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Top Picks For Our Dogs Preparing Your Home For A Puppy You should treat the preparation of your home for the arrival of a new puppy in much the same way as you would for the arrival of a baby because the process is almost identical. You must be ready to provide every little thing your puppy needs in life, making sure they have water, are fed, comfortable, happy, catered for and safe. To achieve this there are 4 main things that you need to do: Go shopping for equipment and supplies Puppy proof your home and garden to make sure your puppy stays safe Set up an area for your puppy to sleep and spend time in when you cannot supervise them Decide on the rules and routines required to successfully raise a puppy Without such preparation, things will be difficult. A Nutritious Puppy Food The most important supply needed for a new puppy is a highly nutritious puppy food. Hopefully your puppy came from a responsible breeder who was feeding them a high quality, complete and nutritious food. If so, you should ask what they were feeding, stock up on and continue feeding this if possible. If not, then puppies are incredibly active, growing fast and developing bone, muscle and more every day. Because of this they need almost double the calories, more protein and have different nutritional needs to mature adult dogs. Furthermore, they have far smaller mouths than adult dogs so puppy food comes in smaller chunks more suited to their size. Click here to see our recommendations for the best puppy food for labs Bowls for Food And Water There is a bewildering array of dog bowl choices out there so choosing the best can be difficult. Looks and design aside, I recommend going for stainless steel bowls because they are long-lasting, cannot be chewed and are very easy to clean. I also recommend buying bowls with heavy rubber bottoms so they stay rooted to the spot and are harder to spill or flip over. Unless of course you buy bowls in a stand, then these problems are already solved. A Puppy Crate And Bedding A good crate is one of the most beneficial things you can provide for the good of yourself and your puppy. First of all, supply some bedding to place inside for your puppy to sleep on. My recommendation for this is VetBed. Many puppies can chew and ingest normal bedding which can result in medical emergencies and VetBed is the most durable bedding on the market. During these times you need to provide a larger, but still safe enclosure to confine your puppy. You might also like to buy a plastic sheet and some puppy pads or use lots of old newspaper for them to use as a potty in your absence. Puppy Chew Toys Puppies chew. A lot. And they seem to prefer chewing phones, footwear and TV remotes more than anything else. Just make sure whatever toys you do buy are suitable for a puppy as many will be too large for their little mouths to begin with. Interactive Puppy Toys So you can play games with your puppy, provide exercise and mental stimulation, you will want to buy a few toys that encourage the two of you to interact. Balls for throwing and chasing, soft toys and ropes for playing tug, other toys for fetch, there are many available. You will also need a collar to provide a place to attach an all important ID tag. ID Tag An ID tag is an essential means to be reunited with your puppy should the worst happen and you somehow lose them or they run away. Clicker A clicker is an extremely useful tool used during training as a reward marker that dramatically improves the timing of communication between you and your puppy when you want to reward a behavior. Although not essential, I do highly recommend you use one. Puppy Training Treats Tasty food treats are the go-to reward used during training so you will want to make sure you always have a good stock at hand. They need to feel happy with being bathed, happy having their coat and teeth brushed, their feet touched, nails clipped and having their eyes and ears inspected. To do so, you should fake going the process, getting them used to being handled, the sight and feel of the tools and so on. To achieve this, you will need to buy and get them used to the following items: Dog shampoo Combs and brushes suitable for a Labrador Scissors Cotton balls Toothbrush Use these tools right away and often, and give your puppy praise and tasty treats as you go so they form positive associations with grooming. Puppy Proof Your Home and Garden The process of puppy proofing your home is very much like baby proofing before the arrival of a child. Except a puppy is far more curious, active and destructive and can get themselves into far more trouble. A puppy is a new-born. Everything is a toy and they will run and pounce and jump and chew on anything in their environment. So before you bring your puppy home you simply must make it safe for them. For things you cannot move skirting boards, table legs etc. To keep them safe while still providing an area for them to play in and stretch their legs, you want to restrict their access to a single room, or otherwise create an enclosed space for them. To do so, either buy a pet barrier or baby gate that goes across a doorway to restrict them to an easy to clean and safe room, or buy an exercise pen puppy pen to create an enclosed space in another room. I also strongly recommend buying a crate for many reasons, but initially, mostly just to provide the perfect place for them to sleep. I shall discuss crate training a little later in this article. All of this must be decided BEFORE you get your puppy home because consistency is a key part of raising a puppy successfully. Everyone must enforce and live by the same rules for your puppy to thrive. Initially they have no idea how you want them to behave, or how and when they can expect the things they want and need in life. The more consistent everybody is with the puppy, the quicker they will learn all this stuff and the happier everyone will be. So decide and write down if necessary when your puppy will have all their needs met, make sure everybody knows who is responsible for each task and make sure everybody knows the rules. You might think the collection and journey home with your new puppy is no big deal, but there are many things can go wrong. Therefore, you should never take a puppy before 8 weeks old. During the first 8 weeks, a puppy learns a lot from their mother and litter-mates: Bite inhibition, canine body language, acceptable play and interaction with other dogs and how to accept discipline. Things you will find it very hard to teach them later yourself. The flip side of this is that the 7 to 14 week stage is the most impressionable for a puppy, where they bond strongest with people and must be socialized to all the sights, sounds and smells of the world so they grow up confident and comfortable with their surroundings. So anyway, for the journey home there a few things you need to consider: Safety in the car, the need for water and toilet breaks and the possibility your puppy will be sick. Having a loose puppy in the car presents a very real danger of leading to a crash, they can easily climb out of a box and now is not the time to use a harness and car safety belt. If the crate is small enough you can place it on a front or rear passenger seat and secure it with the seat-belt, or you may have to place it in the trunk of your car. Fully line the crate with absorbent paper in case there are any accidents, this will keep most of the mess off your puppy and make cleaning easier. And finally, place a chew toy or two in the crate to keep your puppy occupied. If you have another person to help you, your puppy can ride home in their lap if the journey is short. They must be under your passengers control. They will also need to potty every half or so. Therefore, you should plan breaks along the way every 30 minutes or so. Stop the car, allow them to drink, then wait for them to wee before setting off again. When you stop, make sure your puppy is on leash and tightly held by someone before letting them out of the car. And as an extra precaution, carry your puppy and only put them down to do their business, then carry them back into the car. Take with you some towels, plastic bags, kitchen roll and deodorizer to take care of any accidents. And when driving, take all corners slowly, and accelerate and brake gently. If your puppy is on a passengers lap, they will be able to see some warning signs that puppy is about to be sick: Their lips will curl, they will excessively salivate and then eventually start to heave. When your passenger spots these signs, they can place a thick towel beneath the puppy to catch everything and avoid a mess in your vehicle. When bringing home a new puppy, make sure you collect them and then drive straight home. Your puppy is having the most stressful day of their short life so far, try not to make it harder than it already is by taking them to strange places and passing them around to strangers to say hello. You want to get them home quickly so they can start the process of settling in as soon as possible. Whether this is inside on paper, or a spot outside, as soon as you arrive home carry them there, set them down and wait for them to do their business before doing anything else. This might take 30 seconds or it might take 10 minutes, but patiently wait and when they go, praise them profusely. Well done! Shut them in another room away from the puppy as things are intense enough as it is. Explain they have to be calm and gentle during the first introductions. Let them sniff and look around, getting used to the area and their new little world. You can now let people come and say hello. Have people sit or kneel to greet them. Once everybody has said hello, you should stay with your puppy, show interest but stay calm. Allow Your Puppy To Sleep After all the excitement, stress, massive change and huge amount of mental stimulation your puppy has just been through, they will likely need to sleep soon after arriving at your home. So as soon as they either start to look tired, or the introductions to their new living space and family have ended whichever comes first put them to bed for a short while. On the other hand they might feel completely overwhelmed, retreat into themselves and show reluctance to explore. They might slink into a corner silently and sit there watching their new world with wonder but apprehension, before falling asleep for hours. And when it comes to the first night they might sleep right through, or they might cry and whine the whole night. As your puppy begins to get used to everything, their character will start to shine through and you will begin to see their true personalities. Exactly what this will be is different for every puppy…it will be fun for you to find out! And by being the provider of everything they need in life, giving them all that is good, it will only take 2 or 3 days for your puppy to learn to love you and get excited and happy to see you when you turn up. So your task is to set up and stick to these schedules, begin training your puppy and help them to learn how you want them to behave and when they can expect the things they need in life. What should you feed your puppy You should feed your puppy the same food they had at the breeders because an abrupt change in diet almost always leads to stomach upset. Complete and balanced means it has everything a puppy needs, and in the right quantities. So seek out this kind of wording and check the internet for other owners reviews. Puppies need to eat a lot because their rate of growth is very high. For puppies up to 12 weeks, you should divide their daily requirement into 4 portions, for puppies 12 to 26 weeks, feed them 3 times per day and from 26 weeks on feed them twice per day. You should also aim to feed them as close as you can to the same times every day and evenly spaced throughout the day. This will help their body clocks fall into a pattern and will help your house training immensely because they then potty the same times every day. For example: 8 to 12 weeks old, 4 times a day at AM, AM, PM and PM 12 to 26 weeks old, 3 times a day at AM, PM and PM 26 weeks old and ongoing, 2 times a day at and Obviously you can adjust these times to take into account when you get out of bed and to fit around your life. Also… The first few nights have the crate or exercise pen your puppy sleeps in placed in your bedroom. One night move the crate next to the bedroom door. The next night move it outside the door, but leave the door open so they can still see you. The next night further into the hallway. Finally to their eventual resting place. They might take to sleeping on their own OK, they might whine and cry. NEVER go to them to comfort them if they cry, you must only get up to take them to potty and then silently and without fuss put them back into the crate. Rewarding silence and ignoring noise is the only way they will eventually learn to be quiet at night themselves. Any time you cannot closely supervise them, you have to confine them, either in their crate, an exercise pen or a puppy proofed room secured with a barrier across the doorway. The point of confining them as a puppy is so they can enjoy all the freedom in the world once they are an adult. By confining them with treat dispensing chew toys they get rewarded for chewing the right things and develop a chew toy obsession. Confine them now, they form a good chew toy obsession and have no chance of developing bad chewing habits. Then once they are over their adolescent chewing stage you slowly open up the house to them and eventually they can have free roam and be completely trusted. A little sacrifice when young for a better life later. And a second hugely important reason for confining your puppy when you cannot supervise them is for speedier house training. In fact if you read my comments from earlier, you will see you start the very first moment you finish the journey home. In essence, house training is about creating good habits while avoiding bad ones and for the speediest success you want to start immediately. Wherever your puppy is able to potty has the chance of becoming their favored toilet spot for many weeks or months to come. So you want to prevent them pottying inside, and encourage them to potty outside. The main ingredients of a successful house training program are preventing mistakes and praising heavily for doing the right thing. Achieving this is all about schedules, supervision and confinement. Now, your puppy will need to potty anywhere from every 15 to 45 minutes. So to start with, take them outside every 30 minutes and adjust this schedule to suit their natural rhythm. You must also take them outside immediately after they wake up from any sleep, after any eating or drinking, after play and after any heightened excitement. These are times that often lead to a puppy needing to potty so take them outside at these times and you will avoid many mistakes while taking advantage of predictable opportunities to praise them for doing the right thing. In the first week or so, you will likely find your puppy almost instantaneously leaks with little warning. Simply do your best to take them out to potty extremely often so they go in the right place as often as possible. And confine them to a single enclosed room or in an exercise pen for the first week or so to protect your carpets. Crate training goes hand in hand with house training, being one of the best tools to help speed up the process. Therefore, you want to start crate training very early on, after just a few days of getting puppy home, and I personally aim for 9 weeks old to start. I prefer to wait a week or so to avoid them pottying in the crate as much as possible, doing the most I can to preserve their instinct not to soil where they sleep, the instinct that helps most when using a crate for house training. But by all means sleep them in their crate at night if you wish and I do. For more information on crate training your puppy and using it for house training purposes, please see the links below:. Vet bedding fleece on a roll is ideal puppy bedding. You can line both his bed and his car crate with this. Buy several pieces so that you can pop one in the washing machine when it gets dirty or if he has an accident. There are lots of lovely beds you can get to go around the house, but in those first days veterinary bedding is an essential alternative to keep his crate cosy and clean. Puppy Toys For Labradors Puppy toys need to be sturdy. Many puppies destroy soft toys quite quickly though they are so adorable, you may not be able to resist buying one or two. Kongs and rope toys are very tough and seem to survive the onslaught of puppy teeth. A Radio If you intend your puppy to sleep alone in the kitchen from the first night, you may find it helpful to leave a radio next to his crate. Just a simple, cheap Portable Radio with the volume turned down low can serve the same role as some human company. It just helps him feel less along during those first few nights when he may be feeling very homesick. Puppy Harness There is no rush for this, but once your puppy is too heavy to carry, and going out and about on the ground, he needs some kind of safety restraint. These days I usually recommend a harness as they avoid pulling on the puppies neck. The kind where the lead attaches at the front and on the back are ideal. You can find an expert review of the big brands of harnesses, from a professional trainer here. When he is older and has learned to walk next to you, you can buy him a collar. To let your puppy know when he has done something you like. It is a really useful tool to help you teach your puppy to be quiet, and to learn simple skills. It will make training your puppy much quicker, easier and a lot more fun. Getting a recall to whistle established at an early age gets your puppy training off to a great start. I recommend the Acme Dog Whistle. There is plenty of information on the use and choice of dog whistles in this article: Should you buy a dog whistle .It will help to get you off to a great start with your new puppy. Rachael Ray Nutrish is another brand I love for Labrador Retriever puppies as it is packed with DHA for healthy brain and eye development and specially formulated for young, growing dogs. You can also select different sizes and recipes. My favorite is chicken and brown rice. Bedding And Toys Lab puppies need quality bedding and toys for teething. Labrador puppies grow quickly and have sharp claws and teeth. Puppies also go through a teething phase and will need special teething toys