash, but to begin with generosity is the key. An event marker A clicker is used to accurately tell your dog exactly when she did what you wanted her to. It is a very helpful aid in the training process. But you can equally use your voice. If you have to drive your dog to a deserted car park or quiet street so be it. A hard surface tarmac or paved is ideal is helpful as it enables the dog to quickly find and pick up the treats. How often to train your dog Set aside at least ten minutes for this training and do it at least twice a day. Three or four times a day is even better. Try not to miss a day, at least for the first week How to leash train a Labrador Take your dog to your chosen training location and attach the lead to his collar or harness Step 1: Start Set off walking forwards Step 2: Stop As soon as your dog to gets to the end of the leash this may be almost immediately , stand still Step 3: Wait Now wait for the dog to give you some attention. Drop a treat just behind you for him to collect as he reaches you. Start walking forwards Step 1 again as soon as he has gathered his treat from the ground. The dog will probably then charge past you to the end of the leash. You know what to do. STOP walking. Make like a tree. Pause, gather your thoughts. Rinse and repeat the steps from 1 through 4. Make a little kissy noise with your mouth for example. As soon as he looks at you drop a little food on the ground then turn away from him. The idea is that when he eats the food he will be in the right position just behind you, and that this position will become attractive to him. Start associating a kissy noise with food, at home, in the garden, and elsewhere. Your rewards may need to be upgraded to something more attractive and smelly. He should be hungry and eager to eat. Making progress with loose leash walking The first few sessions will be a bit boring. There will be waiting, and hanging about. Hang on in there, you need to be determined. Just focus on the fact that you have simply had enough of letting your dog drag you around. It may take three or four sessions before the dog figures out there is no point in charging past you, starts to pay you more attention, and watch where you are walking. But these occasions will become fewer and further between. And you will be able to walk longer distances and get to where you want to go, without stopping and changing direction every two seconds. All you have to do is stand firm when your dog gets it wrong, and reward him when he gets it right. You can do this. It takes a little patience, but you can do it. Introducing distractions to loose leash walking Just like any other skill you teach your dog, you need to start in a distraction free area. But there comes a point, when the dog has really grasped what you are teaching him, when you need to introduce some distractions into your training. Dogs eventually have to learn to walk past other dogs, people and the neighborhood cat, without charging about like lunatics. It helps to start with any distractions at a distance and to set up training exercises where it is easy for the dog to win because you have some control over the other participants. You can do this with friends or at a training club. Write it down At the end of each session, I suggest you make a note of how you got on. Rewarding good behavior As your dog gets better at walking on a loose lead, it becomes tempting to forget the rewards altogether. This is a sure way to see your efforts undone. Always carry a few treats on you when you are out with your dog. Reward him from time to time when he is being good. He deserves it. Before you learn how to leash train a Labrador This is a simple exercise designed to help people who are struggling with a dog that pulls them around on a lead. This is because every forward movement your dog makes on the end of a tight leash is a reward for him an reinforces the pulling behavior. There are various ways to tackle this You can drive your dog to his exercise area You can stop exercising the dog outside of your own garden whilst you train him to walk to heel You can use an anti-pull device whilst you are not training him Just remember, you can teach an old dog new tricks. And if you stay calm and patient, your Lab will get there in the end too.

They thrive on human interaction and love to be involved in everything their family is doing. Miniature Poodles are quick learners and excel at obedience training. Very eager to please their people, they are a great choice for first-time dog owners. Mini Poodles are usually good with other dogs and children, but they can be a little bit reserved around strangers. With proper socialization from a young age, your Mini Poodle puppy will learn to interact well with people outside of their immediate family. Expect your new for-ever family member to have a lot of energy and need plenty of exercise. They need an outdoor walk every day to keep calm and centered. Check out this best-selling dog leash with a comfortable handle! While walks are a must, the Mini Poodle is not suited to be an outdoor dog. This breed has a long history as a circus dog, so this dog is a favorite choice for owners who want an athletic puppy who is open to learning tricks. Some Mini Poodles are territorial and highly excitable, but patient and consistent training can usually modify this