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State licensed and reputable breeder. Featured here with Chloe back when it first began. A Word From Kim Located in beautiful Decorah, Iowa, we raise four breeds: goldendoodles, englishdoodles, poodles and bernedoodles. We offer them in four different sizes: standards, moyens, miniatures and petites. We offer them in two different coat types: F1s and F1B's. We specialize in temperament testing and excellent, veterinarian approved health protocol. We live on a acre farm, which includes a creek and woods for our dogs to explore in. Our adult dogs and puppies enjoy our large yard and grassy runs to frolic on and they enjoy the fresh air and sunshine. They get a lot of attention not only from my seven children, but all of their friends too. They enjoy life chewing on deer antlers that they bring home when they explore the creek, chasing rabbits and birds, resting on our front porch, and interacting with family. My children often grab their favorite dog and have them sleep in their bedrooms with them. Our state-of-the-art kennel has a fully staffed grooming room, neonatal unit, toddler room, photography room, employee break room and a stunning reception room. It is air-conditioned, has propane heat, in floor heating, return air, security cameras and great lighting. We keep our building clean by cleaning it twice per day with top-of-the-line products to keep our dogs and puppies healthy per our veterinarian's oversight. Every dog has their own bed, fresh food and water on a daily basis. No veterinarian need is ever unmet. We care deeply about our dogs, and they are very happy. Most importantly, we pride ourselves in raising healthy puppies from parents that we have done all the appropriate genetic and health testing on. We are thrilled that our outstanding reputation and positive reviews precede us. We take pride in everything we do, including quality customer service and being ethical and transparent in all areas of our program. Our state inspector and the veterinarians that we work with are very pleased with how we run our kennel and have said specifically they wish every breeder could be so organized. I sincerely enjoy raising puppies and I am very passionate about it. I told my mother after my very first litter 13 years ago, "This is what I was born to do. I feel like I have returned to my childhood. He cares deeply about the dogs and puppies' mental health and overall well being. He is often found taking several dogs down to the creek to let them spend an afternoon just doing what dogs love to do,: explore, run, jump in the water, get a little muddy and play with their best friends. I am so honored to have him. We are proud that we serve customers across the entire nation from the east coast to the west. We also serve internationally; Mexico, Canada, and Europe. We aim to please each and every customer to help them find exactly what they are looking for. We also offer any support they may need after they bring their new puppy home. We desire to give you a professional experience. We are honored that so many of our puppies and adult dogs have also become Certified Therapy dogs. We have placed dogs and puppies in retirement homes, police stations, and in families that have children with special needs. Please see Therapy Dog page on our website. We even had a world renown dog trainer, Alex Rothacker, purchase a puppy from us that has his name and dogs in the Guinness Book of World Records. His dogs and videos can be seen on youtube. Search on World Record - Holding Poodle. His poodle did not come from us, but he did purchase an Englishdoodle from us. He had it narrowed down to ten different breeders, but chose us as due to our videos that we provide, quality of dogs and customer service. We are delighted with each new customer that walks in our doors. We welcome you into our facility and we desire that you will have the best experience ever finding your new family member. We think you rock! The kids can't keep their hands off of her! People don't see how clean, happy and healthy all the dogs are. Keep up the great work! We specially chose you after extensive research - because of your love and passion for animals and their future. Thank you! I appreciate everything you all have done! She's so sweet and loving! Thank you again for everything! We consider social, physical and mental health of the dogs and puppies in our program. We work hard at improving the breeds we offer as we take deep pride in offering healthy puppies with a warranty and an exceptional health protocol that is second to none. We are licensed by the State of Iowa and we are inspected annually by the state inspector and by a local DVM. Vet Quotes "This breeder knew what she was doing. This is a very beneficial tool for me to interact with my customers before and after you take your puppy home. Before your puppy comes home, we upload weekly photos and videos so you can have a lot of information for making your selection. It becomes an enjoyable experience for the whole family. If you should have any questions regarding grooming, basic obedience, mouthing, whining, potty training, containment and diet, we are here for you. I also get the added benefit to see my puppies grow up as you post pictures on social media. I am a strong believer in developing relationships with my customers! Facebook provides a natural platform for this to occur. You become a part of my extended puppy family. We pride ourselves in relationships instead of applications. You do not need to fill out an application. We believe applications encourage deception and we respect transparency and honesty. I look forward to getting to know you personally as you begin your journey with our team. Decorah, IA. We are here to help. Contact Us. The Standard Bernedoodle is typically a low-energy dog and makes a great companion for a relatively inactive person. Families love our Standards for their goofy, calm, and affectionate personalities. The Mini Bernedoodle is a medium energy dog, which makes them an awesome balance of mellow and small bursts of athletic energy. Families love our Mini's for their charming, loving, and intelligent personalities. Tiny Bernedoodles fall between the medium and high energy level categories which makes them slightly higher energy than an F1 generation dog, yet extremely intelligent and trainable! Our F1b Tinys range greatly in color and markings. We usually see black or chocolate tri color, phantom, or apricot coloring and some have parti markings! Families love our Tiny's for their smaller size, non shedding, and intelligent, sweet personalities! Learn More Contact Us We aren't adding to our waiting lists while we move to a reserve by availability style of reservation system. If you're looking for a puppy right now, check for openings in our current litters and get notified of any availability by subscribing to our mailing list! What do you do to ensure your Bernedoodle puppies grow healthy? Some of the best Bernedoodle breeders, like us, will offer a 2-Year Health Guarantee to show you we mean business! Once a Bernedoodle litter is born, we take our Doodles to a licensed veterinarian for genetic testing, where all our puppies receive all required shots to ensure excellent health. When a litter is available, we post the parents along with the pups. You can review their bio, see previous litters, their well-being, and why our adult dogs are superior. When buying from Central Illinois Doodles, however, you can rest assured the parents, both the Bernese Mountain Dog and Poodle, are purebred. What type of Bernedoodles does Central Illinois Doodles offer? At Central Illinois Doodles, we breed two types of Bernedoodle puppies — standard and mini Bernedoodles. And while both these types are incredibly adorable, they do come with several unique traits. The Standard Bernedoodle is typically a low-energy dog and makes a great companion for a relatively inactive person. Iowa families love our Standards for their goofy, calm, and affectionate personalities. The Mini Bernedoodle is a medium-energy dog, which makes them an excellent balance of mellow and small bursts of athletic energy. Iowa families love our Mini Bernedoodles for their charming, loving, intelligent personalities. Is a Bernedoodle a good breed for Iowa? As a Hawkeye, you will want to ensure your pup stays sharp, so take them to the vast number of dog parks, friendly resorts, and countless state parks. Bring Fido outlines some of the best dog-friendly spots for you and your pup to get well acquainted. Do I need pet insurance for a Bernedoodle in Iowa? A pet insurance policy ensures you can provide your adorable mini Bernedoodle with the necessary treatment without worrying about a hefty vet bill. Here is a link to the 7 best pet insurance providers in Iowa. View Our Available Bernedoodle Puppies! Standard Bernedoodles are bigger than Mini Bernedoodles reaching weights of pounds. They average inches in height at the shoulders when fully grown. Our Standard Bernedoodle puppies are all 1st generation-F1 variety puppies. They have purebred Bernese Mountain dogs for moms and the dads are Standard poodles. Their Standard Bernedoodles life expectancy is years old. Blue Diamond Bernedoodles have a loving, easy-going, and calm temperament. Bernedoodles are very loyal and social and love to spend time with their parents. Standard Bernedoodles need regular grooming because of their curly and thick coats. Shedding is very minimal after their first haircut and grooming. This breed is known to be a hypoallergenic choice. Here at Blue Diamond Family Kennels, we specialize in breeding Standard Bernedoodles along with a few other great breeds. We have teamed up with a few other reputable Bernedoodle breeders that breed and raise Bernedoodle pups that meet our very strict criteria and genetic testing. On our Standard Bernedoodle puppies page you will see all of our available puppies for sale. Click on this link to learn more. Welcome Welcome to Bluff Country Bernedoodles. Our family, along with our dogs, live on 40 acres outside Decorah, Iowa. It is a very special place to us. Our land includes beautiful bluffs, trees, and a creek that flows through the woods and pastureland. Our dogs thrive in this environment. They spend time outside every day and have many opportunities to do what they love most: run, explore, and take the occasional nap under a shady tree. Raising puppies in this environment is wonderful. We raise healthy and happy Bernedoodles, Cockapoos, and Poodles. We keep our operation small so that we can give our dogs and puppies the attention they deserve. All our puppies are born and raised in our home, and they receive lots of love and care. Our breeds…. They combine the gentleness of the Bernese Mountain Dog with the intelligence of the Poodle. To learn more about this amazing crossbreed, click on the link. Bernedoodles Cockapoos Who can resist the sweetness of a Cockapoo? They are soft and fluffy, with beautiful long ears. Cockapoos make great companions. Click on the link below to discover the many desirable traits of the Cockapoo. Cockapoos Poodles Poodles are very intelligent, thus very trainable. They can learn amazing tricks. They are also completely non-allergenic. Take a moment to learn why Poodles continue to be one of the most popular breeds in America. The love and attention BCB shows to their work with the pups is first rate. Our vet here at home was very impressed with the detail and care in the paperwork and information from BCB. Margaret White Evans, Georgia Mette is wonderful to work with. No shortcuts are taken. Puppies receive what they need emotionally, environmentally and nutritionally to have the best start in life. Communication is great from the start with updated pics and information weekly. Thank you, Mette! Angie Scott Stephenson, Idaho We did our homework selecting our breed, however we feel where we truly lucked out was in finding a breeder who surpassed all expectations. There were nearly daily updates and information on their individual growth, development and personality. Our Magnus was so well socialized and loved, he transitioned easily into our lives. We give Bluff Country Bernedoodles 10 stars for quality of breed and exceptional and personal service! Mette was very accommodating in addressing any questions I had. Ruffles came microchipped with full AKC papers, health certificates, and initial inoculation and medication records. Upon introducing Ruffles to my own vet, the vet said that Ruffles was in excellent health and had received very excellent care. Bill Smith, Minnesota Ready for a puppy? Current litters Take a look at our current and recent litters of adorable puppies. Some of them may be available. If you click and purchase, we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. We decided to take some work off your hands and do our own independent research into all the countless Bernedoodle breeders in Iowa. Here are our top choices along with some useful tips on how to choose a responsible Doodle breeder. One of the key aspects in this is selective breeding and rigorous health and genetic testing. This ensures that the puppies come from genetically sound and strong bloodlines. Additionally, ethical breeders will also back their promises with genetic health guarantees that usually cover the first one or two years from adoption. As an in-home breeder, they never keep their dogs in a separate kennel, and the pups are raised in a calm and loving family environment. Bluff Country Bernedoodles follows responsible breeding practices. Bluff Country Bernedoodles is very much focused on providing their puppies the best start in their care. Not only do they shower their pups with cuddles and kisses, they introduce them to a variety of sights, sounds, smells, new people, other animals, and even start with regular grooming. All of which help the puppies to become their very best, confident selves.

Below is baby english bulldog puppies week by week. Variables such as temperature, air movement, and nutrient intake must be tightly controlled. Puppies are kept separate from their mother to ensure they are not laid on nor neglected. Your English Bulldog Baby at this age, most often do not have their eyes open yet. Instead they rely on their sense of hearing to know where their mom is and the other littermates. Week 3 The third week of life is a big week as major, physical development and progress are made during this week. The baby bulldogs should begin cracking their eyes open and begin developing their new found eyesight. Increased visibility adds a small level of independence that is certainly appreciate. The young puppies are now able to locate their mother and nurse more consistently on their own. During this week, we most often make the decision to leave the litter with their mother permanently. Mom will take on the responsibility of not only nursing the puppies but also cleaning up after them. This also means we are able to get a full night of sleep! What do we look for in a good Bulldog mother? Bulldog mom has to have a genetically clean pedigree history. We make sure each bulldog line that we produce has the best chance to stay healthy and happy. Bulldog mom has to have a great personality. We demand that all the bulldogs we own are extremely confident and great with both children and other pets. Breeding bulldogs with great personalities is very important as many social traits are passed from the parents to the baby. Bulldog mom has to have a great maternal instinct. Because the babies are so vulnerable we try to select and keep female English Bulldogs that show endearing and caring traits towards their babies. Week 4 Week four is our walking week! While bulldog puppies do begin to walk earlier at times, typically during week four we begin to see some major walking. The new found mobility is a joy to watch but does present some different types of responsibility as our bulldog puppies certainly can get themselves into trouble! During this week, we will start to perform some basic socialization steps to ensure that they are prepared for their new homes. Week 5 The puppies are now able to run, chew, and yes, sometimes bite! With the physical progress there are certainly ample teaching opportunities to develop these little guys into well behaving bulldogs. During this time we continue to analyze each puppy socially and develop unique, social profiles of each bully. The puppies start to focus less on physical survival and devote much of their time to playing with their littermates. This is a great learning environment for the puppies! This mushy treat quickly becomes a favorite for the pups. A robust bulldog puppy can now weigh around 5 pounds. The puppies will also undergo their first round of vet checks to ensure they are developing physically sound bodies. Socially, we continue work with the puppies to ensure they are exposed to the many different environments of the new homes they will be going to all while balancing a high level of biosecurity to ensure they are not exposed to harmful diseases to ensure for a healthy English Bulldog! The puppies are now old enough and confident enough in themselves to begin developing expectations. Being held and being fed are no longer special occasions rather they are rights to life that are demanded. We continue to provide the high level of care that we hold ourselves to while developing flexibility within each bulldog pup. Week 8 The theme for week 8 is adoption preparation. We will make a decision with our vet the age in which the bulldogs are able to be taken home. The primary variable within this decision is physical development. Most of our bulldogs will go home right around the end of week 9 all the way to week .It simply depends on the bulldog. At this point we encourage our adopters to finish prepping for their puppy. Northern Indiana based, Bruiser Bulldogs offers purebred English Bulldog Puppies for sale to loving adopters seeking to find a higher quality English Bulldog. As English Bulldog breeders , Mitch and Erica Wysong have dedicated themselves to a lifelong journey of changing the culture and societal pressures of poor breeding practices within the English Bulldog Community. Mitch and Erica believe in producing a healthy English Bulldog puppy first and foremost. Through years of