to help soothe their sore mouths and help keep your furniture safe. As far as bedding, the best bedding for a Labrador puppy is going to be made of high quality material that is soft and plush while also being sturdy enough to keep them off the floor and support their growing bodies. KONG toys are wonderful tools to use during crate training , but they also help with separation anxiety , boredom, and the teething stage that all puppies go through. Enter the Nylabone Puppy Starter Pack. These flavored chew toys come both textured and regular to help get your pup and your furniture through the teething stage safely. Cuddly toys like the Smart PetLove Snuggle Puppy Behavioral Aid Toy above can help your new Labrador puppy adjust to sleeping on his own, assist in crate training, and may even help alleviate anxieties including noise phobias and separation anxiety. Puppy blankets are a must and can be used for multiple purposes in your home for your pup. My favorite puppy blankets are blankets that are specially made for dogs, like the Luciphia fleece blankets above. While you can use any blankets on hand, blankets that are specially made for dogs are usually a bit more durable, easier to wash, and have been made with quality and safe material for your pooch. Puppy blankets just make it easy to always a comfy place for your puppy to rest his head no matter where you are. Ultra Squeaker Ball is an absolute favorite in my house and with my clients. I especially love using this toy for puppies who are just getting the hang of playing fetch. For puppies, picking up on how to play fetch can be tough. Balls that squeak or make noise when thrown help to make the game more exciting and help encourage young pups to chase whatever is making that high pitched sound! Leashes, Harnesses, and Collars Collars, leashes, and harnesses are important tools to help socialize your puppy. Getting your puppy used to wearing a leash, harness, and collar is an important step towards socializing them. So even though your Labrador puppy will outgrow his harness and collar quickly, I still suggest investing in these items. Here are five of my favorite leash, harness, and collar products for Labrador Retriever puppies. As I mentioned above, puppies are especially fragile so steer clear of attaching a leash to their collar and try to help them adjust to wearing a harness that is comfortable. What I like about this harness is that it is adjustable so you can use it a bit longer as your puppy grows. Best of all it is the perfect length five feet for puppy training and is a leash your Lab puppy can take with him into adulthood. It is built like a standard leash, but it offers you control over how far away your puppy can get. This is excellent for puppy parents who live in busy neighborhoods or who are working with a puppy who likes to wander. Large breed puppies like Labrador Retrievers require crates that grow with them. This is why I love crates that come with dividers so that they can grow with your Lab puppy. I also recommend playpens, as Labrador puppies are notorious for being very active and energetic. Lab puppies are also incredibly curious and tend to chew a lot in their first few months, which is why indoor dog gates will also be an important part of puppy proofing your home. Take a look at some of my favorite puppy-proofing products below. Nobody likes cleaning up potty accidents. Of course, no one wants a big, bulky pen that takes up half of their home either! I also love that the pen is big enough for puppies to grow into and allows them to learn how to explore a space larger than their crate while keeping them and your home safe from their curiosity. And since crate training is such an important part of puppyhood and actually helps your puppy adjust to being alone and feeling secure, we recommend investing in a good, high quality crate you can use for years. It has two separate doors for entrance and exit and it comes with a divider so it can be adjusted to the size of your dog as he grows. Just remember to leave your pup inside his crate with a KONG and some bedding so he is comfortable, and remember that puppies who are younger than six months old should not stay in their crates for longer than four hours. For those of you who plan to leave your puppy out and about while you are gone and after he is trained, of course , then a crate that folds may be your best bet. The MidWest Foldable Dog Crate posted above is one such crate that is not only made well, but also stores well. Like most crates ideal for Labrador puppies, this crate also comes with a divider so it can grow with your dog. Along with crates and puppy playpens, you also might consider getting a gate to keep your puppy from entering places in your home that may pose a risk to him. Many of my clients keep gates up in their kitchen entryway, or gate their living rooms where puppies are tempted to chew on wood furniture. Richell Wood Freestanding Pet Gate Sale Buy on Amazon For those of you worried about installing something or accidentally damaging walls or paint, there are always free-standing gate options, like the Richell Wood Freestanding Pet Gate. I do like the way these gates look and the simplicity of them, however, they are not always the most secure and may not stand up to a strong and curious puppy. These gates are also not ideal for leaving puppies unsupervised as they can sometimes find ways to knock them down. Grooming your Labrador puppy early on not only helps to socialize him and prepare him for a life of vet visits, groomer visits, and physical contact with people, but it also helps to keep him clean and healthy. Like babies, puppies are more sensitive to certain products and require products that are specifically designed to be gentle on their sensitive skin and fur. Be selective of the shampoos, dog brushes , and other grooming products you pick for your Labrador puppy and make sure you always use high-quality products. Some of the products I recommend most for grooming a Labrador puppy are listed below. Pet Care Sciences Puppy Shampoo. Non-slip bottom dog dishes Puppies naturally move their dish around as they are eating, especially if the dish has a flat bottom that easily pushes around the floor. We have found that dishes with a non-slip bottom can help so that your puppy is not chasing around his food dish. Make sure that it is large enough. And since dogs grow fast, that means they will likely grow to that size within a year to a year and a half. Almost all dogs we train eat between 4 -6 cups of dog food a day. So, make sure that your dish is large enough to accommodate this many cups. Water dish It is vitally important that your puppy have access to clean water for drinking. With the puppies we raise, we have found that it can be challenging to keep a small water dish full, so we prefer to use these 2-gallon water dishes. They are easy to fill and allow us to only have to fill them a couple times a week instead of several times a day. We suggest that you introduce a lead to your puppy as they start to grow in confidence and walk further from you when outside. There are two great reasons to do this early on. First it teaches your puppy how to handle the pressure of not being able to go wherever they want whenever they want. And it keeps your puppy from developing a habit of running away from you. A Flexi-lead works especially well if you want to give your puppy a little more freedom to go do his potty business but still keep control. Toys Puppies need toys. If you do not give them toys that they CAN chew and play with, they will chew on your sofa leg, or a book or a blanket or anything else they can find. So, purchase some good durable puppy chew toys. But watch your pup carefully. As they get older and stronger, they will be able to rip apart cloth toys and ingest them. Or they will chew rubber toys into small pieces and eat them. When your pup gets strong enough to destroy toys, it is time to take away the puppy toys and give them only dog toys designed for older , larger dogs or quality rawhides that they can chew that will not cause digestive problems. Stay away from rope toys. Many puppies have managed to ingest strings and ropes requiring surgery to remove them. Puppy-sized bumper If your plan is for your Labrador puppy to become a hunting or competition dog, you should have a puppy sized bumper. Learn more about teaching your puppy to fetch in this post. Barriers I recommend that you section off a small portion of your home and not let your puppy have full run of the entire house. Learn more about housebreaking your Lab puppy in this post. To section off a part, it can be helpful to have some child-gates available or an area of your home that you can close doors. This means that you need to show your puppy where the boundaries are and what is and is not allowed. To do this, you will need a few more tools. This is often when we see dogs that are running away from their owners, playing keep-a-way when retrieving and just basically being naughty. A lot of this could be avoided with the use of a check cord. Yes, a check cord can be cumbersome and often a pain to use, but it only takes one or two times of your puppy running away from you to make it worth it. Put a check cord on your puppy and allow them to drag it around with them. This alone is a great lesson for a dog. Dragging the weight is a type of pressure that they will need to learn to deal with. Occasionally, step on the rope and allow your dog to feel the pressure of being stopped and controlled. These sound like such minor things, but you would be surprised how much more well-adjusted your puppy will be just from learning these minor lessons. Chain or prong collar As your puppy gets stronger, it will get more and more difficult to control your puppy with a lead just hooked up to a nylon collar. As you notice that your puppy is getting harder to control, is pulling you around or dragging you down the street, you need to move to a chain or prong collar. Actually, it would be best if you changed to a chain or prong collar long before this becomes an issue. Remember, it is always easier to fix problems when they are small rather than waiting for them to become huge problems. Larger bumpers for retrieving dogs As your dog gets larger, you will want to move away from the puppy bumper and start using regular sized retrieving bumpers. We prefer to use plastic or rubber bumpers since they do not get as dirty or smelly as the canvas ones. They also last a lot longer and can be used for both water and land retrieves. Learn all about the different bumpers used for training hunting dogs here. Orange is a color that is difficult for retrievers to see, so that color should not be used for young dogs that are just learning about retrieving and hunting. Save the orange ones for advanced dogs working on blind retrieves. Final thoughts on What do I need to buy for a Lab puppy? There are many things that you will need for your new puppy both now and in the future. Take some time to prepare before you bring your puppy home so that you will avoid buying things on impulse that you may or may not need. If you are planning on using your puppy as a hunting or competition dog, check out 6 vital tools every gun dog trainer needs. You can email me at ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time happy retrieving. What do I need to buy for a Lab puppy? The crate which we suggest is foldable which makes it extra convenient. Dogs are naturally den animals and a crate provides them with a place where they can relax and feel safe. Crate training and choosing the right size Crate training makes toilet training a million times easier, and keeps your puppy safe at night whilst the family is asleep. The best puppy crate is one which is big enough for them to stand up, stretch out, turn around and lie down in. But no bigger. Or by buying an adult sized crate which comes with a divider, to allow you to provide the correct amount of space for your growing puppy. Bedding You will of course also need bedding to line the crate. This fake fleecy fur bedding comes in a roll and you can either buy a piece to fit your crate or cut to it to size yourself. For puppies, you should avoid any dog bed with a fancy liner and a stuffed or padded interior. Your pup will probably rip it open and eat the contents in no time. Check out our indestructible dog bed article for some great inspiration. Food is obviously the most important item on your new puppy supplies list. Puppy Food To start with, your new pup will need to eat three to four times a day. Having a supply of the new brand ready will allow you to make this changeover from the old food to the new, before the old runs out. The best puppy food is one which is low in carbohydrates and high in protein. Puppy Bowls Next up on the new puppy supplies list are their food and water bowls. Most of them are dishwasher safe, and cheap to buy. You can have a couple in the cupboard, making it easy to keep the food bowl shiny and clean between meals. The downside of the usual stainless steel food bowls is that they can tip over, not to mention the horrendous noise as the puppy chases them around the kitchen! To avoid these disadvantages, find a non-slip version with a steadier bottom. Those designed for use by dogs and puppies. Ceramic water bowls help to keep the water cool as well. The best part of getting a new pup is the fun you have playing with them — and for this puppy toys are real Labrador essentials! Between 12 to 24 weeks your pup will be losing their baby teeth and their new teeth will be emerging. This is a very uncomfortable time for you pup — the reason why they chew everything in their path. You can protect your shoes, furniture , and even cables, by making sure that they have plenty of toys to chew instead. Puppy toys are fun to buy, and there are a lot of choices out there. We have a couple of real firm favorites when it comes to puppy toys. Puppy kongs are brilliant. Kongs bounce around and can be played with if your pup feels like it, or picked up and carried around. Just make sure that the rope is thick and not easily shredded. Be sure to avoid small toys, or those with small parts that can be chewed off, that your pup can swallow. They can cause choking or blockages in their bellies. Besides being too small, the toys in your puppy supplies should also not be too big. They should be able to get their mouths around their toys easily. Having to stretch to chew on or pick up toys or bones that are too big can injure their growing jaws. Collar and leash You should introduce your pup to their dog collar and leash as soon as possible. They can get used to wearing their collar in the house from a young age, before going outside for walks. It has a convenient quick release buckle as well as an ID tag. Dog harnesses, instead of collars, are becoming increasingly popular among dog lovers. Always use a harness for a dog that has problems breathing. It also has a thick padded handle to protect your hands. A pup might still squirm and try to get away. Then you can start brushing again. Letting your pup inspect and sniff the brush also helps them to get over any fear. This specialised pet brush has fine bent wires that gets rid of mats without hurting. Amongst the most useful Lab puppy essentials on our new puppy checklist are puppy barriers. There are a few options for creating barriers, to keep your pup safe and give them some space when they need a break. The most popular puppy barriers are actually baby gates. They make fantastic human toddler and puppy barriers — you might even use them to separate the two. They come in a few different sizes, and fit into most doorways or hallway spaces. The human members of the family can easily come and go, whilst keeping the puppy securely contained. You can start using it with your pup from a very young age. Combined with treats, they let the pup know exactly when you approve of their behavior. Their use is rapidly increasing in popularity. Using positive reinforcement training and working with a clicker will help you to both train your puppy, and to form a stronger bond and better relationship together as he grows. Almost last but not least on our new puppy checklist is puppy insurance. There have been astonishing advances in the veterinary treatments that are available for our pets today. Most things you can be treated for, your dog can be treated for too. Open heart surgery, complex hip operations, and advanced cancer treatments are all available to dogs. Read The Small Print And do read the small print before you buy, some of the cheaper policies will dump you at the end of the year if your dog gets a long term condition. I did not read the small print and this happened to me. So take care to choose a policy that keeps on renewing as long as you keep on paying. Many dog owners would recommend the final Labrador puppy accessory on our new puppy checklist as the most essential. Covering everything from the first days at home, through crate training, potty training, dealing with teething and much more. Do you have any tips for our readers? Are there other items that you wish you had bought before your Labrador puppy arrived and would add to our puppy supplies list? Why not share your thoughts in the comments section below. However, we selected them for inclusion independently, and all of the views expressed in this article are our own. These sprays are safe for your dog, and the bitter taste discourages chewing. In many cases, chewing can be kept under control with training, positive reinforcement, and mental and physical stimulation. However, some puppies and dogs will try to chew no matter what, making these products quite useful. Conclusion The list of products that could be useful to your life with a Labrador could go on all day, but these products are some of the most important. Keep in mind that any new pet needs a checkup with your veterinarian to verify they are healthy and up to date on things like vaccines, heartworm testing, and dewormers. One pet supply that you may not have thought of is pet insurance. With a balanced, personalized plan like Spot Pet Insurance offers, you may be able to manage your pet's vet costs and avoid surprises. A Canadian expat, Nicole now lives on a lush forest property with her Kiwi husband and new baby daughter in New Zealand. She has a strong love for all animals of all shapes and sizes and particularly loves a good interspecies friendship and wants to share her animal knowledge and other experts' knowledge with pet lovers across the globe.Read more Advertisement.