behavior. For all of these reasons, finding homes for our Mini Poodle Puppies for sale is never challenging. Minatare Poodle Health Considerations The average life span of the miniature poodle is 13 — 15 years. Use ear cleaner wipes and eye wipes regularly to remove crust or discharge. All breeds of dogs should be brought in for regular vet checkups. Miniature Poodle Coat The Mini Poodle has a hypoallergenic coat which is excellent for allergy sufferers. Matting eventually causes skin irritation. If your Poodle has a long coat, you should brush out your Poodle every day. Check out this popular dog slicker brush and detangling comb that is perfect for your Mini Poodle. While Miniature Poodles are a fairly low-shedding dog breed, they still need coat care. Many Poodle owners opt for a short cut or trim to minimize grooming needs. When a shorter cut, you can reduce brush outs to a few times a week and get the coat trimmed up every weeks. Mini Poodles Puppies For Sale. Life Span Did You Know? The Poodle is one of the oldest dog breeds and was originally developed in Germany to hunt waterfowl. The Poodle may have originated in Germany, but they are much-loved by the French. So much so that the Poodle is the national dog of France. The Miniature Poodle is slightly more recent. This Mini version likely originated in France. The Mini Poodle has all of the same characteristics as a Standard Poodle; they just come in a smaller package. The Miniature Poodle is one of the smartest dog breeds. On top of their intelligence, they are also known to have a cheerful disposition and a sensitive nature. They get along great with children. Due to their small size, they can be easily injured by rough play or accidental falls that can happen with younger children. Because of this, they may be better suited to a home with older children. Younger children should be fine as long as they are taught how to properly interact with a small dog and interactions between young kids and puppies are closely supervised. Although they are considered part of the Non-Sporting Group, some facts about Miniature Poodles are that they are versatile and athletic dogs that are also quite playful. Provided they are well-socialized, they get along well with other dogs and tend to do well with strangers. They do tend to be protective of their home and can be suspicious of strangers coming up on the property. They are known to bark to alert you of strangers coming to the house. This makes them a good watchdog, but overall, they are more interested in making friends. This dog breed is highly adaptable. The Miniature Poodle does well in any type of home, including apartments, and fits in with just about any family type. They do well in most climates, but, as with many dog breeds, they are sensitive to heat and extreme cold. Because Mini Poodles are people-oriented, they do not like being left alone and will not handle being left alone for long periods of time very well. Good breeding practices make a big difference in the health of puppies. Reputable breeders will screen their dogs to make sure they are not passing preventable issues to puppies. Make sure you ask the breeder about the health and genetic history of both parents and about any health tests or clearances that have been done. Miniature Poodles are highly intelligent, easy to train, and eager to please, which makes them a good fit for owners of any experience level and one of the best dog breeds for first-time owners. They are a people-oriented breed and are sensitive to moods and tones of voice. They do not respond well to harsh training methods or harsh tones as they take it personally, get their feelings hurt, and lose respect for you. A Mini Poodle tends to respond best to consistent training that is fun and focused on positive rewards. A Mini Poodle is one of the fluffiest dog breeds and will have a curly or corded coat that can come in just about any color. Although this dog breed has a low-shedding, hypoallergenic coat, their coat still needs a lot of grooming. They need to be brushed daily to prevent tangles and matting. They should also be professionally groomed every 4 to 6 weeks to keep their coat healthy. Miniature Poodles are high-energy dogs that require a good amount of exercise each day. Daily walks plus some playtime and other activities are usually enough for them. When puppies finish growing and developing, they often enjoy games of fetch and other activities like swimming, hiking, or jogging with their favorite human. Mini Poodles also tend to be great candidates for several dog sports, like agility, tracking, obedience, retriever hunt tests, and more. Just make sure to visit the vet and get your dog cleared for these activities before you jump in. Fully-grown Miniature Poodles usually stand inches tall and weigh pounds. Mini Poodles generally live for years on average. The Miniature Poodle was very popular among the French nobility. Featured Miniature Poodle Article. Thank you so much for my lovely toy poodle puppy. She's so fluffy, energetic and so much beautiful! We call her Annie. She is only the second day with us and already became a family honey! She loves running in the garden with our second dog Jerry. Jerry is quite jealous of her, but I think they will become best of friends in a few days I will send you more photos and videos in the