research and development, Bruiser Bulldogs is leading a new movement away from the overdone, wrinkled bulldog that has been long plagued by health problems. By embracing a healthier, more athletic look they are able to ensure that each and every English Bulldog Puppy for sale by Bruiser Bulldogs is supported by a platform of health tested, clean genetics. Upon adoption, each family that takes on the responsibility of a Bruiser Bulldog enters into an active and vibrant communal family of bulldog owners. Mitch and Erica believe it is their responsibility to provide emotional and mental support for the lifetime of each and every English Bulldog puppy they produce. To ensure the success of every adoption, Bruiser Bulldogs will always be committed to helping Bruiser Bulldog adopters care for their English Bulldogs to the best of their ability. I am familiar with common and uncommon health problems they may face so when my boyfriend and I decided we were ready to adopt our own english puppy finding a reputable breeder that prioritizes health was most important to us. Erica and Mitch of Bruiser Bulldogs are just that. They are experienced, ethical and quality breeders. I was referred to them by my friend that I trust after I saw their gorgeous healthy puppy. Our Puppy Primrose is the light of our lives! Bruisers was there to assist us every step of the way. We would highly recommend Bruisers Bulldogs to anyone looking for their own happy, healthy pup! Leah H. We were lucky to have come across Bruiser Bulldogs and even more so the fact that they were near our family and hometown made it even better. We have had Clementine Callie for four months now, and she is a wonderful dog. Her personality is amazing, and I think part of it is breeding and the other part is Erika and her family lovingly raising the puppies in their home with plenty of attention and snuggles. I also was impressed that, rather than send the puppies out right at 8 weeks, Erika kept ours for a few extra weeks because she was tiny and not read to leave her mom yet. It's that care that differentiates Bruisers from other breeders. Emily R. Erica was easy to work with thru the entire process from application to adopting and now beyond as we host our new family member, Chief. Her on-call support and willingness to provide open, honest advice to all of our questions and concerns continues to be appreciated. We would highly recommend Bruiser Bulldogs to anyone looking for an English Bulldog to join their family. Elizabeth W. Lady L. They are experienced, responsive and knowledgeable about all things bulldog related. They went above and beyond for us and are truly dedicated to all of their pups! We love our little girl so much and would recommend Bruiser to anyone looking for a healthy beautiful bully. Jonathan E. Erica and Mitch are trustworthy, excellent communicators, fair, passionate, and produce the best bulldogs. We were at the top of the waiting list for months and Erica reached out every litter to see if we were finally ready for a bulldog. When we were, she was very easy to work with. Her knowledge on bulldogs is outstanding. We had many questions on the process and she always knew what was best for the puppy. We've had Penny formerly Blair for two months and she is very healthy, energetic, playful, and sweet. She is great with other people and dogs. We are so happy with our pup. When we are ready for bulldog 2, we will only consider Bruiser Bulldogs. Mitch C. Bowser was born April and is an integral part of our family. When we were first exploring English Bulldog breeders our biggest concern was the overall health of the dogs. We decided to work with Erica at Bruiser Bulldogs because we liked their focus on improving the breeds breathing abilities and the fact that the puppies are raised within her family environment before coming home with their new owners. Bowser also breaths clearly and our vet was impressed with his overall health from the moment we brought him home. All that said we know English Bulldogs have a predisposition to many health issues and that his current health can not predict the future. With that In mind its important to start with a breeder that open to answer any of your questions as Erica has ours, and that strongly believes in improving the breeds overall health profile. Adam B. My sister ended up finding Bruiser Bulldogs and we knew right away that they were the breeder for us. In September we ended up driving 9 hours to pick up two Bruiser bulldog puppies- one for my husband and I and one for my mom. Jackson and Penelope have been nothing but a joy. They are both very athletic and healthy. They are also HUGE snugglers and always want to be with you. It is an absolute pleasure having these two bullies in our lives! Erica is very knowledgeable about the breed. She is very hands on throughout the process and is just overall a kind and honest person to work with. With all that being said I cannot recommend Bruiser Bulldogs enough! Collyn C. One of the reasons we chose Bruiser Bulldogs was due to the claims about breeding for health. During our first visit at our vet's office, he told us that our pup was one of the healthiest English bulldogs he had ever seen. He is healthy, happy and social. Would recommend to anyone. Christina S. We seen our dog on their website and sent them an Email. Mitch called us and personally walked us through the process and made sure we had the right dog for our family. We couldn't be happier when we picked up our dog Ramsey, Erica made sure we had everything we needed and then some. They are truly amazing people who breed truly amazing dogs! Jim T. A full-grown male English Bulldog weighs about 50 to 55 pounds and stands 14 to 16 inches tall. A full-grown female English Bulldog weighs about ten pounds less at 40 to 44 pounds and stands at 12 to 14 inches tall. According to Care. This will be around inches tall for a male English Bulldog and approximately inches tall for a female English Bulldog. As for weight, a 6-month-old male English Bulldog will weigh about 33 to 37 pounds, while a 6-month-old female English Bulldog will weigh around 26 to 33 pounds. Pro Tip: Check out this ultimate pet parent guide that details 39 dog care tips on health, puppy-proofing practices, training, dog safety, and more! How much bigger will my English Bulldog get? If your English Bulldog is over two years old, they are probably fully grown. Any additional weight they put on may be excess and should be discussed with your veterinarian. Do their paws look big next to the rest of their body? They may still have room to grow as this is a classic puppy feature! A dog rarely grows to be larger than their parents, so this will provide you with a general idea of their final adult size. What is the size of a full-grown English Bulldog? According to the Bulldog Club of America Bulldog Standards , an English Bulldog should appear stocky but symmetrical with no excessively prominent features. English Bulldogs are especially prone to gaining extra weight and may exceed these weight estimates. Your veterinarian will be happy to discuss food type, quantity, frequency of feedings, and treats to get your English Bulldog back to their ideal weight. English Bulldogs may require extra attention due to some genetic health problems that are common for the breed. For example, English Bulldogs will require regular at-home baths, this cleaning is specifically to prevent infections under their skin folds. English Bulldogs are also highly prone to putting on excess weight, which is detrimental to their health. The Association for Pet Obesity Prevention estimates that .The English Bulldog is one of the most severely affected dog breeds and brachycephalic syndrome can lead to difficulty breathing, respiratory distress, heatstroke, and difficulty exercising due to their breathing restrictions. All of this can make weight loss even more difficult for the English Bulldog breed. Because your English Bulldog may have a harder time breathing than other dogs, your vet can recommend safe ways to allow them to exercise and enjoy life without getting overheated. If your pup has a particularly bad case and has difficulty breathing even when not exercising, you can talk to your veterinarian about surgery for Brachycephalic Airway Syndrome which is a common procedure done to help English Bulldogs and other brachycephalic dog breeds, like pugs, breath more easily. Taking your English Bulldog to regular veterinary appointments to keep them healthy and happy is one of the best things you can do for them! Not only can your veterinarian provide personalized advice to keep your pup healthy, but they can screen for common English Bulldog health problems, like skin infections, hip and knee problems. Unfortunately, veterinary care can be pricey. Veterinarian treatments for health issues, like hip and knee problems, can easily cost thousands of dollars. Treating medical issues, like accidents or sudden illnesses, can be expensive, but this should never be the deciding factor in treating your English Bulldog. Final Considerations As pet parents, we do our part by providing quality food, exercise, and care at home, but we also need to take our dogs in for regular veterinary appointments. A professional can provide you with personalized recommendations for your dog, as well as testing to detect any health issues early on. Prevention and early detection are vital in keeping our dogs healthy and happy! English Bulldog puppies grow into silly, lovable, and wrinkly dogs with a lot of personality. Compare and enroll in a top English Bulldog insurance plan here and gain the peace of mind that you'll always be able to do the right ting for your pet. At Pawlicy Advisor, we always want the health care decisions you make for your pet to be based on what you and your veterinarian think is best for them rather than being limited by financial restrictions. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. As a newborn, he will weigh just 4 to 5 ounces. His eyes should now be fully open, and he should react to external sounds. He may even start to communicate with you and with his mother. By one month old, the male English Bulldog will weigh between 4 and 7 pounds 1. At this point, he will be ready to leave his mother and go home with a new family. Male two-month-old Bulldogs will weigh between 9 and 12 pounds 4 and 5. Your dog will now be moving around quite a lot, exploring the world around him, and expelling energy. At three months, males will weigh around 13 to 18 pounds 5. He will also become more independent and need to go to puppy school to train their behaviors. At four months, a male pup will weigh between 18 and 24 pounds 8. He may love to show off how strong he is and may present with some stubborn reactions to puppy training. You may also notice that families with more than one dog begin to have some fights as your English Bulldog tries to assert his dominance. Your male dog will now weigh between 30 and 33 pounds .Females will stand between 9 and 11 inches .Although he will have reached his full height, it will still take him another six months to a year to reach his adult weight. Suppose you see a difference between your dog and the average sizes mentioned above. If his paws look big compared to the rest of his legs and body, you could end up with quite a big dog. If your dog seems to be putting on too much weight too quickly, you may consider taking him to the vet to rule out common health problems such as hypothyroidism, leading to excessive weight gain. This can have various health benefits in that it can reduce the risk of cancer, prevent aggression, and stave off unwanted puppies. This is because the reproductive hormones are essential for bone and joint development. It may even be better to wait until your dog is around ten months before performing the procedure. Excess weight could also lead to the development of type two diabetes, osteoarthritis, hip dysplasia , cancer, liver disease, and high blood pressure. Puppy formula will give your dog the necessary nutrients and supplements that he needs to grow. Physical Activities Regular exercise is key to ensuring your English Bulldog maintains a healthy weight. If your dog is overweight, you might consider exercising him more but be sure to do this with caution so that you do not put too much pressure on his airways. If your dog has horrible respiratory problems, even for the Bulldog breed, and really struggles to breathe during exercise, you may consider surgery that can help alleviate the problem. English Bulldogs have a brachycephalic syndrome, which means that they have short noses. This syndrome can cause several health issues with the breed, including respiratory distress. By managing his diet, exercise, and stress levels, you can do this. Healthy Diet Source: oliver. Just switching him to a different brand or type of dog food could significantly impact his body condition. Dogs that need to lose weight might benefit from being fed low-calorie, high-quality dog food. You might also consider swapping out fatty store-bought treats for healthier alternatives such as slices of bananas, cucumbers, apples, and green beans. Appropriate Exercise As a brachycephalic breed, Bulldogs can have difficulty exercising due to breathing restrictions. That said, these dogs still need exercise to maintain a healthy weight. When stressed or anxious, your dog might eat more or less than he usually does, which will affect his weight. English Bulldogs are prone to putting on excessive weight, and as a breed that loves to eat, they can easily overfeed, which can lead to obesity. You can use a home scale to weigh your dog by first weighing yourself and then weighing yourself while carrying your dog. The difference in the two weights will be that of your pet. Upon weighing your English Bulldog on a home scale, if he appears overweight or you are concerned, it would be best to consult with your vet. Your vet will also be able to provide an accurate reading for your dog on their walk-on scale. When do English Bulldogs stop growing? After that, they may continue to gain muscle mass, filling out their body and gaining extra weight. They should stop growing altogether by around the age of two years old. What is considered overweight for this breed? Now that you know more about English Bulldog puppies, how tall they grow, and how much they weigh, you can start measuring your own dog. In their first year, they grow a lot, and most adults reach full height when they are one year old, though it may still take several more months to reach their full weight. Is your English Bulldog large or small? Further reading: More Weight Chart Guides. The body wrinkles may be visible on their legs, and the skin may seem a bit baggy on their body, but it is still challenging to determine the actual build of the puppy. Their builds become a bit more apparent as they begin to stand and walk, giving you a glimpse of their stance. The nervous system is rapidly developing at this time, and vision is also beginning to grow. Interaction matters, even at this young age. This sets the stage for how well they will bond. Their builds become more apparent, and the skin and wrinkles really begin to develop. Baby teeth are usually all in around weeks. This is when many pups will go through the finger-chewing puppy stage. They eat more every day as they go through various stages of digestion in preparation for the first solid food introduction around this time. They begin to fill out as they transition from milk to dry food and complete the weaning process. At about 8 weeks, your puppy has just started getting used to sleeping through the night. You may notice that their legs look a bit long and thin. This is because their legs are generally the first area of growth in preparation for the weight they will maintain throughout their lives. Your puppy is ready for adventure and has a great passion for exploring and playing with toys and their littermates. You can begin training your puppy at the latter part of this age. With this, their heads may appear too small for their bodies, which is perfectly normal and usually only lasts a few months. As a 16 week old English Bulldog, your pup is entering adolescence. Hold on for this. You might see chewing, not listening, and barking. You will see a resurgence of teething as the puppy teeth fall out and the adult set comes in. Much like humans, this can cause pain and irritation as the teeth push through the gums. Here again, you may see that their legs appear long and skinny for a month or two, and the entire process starts again. Adolescence is at its peak, around seven months. You may see an increase in rebelliousness, stubbornness, and not listening. For the most part, puppyhood has completed its course. The stages of growth for your English bulldog above are all estimates. There are certain ailments that are common in the English Bulldog. In fact, because of drastic changes in appearance over the years, they are susceptible to a large number of diseases and more than many other dog breeds. Feeding them nutritious food will help keep them within the target weight appropriate for their age. This plays a part when it comes to maintaining that healthy weight range. Getting your dog out for a walk also gets you out and active as well! Spaying And Neutering Weight gain and lethargy are common worries following either surgery, but a causal link has not been found between the two. Many times the surgery takes place when the puppy is in the midst of rapid development and growth, so the weight gain could simply be caused by normal development. However, consider consulting your veterinarian about any worries or questions you might have. A male English Bulldog typically weighs more than a female English Bulldog so expect this discrepancy. Having your Bulldog get overweight can lead to hip dysplasia, cancer, osteoarthritis, high blood pressure, liver disease, diabetes, or even heatstroke. By the time they turn one, most English bulldogs will stop growing. However, most of their growth and development has taken place during their first year of life. Are English Bulldogs good pets? English Bulldogs are wonderful pets to have as they are loyal and a great conversation starter. At what age do English Bulldogs start walking? Around week 4, English Bulldogs start to walk.