All dogs are unique and grow at their own rate. Pro Tip: Check out our complete guide to puppy care to ensure your Lab gets off to a great start. As a medium to large breed, Labrador Retrievers need at least one year to reach their full size. A general rule of thumb suggests your Lab should be at or close to its full size by their first birthday. However, bigger-boned Lab puppies can keep growing and filling out their chest up to 18 months old. How big should a 6-month-old Labrador Retriever be? The average Lab weight at six months old is about 40 to 55 pounds for males or 30 to 35 pounds for females. Please keep in mind that these numbers are averages, and every puppy will grow at a slightly different rate. How much bigger will my Labrador Retriever get? There are three ways to predict the size of a Labrador Retriever at maturity: Age. Labrador Retrievers typically reach their full height and weight around their first birthday. Larger Labs may need up to 18 months to fill out their chest, but any weight gain after 12 months should be minimal overall. If your Lab is less than a year old, they are likely still growing and putting on muscle to reach their adult size. Paw Size. If their paws look oversized next to their legs and body, then they are probably still growing, as this is a classic puppy feature. Lastly, if you purchased your Lab through a breeder, you can contact them for a more exact height and weight estimate. What is the size of a full-grown Labrador Retriever? A full-grown Labrador Retriever weighs between 65 and 80 pounds and stands about .The average weight of a full-grown female Labrador Retriever should be about 55 to 70 pounds, standing at .Make sure to consult with your veterinarian to ensure that your Lab is maintaining a healthy weight for its body size. The Labrador Retriever growth rate should be indicative of its athletic body and muscular build. Did you know. ? Their webbed paws made them strong swimmers, along with their otter tail, which acts like a powerful rudder when retrieving ducks. English nobles spotted the dogs and brought them home across the Atlantic, where breeders continued to refine the breed into its own variation. Between their friendly demeanor, adaptability, and outgoing disposition, they make ideal family members. As cherished members of our families, Labs deserve the best care. Unfortunately, like many other purebred dogs, Labrador Retrievers are more susceptible to various health issues. Some of the most common examples include:. Between 8 weeks and 10 months, your puppy has a ton of growing to do, and they change drastically from month to month. Each stage of growth requires specific attention, exercise, and diet, so there is much to learn and pay attention to these different growth stages. There may be behavioral challenges while your pup adjusts to their new life without their mother and siblings. This period of adjustment can sometimes lead to fearful and timid behavior, and your puppy will need as much attention and affection as possible. They should be eating 3—4 small meals a day at this stage. You can begin basic command, leash, and potty training at this point too. Although the schedule is not complete this is a critical period to begin socialization and making sure they are calm and friendly with other dogs, just make sure they are also vaccinated. We highly recommend making training a part of their daily activities at this age. Biting can be an issue at this stage too, as they will begin teething, and they will start exploring and chewing whatever they can find. Chew toys and consistent command reinforcement are both vital for avoiding this behavior. The good news is that your puppy will grow out of this habit at around 6 months old. Your lab should also be house-trained by this point, but there may still be the occasional accident. Remember to be gentle but firm when this happens, and your pooch will likely move through it swiftly. They will begin losing their baby teeth at this point, and biting and chewing may reach its peak. Firm but gentle commands, chew toys, and loads of patience are essential at this stage. Your puppy will be testing the limits and may start showing dominance, ignoring known commands, and asserting more independence. You can now drop their meals down to two meals per day, but be sure that they are not eating too quickly. Your puppy will start to closely resemble an adult at 6 months, but remember that mentally, they are still puppies and will need loads of direction and training. Females may enter their first heat at 6—7 months, so keep a careful watch for stray males. They will still display puppy tendencies and traits and have a ton of excitable energy, but they should be fairly obedient and well-trained by this stage. Be sure to give your Labrador plenty of exercise at this stage to help keep them from misbehavior. They will have reached their full height by now but may still gain weight and muscle mass in the coming months. Unless you intend on breeding, you should consider neutering and spaying your puppy to avoid wandering and unwanted pregnancies. While some breeders recommend that you wait until a year old, this is a perfectly suitable time to perform the procedure. They may still gain weight and muscle mass but much slower than during the past few months. They will still display puppy characteristics and even test boundaries, but all in all, they should be obedient and well-trained by now. They will have a ton of energy and still enjoy playtimes and loads of exercise. While they are at their full height at this age, some Labs may appear lanky and still have weight to fill out in the coming months. When Do Labradors Stop Growing? All dogs are unique, and the question of when they stop growing is largely dependent on the individual. Anecdotally, your Lab should have reached their full weight by 18 months and full height by 9—12 months. Most breeders agree that your Lab will stop growing at some point during their second year. Even so, any weight gain during their second year will be minimal, and they will have done the majority of their growth by their first birthday. Mentally, they are out of the puppyhood phase of testing boundaries and disobedience by their first year— if correctly trained. If you have been consistent in training thus far, your Lab should be friendly, obedient, and well-behaved from their first birthday and into adulthood. In males, neutering can sometimes result in a calmer, more relaxed dog, and this, in turn, will slow down his need for exercise and may result in weight gain. A study in showed that dogs neutered before 37 weeks may gain more weight, while dogs that had the procedure after 37 weeks had a slower growth trajectory. The difference was minimal, though, and there is no reason to assume that these procedures have much of an effect on growth rates in dogs. Dangers of Growing Too Quickly or Stunted Growth While some puppies may grow quicker or slower than the agreed-upon average, this is usually nothing to be concerned about due to the individual and unique nature of dogs. However, if your pooch is gaining weight rapidly or not gaining enough, there may be deeper issues to look into. If your dog is from working or hunting stock, they may be smaller than average Labs and are usually lighter for work in the field. Size may also be genetic, and if your Lab comes from small parents, they will be smaller than average. The same may be true of heavier-than-average Labs—if their parents are large, they will likely be similar in size. However, larger-than-average weights may also be due to overfeeding or a lack of exercise , or a combination of both, so be sure to keep their exercise and feeding habits consistent. Image Credit: rebeccaashworth, Shutterstock Growth Distinctions of Different Labradors Although they are designated under the same breed, there are two different types of common Labradors: English and American. English Labradors tend to be stockier and more muscular than their American counterparts and have a thick, waterproof coat , while American Labs have a slender build with a slightly finer coat. English Labs are slightly shorter, topping out at around 22 inches, but their stocky and muscular build often makes them heavier than American Labs. In fact, English Labs have been known to weigh up to 20 pounds more than American Labs without being considered overweight. American Labs are known to be slightly more active and energetic than English Labs, while English Labs tend to be less excitable and more laid back. English Labs are by no means lazy, though, and they still have plenty of energy and stamina to go around. Conclusion: Monthly Labrador Growth Pictures Hopefully, this guide has helped you understand the growth rate of your Labrador puppy and given you a better idea of what to expect during the different stages. See also:. How do you teach an older dog and which strategies should you start with? Work on Socialization Socialization is a catch-all solution that can offset almost every other training gap. Fortunately, Labradors are gentle mini-giants and are naturally interested in socializing. As long as they get safe, gradual, and positive social exposure to your friends, their dogs, and dogs at a dog park, they will be well-assimilated into the good dog norms. A few ways to train your Labrador to be social are as follows: Grant Gradual Exposure Labrador puppies can get overwhelmed with social stimuli, so it is crucial to start gradually exposing them to the external environment, other people, and dogs. If a Labrador is 1 year old and has not yet received social training, you have to treat him just like a puppy and be even more patient. It might take a few weeks longer to offset his interest in isolation. Treat Him for Being a Participant You should give your dog a treat for simply seeing another dog and not losing his mind. This is a form of counterconditioning , which we will discuss later in this post. Take Him on Walks This goes without saying because Labradors need exercise. Switching routes to ones with more people can help him see human presence as normal. Supervise Doggy Dates Finally, you can start arranging safe doggy dates. Having your friends come over with their dogs and letting both the pets see each other from a distance can be enough of a first date. How to Stop Barking. By the time you see the torn couch, your dog has forgotten about the action. If you punish him, he will be more confused than educated. Positive feedback requires more patience but works. Here are some tips to train a 1-year-old Lab with rewards. Set up conditions for his success — If he tears up the couch, introduce a chew toy and keep him out of the room with fragile furniture. Reward success — Give him treats for being silent when he notices another dog. Gradually raise obstacles — You can gradually start bringing distractions and discipline-testing fixtures into his periphery. Keep rewarding him for overcoming obstacles — Even though you set him up for success, you want to keep him well-rewarded for keeping up his good habits. Emulate real-life difficulty — Eventually, you want the obstacles to mimic real life. This means having the same proximity with other dogs, dealing with as much distraction as a real-life scenario, and behaving just as well as you want him to behave outside. Reward him for overcoming it — Finally, you should reward your Lab for keeping up with the obstacles and getting disciplined enough to behave according to expectations in real-life scenarios. Nonetheless, no Labrador is too old to be guided by the power of rewards and patience. You just need to add extra weeks to even the most basic commands. Wait till the Labrador is doing something — This could be any action like sitting or running. You can also create a context where the dog is in a specific position out of necessity used for heel and similar commands. Use a word that describes the action — This is the command you want to associate with the action. Give the dog a reward for the action until he associates it with the word — When a Lab is 12 months old, he takes longer to understand the concept of commands. You need to keep using your command when he is engaging in an action much longer before you can use the word to trigger said action. Say the word and wait for the Labrador to start acting — When you try out the command, and your Labrador follows through, you should give him a treat. Do you want to learn all the commands to teach your Lab? Be Consistent, Positive, and Patient Consistency is the key to helping an older Lab understand and follow commands. Any unnatural breaks in routine, change of pace, or moodiness in command preference can confuse the Labrador. It is advisable to assume the 1-year-old Lab will take three times longer than a puppy to learn the same command. This is not precise math, but it does set reasonable expectations, helping you stay positive and patient through the relatively slow learning process. As mentioned earlier, teaching a 1-year-old Lab to learn is easier than making him unlearn old habits. Counterconditioning is a concept of pairing different results with situations where your dog reacts negatively. Counterconditioning entails giving your dog a treat when the delivery van pulls up. This associates reward with the situation and can get him to calm down. In the case of a delivery guy, if he the dog and not the delivery guy starts barking, rewarding him will associate the barking with the treat, which can strengthen the habit. For example, in this recent study of treatments for firework fears in dogs , counterconditioning was the most effective, with relaxation training coming a close second. Counterconditioning your 1-year-old Labrador is most effective when combined with desensitization, which brings me to the next section. To desensitize your Labrador, you need to reduce the average stimulus like noise to the point where the dog can bear it. Then, you should gradually increase the intensity of exposure volume in case of sound, proximity in case of a physical entity while rewarding the Lab for not reacting. If you do this long enough, your Labrador will get desensitized to everyday stimuli. Use Punishment Appropriately Punishing might seem like a shortcut because the human mind projects itself onto other mammals like dogs. For a punishment to be effective, it must not be harmful to the dog, must be for a clear reason that even the Labrador can see, and must be used sparingly. Some kind and ethical punishments for dogs include: Grounding — This is the easier punishment to deliver without going overboard. Grounding the dog should follow a clear cause-and-effect chain. Keep time-outs short, just a couple of minutes will do the trick. Scolding followed by silent treatment — Try to err on the side of silent treatment more than prolonged scolding. You should scold your Lab immediately when he is in the middle of doing something wrong and then be silent. Labradors have plenty of empathy and can pick up on when their actions affect your mood negatively. Many people make mistakes when delivering punishment. And the biggest mistake is punishing your dog for something he did over 30 minutes ago. You have to catch him in action in order for him to associate the punishment with the action. Another mistake people make when punishing a Labrador is calling him before punishing him. If you punish a dog for listening and coming close to you, he will be confused and will not trust you again. He should have positive feelings about your company. Finally, the gravest error in punishing a dog is being too harsh. This negative loop makes a poorly socialized Labrador more introverted and socially nervous. Counterconditioning Difficult Reactions As covered earlier, counterconditioning is the act of rewarding a dog for behaving differently under the same stimulus. However, some Labradors can have such a negative reaction that there is no room to reward them. It takes a lot of patience and tact to create a context where an untrained Lab will not react or behave in an undesirable way. Mitigating the Consequences of a Lack of Training While patience is required to train an older Lab, it is not the only thing needed. You also need a great deal of caution because an undisciplined Lab can attack or threaten people, act too energetically with smaller pets, and even tug at his harness trying to chase cars. While training your older Lab, you need to actively minimize the potential disasters waiting to happen. Feeding Your Labrador on Time Finally, a Labrador who has no grasp of basic commands is hard to feed. He will eat food when he sees it but getting him to understand feeding time is difficult. As long as you bet on positive reinforcement, remain patient, and counter-condition his riskiest habits first, you will have an easy time training your older Lab. Related Posts You May Like:.

