english bulldog puppies lafayette la

Crating Philosophy When considering the natural habitation of a canine, often its home is a den, cave, or similar close-quartered shelter. They used this space as their home, to sleep, escape from danger, and raise their young. Obviously, your bulldog would not appreciate roughing it out in the wild. However, they still find comfort resting in a similar space. On some days, it feels like our bulldogs have decided to claim the entire house as their den. But, we know they find comfort and in their crate as an escape from the clamor of a busy house. Certainly, the crate can be a great tool and outlet for your bulldog IF used properly. As useful as crates can be they are often one of the most abused resources an adopter. There is much, unneeded controversy on using them that has stemmed from irresponsible dog owners abusing their purpose. As concerned bulldog breeders, we make sure to take the time to explain to our adopters the proper and improper uses of a crate. What a crate is to be used for… 1. For a further in-depth explanation of this process please read this previous article we wrote on the matter. We like to use the 4-hour rule at our house for an adult bulldog and the 2 hour limit for our puppies. Any time past these limits, we would seriously consider arranging someone dropping by the house to let them out and move around. Transporting your bully in the car A crate provides a safe place for your bully to travel with you in the car especially long trips. We have found they love to snooze in their crate when road-tripping with us. Sleeping Once your bully is completely potty trained it is ok to sleep outside the crate, but we have found they often prefer their crate as a place of comfort as they grow older. Escaping from too much commotion The crate should be a place that your bulldog voluntarily goes into; they should feel that the crate is their home! Crates are an escape haven for your bulldog when the house is busy and there is just too much commotion. Crate training will have many benefits for your bulldog, including protecting him from household hazards and reducing his separation anxiety. It should be either 24 x 30 inches 61 x 76 cm or 24 x 36 inches 61 x 91 cm for a French bulldog, and either 42 x 30 inches x 76 cm or 42 x 36 inches x 91 cm for an American bulldog. This will allow you to increase the crate space as your puppy grows into an adult. The crate should be a place of safety and comfort for your bulldog. Place his favorite blanket and toys in the crate. You can also place a quilt or sheet over the crate to make it feel like a cozy den. A bowl would preferable, since he wouldn't be able to pull it out of the crate very easily. Leave the door open during the early stages of crate training so he can explore the crate at his leisure. Once your bulldog is comfortable entering the crate on his own, work on closing its door behind him. Start with closing the door for only a few seconds and then letting him out. If he starts whining or crying, wait until he calms down before opening the door. When he can handle a few seconds, close the door, leave the room, and return after random lengths of time e. Remember that puppies cannot hold their bladders for very long, so you should not leave your puppy bulldog in the crate for long time periods. The AKC advocates for the responsible ownership of dogs and promotes purebred dog events, such as the Westminster Dog Show. Go to source When you are home, spend time with your bulldog while he is in the crate. Bulldogs are friendly and sociable dogs; interacting with your bulldog will keep him from getting lonely. Always remember that the crate is a place of safety and comfort, not punishment. Your bulldog should always have a positive association with the crate. But when you first welcome them into your family, it would be a good idea to train your puppy. Crate training means teaching your puppy to remain in its crate for periods. Most of the steps are the same for any dog, but you must do what is best for your American Bulldog puppy. Pick an appropriate crate for your puppy. Create a cozy environment in the crate. Take your puppy to the bathroom before putting them in the crate. Place your puppy in the create for 20 minutes and leave the house. Come back and take your puppy outside for a little playtime and a small treat. Repeat the process everyday, adding 10 minutes each time, until you can leave the house for a few hours at a time. Crate training can be an integral part of any dog to be comfortable being left home alone. Crate training can also help with any separation anxiety your dog may have. Read our article here on American bulldogs with separation anxiety. There are many different types of crates, and each has its benefits, but you want to make sure it is the right size for your puppy. There are a couple of different criteria you need to look for when picking out the crate: The puppy needs to sit up, stand, turn around, and lie down in the crate. Your dog should have 6 inches on either side and above them when they stand. Make sure it is a smaller crate or has a partition. American Bulldogs will grow quite large, but if you get a crate with a partition, you can block off part of the crate to make it warm and cozy. Dogs like being in small den-like spaces so that a large crate could frighten the puppy. This creates a sense of security for them. Different Types of Dog Crates There are a couple of different types of dog crates that you can use for your American Bulldog puppy. Each one has positives and negatives and can help your puppy feel comfortable in their crate. Soft-sided crates are lightweight and contain a mesh-like fabric. These crates are comfortable for the dogs but can be hard to clean and easy for the dogs to chew. Plastic dog crates create privacy for your dog and are difficult for your puppy to destroy. They can have poor ventilation and can absorb smells easily. Metal wire crates are robust and offer great visibility for your dog. They are missing the coziness that is created in other crates. You can solve this by placing it in a corner, or laying a light sheet over the top. Wood crates are decorative and allow you to have some choice in how they look. They can be hard to clean and can be heavy to lift. All of these choices can be great for your American Bulldog puppy. But because your dog might not be trained well, a plastic or metal wire crate will be easiest to clean. Make The Crate Welcoming After choosing the crate that you think is best for your dog, you need to make it homey and welcoming for your new American Bulldog puppy. Dogs are known for liking dark den-like spaces to sleep in. If your crate is not naturally dark, you can use a blanket over the crate, and it will create a dark space for your American Bulldog puppy. Puppies also like soft, comfortable spaces. Place a thin, soft dog bed on the bottom, or a small blanket. These will be comfy and cozy for your American Bulldog puppy. You can even add a squishy cuddly toy for your puppy to cuddle up with. By adding these things to your crate, your American Bulldog puppy will feel more comfortable. They may still be anxious, but the environment should feel somewhat familiar and comfortable to them. Also making sure there are toys for the dog to chew on to keep their attention. This will help them focus on the toy rather than being confined in the crate. By giving them toys, they may cause minor damage to the crate. This will also teach them what is okay to chew on because you are giving it to them. If your puppy is not potty trained, place a towel on the bottom of the crate or potty training pad instead of the bed. Exploring the Risks and Benefits This will keep the bed clean for future use. If you are using a metal wire crate, take the collar off your puppy to not get caught in the cage. Leave your American Bulldog puppy in the crate for twenty minutes and leave the house. The puppy may whine and cry , but your job is to ignore it. This will get your puppy to feel comfortable over time being left alone in the crate. Take Your Puppy Outside After your American Bulldog puppy has spent the twenty minutes in their crate, take them outside, play with them, and allow them to go to the bathroom. This will show them that you will always come back for them. Take your puppy to the same spot to go to the bathroom. They will get used to one spot and know that this is the place they have to go. While you are outside, give your puppy rewards after going to the bathroom and allow them to feel close to you. That will help them feel more comfortable in their environment. Praise Your Puppy It is essential when your puppy comes out of their crate and they have gone to the bathroom that you praise them. This can help them know they are doing the right thing and create an expectation for the puppy. You can also give them a treat and help them make a physical connection between food and doing the right thing. Bring Your Puppy Back Inside After your puppy has gone to the bathroom, bring them back inside and play with the puppy inside. This will acclimate your puppy to the routine of going to the bathroom outside and helping them get used to the process. Crate training and potty training go hand in hand. Check out our American bulldog potty training guide. At first, keep with the twenty-minute time frame. Your puppy will slowly get used to the amount of time, and you will be able to gradually increase the amount of time your American Bulldog puppy is in the crate. There is a slight chance that your puppy will go to the bathroom in their crate. If they feel comfortable and like it is their place, they will not want to go to the bathroom when they are in their crate. If they do go, do not scold your puppy because they will not understand why. They also might not be able to hold it for the entire twenty minutes in the beginning. Your American Bulldog puppy will get comfortable with being on their own and learn the routine of going outside right after being in their crate. This will help get them potty trained and feel more comfortable in their environment. Repeat The Process You then need to keep repeating the process. If you do this every day, your puppy will become used to the crate and the process of being left alone in their crate. By increasing the time frame by 10 minutes for each crate training time, your American bulldog will become used to being alone and holding their bladder until they are let out of their crate. If you slowly increase this amount of time, you should be able to leave your puppy for up to two to three hours. Every time you place your puppy in the crate, you must take them outside before after. This will get them used to have to go out after being in their crate. This can be confusing to a young puppy. Over time your American bulldog will get the hang of it and it and taking a nap in their crate will be totally normal and expected. Post Views: .Crate training a Bulldog is an easy task, this wonderful dog is known for being sweet, devoted, and easygoing. The crate training process should start as soon as the dog is home, and the younger the puppy the better, old dogs tend to have acquired old habits that need to be changed. Should bulldogs be crate trained? But before you put a leash on your bulldog and head to the pet store, there are a few important things you need to know to make the right choices. Choosing the right crate There are various types of crates that you can get, not all dogs are the same and each crate is made for a specific job. The most popular crates are plastic and wire crates, and there are also soft-sided and heavy-duty crates for extremely aggressive dogs. What size crate for a bulldog? Choosing a perfectly sized crate for your bulldog will make the crate training process easier, so what makes a crate the perfect size: The crate should be big enough for the dog to stand up, lay down and turn around comfortably with a few extra inches on each side. The crate should have a divider to adjust its size as the puppy grows not to change crates every couple of months. Most new dog owners think that crate training is cruel and try to compensate for that with the largest crate they can get their hands on. According to the AKC standards, bulldogs are inches in height and weigh around 50 pounds, for a dog this big the perfect crate is 36 inches. We strongly recommend the Midwest Ultima Pro Metal Crate check price at Amazon , it comes with a divider and has a double doors feature which makes exploring it easy for the dog in the early stages of the training. Preparing training treats Training treats are a very important tool that will make crate training easier and much faster, doing it without treats is very stressful but doable if you must. Treats are used as lures to get the dog in the crate and rewards to enforce good behavior, so you must get some ready before you introduce your dog to his crate. They are also prone to Cardiac and patella issues, so using just enough treats is safer for their health, read the Official Breed Club Health Statement. A dog that is low on energy and just had a good playtime is more willing to just relax in his crate. Dogs should only have access to interactive toys when you are there to play with them, they are the ultimate reward especially for a dog like a bulldog that is eager to please. So what makes a good crate placement? The crate should not be placed next to engines or heaters or anything that makes loud noises because it will disturb your dog. It should not be directly exposed to the sun, nor placed in a windy spot. The crate should not be in a dark spot that does not get some sunlight during the day. At night the crate should be close to your bedroom so you can hear your puppy if he needs to go for a potty break or is whining in there. We found that is very convenient to have two crates for your dog, one in the living area and another in the bedroom, or you can just use one and move it around from room to room. Following these steps will make the process easier for you, so make sure each step is valid and the dog is clearly on board before moving on to the next. Introducing your bulldog to his crate Crate training is basically creating a relationship between the dog and his crate, like any relationship the first impression is always important. Once your dog is in the crate you want to reward and praise him heavily to enforce being in the crate as good behavior that pleases you. Bulldogs are smart enough dogs and they also love treats, so your dog will soon figure out that being in the crate means having treats and will offer to get in on his own to get the treat. This is a great way to tell that your dog is getting used to his crate and is already associating it with some happy experiences with all the treats, the verbal praise, and the rubbing he gets in there. Make sure when the dog is getting into the crate that the doors are well secured to avoid any incidents that might scare the dog and set you back in training. Making the crate great At this point of the crate training process, your bulldog should be getting in the crate willingly and already has a good thing going on with the treats and praise, all you need to do is keep it going. Food will keep your dog distracted but you should not rush it, once your bulldog has finished his meal you can open the door and let him out if he wants. Interacting with your bulldog while in the crate is key to keeping him the longest inside, dogs generally associate happy memories with places, this will make the crate a great place for your dog. Once your dog is used to spending time in his crate after the meals, you can start to move away slowly from the crate, a few minutes at a time. The goal is for your bulldog to feel safe spending time alone in the crate with you not around, start slow and begin with simply moving around the room walking in and out of the room for a few minutes while gradually increasing the time. Home alone At this point, your dog should be able to spend time alone in the crate with no one around without any objections, which is what crate training is all about. Most people will make a scene out of leaving and say goodbye to their dog then leave, this is a bad idea and all it does is associate being left alone with the crate. Crate training a bulldog puppy at night Crate training a puppy at night can be intimidating especially the first night , most dogs will reject the crate and start whining, and young puppies will have to wake up for a potty break. However, if you prepare well for the night and do a good job with the introduction phase, your bulldog will be more willing to spend the night there. Make sure your dog feeds and goes for a walk just before he has to get into the crate for the night, this way you can limit the number of times you need to wake up to let him out for his business. The most important thing you should keep in mind is that you should not let the puppy out of the crate when he starts whining at night, try to distract him and get his attention by talking or gently tapping on the crate. How long can a bulldog stay in the crate? Younger puppies can not spend more than one hour in the crate at a time, but they can of course spend two to three sessions a day in the crate. Active breeds also have a hard time staying in the crate for too long especially if left alone with no distractions. A dog that has plenty of exercise and playtime before going in the crate is able to spend more time in there. Bulldogs are not very active dogs and do not need a lot of activities so adults can go for long periods at a time but at most four hours, but they can not go back for the rest of the day and should have a good walk and some attention after the crate time. Is it hard to crate train a bulldog puppy? Bulldogs are also known to be easygoing dogs that are eager to please their owner, so they are less likely to make a scene especially at night. All in all, bulldogs are one of the easier breeds to crate train, all you have to do is follow the steps and do not rush things up. Related Posts. Contact Us How to house train a English bulldog puppy the right way The easiest way to go about house training your new bulldog puppy is by utilizing a crate. Dogs are and always have been den and pack animals, they naturally and instinctively prefer the shelter of a den. Therefore most dogs will not urinate or defecate in their crate, which is why it is such an invaluable tool for housebreaking. The first thing to understand, though, is the need for repetition and consistency. Begin by purchasing the appropriate size crate. Think den not condo! It should be small with just enough room for your bulldog to stand up, turn around and lie down comfortably. It is not an exercise pen. The use of too large a crate will encourage your bulldog puppy to use a small portion of it for a bed and the rest of it as a place to potty. We use the Midwest Life Stages crates. Leave the crate door open and allow your bulldog puppy to come and go as he pleases. Keep his favorite treats handy that you only use for the crate. It gives the puppy a nice reason to go in and creates a positive experience. At mealtimes, feed your bulldog in the crate with the door closed. At night, just before bedtime take your bulldog puppy out to potty. Put your puppy in his crate and shut the door. For the first 3 nights set your alarm for 3 hours. Set him down and wait. When he goes potty, praise him and put him back in his crate. Set your alarm for 3 more hours and repeat. After three days, if it has been successful and there have been no accidents, move to 4-hour intervals. After three more nights, you have hopefully taught your puppy that you will be there to take him outside when he has to go. If there have been no accidents you can then start going to bed and waiting until your puppy wakes you up to potty. It is important to respond and take him out immediately if he wakes during the night. In the morning, as soon as you wake up, immediately take your puppy out. By house time, I mean freedom to move about but always in the same room as you so that you can keep a constant eye on him. We use baby gates to block off access to other rooms. During the day repeat the above process and continue to take the puppy out every hour. If he does not do his business put him back in his crate and try again in 15 minutes. NEVER let a bulldog puppy in training out of your site. Use the crate as you would a playpen for a human child. Even if you leave the room for a minute, either take the puppy with you or put him in the crate. If you turn your back for 60 seconds and your puppy has an accident, then you messed up and made a mistake and have missed the opportunity to make a correction and teach the puppy. Do not rub his nose in it and do not use any physical correction! When he goes outside give him lots of praise. Use an odor neutralizer. When an accident occurs it is important to completely remove the odor, otherwise your puppy will gravitate back to the area to relieve himself again. You can buy the neutralizers from most any pet store. Do not use household cleaners, most contain ammonia which will attract him back to the same spot. A Few Tips to Help You Succeed Puppies will need to go potty first thing in the morning, after every meal, as soon as they wake up from naps and just before bedtime. A few hours before bedtime take up his water, this will help buy you a litter more time between potty breaks at night. If you see him smelling a particular spot or circling around, pick him up and take him outside. Keep your puppy on a regular feeding schedule and take away his food between meals. Puppies may not initially like the crate. Some will cry, whine, bark and drive you crazy the first couple of days. Doing so will teach your puppy that if he barks or whines long enough he will get rewarded and this will only encourage the behavior. Training an English bulldog puppy takes time, consistency and patience. Dogs function best with structure, routine, and clear expectations. Share this post.