evening With love. I just wanted you to know that they have become an important part of our family. They are very energetic and full of life we just love our new puppies. They are growing in to their dog body. I have included a picture of them. I will send you updates regularly. Take care! She got to hang out with me and my wife for about an hour before bedtime, and then she went to sleep in her new crate with no problems. Not a single peep out of her all night. She was then greeted by the boys at a. This morning, and loved them instantly! They have been talking, petting, and playing toys with her all day. Thanks so much for the wonderful pup, we just adore her. I have enclosed a couple of pics for you, and will send some more again soon. Our puppies are trained within home environment and as a result, all our dogs consistently demonstrate a delightful, intelligent and happy disposition. Money Back Guarantee.

By Whitney on January 5, This page may include affiliate links. If you click and purchase, we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Can she get groomed to help? However, you can actually start getting your puppy full-body groomed whenever your groomer believes the pup is ready. They recommend doing this to gradually introduce puppy to the grooming experience, so they can get used to the process without too much stress. Did you know? Poodles get their feet and face shaved for the first time before they leave their mom, usually somewhere between weeks of age. Your groomer will be the one to let you know when they are ready. Actually, private salons all have their own rules. The week thing is just a general observation, so be sure to call around to double-check. You might get lucky! Also, it is said that Petsmart does not require rabies shots in dogs under 4 months, and will take puppies as early as 8 weeks with the recommendation that they have at least rounds of puppy shots to help keep them safe while in the salon with other dogs. This reduces the risk of your puppy contracting diseases from other dogs. This is great for helping to introduce grooming to your puppy as young as possible. The nail trimming is especially important so your puppy can get used to people handling his feet, as well as to stay on top of ideal nail length. Related Content. Conclusions I asked the experts — when to start grooming a Goldendoodle? While I had a fair idea of when I would first start grooming a Goldendoodle puppy — I decided to ask the experts! I sent the following short survey to four Poodle Mix breed groomers, two Goldendoodle breeders, and 8 actual Goldendoodle owners. I then ran a poll on a Goldendoodle owner Facebook group and verified the results were consistent. There were four simple questions that we asked to find out when to start grooming a Goldendoodle Puppy. How old should a Goldendoodle be for first grooming What age should a Goldendoodle start being shampooed? What age to start cleaning Goldendoodle ears? How often Does a Goldendoodle need to be trimmed in its first year? I then asked for any special comments, some of which you can see in the results below, supporting what we found. As always thank you to our experts — we are thrilled our panel was willing to answer our surveys and help us out. Here are the results! The experts mostly agreed that a Goldendoodle should be first groomed around 5 months of age. A pie chart of the expert survey results showing how the experts recommend when to start grooming a goldendoodle puppy. The breeders trended a little higher, recommending first grooming around 7 months of age. The owners and groomers settled at 5 months. Everyone mostly agreed around 5 months of age is the first time to groom a Goldendoodle. The primary reason for this is that around this time most Goldendoodle will be shedding their puppy coats. It is also around this time that you will get a clearer picture of what type of coat your Goldendoodle actually has. This will influence the frequency and cost of grooming over the lifespan of your Goldendoodle. Straight coats shed a lot more but are lower maintenance. Wavy and curly coats are low to no shedding but require more frequent grooming. There are lots of sounds, sights, smells and touching that a Goldendoodle needs to get used to. The earlier the better they feel about grooming when older. This is great because Goldendoodles can get stinky. There were four options to select from. Many owners use puppy shampoo for the first year or two. This is especially true if they have a super cute teacup or toy miniature Goldendoodle. It varies dog to dog! Any Poodle Mix Breed needs to be acutely aware of the issues that our awesome mixbreed dogs inherit from the Poodle. The shape of the ear canal and hair that grows can lead to troubles and ear odours. Cleaning a Poodle Mix ear canal is something that can easily be done at home. Goldendoodles will require regular grooming and upkeep. You can trim your Goldendoodle at home! If you feel up to it — it is a worthy challenge! Even if it is not going to be a regular thing — I recommend everyone learns how to do a Goldendoodle puppy cut. With that said — our awesome Groomers do an amazing job — and are usually worth the money if you can spare it! They can be magnificent at keeping your Goldendoodle calm and enjoyable. Depending on the generation and coat type of your