Location: Mount Airy, Maryland 4. They prioritize personality and breed health and strive to create well-adjusted hypoallergenic Labradoodles. Brown Australian Labradoodle puppy with blue eyes looks to his side. Their puppies are raised in-home and receive a thorough socialization experience from a young age. The breeders have over 20 years of breeding experience, and one has worked as a registered veterinary nurse. Dogs not raised on the property enjoy a guardianship program. The intention is always to give these dogs as much space as possible to live a well-rounded and happy dog life. Additionally, all the Autumn Lane dogs undergo rigorous testing before breeding. They take special care to eliminate breed-specific problems like hip dysplasia from their bloodlines. The adoption process is transparent, and all their paperwork is viewable through the website. At six weeks, Autumn Lane desexes, microchips, and deworms their puppies. They also administer the first round of vaccines. The puppies can then be rehomed at eight weeks old. To make your life easier, Autumn Lane begins potty training and crate training their puppies before they leave the breeder. However, they recognize that puppies can be challenging, especially for new dog owners. Consequently, their website offers extensive resources to help you through the early days. Contact Details:. View fullsize Both our chocolate Labradoodle and our Poodle are beautiful dogs with excellent temperaments. They are our family pets. Because we begin with a Labradoodle and a Poodle, rather than a Lab and a Poodle, our puppies are much more likely to have the non-shedding Poodle coat. A F1b Labradoodle has been back-crossed to a poodle in an effort to insure a non-shedding coat. Even though most f1b Labradoodles shed very little or not all, it is impossible to guarantee that any dog even doodles or purebred poodles will not shed at all. Hypo- means less hypothermia is having a lower than normal body temperature. No dog can be said to be completely non-allergenic. Studies have shown that doodles are less likely to cause allergies, particularly f1b doodles. The ideal is to keep as much of the Lab head shape and super-friendly personality as possible while getting the non-shedding Poodle coat as well as the dignified, less vocal characteristics of the Poodle. Our Labradoodle methodology is quite simple. First, we get quality dogs. This is why we wanted to have pick of the litter for our Labradoodle and our Poodle and why we only obtained puppies from reputable breeders that we knew we could trust. Second, we try to treat our dogs Labradoodle and Poodle well. We feed our Labradoodle and Poodle high quality food with plenty of protein, and give them wonderful socialization and opportunities for exercise. We have 12 acres along the Enoree River with trails, additional property next to a Greenville state park, and property on Lake Hartwell giving us the opportunity to take the dogs kayaking. We recognize the importance of socializing young Labradoodle puppies so they will not be fearful as they mature. Our Labradoodle puppies have lots of opportunities to play with our children, and water games are definitely on top of the list. Labradoodles love the water and so do my kids, as you can see below. Third, we try to find appropriate families for our Chocolate Labradoodle puppies. To learn more about our process, check out this resource that gives a step-by-step guide between the application to receiving your puppy! A Chocolate Labradoodle or mini Labradoodle is not for everyone, and a puppy is not for everyone. If your family is not prepared for a Labradoodle puppy financially, time investment, etc. When can you get your puppy? Because we have only one Labradoodle mother and a couple guardian homes , puppies are available only occasionally. Contact us nathan crockettdoodles. We have a flexible waiting list and offer your deposit back if we do not have the ideal Labradoodle puppy for you within a certain window of time. Sometimes with mini Labradoodles we prefer to wait until they are a little older than 8 weeks because accidents tend to happen more easily with really small puppies. We will take several pictures of you with your Labradoodle puppy. We will send you the pictures for free place them on a USB thumb drive for you , and you will have full copyright privileges to all of the pictures to use at your discretion. You have the option of whether or not the photos appear here on the ChocolateLabradoodlePuppies. Although we never ship puppies, we will sometimes personally deliver puppies for a reasonable fee. Why should you consider getting a Chocolate Labradoodle from us? If a Labradoodle or mini Labradoodle puppy is right for your family, and if you are within driving distance of Greenville, SC, you may want to consider getting a chocolate Labradoodle or mini Labradoodle from us. If you read our Labradoodle puppy methodology and like what you read, you should consider adopting one of our puppies. We have a three-year health guarantee on each of our puppies if the forever home continues to feed TLC one year health guarantee on all others. How can you get a Chocolate Labradoodle or Labradoodle mini from us? If you think your family would be a good match for one of our Labradoodle or mini Labradoodle puppies, then start the conversation by emailing us at nathan crockettdoodles. You will have full access to all pictures and hold the copyright to make as many pictures as you desire. You keep all the pictures. We give your Labradoodle or mini Labradoodle puppy a quality collar. We give your Labradoodle or mini Labradoodle puppy a quality leash. We give you a bag of high quality dog food. We believe that you should give your new Labradoodle puppy or mini Labradoodle puppy the best food. Instructional materials about crate training and house training. Our goal is to do everything we can to assist in the house training and crate training process. A Labradoodle or mini Labradoodle puppy or any puppy cannot be completely reliable in the house until the puppy is about 6 months old. The simple point is that no matter what some breeders tell you you will be partially involved in the house training process unless you buy an older Labradoodle or mini Labradoodle , but we want to help you with that process. A one-year health guarantee; extended to three years for all who continue to feed TLC. We are concerned with finding really good homes for our Labradoodle and mini Labradoodle puppies. Labradoodle Color To see a list of available colors, check out this page. At ChocolateLabradoodlePuppies. Ultimately we cannot completely control the color of puppies. Even though chocolate is the most desirable color, we sometimes have puppies of other colors even occasional merles. These puppies, will of course, also make excellent pets. These non-chocolate Labradoodle puppies are also available to great families, but we know that Chocolate Labradoodles are the most desirable. The Labrador Retriever has a short coat that sheds. By breeding the F1 Labradoodle back to an unrelated Poodle, the chances of getting the highly desirable non-shedding Poodle coat increase exponentially. Some F1B Labradoodles are bred back another time to a Poodle in an effort to guarantee a Poodle coat. If high quality dogs are chosen to breed that have the head shape of a Labrador Retriever it is possible to get a puppy that is very similar in many ways to a Labrador, but has the beautiful non-shedding Poodle coat. Both Labrador Retrievers and Poodles are highly intelligent dogs, helping Labradoodles excel in smarts, train-ability, and a general desire to always please their owner. If you desire a family-friendly, kid loving, medium energy dog that is comfortable inside or outside, that loves the water and the land, you should definitely consider a Labradoodle or mini Labradoodle. For more info about Labradoodle puppies or mini Labradoodle puppies, please email nathan crockettdoodles. Check out our sister site miniLabradoodlePuppies. We specialize in Chocolate Labradoodles and mini Labradoodles, but often we have other colors as well. Occasionally someone travels from Atlanta, Columbia, Raleigh-Durham or Knoxville, but our proximity to North Carolina and the popularity of Labradoodles in North Carolina make Charlotte and Asheville our most serviced locations. We also have some who are interested from distant states, but we primarily serve the Southeast U. The Labradoodle has these qualities too. This makes them the perfect family pet. Unfortunately, not all breeders care about producing healthy canines or matching their dogs with suitable owners. Here are five signs to look for when searching for a breeder. Look for a breeder that breeds only one specific kind of mix—like the Labradoodle. Choose a breeder who is unwilling to meet or speak with you about their dogs. They should be eager to answer your questions over the phone and via email. Check out each dog yourself before leaving with a pup. Avoid breeders who keep their dogs in cages or kennels. Dogs kept in these conditions can become neurotic and destructive. Beware of breeders who offer puppies at a very low price. This could signify that the breeder is not breeding for quality but profit. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. These days I have two adorable fuzzy rascals around me, that ensures I get plenty of exercise and laughter throughout my day! Legal Information The owner of this site, LabradoodleHome. This site also participates in other affiliate programs and is compensated for referring traffic and business to these companies. Labradoodle Home does not intend to provide veterinary advice. All articles and posts are aimed at giving users a better understanding of their dogs. The content on this blog is not a substitute for veterinary guidance. Amazon OneLink. We only breed Australian Labradoodles. We are intentionally small, exclusive, and family-owned. It is our focus to protect the health and future of this breed. Our carefully planned breeding program is dedicated to quality, not quantity. We have a limited number of litters a year and take great pride in breeding these outstanding family companions, for a therapy dog temperament and a teddy bear personality. They are intelligent, intuitive, allergy and asthma friendly, with non-shedding coats. They are affectionate, lovable and make devoted family members. Our puppies are born in our home, in a warm and loving environment with many hands to help. Puppies have started potty-training and crate training before they go to their new families to help with a smooth transition. Puppies are well socialized with children and other dogs, playing, romping and exposed to many different stimuli, so they are emotionally well adjusted. All puppies are vet checked, dewormed, vaccinated and microchipped. Puppies are placed with temperament testing to ensure the best match with each family. Our dogs live in our home or with our trusted guardian families, living their best lives. In addition, they also have their DNA profiles run for positive identification. All our dogs live in our home or with our trusted guardian families. They all achieve the Canine Good Citizen award by 18 months of age. They are our constant companions, well loved and living their best life as we think they should. These admirable qualities among many others make them perfect family pets. They are active, smart and desire to be engaged with the humans they love and live with. They are very eager to please, making them well suited as spoilt family members, therapy dogs and assistance dogs. They are very loving, smart and the make best friends ever. Their eagerness to please and soulful nature makes them ideal as a family pet or for therapy work. They are full of cuddles, fun and faithful. They display a keen intuition about the emotional state of family members. They are non-shedding and allergy-friendly. Coats can be wavy, straight or curly. Our Guardian Program Our breeding dogs are the heart and soul of what we do, and to ensure we are doing the best for them, we want all our dogs to live in wonderful happy homes as treasured members of the family. Our guardian program is a partnership between us and chosen families which allows our dogs to live freely in loving homes with their forever people. Sonali took the time to get to know our situation and make suggestions that ultimately turned out to be right on target. Our family received very personal attention so that our dream puppy could become a reality. We love that big fur ball so much! He has been really easy to train, listens well, and has adapted to our family very nicely. Our experience with Cornerstone was flawless. Olive is such an incredible puppy and we are so blessed to have her. The puppy preparation info and class were very helpful.

Read more about the pups that are currently up for adoption. Read More… Foster Dogs FBRN is being faced with an increasing number of dogs who are ill, handicapped, or need expensive veterinary care before being placed. Meet our Foster Frenchies and please consider sponsoring one of them to ensure that they receive the care that they need. Read More… Surrender a Dog Life has thrown you a curve ball and you must surrender your French Bulldog… we are here to help! Read More… Volunteer We welcome you to join us in our efforts to rehabilitate and rehome needy French Bulldogs. We have many options for you to choose from, depending on your circumstances, time and resources. Our organization is composed solely of volunteers who nurture and foster these dogs as well as provide education and training. Our goal is to place healthy and happy French Bulldogs into forever homes. Read More… Contact Us Learn about the many ways that you can get in touch with us. He has a Staffie sister, Lettie, who he adores and who has taught him so much with her gentle patience. He has doggie friends at daycamp he sees once a week. He is the best snuggler ever! He used to be a resource guarder, but will now bring you his toys for a treat! He loves our daily walks and meeting people. Thank you FBRN for picking us to be his family- we love him so much! Despite being mostly blind and deaf, Ham is thriving in his golden years, especially with his folks now working from home. Thank you FBRN for our goodest good boy! We are so grateful for every day with him. She had cherry eye surgery in March right before Covid quarantine and the surgery was a success. A gigantic thank you to FBRN for allowing me to adopt this perfect little nugget. All Rights Reserved. A c 3 Non-Profit Organization. Tax ID: .Powered by Geeks4Rent. Vocality level 3 in 5 Disclaimer: While the characteristics mentioned here may frequently represent this breed, dogs are individuals whose personalities and appearances will vary. Please consult the adoption organization for details on a specific pet. Temperament The French Bulldog is a clown in a lapdog. They enjoy playing and entertaining their family, as well as cuddling and snoozing with their favorite person. They are amiable, sweet, companionable, and willing to please. A short walk on lead is sufficient to meet most of its physical needs. Frenchie snores and may wheeze and drool. Require minimal coat care Facial wrinkles should be regularly cleaned. Brachycephalic syndrome stenotic nares, elongated soft palate Intervertebral disk disease CHD seldom causes symptoms or problems Allergies History Where are French Bulldogs from? In the nineteenth century, the Bulldog was fairly popular in England, especially around Nottingham. The French women, especially, were attracted to these little Bulldogs, especially those with erect ears a common but disliked feature in England. Dog dealers brought more of the clownish little dogs to France, where they soon became the rage of Paris. The dogs were dubbed Bouledogue Francais. How big do French Bulldogs get? Some Bulldogs are quite small weighing less than 25 lbs, however, dogs in this breed on average, weigh 28 lbs. What are some French Bulldog facts and information? Facts French Bulldogs are best known for: Bat ears.

German Shepherd Puppies are lovingly home raised and socialized at our modern 5 acre park like Kennel Facility in Florida Miami. These are just a few words that describe our German shepherds. Life with a German Shepherd is a joy that one must experience to appreciate and understand, and the intelligence of these great dogs must be seen to be believed. AKC Registered Puppies In Miami Our dogs have provided countless individuals and families with a loyal pet that has a high aptitude, as well as the ability to provide protection. Each of the German shepherd puppies we have for sale are AKC registered and come from a superior lineage. Notably, our German Shepherds go through rigorous testing to qualify for breeding, as our dogs are bred with top sires that have at least a V or VA show rating. German Shepherds are well known for their character and temperament. Poised and confident, our pups are faithful and intelligent companions. They are also great protection dogs, as many safeguard homes, property or livestock. Our breeding program has earned the the highest level of accomplishments that a kennel in the United States can achieve. All of our German Shepherds come with a written guarantee and have been vet-checked, socialized, vaccinated to date, temperament-tested by a professional dog trainer, and above all, have been very much loved. Our German Shepherds are gorgeous Black and Red color, big boned, and correct structure. This price is determined by the size of the puppy, and includes the flight ticket, pre-flight vet exam, a crate the perfect size for your puppy, and travel to the airport. Every year we hand select dogs to add to our breeding program to improve the breed. Breeding top producing west German Sieger show Line German Shepherds is number one in producing quality German Shepherd puppies for sale. Being a German Shepherd dog breeder requires breeding high quality German Shepherds from some of the top rated German Shepherds in Germany They are superior in health with parents being x-rayed with clear hips and elbows by the OFA or the SV. These German shepherd litters of puppies for sale will make great companion dogs as well as excellent conformation, show and working dogs. Their inclination towards making their masters happy, their mental soundness and their high degree of intelligence have made this dog a successful working dog and masterpiece companion for their owners. Our breeding male shepherds are from top pedigrees. You can also visit us on our Facebook page to see recent news. Visit our website, at any moment you may feel you need more information than what we supply here feel free to Contact Us. Our main goal is to produce dogs that will become very special to you. Contact Us with any questions you have about our puppies or anything else. Website: appleridgegsd. They have been deeply committed to the breed for over a couple of years, and they are one of the only breeders in the state to have both AKC and SV German Shepherd Dog Club of America breeding permits. They are a small, family-run kennel that breeds German Shepherds for companionship or working purposes. They breed German Shepherd dogs that are versatile, stable, loving, loyal, extremely smart, and trainable from the best West German lines in the world. Their breeding stock is all OFA certified for hips, elbows, heart, and diabetes. Their breeding stock is also VWD-free, so their puppies will not contract the disease. They strive to breed German Shepherds that are healthy, happy and have good temperaments. They also have a small number of retired adults who are looking for loving homes! Please contact them if you are interested in adopting one of these pets. You are guaranteed lifetime support and coaching! Provided at no additional cost. Emial: mechezarreta yahoo. They breed German Shepherds and provide a stud service, drawing on the best genetics acquired from Germany to achieve their success. Their puppies come with a health guarantee, which makes them one of the few breeders who do so. If you decide to purchase a German Shepherd puppy from them, they can assist you with the full process of bringing your new pet into the country in order to make it as seamless as possible for you and your loved ones. A hereditary hip and elbow guarantee, current vaccinations and deworming, a microchip, and AKC registration papers are all included with every puppy purchased from Puppy Heaven. The puppies are available in two sizes: small and medium. According to their owners, a number of championships, including Best In Show, have been won by their Shepherds at both the regional and national levels. If you are looking for a reputable and reliable breeder of German Shepherds in Florida, then these 11 breeders should be at the top of your list. Each of them has a long history of breeding healthy, happy, and beautiful puppies that make excellent family pets or working dogs. We hope this list will help you decide which of these kennels are best for your family and pets. Do any of them sound like a good fit? What other factors do you think should be considered before making this decision? Remember, this is one of the most important decisions that you will make in your life, so take some time to research these breeders before contacting them. The German Shepherd makes a wonderful companion dog, as well as a guard dog if trained properly. The breed has been used in many roles throughout history, including therapy and search-and-rescue. If you have any questions about the breed or their temperament then feel free to contact your local German Shepherd rescue for more information on how this amazing dog can enrich your life. Are there any other Florida German shepherd breeders that should be on this list? Please let us know by leaving a comment below. I've been breeding German Shepherds of sound body and mind for over 30 years and specialize in providing families with loving companion dogs, and dogs for emotional support therapy, for veterans suffering PTSD, and for other special needs. I'm trying to share my extensive knowledge on breeding and training the perfect German Shepherd with the wider community. We offer lifetime guarantees on health and temperament. Our bloodlines started out of the top 2 bloodlines in the world, Vom Arlett and Bad-Boll. As I continue this blog I will help you learn how to assure you are picking a healthy and happy pup for your next family companion. Recent Posts. We have answers. Even puppies that look virtually identical could have radically different price tags, often with little explanation why. Will I be matched with local German Shepherd breeders? All German Shepherd breeders and companies who enter the Uptown network pledge to uphold our standards by signing our Breeder Pledge, protecting your family from ever needing to do business with an unethical puppy mill. For many families, Uptown Puppies is one of the quickest and most fun ways to find a puppy—and not just any puppy, but the right puppy. Sadly, dogs bred at mills and sold at pet stores tend to suffer from genetic diseases more often, develop temperament issues, cost owners thousands in extra vet bills, and even die young. Do you have German Shepherd puppies Miami Florida available right now? Odds are pretty good that your new best friend is already out there! To start your search, all you need to do is complete your MatchMaker process below. MatchMaker is pretty darn amazing. Can I trust any German Shepherd in Miami being sold online? Truth be told, there are many puppy scams out there.