They are not the only dog breed capable of displaying such furry finery, however. Known to be prim and polished, the posh poodle is also capable of coming in a variety of coat colors. Beyond the accepted tans, browns, blues, and cream coats, merle poodles have been known to exist. Merle is more than just a coat color, though. A merle poodle is a dog who looks like a poodle, acts like a poodle, but has a cacophony of colors on its coat. Merle tends to express itself in patches, dots, spots, and dashes. This is different from parti-poodles who usually have a white base paired with one shade of either only black, red, or brown. Usually known to have black skin, the dog could end up with a mottled black and pink discoloration. They look like a run-of-the-mill though still beautiful! What makes them merle is their genetics. Phantom merles are important to look out for when it comes to breeding. While some breeds have spontaneously developed the merle gene, merle poodles are not natural. This means that the gene has been introduced into the poodle pool by another breed of dog, making merle poodles not purebred even if they look and act like it. In order to get a merle poodle puppy, you must have a merle parent to breed with a regular poodle. It will never occur naturally. While there are several breeds which are known and accepted as merle such as the Australian shepherd and corgi , merles are not accepted by the AKC in the poodle category. This is especially because it is not a naturally occurring trait in poodles, whereas it is in the other breeds. The AKC sees merle poodles as a corruption of the purebred and any merle poodles presented will be automatically disqualified. Dogs carrying the merle gene would show as Mm. Then there are double merles, who show as MM. A double merle dog is a poodle who got double the dose of genetic mutation, meaning that both of its parents carried the merle gene. They are more than likely to have the tell-tale coat markings of a merle dog — or sometimes come out as completely white, but never phantom — along with several unsavory side effects. It is common for double merles to have birth defects: malformed ears or eyes, even missing ears or eyes is possible. Less extreme but still severe for any dog, double merles could be born blind or deaf. Breeding merle poodles is risky especially if a phantom merle has not been discovered for what it is. Breeding two confirmed merle dogs together is almost guaranteed to produce a double merle. As you can see, the odds of the offspring being MM are very high and the effects of a double merle disastrous. Breeding merle dogs of any breed is a tricky business. It needs to be carefully regulated due to some serious side effects. While not all mutations are bad, the merle one can be. Basically, breeders need to have their poodles genetically tested if they suspect that a dog carries the merle gene. Remember, it can be hidden like in phantom merles. If the dog carries a merle gene, it should not be bred with another merle visible or phantom. On its own, if a merle is matched with a dog who has been proven to have no merle gene whatsoever not even phantom! Because merle is a rather dominant gene, it is more than likely that the litter will have several merle puppies. As we mentioned, doubling the gene can cause double the problems. Without genetic testing, blind breeding should not be done. Poodles as a pure breed are at risk from several health problems. Most of which can be treated or avoided with proper breeding and owner care. Other orthopedic problems can occur more in toy and miniature poodles. They can also suffer from epilepsy and hair regrow issues like sebaceous adenitis. As long as breeders are responsible, poodles should lead long, healthy lives. Merle dogs of any breed are almost guaranteed to face health problems. Across all breeds, merles face auditory and ophthalmologic problems — both visual and internal. They can also have problems with their cardiac, skeletal, and reproductive systems. Many of these diseases are not ones that can be treated easily. Because merle poodles are exactly the same breed as regular poodles, all the health problems they can face are compounded. Start with the ones common for regular poodles, then add on the health problems faced by merles specifically. That makes a merle poodle at risk for more health problems than its plain-coated contemporaries. Some breeds very rarely carry and display merle genes, some breeds almost never do. The merle poodle is rare because it is not naturally occurring. Interestingly, the merle poodle kind of breaks this mold. Merle Poodles are expensive. A rather average price for a purebred dog. This is pretty standard for type of poodle standard, toy, or miniature and age range puppy or adult. The breeding and ownership of a merle poodles is much more contested than with other breeds. The poodle poses a greater problem, though, as many are vocally against the introduction of this non-naturally occurring mutation in these plush pups. Poodles are known for their smooth-colored coats. It seems like adding merle into the gene pool is a waste. If an addition to the family is on the horizon, think merle for other breeds and try to keep poodles pure. To start off here is a little about the Merle Gene. The Merle Gene is an incomplete dominant gene, which means that it only requires one copy to reproduce it, so only one parent must carry for Merle. This does not apply to certain sine lengths, but to keep this simple I will never breed two Merle parents together. As well, there are other color genes that can cover the Merle gene, so you will not visibly see it, but it is still present genetically and can be passed down to offspring. As well, many that are not trained to Merles, can mistake a brindle with the Merle gene as not carrying Merle. If are breeding a Merle to any of these colors, you should genetically test them to ensure they do not carry for Merle and therefore, you will not have double Merle. There are many people out there that insist that Merle is not a naturally existing color in Poodles. Many of these people will claim that it is naturally occurring in many other breeds though, such as Australian Shepherd, Great Danes, and Dachshunds. There are several AKC Breeders that register them regularly. What I must note for all those people is the fact that there is also is no specific color for Parti, Sable, Brindle, or Phantom. So now the controversy is where did this gene come from and since nobody knows for sure we must look at our options. The Merle gene was introduced using another breed, many, many generations ago. If for instance, we go with this option, we would assume that it was introduced with either Great Danes, Australian Shepherds, or Dachshunds. There are some other breeds with Merles, but they are just as different as these breeds in coat type, size, structure, and temperament, so we will just work with these breeds for now. If these breeds were used to introduce the Merle gene, we can all visibly see the obvious difference in coat type, structure, size, temperament among other things. Poodles have two curly genes, do not carry for improper coat, and have too long hair genes, for a dog to get curly hair it needs one copy of the curl gene, but with only one copy you will not get as much curl as a dog with two copies, actually, it takes many generations to get that amount of curl back as there is natural variation within the gene and if you talk to Poodle breeders that show, they breed only dogs with thick full coats and it takes a long time to get these coats. You need two improper coat genes to get not facial furnishings and you need two copies of the long hair gene to get long hair. So, if you took any of the three breeds we are using as examples to infuse Merle into the poodle. Two of the breeds have short, straight hair with no furnishings Great Dane and Dachshund and one has long hair, but it is straight with no furnishings Australian Shepherd. So, if you crossed with the Great Dane or Dachshund you would end up with wire haired, short-haired dogs with some furnishings, these dogs would look nothing like a poodle at all, even crossed back to the poodle again, you still would have F1 Goldendoodle looking coats on the curlier sided puppies. You would need to cross them back at least generations to get an even remotely looking Poodle coat. Now, with the Aussie, they at least have a long coat, so their first-generation puppies coats would be a bit closer in resemblance to a poodle than the other crosses, but would still only be wavy coats and would need to be crossed back to the poodle at least generations to get Poodle looking coats. This is assuming that the Breeder that chose to infuse this other breed genetically tested the puppies to ensure the puppies with the right coat genetics were bred back to the poodle. The next thing to assess is structure, we can all agree that the poodle is built very differently from the Dachshund, Great Dane, and Australian Shepherd. It takes decades to change the entire structure of a dog, but with careful breeding, you can do it. But the dachshund and the Australian Shepherd are completely different in structure body-wise to the poodle, and, likewise, the Great Dane is also completely different in structure, particularly in the head structure. It would take many generations to change this structure when bred back to the poodle. Okay, so keeping all this in mind, it is possible that some AKC Breeder did infuse one of these breeds and genetically tested each generation, breeding them back to the poodle over generations to achieve a dog that looks like a poodle. They would have had to not only register each generation while hiding the offspring that would obviously not pass as a poodle because if they did not, but they would also be reported to AKC. They would need to keep careful consideration to the structure of each puppy and genetic tests and temperament so that these dogs would eventually show no sign of another breed in them, as the AKC registered Poodles that are out there now breed true to type. While I admit that this is possible, I also think it is highly unlikely and I would go as far as saying that if they did infuse another breed and it was that many generations back that it is unrecognizable in the current Poodles, as the current ones breed true to type in every way.Does it really matter? Also, before you say that someone just lied on their papers, I know of several breeders that have DNA's done many generations back too. The second option is that it has always occurred in the breed. There was a phase in which all multicolored poodles were thought to be flawed, due to a vast lack of knowledge and many misconceptions on people parts. During this time multi-colored poodles were not bred, and many were culled almost getting rid of those colors altogether. With merle being a gene that can easily be hidden by other genes such as White, Cream, Apricot, and Red, it could have stayed hidden by these genes for many generations, especially due to the fact that these colors were often only bred together, so Merle would have never shown up until people realized that there was nothing wrong genetically with multicolored poodles and started breeding them again, once these poodles were crossed with other colors the merle gene could have emerged then. The last option is that the Merle gene was a natural mutation in the Poodle, which is how it is believed to have occurred in other breeds that it is present in. They are beautiful and breed to the breed standard. I really feel when there are so many health and temperament issues in so many breeds, we should be focused on breeding healthier, better temperament, more structurally sound Poodles and not cause so much drama and conflict over a color that we cannot prove one way or another how it came to be in Poodles. Looking for a merle poodle puppy? Check out our planned litter between Luna and Alastor or Bellatrix and Magic , for your next opportunity to own your very own Merle Poodle Photos from our Instagram Page. Merle tends to express itself in patches, dots, spots, and dashes. Merle is a genetic pattern that can be in a dog's coat. Merle comes in different colors and patterns and can affect all coat colors. The merle gene creates mottled patches of color in a solid or piebald coat, blue or odd-colored eyes, and can affect skin pigment as well. The Merle Gene is an incomplete dominant gene, which means that it only requires one copy to reproduce it. Yes, Merle Poodles are purebred. Poodles are a breed of dog that are known for their intelligence, athleticism, and hypoallergenic coat. There are three sizes of Poodles: Standard, Miniature, and Toy. Merle is a coat color pattern that is found in some purebred dogs, including Poodles. The Merle coat color pattern is characterized by a mottled or marbled appearance, with patches of solid color mixed with areas of diluted or faded color. The Merle pattern can occur in a variety of colors, including blue, red, chocolate, and black. It is important to note that the Merle coat pattern is not recognized by all Poodle breed standards, so it is not considered a standard coat color in some Poodle breed clubs. However, it is still considered a purebred Poodle. It has been recognized that the Merle coat pattern in dogs is not only a visually interesting feature, but it also exerts an important biological role, in terms of hearing and vision impairments. Unfortunately, the situation turned out complicated as genotypes of Merle-tested individuals did not always correspond to expected phenotypes, sometimes with undesired health consequences in the offspring. The refinement of allelic identification was made possible by systematic, detailed observation of Merle phenotypes in a cohort of dogs from known Merle breeds, by many breeders worldwide, and the use of advanced molecular technology enabling the discrimination of individual Merle alleles with significantly higher precision than previously available. We also show that mosaicism of Merle alleles is an unexpectedly frequent phenomenon, which was identified in 30 out of .Importantly, not only major alleles but also minor Merle alleles can be inherited by the offspring. Thus, mosaic findings cannot be neglected and must be reported to the breeder in their whole extent. In light of negative health consequences that may be attributed to certain Merle breeding strategies, we strongly advocate the implementation of the refined Merle allele testing for all dogs of Merle breeds to help the breeders in the selection of suitable mating partners and production of healthy offspring. Merle is thought to be inherited in an autosomal, incomplete dominant way. Dogs heterozygous for the M allele show a typical coat pattern, however, dogs homozygous for the M allele may also exhibit auditory and ophthalmologic impairments and abnormalities together with very pale or completely white coat phenotypes Strain et al. Such negative health effects associated with the M locus encouraged the research to identify the gene responsible. They look like a traditional merle, however, what makes them merle is their genetics. Cream, Red, Apricot, or Parti can hide the Merle pattern. This is pretty standard for the type of poodle standard, toy, or miniature and age range puppy or adult. Merle dogs of any breed are likely to be more expensive than solid-colored dogs, even though a lot of responsible breeders try to change that. Red Merle Poodles have a red brown , copper, beige and white coat in a mottled pattern. Most of their coat is a beige-grey and they feature red brown , white and copper patches throughout it. Red Merle Poodles have light or dark brown noses. In most cases they have light brown eyes however they can sometimes have blue eyes. They are also called Chocolate Merle Poodles. Tweed Merle Poodles carry the Tweed merle modifier that turns the majority of their coat into a variety of brown and tan shades. Tweed Merle Poodles have extensive brown patching compared to a regular Merle Poodle. They are an extremely rare Poodle coat pattern. Merle Phantom Poodles have a coat with a merle background with patches of tan on their chin, throat, chest, legs, beneath their tail, above their eyes and on the sides of their muzzle. They are extremely rare. They have the typical phantom pattern but instead of having a solid background color, their coat is mainly merle. A Cryptic Merle Poodle is a Poodle that has very small patches of merle or none at all. These Poodles appear to be non-merle however they carry the merle genotype and produce merle offspring. Unfortunately, Double Merle Poodles are affected by severe ocular defeats and deafness. They may be deaf in one or both ears and may be blind or have totally lost an eye. This is because Double Merle Poodles will always pass on a copy of Merle to their puppies and should not be bred together. Most official bodies refuse to register dogs that are a product of merle-to-merle breeding. Are Merle Poodles Healthy? Merle Poodles are likely to have health issues, especially Double Merle Poodles. See Also.

Silver beige White Apricot - This and red were two of the last colors recorded for this breed; so they are the newest and quite interesting. An apricot can produce a red. Some apricot Poodles are so light that they appear to be cream, however you will notice a red tint to the hair. A true apricot poodle will have some points or black spots on their skin. Liver points are acceptable but not preferred in the U. All blue Poodles are born black and then "clear" lighten as the pup grows. This often happens within the first year but this change can take place as late as 2 years in some cases. For this reason, many blue Poodles are registered as black. The outer coat of a blue poodle is usually as dark as that of a black, but hairs at the root is a mix of colors. The amount of each color depends on the age of the dog. In middle-aged dogs, medium brown predominates. True blue Poodles will have black points and dark brown eyes. Brown - A brown Poodle is a deep, dark color and in no way can be confused with Cafe Au lait which is much lighter. Pure brown Poodles must have liver points and dark amber eyes. Brown is created by the bb gene, as opposed to the BB gene of black Poodles, and therefore will have no black pigment anywhere on the body, including the eyes and nose. Cafe Au lait - This is a shiny light tan color and some confused this with silver beige. It is not uncommon for the pup to be born brown and 'clear' to this color. A Cafe Au lait should have liver points and dark amber eyes. Black - A true black Poodle is a deep ink black. The dog's coat will have zero blue or silver tinting and not have any white or silver guard hairs. The face when shaved will be deep black, as well. A true black will not "clear" or "fade". Blacks will have black points and dark brown eyes. See More: Black Poodles. Silver Beige - This is a diluted brown, therefore a true silver beige Poodle is born brown. By 6 weeks, silver beige will appear on the face and paws with a full coat change by the age of 2 years. The dog will have liver points and dark amber eyes. Red - This only became an official color in and now many breeders in Canada have come together to form the Apricot Red Poodle Club. A true red will have black points. Read about the fascinating history of reds here: Red Poodles. Silver - A true silver Poodle is born black and "clears" by the age of 2. However, you will know a true silver by the age of 6 weeks, when the face and paws "clear" and the rest of the coat will follow in suit over the next year or two. Silvers will have black points and dark brown eyes. This color is a diluted gray, caused by the silver allele V gene. White - Most white Poodles are a pure, snow white. However, some breeders will dub a white tinted with apricot or beige as being white. A bit of black spotting is acceptable on a white, however there should never be any ticking in the white. The ticking gene is a totally separate gene that makes the coat appear dirty. Gray - While a Poodle can be born gray and stay gray, it is also not uncommon for a black Poodle to turn gray at the age of years old. Cream - These Poodles will have black points; you'll know that a Poodle is cream and not Silver Beige or Cafe au Lait if his nose is black. It is the Cch gene which causes an otherwise brown Poodle to be cream. Color Changes When a Poodle puppy is a solid, one must understand that many variables can affect what will become the adult coat. When a pup keeps the same color coat, this is known as "holding". However, many Poodles 'clear'. To clear means when the coat fades or lightens to another color. A lightening of the coat does not necessarily occur evenly all over the coat, rather Poodle color will often hold more on the dog's ears and the thicker guard hairs. Cafe Au lait Poodles are born dark brown and change to cafe around the age of 2 yrs Blue Poodles are born black and change over by the age of 2 years Sliver Poodles are born black and change over by the age of 2 years Apricots are often born a dark shade that lightens by the age of 2 years Many owners can become confused as their Poodle takes on a completely different color as they grow. For example, a blue Poodle puppy could be misinterpreted as black, although a reputable breeder should be able to know the difference. If that puppy has parents with parti in the bloodline, as the coat clears during the first 2 years, other colors may appear and the once black looking puppy who was actually a blue parti becomes a parti with a wide array of possible colors. Fixing a Dull or Yellowing Coat It is common for a Poodle's coat to dull, become brassy or yellow as the dog matures. Sunlight, air pollution and constant bombardment of minuscule debris are at work here, in addition to the natural aging process cycling out a duller color than a Poodle once had. At all times, each hair strand is in 1 of the 3 phases: Growth, rest or release. Therefore, it is a gradual process.Owners may not notice a difference in the richness, depth and shine of the coat until the process has been going on for a while and enough hairs have grown in faded or dulled to make a drastic difference. The key to fixing and maintaining a beautiful color on a Poodle is to use a color enhancing shampoo. There are some great ones manufactured specifically for canines. In addition, while in general one does not want to use a human product on a puppy or dog, as long as the PH balance is correct, it most certainly can be used with excellent results. When a black, blue, or brown dog has the mutation in this gene, they gradually fade in color as they grow. Not all black, blue, or brown poodles have the mutation, but some do. You will begin to see the change in color starting at a months of age and it is usually complete by the time the dog is mature. In some dogs there may be small changes throughout the life of the dog. Skin Color Skin color can change as well. The most common reason for a Poodle to have a change of color on the skin is exposure to sunlight and this most commonly happens on the belly. It is not uncommon for a pink belly to have darker spots appear. An owner should be concerned if those darker spots are raised above the skin and should have the dog's veterinarian take a look at any raised, dark areas. In the monthly Poodle blog Topic of the Month , you'll find new, helpful articles on a regular basis. All rights reserved. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Share Us. Any photos that are not mine, I have permission from owners to post. I will also include facts about new testing for modifiers and intensity genes that have been found within the last year or so. Some very exciting things will be coming our way for color testing! There are three legitimate and ethical breed clubs that are the main registries in the US and Canada for solids and these are their breed standards. Please do not be fooled by breeders trying to sell you dogs registered with these clubs. On the flip side however, dogs registered or shown in the clubs above do not guarantee quality dogs or an ethical breeder. Any dog not owned by myself past or present, have been given to me with permission from their owners. Huge thanks to their owners for their permission and photos and their breeders for bringing these beautiful dogs into the world! Cream "e" E locus-photo Harper Alue Poodles Cream is a color that tends to fade into white as the dog ages. As puppies they can either have a cream coloring behind the ears or their whole body can be cream. As adults they can retain spots of cream behind the ears like Harper here. Some dogs do keep a cream tint into adulthood like the dog below. Creams should have dark eyes and dark inky black pigment in their points; their nose, eye rims, lips, and pads. If you have a cream born with liver points, they have incorrect pigment. Creams should have black or self colored ie clear nails. White "e" E locus We have the last in the E series, white! White is timeless, white is classic. White Poodles should have dark eyes, nice dark inky black pigment on their noses and eye rims. They should also have black or self colored nails. Whites can also get what is called "snow nose" across many breeds; in the winter, their dark pigment will fade into a liver color that will then return in the summer. This is not the same as poor pigment. You will see white Poodles with both dark, almost black looking skin when shaved in a Continental, and they can also have white skin. Dark pigment is preferred but there is nothing wrong with a dog with light skin. With whites, there are a number born with a slighty creamy tinge to their coat but grow out into a white coat. True whites, called "ice white" in the breed, are rather rare. Reds tend to fade to an apricot color or a light "washed out" red. There are of course reds who do not fade, but when purchasing a red be aware it's a possibility. There are breeders working towards breeding dark, holding reds, but that can also be a catch .Reds should have dark eyes and dark, inky black points; eye rims, lips, nose, and pads. If a red has liver pigment or spotty pigment, that is incorrect and is a major fault in the breed ring. Reds should have black or self colored ie "brown" nails. Apricot is a less intense version of red. Apricots tend to keep their color more, but they also can start out darker and fade to a shade of dark cream. Apricots should also have dark, inky black pigment on their points, however amber eyes and liver points are permitted but not desired. Apricots should have black or self colored nails as well. Apricots and reds are the "newest" color in the history of the breed, so unfortunately the history with these lines and how the popularity of them exploded, they were bred for color for a very long time before temperament, structure, and health were put first. Brown "b" b locus Firstly it needs to be said that Poodles are not chocolate, they are brown. Brown is recessive to black, which is why it is "b" instead of "B". Brown Poodles will always have lighter eyes, liver points, and self colored nails. Browns, like reds, are affected by fading. There are browns that are holding, but when purchasing a brown be aware fading will happen to a certain degree. There are breeders that are working towards breeding holding browns, and there is inherently nothing wrong with that as long as temperament, health, and breed type come first before coat color. Black "B" B locus Black Poodles. Timeless, classic, stunning!! Blacks should be born inky black and should stay inky black. However, you will hear the term "bad black" which is different from a blue dog. A bad black simply refers to a dog that does not hold it's coat pigment. A black dog who's coat has been sun damaged does not mean it is a bad black. Black dogs should have dark eyes, inky black pigment from top to bottom! Blues will look black when they are born, but there is an "old breeders tale" that blue and silver puppies will have white hairs in between their toes, but that is not a blanket truth. Blue Poodles will fade at varying speeds and degree. The two blues included are siblings but have not faded to the same degree. Most will fade into their 5th and 6th birthdays, but there are also some who hold onto a very slight blue tint for years. Blues will have dark eyes and dark pigment on their eye rims, noses, lips, and paw pads. Nails will also be black. One that is my personal favorite and one that has stumped us for quite some time! Silver is a recessive to black like blue. Silvers are born black and by their first face shave their face should start to be silvering. Silvers, like blues, do not fade on a set scale. It is thought there are modifiers in play that determine how blues and silvers clear and to what degree. You can see silvers from a darker color all the way to platinum silver. Silvers should have dark eyes and dark inky black eye rims, lips, nose, and paw pads. My favorite brownies! Silver beiges are brown based silvers, and like silvers, you will see by their first face shave a silver brown color. Silver beige Poodles are born brown and lighten with age, by two most are a beautiful silver color with a stunning brown hue, but all fade at different speeds and different shades. Silver beige Poodles will have light eyes, liver points, and self colored nails. There is no such color. These puppies are creams with incorrect pigment and incorrect eye color. This is usually a result of browns that have a heavy background of cream. This is why it is so important to never breed browns to cream, red or apricot. Please, before buying a poodle, do your research. You should never be charged more money for an exotic color or a color that is a fault. On this page we will discuss these colors and try to show the difference between them. A glistening, startling white. There are at least two kinds of white, white 1 and white 2. The only visible difference between the two is that white 2 is more likely to have pink skin rather than a bluish black or silver skin. The eyes are jet black, so dark that one hardly can distinguish the iris from the pupil. Eyerims, nose, and toenails are black. The skin is bluish black or silver, a solid color. Common Faults: Such dogs may have a pink skin or a pink skin mottled with black or blue spots. This is a very minor fault and only should be counted by the judge if a white dog of equal quality with a black or silver skin is in the ring, or against a colored dog, equally good, with perfect coloring. It should not disturb the breeder. Such dogs may have white toenails. The same conclusion applies to this as to the skin color above. Such dogs may have a partially pink eyerim or one whole pink eyerim, or a pink spot on the nose or on the lips, with or without pink eyerims. These are major show faults which the breeder must not ignore, and such dogs should be bred only to a strain carrying very strong black pigment. Such dogs may have brown eyes rather than the so-called "dead black. Such dogs may have a small spot of completely black hair, a show fault if the spot is discovered or is in plain sight. The famous Champion Broadrun Cherry had such a spot back of his wide, well feathered ear. No effort was made to disguise it, and no judge ever observed it. We ourselves only discovered it when washing the dog. At any rate, the breeder can overlook such a fault. Question: Will white bred to white produce white? Answer: Not always. Again, we cannot be sure of the number of genes responsible for white or how they are paired, but if we go by the theory that white is inherited in a similar manner to brown, we can see why a black or other colored puppy appears in a litter from time to time from white parents. That is, the parents of such a litter are each a different kind of white and when bred together their recessive genes which would normally block other colors cannot act. Therefore black puppies can appear. There are probably other genes that we do not know about involved in these crosses. It is these and the introduction of other color crosses which produce the mottled skin. Question: Will breeding black to white improve the white type? Answer: Only if there is no other means available and the white is truly inferior in type. As a rule the whites have better coats, better bone, and equally good temperaments. Some of the continental whites are slightly round in the skull and heavy in muzzle. Still, I have seen plenty of blacks like this, too. Question: What is the best color other than white to breed to white for type? Answer: Black. Question: In breeding white to black to improve type, how can one return safely to white? Answer: Breed the hybrid offspring of the black and white union to a white-bred white of the same kind of white as the original white. Question: Will breeding a white and a black produce gray? Question: Does breeding white to white finally produce albinos? Answer: No, not unless one "downgrades" one's breeding. For instance, breeding a dog with inferior pigment to another relative with poor pigment is downgrading color pigment. One should never use albinos themselves for breeding. Question: Suppose an albino has perfect type? Answer: No matter, do not use it. With time, patience, and intelligence one can acquire an equally good type in a sound and healthy animal. Deafness and weak eyes frequently accompany albinism. Question: Are there any colors which should not be bred to white? Answer: Whenever white is bred to another color, a risk is taken. Remember that the white color is caused by two recessive blocking genes in combination with other genes. When white is bred to another color which does not carry these recessive blocking genes, any color which these may have blocked in the white may come out. For example, if a white which carries black that is masked by the blocking genes is bred to a brown, very likely the puppies will all be bad blacks. If such a white is bred to gray the color of your gray is not likely to appear in the puppies. If you are lucky, you may get a blue, but most likely you will get poorly colored blacks or grays. This is provided that the silver carries none of the white genes. In that case you may get a white. Question: Is white popular in the show ring and with the public? Answer: It is the best color of all, in my opinion, for show purposes. The dazzling purity of white arouses sympathy and admiration, and the color contrast of the black eyes and nose is truly beautiful and dramatic. It is very hard for any color to defeat a good white. On the other hand, white puppies do not sell as well as the darker colored ones. People feel that they will get dirty too easily and be hard to keep as house pets. Question: Are there many white lines and top winning dogs from these lines? Answer: There certainly are, in all three varieties. The great winning whites are too numerous to mention. All three of these dogs produced many Best in Show winners. All three are behind a great many winners in their varieties. Both Duc and Promise are behind the excellent white Standard line established by Alekai, which includes many famed winners see Alekai Kennel story. Koeppel's Champion J. Indeed, white Poodles have brought many honors to the breed. WHITNEY University of Nebraska Well-groomed white Poodles, with the contrasting colors of their jet-black noses and white coats have been popular in some of the European countries for a long time and are beginning to be favorites in some sections of this country. There are two kinds: the ivory-whites with a few apricot-colored hairs in their coats, indicating that they would have been apricots if they had not been white; and the snow-whites or ice-whites with a few black hairs in their coats, indicating that they would have been black dogs if they had not been white. Their white color is caused by the activity of a pair of recessive genes, the extremely white piebald genes which prevent the formation of pigment in the hairs. Spotting Many amateur Poodle breeders consider themselves fortunate in having selected solid-colored breeding stocks with which to start their kennels. They even may boast of their solid-colored puppies but, after a while, one of their puppies may be born with small white spots on its chest. Its appearance seems a mystery and immediate resolutions are made to destroy it with the hope that there will be no more born like it. Such hopes are seldom realized! The white spots are the result of the activities of recessive genes which have been in the stock in an inactive state, perhaps for many generations, until in the present mating, when two of them have been inherited by the puppy, one from each parent, forming a pair which at once begin to prevent the formation of pigment in the hair of small areas on the chest. The other puppies in the litter were lucky in not receiving a pair of these genes, but probably received one which they may pass on to their offspring for making white spots in later generations. Some of the dogs in other breeds, as Fox Terriers, Collies, Pointers, Cocker Spaniels and others, have larger white areas or spots in their coats due to another pair of recessive, depigmenting genes. In the white Bull Terrier the white area is so large as to nearly cover the whole coat sometimes it does , leaving only a black spot of color on the head or ear. A third pair of recessive, depigmenting genes, the extremely white piebald genes, cause the large white area to further increase in size so as to actually cover the entire dog, but leaving a few traces of the original coat color in a few of the hairs, as in many of the white dogs of other breeds. The nose, eyes, lips and footpads are not affected but retain their original black color. Ivory-white Poodles The white Poodles having traces of apricot colors easily may be identified by placing either the dog or a generous sample of its hair against a white background of paper or cloth. The ivory tints will be evident at once. There is considerable variation in the extent and depth of the apricot coloring in the coats. Sometimes it may be a conspicuous biscuit colormg on the ears or even throughout the entire coat, but in others the traces are practically unnotice- able to an ordinary observer. Some people state that there also may be pink tints in the coats of some dogs. In many coats the apricot hairs may be readily seen in direct sunlight or by using a reading glass or in microscopic prepara- tions of hair samples. Snow-white Poodles The white Poodles having traces of black hair easily may be identified as ivory-whites by placing them against a white background. No ivory tints will be seen but their coats will be a cold-white color. Some dogs, however have more traces of black in their coats than others, and may appear slightly grayish in places or throughout their entire coats. An examination of the coats in strong sunlight usually will show a few black hairs, or by using a hand lens, or by observing prepared samples of the hair under a microscope. Puppies As the genes for white are recessive, a pair of white Poodles always produce white puppies, which may appear whiter than their parents, owing to more enclosed minute air globules in their hairs than in adult dogs. When the puppies mature, very few of their new, small fur hairs contain air globules, resulting in a diminishing of the intense whiteness in their adult coats. A pair of ivory-whites will produce ivory-white puppies. A mating of an ivory-white, with an apricot-colored dog will produce all apricot-colored puppies in various shades of apricot, which are likely to fade readily in the sunlight. A pair of snow-white dogs may produce either snow-white or ivory-white puppies, depending on whether or not they carry apricot genes in their underlying black color. The submerged black and apricot in the white dogs may carry as many recessive-color genes as any ordinary black or apricot dog. No one can predict with any assurance, what the colors of puppies will be when one parent is white and the other one colored, except in the mating of an ivory- white and an apricot. Two white dogs mated to colored ones have been reported to have produced not only black, apricot and white but also brown and silver puppies. Blue and the undesirable black-and-tan genes may be carried by apricots and blacks, so no one should be surprised to see these colors appear from the matings of some of the whites with colored dogs. As all the genes for the various kinds of white spotting are recessive, a single one of these genes may be carried in a dormant state for many genera- tions in solid-colored Poodles. But when it meets another similar gene in a puppy, white areas are developed in the coat. It was reported some years ago, that after 19 successive generations of black breeding, a pure white extreme white piebald puppy was born in a litter of black puppies. At that time it seemed unexplainable, but with the present knowledge of the laws of in- heritance, such a sudden appearance of a white puppy is no longer mysterious. From: This is the Poodle — Lester H. It is dazzling. It stands out especially when the group and best in show awardsare done at dusk. But since every fault stands out so clearly the white showdog must be much better than a black. Whites have improved so tremendously in the past few years that they area very popular color again with the public, in fact the Toys than any otherfor a medium priced tiny pet. Pale creams with their jet black noses anddeep eye rims and appealing little faces are also eagerly loved. Actually the color "white" in poodles covers as wide a range as any othercolor. Granted a white may vary from the white of fresh snow to a cream sopale it appears to be white. The great difference in whites occurs not really in the color of the mature dogs coat as in the color of the pigment. There are whites with black noses and dark skins, whites with brown noses, whites with pink skins and whites with spotted noses or black noses and spotted skins and finally whites with dark and fading noses. Now the public does not usually expect a jet black nose at six wks. Many lines of whites are, as puppies, buff colored all over. Some misinformed people call these apricots. Most turn creamy white at maturity. Now a breeder insists on a black nose at six wks. There is very little difference on the mature coat color of a stark white to a pale cream but there may be a much wider variety in the pigment by which Imean nose color, eye rim color and skin color. The Poodle Standard in color reads in part: "White poodles have black noses, eye rims and lips. Black or self colored toenails and very dark eyes. I have seen best in show white miniatures with spotted skin and many with faded noses and these have become champions. However, most breeders will agree that a dark skinned snow white with jet black non--fading pigment is the ultimate aim. Bred together they breed true. However, for practical purposes the almost black skinned light creams which appear white are also excellentas seldom does the pigment fade and they almost always have dark skinfurthermore they can usually be bred to off nosed whites for all black nosed puppies. Personally I would far rather have an ecur or milky colored white with great pigment than a stark white with fading nose or a half pink eye rim. The faint difference of coat is so little compared to the total effect. Variations of whites at 6 wks. Coat color varies a. Skin color varies a. Note spots on stomach. Remains spotted throughout life. Nose pigment varies a. Jet deep blackshould not fade. Will fade at maturity. Some people like pink skinned white with black noses and others prefer dark skinned white with black noses. Either is correct. White bred to white usually produces white. In my experience it always breeds true. Only the all over dark skinned whites with no skin color-break may be bred to color. Pink skinned and especially spotted skinned whites are dangerous as the spots may become spotted hair instead of only the skin. Unless you really know your line it is safer to stay within your color. But when you have a white irrespective of what colors it came from you can on my experience, safely breed it to another white irrespective of it's color background. When you have your litter of tiny black nosed stark white puppies with their little fat purple stomachs I can assure you there is nothing so beautiful. You will never get tired of just looking at them. To get pigment in your puppies, chose a black skinned, black nosed sire either white or light cream 3. Do not breed a spotted skinned white to a darker colored dog. Use ordinary corn starch as a cleansing agent. Keep on white paper or towels. There are, however, two very different types of whites and they are often difficult to distinguish between at maturity. These are the true whites ice whites or paper whites and the cream whites which are so light faded as to appear totally white. The two terms "white" and "cream" should not be used loosely and incorrectly as they so often are. It can be seen that they are absolutely different colors, though both recessive-the first the total absence of color, the other the furthest dilution of brown. Professor David D. Whitney's summary and conclusion after extensive examination of hair samples of a number of white breeds, including white Poodles, stated "The Poodles with icy white coats belong to the black hair type, those with warmer tones in their white coats belong to the yellow hair type. Corroborated by microscopic examinations and breeding reports. Thus, scientific data confirms the experience of practical breeders. It is, of course, obvious that white dogs of colored breeding that carry even a tiny amount of color even in a few hairs of their coat are not genetically white, and undoubtedly carry cream and possibly apricot genes as well. The late Commander T. Norman Hinton wrote in the English Our Dogs of considerable work done by him and other British breeders on this subject. His finding was that many white Poodles that look white are in reality faded creams and not genetically pure white at all. He believed, after a great many years of breeding whites exclusively, that the puppy that is whelped cream and later turns white is simply a faded cream and should be considered cream throughout life. The fact that the color bred whites usually offered far superior genetic background for type as in the cases of Ch. Snow Boy of Fircot and Ch. Summercourt Square Dancer of Fircot made them popular at stud. In addition to superior type, the cream whites usually have dark skin pigment, black points and non-patterned skin. The cream whites, primarily through Square Dancer and his great influence, have dominated the Miniature show ring for years. The glistening ice white Standards as best exemplified by the earlier Alekais are seen less frequently due to black crosses at Alekai and elsewhere. Cream or cream whites are often beautiful animals with excellent pigment. Acadia Command Performance, Best in Show at Westminster in , was a beautiful example of a faded cream. The point being made is that there are two different types of whites and breeders should be aware of this fact. Fortunately, two whites or faded whites , irrespective of their back- grounds, will produce a whole litter of whites or faded whites with no mismarking problems. By Mackey J. Not just tan, more yellow in tone and a lighter color than the lightest tan. The eyes are deep, soft brown; the jet black eye should not appear in a cream, being unbecoming to this color. Eyerims, nose, lips, and toenails are a very dark brown or black. The skin is blue and sometimes a tawny pink; it , should not be spotted. Common Faults: Such dogs may have white toenails. This is a very minor fault and should not worry the breeder. Such dogs may have liver nose and eyerims. This, too, is a very minor fault and should not worry the breeder. Such dogs may have lemon colored or pale tan ears. This is a fault in the ring but need not disturb the breeder. Such dogs may appear streaked in color, such as lemon or pale tan streaks up the back. This is a show fault but need not disturb the breeder. Such dogs may have light brown eyes, almost yellow in tone. This is a fault in the ring, and the I breeder should hesitate before using such a dog. Light eyes are hard to overcome, particularly in light-colored dogs. Such dogs may fade to almost a pure white and have, nevertheless, brown rather than black eyes and brown rather than black noses. They often do, and this is just unfortunate in the ring, as it destroys their chances. It need not disturb the breeder unless he, too, has considered the dog as a white. The difference between a true white and a faded cream is as follows: The true white has no lemon or pale tan in the coat. There is no "streakiness" in the coat of a true white, while there is in a faded cream. Question: Is cream a true color? Aryswer: Yes. It is not just a dirty white. The puppies are born cream, sometimes darker than the adult. Question: Could one establish a cream line? Answer: We think one could, but it would be difficult because creams seldom reproduce the same shade as themselves. They usually tend toward white. We do not know of a cream line. Question: What is the best color to preserve cream? Answer: Another cream related on the cream, not white, side of the pedigree. Question: What is the best color to breed away from creams? Answer: White. Question: What colors are not advisable to breed with creams? Answer: Black, blue, brown, cafe-au-lait, gray, and apricot, in that order. Question: Have there ever been any great show winning creams? Answer: Indeed there have been, both here and in England. Champion Braevel Biscuit was another. Question: Is cream a popular color in the show ring and with the public? Answer: Not particularly, as this color all too often is considered a poor white. The color is not as dramatic as the pure white. The public often considers a cream a poor white, thus cream puppies do not sell too well, By Mrs Hoyt — The Book of the Poodle The color of good, rich Jersey cream. AKC removed this color from the poodle color choices years ago. Champagne is now encompassed into the cream category now. Cream standard pup at 6 weeks Cream miniature puppy.