Goldendoodle , this can be subtle. For others, it is a very noticeable change. Our experts recommended 5 months and older for grooming because Goldendoodle tend to be in the start of the puppy coat transition at this point. This only refers to a whole body trim, as a hygienic and comfort trim of the paws, eyes, and around the butt are safe and common. The change is so minor in some wavy coated Goldendoodle that you will not even notice it. For straight hair or curly, it can be a significant difference in softness. Cutting the Goldendoodle puppy hair at the right time around 5 months plus gives the easiest foundation for soft fur and easy maintenance. An exception is if your Goldendoodle just ends up too dang shaggy before they hit 5 months. Some Groodles just have fast growing hair! It is unavoidable for such dogs to have a full body trim earlier. Conclusions You should start grooming your Goldendoodle early to get them used to the procedure. The first full groom will come around 5 months of age. This is an ideal time as the Goldendoodle puppy coat will be shedding. A Goldendoodle puppy cut and coat trim will keep your puppy looking and feeling fresh. It is very possible to figure out the type of Goldendoodle coat early using these tricks. You can wash a Goldendoodle puppy with shampoo and conditioner from a very early age. You should only wash when indicated till the dog is older. For puppies only wash when there is dirt or bacteria. Choose the best shampoo for Goldendoodle puppies based on reviews and testing. You can safely groom a Goldendoodle at home, from cleaning their Poodle Mix ears , right through to full haircuts and groom following online guides. For more information about Goldendoodles, consider reading our comprehensive Goldendoodle Vs Labradoodle breed guide. If you enjoyed this article, consider checking out our extensively researched article about what do do if your Goldendoodle barks all the time. We figure out the causes, and find ways to minimise and eliminate problem barking behaviour. All from home, all for free. A Pinterest friendly image for this article. My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More. Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Every dog loses their puppy fur to grow in their adult coat. For Goldendoodle puppies, this poses a challenge. A quick solution to this is using a slick brush a few times a week. Here is one of our favorites. All of our Doodles of NC puppies are brushed from just a few weeks old so they grow fond of the one-on-one bonding time. Bath time! In addition to brushing, our puppies learn to love bath time. Using a tear-free or mild dog shampoo allows you to bathe your doodle as frequently as every week without drying out their fur. Earthbath All Natural Pet Shampoo is our all-time top pick. Dogs, in general, have sensitive ears. If their ears start emitting a strong odor, or your dog scratches their ears and whines, we recommend a trip to the vet to check for an infection. Mini goldendoodles can easily be bathed in the kitchen sink. For larger Goldendoodles a walk-in shower or bath tub with a shower wand works beautifully. Lather twice and rinse thoroughly! Then towel dry and brush the coat. To speed up the drying process, a hair dryer on a low, cool setting, can speed up the process. Trips to the Groomers A goldendoodle's fur grows quite rapidly. We encourage a few trips to the groomers a year to help trim up their coat especially around their eyes to help minimize madding of the fur and healthy coat growth. And, one last tip! It is gentle enough for their delicate skin, but also smells super clean and fresh. And, feel free to reach out to us with any other questions you have on providing the proper care for your Goldendoodle. Adding some conditioner can help remove tough mats. Daily brushing is the best way to prevent painful mats from forming. It also helps your Goldendoodle if they see the same person every time they go in for grooming. That makes it feel like going in to see a friend for a familiar experience. You see, every professional groomer, even at the same grooming salon, has their own routine and way of doing things. If your dog likes how a groomer does their nails, might as well stick with them. If you can find a good groomer and stick with them, that groomer will get to see your Goldendoodle grow into an adult and can report physical or behavioral changes. There are so many reasons to try to stay with the same groomer. It really is the best thing for your Goldendoodle. Before we talk about the different haircut styles and variations in lengths available for Goldendoodles, we need to talk about their different hair types. Goldendoodle Hair Types Since Goldendoodles are hybrids, they can have one of three different coat types depending on their genetic lottery. Most people opt for lengths between half an inch and an inch. Talk to your groomer about what length you think you can manage. These kinds of hairstyle that leave a mane and a tight clip on the rest of the body are a fun hairstyle, ideal for hot summer months. Kennel Clip for Goldendoodles If you or your dog hate the brushing process, or your Goldendoodle just loves to spend time in the woods, in a lake, in the mud, or anywhere except indoors, a kennel clip may be your best bet. This is a great summer cut because the short hair keeps