The bad news? Housebreaking is hard. Getting started early on their training will pay off in the long run, saving you lots of unwanted accidents and surprises throughout the house. If your pug starts to actively sniff, circle the room, or run around excitedly out of the blue, they may need a bathroom break. Whining, sitting near the door, or giving you anxious, nervous stares are other common signs of a full bladder. To do this, hang a bell by the door at pug level, of course and use treats to get them comfortable with it. Establish a routine Pugs are little dogs, and that means they have little bladders, too. Get in the habit of taking them out as soon as you wake up, shortly after they eat a meal, after playtime, before you go to bed, and every hour or so in between. Each time you take your pug outside, return to the same spot. No luck? Bring them back inside and try again in 20 minutes. Your pug wants to please you, so seeing how proud you are when they do their business outside will encourage them to keep up that behavior. The shame may actually encourage them to find hidden spots around the house to pee and poop. Instead, clean up the accident with a pet cleaner so that there are no lingering smells in the house that would encourage them to keep going to the bathroom inside, and focus on taking them outside regularly to prevent repeat accidents. If you do catch your pup starting to pee or poop indoors, firmly say no firm, but not yelling! Reward them if they finish their business outside so that they know that they ultimately did the right thing! Consistency is key in many things, and housebreaking your pup is no different. Related Blog Posts. In my experience it is to teach him the right way and place to go to the bathroom. When I first got my Pug puppy the first thing I did was to begin house training him. It took some patience and a little dedication but within a month my little guy knew how to use the potty the proper way. There are two things that helped me house train my puppy, one was paying attention to him and the other was setting a schedule Set Up a Schedule A schedule will help your pug learn what he should be doing and what to expect from you. So setting up a schedule is really important. Just set it up to where your pug will know when he will be able to go outside to do his business. He gets to go outside: Take him out the first thing in the morning when you and he both wake up minutes after he eats When your puppy has taken a nap If you see your little guy sniffing around looking for a spot to relieve himself It is a good idea to use a routine along with your schedule. Take your puppy to the same place every time he has to go. This will teach him to use that spot and he will always search for it when he needs to go to the bathroom. Remember to also let your Pug walk around and enjoy the outside once he finishes his business. So he will do a much a quicker and better job of relieving himself. Clean Up the Mess The first reason to always clean up any mess your Pug may accidentally make is pretty obvious. Your house will smell like pee and poop. But this only fixes issue of the smell for you and your home. Because of this you need to make sure you clean up the mess very well and do not leave any odors that both you and your puppy can smell. Pugs have a stronger sense of smell than us humans so try using special cleaning products to get rid of the odors completely. You can find these products at almost any pet store, just read the labels and it will say that it removes both urine and odors. Pay Attention Make sure to keep an eye on your little bundle of energy. You will learn the signs of when he needs to pee or poop pretty quickly. And once you do that you can start to make sure your Pug only goes where it is ok. This wont teach your Pug puppy anything. The only way he will understand is if you correct his action while he is doing it. Just a simple stern no will do the job. As soon as he stops take Your puppy outside and let him finish there, and praise him for doing the right thing. If you keep on yelling or shouting at your little guy once he is outside then he will think its wrong to go there as well. Be Patient Remember that house training takes some patience. It will take a while for your Pug to fully understand that it is not ok to go potty wherever he wants. He will slowly learn where it is ok to go and he will ask you to go there when he needs to. Take your time and put your love and care into the whole process. Related Articles. House Training a Pug Overview One of the most important things that you will ever teach your Pug is house training. And, while it can be a bit challenging and you'll have to devote quite some time to this, if you follow these guidelines you are sure to find success. These tips will be applicable for both young puppies and adults of any age that need to re-learn the rules. The main goal will be to train your Pug that one certain area outside is the bathroom area. And, that when you are not home to take your Pug there, pee pads are used for bathroom needs. While the exact time needed for potty training varies depending on how often you are there to actually teach the lessons, expect for this to take about 3 months for your Pug to be fully trained. Also, plan for there to be little setbacks here and there as your Pug learns these important lessons. Above all else, do not give up. The Pug is a breed that aims to please. With proper prepping and patient guidance, your Pug can be a very well-trained dog. Step 1: Prepping No doubt, you want to get right into housebreaking your Pug; however, prepping is a vitally important step and is needed to ensure your Pug is set up for success. Certainly, while you are setting things up, bring your Pug outside as needed details ahead. And, once you have everything in place, you'll find that house training is easy and accidents are few and far in between. Those that do happen will be nicely contained. Choose a designated bathroom area. Your Pug should not just go to the bathroom somewhere outside. Pick on certain area that will be used. This should be away from family foot traffic like outdoor barbecue areas and easy to reach no matter what the weather. Choose a containment method. If your Pug is allowed to roam the house or even just an entire room like the living room or family room this will inevitably lead to puddles of pee and piles of poo all over the place. So, the goal is to keep your Pug in one spot any time that you cannot closely supervise. This means when you are busy cooking dinner, taking a nap, etc. The goal should also be that the area is very comfortable, with everything a Pug needs to be content: Quality bed, lots of fun toys, and food and water bowls. One of the best methods to create this sort of contained area is via an indoor canine playpen. These are square or circular heavy-duty plastic open-topped pens. Some have doors and these are recommended. This is 24 inches 61 cm high and offers 8 square feet of space perfect for a Pug puppy. It has a nice little door to easily get your Pug in and out, and the door can be left open when you're home and watching your pup and closed when you're away. What's nice about this is that as your Pug grows, you can add on panels to increase its size. And, it comes in 7 different colors, to blend in nicely with your home decor. This is a bit taller at 34 inches 86 cm and it's circular in shape, offering 21 square feet. Though it's roomier, it will still keep housebreaking accidents contained and serve the purpose of keeping your Pug in a comfortable spot while you work on training. No matter which option you choose to create this sort of defined area, it should be lined with pee pads. While a puppy will not automatically know that the pads should be used, they will be used by default. If you find that that your Pug doesn't use the pee pads , urine and feces end up near them instead of on them, or they are moved or chewed on, this can be addressed by using larger ones, using a method to keep them in place, or using alternatives like reusable pads or even real grass patches. Have a supervision method. Since your Pug will be in a contained area see previous point 2 any time that you cannot closely oversee your pup, it's now time to choose a method of effective supervision when you are there to do so. The goal will be to have your Pug close enough that you'll be able to interrupt any attempts to pee or poo in the house. It's important that you don't just assume you'll somehow do this. Puppies dart around quickly and Pugs of any age can move around a corner and leave you a nice little present in the blink of an eye. You'll want to avoid accidents like this since each one is a step in the wrong direction and a missed opportunity to instill house training lessons. One of the best ways to keep your Pug right near your side is the tethering method. Your Pug will be on leash and harness and you will have the other end connected to you. Please note that a harness must be used, not a collar. Brachycephalic breeds like the Pug should never be on leash and collar no matter what; it can constrict the trachea and cause breathing problems. Next, under point 4, you'll see details of what you'll need to tether your Pug while house training. Have two leashes and at least one harness. As mentioned above, you'll want a leash and harness combo for when you are supervising your Pug. You will also need these items for when you take your Pug outside for bathroom needs. There are several types of accessories that will be used for these purposes: 1. A comfortable, properly fitting harness. This is for any time your Pug is on leash indoor tethering to you or being taken outside. Unlike collars that put strain on the neck and trachea and is a big no-no for brachycephalic breeds, a harness distributes pressure over the much stronger back, shoulders, and chest. This is super easy to place on you just slip your Pug's front paws through the leg holes and then there is an adjustable buckle and Velcro on the back to secure it. There is an o-ring right between the shoulder blades to connect the leash. This is padded for comfort and the material is a breathable air-mesh. It also comes in 13 different colors, so your Pug always looks stylish. A short soft-handled leash. This is the type of leash you'll want to use when you are with your Pug indoors and supervising him during house training. You'll want the leash to be short about 6 feet to keep your Pug close. And, the soft handle will allow you to either slip it over your wrist or secure it through a belt loop, which allows both of your hands to be free. A retractable leash. For when you take your Pug out to the designated bathroom area, it can be useful to have a retractable leash. And, these are great for taking walks as well. Being able to adjust the length at any time is a huge plus and helps you stay in control of your Pug. It can extend out to 16 feet and even comes with a lifetime guarantee. Have effective training treats. A big part of housebreaking is being able to let a puppy or dog know that they did something right by going to the bathroom in the designated area. This teaches them what is expected and offers motivation for doing that action again. Praise works to some degree; however, the fastest method is to combine praise with reward in the form of a training treat. There are a few elements to keep in mind: The treat should be something reserved for reward not given as a snack at any rate , small so it doesn't interfere with appetite , moist which is often more appreciated over dry , and packed with flavor. You'll also want it to be up to the standards of any food that your give your Pug, meaning made in the USA, no chemical preservatives, no artificial additives, and no fillers like corn or soy. Choose the cue words. Dogs always learn best when they can connect a word or phrase to an action. So, when you are potty training your Pug puppy, you will want to use one certain phrase each time you head outside for bathroom needs. You'll also use this phrase again to mark the moment that the deed was done and when you give reward details ahead. Common choices are 'do the deed', 'pitty-potty', 'bathroom', 'potty time', and 'get busy'. Choose whichever phase you like, but make sure that it's one you don't mind saying out loud in front of other people. Arm yourself with an enzyme cleanser. It's important to clean any accidents the right way. Urine and stools contain certain enzymes that soap and water do not remove. If these enzymes remain, they will produce a lingering odor. You may not smell anything, but your Pug with exceptional canine senses will indeed pick up the scent. It is a strong motivator to go to the bathroom in that area again. To prevent this from happening, clean any accidents with soap and warm water, blot it dry, and then spray the area with a cleanser like Simple Solution Enzyme Formula , allow it to stay there for 5 minutes, and then blot the area dry one last time. To summarize your housebreaking prep: You have a method of keeping your Pug in one area like a playpen that is lined with pee pads for any time that you are not closely monitoring things, you have a supervision method for when you are watching your pup, a designated bathroom area has been chosen, you have training treats to hand out for reward, you have a leash and harness for your Pug, you've chosen cue words, and you have an enzyme cleanser to deal with any accidents in the house. You're now ready to fully house train your Pug. Step 2: Taking Your Pug Out for Bathroom Needs You will want to take your Pug to the designated area: Right after your puppy or dog wakes up About 20 minutes after a meal Every so-many hours, depending on age. This is typically every 2 hours for a 2-month old, every 3 hours for a 3-month old, etc. Before each walk allowing a dog to pee and poo along the walking route is a missed opportunity to teach house training rules Before bed Any time that you are supervising your Pug and there is a motion to pee or poo Right when you get home if you've been away As you can imagine, you'll be quite busy bringing your puppy outside many times each day. Fortunately, as a puppy matures, the bladder and bowel muscles become stronger and there is a gradual ability to hold bathroom needs for a longer duration. Still, an adult Pug will need to be brought out 4 to 6 times per day. The exact steps are as follows: 1. Quickly bring your Pug to the exit door. If you must, carry him or her. It's okay if some urine dribbles; as long as your pup finishes urinating outside, consider it a 'win'. As you are heading out, grab the training treats. Also be saying the cue words out loud. Example: 'Let's go do the deed, do you have to go do the deed? Bring your Pug to the designated area and stand in the center of it. With your Pug on leash and harness, allow them to sniff around and choose the perfect spot. Plan to be patient. Some dogs can take up to 15 minutes, particularly if there's a need for a bowel movement. If your Pug pees, but you think he may need go number two, remain in the area. As the deed is being done, offer praise, 'Good dog, you're doing the deed! The very moment that your Pug is done, offer both praise and reward, 'Good dog, you did the deed, good dog! Both of you need to work as a team. If you find that things are not going as planned, re-read the rules and see how closely you are following them. Ahead, we'll touch on some commonly seen house training issues and how to deal with them. Going to the bathroom right after coming back in the house: A very common complaint by owners is that their Pug is peeing in the house soon after being brought back into the home. It can seem as if a pup is doing this on purpose, as if the dog is mocking the training system. But the answer is far more logical than that. In most cases this is because the owner did not have the patience to wait outside while the puppy chose the perfect spot and the body relaxed enough for urination or the muscles had time to push out a bowel movement. After the body relaxed or the bowel muscled readied, the pup was brought back in and of course, went to the bathroom where he or she was at the time: in the house. Stay outside for at least 15 minutes while your Pug is learning his or her housebreaking rules. This can seem like a very long time while standing there and waiting for a dog to go to the bathroom. For this reason, it can help to set up an outside chair, bring a book or take the time to check emails and messages. Barking at night - Is it a bathroom need or a call for attention? One of the hardest elements - but one that you will soon conquer - is to learn your Pug's signals that there is a bathroom need. One of the most challenging times to figure this out is at night when you are awakened by barking. If you are unsure, it's always best to bring your dog outside. However, it will be important to make it very clear that this is a serious time. No playing, no talking and right back to bed afterward. If you are quite certain that barking is due to attention seeking behavior and not for housebreaking reasons, as long as you are sure your Pug is safe and comfortable, all yelps and whines should be ignored. Constant bathroom needs: Puppies may need to pee every couple of hours and adult Pugs depending on how much they drink and often often they eat may need to head out 6 or more times per day. If you feel that your Pug needs to urinate much more then normal, this can point to a health issue with bladder infection and UTI being the most common. So, it's always best to check with the veterinarian. Correcting vs punishment: Pugs are very sensitive and do not react well to being yelled at. For housebreaking, that sort of reaction to accidents will not get you anywhere. Pugs tend to have their feelings hurt if not disciplined the right way and therefore rubbing a dog's nose in poop or getting upset will not be beneficial to actually teaching what is expected. It is best to give tons of enthusiastic praise for deeds done right and forgive accidents. Did you find this to be helpful? It's a page massive book that guides you through every aspect of your Pug's life. All rights reserved. Privacy Policy We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Plenty of wipes and toilet tissue 1. Build a potty-training routine When you first start house training your Pug puppy, you should aim to build a routine around their toileting needs. Luckily, their bladders and bowels are fairly predictable, as they are determined by not only their sleeping pattern, but also what they eat and drink. You should always take your puppy out to the toilet first thing as soon as they wake up — and this goes for whenever they wake up from naps too! As well as taking them out first thing in the morning, you should also take them out last thing at night or before you are going to leave them alone for an extended period of time: this is to prevent any accidents overnight or whilst you are gone! On top of this, you should also aim to take your puppy out to the toilet every thirty minutes to an hour. We actually started up a diary of what our puppy had eaten and and how often and what times he tended to urinate and defecate. Take your Pug outside as soon as you see any signs that they need a pee or poop. All puppies have immature diet systems, which means that each meal tends to stimulate their digestive system faster than it would in adult dogs. Generally, puppies need to urinate within fifteen minutes of eating and then do a poop within half an hour of eating. Once your dog has finished eating, take away the food bowl until the next scheduled mealtime. This will prevent your puppy from overindulging. You should also ensure that the food you give your puppy is of the higher possible quality — this means avoiding dog food with artificial colours and preservatives and ensuring that real meat is the primary ingredient. Confinement and consistency When your Pug puppy is in the early stages of potty training, it is good to confine to a small area such as a room, a crate or via a lead until you are confident that they can roam the house freely without accidents. Furthermore, consistency goes hand-in-hand with confinement, and it involves introducing your dogs to select areas to toilet in so that, over time, they will learn to associate going to the toilet with that area of the house or outside. A good way to ease your dog into this component of toilet training is via puppy pad training or crate training. Handy Hint: Never shout or punish a dog for getting it wrong; there are better ways you can discipline a Pug. Essentially, the purpose of the puppy pad is not only to reduce mess, but also to get your puppy used to the idea of doing their business in an approved, select area indoors an area that is easy to clean up! Overtime, your puppy will learn to associate the pad itself with areas where it is okay to toilet, and at this stage it is good to move the mad outside to help them adapt. You can buy puppy pads on Amazon. Here are the ones we used which also have very good Amazon reviews. Crate training Crates are an effective and approved way of toilet training your Pug puppy at the beginning. It helps to avoid mess, helps you keep a closer eye for signs he needs to go and, most crucially, teaches the pup to hold it until they are let outside to go toilet. You can find a suitably-sized crate on Amazon which work well with the Pug breed. Learn to pick up on the signs To avoid accidents in the home, it is good to learn to recognise signs that your Pug needs the toilet. Commons signs include: Sniffing the floor. Looking restless and anxious. Going into an area they have previously toileted in. If your puppy shows any of these signs, take them out to your chosen toileting spot immediately. However, if accidents do happen, it is best to stay calm and not get angry at your puppy, as this will just make them fearful and cause them stress, which will actually result in more random accidents. Use a phrase they will learn to understand One of the most important aspects that goes a long with in potty training your Pug puppy to use a phrase they learn to identify with. By doing so, he would learn to identify the phrase and location with the action. Reward the puppy for a good job When your Pug puppy has finished his pee or poop in the right place, you should give them a reward or positive reinforcement with praise. By rewarding good behavior you will start a pattern of success which can lead to far faster house breaking and training. Never scold them Accidents are going to happen a lot, and whilst this can be frustrating, never shout at or scold the puppy. I remember countless times where I would have just cleaned a pee up from the kitchen floor, only for our puppy to crouch and pee again just seconds later. When should I start potty training my Pug puppy? It is generally recommended to start house training your Pug puppy once they are between 12 weeks and 16 weeks old. This is a good age to start because whilst it means that your puppy is still young enough to learn life-long skills and have their behavior moulded, at this stage your puppy should have enough control over their bladder and bowels to hold it when necessary — making the potty training process easier for them, and cleaner for you! How long does it take to potty train a Pug puppy? There are other factors which come into play though, such as individual temperament and environmental factors. Be prepared for accidents, but above all, have some wipes and tissue paper on hand all the time as you will get through a lot of this stuff! Once you have potty and house trained your Pug puppy he will only ever do his business outside. Get in touch via social media and leave a comment. Similarly, if you have better ideas on how to potty train a Pug puppy, please share those in the community too. The bottom line is this; do not underestimate to the work that goes into taking care of a new puppy. Toilet training your puppy might feel a bit difficult at times, but with the right attitude, attentiveness and patience, they will learn this life-long skill. However, if you have any concerns about their ability to toilet train, always contact a vet or a professional trainer. As unlikely as this is, there are some Pugs who will need expert help. You might also like…. How long does it take to potty train a pug? Most pug pups will be should be relatively trained with within weeks. How often do pugs need to pee? In other words, you should be taking your 3-month old puppy out every 3 hours, your 6-month old puppy every 6 hours, etc. As an adult, I took my pug out once in the morning and once at night. Consistency is important when potty training a pug. With a consistent schedule, your pug will quickly learn when and where they should do their business. Potty training a pug can be accomplished in a few short weeks with patience and consistency. Even better if you let your dog out in your backyard as it helps soil just one area instead of the entire backyard. When potty training a pug, it is important to have patience. Pugs are a unique breed of dog and they require a different approach to potty training than other breeds. But you can their to his strong suit… 5 — Use positive reinforcement: Rewarding your pug for going potty outside will help them to understand that this is what you want them. Positive reinforcement can be done with treats, praise, or even a favorite toy. It is important to be consistent with the rewards so that the pug knows that they are being praised for going to the bathroom in the correct spot. Another way to reward a pug is to take them for a walk or playtime immediately after they go to the bathroom. This will show them that good things happen when they use the restroom outside and will help reinforce the behavior. Crate training can be helpful when potty training a pug. I found that it worked, but I phased it out within a few months of use. I had it indoors and eventually moved it the patio… then completely phased it out when I moved from Downtown Portland in about a year. So this saved me a lot of hassle of getting rained on and cleaning Benji on the way back in. At first, I bought the cheap one from Petco and that was a mistake — it ended stinking! These ones were much better and you can buy replacement turfs. More tips for potty training your pug… 11 — Avoiding Accidents and Setbacks One of the best ways to potty train a pug is by avoiding accidents. If you can keep your pug from having accidents, then they will be less likely to have accidents in the future. One way to avoid accidents is to take them out often, following tip 2 accompanied with positive reinforcement is really all you need. This will help them to learn when they need to go and will also give them a chance to relieve themselves before they have an accident. Another way to avoid accidents is to keep their living area clean. This means keeping their crate or designated potty area clean and free of any debris that could cause an accident. Finally, you should avoid giving your pug food or water right before bed. This will help to prevent any accidents that could occur overnight. Instead, clean up the mess calmly and continue working on their training. While there are definitely some benefits to getting professional help, it is important to keep in mind that potty training, and house training a pug in general, is something that you can do on your own if you are willing to put in the time and effort. A chug — ie. How to discipline a pug? There are many different theories with regards to discipline, and many advocates argue that you can train your dog on positive reinforcement alone. Overall, I would find a trainer online that you can learn their methodology and stick with it.