They double both as your best friend and excellent therapy and service dogs. All of the dogs you can get from this breeder are tested for various diseases and have passed their tests. On their website, you can go over the adoption process and become a proud owner of one of their beautiful Labradoodles today. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. These days I have two adorable fuzzy rascals around me, that ensures I get plenty of exercise and laughter throughout my day! Legal Information The owner of this site, LabradoodleHome. This site also participates in other affiliate programs and is compensated for referring traffic and business to these companies. Labradoodle Home does not intend to provide veterinary advice. All articles and posts are aimed at giving users a better understanding of their dogs. The content on this blog is not a substitute for veterinary guidance. Amazon OneLink. Looking for the perfect Hanukkah or Christmas present? A Spring puppy.Our waitlist is open and we are accepting deposits. My Labradoodle changed and enriched my life. I promised myself that if I was ever able to find the perfect dogs with outstanding pedigrees I would do it once. After our first breeding and puppy training experience our family fell in love. Our children experienced a world that one cannot teach a child without seeing and experiencing in their everyday life. They were opened to a world of emotional and physical sacrifice, and tender loving joy. Our goal going forward is to create Low- No shedding dogs in a variety of sizes, with a Teddy Bear look. What makes us different from other breeders? We pride ourselves in our authentic approach to breeding and training. Our loving integrity is shown in the quality of puppies we breed, raise, and train. We are truly fortunate and blessed to be able to breed dogs that are desirable for the busy family. Since we know how important the puppy prep-school training is for the success for the adoptive family, we keep the puppies on a tight training schedule. We care for our puppies around the clock with puppy-sitters. Exercise and Nutrition is of utmost importance to us. We feed our dogs Fromm dog food. When a mother dog is pregnant and nursing our mother dog receives platinum care. She is fed a high-protein Organic diet, along with vitamin supplements to ensure proper nutrition to herself as well as her puppies. Our mother dog enjoys the special attention she receives. IF a mother dog is treated like a Queen she will take even better care of her little princes, and princesses. Our breeding dogs live the life of luxury in their own private family environment. Since we do not believe a dog should exist to breed or live their life in a kennel we use Guardian families. Our parent dogs stay with their family until delivery. We add value to adoptive families by providing a fully crate trained, potty-bell trained, and sleep through the night puppy service. We work hard and do not sleep much so that you can. We raise high-quality Mini Labradoodles as well as a few other breeds. We also have partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini labradoodle pups that meet our strict genetic criteria and testing. So we usually have a good selection of very high-quality puppies. View Our Available Puppies! F1B Mini Labradoodle Puppies are a second-generation cross or hybrid. The father is a Mini Poodle and the mother is an F1 Labradoodle. The F1B Minature Labradoodles usually have soft hair that is usually wavy or curly. Thes puppies are considered semi-hypoallergenic since they shed minimally. These puppies can be a good fit if a person that has mild pet allergies. Once F1B Mini Labradoodles reach 6 months old they require to be groomed once every 8 weeks or so to keep their fur healthy and to stop matting. Adult F1B Mini labradoodle dogs range in size from 14 inches in height and pounds in weight. The average life span is typically years of age. The F1BB puppies usually have curlier coats and will be totally hypoallergenic. Once the F1BB pup is 6 months they will need regular grooming every 6 to 8 weeks. F1BB Puppies are usually slightly smaller than F1B puppies and range from 12 inches in height and pounds in weight. Mini Labradoodles are known for their intelligence and the ability to be trained very easily. They make amazing family pets and love to participate in family activities like swimming, hiking, camping or just playing tag in the yard. This breed is also a good choice for people who live in apartments as long as they get at least minutes of exercise a day. So if you live near Cross Plains Wisconsin and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Labradoodle puppy that can be delivered to you then check out our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are some Mini Labradoodle pups that have been adopted.

Email In this May 2, , photo, law students Josh Richey, 22, right, and Lindsay Stewart, 26, play with Hooch, right, and Stanley, both golden retrievers, between final exams at Emory University in Atlanta. From Emory University to Macalester College in Minnesota, colleges are bringing dogs on campus for stress relief during exams or allowing faculty and staff to bring their pets to campus. Stanley rolls around on the floor and chews on a squeaky toy while zombie-like law students wander in, a giant grin breaking out on their weary faces when they see the cuddly boy. Puppy therapy -- just in time for finals week. From Kent State University in Ohio to Macalester College in Minnesota, more and more pooches are around campus during exams to help students relax and maybe even crack a smile or two. Gifts from individuals power everything you find here. Make a gift of any amount today to become a Member! Heart Pups are in counseling centers for students to visit regularly or faculty and staff bring their pets to lift spirits. Pet-friendly dorms also are popping up where students can bring their dogs or cats from home. Want to check out a pet? It's possible at Harvard Medical School and Yale Law School, which both have resident therapy dogs in their libraries that can be borrowed through the card catalog just like a book. Some dogs, like Harvard Medical School's resident shih tzu Cooper, hold regular office hours. Researcher Loise Francisco-Anderson owns Cooper and said she got permission to bring him to campus after her husband read that Yale Law School had a therapy dog on campus named Monty. Cooper, who sports a crimson scarf with paw prints on it, is so popular that undergraduate students have been petitioning for him to spend time on their side of campus. Many of them take the shuttle across the river to the medical school just to visit the dog on Tuesdays and Thursdays. A pet keeps it confidential. You don't have to worry about someone else saying, 'Oh, I think she's having a nervous breakdown over the science exam,'" said Francisco-Anderson. Most schools, like Emory, partner with organizations that train companion dogs so that the canines get their social training while students get stress relief. Others, like at Harvard, have faculty members bring their dogs -- which are certified to be therapy animals -- to campus certain hours during the week. The service is almost always free for students. Research shows that interaction with pets decreases the level of cortisol -- or stress hormone -- in people and increases endorphins, known as the happiness hormone. Scant research exists on the how pet programs on college campuses help students cope with stress. That's why Kathleen Adamle, a nursing professor at Kent State, hopes to garner a grant so she can conduct research as part of her Dogs on Campus program. Adamle launched the program in with just her dog and has since added 11 other therapy canines to the team that visits dorms regularly throughout the year. The dogs belong to Adamle or other community members and are certified therapy dogs. She has plenty of anecdotal evidence that her program works. As soon as there's a tragedy on campus -- a student dies in a car wreck, for example -- dorms scramble to book the dog team to help comfort upset students, she says. The kids are crying, and they grab the dog and put their face in the fur and just let it go," Adamle said. Since , Macalester College in St. Paul, Minn. At Kenyon College in Ohio, the counseling center and dorms offer puppy play dates with Sunny the yellow lab and Sam the poodle-Chihuahua mix. Last month, Indiana University students romped around with dogs in the first ever Rent-a-Puppy day. First-year Emory law student Anna Idelevich took a break from studying for exams at the library on a recent afternoon to visit Stanley and Hooch, two golden retrievers training to be companion dogs for disabled owners. The private university brought in the dogs as part of a new program to help students cope with the stress of exams. This is the best thing that's ever happened to me," said Idelevich, .If they don't do it next year, I'll be upset. Reschedule your appointment if you are ill Wear a mask if you prefer masks available Call from your car if you wish to continue car-side services We will continue to re-evaluate the Covid situation for our employees and our customers. Please call our office for assistance in meeting your pet's needs during this difficult time. Our clinic has served Southern Minnesota since by providing the highest quality medical, surgical, and educational services. We strive for the highest integrity and compassion in our interactions with our patients and their human companions. Now open until 6pm on Monday, Wednesday and Thursday! High Tech.High Touch.Kenyon Vet! To address the significance of oral health care for pets, the American Veterinary Medical Association and several veterinary groups are sponsoring National Pet Dental Health Month in February. We provide exams, diagnosis, consultative services, cleanings, and extractions. Call Kenyon Vet Clinic today for a dental appointment for your pet. Kenyon Vet Clinic offers quality and compassionate veterinary care at a fair price. Testimonials Thank you so much for taking the time to see my guest's dog today. They were very thankful for a "good" diagnosis and were able to relax for the rest of the holiday weekend. You guys ROCK! Jodi Silvernail Thank you to Sara, Dr. Born and all of the staff for taking such great care of Jasiah. He is recovering great! Your care and consideration always go above and beyond what you have to do! Heather Rae De Frang We appreciate the care, compassion shown to Stevie Wonder our lovable rescue dog during his recent surgery. Stevie appeared to be fully recovered a few days later. Amy Morgan The Kenyon Veterinary Clinic is the most wonderful clinic that we have ever been associated with. The veterinarians are up-to-date on the latest technology and procedures and the technicians are well-trained and educated. Everyone at the clinic is very compassionate and helpful. Susan and Bill Syring. The latest start date would be September 1, .The Mayor told KDHL Sjoblom is a very good fit for Kenyon because he knows the community through the school district work, understands Minnesota laws and has lived in the area for a long time. Sjoblom is a Cannon Falls High School graduate. He then attended Rochester Community and Technical College. Sjoblom and his wife have three children. The eldest, a boy, is in the 8th grade. There are two daughters, 6th grade and 3 years old. The family did attend the Council meeting Tuesday where the selection of the new Kenyon Police Chief was finalized. Mayor Henke also pointed out the Goodhue County Sheriff's Department Deputy has worked in recent years with the 5th and 6th grade Kenyon-Wanamingo football team as a volunteer coach. Outgoing Chief Lee Sjolander's last day is July 31, .There were 8 finalists for the position and Mayor Henke said in his opinion Sjoblom was clearly the best candidate and he's happy he accepted the job. Interesting information you may not be aware of. Do you have any clue as to how many billionaires might be residing there? Sometimes there are animal calls officers need to respond to. LOOK: The least obedient dog breeds. Caras Wednesday morning, north of St. The day will be warm, the breeze slight. Lift gates open. Tailgates drop. Dogs bound to the ground. Another training day. So it goes, as it does most summer days, on the fields of Kelley Farms in Marine on St. A vast livestock operation, with grass-fed beef as its centerpiece, Kelley Farms is also heaven on Earth for sporting dog trainers, perhaps especially retriever trainers. Feed Loader Schreiner runs hunt test with some clients dogs and field-trials others. Consider Jeff Kolanski, a professional trainer of retrievers. Training alone on this morning, Kolanski has a dog box on his pickup and is pulling a trailer on which he carries a four-wheeler and other gear, including remote bird throwers that can launch training dummies from distant locations. On this morning, his final dog to train is a 5-month-old chocolate Lab, a fun-loving female who trails a foot check cord, so Kolanski can control her as necessary. On this training day, the goal is to expose the young dog to new and different situations. To that end, and heeling her alongside him using the check cord, Kolanski soon triggers a remote thrower, which arches a dead duck high into the air. And she does, quickly out and back, she beams with self-satisfaction on the return trip, happy to retrieve, and wanting to again. Bob Larkin, 73, grew up in Kenyon, Minn. His dad was a hunter, and when Bob retired from the Navy in , he intensified his lifelong interest in chasing pheasants and ducks, and also in retrieving dogs. Now we have five, all Labs. A bit of an outlier in the retriever game, Liemohn has owned American water spaniels since , and now counts a pair of this versatile breed among her training partners, as well as two Labradors. Two of her water spaniels have earned their Master retriever titles, the only two so honored. Paul at Kelley Farms. You develop a special relationship when you work with a dog every day, far more so than if you and your dog just hang around together. In hunt tests, by contrast, dogs enter in Junior, Senior and Master levels and are judged against standards, with increasingly difficult challenges facing dogs and handlers as they rise through the three title ranks. Wednesday afternoon, retriever pro Greg Schreiner of Stacy, Minn. Schreiner runs hunt tests with some client dogs, and field-trials others. Gallaty, by contrast, runs neither hunt tests nor field trials. I just use them for hunting, but I like to keep them in shape. Each involves a dead bird thrown after a shot from a blank pistol, and each requires the dogs to cross at least one large pond to find the downed bird. Distances range from about yards to about yards. One group had worked with Junior dogs, another with Seniors and Masters. Though bird hunting is far more popular among men than women, retriever training and handling is somewhat more equally distributed between the sexes. Making the point, Kathy Strong of Cumberland, Wis. Paul, among others. Mach owns three Labradors, and has been a member of Northern Flight since .Also a longtime club member, Kiey owns two golden retrievers. The pair travel to hunt tests throughout Minnesota and neighboring states. Yet no one seemed in a hurry to leave. Instead, small talk ensued among the handlers; some of it, inevitably, about dogs, some about the hunt test this weekend and some about nothing much at all. This was summer in Minnesota, after all, and friends with common interests were hanging out, satisfied that their dogs had made a little progress, and would make still more on the next training day. Outdoors columnist Dennis Anderson joined the Star Tribune in after serving in the same positions at the St. Paul Pioneer Press for 13 years. His column topics vary widely, and include canoeing, fishing, hunting, adventure travel and conservation of the environment.

The downfall is that you have to help your puppy get comfortable in the crate or they might start whining and never stop. Our vets at Dunnellon Animal Hospital in Citrus County, FL are here to remind you why crate training is so important and how you can stop that annoying whining. If your dog has been crying in the crate a lot, you may start questioning if it's worth it, or if it's even in your dog's best interest. Crate training can help reduce destruction while your puppy is still learning boundaries, help with potty training, provide a safe place to rest, and keep nervous animals away from guests. Our Citrus County vets belive that a crate is an important tool that all dogs should at least be comfortable with in case they need to be crated for safety such as when traveling. Dogs will whine in their crate for a number of reasons including boredom, loneliness, fear, anxiety, or they need to be let outside. All of these reactions are perfectly normal, and it is your job as an owner to make your pup feel comfortable and get used to their new crate. It might take some time, but once you figure out the reason your dog is so uncomfortable, these techniques can help to stop the behavior. Make your puppy comfortable in their new crate Familiarizing your puppy with his crate is one way to help cut down on anxiety and reduce whining. Your puppy needs the opportunity to feel comfortable and happy in this new space before they get locked in Your puppy shouldn't feel like their crate is a punishment, so make sure they are given the opportunity to go in and out during the day and fill it with soft bedding and fun, puppy safe toys, and give them rewards when they chose to go in on their own. Ignore the behavior One of the most common mistakes new pet owners make it to give their puppy attention or let them out once they start whining. Giving them attention could reinforce this behavior. The puppy can be released after waking up from his nap or after a few minutes of quiet behavior. Tire your puppy out If your puppy is tired from playing, they're far less likely to make a fuss about being in their crate. If their need for activity and attention is already met, they are less likely to seek attention once they've been placed in their crate. Pick the right sized crate Puppies should have enough space in their crates to help them feel comfortable. A properly sized dog crate allows your dog to stand up and turn so they can play with their toys. Consider dog crates that have a divider that you can use to adjust the size of the crate as your puppy grows. Make sure they've had plenty of potty breaks Your puppy isn't able to control their bladder as well as adult dogs, so it's important that they get outside for regular potty breaks so they don't have to whine to tell you they have to go outside. A 2-month-old puppy can usually hold in their urine for three hours, and a 3-month-old puppy can generally hold it for four hours, but it's better to be safe than sorry when it comes to potty breaks. Even if they could hold it in for longer, it's a good idea to let them out frequently so you don't have to bring them into our Citrus County vet clinic for urinary issues from holding it in too long. If the crate is in an area that is isolated such as a basement or garage, they may feel scared and start whining. In addition to helping your puppy feel less anxious, keeping the crate close will allow you to hear when your puppy needs to go outside. While puppy whining is not uncommon, pet parents should be on the lookout for any excessive whining or unusual behavior—whether a puppy is crated or not. A little bit of puppy whining in the crate is to be expected but if a puppy is reactive the entire time they are crated, or they injure themselves in an attempt to escape, it's important to bring your pooch in to our veterinary hospital to talk to our Dunnellon and Citrus County vets right away to discuss some options. Note: The advice provided in this post is intended for informational purposes and does not constitute medical advice regarding pets. For an accurate diagnosis of your pet's condition, please make an appointment with your vet. Every puppy is different so crate training can be difficult no matter how many times you've done it. Contact our veterinarians in Dunnellon, Citrus County, and Marion County Florida today to receive expert guidance to solve your pup's issues. By Kern Campbell Crate training is one of the most effective and efficient ways of training your dog, especially while there is still a puppy. However, crate training your new puppy has its challenges like any other method. Additionally, some people want you to believe that crate training is not humane and cruel. According to most animal humane societies and dog experts, crate training is not harsh and is advisable. One of the main challenges most pet parents face when crate training is how long to let the pup cry in a crate? Never leave your puppy to cry in a crate for more than five minutes for the first few weeks after adopting them. If you ignore their cries, they may develop a negative feeling or perspective towards the crate. In contrast, if you rush to their attention immediately after they start crying, they may create a habit of crying, so you let them out. The primary and most important thing is to do crate training properly and do it in