your Goldendoodle cool. You can add a poof to the end to give them a flag tail, give them clean feet, round feet, or add pom poms. It all comes down to your personal preference and whether those areas are matted when you take your pet to the groomer. Make sure you discuss these areas in detail with the groomer at drop-off. Final Thoughts The best thing you can do for your Goldendoodle puppy is to start brushing them as soon as you bring them home and take them to the groomer early and often so they can get used to the process. Goldendoodle puppies should have their face, feet, and potty area trimmed as soon as possible to get used to the grooming process. Goldendoodle puppies will likely have their first full haircut between 6 months and 1 year old. Introduce your Goldendoodle puppy to daily brushing as soon as you bring them home. Use a metal comb to run through every inch of your dog after brushing to avoid missing tangles and mats. Make brushing part of your daily routine to prevent painful mats from forming. Find a groomer early and stick with them to ensure a lifetime of success with grooming. Puppy Grooming: First Haircut When should a goldendoodle puppy go to the groomer? What do you do? The first trip to the groomer Your puppy has hopefully! She should have already had her initial introduction to her lifetime of being groomed. Your goldendoodle puppy should visit a professional groomer for the first time after her week immunizations. Since she will need regular grooming throughout her life, both she and her groomer will benefit if she is accustomed to being groomed from a young age. The first big girl or big boy haircut The wavy, curly adult coat will start replacing the soft, fluffy puppy coat around months of age. Waiting to cut the hair until the adult coat makes its debut beneath the layers of puppy fur helps ensure that the adult coat remains soft. Poodle groomers and poodle fanciers claim that shaving a poodle or goldendoodle down before her adult coat starts coming in could damage the adult coat, affecting the texture. Take your goldendoodle puppy for her first full big girl haircut at months of age, once her adult coat has started coming in. As aforementioned, take her to the groomer for a puppy clip after her week immunizations. Before your first big trip to the groomer for that full haircut, spend time looking through pictures of goldendoodle haircuts. You can also read about what to expect when you take her to the groomer and how to avoid a poodle-style haircut. You should regularly groom your puppy: brushing her hair, cleaning her ears, brushing her teeth, clipping her toenails , and checking her for any anomalies i. You want your puppy to become accustomed to being brushed from a young age. Do the brief bonding exercise with your puppy each night before bed to ensure she is used to being touched and handled. Your groomer with thank you. Trust me. Still have questions about goldendoodle puppy grooming? Learn more about what shampoos and brushes to purchase for grooming your goldendoodle from a professional goldendoodle groomer. Share this:. How you want her hair styled is completely up to you! The good news is, hair grows back! Round feet are more commonly seen on goldendoodles but clean feet track less dirt into the house. An all over clip can be done at any length. You can also try lamb cut, where the body is one length blended into longer legs. Unless you already know your preferences, try short clipped ears rather than shaved or fluffy ears and round feet. We recommend waiting 6 months before taking your goldendoodle puppy her first full clip down grooming. The wavy, curly adult coat will start replacing the soft, fluffy puppy coat around months of age. Waiting to cut the hair until the adult coat makes its debut beneath the layers of puppy fur helps ensure that the adult coat remains soft. Shaving a goldendoodle down before her adult coat starts coming in could damage the adult coat, affecting the texture. You should regularly groom your puppy: brushing her hair, cleaning her ears, brushing her teeth, clipping her toenails, and checking her for any anomalies i. What tools do you need for this regular maintenance grooming? A metal comb works best for curly coated goldendoodles while a grooming rake may work well for wavier coated goldendoodles. Either a cordless dremel or nail clippers can be used for this, whichever you prefer. Since goldendoodles have ears that hang down, they are prone to ear infections if water is left in their ears or if their ears are not cleaned regularly. You can even pull this page up on your phone to reference when you drop your goldendoodle off. Once your goldendoodle is all groomed, be sure to post a picture to our Facebook group for other people to use as a reference! Share this:. How often should I brush my puppy? Your puppy needs to be brushed daily with a slicker brush followed by a metal comb. The slicker brush will only brush the surface. The comb will help you detect any mats that are forming underneath, which is a vital part of the process. Daily brushing will keep your puppy mat free and will also teach your puppy that grooming is a routine event. Typically they need to be clipped weekly to be kept at the proper length. As they grow, you can move to once or twice a month. A groomer will typically clip nails as part of