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What Is a Fawn Pug? The fawn Pug is a common color variant of the Pug breed. This dog has a pale coat color that has soft cream or a faint tan shade. Fawn Pugs may also have lighter or darker fur in some areas of their body. Other than its color, the fawn Pug shares most of its traits with the rest of the Pug breed. When we chase back history, there are only a few details about the fawn color. However, it was noted that Pugs are considered an ancient breed, and it was through selective breeding wherein the fawn color was developed. These brachycephalic dog breeds were standardized by the 19th century, and the fawn fur color was generally used as a foundation in shows as it gained popularity during breeding processes globally. Generally, the fawn and black fur color of Pugs are recognized as standard by reputable kennel clubs worldwide. Fawn-colored Pugs are usually seen in dog shows and movies since they are more desired by pet lovers. These Pugs also come in different varieties, such as regular fawn Pugs, apricot fawn Pugs, and silver fawn Pugs. However, they are still the same dog breed. These color varieties are just simply to describe the tinge and fur shade. Are Fawn Pugs Rare? These non-black Pugs are the most common Pugs globally. Despite them carrying recessive genes, fawn Pug puppies are about two-thirds of the Pug population. However, a particular fawn Pug variety, the silver fawn Pug, is pretty rare. They are much lighter than the regular and apricot fawn Pugs. A fawn Pug is a small breed dog with a pale tan coat color or slightly yellowish and very light cream. They also exhibit a brachycephalic head, which means that they have flat faces. Fawn-colored Pugs have wrinkled faces, a short muzzle, big prominent eyes, round heads, and non-erect ears. Their bodies are usually compact with a curly tail at the back, and their legs are short. They have masks that typically cover the muzzle and chin and extend around the eyes. This marking is highly desirable in dog shows, especially darker ones. Moreover, they have a darker brown sheen or black hairs on their backs called trace. It predominantly starts at the back of the neck down to the base of the tail. However, the trace may fade away as the fawn puppy matures. In addition, there may be slight differences between male and female Pugs. However, both genders grow to about 10 to 14 inches tall and weigh between 13 and 20 pounds. Although fawn Pug puppies already came from a tiny breed, their size and weight should not be confused with teacup Pugs that are not pedigree dogs. As mentioned above, these Pugs have varieties that have silver or apricot tones. Some kennels consider them under fawn-colored dogs, while others separate them as apricot Pugs or silver Pugs since fawn is a broad term. Pugs with apricot fawn coats have a medium cream appearance that is darker than that of a regular fawn Pug. Silver fawn Pugs have the lightest shade, and they usually appear as extremely pale silver tinge coats. They may have markings such as masks on their faces, but each purebred Pug will have unique placements of these marks. Most Pugs are also not uniformly solid in color. Some may have lighter or dark coat hues. Other rare Pug colors that are not fawn are brindle Pugs, panda Pugs, and chocolate Pugs. However, we will discuss those in other articles. A Pug puppy gets one color gene from each of its parents. Combining these two color genes will determine the coat color of the litter. A reputable breeder usually does DNA testing to achieve the desired fur color. That means the parent should be both fawn Pugs, or the black Pug being bred to the fawn Pug should carry the recessive genes for fawn Pug litter to be produced. This happens because black is a dominant color, meaning you only need one black gene to produce black Pugs, despite being bred to a fawn Pug. In the case of a fawn-colored Pug puppy, they either lighten or darken, especially in their first year of existence. As puppies, they may appear with a dirt-like appearance due to the black hairs intermingled with their light colored-fur. These hairs are called smuttiness, and they often fade as the pup grows. The same goes with the trace. In contrast, the masks of non-black Pugs tend to darken as puppies mature into adults. They generally follow the guidelines set by the Pug Dog Club. However, Pugs with non-standard Pug colors such as silver fawn, those with brindle coats, and apricot Pugs can still be registered in AKC but cannot compete in show rings. The Canadian Kennel Club recognizes three Pug colors — silver-fawn, fawn, or black. Aside from either fawn or black Pugs, the Kennel Club of the UK accepts four coat colors as a breed standard, including silver and apricot-colored dogs. For generations, the Pug breed has proven to be great companions and family pets. Fawn Pug puppies have docile, charming, playful, and affectionate personalities, making them loved by most dog lovers. An essential thing to consider is that a fawn Pug does not tolerate being left alone for long periods and is highly attached to its owners. So if you want a clingy buddy, a fawn Pug puppy is perfect for you. They are great with children and other pets, including cats. However, they still need to be socialized early to know how to behave appropriately. These fawn puppies are intelligent purebred Pugs that respond well to training and positive reinforcement. However, you may need to stand your ground at times since most Pugs are stubborn. Furthermore, they tend to be energetic, so as Pug owners, you should give them about 30 minutes of exercise to shake off stored energies and avoid destructive behavior. It is important to note that coat colors do not affect the temperament of your Pug. Female Pug: Which Is Better? The lifespan of a fawn Pug is between 11 and 14 years. They are a brachycephalic breed which makes them prone to several health problems. This makes them at risk of developing respiratory problems like laryngeal collapse and hypoplastic trachea. This can cause neurological issues, pain, weakness, and loss of bladder control. However, this can be managed by rest and anti-inflammatory medicines. Heat Stroke: Pug dogs are affected mainly by heat strokes due to their tight coats. They are sensitive to changes in temperature and do not do well in hot climates. Keeping them indoors during summer can help avoid this condition as it can be life-threatening. Many factors will surround the health of your puppies, such as acquiring them from a reputable breeder, diet, exercise, and genetics. Puppy Prices and Expenses Since the fawn color in Pugs is one of the standard colors, fawn Pugs are priced similarly to other Pugs. Adopting a fawn Pug puppy is a great option. This means you get to save money while giving a rescue pup a second chance at life. They will need essential items to transition and settle into a permanent home. Here is a list of initial expenses in owning a fawn Pug puppy: Type of Expense. Pug Dog Colors Overview Pugs can be found in four major colors, though not all are standard colors with certain kennel clubs. The two most common colors are fawn and black. Silver and apricot can also be seen with this breed, and while not standard colors per the AKC, these colors are indeed recognized by the FCI and other kennel clubs. Brindle Pugs do exist, though this is not without some controversy. All non-black Pugs have black masks and black ears. There are some unique color markings that can appear on Pugs which include the trace and the thumbprint, found only on non-black Pugs. This section will cover all of the details regarding Pug colors, both standard and alternate, as well as various markings and other color-related elements. But, of course, since other colors exist, an AKC Pug can be silver also known as silver-fawn , apricot also known as apricot-fawn , or even the rare and controversial brindle. If you have a Pug with a non-standard color silver-fawn, apricot, or even brindle , as of the time of this writing, if you register your Pug via postal mail not online and send in photos of your Pug that clearly shows the non-standard coat, the AKC will usually grant you a registration with the appropriate color or pattern listed as an alternate color. Though a Pug of any color can be registered, this does not mean the color is accepted in the show ring. For AKC conformation events, any color other than fawn or black is a disqualification. It should be noted that the AKC, which follows the guidelines set forth by the Pug Dog Club of America, used to accept both silver and apricot-fawn. If you are in the US, where most Pugs are either fawn or black, keep in mind that owners from 27 countries took part in the survey. Other well-recognized kennel clubs such as the FCI and KC make this much easier, since they accept apricot and silver coat colors in the show ring. And, the CKC allows distinction between fawn and sliver, by having 'silver-fawn' as an option. With these clubs, fawn is a light to medium cream. However, because the AKC will register a fawn as a fawn and an apricot or a silver as a fawn because they are non-black Pugs , but can also grant a registration for an apricot or silver to be as such via an alternate color, an AKC fawn Pug may truly be a fawn ranging from light cream to medium cream or technically be a silver or apricot more ahead on these colors. All non-black Pugs, including fawn, have black ears and black masks more ahead on this. Variances: Fawns are not always solid, there are variances in the coat. Many Pugs have a trace which is a stripe of back-tipped hairs running down the back that break up the fawn color. And, it is not uncommon for two shades of fawn to be seen within one coat; for example, a light cream fawn can blend into a light apricot-fawn. The wrinkles on a Pug are also responsible for color variances since a thumbprint may be present which is black fur in the creases and folds of the forehead. AKC Color Disqualification: Though fawn has a range of light to medium, the AKC does make it clear that anything other than fawn or black is a disqualification in the show ring. This refers to not only what the registration papers say but by what color is seen in person during the competition. Since there is sometimes a blurred line between silver and fawn or apricot and fawn, this can make things tricky. These colors are found all throughout the world, but in the US, show breeders focus on keeping the fawn a fawn without silver or apricot tones. Examples of Fawn Pugs: Dubi at 6 years old, a fawn Pug photo courtesy of Carmina Bautista Poppy, at 4 months old, a Pug with a combination of light and medium fawns photo courtesy of Maria Silver Fawn and Silver Overview: This is a color that is not overly common with Pugs; though, many owners of silver or silver fawn Pugs can easily be labeling their dogs as fawn, especially if that is what the registration papers state. Because, as the name implies, silver fawn is a type of fawn. It is very light and is in fact the lightest color that a Pug can be. The AKC does not recognize this as a standard color, but may grant a request for a silver-fawn Pug to be registered as such via an alternate color, and if so, generally only responds to requests that are sent via postal mail. Both the FCI and KC allow for silver and the CKC allows for silver-fawn; both are essentially the same coat color but are referred to with these different terms. With some other breeds, this sort of orange hue is referred to as fawn like with Boxers or as orange like with Pomeranians. But, with Pugs, this is a nice, shiny orange hue that is set apart from the more common fawn coat. It is very common for apricot Pugs to not be fully apricot; there may be some fawn or even an almost white color found in patches, most often on the chest. Though, just like silver or silver fawn, this is also a color that may be present in the coat, but owners refer to their Pugs as simply 'fawn', especially if that is what the registration papers deem the Pug to be. And, just like other non-standard AKC colors, an apricot Pug may be registered as a fawn or as an apricot if the owner requests for this alternate coloring to appear on the document. With the CKC, apricot is not its own color, but rather their definition of fawn includes all shades in the fawn family including light to deep apricot. Apricot Pugs have black masks and black ears. And, just like all non-black Pugs, a trace and a thumbprint are desired in the show ring of all well-recognized kennel clubs. Example of an Apricot Pug: Peggie, at 4 years old, a registered apricot Pug photo courtesy of Susi R Ludlow Black Pugs Overview: It is rather amazing how very different the two main colors of Pugs are; fawn is a very light cream with black ears and mask, and black Pugs are just about the complete opposite with a rich, dark black coat. Of course, the ears and mask are black too, but there is no discernible difference since the entire Pug is black. Many black Pugs have solid coats, but it is possible for there to be a small white marking; if this is present, it is usually on the chest. As Pugs age into their senior years, gray hairs may appear on the face or in different areas of the body and this is much more noticeable with black Pugs. Examples of Black Pugs: Henry, at 10 months old photo courtesy of Maxine Aird Pearl photo courtesy of Saz Race Wonder how much exercise Pugs need and how to keep activity safe for this brachycephalic breed? Check out Pug Dog Exercise. Brindle Pugs Overview: Brindle is a pattern of interlocking light and dark colors which creates a striping effect. With Pugs, this is typically in the grey to black range. This type of coat pattern is found with quite a few other dog breeds including the Bull Terrier, Boxer, and American Bulldog. The Debate: Many wonder if a purebred brindle Pug can even exist. The answer is yes. This said, there are some explanations to be given. On one hand is the argument that brindle does not exist within the Pug's bloodline. It is true that this is not a color pattern that should be seen with today's breeding programs since it is not a standard color. One of the goals of reputable breeders is to produce dogs that come as close to breed standards as possible. So, brindle is not something that most breeders would strive for and any champion dogs would not have recessive brindle genes. But, did brindle appear in the bloodline at some point in the past? The answer is, yes, it very well could have. This goes back, in part, to the fact that every single dog breed that exists to day was developed from the pairing of other breeds. As to which breeds, exactly, were used to develop the Pug is unknown. We know that this breed was developed in China. Somewhere around B. And he was indeed successful. Therefore, the first element to note is that no one can say if, looking back, brindle is or is not found in the Pug's bloodline. In fact, paintings from the 's show Pug dogs with brindle coats. This said, those brindle lines most likely died out. It has also been debated that brindle Pugs are a myth since the gene responsible for the pattern is dominant and would 'take over' the entire Pug breed with eventually only brindles existing, making fawns and black obsolete. But, that point is not accurate. Brindle exists in other breeds and does not take over. One example is the Boxer dog in which there are both brindles and fawns. So, if there are brindle Pugs, however rare, where does the brindle come from? The answer is that brindle was introduced into the bloodline via another breed at some point. For each individual Pug, this could be recent or it could be many generations in the past. This may seem contradictory. As time goes by, a random brindle is thrown every now and then. Examples of Brindle Pugs: Luna at 8 months old, a brindle Pug photo courtesy of Brenda photo courtesy of Mike Dillow Color Changes It is normal for a Pug puppy's coat to change coat color to a certain degree as he or she is maturing from pup to adolescent. With fawn Pugs, the coat may lighten or darken, predominately during the first year. It's not uncommon for there to be smuttiness at a young age which is the term for black hairs intermingled with a light color coat. This may remain, lighten, darken, or fade in other areas except for a line running down the center of the back which is known as a trace. The ears and mask may darken into a more solid black as a Pug grows. For example, here we see Yoda as a young puppy first photo below on mobile with a fawn base and lots of black hairs running through the coat referred to as smuttiness - details ahead. And, then we can see Yoda as a 3-year-old adult Pug second photo below on mobile , the fawn is much lighter and the black-tipped hairs are now a much more faded trace that runs down her back. The black mask has darkened and her head wrinkles are