Our dogs are our much loved pets and live in our family home on our small holding in East Yorkshire with us. We have 9 acres with an acre of lake which they share with our goats, sheep, cats and chickens. Our puppies are born and brought up in our home with us, we make sure they are handled lots by our children, family and friends and are exposed to all the sights and sounds of a lively, loving family environment so when they leave for their forever homes, they are developing into sociable, well rounded, confident little dogs. At Lakeside Labradoodles, all our puppies leave at 8 weeks old after their first vaccination and full vet health check. Our vet has one of our puppies which is testament to us and all the time and love we put into our dogs. We are proud to be council licenced and follow the 5 star rating system that the government has set out in the new Animal Welfare Regulations brought out in .New posts will not be retrieved for at least 5 minutes. There may be an issue with the Instagram access token that you are using. Your server might also be unable to connect to Instagram at this time. Click here to troubleshoot. Tilly is probably the nicest temperament dog we've had. Such a perfect dog. Nellie is our first dog and she is beautiful. She is such a character and we wouldn't be without her. Lottie has bundles of energy lots of character and is the kindest most loving dog and is amazing with our children. She is the best and we wouldn't be without her she's amazing xx. Site by Weborchard. We only breed Australian Labradoodles. We are intentionally small, exclusive, and family-owned. It is our focus to protect the health and future of this breed. Our carefully planned breeding program is dedicated to quality, not quantity. We have a limited number of litters a year and take great pride in breeding these outstanding family companions, for a therapy dog temperament and a teddy bear personality. They are intelligent, intuitive, allergy and asthma friendly, with non-shedding coats. They are affectionate, lovable and make devoted family members. Our puppies are born in our home, in a warm and loving environment with many hands to help. Puppies have started potty-training and crate training before they go to their new families to help with a smooth transition. Puppies are well socialized with children and other dogs, playing, romping and exposed to many different stimuli, so they are emotionally well adjusted. All puppies are vet checked, dewormed, vaccinated and microchipped. Puppies are placed with temperament testing to ensure the best match with each family. Our dogs live in our home or with our trusted guardian families, living their best lives. In addition, they also have their DNA profiles run for positive identification. All our dogs live in our home or with our trusted guardian families. They all achieve the Canine Good Citizen award by 18 months of age. They are our constant companions, well loved and living their best life as we think they should. These admirable qualities among many others make them perfect family pets. They are active, smart and desire to be engaged with the humans they love and live with. They are very eager to please, making them well suited as spoilt family members, therapy dogs and assistance dogs. They are very loving, smart and the make best friends ever. Their eagerness to please and soulful nature makes them ideal as a family pet or for therapy work. They are full of cuddles, fun and faithful. They display a keen intuition about the emotional state of family members. They are non-shedding and allergy-friendly. Coats can be wavy, straight or curly. Our Guardian Program Our breeding dogs are the heart and soul of what we do, and to ensure we are doing the best for them, we want all our dogs to live in wonderful happy homes as treasured members of the family. Our guardian program is a partnership between us and chosen families which allows our dogs to live freely in loving homes with their forever people. Sonali took the time to get to know our situation and make suggestions that ultimately turned out to be right on target. Our family received very personal attention so that our dream puppy could become a reality. We love that big fur ball so much! He has been really easy to train, listens well, and has adapted to our family very nicely. Our experience with Cornerstone was flawless. Olive is such an incredible puppy and we are so blessed to have her. The puppy preparation info and class were very helpful.

Pug Hair Loss Overview While this breed is a very heavy shedder that will result in fur from the entire body falling off evenly, this section covers the more specific issue of hair loss on a particular region of a Pug's body. This can be in one or several areas of the body. Owners may notice that the coat looks a bit thin or patchy to varying degrees including enough missing fur that skin shows through. This may occur just about anywhere including the armpits, legs, flanks, or areas of the back, or the head. Small areas may spread as time goes by. Odd patterns of fur loss. Unlike the often heavy shedding that this breed is known for in which there is essentially an even loss of fur over the entire body, there may be circular patterns of thinning or balding areas. Irritated skin. This is not always the case; however, coat loss and skin problems may go hand in hand. Opposite to this, issues that lead to thinning or balding fur may in turn cause itching. The 8 Top Reasons a Pug May Have Hair Loss There are many reasons why a Pug's coat may thin and become bald in some spots; however, these are the 8 most common causes: 1. Ringworm is also a possibility with telltale signs of circular bald spots that appear on the head, paws, ears , or limbs, sometimes with a red spot in the middle and the area may or may not crust over. Thyroid Issues. Both a low level of hormones hypothyroidism or high levels hyperthyroidism can cause coat loss. When a dog is highly stressed severe separation anxiety , trouble with transitioning to a new home, etc. One to two months afterward, those hairs may then shed off, especially after a thorough brushing or a bath. Since this is a delayed reaction, coat loss often occurs when the triggering event is over and things have already resolved. Typically, the coat will grow back without any intervention. Either airborne, contact, or food allergies may affect both skin and coat. A Pug with allergies may suffer from intense itchiness, and in turn, may scratch to the point of fur loss. Allergies can also cause such poor coat quality that dry fur breaks off. Canine diabetes. Seen in both adolescent and adult dogs, most owners first notice the symptoms of increased thirst, weakness, and weight changes. A thinning or dulled coat is also a sign. This is a disease in which the adrenal glands over-produce too much cortisol hormone. This most typically affects dogs over the age of 6, but can be seen in younger dogs as well. Other signs of this include bruising, increased thirst, increased urination, and weakness. In some cases, spots may become bald and weeks later the sores and blisters of pus will appear. This is typically treated with a round of antibiotics. Alopecia X. Alopecia X is a broad term applied to coat loss with unknown causes, though in some cases there may be a link to hormones. This is covered next. Since this term was coined, studies have now seen a possible link to abnormal hormone levels estrogen or testosterone in some cases, as well as a link to low melatonin production. This type of coat loss can be seen in some breeds more often than others including Pomeranians, Chow Chows, Siberian Huskies, and Keeshonds, though no breed is immune including Pug dogs. It can develop at any age. Symptoms: Fur texture becomes poor, hair shafts break, and patches of thinness or baldness appear which may be in circular patterns. This may be on just certain spots on the body or be a full-body balding though the face is not often affected. Scabs and scaling may be seen. Skin in the balding areas may darken. Diagnosis: All other possible causes of coat loss need to be ruled out. Testing should include a blood panel, a urinalysis, thyroid testing, adrenal hormone testing, and a skin biopsy. Treatment: Veterinary 1. For intact dogs, veterinarians often recommend spaying or neutering, as it is thought that Alopecia X may be related to an imbalance of estrogen or testosterone. This said, while doing so may trigger regrowth, it is sometimes just temporary. Keep in mind that there are health benefits to sterilization regardless of whether or not there is a coat loss issue. In many cases, when a dog is spayed or neutered, regular doses of melatonin are also given details ahead in Treatment: Home Remedies. Prescribed medications. There are some options, but all involve risk of side effects and do not produce results for all dogs. Cortisol, a medication that suppresses adrenal gland function, is sometimes given, but can have serious adverse side effects including dizziness, drowsiness, depressed mood, skin rash, nausea, vomiting, loss of appetite, bloody diarrhea, collapse, severe electrolyte imbalance, and rapid destruction of the adrenal gland which may result in death. Continuous monitoring must be done and results can vary. There has been some testing done with hormone therapy, like Deslorelin which affects the production of both estrogen and testosterone that showed some hair growth only for intact male dogs. Melatonin is produced by the body at night and works to regulate sleep patterns. This can cause some drowsiness; in fact, it is sometimes given to dogs to help with anxiety or insomnia. Daily dosing ranges from 1 to 3 mg, given at night. It may take up to 3 months to see if it is helping. If fur starts to grow in, continue the melatonin until the growth seems to have plateaued. At that point, the dose can be gradually tapered down over several months until just a weekly dose is given. Some dogs can ultimately discontinue this; however, if melatonin is completely stopped and fur loss happens again, the coat may not respond a second time. While this should be vet approved, an effective over-the-counter choice is Nature's Bounty 1 mg Melatonin. Omega-3 EPA and DHA are the most effective types of omega for skin and coat health which can play a significant role in helping a Pug grow their fur back. For this, Zesty Paw's Pure Wild Alaskan Salmon Oil is recommended which is a liquid omega-3 fish oil derived from wild salmon caught off the coast of Alaska. Be sure to mix this in well; if not, just the pieces with fish oil may be eaten since both the scent and taste can be very appealing to canines. This is a 3-step process. Step 1 - Restorative cream: Just massaging in a lotion each day to affected areas of fur loss can help tremendously; this stimulates blood circulation to the hair follicles which can prompt fur to grow. However, when certain skin restorative ingredients are used to improve skin health, this can be additionally beneficial. This is a rich, soothing blend that contains aloe vera, manuka honey, coconut oil, olive oil, hemp seed oil, and shea butter. Instructions for use: Massage into the skin wherever the coat is thinning 2 times each day for 7 straight days, for at least 5 minutes. After this first week is complete, massage it into the skin wherever the coat is thinning 1 time each day. If you reach a point where the coat is growing back in, continue to use every other day for a few weeks. Once the coat is fully restored, you may wish to use this once per week as maintenance. Step 2 - Specialty shampoo: Giving baths with certain shampoos is an opportunity to fully encase a Pug's body with restorative ingredients to offer relief and promote fur growth. Peppermint and eucalyptus are great for soothing irritated skin and aloe vera and tea tree oil are excellent in restoring proper moisture levels and elasticity. Instructions for use: Though Pugs should usually have baths once every 3 weeks, when you are trying to help the coat regrow and you are using restorative and moisturizing products, you can shampoo much more often than normal, up to twice per week for the first month. Once the coat has been thoroughly soak with water, apply a liberal amount of shampoo. Gently lather up your Pug, allowing the product to soak in for 10 minutes. Rinse well with lukewarm water. Follow with a wash-out conditioner. Instructions for use: Once the shampoo has been rinsed out, apply a liberal amount of conditioner. Gently massage this into your Pug's coat, allowing this to soak in for 10 minutes. Rinse out with lukewarm water. Use a soft absorbent towel to pet your Pug dry; do not rub and do not blow-dry. While you are in the process of helping the fur grow back on your Pug, those areas should be protected from coming into contact with abrasive or coarse surfaces. Be sure that your Pug has a supportive dog bed and if balding areas are on the upper part of the body, consider slipping a loose-fit shirt or sweater onto your Pug which can both protect sensitive areas and offer warmth. Do you have our book? This is the most comprehensive Pug book that exists and is available as a hard copy huge 8. Are you receiving our newsletters and updates? Become a free PetPugDog Member today. We'll send you updates regarding the newest articles and Pug-related information. And, you can suggest a topic for us to write about, we always look to member suggestions. You may also be interested in: The best way to groom a Pug - Keeping all areas of the body properly cleaned eye area, ears, wrinkles, underbelly, etc. Pug Dog Life Span - This breed's life span, top causes of death, and ways to help your Pug live as long as possible. Healthy snacks for a Pug dog - With a tendency to become overweight quickly, choosing low calorie snacks for this breed is an important part of care. All rights reserved. Privacy Policy We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. This means that your dog still can live a happy, fulfilling life even with these medical challenges. If so, they might have pressure sores. Pressure sores, also known as bedsores or decubital ulcers, occur most often in senior dogs, large breeds, or heavy breeds. These calluses lead to thicker skin and hair loss. Older and heavier dogs are more likely to experience pressure sores simply because they are less active and oftentimes have less muscle mass. Although sometimes tricky, these sores can be prevented, and the symptoms can be alleviated. Genetics Just like with humans, genetics plays a role in hair loss in dogs. Other dog breeds simply experience patchy hair or baldness on different parts of their body, such as the chest, back, thigh, or neck. Typically, this type of hair loss occurs after the dog reaches one year old. Infection or Infestation These words sound scary, and the resulting hair loss or skin conditions can look even scarier. Hair loss from infection or infestation can be caused by ringworm fungus, mange mites, fleas, parasites, ticks, and bacteria. In fact, fleas and mites are oftentimes the most common culprits behind hair loss and allergic reactions. These pests cause irritation, which is often misdiagnosed as an allergic reaction resulting in unnecessary treatments such as steroids. While many dogs will lick, bite, and scratch at the infected skin, resulting in wide-spread hair loss, there are additional signs and symptoms to watch out for. Some signs your dog might be experiencing an infection or infestation are as follows: Hair loss around the ears, eyes, and mouth Oily skin. Weakness 7. Infection Folliculitis occurs when the hair follicles become infected. Hair will typically become thinner in these areas, resulting in bald patches. Folliculitis can usually be treated with a course of antibiotics as prescribed by your vet. Pyoderma is another common skin infection affecting Pugs. Pyoderma infections happen as the result of bacteria, parasites, allergies, or thyroid imbalances. Sometimes the infection can be exacerbated or brought on by poor grooming habits. Symptoms include swelling, itching, blistering, scabbing, scaling, and redness to the skin accompanied by gradual hair loss. Alopecia Alopecia is the medical term used to describe hair loss that results from an unknown cause. Just like humans, Pugs too can develop alopecia. This is a type of genetic baldness that typically manifests more as a dog ages. Unlike some other conditions, hair-loss that occurs because of alopecia will not grow back. Can Pug Hair Loss be Reversed? In most cases, Pug hair loss can be reversed and will grow back once the underlying condition is under control. However, there are some conditions such as canine Alopecia that result in permanent hair loss to the affected site. This will help promote hair growth and protect those balding and sensitive areas from further irritation. They will need to diagnose the root problem and prescribe the appropriate treatments. For example, spaying or neutering a dog along with a melatonin supplement is practiced by some veterinarians as a treatment for Alopecia which is believed to be the result of hormonal imbalances. For other conditions, your vet will need to prescribe alternative medications such as antibiotics, topical treatments, or hormonal therapies. However, there are some steps you can practice at home to promote healthy hair growth for your Pug and stave off any excessive hair loss. After all, prevention is better than cure, right? Omega 3 Giving your Pug an Omega 3 Supplement will help maintain a healthy coat, and prevent diseases and skin conditions. Flea prevention treatments are readily available and can help stave off hair loss. Topical treatments Mild skin irritation can be soothed with topical treatments, creams, and shampoos. Ask for a vet to recommend some Pug-friendly products and keep up a regular skin protection regime. Establish A Healthy Diet Last but not least, you can never underestimate a healthy diet. Providing a healthy diet is one of the best things you can do to keep your pet resilient against skin conditions, allergies, and illness. The most important thing is to visit your vet as soon as you notice signs of abnormal hair loss. Whilst Pug shedding is normal, sore, irritated, or patchy skin is not so. If in doubt, schedule an appointment.