the grooming service. How often can I bathe my puppy? As long as you use a tearless shampoo, you can bathe as often as you like. Be sure to fully brush after a bath to avoid matting. When should my puppy have its first hair cut? Your puppy will probably be ready for its first hair cut at months of age. You will want to find a groomer before you bring your puppy home so that you can take them to the groomer before their first hair cut to get them comfortable with the groomer and the process. How much does a professional clip cost? Pricing will vary based on location, kind of cut requested, and the length and condition of the coat. How long does a professional clip usually take? You can expect the grooming appointment to be hours depending the size dog and the kind of cut you request. This is a widget ready area. Add some and they will appear here. For all other questions: Email: admin goldendoodleassociation. Your membership helps to fund research and development regarding health, genetics, puppy development, and more. Member Application. If you have any tips that we could share with our Rainfield Goldendoodle family, please contacct us through Rainfield Facebook page or at my email at laurie rainfieldgoldendoodles. Goldendoodle Puppies at weeks old. Their coats are fluffy and getting thicker. The pup in the middle will be the first to need the hair around his eyes trimmed. We are not being paid or compensated to advertise these. These are just items we have research and added to our grooming set up. Here at Rainfield, we have puppies whose coats range from quite curly our F1bb or some F1b puppies to shaggy wavy coats our F1s and some F1bs. Goldendoodles take a couple years to get their full and final coats, so their coats will change and transition during those first two years. They usually start off pretty fluffy with baby fuzz underneath. Gradually the curlier doodles get more of a curly, poodle-like coat, although usually with looser curls that a poodle. The shaggy wavy coated doodles, get a longer, fuller, straighter coat, often with a little curl in it. In our experience, curlier goldendoodles need their first actual grooming experience a little earlier monhs old than the shaggy wavy doodles months. Two different coat types. Marcus the Great is an F1 doodle and has a shaggy, wavy coat. Princess Neely is an F1b Mini Goldendoodle puppy. She has a beautiful curly coat. Get Your Puppy Started with Weekly Grooming Maintenance Regardless of the coat type, before you start full-on grooming a goldendoodle puppy,they need to get used to regular brushings and the sounds of the grooming table blowers, clippers, etc. Go ahead and blow dry them a little bit after each bath. If you have clippers or beard trimmers, turn on the clippers and let your goldendoodle get used to the sound. Bring the clippers close to their fur in different places, their head, legs, feet. Give your doodles dog treats while the blower or clippers are going so your doodle develops a positive association with those sounds. Brushing your goldendoodle puppy at least once a week is very important. The earliest grooming a goldendoodle puppy needs is often an eye, ear and sanitary trim. When their hair starts getting in their eyes, or fuzzing out their ears, and when poop residue starts clinging to their fur near their butt, your doodle is ready for their first light grooming. Amber is a 5 month old F1 Goldendoodle Puppy. With our puppies that often happens at about weeks of age. You can either take them to the groomer to get this done, or, if you are more of a DIYer like we are, you can do this at home. A little trim around the eyes, a light buzz on the inside of the ears with a small trimmer like this one and some scissor clipping around their potty areas might be enough to tide you over until their coat is thick enough for their first official grooming. Just be careful because doodles can be bouncy. We use safety tip grooming scissors that have rounded ends for the areas around their face. A scissor clip will even her coat out a bit. With that nice coat, we want her to be used to regular grooming and the grooming table as well. Our doodles seem to need their first grooming at about 5 months old, but puppies with an especially thick, full coat, may need it sooner. Puppies with thinner coats, may be able to go longer than that. We do most of our own grooming, when possible. We prefer the longer, shaggier look on our goldendoodles, so we prefer to start with scissor clipping when grooming a goldendoodle puppy. Scissor clipping is all Amber needs for now. A grooming table makes all the difference. We use the large Flying Pig Brand. Grooming a goldendoodle puppy takes skill, but Violet 16 has learned her grooming techniques by watching Youtube videos. Amber feels good and looks so much cleaner and neater after getting all that puppy fuzz off. Dogs with long ears can have more ear trouble as the hair grows and gets trapped in their ears. Once this happens, moisture is retained and yeast and other bacteria can become a problem. Part of your weekly grooming maintenance should be checking their ears and using an ear wash. We use Zymox Otic and use that for 3 or 4 days. Brownie has those long, floppy doodle ears that need regular cleanings to keep yeast growth at bay. Submit a Comment Your email address will not be published.