a way that encourages your puppy to participate and be willing to accept crating. Like any form of training your will expose your puppy to, you will face challenges when crate training your puppy. So, how do you effectively crate train your puppy, and what are some of the challenges you will face? Read on to find out more! Crate Training Explained When done the right way, crate training can be a great and helpful tool for training your puppy. It is an excellent way to provide your newly adopted dog with a feeling of stability and safety. Another advantage of crate training is that it offers you, the new puppy parent , a means of instituting rules or orders in the house. Is Crate Training Okay? This is one of the major concerns about crate training that most pet parents may have. Yes, crate training is okay! Naturally, dogs are den animals. While in the wild, a dog will have a den which is both their haven and home. The shelter provides them with a safe space to retreat, sleep and even raise their puppies without worrying about outside threats or danger. Now, for your newly adopted puppy, the crate is the best way for you to fulfill their instinctual need for their own safe space. It will be where they will nap and even hide whenever it storms. It is best if you let the Golden Doodle puppy whine until they stop, provided you have taken care of all their needs. Do not rush to let them out immediately after they start crying since it will encourage them to cry out louder and longer next time. Let them cry for five minutes when you start crate training and increase the duration with time. However, do not leave your puppy in the crate for a whole day. They may develop a phobia about the crate and refuse to get in every time you try. They may also end up crying even more. The Process of Crate Training Your Puppy There are many different crates available at local and online pet supply stores. Some of these crates are plastic, while others are collapsible metal pens. The crates are also available in different sizes and as such, remember to choose one with enough space for your puppy to turn and stand. The process of crate training your puppy does not have a clear expected completion period. In most cases, this process may take anywhere from a few days to several weeks. Before you begin training your puppy, two things you need to know for the process to be effective are; to ensure the crate training process is a pleasant and positive experience for your dog and that the training should be done in small steps. Bring the puppy over to the crate while talking to them positively and calmly. Slowly motivate the puppy to get into the crate by placing small amounts of treats close to the crate. Follow this up by placing the treats inside the door and then close to the back of the crate. Getting the puppy into the crate may take a few minutes to several days. Do not force the puppy inside the crate; this process needs to be done slowly and patiently. You may use treats, food, or favorite toys to entice them to get into the crate. This is another way of making your puppy associate the crate with a good experience. When you begin serving them their meals in the crate, do not initially put the food dish at the back of the crate. Start by placing the food inside the crate but closer to the door, and then move it to the back once they are comfortable. When they are comfortable enough, you may start closing the crate door while the puppy is eating and immediately open it when they finish their meal. Slowly start increasing the time the door remains closed after they finish their meals with successive meals. You may start confining them to the crate for short periods while you or other family members are around. When beginning this stage, always call them to their carte and reward them with a treat if they come. Immediately after this, give the puppy the command to get into the crate. If they do so, praise and reward the puppy with another treat. Close the crate door, stay near the crate for around 10 minutes, and then go out of sight for a few minutes. Return to the crate and sit quietly for a few more minutes before opening the crate door and letting the puppy out. Repeat the procedure several times each day while slowly increasing the time you are out of sight of the puppy. The main aim is to get the puppy used to staying in their crate while it is locked for at least 30 minutes with you out of sight. You may also start crating the dog when you leave for short periods, i. If you leave the puppy in a crate and return later, do not reward them for displaying exciting behavior. Ensure that you also keep your return low-key. Also, continue crating the puppy whenever you are at home so that they do not end up associating the crate training process with you leaving them alone. If you are looking to crate the puppy throughout the night, you might want to place the crate close to where you sleep for the initial stages of the process. This will help you hear your puppy at night when they want to be taken out to relieve themselves. You may start moving the crate to your desired location slowly once the puppy is used to sleeping in the crate throughout the night. Potential Problems Of Crating Your Dog Crating the Puppy for Longer Periods Ensure you do not end up crating the dog for longer periods and leaving them alone for longer periods throughout the night. Even though it can be a good idea to crate them for longer periods during the night while they sleep, ensure you give them potty breaks. Also, ensure you cater to all their emotional and physical needs during the day if you intend to crate them during the night. If you have tended to every need your puppy may have, and you have down the training gradually and correctly, your puppy can stay in the crate for about 2 to 3 hours before they need a break. If you put them in the crate after taking care of all their needs and they start whining, do not immediately go and let them out. Let them cry it out, and they should stop if nothing is disturbing them. If the crying continues for a longer time even though you have taken care of all their needs, it may be a sign that you should redo the crate training process. By Dr. Sara Ochoa Is your Goldendoodle constantly whining? There are many different reasons that your Goldendoodle may be whining. Sometimes your dog is whining to get your attention, and sometimes they are trying to let you know that they are hurt or need to go out for a potty break. By paying attention to these noises, you can learn what they are trying to tell you. This article will cover the reasons that your Goldendoodle may be whining and what you can do to training them to stop whining. Your dog is in pain Your dog is scared or anxious They want attention They are excited to see you They want something Once you figure out what is causing your Goldendoodle to whine, you can start training them to not whine. Most of this time, this takes some time and training, but you can teach your do to not whine. Your dog is in pain If your dog is in pain, they will be whining. This whining could be an indication that your Goldendoodle is in physical pain. If they whine every time they try to go up the stairs or jump off the couch, they may have joint pain because of arthritis. You will often see your Goldendoodle limping if they are in pain. If your Goldendoodle is whining and seems to be a little painful, you should take your dog to the vet to get them checked out. If your Goldendoodle is also pacing, trembling, or panting while whining , it is very likely fearful or anxious about something. This could be a new guest or new person living in the house, making your dog nervous, or maybe they are worried because someone is missing. Some does also get scared during fireworks or thunderstorms. If your Goldendoodle is whining anxiously right before you leave your house, this could be a sign of separation anxiety. Dogs who suffer from separation anxiety often have very destructive behaviors when you are gone. This is like how little kids whine when they are bored with what is going on and just want to play. Your Goldendoodle may be whining just because they want someone to play with or need something to occupy them. Make sure you are giving your Goldendoodle enough exercise and other mental stimulation every day. Boredom does not just lead to your Goldendoodle whining; it can also cause your dog to be very destructive. They are excited to see you Some Goldendoodles will whine when you first come home or when they first meet new people. This kind of whining is usually motivated by excitement and may only be seen with new dogs or people. If your Goldendoodle starts to whine every time you come home, it is best to not get them overly excited every time that you come home, or a new person comes to visit. They want something The most obvious reason your Goldendoodle may be whining is that they need or want something from you. They may be looking for their next serving of food, their water bowl may be empty, or they want to go for a walk. Maybe their favorite toy is stuck under the couch, or the cat is sleeping in their bed. The whining will usually stop once you figure out the problem and fix it. If your Goldendoodle is whining for more food after you just fed them, this is a problem that needs to be fixed. Start by making sure that no one else in the family is giving your pup an extra helping, and never feed your dog from the table. If you give your Goldendoodle more food in response to the whining, you are only rewarding this behavior, and the whining will usually only get worse. If you just took your Goldendoodle for a walk and they are now whining for another walk, this could mean that they have a bladder problem or a digestive problem. If your dog wants to go outside to potty as soon as they come back inside, you should take them to the vet. How to stop your Goldendoodle from whining If your Goldendoodle is whining excessively, it is best to try and figure out the reason before you try to fix the behavior. Some people do not mind a little whining every now and then, where others will barely tolerate whining and consider any amount to be excessive and annoying. The great news is that you can teach your dog to whine less or not to whine at all. These are some tips that you can try to help teach your Goldendoodle not to whine. Over time, you may notice a different pitch and volume of their whining, meaning something different. When you hear a whine that is different from these whines, you will be able to determine that this is something different such as stress or pain. Sometimes the whining can get worse and even turn into aggression. Figure out why: Look at why your Goldendoodle is whining and figure out the potential reasons for why your dog whining before you decide how to proceed. Never punish or yell at your Goldendoodle for whining as this may make them fearful or anxious or even lead to aggressive behavior. Look for stress or fears: If your Goldendoodle acts fearful, anxious, or stressed out, try to find the main source of the problem. There are many fears, and phobias can affect dogs. If you can figure out the reason, you may be able to work on training and desensitizing your Goldendoodle to overcome its fear. Take them out to potty: Give your Goldendoodle what they want under certain circumstances. If you are quite certain your Goldendoodle wants something like attention or food, try to redirect it to another behavior before just giving in. Ideally, get your Goldendoodle to sit or lie down quietly; then reward them with attention and praise or a tasty treat. Giving in immediately is the most common reason that your Goldendoodle is whining. They have learned that just a little whining and they will get their way. Yes, it is very hard to resist your whining Goldendoodle, but if you give in to your dog every time, you will end up with a very whiny adult. Make sure they have a lot of toys and get a lot of exercises. If your Goldendoodle has pent up physical or emotional energy, they are more likely to whine. Puzzle toys are great to help keep an active Goldendoodle entertained. If you are sure there is no real need, it is best to ignore them. Once you notice that they are no longer whining, offer praise, a tasty treat, or a reward. If you are not responding to their whining many times, they will stop. Prevention really is the best. If you are more relaxed to start, and now you have a Goldendoodle that whines all the time, it is not too late to start teaching them to not whine. It will take a lot of time and some consistency, but you can teach your Goldendoodle not to whine. They will have different pitches and lengths of their whining that will mean something different. By learning these whines, you will quickly learn what your Goldendoodle is trying to tell you. Puppies can become very dramatic the first few times in a crate and they will whine and cry when separated from their owners or left alone, especially for the first time. The puppy is afraid he is being abandoned by his pack and is sounding the alarm so that he can be rescued. This is most common when a puppy is confined to a small space or to a crate. This is perfectly normal dog behavior. Every puppy I have put in a crate for the first time has screamed to high heaven! So, the real question is what should you do? Porter in his crate — Multigen Labradoodle Puppy Be pro-active in training your puppy to accept isolation and privacy. Accustom your puppy to being left by herself, even if you are home a little at a time. This will prevent separation anxiety and all the problems that accompany it. Do NOT allow your puppy to become overly frantic in the crate either. .I can not express enough how helpful a high value chew like a beef Gullet stick or a bully stick can be when trying to develop a positive associations with a crate. If you do, the puppy will soon learn that he can control you with his whining. However, whining, crying and barking continues then he probably is not yet comfortable in his confinement area. Spend a little more time with him there. Practice leaving and returning several times so he becomes accustomed to your departures and realizes that you are not abandoning him forever. Practice leaving him for longer and longer periods of time. When she begins whining, wait for a short pause in the whining, then immediately take her to her toilet area. Is your puppy hungry, thirsty, too hot or cold? However, most times our puppy whines for a good reason. Puppies like to bark during play and park at people just for fun and sometimes there is no rhythm or reason to puppy barking. Excessive or Demand Whining and Barking The reason excessive whining continues is because the dog has learned that whining, crying or barking gets whatever he wants — attention, food, affection. Often what starts out as a demand whining can soon becomes a habit. If your dog is whining or howling when you are at home, either for attention or just out of habit, the first step in stopping this is to provide your dog with daily routines of play, exercise and training. Often these special times of undivided attention will stop the dog from whining the rest of the day. Secondly, pay attention to your dog only when he is quiet. Ignore him whenever he begins demanding your attention by whining. If you want a few moments of peace, you can teach the dog to be quiet on request. See your veterinarian right away to be sure no health problems exist. Speak to a member of our team to learn more So just having the crate in the room and opening and closing the door near your pup to desensitize him to the sound is a good first step. As he approaches to sniff the crate, offer treats to slowly start building a positive association. On day one, you may simply want to feed your pup in the crate and initially let him sniff the place out without even closing the door. Once he is familiar with the crate, you can start closing him for short periods of time and always reward him with treats upon entering the crate. Now comes the hard part. Most puppies will object quite loudly, but should settle in under half an hour. Make sure your puppy has had a potty break just before entering the crate as puppies do not like to soil their crates and will protest loudly if they need to potty as well. If you know your puppy has recently gone potty and is overall comfortable being near the crate, then it is okay to let him bark and whine. He is simply learning how to settle without being with his pack. Your puppy may bark for a while, settle for a minute and then begin barking again. As time goes on, his periods of quiet should lengthen a bit and he will eventually fall asleep. Consider this example: you put your pup in the crate with a chew treat and they are happily chewing for a few minutes. But then they finish their treat and without the distraction of the treat, they begin to cry. You feel bad for the little guy, and after all he was quiet for at least a few minutes, so you go to let him out. After all, you want to be your puppy's favorite person. But if you let your pup out immediately upon hearing his cries, he will make the connection that crying in his crate leads to getting out, which is not an ideal lesson for long-term positive results with crate training. Most of the time we recommend that your pup be settled for 5 or more minutes before being let out of their crate. The most ideal scenario is that your pup cries for a bit, but settles in under 30 minutes and falls asleep. This way your pup is learning that you as the owner set the boundaries about crate time, not the other way around. If your puppy has been barking with no signs of settling for over thirty minutes, it may be time to reevaluate. Some puppies with a higher degree of separation anxiety may just continue escalating rather than slowly settling. In this case, you do want to eventually respond to their cries to avoid them developing a strong negative association with the crate. If your puppy is showing no signs of slowing down, it is okay to get them out to reset and try again later. You can learn more about what age puppies are most difficult here. You may need to work backwards and gradually work your way to longer crate times. This may look like feeding treats in the crate with the door open while petting the puppy and simply timing crate sessions for the length of time you feel comfortable with we recommend starting with 30 minutes and letting the puppy out after this duration each time. This way the puppy does not become too stressed in his crate, but should also slowly recognize that you are still determining when he comes out of his crate, and that his barking is not the determining factor. There is some trial and error involved. Some puppies settle more quickly if they are near their humans and can still see and hear them. This helps them know they are not totally alone and helps them get used to separation in smaller degrees. Other puppies seem to have quite the opposite reaction and bark all the louder when they can see their people as it seems to frustrate them that they are missing out on activity in the household! If this is the case with your doodle, you can try covering his crate with a blanket to see if he settles more quickly without being visually stimulated. In general, we do find that puppies settle more easily at night if they are in the same room as their owners. Regardless of whether your pup seems to be catching on easily to crate-training or not, continue working on building positive associations whenever possible. We recommend always feeding your puppy meals in his crate as one reliable, daily positive association. Also, if you have certain high-value treats that your pup seems to especially enjoy, save those just for crate time. Longer lasting chews or puzzle toys filled with treats are a good option for giving your pup something to do in his crate. Keeping busy with food will help build a positive association and distract him from his separation woes. We came up with a handy new puppy owner checklist you can use. Ignore Your Puppy's Crate Crying for at Least a Few Hours Finally, as your puppy starts to be able to stay in his crate for longer periods of time, it is okay to respond to his cries after a nap time or being asleep for a few hours at night. So while you want your puppy to initially settle and not be let out immediately upon whining, it is important that you do respond if your puppy wakes a couple hours later. If your puppy wakes after a few hours at night, take him out for a potty break, and immediately put him back in the crate. Keep nighttime potty breaks quiet, dark and boring so that your pup learns to only alert you when he really needs to go. Crate training is not for the faint of heart, but with consistency, your puppy will learn that the crate is a safe spot for resting. Your hard work and consistency ignoring their cries will pay off when your dog is able to be at ease while separated from you. This skill is of great benefit for both of you in the long run. Once your puppy has fully adapted to his crate, you will often find him choosing to rest or nap in his crate of his own accord. When you have to leave your pup at home, he will know his crate is for resting quietly and be able to remain calm and safe while you are gone.