June 2, Samantha Johnson Newborn Puppy Care Week by Week If you're raising puppies, it doesn't get more exciting than the moments after delivery when you finally get a chance to meet the new litter. How many puppies are there? What colors are they? How many males or females? It's a heartwarming time as the mother dog forms a bond with her new puppies. Even if you have a healthy mother dog that loves her litter, you'll still be involved with newborn puppy care week by week. Here's a rundown of some things you want to keep in mind. Raising puppies is hard work, but thankfully you don't have to do it alone! The mother dog is your partner in this task, and your role this week will be an "overseer" and someone to contribute in areas the mother can't manage, like weighing the puppies and deworming them. Are the puppies nursing? Newborn puppies receive all of their nutrition from their mother's milk, so it's very important to make sure each puppy is nursing properly. Another key factor is the colostrum the puppies receive from the milk, which contains important antibodies to protect the puppies during these early stages of life. In this instance, the mother dog will take care of deciding when to feed the puppies. In the event of a serious problem, you'll need to take over bottle feeding the puppies with the aid of a newborn puppy feeding chart. Weigh the puppies. Keep an eye on your puppies' weight gain by weighing them every day. You should see a steady increase each day and you can expect each puppy to double its birth weight by the time they are seven to 10 days old. Keep the puppies warm! Newborn puppies are still developing and aren't able to regulate their body temperatures effectively. They receive some protection from their mother's body heat, but it's possible your new mother dog doesn't spend all her time with the puppies in the whelping box. After all, she's used to life with her family, and she may not want to have her daily routine entirely disrupted by her puppies. This is fine, except the puppies may need a heat source when she isn't around. Once the puppies are older after their eyes are open and they can move around easily you can fill that need by providing the puppies with a puppy-safe heated pad designed to provide warmth without getting too hot. Heat lamps are also sometimes used to heat the general puppy area, but talk to your veterinarian first. Keep the whelping box clean. You want to regularly change the bedding and absorbent pads and frequently clean the whelping box over the next several weeks. Get a vet check. You may wish to have your veterinarian evaluate your puppies and their mother shortly after birth to ensure everyone is doing well. Keep an eye on their eyes. Puppies generally start to open their eyes at about this time. If they don't, you probably should have a veterinarian take a look and possibly help assist the puppies by manually opening their eyes. At all times, be on the lookout for any kind of eye discharge or other signs of infection. Watch their weight. Continue to weigh the puppies each day during week two to ensure everyone is steadily gaining weight. Start deworming. Under your veterinarian's guidance, the puppies should receive their first deworming treatment at about two weeks of age. By about three weeks of age, you can—and should! Once the puppies have their eyes open, you can try carefully picking them up, holding them for a bit, and placing them back in the box. It's just a tiny, early step towards socializing them with people. Watch them grow strong. Always keep an eye on the puppies' health and physical growth progression. By three weeks, they might try to explore more of their environment. Continue to monitor their weight by weighing the puppies every three to seven days. Lower the heat again. The puppies' ability to regulate their body temperature is improving. Offer water. Your three-week-old puppies might begin to show an interest in a water dish. Place a shallow, puppy-safe bowl in the whelping box and see if they experiment with it. Some experts recommend trying a mixture of water and puppy formula in the water bowl. Always keep a close eye on your litter's physical growth and behavior. Are they advancing properly? Are they starting to walk? The puppies are growing up fast; you can lower the whelping box temperature down to a normal room temperature. Bring on the solid food. Well, not too solid at first, but more substantial than their mother's milk. Introduce soft foods slowly, then transition to solid foods. Pups are really starting to be on the move now. They might start to venture a little further away from their littermates and think they're pretty independent. Introduce more solid foods. The puppies will gradually eat more solid food as the mother dog naturally slows the frequency of nursing. When your puppies are six to eight weeks old, it's time for their first vaccinations. The specific vaccines given at each visit may vary slightly depending on your region and the specifics of your puppies' lifestyle. Additional vaccinations will be needed after ten weeks and in the coming months. Register the puppies. If your puppies are purebred, now's the time to register them. They'll be so impressed with their papers! Not those papers! Wean the puppies. By this time, the weaning process that began around week four will be completed. Have a heart! You can help ease the transition away from the mother and littermates by offering each puppy a pillow that mimics the sounds of their mother's heartbeat. It's a reassuring sound that will help them feel relaxed in their new home. You can also mimic the warmth of their mother's body heat with a heated heartbeat puppy bed or give them that same warm coziness with a heated heartbeat crate pad. Say goodbye. After eight weeks, members of the litter often leave home to join their new families. The week-by-week care of newborn puppies is a lot of work, but there is a lot of satisfaction and enjoyment in the process as well. Aaron, Marc. Williams, Krista. VCA Hospitals. Jamieson, Amy. Whelping means the process where a female dog gives birth to puppies. And a whelping box is a container or box designed to keep the puppies safe and warm. Having a whelping box makes it convenient for the mother to give birth comfortably. Female dogs are very protective of their puppies. Hence the nesting box offers a sense of security. Female dogs need assistance and a safe place to give birth. Hence, a whelping pen would be of great help. If your dog is about to give birth, it would be better to get a box or make it yourself. For a small dog like Pomeranian, you can convert a large card box into a whelping pen. You can put your creativity into the process and make a nesting box for your dog. If your dog is big, she might probably give birth to a large number of puppies. Hence, the size of the box should be large enough to fit the puppies and the mother. Furthermore, you can get the box from a pet store if creativity and DIY are not your forte. Here are some of the factors that you need to consider: The sides of the pen should be high enough that can keep the puppies safe for three weeks. Also, make sure that the mother can move to and fro freely. The size of the pen should be spacious enough for your dog and puppies. It should have enough space where the mother can feed her pups comfortably. In addition, it should allow them to move freely. It will help to keep the pups warm when the mom is not around. These are the factors that you need to consider while getting a nesting box. It helps the mother and the pups in the long run. You would notice the growth within the first few weeks. They can move and stand up over the sides of the whelping pen. By three weeks, they become mobile and able to move towards the edge of the nesting box. However, before it reaches that stage, you should take care of it diligently. Some pups would go astray and get lost. Hence, getting a box with proper height is essential. Sometimes the mother has to go out of the box for a nature call or food. The box offers a sense of security both to the dog owner and the mother. When the puppies are born, they have no control over their body temperature. So, while the mom is out, the box will keep them warm. However, you have to make sure that the bottom of the box is covered with a soft blanket. By three weeks, they will start moving, and some puppies might even get out of the box. So, the real chaos begins when they reach three weeks. It would be best if you were more careful than ever. How to Keep the Nesting Box Clean? Taking care of puppies can be quite tiring. Once the puppies are born safely in the box, it would be better to change the sheet or the beddings. The mother will take care of it. However, from the second to the third week, the real work starts. It will help if you make sure that the box is clean. While cleaning the box, you can keep the pups temporarily in a warm blanket. You need to replace the sheet or newspaper at least twice or thrice per day. However, keeping the box clean prevents the puppies from possible bacterial infections. It also helps to keep the puppies clean. You should see that the nesting box is clean and dry. So, like a responsible dog owner , make sure that the box is clean and warm. Changing the Whelping Box to Other Areas Once the puppies have passed the first week, you place the box in other areas. It will help them to get used to the new smell and sounds. However, make sure that the place is quiet and warm. Some kids would like to hold the pups, which would be too early and maybe dangerous. During the first two weeks, puppies are pretty delicate. So, it would be best to keep far away from children. The first three weeks are a crucial moment for you and the pups. The puppies are in their developing stage, and they need a quiet and calm environment to grow. So, you should make sure that puppies are kept safe and warm. They would be too young to take the regular food and would cause indigestion. But you can keep water for the mother. They get very thirsty while taking care of the puppies. She requires good protein and energy to keep the pups fed through her milk. You can place the food in the water once they can move or walk. However, make sure that the food is easily digestible. Also, puppies tend to eat food without a limit. So, you should give the food moderately. Overeating can cause indigestion and vomiting. Hence, it would help if you were careful not to overfeed them. It offers a sense of security to the mother and the dog owners as well. Having a nesting box helps to keep the puppies from going astray. The first three weeks are crucial for the puppies to grow and develop healthily. Having the right size of the whelping box can help both the puppies and the mother move freely. It allows the mother to breastfeed the puppies comfortably. If your dog is about to give birth, it would be better to arrange a whelping box. It offers safety and assurance to both the mother and puppies. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. A whelping box is an important item to have when puppies are about to be born. You can construct something yourself or buy a specifically designed boxes from pet stores. When can puppies leave the whelping box? Puppies can often leave the whelping box at 3 weeks old. At this age, puppies can move out of the whelping box as they become more mobile. Puppies can stand up and even climb out of the whelping box nest. At this age, puppies start to explore outside of their nest, to find out more about the wide and exciting world around them. Well, I can tell you that a whelping box will help you and the mother cope better with a horde of tiny puppies in their first few weeks. What is a whelping box? Also known as a nest or whelping pen, the whelping box is a container designed to keep the newborn litter in one safe and cozy place. The mother also likes to have a place where she can give birth to her puppies in comfort while having a sense of security. Whelping means to give birth hence the name of the box. It should be placed in a quiet part of the house and set up a couple of weeks before your dog gives birth. This gives her time to get familiar with the box. Image via Pixabay. What can I use as a whelping box? If your dog is a little girl, you could convert a large, sturdy cardboard box into a nesting box. You can make your own if carpentry is your hobby or you could go to the local pet store and buy a whelping box. What to look out for when picking a whelping box You need to make sure you pick a whelping box that takes into consideration the following factors: The sides are high enough to keep the puppies safely contained in their first 3 weeks but low enough for the mother to move in and out freely. The size is big enough to accommodate all the puppies being born. The bottom of the box may come with whelping pads or you can simply line it with newspapers and a soft blanket. Some breeders will use wood shavings to cover the floor of the box. Some whelping boxes come with an extension which is great for more active puppies who are still too young to leave the pen but are moving around quite a bit. Picking the right whelping box goes a long way to keeping mum and pups comfortable and secure. When is the right age for puppies to leave the whelping box? Puppies develop and mature very quickly in their first few weeks. A whelping box is designed to keep the newborn puppies safe, warm, and comfortable. Keeping the puppies in one place and even using a heat lamp will help keep them warm. And, when the mother needs time out, she can leave the box and get some space knowing her pups are all safe in one spot. A whelping box gives you peace of mind your puppies are well-protected, staying warm, and not disappearing once they start crawling. But be ready for the exodus once they reach 3 weeks old and might start walking! How do I keep the whelping box clean? If your dog gave birth to the puppies in the whelping box, you would need to change the bedding once all the puppies are safely delivered. Keep them warm with a blanket. Use a non-chemical cleaning detergent and warm water to wash out the box. Remove any dirty bedding and replace with clean blankets, newspapers or wood shavings. Some breeders do put in a litter box for puppies once they start crawling. This could be the first step to house training your pups. Do regular inspections throughout the day to make sure the whelping box is always dry and clean. Can I move the whelping box to other areas? Once your puppies have passed their first week, you could consider moving them to different areas in the house. But remember, you need to keep them warm so make sure there are no draughts and the puppies are not too intimidated by the new environment. Be careful also with handling newborn puppies when moving them. For the first 3 weeks, the puppies are small, developing, and can be easily disturbed by too much activity around them. Do I need to put food and water in the whelping box? The puppies will be drinking milk from their mother for the first 3 to 4 weeks, before moving onto water. For the first 3 weeks, you could keep a bowl of water in the box for the mother. She will be very thirsty while nurturing her puppies. However, once the puppies start becoming mobile keep both the water and food outside the box. Conclusion Get ready for a whole lot of fun, but also stress. She will take them no doubt but being able to help just a little with whelping boxes, nesting, and more will make it so much easier for you. You might also like…. During that first three weeks we weigh the puppies daily, trim their toenails every days, and put new collars on them every days as their growth is so rapid. The standard puppies are weighed on a regular digital scale and should gain an ounce a day at first and then up to ounces daily, whereas miniature puppies gain in a tenth of an ounce to start with and then an ounce or two a day. Jenny with litter at birth in 4' x 4' whelping box with lots of absorbent padding. Tasy in her "birthing bed" with the first three pups of the TS5 litter "Tasy" moves into her "doll crib" after the puppies are born - shown here at 3 weeks of age. We find it essential that the dam have food and water inside her whelping box the first week, however once she is willing to leave the box for short periods of time it can be set just outside the box, otherwise she will not eat and drink enough to provide all the milk needed for the puppies well being, and if you are not supplementing with goats milk, your puppies can suffer from dehydration. The standard dam has to produce almost two gallons of milk a day by the time a litter of puppies is two weeks of age. That's twice the amount a good dairy goat gives, who is at least double the dam's body weight. We find that goat milk, canned or fresh, is a much better supplement than the commercial formulas, as we have better weight gains and hardly ever have diarrhea in our puppies. If you have more than 8 puppies it is also essential that the dam's tail area and vulva be washed each time she goes out to go, as since there are not enough teats to go around there will always be a puppy trying to latch onto the vulva. The puppies can pick up bacteria and worm eggs, and a one celled organism called coccidiosis in this way which can lead to diarrhea. Mandy with AM3 Litter x Sterling at 1 week old. We practice what we call "giving the puppies an opportunity to learn" as a puppy raising method. We whelp the puppies in one corner of the living room where we have easy access to the box. We have found that moving the whelping box or puppy pen set-up on a weekly basis exposes the puppies to new scents and air currents and increases their adaptability and development by about two weeks, especially compared to puppies who are raised in the same corner until they go to their new homes. This is the first stage of their house breaking. Within hours the smartest puppies of the litter, barely able to crawl, will crawl out to use the paper and then crawl back into the whelping box. Within a few days the entire litter will usually be using the paper. Supplementing the puppies these first weeks gives us a good chance to play with the puppies feet, and get them used to their faces being handled for grooming, however even when we don't supplement we take time daily to handle every puppy and get them used to different textures, smells, and having their feet, faces, ears and tails handled. At three weeks of age when the ears open we start their cereal feeding, and use a soft clap with a "come, babies" command each time they are fed. This leads to the next step in the transition of removing the second box and the addition of a paper lined exercise pen to the whelping box at four weeks of age. At this time we start walking the puppies outside about every two hours from AM to PM. During this time ,the 4th-5th week, we teach them some basic commands - "in", "out", "potty outside", "walk", "watch", and continuing with their "come" command. Once they have understanding of these basic commands we then take them out to an outside play yard, regardless of the weather. It's really important to have this set-up close to an outside door if possible, or to use sections of an exercise pen to make an aisleway directly outdoors. Puppies can be carried outdoors, however their "potty outside" is learned much faster if they walk out the door in tune to the "out" command and the "potty outside" command at the same time. Usually within two days my standard puppies have quit having messes on the paper and are actually asking to go "out" - often at AM at this stage, and I do get up to accommodate them as this speeds their training amazingly, and I have a lot less mess to deal with - and less dirty crates when that time comes along. You can see that I do sleep within hearing of the puppies - usually until those we are continuing training with for their new families are weeks old. TS5 Miniature Litter - 2nd day of cereal feeding and 1st trip outside to the "big" world. We also start the grooming training at 4 weeks of age - starting with a bath with a soft water spray in a utility tub, and using a soft flow warm air dryer and a slicker brush - brushing the coat up the body toward the head, and up the legs toward the back as it dries. We always groom on a table, or the washer or dryer, or a counter - this is essential in getting the puppies used to being groomed on a grooming table and getting over any tendency toward the fear of heights. We cuddle them in our arms on the table to help them feel loved and secure, and to build their confidence level. We try to take pictures at birth, day old individual pictures, then every week thereafter for their new families, and for our albums. We also try to take litter shots as well at the various stages. I find that