fully developed. There can be other color changes as well. Apricot tones may not appear until a Pug is a bit older; so, a Pug that is registered as a fawn may very well be an apricot. Another change that typically happens with black Pugs, but may also be seen on some fawns, is that hairs around the muzzle and face may gray as a Pug transitions into the senior years. If this occurs, it is generally starts around the 8 year mark and increases in time. Wondering how much sleep a Pug needs and ways to help this breed achieve a good night's rest? Check out Pug Dog Sleep. Smuttiness If you take a very closeup look at a light-colored Pug, you may see a scattering of a few black hairs over the body and this is generally not enough to classified a Pug has having smuttiness. Smuttiness on a Pug refers to a noticeable overlay of black hairs on a light coat fawn, silver, silver-fawn, apricot, or apricot-fawn. These patches of black hairs are thin enough to see the lighter hairs underneath, however it gives an overall appearance of a "haze". The more there is, either in density or coverage, the more smuttiness a Pug has. Note that black or darker hairs are desired in certain places on a Pug; running down the center of the back the trace and on the forehead the thumbprint - more ahead on both of these markings. But, when there is an overabundance of these black hairs in areas other than the forehead wrinkles or the back, the term smuttiness is then used. Smuttiness may appear in just about any area on a Pug including the saddle back , flanks, legs, and head. In the show world, this is not a disqualification, however it is considered to be a fault points are deducted. Example of Smuttiness on a Pug: Winston at 11 years old; this is an example of heavy smuttiness on the head. Though not something rewarded for in the show ring, there is no denying how cute this Pug looks. In fact, this is such a heavy intermingling of black hairs that Winston almost looks like a half fawn and half black Pug dog. The trace may begin on the nape of the neck or further down the back. It will run in a predominantly straight line, ending at the base of the tail. The thickness and the density of the trace can vary. Though a trace is a very desired trait in conformation dog shows, not all non-black Pugs have this marking. A trace may be very apparent during the puppy years and then fade as a Pug matures. On the flip side, this marking may not show at all during the newborn phase and then become apparent as the Pug grows. This particular element is considered to be an official marking of the breed and is thought to give Pugs character. In the show ring, the blacker the trace, the better. That said, if your Pug does not have a trace, this is nothing to be concerned about. If, however, when Pugs are being considered for a breeding program with the goal of producing show quality dogs, those with no trace at all are often excluded since this is a heredity trait. Example of a Trace on a Pug: Do you have a Pug and are worried about leaving them home alone? Find helpful tips for Pug Dog Separation Anxiety. The Thumbprint A Pug's thumbprint, also referred to as a thumb mark or diamond, is a darkened spot centered on the forehead. This, of course, is not seen on Pugs with black coats. Though this is another desired trait when Pugs are judged in conformation events, not all non-black Pugs have a thumbprint. Another way to look at this is that approximately 3 out of 4 non-black Pugs have a thumbprint or thumb mark. Though it is sometimes called a diamond, it may resemble an oval, a circle, or be an irregular shape. While the wrinkles on the forehead can cause shading that may appear to be a thumb mark, the thumb mark is actually a splash of darker color on the fur. This type of marking is usually present at birth. It is rare for a Pug born without this to develop one as he ages. When a young pup has a small thumbprint marking, it may grow larger or become darker as a Pug ages and matures. Example of a Thumbprint on a Pug: This is Tommy, a Pug with a nice thumbprint on his deep forehead wrinkles. This is an area of black that typically starts under the chin, covers the muzzle, and extends around the eyes. Though this is the general description, the mask can vary quite a bit on Pugs. One element to take note of is that the black may be mainly on the muzzle and then again with black fur around the eyes with little connection between the two points or, quite contrary to that, black may extend from the muzzle to the eye area with no interruption at all. In addition, while a very dark black mask is desired in the conformation show ring, the black mask on some Pugs may contain any number of fawn or lighter-colored hairs. This can range from medium to dark brown and eyes can be so dark that they almost appear black. With canine breed standards, the term dark means dark brown. Coat color does not affect eye color; for example, a fawn Pug does not automatically have lighter eyes than a black Pug. You may be curious to know if Pugs can have blue eyes. Blue is not in this breed's genetic code. However, similar to humans, dogs are usually born with dark blue eyes due to low levels of melanin in the eyes. The eyes darken as melanin levels naturally increase. This transition is usually complete by week six or seven. White Paws Can a Pug have mitted, white paws? The term 'mitted' is often used with cats since it is much more common for felines to have this type of color marking. It refers to coloring that falls on the paws that is different than the main body color, as if the animal is wearing mittens. White paws on a Pug is not common at all and is considered a major fault in the show ring; however, it can happen. This Pug below has a fawn coat and white markings on the paws and on the chest. Both photos are of Mr. Mittens, at 3 months old; photos courtesy of Suzanne White markings like this are able to exist due to the parti-factor gene. This very same color gene is responsible for small white markings on the chest that are occasionally seen with Pugs of all colors. Rarely, the parti-factor is thrown to one, some, or all paws, resulting in purebred Pugs with white mitted paws. Are you taking care of your Pug's teeth? For this brachycephalic breed, dental care is very important. Learn how to keep your Pug's teeth clean and healthy. Behavior and Personality Traits Based on Color Many people wonder if there are inbred character traits that vary depending on the coat color of the Pug. As with any other breed, the coloring of the coat has no effect on energy level, personality, behavioral quirks or any other element. But, it is easy to leap to the belief that color matters in this regard. An owner may have a black Pug that is more energetic than his fawn counterpart, for example. However, there are just as many owners who have energetic fawns compared to laid back black Pugs. Each dog is an individual, and Pugs will have their own unique personalities, regardless of coat color. Differences in Coat and Shedding Most Pugs have coats consisting of two layers of fur, an inner and an outer coat. Some, but not all black Pugs are single coated. For this reason, a percentage of black coated Pugs may shed less in comparison to fawn, apricots or slivers. And, the color of your carpeting and furniture can affect how much shedding you notice. Fur that sheds from a black Pug onto light-colored surfaces is going to be much more noticeable than fur that falls from a fawn Pug. And, fur that sheds from a fawn Pug onto dark surfaces is going to be much more visible than fur that falls from a black Pug. Though it's not suggested to buy furniture and flooring that matches your Pug, this is something to keep in mind. Did you find this to be informative? See what's inside. Related: Black Pug Dogs - More photos of black Pug puppies and dogs with a recap of color information. All rights reserved. Privacy Policy We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. What Is A Fawn Pug? A fawn Pug is a particular color of the Pug dog. This breed comes in a variety of colors which can range from black, fawn, brindle, white and etc. A fawn Pug will have a light yellowish tan color coat. That being said, each dog is unique and some will have different markings and colorations such as; Silver fawn Pugs Apricot Fawn Pugs Fawn Pugs The following are the colors of the canine coat. The fawn Pug is a comical looking dog with a stout body This dog breed has several distinctive features such as short legs, compact body, wrinkles, short muzzle, and curly tail. They are a brachycephalic dog, which basically means flat-faced, like Bulldogs and Pekingese. Pugs have prominent eyes with large round heads and soft velvety ears. This dog has a funny face, which gives off a comical expression. Their unique features are what have drawn humans to Pugs for centuries. They are the biggest dogs in the toy breed category. This is a common feature among the fawn and apricot-colored dogs. Fawn vs Apricot Pug The only difference between these breeds is the color of their coat. The fawn-colored dog is a lighter shade and may have a whitish silver tint to their fur. While the apricot-colored Pug will resemble an apricot. Here is what the fawn and apricot Pug look like side by side. The biggest difference is the color of the coat Fawn Pug Breed Overview Pugs were bred to be companion dogs, which makes them great for seniors, families, and anyone looking for a pet. Their affectionate personality has made them a very popular dog throughout the decades. In fact, this is the most popular color preferred by several dog owners everywhere. Breed Origin The Pug is one of the oldest breeds. They originated in China and date back to B. Today, they are still considered companion dogs and make great lapdogs and will be happy to binge-watch Netflix shows with you. After all, you want to ensure that this dog will fit your current lifestyle. This table will give you a quick snapshot of the fawn Pug. Fawn Pug. Fawn, black. Suitable for: Families with children or other pets, apartments, houses with a yard, and people who spend a lot of time at home. Temperament: Devoted, affectionate, mischievous, stubborn, intelligent, willing to please. When you think of Pugs, the first thing you think of might be the squashed nose and big eyes, but the second is likely to be their color. Although black is a common color, fawn is the most popular variation when it comes to Pugs. There are also silver-fawn and apricot-fawn variations recognized by kennel clubs outside of the USA as part of the breed standard. Dogs that are harder to train will require a bit more patience and practice. Proper exercise, nutrition, and hygiene also play an important role in the lifespan of your pet. More social dogs have a tendency to run up to strangers for pets and scratches, while less social dogs shy away and are more cautious, even potentially aggressive. The Earliest Records of the Fawn Pug in History Although their appearance might make it look otherwise, the Pug is one of the oldest dog breeds in the world. They were first recorded by Confucius in B. Pugs were developed by Tibetan Buddhist monks and, like the Shih Tzu and the Pekingese, were beloved companion dogs for the Chinese imperial court. They were perfect companions for the emperor and his family. The Pug was adored for their willingness to accompany their owners everywhere and their cuddly nature. They are quintessential lap dogs and, despite how much of a closely guarded secret the breed was originally, they quickly gained popularity in Japan, Russia, and then Europe in the s. The original dogs were mostly black due to the fawn color resulting from recessive genes, but selective breeding allowed for the development of the fawn coloring. These days, fawn Pugs are the most common. Image Credit: Sue Thatcher, Shutterstock How the Fawn Pug Gained Popularity Part of the original fascination with many Chinese breeds like the Pug is the fact that they were a closely guarded secret of the imperial court. It was a rare case when a Pug would be given to an outsider, and it took a long time before anyone managed to introduce the breed to the world. Once Pugs were introduced to Holland by Dutch traders, their size and loving natures won the hearts of Europeans. As they gained a foothold in Europe and the UK, the Pug was also introduced to other places in the world. In the USA, in particular, the Pug is one of the most beloved companion breeds. Although there are rare white and albino Pugs, and black is a common favorite, fawn Pugs remain the most common. The AKC also accepts silver-fawn and apricot-fawn, but they are considered variations of the fawn coloring rather than separate colors. If you plan on entering an AKC show with your Pug, anything other than fawn or black will lead to disqualification. It was modern breeding practices that developed the much shorter, squashed faces as an attempt to make the Pug—and other short-nosed breeds—even cuter. With the number of health issues facing Pugs due to their short nose, many modern breeders are finally taking steps to breed Pugs with slightly longer snouts. Once there, they immediately gained favor as companions for the members of the royal House of Orange. While this might not have been a big change from their past as companions for the Chinese emperor and his court, it gave Pugs a chance to prove themselves worthy of being royal companions. During an invasion by Spanish troops, a Pug named Pompey alerted Prince William of Orange to the presence of Spanish soldiers at the camp. As a result, Prince William prevailed and later took the throne in England in the late s. Image Credit: Ezzolo, Shutterstock 3. The Fawn Coloring Is Recessive The fawn color might be the most well-known today, but it was only because of selective breeding practices that it came about. Since black is the dominant gene, it took careful breeding to introduce the fawn color as a standard. No matter what color your Pug is , they are one of the best companion breeds in the world. Fawn Pugs get along with children, other pets, and strangers they meet on walks. Their size also makes them great apartment dogs. They can, however, be stubborn and need firm but positive guidance during their training. You also need to consider their health issues. Most of all, they suffer from respiratory and eye issues due to their squashed faces, but their laziness and fondness of food give them a much greater risk of obesity. They also have issues with heat and humidity. Conclusion Fawn is one of the standard color variations of the Pug. Although the breed started by being isolated by the Chinese imperial court, they quickly took the world by storm in the s. If you decide to own a fawn Pug, you will have a loving companion for years. What these dogs lack in size, they more than make up for with their giant hearts. If both the parents carry the recessive SS or fawn gene, the resultant puppy would also have a fawn coat. Interestingly many pugs with a black coat may also have the recessive SS gene instead of the B gene. In a study conducted in , it was seen that over .Fawn Pug Puppy Fawn Pug Dog Fawn Colour Pug Another striking physical feature of the fawn pug is the characteristic black melanistic mask covering the face, from its chin up to the muzzle and the region surrounding its eyes. Their ears also appear black. Types of Fawn Pugs Fawn pugs do not always come in a solid coloration and may show variations, combining with other shades. Silver Fawn This is a rare coat variation of the fawn, with silver fawn dogs sometimes registered as fawns. The color is one shade lighter than the regular fawn shade, with a grayish sheen seen on the coat. Some silver fawn dogs could display an amalgamation of too many colors, like a mix of gray with reddish-gold or light and deep apricot. The Canadian Kennel Club also recognizes the silver fawn shade as the standard breed color alongside the regular fawn. Apricot Fawn The apricot fawn pugs have an orange undertone, with light fawn or white shades covering the coat. Like the silver fawn variant, the apricot fawn is also mostly registered as a fawn. Blue-fawn This is the rarest combination indeed and perhaps could result from recessive gene, where the black coat gets diluted to a bluish coloration. A blue-fawn dog that is not a common find is mostly a combination of the bluish and creamish shades. FAQs Q. How do the black and fawn pugs differ? The black pug appears all black, barring the white markings on their chest and paw, while the fawn pug has a black mask and black ears. The black variant also sheds less due to its single coat, while the fawn counterparts are comparatively higher shedders as they have a double coat. Can a black pug be bred with a fawn pug? No, it is not recommended or acceptable, as the resultant puppies could not come off as healthy litter. Other Breeds to Explore.