Whether you are looking for your dog to become an outstanding retriever for hunting waterfowl, or you are looking for a gun dog trainer to develop your dog into a great upland hunter, or both, you'll find excellence in training at Northern Plains Retrievers. We offer a variety of different training programs and we will customize your dog's program to fit the type of hunting that you do. To view the details of each program, you can click on Retriever Training. Give us a call if you would like your pup to be obedient, or you would like a fully trained dog for next hunting season! Are you looking for a Labrador Retriever puppy bred for both drive and companionship? Interested in Pointing Labrador Puppies? We offer carefully selected breedings that will produce black, chocolate, and yellow Labrador pups. Some of our dogs are from pointing Labrador bloodlines and either point themselves or throw pointing lab pups. We love to get these puppies back for training due to their strong instincts, trainability, and intelligence. Simply put, they are a pleasure to train. The disposition of these dogs will make them as fine a family dog as they will be a hunting companion. Diesel x Nova all chocolate litter due to whelp late September - now taking deposits. We currently have one black male available. In the market for a Trained Retriever? We occasionally offer labs for sale that have been through one of our gun dog training programs. Depending on their age and the level of training they have achieved, we will sell them as Started Pups or Started Dogs. No matter what level you choose, once you have hunted with a trained retriever, you'll never want to hunt with anything else! For more information, click on Trained Dogs. This is is a very strong breeding presenting 14 National Field Champions in their combined pedigrees. She is a muscular rock solid 52 pound female of pure energy. She can outrun anyone and her love of retrieving is pure and always front and center. She is definitely her mother's Jet daughter. She taught her well, she is a strong hunting partner and a loyal family companion who loves with her whole heart. She trains the young ones around Bailiwick, she is so very smart. Spend one minute with her and it is obvious, she is "Over the Top", she truly has it all. Retrieve, yes she loves retrieving, ask her and you shall receive. She is a devoted companion who loves with her whole heart, will work all day, not a problem with her. At the end of a long day she is not hard to find, she will be right at your side. This beautiful gal was born dreaming if ducks and duck ponds. Radley is Mr. Personality, he will put a smile on your face. We can retrieve all day or we can just visit and be cool, either way not a problem for Radley. He is truly a pleasure to train, so smart just tell him once and he has it down pat!!!!! This is a very strong breeding.Her love is retrieving, if you have the time she has the energy. She is dedicated, loving and very smart. Training her is a pleasure. What a loving personality, she will put a smile on your face. This is a very strong breeding. Stella presents three National Champions in her pedigree.The beauty of these hunting dogs is this…. We invite prospective buyers to come to our dog training grounds for a demo of the dog before they buy. We will set up a hunting scenario similar to how you will be hunting so you will know exactly how the dog will respond. After we demo the dog for you, we will teach you all of the basic commands and allow you to work the dog insuring a smoother transition. These dogs are very limited so call us now at to inquire about availability. For a list of definitions for training terms and phrases, please see our Retriever Training Definitions. He is capable of multiple marked retrieves, hand signals, and whistle commands, and is a great pet as well. Macho is ready for this duck season and will make an excellent addition in any blind. He is 7 yrs old and more than capable of getting all of your ducks. He is obedient, steady to shot, able to perform multiple marked retrieves, and currently working on blind retrieves. He also obeys whistle commands. He is an excellent inside pet and performs great in the blind. He is steady, obedient, does multiple marks, and blind retrieves. He is full of energy and is likely to impress! Angus is five years old and has hunted every season of his life. He has hundreds of real-life retrieves to his credit. He is completely finished and ready to hunt today. Onie has tons of drive and will be an excellent duck hunting companion. He is capable of running multiple marked retrieves as well as long blind retrieves with whistle and hand signals. He is a sweet dog with an excellent pedigree as well. If you are looking for a completely finished two year old black lab female Duck Dog that is ready to hunt now…. .She is steady to shot on multiple retrieves. Scarlett will also be a great family pet with the ability to settle down in the house while still being fast in the fields and lakes. She has good obedience and is able to perform multiple marked retrieves. She is steady to shot, and is capable of running blind retrieves with whistle and hand commands. Penny is a pocket rocket with tons of drive and a great water entry. She has a smallish build but is very athletic and muscular. Penny is a loving dog as well and could be a great pet. Penny is ready to hunt now and will make a great addition to any duck blind. He is a Certified Duck Hunter. Ace has tons of drive and lots of hunting experience. Ace weighs 60 pounds. He is able to heel, sit, stay, and come as well as pick up multiple marked retrieves in hunting situations. Ace is steady to shot and ready to hunt. He has a great pedigree and has been neutered. If you want a dog to be your partner for the upcoming season then Ace could be the dog for you. She has a small athletic build. Hera has tons of drive and absolutely loves to retrieve. She is steady to shot and able to perform multiple marked retrieves with hand delivery. Hera is also beginning to run blind retrieves. Hera is a really nice young dog. She is loving and will make a good pet as well. Hera has a great pedigree. He runs long difficult blind retrieves and can handle any marks that you throw at him. Super nice dog! If you want to be the envy of the duck club… here is your chance. Excellent pedigree with all health clearances. She is steady to shot, able to perform multiple marked retrieves with hand delivery, and will run simple blind retrieves. Maggie is super hard charging, super loving, and is a great mom. She has a great pedigree and seems to pass her desire to her offspring. Maggie will make someone a great dog. She is full of desire. Missy can perform multiple marks with a hand delivery. She is steady to shot and always ready to hunt. Missy has started doing hand signal drills. This girl is full of potential. She will not disappoint. She has a great pedigree. She is able to perform multiple marked retrieves with hand deliver, is steady to shot, and will run blind retrieves in excess of yards. She is super obedient and super sweet. She will be a great pet as well as hunting partner. Yeti has some hunting experience. Nice pedigree and health clearances. He is almost seven months old and is already doing single retrieves, running off of a dog stand, and obedient. Ricky has a great pedigree and will make a good hunting prospect. He is super young but loves to retrieve. I fully expect him to pick up lots of ducks this season. She has a big motor and hits the water hard on her marks. She is able to run long multiple marks with no problems. She is a very precise handling dog and runs blinds well in excess of yards. Great looks,great pedigree, tons of drive, and a nice temperament. Royal is steady to shot, runs triple marked retrieves in excess of yards and runs blind retrieves in excess of yards. Royal also has previous duck hunting experience. He has a great pedigree, is very obedient and is able to perform single marked retrieves. Max is maturing a little slower than some of our other dogs, but in the right hands would make a nice duck dog or family companion. He is very good looking and would be a wonderful pet as well. She is really a nice dog! She is steady to shot, picking up multiple marked retrieves over yards with hand delivery, and starting to learn hand signals. She is young but will be a great dog once she finishes her training. Ready to hunt this season. Super sweet and good looks to boot! He is hard driving with a big heart. Brady is able to perform multiple marked retrieves, is steady to shot, works off of a dog stand, and runs simple to mid level blind retrieves out to yards. He is a great looking dog and is also very loving. Brady has lots of potential and is going to make someone real happy. Brady also has a pedigree that is stacked with champions. Ready to hunt. Lots of drive, able to run blind retrieves in excess of yards and multiple marked retrieves of the same distance! The new owner could run trials, hunt tests, or have a world class duck hunting companion. This dog has a stellar dog pedigree and will be the best dog we offer for sale this year. She is a super sweet loving dog who will make an awesome companion. She has a great water entry and a strong desire to hunt. She is steady to shot and able to run multiple marked retrieves in excess of yards. Ruthie comes from a great blood line and will be ready to hunt this season. She is almost 7 months old and is a very intense retriever. She has a good demeanor and always looks stylish. Like all of our pups, she has a great pedigree. This is one puppy I would not mind keeping! She is the real deal. He is steady to shot, able to perform multiple marked retrieves to hand and is starting to run simple blind retrieves. Powe is a sweet dog who will also be a great companion. He loves to hunt and has a great nose that he uses well. Powe should get all of the ducks! He is one of the awesome pups from our Tag X Penny litter. She is very fast and loves to retrieve. She is a finished dog able to do multiple marks as well as long blind retrieves with hand signals and whistle commands. She has a great pedigree and would be a potential breeder for the right family. She should also be a great pet. She is able to run multiple marks, is steady to shot, delivers to hand, and runs blind retrieves with hand signals and whistle commands in excess of yards. She is also a very sweet dog who will be a great family pet. Torch is intact and has all of her health clearances along with a great pedigree if her new family wanted to raise a litter of puppies. As his name suggests he is Sharp! He has an amazing water entry, great looks, and stops on a dime at the whistle. Razor has met all of the requirements of our Certified Duck Hunting Champion designation. He runs multiple marks, is steady to shot, and can handle blind retrieves well in excess of yards. Razor is advanced for 15 months of age and will only get better with age. He is a loving dog with a great desire to retrieve. He is able to remember multiple marked birds as well as do hand signals in excess of yards. At only 16 months of age he is starting to fill out nicely and will be a good looking dog. Just is a dream dog! Ready to go right now! He is very well behaved in the house. Annie is a basic duck hunting dog BUT her water entry is world class. She is a sweetheart and will not only be a great hunting partner, but she will make her new owner proud to have her as a pet. She needs to go to a home where she will get to hunt, since she loves it so much. He is almost 2 years old. He is a fully finished duck dog who is able to run long multiple marks and long blind retrieves with great hand signals. Jigs is a great looking dog with a great demeanor and plenty of drive. He runs extremely long marks as well as blind retrieves. Roc is very stylish and has a fantastic water entry. He has a stacked pedigree and is carrying on a storied family tradition of stellar duck hunting dogs. She is doing easy doubles and working on hand signals. She is a sweetheart that loves to be loved on. Still training and is gonna be a great dog when finished. The price will increase as she improves. He is still in training but is currently running nice long singles and has a big water entry. He is staring doubles and working on hand signals as well. His price will go up as he improves. Pedigree second to none! He is steady to shot and able to mark multiple birds in excess of yards. Ben runs blind retrieves over yards and is very stylish and willing to please. Great looking once in a lifetime dog able to handle large hunting parties solo! She is obedient, steady, runs double and triple marks. Red is able to perform blind retrieves out to 75 yards. Red is fast with a nice water entry. Small frame female. Great pedigree. He also has limited hunting experience with great success. He is able to sit calmly in the blind while being very fast in the field. Excellent pedigree. He is out of proven field trial lines and is expected to be a great hunter. Mick is able to perform double marked retrieves and run off of a dog stand. He is steady to shot and delivers to hand. Mick has potential to be a super star retriever! He is hard charging with great looks to boot! He is able to perform multiple marks, is steady to shot, can run simple blind retrieves on hand signals, and has hunting experience with over a hundred retrieves last season. His strength is his incredible nose. He is great at finding cripples in cover. He has obedience down pat, is force fetched, collar conditioned, steady to shot and marks long doubles. Hank is completely finished and is running blind retrieves. He has an excellent pedigree and has been an inside dog. Otis has retrieved over ducks while in live hunting situations. Otis is steady and able to perform double marked retrieves. His obedience is great as well. She runs plus yard blind retrieves and is steady as a rock. Nice, calm dog with good manners and hustle. She weighs 55 pounds and is a great pet as well. Watch a Video of Rayne Here. He is a basic duck dog. Scout is very steady, runs doubles and is starting to run blind retrieves. He is extremely fast. Will make a great hunting partner. She is a basic duck dog. Maggie is very obedient, runs basic double marks and is ready to hunt ducks or doves. He has also had limited success in SRS trials as well. Ruger has picked up over 1, ducks and geese. He is a great family pet who lives indoors. She is extremely steady, is a great marker, and excels at any blind retrieves. She is ready to hunt now! Buck is less than 2 years old with tons of potential. He has some Derby experience, is an excellent marker, and is capable of running blind retrieves over yards. Plenty of drive but also capable of being calm. Should make an excellent duck dog or will be perfect for someone wanting to run hunt tests or SRS events. Rupt is ready to hunt NOW. He runs multiple marks, is steady to shot and takes hand signals to blind retrieves at over yards. He is a third place qualifier. Duck and goose hunters dream with great looks. She is steady to shot, able to pick up multiple marked retrieves and hand signals out to yards. She is a small dog with lots of drive with a big water entry. Ready to hunt NOW. Jetta is a Deutsche Dratthar. She is force fetched, collar conditioned, steady, land and water doubles, blood trailer with deer and duck hunting experience. Steady, doubles on land and water, FF, CC, hundred yard blind retrieves, running at a seasoned level. Has junior hunter title and started retriever title. OFA good. Smaller dog with nothing stellar in pedigree but a very sweet dog who could be a great hunting partner. She is a great marker, extremely steady, and able to run any blind retrieve. She has had one litter and has an incredible pedigree. Faith is force fetched, collar conditioned, obedient, steady to shot, and multiple marks land and water. EIC clear. Faith has lots of drive and will make a great hunter this season. Girlie is steady to shot, retrieves multiple marks on land and in water, is force fetched, collar conditioned, and extremely obedient. She is currently working on three handed casting drills. Girlie will make a great hunting dog, is a nice pet and could also compete in hunt test. Limited Registration only no breeding rights. Obedient, force fetched, collar conditioned, long single marked retrieves. Introduced to decoys, live birds etc. Nice dog with lots of desire and good looks! Tons of drive with a great personality. Will be in training until sold and will adjust price accordingly. Should be nice hunting or hunt test dog. She is a great pet, experienced hunter and is very stylish. Awesome pedigree but she has been spayed. Sadie is obedient, force fetched, collar conditioned and running single marks. Sadie is extremely fast and not for the faint of heart. She is a fire breathing dragon with tons of drive and an awesome water entry. Keep both hands on the wheel! Sadie is out of two QAA dogs both with excellent pedigrees. Price will increase with additional training. Ace is obedient, force fetched, steady, performing multiple marks on land and in water, running through decoys, running from blind and has some hunting experience. Ace is ready to hunt now! Once Ace transitions to blind retrieves his price will increase accordingly. Share Online. This includes: Black, Chocolate from light to dark and Yellows from light cream to fox red. This will be another exceptional cross that will produce the total package! Freya had a beautiful litter on July 28th. They will be ready to go to their new homes on September 22nd when they turn 8 weeks old. Only 1 male spot open! We have had such wonderful feedback on the first litter that we did it again. This will be a fantastic all chocolate litter that can go any direction! Ditto gave birth to a gorgeous litter of 10 on August 11th. They be ready to go home on October 6th when the puppies turn 8 weeks. Accepting deposits to hold spots! Males and Female available! Remi is in absolute perfect health and she absolutely loves being a mom. So we decided to give her one final opportunity. We are expecting 4 to 6 puppies! These puppies are going to be incredible! We are now accepting a limited number of deposits. All will depend on the timing and the availability of the special stud. We will begin accepting deposits later into , once the breeding has taken place. When Molly comes back in heat anticipated in December are planning to bring Molly all the way down to Baton Rouge Louisianna to make this extremely special breeding happen! This will be a black and yellow litter. Once the pregnancy is confirmed we will begin accepting deposits. This cross is a proven producer of the total package! The puppies can go any direction and make absolutely wonderful companions too! Tentative plan is for a spring litter. Each boy would bring something special to the table with Bailey. So we are taking our time making this decision. One thing we know is that this will be a gorgeous total package chocolate litter! We anticipate this to be a spring litter. Our studs are all proven in the field and live as part of the family. They all have strong proven pedigrees and are some of the most extensively health tested studs available anywhere. This is one of the best chocolate pedigrees we have ever seen! Master titled as a 2 year old! Mojo is the result of over 4 years of planning and research. He is the first chocolate dog in over 10 generations. Mojo has a loaded pedigree and is an excellent out cross option for females with more traditional chocolate pedigrees. He is currently in Texas training with Justin Drake. Houdini will be coming home for a couple of months this winter, before heading back south to finish his Master Hunter title. After he completes his MH title, Houdini will be available for stud services. We focus on producing the best all around Lab puppies from champion Field Bred and Hunt Test bloodlines that are healthy and free of hereditary disorders. Our dogs are selected for their natural hunting instincts, desire to please, intelligence, versatility, gentle temperaments, ability to compete in hunt tests and field trials, train-ability, pedigree, health clearances, and attractive physical features. We take pride in our dogs and with our careful research and selection processes, our puppies should satisfy the most challenging buyer. Our labs are bred to be working dogs and have the potential to excel in any direction. They are also bred to have wonderful dispositions and make great family companions. All of our dogs live in our home and are part of our family. We actively use them for upland and waterfowl hunting, and have started running them in AKC Hunt Tests. We do everything we can to try and ensure we produce healthy puppies. We go above and beyond when it comes to health testing and it shows. We have also started the process of testing for OFA Thyroid. The results of all of this health testing is readily available online on the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals website as well as on the Paw Print Genetics Pedigree Database. We only offer a limited number of litters of puppies per year. We focus on quality and not quantity and believe in having a personal touch. All of our puppies are born and raised in our home and are thoroughly socialized. Our puppies are actually born in our bedroom and stay there until they are between 3 and 4 weeks of age. This way we can ensure that they are safe, clean and comfortable at all times. Not to mention the countless hours of attention they get during the day and late into each night. Once they are 3 to 4 weeks old, we will move them into one of our two puppy nursery rooms where we can expand their box and begin the introduction to potty training. We LOVE our puppies and it shows in their care. We will only breed litters when we can guarantee that each puppy will receive daily individual love and attention. When we have multiple litters on the ground we hire in special daily helpers to ensure that our strict standards of care are always met. Our puppy program is extensive and comprehensive, yet we are continually fine-tuning and looking at ways to incorporate more. At a bare minimum this program includes: early neurological stimulation called ENS or Biosensor , early scent introduction ESI , introduction to crates, car rides, birds or bird wings, gunfire from a distance, water weather permitting , outdoor adventures in different types of environments, daily loud noises, introduction to potty training and lots of socialization with adults, kids and other dogs. We strive to give every puppy the best start possible. By the time they are ready to go to their new homes at 8 weeks of age, each puppy should be well prepared for whatever direction their new family takes them. Our very first litter was in and then we took a short hiatus from breeding until .Since resuming, we have had tremendous success with our very limited number of litters. The majority of our puppies have gone to homes where they live as part of the family and have proven themselves as exceptional hunting-working-competition dogs.