special touches add a lot of enjoyment, both for us raising the puppies, and for our families who are kept in the "link" of their puppy growing from infancy to toddler weeks. A Tasy x Promise Puppy before his first grooming and after his first grooming. My, oh my, what a difference!! We also start the worming program at four weeks of age - and this is really essential if you occasionally have a puppy that coughs after feeding, or vomits back up milk or cereal. Round worms are the one type of worm that the puppies can get in utero, and they grow as fast as the puppies. A heavy case of worms can often mimic other serious conditions in young puppies. It is also essential to use a low dosage of wormer in cases of heavy infestation, and at times give the puppy a few drops of oil by mouth, and possibly even an enema with a few drops of oil to help pass the worms. We use pyrantel pamoate for our first series of wormings. It is essential to worm every days until no worms are seen - these worms look like spaghetti - and once you see a litter of puppies pass them you never forget them. The wormer works in about six hours and is very effective. We have a computer generated health record that we complete on each puppy, and note all the worming's on it and on the litter weight records as well. Once the worming has been done, and if the teeth are coming in on the entire litter we start adding softened and mashed with potato masher kibble to the puppies cereal mixture - gradually reducing the rice baby cereal. During the next two weeks we gradually start adding cooked rice, cooked oatmeal, scrambled eggs, cottage cheese, ground apple and carrot, and a supplement Green Vibrance which has microbials in it to their soft feed. As soon as the puppies are able to eat dry kibble well and not just play with it we gradually reduce the soft feedings to AM and PM. The puppies often prefer dry kibble during times of heavy teething, however dry kibble no matter how well promoted does not meet all of their nutritional needs. Also the more organically chemical, steroid, and low grade antibiotic free a puppy can be fed, the better for its health and longevity. We keep our puppies on microbials their whole life as this keeps their intestinal system in optimal health - they absorb more nutrients, they produce less fecal material, they are less prone to other bacterial infections, they don't have smelly gas, they are less prone to bloat typical in a number of large breeds , they have better pigmentation as a result of absorbing more nutrients. We have also found that since taking this approach to diet that puppy and show coats on adults are more luxurious. As you can see their fourth week involves a lot of changes for the puppies. At six weeks of age we start the weaning process - although most "mothers" have already started it. A poodle "mom" is the most devoted creature ever the first week or two, but after that usually reclaims part of her own life to be with her human family. She will return to the whelping box every few hours to take care of her puppies needs, but other than that spends her time on a blanket or pad outside the box. Using a higher powered water spray, a higher powered table dryer, and if the coat is still thin enough a palm pro clipper again to clip the face, feet, tummy and tail. At this time Mishelle also adds standing the puppy properly on the table and does the first scissoring around the tail head and up the rump - as much to get the puppy used to the sound and feel of the scissors as because there is that much coat to scissor off. This is also when we try to take the first pictures of the puppies in a nice stance to send to everyone. This also helps to train the puppy for standing on the table which benefits when we do the conformation evaluations at 8 weeks of age. Puppies fearful on the table are very difficult to assess. This is also essential for miniature puppies that are going to be shown. It's very sad when a miniature is put on a table in the show ring for the judges inspection, and is fearful. Just minutes a day on a table, being encouraged to stand and be touched, can make a remarkable difference in just a week. A Maddy x Calvin puppy at 6 weeks of age after her 2nd grooming Six weeks is also when we remove the whelping box, as the mother now just gets in with the puppies about 4 times a day and either sits or stands to nurse them. She also starts to regurgitate her feedings for the puppies at this stage. The teeth are starting to come all the way in at this time, and the puppies will start sparring, and at times will really yelp. They learn at this stage not to bite each other too hard, and this is the first step to them learning not to bite humans too hard. We often have families who want to get their poodle puppies at this age, especially if they are going to training in agility. We do not allow any puppies to go to their new homes until they are weeks of age, as we feel that they need the "sibling rivalry" stage to learn aggressive and defensive behavior - which is learned by their interplay with each other. Many of our poodles go to homes with runners, and I can't tell you how many times they have had to defend their owners from aggressive dogs of other breeds, and always successfully. You never know when your poodle may have to come to your defense, and the maneuvers they learn as puppies at this age are the foundation for their defensive techniques, increase their alertness, and the speed of their thinking and their reactivity time. I love watching the puppies develop their skills during playtime at this stage. It is their transition from infancy to toddlers. It is also at six weeks that we remove the whelping box replacing it with two small crates without the gates on. Our favorite crates are the Furrari's, as they just snap together, and the gates can be opened from either side and simply lifted off for this stage of training. The first night all the puppies will crowd into one small crate - then I will hear them in the middle of the night groaning and grumbling, and in the morning the puppies will be divided between the two crates. That day we add a third small crate, and go through the same process - which we repeat until there are two puppies per crate. We never put the gates on at this stage, just allow the puppies the freedom to sleep in or out of the crates, and to play with them. We estimate that a poodle puppy develops 21 years in it's first year. From infancy to toddler, to preschool, to kindergarten, to pre-adolescent, to adolescent, to pre-teen, to teenager, to post teen, and early twenties. Their intelligence is equivalent to that of many humans, and the learning of human vocabulary in a standard poodle is amazing. They are a joy to work with and to train, many almost training themselves. At this point we start giving the puppies rawhide chew bones to help with their teeth cutting, the cardboard rolls from toilet paper, paper towels, tape rolls, and small boxes that they can pack around, tear up and destroy. Much like a toddler builds a stack of bricks and then knocks it down destructive stage so also does a puppy need to go through this stage. So we give them things that don't cost anything, that are light weight, and the right size around for a puppy jaw to pick up. They love it. We also start giving the puppies soft and hard toys to play with, and also try to observe which puppies in the litter are water lovers - they play in the water and empty the container almost as fast as we can fill it. We often get asked for puppies that like water by families that boat, or live on rivers or lakes, or on house boats. We start watching closely for the different types of personalities that the puppies have, how they relate to each other, to new situations, to new people, to other animals they come in contact with. Those that are more adventuresome, more curious, more courageous, etc. We are also watching for activity levels and how they move. It is also at weeks that we take the puppies to the back yard to play - as they are then big enough to be taught to go up and down steps. We have closed back steps, and open backed steps like condos and the steps at the air cargo depots for them to learn on. This can be quite a challenge to some, and we usually have to delay this training with the miniatures for a couple of more weeks when they are a bit bigger. They are so proud of themselves when they achieve success in going up and down the steps, even though it is just three steps - and will run up and down just for the joy of it. In the back yard they also learn to drink from an automatic waterer, so that they don't fear the hissing sound as it refills. Having nice clean feet, faces, and tail head and rump helps us to evaluate the puppies much better, and they will score better when all can be seen and evaluated. We do not give the puppies any treats prior to testing, nor do we do any actual crate training in closed crates. At this age the puppies get their first bath in the grooming tub with a harder spray of water instead of in the utility tub. The Force dryer is used for the first time, and the Andis or Oster clippers. This is also the clipping that helps us to determine the color that the puppies might end up as - blues and silvers are born black, silver beige and cafe-au-lait can be born very dark brown, light apricots that are going to cream out - we study the nose, feet, heels, and under the tail and neck for signs of color change. Tasy x Promise Pup - Black - at 8 weeks! A Mandy x Sterling Pup - Silver - at 8 weeks. Silvers and blues are born black and change gradually - starting with the muzzle and feet We try to schedule temperament testing 16 tests and conformation evaluations a three page form using AKC breed requirements, International breed requirements, and Puppy Puzzle testing at 8 weeks minus or plus three days, as this is the most accurate time for assessing conformation before the puppy starts its rapid growth spurts. This is at times a little early for temperament testing, however as so many families want their puppies at 8 weeks of age, it is necessary to do this before the litter starts to go to new homes. Often our entire litters are reserved before they are even born, or at least by the time they are 6 weeks of age, and this helps us to match puppies and their capabilities and personalities and temperament to the homes they are going into, especially the puppies that are shipped across the United States. This also means asking our prospective families for lots of details about their home style, their activities, other pets or animals in or around their homes, and what they want to do with their puppy as an adult. We also help families at this point to decide the best age of puppy to suit their lifestyle, as many families in todays age have difficulty getting the time those first weeks to house train a young puppy. The weekly cost covers food, treats, training, vaccinations and wormings. Temperament testing is beneficial, although there are those that disagree. It is done in a strange place by a strange person. It's purpose is to note the natural instincts and adaptability of the young puppies, and our families have found our assessments to be pretty accurate as their puppies have developed. The disadvantage of testing at 8 weeks versus 12 weeks, is that puppies can be conceived over a ten day period. The gestation period is days, with all of the body development being in the first 50 days, and the weight gain being in the last days. If the bitch whelps according to the first puppy conceived, then the last puppy or puppies conceived may not have had much weight gain - however due to genetics it will not always be the smallest puppies. When we do temperament testing we also try to be aware of which puppies opened eyes first and last, which had teeth coming in first and last - as these can be indicative of which puppies in the litter are the oldest and the youngest - as the psychological development can also be different, with the thinking processes of the youngest not being quite as developed as the thinking processes of the gestationally oldest puppies. In temperament testing we are looking at social skills, inanimate object retrieving instincts, sensitivity testing, chase response, bird retrieving instincts, perseverance and motivation. These help to determine which puppies might be best suited as companions, service and therapy candidates, agility and obedience prospects, those with "bird" instincts, and very important today those with good search and rescue and tracking instincts. Conformation evaluations are where we literally take a puppies body structure apart and put it back together again - all on paper. We are looking for the few puppies in a litter that are the most correct by breed specifications in bone structure. As companions for runners, horse back riders, hikers, bikers, etc. Most of our standard puppies, after 10 years of breeding are quite structurally correct - however we try to match structural correctness, temperament and personality to the needs of a family. To be a pick of the litter puppy it must score high in all three areas. At times a structurally correct puppy may not have the best temperament for competitive events, and a senior family doesn't need a puppy with a high working drive. When we complete the testing we vaccinate each of the puppies and tattoo them with their individual identification number - that designates their dam, her litter number, and the number of puppy within the litter - in their left ear. This tattoo must be read and entered in the medical records of the puppy by the families veterinarian at the time of the "well puppy check" within 10 days of receiving the puppy for our 2 year from date of birth guarantee to go into effect. As soon as the testing is completed we start crate training the puppies. The first night two puppies are put into a crate with the gate on, and given 3 small treats. They are cuddled before being put into the crate, and we use the "in" command which they are used to. When they are taken out in the morning they are hugged and cuddled again, and given their "go potty outside" command as we take them "out" the front door. The second night they are crated individually, and are also crated during the day for short periods of time, to get them used to taking "naps" in their crates. They are always given three tiny biscuits when we want them in their crates, and usually within three days they compete to see who can get in the crates first and turn around for their treats. Usually at this age the puppies will crate from approximately PM to about AM without having accidents in their crates, however I do get up in the middle of the night and let them out if someone gets really fussy. In hot summer weather they at times need out during the night to get a drink just as much as they need out to go potty. We always make their last soft feeding of the day by PM, so that they have plenty of time to evacuate before bedtime. Remember poodle puppies are very smart, and if they get me up several nights in a row - I watch very carefully to see if they really needed to go - and if not they have just decided to get me out of bed for some extra attention and playtime - remember the pre-adolescent who wants another drink of water, etc. They will test their new families in the same way, and if they win they are ruling the family instead of the family ruling them. At this point the puppies are ready to go to their new homes to families living locally, or those driving from other states to get their puppies. If they are flying we keep them for two more weeks - and ship when they are approximately 10 - 12 weeks old. This allows us to start travel training and leash training of the puppies, and allow them to develop better holding capacity for daytime crating before shipping. Also it gives us time to receive family t-shirts worn until sweaty and placed in ziploc bags to give to the puppies in their crates three days before shipping. Having items of clothing which we tie into knots for a pillow or toy allows the puppy to get used to it's new families scents, and helps it to adapt and bond much more quickly. It also gives us time to ship their puppy pack to them, before the puppy is shipped. We follow up on our puppies for years, and encourage our families to keep in touch with us and contact us with any questions regarding nutrition, training problems or needs. We also board our own puppies back, which is wonderful as then we get to assess their development and personalities as adults. We have families now who purposefully plan their vacations for the Oregon Coast just so they can leave their much loved poodles with us - they come from as far away as Montana, Idaho, north eastern Washington, California, Utah, and of course the closer regions of Oregon and Washington. Unless we are expecting a litter imminently they get to come back and live in the house with us, and always enjoy playing with so many other poodles in our huge back yard, and side yard play areas. We also continue any training that is in progress on the younger puppies. A Mandy boy at 15 weeks! A Lucy daughter at 1 year - sent by her family in Idaho Many of our families also return with their puppies to take the one-on-one grooming classes with us - with Mishelle now being the primary instructor. Many of our families are now doing all of their own grooming, and even if they aren't have found the class very beneficial as they have learned what to expect from a good groomer. Many have returned for second and even third classes to learn advanced scissoring techniques, and several are now learning show grooming and handling from us as well. It's biblical that the older are to teach the younger - and we feel very strongly about this after not finding anyone willing to assist us when we first started out. We want those who have a true desire to become breeders of the poodles to start in the right way, learning to do the proper testing and research, taking part in genetic research projects, learn to groom their poodles properly, and to breed properly, caring for their whelping bitches and puppies correctly. Mishelle should have been in the picture with "Eve" but was in the Show Ring with her instead. She groomed 14 standards and 2 miniatures for this show. The poodle is a wonderful and unique breed - sharing life with it's family. Stages of Puppy Development Birth to 3 weeks The first 20 days of a pups life it is not capable of much learning. The mental capacity is about nil. The pup will react when it is in need of food, sleep, warmth and its mother. During the first 3 weeks it is VERY important to look after the dam as well. She will in turn, look after the puppies. Once or twice a day the puppies should be handled by a human and they should be weighed daily. During the first 3 weeks most dams like to be in a warm secluded area, not in the family living area. Pups remain contently in their whelping box for the first 20 days of their life. Newborn puppies sleep most of the day away. No matter what the breed, this is the time when the dormant senses wake up. From day 21 to 28 puppies are in need of their mom more than any other time as their brains and nervous systems begin to develop and they become aware of their surroundings. As mom jumps out of the box, they suddenly watch her wondering where she went. Pups may start climbing out of the whelping box at this age, so it is time to expand their home. At this stage we add a small potty area beside the whelp box. If a puppy were to loose his mom at this stage it would greatly affect his emotional wellbeing. Emotional growth is just blossoming as the puppy realizes it is alive. It is also at this age that characteristics can develop like shyness and fear. Any negative characteristics that develop at this stage in life are often permanent personality traits. The puppies sleep 20 or more hours a day. They will not go far, but they will begin to explore. At this time we expand their area to add a play and eating area in the daytime. This is the time to move them out to the kitchen and family room area, where life is happening in the home. This is not the age to be in the back bedroom, garage or barn. During this time, a puppy will learn to respond to voices, sounds and recognize different people. The puppies in their group will establish a 'pecking order', some will want to lead and some will want to follow. The dominant ones will eat first and the omega ones will wait. The dominant ones can become bullies and hog all the toys. This is an important stage to watch to learn the temperaments of each puppy and should be used for placing puppies into the proper homes. Some scientific studies prove that if there is a bully in a litter that is making others cower and be shy it can set in traits that are very hard to turn