Select Page Breeders directory Buying a Golden Retriever is a lifelong commitment and not an impulse decision. Have patience the average wait time for a golden retriever puppy is about 12 — 18 months. The GRCWA is unable to comment on breeders, either positively or negatively and we encourage you do your homework and gain as much knowledge of the breed as you can before making a decision. The worst place to get a puppy is a pet shop and irresponsible non-ANKC registered backyard breeders. Buying from a pet shop or a non-ANKC breeder perpetuates the inhumane practices of puppy mills as well as pet overpopulation and is detrimental to the health and welfare of the Golden Retriever. The fact that these breeders are listed here is by no means a recommendation by the GRCWA for any of the breeders or their line of dogs. Any person considering purchasing dogs or puppies from these breeders should make their own enquiries and form their own opinions. These breeders have passed an education course, have signed and acknowledged the clubs Code of Ethics, they uphold these Code of Ethics and follow all health and other recommended breeding practices. A good breeder has more than ANKC registration. A conscientious breeder will be able to provide evidence of health testing if the parents of the puppies along with the ANKC pedigree papers. The best source of a healthy, well-socialised puppy is a conscientious ANKC breeder with a long-term commitment to the breed and a reputation to uphold. Printing out a checklist for each breeder enables you to keep a detailed record of each breeder as things tend to mix together after talking to a few different breeders. Availability of puppies and conditions of sale are at the sole discretion of the individual breeder. Advice before making contact Tips and advice when contacting a breeder While we make every effort to ensure that the breeders listed on Perfect Pets are registered, responsible, and maintain high ethical standards, please take 5 minutes to read the advice below and also see our detailed information on finding a reputable breeder. Our recommendation is that you purchase pets locally and in person. For many reasons, it is always preferable that you meet and get to know the breeder and vice versa. While many reputable breeders send animals interstate safely and without issue, we do not encourage this. When you contact a breeder, keep in mind that responsible breeders will want some information about things like - the type of home you will offer, how much time you have for your new pet, if you have experience with the breed and if not, if you've researched the breed. Responsible breeders don't want to receive emails and messages that simply ask 'how much for a puppy? Please make sure the breed you are interested in suits your family and lifestyle, and that you can give it the type of home it needs to be happy. Above all - use common sense and don't be impulsive. Please ask the breeder these important questions: 1. Can you meet the mother and father, and how old are they? Have the mother and father had any health issues? What health checks and tests were done on the parents and grandparents, are they appropriate for the breed, and can this be verified with documentation? Specifically, what vaccines have been given? Are they microchipped and registered? Have they been treated for parasites fleas and worms , and what treatments were used? Have they been checked by a vet, and is there evidence of this? How much socialisation has the puppy or kitten had? If answered positively and appropriately the answers to these questions should reassure you that the puppy or kitten you're interested in will grow to be a happy healthy animal. Please note that information regarding breed specific health checks can at times be difficult to understand and interpret. Common genetic disorders are a serious and growing concern. It's not a bad idea to write down the information you've been given and seek advice from your vet for confirmation. Breed clubs are also great sources of information on health testing. A responsible and caring breeder will also want to make sure you are going to provide a loving and safe forever home, and will ask you lots of questions. They will also provide extensive advice regarding feeding, health, ongoing socialisation, and the long term needs of your pet. Please note that because Perfect Pets cannot be directly involved in interactions we cannot accept responsibility for any agreement entered into by a breeder and a pet buyer. Please follow the advice provided. Perfect Pets has no powers of enforcement and cannot guarantee the reputation of any breeder, or the soundness or suitability of the pet you choose. You must satisfy yourself that any pet you decide on is fit and healthy, and will fit with your family and lifestyle.

Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click on a link and purchase the item. This comes at no extra cost to you. Wish your golden retriever puppy would stop biting so much? Puppy nipping is one of the most frustrating things about raising a new puppy—their teeth are razor-sharp, it hurts when they bite, and they can ruin your clothes! But why do puppies bite so much? Puppies bite to learn acquired bite inhibition, or ABI. What exactly is ABI? He might leap up and bite you because you hurt him and scared him. But the important thing is this: how hard will they bite? This is where ABI comes in. So ABI is really important. Now the question is, how do they learn it? The only way for puppies to learn ABI is to bite, and bite often. The best teachers are other dogs. Next time they bite a little less hard and playtime continues. This is how they learn ABI. Obviously, it takes a lot of repetition of this scenario to happen for a puppy to learn not to bite so hard, but this is essentially how it works out. Yes, you will need to help teach your puppy ABI. You can do this two ways: Set up puppy playdates and take them to puppy kindergarten so other puppies can teach them ABI. You actually want them to bite a little bit and learn to control how hard they bite. That being said, letting them go on a biting rampage is not helping the situation, so here are five tips to help you stop your puppy from biting so much: 1. Socialize your puppy Other dogs are the best teachers of ABI so make sure to get your puppy in kindergarten and set up playdates with dogs that you know are vaccinated. Remove yourself from the situation Puppies can often be over-stimulated or over-tired. One thing we did with our puppy, Oliver, when he got in these moods was to go sit at our high-top table in the kitchen and ignore him until he calmed down or distracted himself with a chew toy. Exercise your puppy A tired puppy is a good puppy. Young puppies have weak jaws, so if they had dull teeth, a bite from them would be no big deal. Most adult golden retrievers bite out of fear and a professional can help you properly handle it. Puppy Biting vs. Chewing Puppy biting or nipping is when a dog purposefully bites you. As we already talked about, they need to do this to learn ABI. Puppy chewing, on the other hand, is when puppies chew on things to relieve the pressure in their mouths from their adult teeth coming in. Since puppies bite and chew for different reasons, you need to handle these problems differently. Mentally wear them by out by training them, going for long walks and letting them sniff around, and giving them puzzle toys or frozen kongs. Remember that a tired puppy is a good puppy. A: It can take up to six weeks or more for your puppy to learn ABI and what is appropriate to bite or not. If it takes longer than six weeks, just remember to be consistent with the steps to stop it and have faith that it will slow down soon. Q: Is puppy biting an act of aggression? A: Most puppy biting is a form of play. It helps them learn ABI. If you think your puppy is biting out of aggression, then you should talk to a professional. Q: Why are puppy teeth so sharp? Q: What is ABI? A: ABI is acquired bite inhibition, or the natural ability for a dog to not bite so hard. Q: Do all puppies bite? A: Yes! Instead, they need to learn to control their bite force, then learn to bite less. Have any questions about puppy biting? Let me know in the comments below! Related articles:. But much like other puppies, a Golden Retriever puppy has a tendency to chew and bite. So, how can you train your Golden Retriever puppy not to bite? Consistency is the key to teaching your Golden Retriever puppy not to bite. However, you have to train your dog to behave, and that includes keeping them from biting. This article may contain affiliate links and loyalgoldens may earn a commission if a purchase is made. Unlock your goldens natural intelligence and see just how quickly problem behaviors disappear. This is the best at home dog training I've ever used! Get up and walk away from the dog. Leave the room if you can. Focus on something else for a bit. And believe me, a Golden Retriever puppy or not always wants your attention! Now, you may not see immediate results with this method, but it will work over time if you remain consistent. Sending your new puppy mixed signals will only confuse him or her. You can pet your dog to reward them for not getting mouthy with your hand or fingers while playing. It can take a while to get to this stage, so be patient. When, your dog gets through an entire play session without biting, that deserves some extra love. Now, you have to be careful not to give too much attention when your dog does bite. If your Golden Retriever reverts to biting out of excitement or nervousness, immediately stop giving them attention. Turn away and ignore your dog like what you did before. Hopefully, they will get the message more quickly, so you can go back to playing without them biting. Use a firm tone rather than a cute tone you might use when praising your dog. When you say no, use physical signals to get your Golden Retriever to stop. Take your hand out of their mouth and move it out of reach. Make sure anyone who trains the dog uses the same firm tone. Tips to stop golden retriever pups from biting. Watch for Patterns Another way you can train your Golden Retriever puppy to stop biting is to watch for patterns. See if your dog tends to bite more at certain times of day, in the same room, or while playing with a particular toy. When your dog does bite, you can use other methods to get them to stop immediately. But after the fact, write down the date, time, and situation. If multiple people are training your dog, you should also log who your dog tends to bite. That way, you can see if there are patterns. Use Bitter Spray When you start training your Golden Retriever puppy, you may want to try using a bitter spray on your hands. Try this bitter spray Amazon , it works on your hands to stop chewing and biting and it also works on other things around the house that a new puppy might want to chew on like houseplants, furniture, etc. This can be an easy way to get your dog not to bite you. Now, this can be difficult if your dog bites other areas of your body, but it can help. You might get quicker results than if you only stuck to ignoring your dog. Have Lots of Toys Another excellent way to train your Golden Retriever to stop biting you is to use toys. You should be careful and use toys when your dog exhibits good behavior. But you can give your dog chew toys so that they have something they can bite. There is even a teething ring for dogs Amazon that you keep in the freezer and it provides something cool to chew on to help ease the pain during this period of your puppies life. Then, your dog will want to behave well when they play with you. Discover how to train your Golden Retriever by playing games : 21 games to play with your Golden that will make them smarter and better behaved! You can have a bag of small treats in your pocket that you use when playing with your dog. Whenever they go a long time without biting, you can give them a treat. You can also use the treats to distract your dog. If you know their patterns and when they usually bite, you can preempt that with a treat. Then, your dog can chew on the food rather than your hand. There are tons of treats out there, so go with something small. Try to avoid using treats as a bribe, and focus on making them a reward. That way, your dog can look forward to a treat for their good habits. Start As Soon as Possible Training your Golden Retriever puppy not to bite should start as soon as you bring your puppy home. If you wait until your dog gets into the habit of biting, it will be hard to break. You may still need to use various ways to train your dog, but it should be easier. Starting when your puppy is super young can also help them with other areas of their life. If you can train them not to bite, you will know how they learn best, which will help you train them for other things. It will also be harder if you use one method while your spouse uses another method. Everyone in your household should decide on how and when to train your Golden Retriever puppy. Use the same toys or treats, train your dog simultaneously, or use the same speaking tone. That way, your dog can learn from everyone rather than a single trainer. Then, you all can enjoy your Golden Retriever, and they can develop good habits. Final Thoughts Training a Golden Retriever to stop biting can take some time. You have to figure out when your dog bites and what triggers the biting. Then, you have to determine how your dog learns best and use that method to train your puppy. But once you find the perfect tool, your dog will learn to stop biting. They Are Naturally Mouthy Golden Retrievers are a mouthy breed, to begin with, they are naturally inclined to pick up and hold anything and everything in their mouths. While it may seem like there is something wrong with your puppy to cause him or her to bite so much, rest assured, all puppies bite, not just Golden Retriever puppies. Play Behaviour When you see a litter of pups play together, they often nip and bite at one another. It is their way of socializing and initiating play. Your puppy will bite and nip at you during playtime with you because it is a natural behaviour to them. They Are Teething Many people associate puppy biting with teething, however when a puppy is teething they will resort to chewing and mouthing in order to relieve their pain. They may chew or mouth on your hands and fingers, but teething is not the cause of biting that every puppy owner experiences. Puppy biting is most often just play. To summarize, puppy biting is normal and should be expected as a puppy owner. In general, biting will naturally subside in Golden Retriever puppies around the age of months. This is around the time that their adult teeth have come in. Puppies at this age usually already know how to moderate their bite, and will not bite or nip at you as much as they did when they were younger. While biting anything and everything is normal behaviour to your puppy, it is not something that you want your puppy to continue to do. It is up to you to teach your puppy not to bite humans, especially children. Take a look at the common mistakes puppy owners often make, and learn to avoid them. Puppies who are excited bite more. Children often fall victim to the most puppy bites because they get very excited around puppies and this just gets the puppy going which results in biting. Any attention that you give your puppy after they bite you will seem like a reward to your puppy, and the biting will just continue. Yelling at your puppy, pushing them away, talking to your puppy, or even looking at them is giving them the attention that they want. Bite inhibition is when your puppy learns how to control the strength of his bite. Puppies learn this skill when they are with their littermates, which is why they need to stay with them and their mother until they are 8 weeks old. Playing with their littermates teaches puppies that biting too hard hurts and will end playtime. The puppy then learns to bite softer. When your puppy comes home with