Top Picks For Our Dogs Preparing Your Home For A Puppy You should treat the preparation of your home for the arrival of a new puppy in much the same way as you would for the arrival of a baby because the process is almost identical. You must be ready to provide every little thing your puppy needs in life, making sure they have water, are fed, comfortable, happy, catered for and safe. To achieve this there are 4 main things that you need to do: Go shopping for equipment and supplies Puppy proof your home and garden to make sure your puppy stays safe Set up an area for your puppy to sleep and spend time in when you cannot supervise them Decide on the rules and routines required to successfully raise a puppy Without such preparation, things will be difficult. A Nutritious Puppy Food The most important supply needed for a new puppy is a highly nutritious puppy food. Hopefully your puppy came from a responsible breeder who was feeding them a high quality, complete and nutritious food. If so, you should ask what they were feeding, stock up on and continue feeding this if possible. If not, then puppies are incredibly active, growing fast and developing bone, muscle and more every day. Because of this they need almost double the calories, more protein and have different nutritional needs to mature adult dogs. Furthermore, they have far smaller mouths than adult dogs so puppy food comes in smaller chunks more suited to their size. Click here to see our recommendations for the best puppy food for labs Bowls for Food And Water There is a bewildering array of dog bowl choices out there so choosing the best can be difficult. Looks and design aside, I recommend going for stainless steel bowls because they are long-lasting, cannot be chewed and are very easy to clean. I also recommend buying bowls with heavy rubber bottoms so they stay rooted to the spot and are harder to spill or flip over. Unless of course you buy bowls in a stand, then these problems are already solved. A Puppy Crate And Bedding A good crate is one of the most beneficial things you can provide for the good of yourself and your puppy. First of all, supply some bedding to place inside for your puppy to sleep on. My recommendation for this is VetBed. Many puppies can chew and ingest normal bedding which can result in medical emergencies and VetBed is the most durable bedding on the market. During these times you need to provide a larger, but still safe enclosure to confine your puppy. You might also like to buy a plastic sheet and some puppy pads or use lots of old newspaper for them to use as a potty in your absence. Puppy Chew Toys Puppies chew. A lot. And they seem to prefer chewing phones, footwear and TV remotes more than anything else. Just make sure whatever toys you do buy are suitable for a puppy as many will be too large for their little mouths to begin with. Interactive Puppy Toys So you can play games with your puppy, provide exercise and mental stimulation, you will want to buy a few toys that encourage the two of you to interact. Balls for throwing and chasing, soft toys and ropes for playing tug, other toys for fetch, there are many available. You will also need a collar to provide a place to attach an all important ID tag. ID Tag An ID tag is an essential means to be reunited with your puppy should the worst happen and you somehow lose them or they run away. Clicker A clicker is an extremely useful tool used during training as a reward marker that dramatically improves the timing of communication between you and your puppy when you want to reward a behavior. Although not essential, I do highly recommend you use one. Puppy Training Treats Tasty food treats are the go-to reward used during training so you will want to make sure you always have a good stock at hand. They need to feel happy with being bathed, happy having their coat and teeth brushed, their feet touched, nails clipped and having their eyes and ears inspected. To do so, you should fake going the process, getting them used to being handled, the sight and feel of the tools and so on. To achieve this, you will need to buy and get them used to the following items: Dog shampoo Combs and brushes suitable for a Labrador Scissors Cotton balls Toothbrush Use these tools right away and often, and give your puppy praise and tasty treats as you go so they form positive associations with grooming. Puppy Proof Your Home and Garden The process of puppy proofing your home is very much like baby proofing before the arrival of a child. Except a puppy is far more curious, active and destructive and can get themselves into far more trouble. A puppy is a new-born. Everything is a toy and they will run and pounce and jump and chew on anything in their environment. So before you bring your puppy home you simply must make it safe for them. For things you cannot move skirting boards, table legs etc. To keep them safe while still providing an area for them to play in and stretch their legs, you want to restrict their access to a single room, or otherwise create an enclosed space for them. To do so, either buy a pet barrier or baby gate that goes across a doorway to restrict them to an easy to clean and safe room, or buy an exercise pen puppy pen to create an enclosed space in another room. I also strongly recommend buying a crate for many reasons, but initially, mostly just to provide the perfect place for them to sleep. I shall discuss crate training a little later in this article. All of this must be decided BEFORE you get your puppy home because consistency is a key part of raising a puppy successfully. Everyone must enforce and live by the same rules for your puppy to thrive. Initially they have no idea how you want them to behave, or how and when they can expect the things they want and need in life. The more consistent everybody is with the puppy, the quicker they will learn all this stuff and the happier everyone will be. So decide and write down if necessary when your puppy will have all their needs met, make sure everybody knows who is responsible for each task and make sure everybody knows the rules. You might think the collection and journey home with your new puppy is no big deal, but there are many things can go wrong. Therefore, you should never take a puppy before 8 weeks old. During the first 8 weeks, a puppy learns a lot from their mother and litter-mates: Bite inhibition, canine body language, acceptable play and interaction with other dogs and how to accept discipline. Things you will find it very hard to teach them later yourself. The flip side of this is that the 7 to 14 week stage is the most impressionable for a puppy, where they bond strongest with people and must be socialized to all the sights, sounds and smells of the world so they grow up confident and comfortable with their surroundings. So anyway, for the journey home there a few things you need to consider: Safety in the car, the need for water and toilet breaks and the possibility your puppy will be sick. Having a loose puppy in the car presents a very real danger of leading to a crash, they can easily climb out of a box and now is not the time to use a harness and car safety belt. If the crate is small enough you can place it on a front or rear passenger seat and secure it with the seat-belt, or you may have to place it in the trunk of your car. Fully line the crate with absorbent paper in case there are any accidents, this will keep most of the mess off your puppy and make cleaning easier. And finally, place a chew toy or two in the crate to keep your puppy occupied. If you have another person to help you, your puppy can ride home in their lap if the journey is short. They must be under your passengers control. They will also need to potty every half or so. Therefore, you should plan breaks along the way every 30 minutes or so. Stop the car, allow them to drink, then wait for them to wee before setting off again. When you stop, make sure your puppy is on leash and tightly held by someone before letting them out of the car. And as an extra precaution, carry your puppy and only put them down to do their business, then carry them back into the car. Take with you some towels, plastic bags, kitchen roll and deodorizer to take care of any accidents. And when driving, take all corners slowly, and accelerate and brake gently. If your puppy is on a passengers lap, they will be able to see some warning signs that puppy is about to be sick: Their lips will curl, they will excessively salivate and then eventually start to heave. When your passenger spots these signs, they can place a thick towel beneath the puppy to catch everything and avoid a mess in your vehicle. When bringing home a new puppy, make sure you collect them and then drive straight home. Your puppy is having the most stressful day of their short life so far, try not to make it harder than it already is by taking them to strange places and passing them around to strangers to say hello. You want to get them home quickly so they can start the process of settling in as soon as possible. Whether this is inside on paper, or a spot outside, as soon as you arrive home carry them there, set them down and wait for them to do their business before doing anything else. This might take 30 seconds or it might take 10 minutes, but patiently wait and when they go, praise them profusely. Well done! Shut them in another room away from the puppy as things are intense enough as it is. Explain they have to be calm and gentle during the first introductions. Let them sniff and look around, getting used to the area and their new little world. You can now let people come and say hello. Have people sit or kneel to greet them. Once everybody has said hello, you should stay with your puppy, show interest but stay calm. Allow Your Puppy To Sleep After all the excitement, stress, massive change and huge amount of mental stimulation your puppy has just been through, they will likely need to sleep soon after arriving at your home. So as soon as they either start to look tired, or the introductions to their new living space and family have ended whichever comes first put them to bed for a short while. On the other hand they might feel completely overwhelmed, retreat into themselves and show reluctance to explore. They might slink into a corner silently and sit there watching their new world with wonder but apprehension, before falling asleep for hours. And when it comes to the first night they might sleep right through, or they might cry and whine the whole night. As your puppy begins to get used to everything, their character will start to shine through and you will begin to see their true personalities. Exactly what this will be is different for every puppy…it will be fun for you to find out! And by being the provider of everything they need in life, giving them all that is good, it will only take 2 or 3 days for your puppy to learn to love you and get excited and happy to see you when you turn up. So your task is to set up and stick to these schedules, begin training your puppy and help them to learn how you want them to behave and when they can expect the things they need in life. What should you feed your puppy You should feed your puppy the same food they had at the breeders because an abrupt change in diet almost always leads to stomach upset. Complete and balanced means it has everything a puppy needs, and in the right quantities. So seek out this kind of wording and check the internet for other owners reviews. Puppies need to eat a lot because their rate of growth is very high. For puppies up to 12 weeks, you should divide their daily requirement into 4 portions, for puppies 12 to 26 weeks, feed them 3 times per day and from 26 weeks on feed them twice per day. You should also aim to feed them as close as you can to the same times every day and evenly spaced throughout the day. This will help their body clocks fall into a pattern and will help your house training immensely because they then potty the same times every day. For example: 8 to 12 weeks old, 4 times a day at AM, AM, PM and PM 12 to 26 weeks old, 3 times a day at AM, PM and PM 26 weeks old and ongoing, 2 times a day at and Obviously you can adjust these times to take into account when you get out of bed and to fit around your life. Also… The first few nights have the crate or exercise pen your puppy sleeps in placed in your bedroom. One night move the crate next to the bedroom door. The next night move it outside the door, but leave the door open so they can still see you. The next night further into the hallway. Finally to their eventual resting place. They might take to sleeping on their own OK, they might whine and cry. NEVER go to them to comfort them if they cry, you must only get up to take them to potty and then silently and without fuss put them back into the crate. Rewarding silence and ignoring noise is the only way they will eventually learn to be quiet at night themselves. Any time you cannot closely supervise them, you have to confine them, either in their crate, an exercise pen or a puppy proofed room secured with a barrier across the doorway. The point of confining them as a puppy is so they can enjoy all the freedom in the world once they are an adult. By confining them with treat dispensing chew toys they get rewarded for chewing the right things and develop a chew toy obsession. Confine them now, they form a good chew toy obsession and have no chance of developing bad chewing habits. Then once they are over their adolescent chewing stage you slowly open up the house to them and eventually they can have free roam and be completely trusted. A little sacrifice when young for a better life later. And a second hugely important reason for confining your puppy when you cannot supervise them is for speedier house training. In fact if you read my comments from earlier, you will see you start the very first moment you finish the journey home. In essence, house training is about creating good habits while avoiding bad ones and for the speediest success you want to start immediately. Wherever your puppy is able to potty has the chance of becoming their favored toilet spot for many weeks or months to come. So you want to prevent them pottying inside, and encourage them to potty outside. The main ingredients of a successful house training program are preventing mistakes and praising heavily for doing the right thing. Achieving this is all about schedules, supervision and confinement. Now, your puppy will need to potty anywhere from every 15 to 45 minutes. So to start with, take them outside every 30 minutes and adjust this schedule to suit their natural rhythm. You must also take them outside immediately after they wake up from any sleep, after any eating or drinking, after play and after any heightened excitement. These are times that often lead to a puppy needing to potty so take them outside at these times and you will avoid many mistakes while taking advantage of predictable opportunities to praise them for doing the right thing. In the first week or so, you will likely find your puppy almost instantaneously leaks with little warning. Simply do your best to take them out to potty extremely often so they go in the right place as often as possible. And confine them to a single enclosed room or in an exercise pen for the first week or so to protect your carpets. Crate training goes hand in hand with house training, being one of the best tools to help speed up the process. Therefore, you want to start crate training very early on, after just a few days of getting puppy home, and I personally aim for 9 weeks old to start. I prefer to wait a week or so to avoid them pottying in the crate as much as possible, doing the most I can to preserve their instinct not to soil where they sleep, the instinct that helps most when using a crate for house training. But by all means sleep them in their crate at night if you wish and I do. For more information on crate training your puppy and using it for house training purposes, please see the links below:. During this time, they have learned that good breeding is not seldom. This is why they conduct DNA genetic testing on the mating Labs, research pedigrees, and perform x-rays. At other times, they fly in semen from other states to guarantee the best quality future Labs. They have produced family dogs, show dogs, hunting dogs, and service dogs. If you want to reserve a puppy from Humehill, they will send you a questionnaire and a deposit contract. The puppies leave the facility after they are eight weeks old. Prior to this, the puppies are taken to the vet for a checkup, dewormed, microchipped, and receive their first vaccine. They consider themselves knowledgeable breeders because they have degrees in Animal Science and Agricultural Engineering. They focus on producing and raising genetically quality dogs, a reason why the parents undergo Embark tests. In addition, they raise the puppies in an acre home with fenced-in yards instead of kennels. The dogs also have a large pond to swim or play in. All Hidden Pond puppies have veterinarian health certification, a one-year written health guarantee, have their first shots, and are microchipped. They also give a lifetime placement warranty and offer stud service. They aim to breed championship Labs that can go to the show program. The pups that do not qualify for show programs are trained for companionship, hunting, therapy, or response dogs. The breeder is dedicated to guaranteeing that future Labs have the best genetics to live a long, happy life. They also receive year-long preventative health care. Stoneleigh Labrador puppies are hand-raised with abundant affection then socialized before they leave the facility. Even though the breeder does not always have available puppies all year round, they will be happy to have you on a waiting list. Legacy puppies receive the same socialization programs as service and guide dogs. They are paper trained, crate trained, taken for car rides, and receive daily playtime. They are also microchipped and AKC registered. Unlike other Labrador breeders, Legacy accepts applications only when there is a litter available. This means you must be on the lookout since they do not keep a waiting list for potential buyers. Occasionally, they have older dogs available after they have finished their show careers. These dogs are suitable for children of all ages because they are socialized at a young age. All pups receive their first shots and worming before they leave. To purchase one, contact the breeder via email or the website. She has a passion for Labradors and loves their sweet temperament. This is proof that not only are the Labs well-bred, but they are healthy and with easy to live temperaments. To find and purchase a pup , visit the website, or contact the breeder via email. Ollie, originally from the USA, holds his master's degree in wildlife biology and moved to Australia to pursue his career and passion but has found a new love for working online and writing about animals of all types.

Since your bulldog will likely eat anything he can get his grubby little paws on, you're responsible for portioning his food and monitoring his weight. Fit bulldogs have better overall health, so feed carefully for a longer, happier life. Feeding Puppies Puppies are big eaters by nature, and bulldogs are no exception. Until he's about 4 months old, your puppy should eat almost twice as much as an adult. Always defer to the portioning instructions on your food package, since the nutrition content changes from brand to brand. That in mind, though, a puppy under 4 months old should eat three to four cups of food per day, divided into four feedings. Between 4 and 6 months, cut back to three feedings for a total of two and a quarter to three cups of food per day. Amount and Frequency After six months, your dog should be on his adult feeding regimen: one and a half to two cups of food per day, divided into two meals. Bulldogs have a tendency to gorge themselves when free-fed, and eating too much too fast can make them sick. Unlike other dogs that can self-regulate their meals, then, bulldogs must be fed on a routine schedule to keep their digestion healthy and regular. Avoiding Obesity Monitoring your bulldog's weight begins when he is a puppy, because this short, stout breed is prone to joint and bone problems when overweight. Since bulldogs are naturally so pudgy and wrinkly, you may have difficulty eyeballing his weight. Instead, get hands-on—literally—to see if your dog has too much junk in the trunk. When your dog is standing, wrap your hands around his midsection with your thumbs on the spine and your fingers stretching out along his sides. If you can feel his ribs without squeezing too much, he's in good shape. If not, gradually restrict his diet and make your morning walks a little longer. Treats and Behavior Feeding your dog doesn't stop with what goes in his bowl. You have to monitor his treat intake, too, or else his health and behavior can both suffer. Never give your dog a treat without his earning it, or he won't be motivated when you try to train him. Instead, reward him with attention like playing together or going on a walk, both of which help him maintain a healthy weight. When you do give him treats in a training context, remember not to overfeed—always defer to the portioning instructions on the package. More Articles. Nutritional needs of American Bulldogs American Bulldogs are known for their muscular build and active lifestyle, which means they require a diet high in protein and other essential nutrients. Speak with your vet to find out the exact amount of macro and micronutrients your Bully needs, but in general, American Bulldogs require: Protein Protein is a crucial nutrient for American Bulldogs as it helps build and repair muscles and supports their immune system. AAFCO recommends growing dogs eat a diet with at least .Protein-rich food sources for American Bulldogs include chicken, beef and fish. American Bulldogs require a moderate amount of fat in their diet, at least 8. Excellent sources of healthy fats for American Bulldogs include fish oil, flaxseed oil, and chicken fat. Carbohydrate Carbohydrates provide energy for American Bulldogs and also help in the absorption of other nutrients. Include complex carbohydrates like sweet potatoes, brown rice and whole grains in their diet rather than simple carbohydrates like corn and wheat. Vitamins and minerals American Bulldogs require essential vitamins and minerals to maintain their overall health. Vitamins A, C and E support their immune system, while minerals such as calcium and phosphorus are necessary for bone health. We formulate our delicious, healthy, wet dog food and crunchy dry dog food with the best human-grade, ethically-sourced ingredients. This food contains nutrient-rich meat, organ and bone and is free of grains, legumes and any byproducts, making it an irresistible and wholesome choice for your pet. Coconut oil adds health benefits like easy digestion and energy. We also use non-GMO chickpeas, which provide protein, iron, copper, zinc and magnesium. Tips for feeding American Bulldogs If you are wondering how much should I feed my dog to avoid issues like obesity, you should feed an adult American Bulldog twice a day. Puppies may require three to four meals per day. The amount of food your dog needs depends on their age, size and activity level. Measure their food to avoid overfeeding and obesity and establish a consistent feeding schedule. This can help your American Bulldog maintain a healthy weight and prevent digestive issues. At Open Farm, we offer percent ethically-sourced, nutrient-rich dog food options , including freeze-dried, wet and dry kibble. Shop our dog food, treats and bone broth today to give your American Bulldog the best diet to keep them healthy and happy. Share this post. At eighteen months of age, they are already considered fully grown in terms of height, but it is possible they will put on more muscle until they are two years old. Large dogs that have different-sized parents can range from medium-large to large and require a lot of protein in their diet. So, an American Bulldog puppy will need more caloric food than an English Bulldog. This is especially important during the period between six and twelve months when at least eighty percent of their adult body weight is already there. Weighing your American Bulldog is crucial in fine-tuning the amount of food per meal. High-quality kibble is a great choice for puppies because it provides the right amount of protein, fat, carbohydrates, vitamins, and minerals without much calculation on your side. Wet foods can be useful too, but only if the ingredients are well balanced. Meal frequency decreases with an increase in amount. Every individual dog requires adjustments, and the chart is supposed to give you an estimate of how much and how often. If your dog is very active, then you might want to add some treats during the day. Always promote frequent physical activity over lowering the amount of food. Dog bodies are astonishingly efficient at spending those extra calories, especially with the amount of muscle American Bulldogs have. Up until eighteen months of age, you should feed your puppy the full twenty-two percent of protein from dry matter and around ten to twelve percent fat per meal. Make sure the food you are feeding to your puppy has adequate amounts of vitamins A, B-complex, D, E, K, and choline. Minerals such as phosphorus and calcium play a key role in nutrient synthesis and normal hormonal function , so read the list of ingredients and nutrients on the food label. Calcium, vitamins B-complex and choline are all vital in normal bone formation and strength. Large dogs with a lot of muscle require dense bones to be able to support the pressure of the entire body. An American Bulldog puppy grows so rapidly that the bone density can often fall behind weight gain. Regularly weigh your dog to see if its weight matches that from the chart, and feed accordingly. Once your American Bulldog reaches eighteen months, you can slowly start switching to a raw diet if you set your mind to it. Do not feed puppies fewer than two meals a day. It is always better to feed them three or four smaller meals to avoid bloat or Gastric dilatation and volvulus GDV. Although it is rarer in young dogs, it is still a risk you would want to avoid. Also, make sure the food is small enough for the dog to be able to chew it properly without just swallowing. Many high-quality dog food brands have puppy food, which contains all the ingredients for a balanced diet and is appropriate in terms of size. Consult the veterinarian before adding dairy or third-party liquids to the meal. Creating new diet plans and regimes seems to be a trend that is ramping up. Some are well-received by the animal medical community, while others receive negative feedback. Kibble and wet food are convenient, and busy people find them an excellent choice. Those with more time to spend with their dog prefer a home-cooked fresh or raw diet. Every diet has pros and cons, so allow me to help you decide which one is the right fit for you and your dog. Kibble And Wet Food Diets I am sure you have read about additives whenever kibble or wet food is mentioned. Indeed, eliminating fillers from large-scale kibble and wet