around, but it is also important to leave puppies in a social group long enough to be adventurous and for the puppy to acquire some social competitive skills. On the same note, a puppy should never be allowed to get too pushy. While shyer puppies have to learn to handle themselves in social groups, a dominant puppy needs to learn it is not acceptable to be a bully. Different breeds need to be separated at different ages. Often if the bully is adopted out first the remaining puppies will loose some of their shyness. Puppies at this age sleep 18 to 20 hours a day. By 7 weeks, a pup is considered emotionally developed and ready to learn, but the pup does not possess an adult brain yet. At 7 weeks old the breeder of the pups can start crate training for an hour or two a day with 2 pups in a crate. This helps with separation anxiety. By 8 weeks of age a puppy should be able to go in a crate alone for a nap, and it is almost ready for its new home. A puppy should never be taken away from it's mother before weeks of age. The mother dog teaches the puppies in the litter manners, respect, social skills, and proper etiquette, along with many other valuable lessons. When a puppy misses this stage it can cause the pup to have future behavior issues as most humans do not understand natural dog behavior enough to teach the pup these things. What a puppy learns now will be retained and become part of who the dog becomes and his personality. Most dams stop caring for their pups by 7 weeks, as they have teeth and she pushes them away. If a pup is left with the dam during this period it's emotional development can be altered, as it remains dependent on her. The same can happen if littermates are placed together. They rely on each other instead of the new owner and they often do not find adequate security in their mom or littermate. They need their new owner to take over the role and it is important that the humans understand natural dog behavior in order to fulfill the puppies instincts and needs. First shots should be done at 7. When a puppy stays with his litter after 8 to 9 weeks of age without adequate human contact it doesn't adjust as well to a human social life. The optimum time to take a new puppy is from 8 to 9 weeks of age. It is always best to have a pup do his learning from his new owner and in his new home. Puppies are often adopted out at 8, 9, 10 or 11 weeks. Older puppies can do just fine if the breeder has spent a lot of time socializing them away from their littermates. Ideally 9 weeks seems to be the perfect age for most breeds to go to new homes. What the dog learns from 8 to 12 weeks will be with him forever. At this time the puppy must be introduced to other people and go for walks on the pavement street avoiding dirt or grass until it has had its 2nd shots. If the first shots are done at 8 weeks and second are done at 12 weeks it is a good idea to enroll in puppy kindergarten that starts right at 12 weeks. At this age on up to several months old, puppies will sleep 16 to 20 hours a day, give or take depending on the puppies energy level and the activity around them. Sleeping more during rapid growth sprurts. The sleep is broken up between night time sleep and naps during the day. It is common for a puppy to play hard, running around with bounds of energy, then suddenly crashing into a deep sleep. It is important to keep in mind that all puppies by this time have formed a general personality. Some are natural born leaders, some are middle of the road and could go either way and some are very submissive and really prefer not to lead anything. All puppies have an instinct to have a leader who can provide structure, because in their minds without it the pack cannot survive. Therefore even the most naturally born submissive dog may feel the need to take over as an alpha should they feel everyone else around them is too weak to care for the pack. These dogs are often very stressed out about their role because they really do not want it, but feel the need to lead just the same. After all, to them it's a matter of life or death. One of the biggest questions new owners call about is that the pup is an angel for the first couple weeks and then it starts to nip in an attempt to control things around it. This happens when a puppy does not see the humans as natural born leaders to which it can respect and it attempts to get the pack in order. If this happens it does not necessarily mean you got a bad puppy, but often means you are not being a good canine owner. Owners must be calm but firm and follow through. Set the rules of the home and stick to them. Teach basic obedience and how to heel on a leash. Do not let the puppy bolt out the door. Stay calm and confident and remember that dogs can feel your emotions. If you have emotional problems your dog knows and will see you as a weak being. Always remember to a dog anger is a weakness, so take a deep breath and control yourself. Should the puppy feel it is stronger minded than the humans it will not want to be at the bottom. Puppy owners should be prepared that the pup may attempt to establish itself as the dominant one in the family. This is where you need to understand a dog's natural instincts and learn their language so you can read them. It may see whether it can physically strike out at his owner like some teens and could nip or growl. Should this happen be prepared to stop the behavior immediately. It is kind of like kids wanting dessert before dinner or to stay up later. You just have to say NO. Each dog is different, just as kids are, therefore you need to figure out what works for you and your situation. If it is being aggressive one method is to pin it on its back and hold him there with a firm NO. If a pup is allowed to get away with bad behavior it will lose respect for the owner and learn that rebelling gets him his own way. The key is for the humans to be calm, confident and firm all at the same time. If you find yourself yelling or angry you as the human are out of control and need to learn how to portray yourself as someone your dog can look up to and respect. Dogs do not listen to unstable humans and anything but calm, confident and firm, to them is unstable. There should be zero tolerance for aggressiveness. Heaps of love and understanding will not stop bad behavior. A pup must be shown fast and firmly that you are the one in charge. If you have a good breeder who understands the dog even returning him for a few days can help as the breeder gets the dog back under control and you assess your own behavior and understanding of this animal you are trying to live with. Sending a dog away to be trained without training yourself never works, as the way your dog is acting often has more to do with the humans it is living with. This goes for any dog of any age. Learn how to groom your dog. Teach it to lie still for grooming and nail trimming. If you are having trouble call the breeder or a behaviorist for help. It is best to have earned a dog's respect and trust in regards to grooming by 16 weeks of age. A pups natural instinct will be to periodically try to test the order in the pack. Especially if there are children. If the owner is submissive, quiet and week, thus making the dog feel the need to lead the home, its respect for its owner will weaken and the owner will become inferior in the dogs eyes. In these cases the owner is destined to be owned by the dog and you will surely see behavior problems emerge. A puppy should have a good start on crate training when it leaves a breeder's home. Help your puppy feel secure by giving it its own bed and crate in a place where it can be alone when it needs some quiet time. It should be crated for one or two naps per day, especially when making and eating dinner and crated at night. It should not ever have the run of the house till after 6 months of age or housebreaking and training can become very difficult. A puppy should start formal obedience by 6 months of age, preferably sooner. Remember when you choose to adopt a dog you are choosing to take an animal into your home. The animal is not a human baby and humans are not born with canine instincts. Take some time to learn about the canine and be prepared to change your way of life to accommodate the new member of the family. The puppies have arrived. They have been weighed and identified; they have nursed and are now sleeping quietly except for the normal twitching. Now what? Your job is not over yet, in fact, it's really just beginning. Nutrition and Feeding The mother will be ready for some food and water. Bring the dishes to the whelping box, as she will not want to leave the newborn puppies. Do not leave the dishes on the floor in the whelping box, as the puppies could crawl into them. Hang the dishes from the side of the whelping box or offer her food and water at least every hours to start. She should be taken outside on a frequent and regular basis to relieve herself. Within days, the mother's appetite will dramatically increase to times her pre-pregnancy intake. She will need a near constant supply of a high quality puppy food do NOT use large breed puppy formulas, which are generally lower in protein, fat, and minerals and water to maintain her weight and health while feeding the puppies. She should not look gaunt or thin if her weight is maintained. Ideally, she should weigh the same at the time of weaning, as she did when she was bred. A healthy puppy is firm, plump, and vigorous. Puppies should nurse every 2 hours or so. If they nurse until their stomachs appear round and they sleep quietly, they are eating enough. If they are crying and moving a lot, they are not eating enough. They may be swallowing air, which makes the stomach appear larger. As they become weaker, they will lay still and not cry. Their weight should double in the first days. Before, during, and after nursing, the mother will lick the stomach and perineal area to stimulate urination and defecation. She will continue to do this for weeks. Weigh the puppy daily for the first 2 weeks, then weigh at least weekly. A food scale typically works well for weighing the puppies. Failure to gain weight is often the first sign of illness in puppies. At about 3 weeks of age, the puppies will begin to imitate the mother's eating and drinking. A secure shallow water dish should now be available at least part of the day. Prepare the puppy mush by placing 2 cups of high quality dry puppy food in a blender with .This should be blended until the consistency of human infant cereal. This feeds puppies of a medium-sized breed. The puppies should receive meals a day of this to start. Once the puppies have checked it out, walked in it, and have eaten some, the mother can be allowed to finish it and clean the puppies off. Each week, increase the amount of food, decrease the amount of the milk replacer and water that is added and the time of blending, so by 7 weeks of age, the puppies are eating dry food. Once they are on dry food, it may be left in with the puppies when the mother is out of the box or the meal times can continue. As the puppies eat more solid food, the mother may be let away from the puppies for an ever longer period of time. If the weaning is not rushed, she will naturally start decreasing milk production, as the puppies increase their intake of solid food. As the puppies begin eating the puppy mush at 4 weeks of age, start changing the mother's diet back to adult food to also help her decrease milk production. Keep increasing the adult food and decreasing the puppy food until by the 7th week postpartum she is eating only adult food. Hopefully she has been fed well during pregnancy and lactation so she weighs the same at weaning as she did before pregnancy. Want to learn how to save on your dog's veterinary care? Click here Sanitation and Housebreaking During and after whelping, the mother should be allowed to go outside to urinate and defecate. Take her out on a leash bring a flashlight if it is dark , and watch her closely, as she could have another puppy. The whelping box needs to be changed at least once a day at this stage, and times a day as the puppies begin eating solids and the mother is not cleaning up after them. A large heavy paper may be laid on the bottom, several layers of newspaper over that, and a tightly stretched blanket over the newspaper. The blanket should be large enough to fit under all 4 sides of the box. If the box was made so the sides set into the floor, the sides are picked up, the blanket stretched, and the sides set down to hold the blanket in place. Puppies can become lost under blankets or under wrinkles in blankets. When cleaning, check the consistency and color of the puppy stool. It should be brown and formed, but not overly firm. Any deviations and the veterinarian should be contacted. To facilitate housebreaking, the puppies should be given definite feeding, playing, sleeping, and elimination areas. Once the puppies are mobile, they will use one area for elimination. Cover this area with a layer of newspapers with cedar or pine shavings on top. The new owners then place a small amount of cedar or pine shavings in the preferred location of their yard to aid in housebreaking. Keep the elimination area clean and dry. Puppies head toward the heat source to nurse so do not have the heat source warmer than the mother. Hanging a household thermometer on the inside of the whelping box will help you know the temperature in the box. Puppies typically lay side by side or on top of each other to share warmth. If the puppies are scattered throughout the whelping box and away from the heat lamp, the temperature is too warm. If they are all piled on top of each other, it may be too cold. Puppies need the extra heat, as they are unable to regulate their body temperature until several weeks old. Health of the Mother Each mammary gland and nipple should be checked at least once a day for redness, hardness, discharge, or streaking color. If mastitis develops, the veterinarian should be notified immediately. If caught early, milking out the affected gland and applying hot compresses will help prevent a spread of the problem. Sometimes, antibiotics are necessary. If she gets multiple glands with mastitis, the puppies will need to be bottle fed. The puppies' nails should be trimmed weekly starting within days of birth. This will help prevent some of the scratches on the mother's mammary glands. The deciduous teeth start coming in around day .Check the mammary glands of the mother daily for bite marks. The mother will have a bloody discharge from her vulva which may be quite heavy for several days. It should decrease in amount and become darker and be almost gone within weeks. The mother's hair may have become very thick and luxurious during the pregnancy. Around the time of weaning, the mother starts to shed. This extreme loss of hair coat is natural and it should be back to normal in about another months. This shedding is more extreme than a normal shed cycle and some mothers become quite bald. This is often called 'blowing a coat. Click here Puppy Healthcare Puppies who are not thriving should be examined as soon as possible by a veterinarian to check for birth defects. Some defects, such as a cleft palate are not compatible with life. These puppies should be humanely euthanized. Dewclaws are removed and tails docked at days of age. Make an appointment with your veterinarian for these procedures to be done. Check your breed's standard, as some breeds need to have dewclaws left intact in order to show. Tail length changes, so again, the current breed standard should be consulted. When the puppies are at the clinic and having these procedures done, the mother should be taken for a walk around the block until the puppies are done. She should not be close enough to the clinic to hear the puppies crying. Once they are put back with the mother, the puppies normally nurse and then sleep. Vaccinations are started at weeks of age. Some breeders give a parvo virus vaccine at 5 weeks of age, if the puppies are at a high-risk. Ask your veterinarian if your puppies should be vaccinated early for parvo virus. They recommend puppy deworming for roundworms and hookworms start at 2 weeks of age and be repeated at 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. Thereafter, use a heart worm preventive medication that is also effective against hookworms and roundworms. Foster and Smith suggest that owners of newly acquired puppies obtain the deworming history of their new pup and contact their veterinarian to determine if additional deworming is needed. The mother should be dewormed at the same time as the puppies. A health check done by a veterinarian at weeks of age before the puppies head for new homes should include checks for heart murmurs, hernias, cryptorchidism, demodectic mange, other parasites, eye disorders, etc. Normal puppy development The umbilical cord normally falls off within days of birth. Infections of the umbilicus are rare in clean, well-managed kennels. Puppies normally twitch and jerk while sleeping. This helps with the development of their nerves and muscles. The puppies crawl well by days, walk at 16 days, and have a normal gait at 21 days. They need to be on footing that offers traction. By 4 weeks of age, the puppies follow each other and carry toys in their mouths. They will play-fight with each other and learn how to inhibit their bites. If a puppy bites a littermate too hard, the littermate will yelp and stop playing with him. If the puppy is allowed to bite humans, he will not learn to inhibit his bite. It may be cute as a 7-week old, but it will not be as a 7-year old. Puppies are born without teeth. The deciduous baby teeth start to erupt at weeks of age. All of the deciduous teeth are usually present by 8 weeks of age. The puppies' eyes will open around days of age. The retina matures around 21 days of age. Puppies should see clearly by 4 weeks of age. Do not pry open the lids for any reason, as the immature eye is not yet ready to handle light. If the eyes appear swollen before they open, take the puppy to a veterinarian immediately as an eye infection may be present that needs to be treated to prevent loss of vision. Some puppies will take a day to open the eyes while others will take days. The eyes will have a bluish color to them at first and then change to their adult color over time. If the eyes appear white or solid blue, take the puppy to the veterinarian right away. The ears open at days of age. They should hear clearly by 4 weeks of age. Deafness may not be noticeable while the puppies are together and first noticed when the puppy is in her new home. Interactions Between the Mother and Puppies By the time the puppies are weeks old, the mother should have an area near the whelping box, but separate from the puppies to allow her time to rest. At about this time, the puppies will start trying to leave the box to explore. They should be well supervised and have safe toys available. The box at this point should be big enough to be divided between eating, sleeping, playing, and eliminating rooms. At this stage, a crate with the door removed and lined with sheepskin or a dog bed can be given to the puppies for sleeping quarters and to familiarize them with crates. Puppy Socialization Early socialization of the puppies will help them become confident and develop fewer behavior problems. The puppies should be exposed to everything possible from metal food dishes dropping, to vacuums, garage doors opening and closing, thunderstorms, sirens, garbage trucks going past, cats, and other pets, etc. Do not try to keep the area quiet during the day. The puppies need to get used to normal household noises. Children should be allowed to play outside the whelping box supervised so they do not enter the box or drop toys in , as children behave differently than adults. Everything the puppy is exposed to now, will help her become a well-socialized, unafraid adult. The puppies should be handled several times a day. They can be picked up, their teeth looked at, ears checked, toes played with nails will need a weekly trimming , and have anything that may be done as an adult started slowly now. Play helps to develop the puppy's mind, as he needs to find solutions to problems he encounters. If the puppies are not in new homes by 10 weeks of age, they should be separated from each other for a large part of the day and given one-on-one time with humans. They can have play times during the day, but they should eat, sleep, and be handled separately. Being in a kennel group situation beyond weeks of age decreases trainability. Ready to start saving money on pet wellness care? Then take a look at Mint Wellness, the pet wellness plan that provides fast reimbursement on routine pet care. Save on vaccinations, wellness exams, preventatives, dental, and more!