you, it is up to you to teach your puppy how to control the force of their bite. Biting down on the thick fur coat of his mother or littermates is a lot different than biting down on human skin. By not teaching your puppy bite inhibition, you will risk your puppy turning into a dangerous adult. Puppy bites are a lot different than adult dog bites. Once your puppy learns how to control the strength of his bite, eventually the bites become gentler, and in time, your puppy will learn to stop biting altogether. This is part of teaching your puppy bite inhibition. This is a way to mimic how puppies play together, when one puppy bites another puppy too hard, that puppy yelps in pain, and will walk away. In some cases, puppies could get even more worked up by the noise and keep on biting. This is when you need to walk away. When your puppy has calmed down, you can resume playing with your puppy. When your puppy bites you again, repeat the steps of yelping and walking away. Eventually, your puppy will learn to soften his bite, because biting too hard ends playtime. The following video discusses why puppies bite, how to teach bite inhibition and how to survive puppy biting. It is a good idea to have a few chew toys on hand to offer up as a distraction from your skin. Check out this list of the best teething toys for puppies. This will get your puppy to stop and focus on being obedient. A great way to solve boredom is by going for a walk with your puppy. How much exercise should you give your Golden Retriever puppy? A good rule of thumb is 5 minutes of exercise for every month that your puppy is alive. So a 3-month-old puppy should get 15 minutes of exercise a day, a 5-month-old puppy should get 25 minutes per day, and so on. This is in addition to and not instead of playtime. Bitter Apple Spray can also be used to prevent your puppy from nipping and biting at you. Before you interact with your puppy, spray it on your arms, legs, pant legs, or sleeves, anywhere that your puppy likes to nip at you. Once your puppy bites at you, he will get a bad taste in his mouth and will stop. Bitter Apple Spray may not work on all puppies, some may actually develop a taste for it. I know that when my Golden Retriever Ellie was a pup this stuff worked amazingly well, but as she got older she developed a taste for bitter things such as crab apples which are extremely sour and she once sucked on a vinegar packet that was lying on the ground! Reward Good Behaviour Every time your puppy stops biting and nipping at you, you need to see this as positive behaviour. Good behaviour should be rewarded so that your puppy learns that he did something good. Rewarding good behaviour with affection and praise is great, you can also use treats, or toys, sometimes the best reward for your puppy is just spending time with them. Be Patient and Consistent Owning a puppy requires a lot of patience! It is so easy to lose your patience at times, but you need to know that your puppy is learning what is right and wrong, and that takes time. It might not happen overnight, but as long as you remain consistent and patient, your pup will learn good behaviour. If your puppy is nipping at your pant legs or sleeves, chances are he is loving the tugging feeling and is actually already playing tug-of-war. Instead of using your clothing, redirect his attention to a rope toy. One thing to be careful of is being too rough with tug-of-war, especially when your puppy is going through his teething phase. A game of fetch offers your pup a distraction from biting, and Golden Retriever puppies naturally love to retrieve things. This is a great way to also teach your puppy to drop it, by offering a treat when your puppy drops the ball or rope toy. A well-socialized puppy will be less likely to exhibit any unwanted behaviours later on. Enrolling your pup in puppy kindergarten or arranging some play dates with other dogs who are friendly and vaccinated is a great way for your pup to learn social skills. Other dogs are sometimes the best teachers for a puppy because they will let your puppy know what is okay for play and what is not okay, in terms of biting and nipping. Always supervise your puppy while playing with other dogs. Yelling at your puppy will only make your puppy scared and confused as well as lose trust and respect for you. Common mistakes people make when their puppy is biting are pushing them away, clamping down on their mouths or spraying them in the face with water. All of these are a bad idea! Your puppy could see this behaviour as a form of play and continue biting and nipping at you even harder. If you remain calm and use a firm voice not yelling , your pup will see you as in charge. Puppies and dogs often exhibit the same behaviour as we do, if you get upset and start yelling, your puppy will just get even more excited. As unpleasant as puppy biting is, it is normal behaviour. Your puppy biting and nipping at you with a mouth full of shark teeth may seem aggressive, but it is most often just out of curiosity and play behaviour. Golden Retrievers are known for their calm and gentle demeanour, but there are rare instances where you may have an aggressive puppy on your hands. Puppies who have been taken away from their litter earlier than weeks, bad breeding, being abused, a chemical imbalance, and not being socialized are all reasons for aggression in puppies. Signs of an aggressive puppy include barking, growling, lunging at you or another dog, a stiff posture, and showing teeth. If you think your puppy is aggressive, it is important to work with a professional dog trainer or behaviourist in order to find out the reasons for aggression and work on correcting the behaviour before it gets worse. It is important to keep your calm and work with your puppy to teach him the important skill of bite inhibition, and to redirect his biting to more appropriate behaviour. Socializing your puppy, as well as rewarding good behaviour will all help to turn your puppy into a well-behaved dog. Have you tried any of the tips mentioned above? Do you have any other tips to stop Golden Retriever puppy biting? Share your thoughts and comments below, as well as any questions you may have. I would love to hear from you. Jenny I am the proud owner of a Golden Retriever named Ellie. She keeps me busy, and when she is resting, you can find me working on my blog. She is always close by though. I live in Stirling, ON Canada with my husband, and we both enjoy the never a dull moment life with our Ellie. Spread the love. You are bound to want to know when your biting puppy will grow out of this phase and how you can speed that process up. Biting, as you will have discovered is usually accompanied by lots of noise! Why do puppies bite? So why do puppies bite? My puppy is biting hard Puppies do bite hard and it does hurt. But I want to reassure you that even at 8 weeks old, your puppy has learned to moderate his bite in play. Puppies have powerful jaws designed to tear through flesh and crush bones. Those of you who feed your puppy a raw diet will know that even an 8 week old puppy from a medium sized breed can crush bones the size of your little finger. He is deliberately attempting to be gentle. Puppy Biting — Bite inhibition This ability, that your puppy has, to moderate the power of his jaws in play, is called bite inhibition. It is something that his mother started to teach him when he was just a few weeks old. And now it is your turn to take over and complete the training process. Growling and Puppy biting One thing that often worries people who have a new puppy in the family, is the growling that accompanies puppy biting. It sounds horrific. Great snarls and snaps accompany the biting and the puppy can appear quite demonic as he grabs onto your skin, or clothes. Tugging away with all the strength he can muster. Ninety nine times out of a hundred this is completely normal play biting. Is my puppy biting aggressive? You cannot determine whether or not a puppy is biting aggressively by how hard he bites or by the volume of the noise he makes. Play biting puppies bite hard and growl fiercely. Some puppies do occasionally draw blood. But these are not normally savage or crushing bites and the puppy is clearly enjoying himself. Fierce but fun! The play biting puppy will launch himself at the target of his bite. Whether it is your slippers or your fingers, with equal tail-wagging enthusiasm, hanging on grimly and grabbing repeatedly when the item is removed from him. All this, shocking though it may seem, is normal, and is not a sign that your puppy is going to be an aggressive dog! In fact some of the gentlest and most amiable breeds the labrador for example are the worst and fiercest play biters. The puppy that is a cause for concern is the puppy that is frightened. Because although puppies rarely bite through aggression, the nervous puppy may become aggressive as he matures Is my puppy afraid? A scared puppy may bite and scared puppies can grow into scared adult dogs so this is something you need to address quickly. You will know that your puppy is scared because he will try to avoid whatever it is he is scared of. A really frightened puppy will sometimes give off a distinctive musky smell. This hiding, and retreating, and the scared smell are warning signs that you have scared your puppy badly, or purchased a poorly socialised puppy. In this situation you need to get specialist help right away. Your vet should be able to advise you. For the vast majority of puppy owners then, biting is normal puppy behavior. Will my puppy biting stop naturally? To some extent biting is a phase caused by natural puppy playfulness and teething. Some puppies do stop biting with very little input from their family. Which is great. You may feel he should have grown out of it by now. We can physically prevent puppies from biting and we can train puppies not to bite. Both of these are good strategies. Or when children are getting upset, or visitors are winding your puppy up. Prevention usually involves interrupting the biting behavior, then redirecting the puppy into an alternative and more acceptable behavior, such as chewing on a toy. Or, it may involve temporarily separating him from his playmates. Interrupting the puppy biting In mild cases you may simply be able to put a toy in your biting puppy's mouth and get him tugging on that instead of on your fingers. If you are on the floor with the puppy stand up. And if you are standing up, turn and walk away from the puppy. This is where dog gates come in very handy with small puppies. A standard baby gate works fine for most breeds of dog. Managing the puppy You may have to pick up your biting puppy to remove him from the scene if he is biting your children for example, rather than you If he bites your hands and clothes as you try to restrain him, put him on the other side of a barrier or in his crate or puppy playpen for a short while. Although the puppy does learn from them, these are useful management techniques to enable you to control the situation. They help you to keep your puppy calm, and prevent the biting escalating through over excitement. Over-excited puppies Puppy play biting is directly linked to excitement. The more excited your puppy gets, the more and the harder he will bite. And the harder it will be to interrupt and distract him. Rough play excites puppies and noisy play does too. Children tend to squeal when they play and get very physical with puppies. One of the first rules they need to learn when playing with dogs, especially big dogs, is to stand up and stand still when the game gets too much. Limit such play and call a halt to it if your puppy is biting. With medium to large breed dogs, physical rough and tumble play is not a great idea. It can lead to dogs bowling people over or humping them, neither of which is very pleasant. Stopping play when it gets rough is a good management strategy and it is a form of training too. Over time, your puppy learns that biting and rough play loses him his playmates and that people simply leave if he is being mean. When do puppies stop biting? Many puppies have stopped biting completely by six months of age and biting is usually subsiding by the time that the puppy is heading towards five months old. This is if the puppy has been managed appropriately If people have been exciting him, or rewarding him for attention seeking behavior then biting can persist And it can be much more of a problem in bigger stronger puppies than in little ones. Training Puppies Not To Bite The idea of this exercise is to teach a puppy to accept being stroked and handled in any way, without touching us with his teeth. The event marker is a distinctive sound. Even around his mouth, without him making any attempt to bite you. You can also make it easier for him by starting this training when he is calm and not distracted. But for now, keep things simple. It can be a good way of getting the training started so that you have chance to say YES and give the puppy the opportunity to learn what you want him to do. Over the next few sessions, you can work on getting your hand closer and closer to the puppy. Until you are brushing the sides of his face without him making any attempt to mouth or bite at you Progress to touching and holding his collar, stroking his ears, grooming him, examining his paws and so on, all the time rewarding him for the correct behavior. Anytime the mouthing returns, back up to a point where he can succeed and move forward more slowly again Bite Inhibition Training Some experts feel that puppies should be allowed to mouth and even bite gently for a week or two before being prevented from biting altogether. Simply follow the instructions for managing your puppy above when he bites hard. But allow him to mouth you when he bites gently without much pressure. This is a great way to teach a dog excellent control over his mouth. After a couple of weeks of this, you can progress to the training exercise I outlined in the previous section. Older puppies that bite in play have often learned that this gets them a lot of attention. They have discovered that people squeal and shout and get quite cross. Sometimes these people push and shove the dog around which young dogs quite enjoy when they are playing. For these dogs it is important that you stop all physical play, with all family members If a puppy is biting hard at your hands when you try to interrupt his game. Or an older puppy is getting out of hand biting at clothing, you need to put your puppy on a harness and house-line a short trailing leash. This will enable you to control your puppy, and take him to a calming place, without handling him. You can just pick up the end of the line and lead him away. Older biting puppies are often bright and bored. And the best approach to avoiding future episodes of bad behavior is a structured programme of training and interesting activities. A professional dog trainer using modern positive training methods will be able to help you with these. Summary So now you know some tips on how to stop your puppy from biting. The first few weeks can be tough with a determined biter in the house, but you will get through this and come out the other side. A few months from now, this difficult period will be a distant memory In the meantime, focus on keeping your biting puppy calm, avoiding too much rough play, and redirecting his biting onto appropriate toys and activities. Spend some time on the training exercise set out above. Are you a proud new golden retriever puppy parent or considering getting a furry friend? While puppies are adorable and full of energy, they can also be a handful, especially when it comes to biting. This article will cover practical strategies to manage puppy biting and help you and your pup develop a solid and loving relationship. Thus biting is natural. Their bites will become softer as they practice and learn to manage their bite strength. They will eventually stop biting entirely. While biting is a natural part of the learning process, it is essential to train your puppy not to bite