food production would be a very bad business decision. Storing this type of food is great too. It has a lengthy shelf-life and can be stored virtually anywhere. The packaging always has detailed information about what ingredients are in the food. Portioning is simple with kibble and wet food — you can measure the correct amount by calculating cups of food. The standard unit of measure is an eight-ounce cup. All is good if the protein content is first in line, followed by fat, carbohydrates, vitamins, and minerals. The long shelf-life is achieved by adding preservatives. The two types include natural and artificial preservatives. Overall health and lifespan will be improved if you opt for wet food because canning mostly includes natural preservatives. Dry food will probably be your best choice for an American Bulldog puppy, and wet food once it reaches sixteen or eighteen months of age. Wet foods can cause diarrhea in puppies, so best to avoid them at the beginning. Canned food does not have enough water content for your growing puppy or adult dog. Animal meat, organs, vegetables, and bones are all ingredients of a comprehensive meal. Many dog owners claim their dog had a longer life and better overall health on a fresh diet. Unfortunately, there is no scientific proof confirming a drastically better quality of life in dogs that are on a fresh diet. A large number of breeders and performance dog owners are adamant that their dogs have a higher level of activity and better coats when on a fresh or raw diet. The higher level of activity is plausible since the food will be digested more quickly the nutrients in this form are easier to absorb , and poops will be smaller due to the greater concentration of easily absorbable ingredients. By now, you must have realized that it is actually a slightly healthier diet than kibble or canned food, but there are some downsides. You first have to find certified and high-quality raw ingredients. Then, you have to cook and portion them fittingly. This is time-consuming and takes a while before you establish a routine that will create an efficient process. Consider your budget as well because a fresh diet does not come cheap. Their developing digestive system is not able to process the nutrients properly. Once your American Bulldog reaches one and a half years of age, you can start introducing raw food. Raw food diets are similar to fresh food diets, with one big difference — the ingredients stay raw. Veterinarians and animal medical associations agree that a fresh diet is superior in terms of nutritional value and health reasons. Prepackaged raw food meals are available for you to buy, but it is important to look for certificates that guarantee the meat passed all health checks with flying colors. This simplifies portioning and saves you some time, but every dog should have a diet tailored to its individual needs. Unlike French Bulldogs, the American counterpart is much more athletic and with fewer health problems. Purely on their role as working dogs and muscularity, owners often deem raw diets mandatory. Be Cautious Of Bacteria Whether we are talking about a Husky, American Bulldog, Pitbull, or any other breed, the type of diet does not matter as long as it contains all the required ingredients for a healthy life. Still, raw food has a major downside — bacterial, viral, or parasite infections. The meat can be certified and successfully pass health checks but still contain traces of pathogens such as salmonella or listeria. Just handling the raw food can spread germs all over the house, putting your family at risk of infection too. Certain grains like oat are tough to digest in a raw form, and the dog will benefit from them being cooked. The same goes for vegetables and fruit, though fruit is not a dietary requirement for dogs. Fruit such as plantains, fig newtons , prunes , durian , and guava are all safe for your dog if you want to add some new flavor to the diet. Keep in mind that your dog could be allergic to certain foods, so consult a vet before including them. Putting the word science in a product name does not make it better. There have been several recalls of this product line due to toxic quantities of vitamin D in the food. I would not consider products that have been recalled as the main diet for my dog. From a purely logical point of view, buying any product that has been recalled would be a hard pass for me. High-quality food does not have to come from a corporate giant. This means that your American Bulldog has a higher chance of having problems with its airways and allergens that can be inhaled. Unfortunately, this is not the only health problem that likes a good boy or girl. Obesity caused by overfeeding, hip dysplasia, and cherry eye are some of the most common health issues that plague Bulldogs. Let us quickly go through them and be done with the bad stuff. Obesity American Bulldogs grow fast. You will break out the best snacks the snack drawer has to offer and perhaps share some of them with your dog. Even if you feed your dog only the best foods on any kind of diet, there is a possibility of overfeeding it. One of the most common causes of overfeeding is treats. Most owners do not count them in the daily calories total and unwillingly teach their dogs some bad eating habits. Oftentimes, owners will want their dogs to grow faster or bigger than they naturally can, so they feed them so much meat that the dog becomes obese in just a few months. A diet should be balanced for the best result. Low-quality foods with lots of fillers that include starch and complex carbohydrates can cause sudden weight gain. You will know your dog is overweight if its size increases, but the musculation is less visible. Hip Dysplasia Everybody and their dog knows about this condition. It occurs when the ball of the femur does not sit properly in the socket joint of the hip, and the cartilage that lines the bone starts degrading until it is completely gone. Once that happens, the bone tissue becomes damaged with every move, and the dog starts experiencing pain and difficulty moving. If caught early, it can be treated with NSAIDs, but more severe cases require complex surgery or hip replacement. Cherry Eye This is a congenital condition that affects Bulldog breeds more than others. It is characterized by a protruded third eyelid that gets inflamed due to irregular eye anatomy. Dogs affected by cherry eye or protruding eyelid often have something that resembles a red cherry mass on the inside corner of the eye. Routine surgery is the most common treatment, with a rather easy and short recovery. Long exposure to foods your American Bulldog is allergic to can cause cherry eye. If you are a first-time dog owner, this American Bulldog feeding chart will be immensely helpful in getting you started. There is no one size fits all approach to dog feeding, so some effort in ironing out the details will be required. All these elements combined have an impact on the lifespan and overall health of your American Bulldog. Do not forget to provide ample exercise for your canine friend, and consult a vet if you notice a change in behavior when switching between diets. One can never be too careful. Read Next:. September 30, Did you know that American Bulldog is a breed that loves to eat much? That's why you should carefully keep an eye at their ration and forbid him to eat anything he can get his paws on. A dog owner is responsible for his dog, and you should become responsible for his ration to grow a healthy and happy dog, you should watch for portioning and monitor his weight, which, in the end will grant your Bully happier and longer life. While your American Bulldog is a puppy, you should feed him twice as much as an adult until he's 4 months old. Keep in mind that puppies under 4 months should eat four times a day, in general three cups of food, puppies between 4 and 6 months - three times a day and a total of two cups of food. After your Bulldog reaches the six months' age, he should chande to an adult feeding plan, which is two times a day feeding with a total of two meals a day. While choosing between commercial and homemade food, you should remember that nowadays it is only a question of time - commercial food contains all necessary minerals and vitamis as well as the homemade one. Feed your dog correctly and he will become a happy mature American Bully! It is a perfect item for any activity where strength and reliability of the collar mean much. Thus, it will do a great service in training your American Bulldog, walking on small and large distances or without a lead, as well as exercising and sporting. It is time to take care of your pet and change old into new one. This Luxurious Shining Leather Dog Harness is a perfect tool for training, daily walks, daily exercising and just for making your dog more gorgeous. Nutritional requirements of a American Bulldog What exactly should the diet of a American Bulldog consist of for optimal health? Protein from quality meat sources 2. Essential Fatty acids and omegas 3. Natural vitamins and minerals from bone and plant sources 5. Hydration — high moisture foods and drinking water 1. Protein When selecting what to feed your American Bulldog, choose a diet with high-quality animal-based protein sources, such as beef, chicken, turkey, lamb, duck, eggs, and fish. As such, protein impacts canine health in many ways, including: Providing consistent energy Forms new skin, hair, nails, and other tissue. Keeps the immune system healthy. Makes hormones, enzymes, and antibodies. Properly balanced fats are essential for optimal health, and also provide energy. Dietary fat we generally refer to as a triglyceride. There are two types of triglyceride, saturated and unsaturated fat. In balance, they promote a healthy coat, skin, eyes, nervous system, control hormones, fuel brain and learning, and reduce inflammation. Carbohydrates, such as vegetables and some fruits, provide fibre, prebiotics food for beneficial bacteria , and antioxidants that are lacking in meat alone. Dogs are carnivores, but they can benefit from some vegetation in their diets for optimal health. Natural vitamins and minerals A raw food diet aims to replicate what dogs evolved to eat in the wild. As such, meat, bone, offal and a small amount of plant ingredients are all important ingredients in the diet of a American Bulldog, each adding highly beneficial vitamins and minerals to meal times. Incorporating ground bone in meals or providing recreational bones for enrichment add nutrients that will support digestion, skin and bone health, and mobility. As such, water is a vital nutrient for all cells, systems and functions, including: The regulation of body temperature Maintaining healthy organ function. The digestion and absorption of nutrients. Detoxification; water helps to flush out toxins and waste products from the body. Preventing dehydration which can lead to serious health problems, including kidney damage and heat stroke. Lubrication and cushioning of joints, thereby supporting ease of movement. Discover more about a raw food diet for dogs in our complete. American Bulldog raw feeding guide Whilst you could create homemade raw food meals for your American Bulldog, dog owners new to raw feeding can often find making their own raw dog food meals complicated. Formulating meals with the appropriate ratios of key ingredients is essential to ensure your dog receives optimal nutrients, so going it alone can seem daunting. The good news is there is a much simpler approach. By choosing a reputable supplier of pre-prepared raw dog food supplier, you can stock your freezer with quality raw food meals at the click of a button. American Bulldog Feeding Chart. Every recipe comes personalized and proportioned for your dog and addresses any medical needs that they might have. Even better, the formulas all come from a board-certified veterinary nutritionist, and only the best-quality ingredients are used for each portion. The recipes are tailored specifically for your pup, which is ideal if your dog has a sensitive stomach or food allergies. Pros Formulated recipes by board-certified veterinary nutritionists Personalized and pre-portioned meals for your pup Made in the U. Only the best quality ingredients Different recipes More expensive than store bought brands 2. This moderately-priced dog food comes in pound bags. The small kibble is specifically designed for Bulldog puppies, aged two to 12 months, based on their jaws and biting patterns. We found that this food could be too rich and may not work as well for sensitive stomachs. These LifeSource Bits include a combination of vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. They offer omega fatty acids for improved skin and coat health. They can aid in good eye health because of the inclusion of taurine. They also contain vitamin B12, D, and L-Carnitine to further support good health. Its main ingredients are deboned chicken and chicken meal, which are a good source of protein. Other significant ingredients include rice, barley, and oatmeal. This is a grain-inclusive food, which means that it might not be suitable for dogs with food sensitivities and allergies. Although the Blue Buffalo Life Protection Formula Adult Dry Dog Food is a little more expensive than some of those on the list, many of its ingredients are high quality and provide a balanced and nutritional diet. However, a handful of ingredients are considered low-cost, low-quality fillers. Pea protein and alfalfa meal, for example, do not provide much nutritional benefit. The ingredients also include garlic. This low-cost dog food comes in .It naturally contains Omega-3 fatty acids and antioxidants and is made without poultry by-products, preservatives, and artificial flavors. When we tested this dog food, we found that it had plenty of protein and provided quite a bit of energy for active Bulldogs. It also works well for dogs with sensitive stomachs. We did find that it sometimes arrived stale, and some bags may contain bugs. Purina offers a great money-back guarantee. Country: Congratulations on your puppy! Vaccinations It is critical that the puppy is dewormed days prior to each vaccination. If the puppy has worms, the immunity is weakened and the vaccines may not be effective because the puppy's organism may be unable to develop enough anti-bodies against the vaccine to actually make the puppy immune against the diseases being vaccinated against. In rare cases, a puppy with worms can lead to death. If worms are found in puppy's stool after deworming, then it is recommended to deworm again prior to vaccinations. Vaccinations should be administered to a healthy puppy! Critical to do deworming on the puppy days prior to vaccinations. If this is done by the breeder, be sure you get a health record from the breeder with physical labels taken from the vaccine bottles and the deworming medication. At 3 months, Rabies vaccine and another booster of the same set of vaccinations should be administered parvo, adenovirus, lepto, coronavirus, distemper, parainfluenza. In the U. We disagree with this because at this age the puppy is going through the change of baby teeth to adult teeth and that may adversely affect the puppy's immunity. Then follow the regular vet-recommended vaccine schedule. For example, some vaccinations are annual, some last for a number of years. Food For proper development of the puppy, it is important that proper bowls are used. Do not place bowls on the ground. Purchase adjustable-height bowls for both water and food so that the puppy is always eating in the correct posture. Here's one we use, available on Amazon. After 16 years of breeding, my conclusion is to use dry food of the highest grade. Cheap dog food does not contain the necessary balanced ingredients for proper growth of the puppy. There are debates of using raw vs. If a person is not an expert in the field of raising and feeding dogs, there is no way they will be able to provide a balanced diet using exclusively raw food. If an owner desires, they can add some raw beef or turkey no bones to the regular dry food diet. Some dog food that we've used with our dogs that we can recommend. Some Bulldogs are known to jump six feet or higher into the air. American Bulldogs are intelligent and affectionate, delivering them great, protective family dogs; although, they have high exercise needs and want an experienced, active pet parent. American Bulldogs can make loving family companions. Bulldog does require particular care needs to keep him healthy and ensure longevity in his life. Diet A proper diet is more important to care for your bulldog puppy. Unfortunately, many cheap versions of dog foods are available today, and many do not put meat first as the first or main ingredient. American bulldog puppy needs a well-rounded diet of proteins, fats, carbs and vitamins, and minerals. Nutrition: While your American Bulldog is a puppy, you should feed him twice as much as an adult. American Bulldog puppies under 4 months should eat four times a day, as usual, three cups of food, puppies between 4 and 6 months three times a day, and a total of two cups of food. What should you give pup? Start with a portion of high-grade dog food, with meat as the first ingredient. Unprocessed protein should be no fewer than 30 percent and crude fat no less than 20 percent. As well, the fiber content needs to be 4 percent or less. Grooming Bulldogs enjoy being groomed except for nail trimming, and their greatest love is taking a bath. The Bulldog has a smooth, short coat and is naturally a reasonably clean dog. Keep a Bulldogs coat shiny and beautiful, and it must be groomed about 4 times a week. How to clean American bulldog Pup Ears and Teeth? They do, however, need to be brushed regularly to help keep the shedding fur from building up and the natural oils in their skin from causing skin issues. In addition, your bulldog pup should get proper dental care. Maintain normal vet visits, check their ears weekly, and keep up with monthly nail clipping and normal dental care. This kind yet courageous dog can be bathed regularly every week up to no longer than every six weeks depending on its lifestyle. How to trim American bulldog Pup coat and toenails? Nails that are left to develop too long can cause damages to you and your dog. Take one paw of your bulldog pup into your hand. Gently squeeze the paw until you see the nails. Then, clip the nail in short sections using the nail clippers. Cut the nails to just under the arch of each nail. Check the nail closely. File down each trimmed nail with a nail file. This assists in preventing snagging of the nails by filing away the points. Filing the nails also makes the nails shorter length without hitting the quick. They need exercise outside of the home regularly. In addition, they require the exercise of any sort regularly to retain their heart and bones healthy. The American Bulldog is a powerful and high-energy dog that needs between 1 to 2 hours of exercise a day. This should include an everyday walk at a medium pace or off-leash for at least 30 to 45 minutes. In addition, they require purposeful high-intensity activities and play to tone their muscles and tire them further. Dog vaccinations include the injection of antigens alternatively of the actual viruses. This is because they are injecting a part of the virus into an individual trigger an immune response. This immune response is more useful in preserving the individual against the virus injected into the body. Give them lots of love and attraction Bulldog puppies are considerable family dogs that are more than willing to love all family members and love attention back. They can be quite the cut-up and keep their owners on their toes with their funny dispositions. Bulldogs tend to love children particularly, so by socializing and giving them lots of love and attraction to your puppy to kids of all ages starting from puppyhood. You will be nourishing that natural, sweet nature in them that they have for children. American Bulldog Puppy Training The American Bulldog was the first bred as a strong and athletic all-purpose effective dog to catch hogs and cattle. These dogs are adorable, and as adults, they are great, stocky, and intelligent. Puppyhood is the most suitable time to train your American bulldog, as the personalities of the greatest bulldogs are developed and structured at a young age. You can give the below training to your American bulldog Puppy. Potty training: To avoid undesired accidents within the home, you must potty train your puppy. Take your pup out every hour on the hour to the spot you require the dog to eliminate throughout the day for several days. Obedience training: American Bulldogs are a highly intelligent, strong-willed, and generally stubborn puppies breed. Unfortunately, these qualities of a puppy can make them more challenging to train, particularly for first-time dog owners. They will require knowing that you are the dominant one in the connection, and training them will need a lot of devotion and patience. Socialization: Bring them with you to a range of places. This can help your dog learn how to act with different people and animals further as to how to act in numerous things. Socialize will end up your dog familiar stable, pleasant, and fearless adult. Keep your American Bulldog on a leash when including it to new people, such as neighbors. Learn the basic commands like return, sit, stay, heel, down. The only way to discipline is by leading them with confidence and quality. But, like any dog, this pup can be destructive if left with nothing to do. As a result, American Bulldogs are generally excellent watchdogs. These pups generally bark when a stranger approaches the door, or a new animal is in the vicinity. Biting: All dogs, including Bulldog pups, will bite when they are young. Bulldogs can bite, and they bite very hard. Then, they go through a phase called teething, during which time they will put anything and everything they can in their mouths. Bulldogs are not aggressive by nature, but like any dog, they can become aggressive when provoked. But regardless of the bulldog breed, all bulldogs have a flatter face with a more defined jaw. When it comes to feeding your American Bulldog puppy, it is important to choose a high-quality food that is designed for large breeds. Puppies grow quickly and need plenty of nutrients to support their growing bodies. Look for a food that is rich in protein and fat, as well as essential vitamins and minerals. Avoid foods that are high in fillers or contain artificial ingredients. Your American Bulldog puppy should eat three to four times a day, so divide their daily ration into smaller meals. Puppies under six months old need to eat more often than older puppies. Always have fresh water available for your puppy and monitor their food intake to ensure they are getting enough to eat. A healthy American Bulldog should eat about 2 to 3 cups of food a day, divided into two or three meals. When in doubt, ask your veterinarian how much food your dog needs. Puppies and pregnant or nursing dogs may need more food. Senior dogs may need less. There are a variety of raw meats that you can feed your American Bulldog. Some of the most popular include chicken, turkey, beef, and lamb. You can also find specialty raw foods that are made specifically for Bulldogs. These can be found at most pet stores or online. You should also wash the meat thoroughly before feeding it to your dog. Raw meat is an excellent source of protein for your American Bulldog. It can help to build muscle and keep their coat healthy. Raw meat is also easy for them to digest and can give them the energy they need to stay active. If you are unsure of what kind of raw meat to feed your American Bulldog, you can always ask your veterinarian for advice. They will be able to recommend the best type of food for your dog based on their individual needs. Blue Buffalo is considered a good source of nutrition for American Bulldogs. It is a high-quality food that contains all of the necessary nutrients and vitamins that these dogs need to stay healthy and active. Additionally, Blue Buffalo does not use any cheap fillers or artificial ingredients in their products. This makes them a safe and healthy option for American Bulldogs. Is Pedigree Good for American Bulldogs? Just like with any other type of dog, it is important to do your research before you decide to feed your American Bulldog Pedigree. While Pedigree is a popular brand of dog food, it may not be the best option for American Bulldogs. There are a variety of factors that you should consider when choosing the right food for your dog. This includes the ingredients, the size and activity level of your dog, and any health concerns that your dog may have. One of the main things to consider when choosing food for your American Bulldog is the ingredients. Another thing to consider is the size and activity level of your American Bulldog. If your dog is on the smaller side or is not very active, he may do better with food that has fewer calories. Conversely, if your dog is larger or more active, he may need food that has more calories to help him maintain his weight. Finally, you should also consider any health concerns that your American Bulldog may have. If your dog has allergies or sensitivities, you will want to choose a food that does not contain any ingredients that could trigger an allergic reaction. There are a few commercially available dog foods that are specifically designed for dogs with sensitive stomachs, and these may be a good option for your American Bulldog. Can American Bulldogs Eat Chicken? Yes, American Bulldogs can eat chicken. In fact, chicken is a great source of protein for them. Just be sure to cook it thoroughly to avoid any food safety issues. Can Bulldogs Eat Bread? Most bread is perfectly safe for American Bulldogs to eat, but there are a few things to be aware of. Additionally, some bread can be very high in sugar, which can lead to weight gain and other health problems. Chocolate is toxic to American Bulldogs and can make them very sick. Chocolate contains a substance called theobromine, which is a stimulant that can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and even death in large quantities. Can Bulldogs Drink Milk? Yes, Bulldogs can drink milk. In fact, many American Bulldogs enjoy drinking milk and it can be a good source of nutrition for them. Just be sure to choose low-fat or skim milk to avoid any health problems. Can Bulldogs Eat Fruit? Yes, Bulldogs can eat fruit. In fact, some fruits, such as blueberries and strawberries, are packed with nutrients that can be beneficial for them. Just be sure to wash the fruit thoroughly and remove any pits or seeds before feeding it to your Bulldog. Can Bulldogs Eat Peanut Butter? Yes, American Bulldogs can eat peanut butter. Can They Eat Table Scraps? Table scraps are often high in fat and calories, which can lead to weight gain and other health problems. There are a variety of dog treats available that are safe for American Bulldogs to eat. Just be sure to choose treats that are low in fat and calories, and avoid any that contain chocolate or other potentially harmful ingredients. Foods that are high in fat, sugar, or calories can lead to weight gain and other health problems.