excessively. Here are a few tips to get you started: Providing Chew Toys for Redirecting Biting Behavior Providing chew toys is an excellent approach to help your puppy stop biting. When your puppy begins to bite you, remove your hand or foot and replace it with a chew toy. This teaches them that biting is acceptable, but only when done with toys, not people. It is essential to keep an eye on your puppy when they play with chew toys to ensure they do not consume anything toxic. By exposing your puppy to a variety of people, animals, and environments in a controlled and positive manner, you can help them develop proper social skills and reduce biting tendencies. Socialization helps puppies learn appropriate bite inhibition and establishes boundaries for acceptable behavior during interactions. Through well-planned socialization experiences, you can guide your puppy towards becoming a well-behaved and gentle companion. Employing the Time-Out Strategy for Persistent Biting Use the time-out strategy when other methods fail to stop your puppy from biting. If your puppy continues to bite, place him on a time-out for 30 seconds before allowing him to return to play. This teaches your puppy that biting is unacceptable and will result in a loss of playtime or attention. Again, use a gentle tone and avoid shouting or scolding your puppy. When your puppy plays gently with their toys instead of biting you, shower them with praise and perhaps even a tasty gift! This teaches your puppy that good behavior leads to beautiful things. Instead, concentrate on encouraging appropriate behavior and redirecting any inappropriate biting. Your puppy will learn to control their biting and play in a friendly and safe manner with time, patience, and positive reinforcement. This entails repeating the same commands, techniques, and rewards each time you train. When you do this, your puppy learns what is expected of them and how to get rewarded. On the other hand, if you are inconsistent, your puppy may get confused and unsure of what they need to do to please you. This can make training more difficult and frustrating for you and your puppy. So, strive to be consistent in your training. However, they can get nippy during their fun exploration of the world around them. The good news is that this is a natural habit for pups, and there are ways to deal with it. Puppies prefer to bite to initiate play, learn more about their surroundings, and adjust their bite pressure, especially when they are teething. These actions are part of how they play, interact, and learn about their environment. First, however, puppies must be taught how to control their biting pressure and redirect their biting to appropriate toys and chew objects, which we will discuss later. Puppy bites, for example, can become more painful and even harmful as they increase in size. Additionally, it might lead to destructive chewing if you do not divert their biting habit to appropriate chew items. As a result, it is critical to address this habit early on through regular teaching and positive reinforcement. Understand what motivates them and what makes them more likely to engage in biting. Adjust your training methods: Not all puppies respond to the same training techniques. Some may respond better to positive reinforcement, while others may require more redirection and distraction. Consider their energy levels: Golden Retrievers are known for their energy and enthusiasm. Be patient and consistent: Training takes time, and each puppy learns at their own pace. Be patient with your puppy and provide consistent guidance. Remember, every Golden Retriever puppy is an individual, and what works for one may not work for another. With a customized approach, you can effectively address biting behavior and set your unique puppy on the path to becoming a well-behaved and happy companion. So, most puppies begin to bite and mouth less frequently when they are 8 to 10 months old. However, this varies greatly depending on the individual pup. Some may stop sooner, while others may take a little longer. Golden retrievers, for example, love using their tongues. At the same time, herding dogs such as border collies or corgis may continue to nip at ankles as they age. Just keep working with your pet and providing the guidance they require to create positive habits! Conclusion As you begin the joyful road of raising your Golden Retriever puppy, keep in mind that training and socialization are essential for producing a happy and well-behaved dog. You can teach your puppy what is expected of them and create healthy behaviors that will last a lifetime using consistent and positive reinforcement techniques. Remember that each puppy is unique, and what works for one may not work for another. You will be rewarded with a devoted and well-behaved companion if you are patient and committed to the training process. Remember to give your puppy enough exercise and mental stimulation and to continuously reward positive behavior. You can help your puppy grow into a happy and healthy adult dog who will provide you happiness for many years by doing so. By the time your puppy reaches around three months of age, they should start to develop bite inhibition and learn to control the force of their bites during play. As you continue to interact and train with your puppy, you can gradually increase your sensitivity to the level of bites you find acceptable. By the age of four or five months, their play bites should no longer exert any force. Can I use physical punishment to stop my puppy from biting? Certainly not! To stop a puppy from biting, never use physical punishment. It is not only ineffective, but it can also be harmful and cause long-term behavioral issues. Instead, train your puppy using positive reinforcement techniques, including redirection, time-outs, and excellent rewarding behavior. What can I do? Puppies frequently nip and bite while playing with other dogs, but teaching them to control their bite force is essential. My puppy is teething. What can I do to stop them from biting? Teething is a normal developmental stage for puppies , and they naturally want to chew and bite things. Similar to what we discussed earlier. Galen has been connecting quality Golden Retriever breeders with loving families since and is the founder of My Golden Retriever Puppies. He and his wife have four children and love spending time together, traveling lived oversees for 4 years , enjoying the outdoors and connecting Golden families. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. Pet Keen is reader-supported. When you buy via links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no cost to you. Learn more. Golden Retrievers are notorious for this, and it often lasts so long that people wonder if it ever stops. Consider how sociable and friendly they are by nature. Why is this habit so difficult for them to break? Golden Retrievers follow their basic instinct to bite because of their history with hunting, chasing, and even biting in some situations. Why Do Golden Retrievers Bite? Golden Retrievers start to explore the world with their mouths and eventually start to enjoy chewing on whatever they can get into their mouth. It strengthens their gums and teeth, but it is not a behavior most people want to encourage. This breed is also more inclined to bite things because they were bred for hunting and retrieving small game. Aside from following their instincts, there could be other reasons that they are nipping at you or your possessions. Some dogs bite when they are scared, need help, or are in unfamiliar environments. Biting is a natural reaction for many situations. Still, it must stop before it turns into a habit. Golden Retriever litters typically stop biting around 8—14 weeks old. The pain conditions them not to bite without a threat. Keep Them Active Dogs who are mentally and physically stimulated are less likely to have behavioral issues. Exercise them daily. When playing, keep the sessions gentle. However, do not do this while they are still being trained. Image Credit: Photology, Shutterstock 3. Socialize Them If possible, enroll your dog in obedience classes as soon as possible. Some dogs feel threatened more easily than others, and they may act out around other dogs if not properly trained and socialized. Introduce them to new people and animals as often as possible. Positive Reinforcement The best form of training is with positive reinforcement. Use lots of praise and treats whenever your dog is acting in a way you want them to. You cannot afford to skip this type of training because it is the most effective. The older they get, the bigger a sign it is that you need to fix the problem. If you continue to allow your dogs to bite people , animals, or objects, someone is going to get hurt. She attributes her passion for the environment and all its creatures to her childhood when she was showing horses on weekends and spending her weeknights devoting her attention to her pets. She enjoys spending most of her time in Michigan playing with her two rescue cats, Chewbacca and Lena, and her dog, Clayton. Read more Advertisement. Read the full disclosure here. Tasty finger! Your golden retriever puppy is as friendly as can be — great with kids, respectful of other dogs, and not overly attentive to your cat. Yes, golden retrievers are known for their good-natured demeanor, but they are still dogs — not so very far removed from their wild cousins, and they can be unpredictable when faced with stressful, disturbing, or frightening situations. One of our jobs as responsible dog owners, of course, is to keep our dogs safe, but we may not always be able to protect them, and we may not always be able to prevent them from biting through fear or when in pain. What is Bite Inhibition? Puppies begin learning this from their mother and siblings as soon as they start to tumble around with each other in play. If they bite too hard, they are scolded by their mother or alerted with a yelp from their siblings. Eventually, they learn how hard is too hard, and they use their teeth more gently in play. Human Sensitive or Advanced Bite Inhibition By the time your puppy moves into your home, they will have been using their bite inhibition skills for weeks. Your puppy needs to learn that human beings are fragile and should be treated with care. There are many professional trainers who recommend that you simply train your puppy not to bite. This seems like a practical course of action, and it does work — in the short term. Teaching a puppy not to bite will give you quick results, but it may mean they never learn how much force is safe to use on people when they are forced to bite in an emergency. So if they do eventually bite, they will know to hold back the pressure safely and will not cause anywhere near as much pain or damage as they otherwise might. Why is Bite Inhibition Important? Believe it or not, even the most gentle dog that has been trained from a young age never to bite, can react to certain triggers. Those triggers are fear and pain. Consider these situations: Your dog has been suffering from chronic ear infections and hates to have his ears handled. The neighbor stops by with her toddler, who immediately runs to your dog and fondles his sensitive ears roughly. What will he do? You and your dog are walking down the road like you do every morning when out of nowhere comes a huge dog who attacks your dog without thinking twice. You manage to pull your dog away, but in the process, your frightened dog bites your arm. Your sweet golden retriever has gotten themself tangled in some barbed wire while hiking. As you loosen the wire from her skin and fur, she snaps at you, biting your hand. You may never experience any of these situations. By teaching bite inhibition while your puppy is young, you will be far safer and ready for any of these situations should they occur. Teaching Advanced Bite Inhibition Following is a general guide to the bite inhibition skills your puppy learns and when, as well as where you should aim for their skills to be at certain ages. She will start the puppies off by teaching them how rough is too rough during nursing and play. These lessons begin when the puppies start nursing day 1 and continue until the day you pick your puppy up from the breeder. This works for some puppies, but for others, it just seems to arouse the pup and make matters worse. You will have to experiment to find out what works for you and your pup. You should withdraw all of your attention from your puppy for very hard bites. Do not over-correct your puppy so they become afraid of biting. After your puppy has calmed down, use a chew toy as a reward and let them chew it in your lap or lying by your side. This teaches you puppy that there are other ways to keep their mouths and teeth busy. By four or five months, all force behind play bites should be eliminated. Kids tend to play rough with puppies, and puppies will get rough right back. Your puppy needs to know that every human being is sensitive to their bites, not just you. It is a process that sometimes lasts months, depending on your puppy. Be prepared for this, and remember that long-term results in your adult dog are more important than curtailing puppy bites as painful as they may be. Supervise your puppy around children — If you have young children at home, you will have to think carefully about how you will protect them and your puppy. Little puppy teeth can cause a lot of pain, especially when your pup is still learning to control those urges. Young children can also cause a lot of pain to small puppies. Always supervise very carefully when your pup and children are together. A tired puppy is a happy puppy — It will be much easier to teach bite inhibition if your puppy is not bouncing off the walls. Make sure they get enough exercise every day. Not only will this help with training, but it will also help prevent all kinds of other destructive behavior. Conclusion Teaching bite inhibition to your golden retriever puppy is a gift you give to your pup that will last forever.

While litter box training does not replace a dog's need to run and play outdoors, it can keep your home cleaner with fewer accidents. The type of litter you purchase is extremely important, as a puppy may try to eat it. Choose a natural litter that does not clump to avoid an emergency visit to your veterinarian. With consistency and positive reinforcement, your puppy will be using the litter box on his own every day. Step 1 Choose a location in your home for your puppy's litter box training. If you have been using housebreaking pads or newspaper for your puppy, place the litter pan nearby. Choosing a tile or hardwood floor area is wise to make accidents easy to clean up. Step 2 Fill a disposable cookie sheet or pan with wood pellets or recycled paper litter. A cookie sheet is smaller and therefore easy for a little puppy to climb into and jump out. Wood pellets or litter made specifically for dogs is larger and more absorbent than traditional cat litter. Once it is soiled, it will break down to a sawdust consistency. Step 3 Place your puppy in the litter pan. Continue placing your puppy in the pan hourly. Each time you place him in the pan, give him a vocal cue such as "go on" or "potty. Your puppy may still have a few accidents, or not get his entire body into the box before attempting to use it. Do not punish him for accidents near the box. Instead, continue placing him in the box at regular intervals. Step 4 Replace the cookie pan or sheet with a litter box large enough to accommodate your growing puppy. Place the litter box in the same spot as the disposable pan for consistency, and show the new pan to your puppy. Tips If you notice your puppy begin to relieve himself outside of the pan, make a noise such as a clap or whistle to distract him, and place him in the litter pan. We all know cats are typically the fur family members to use a litter box. But what about dogs? Are there any good arguments for litter box training your canine friend? A dog litter box? Or an artificial grass pad? So I rarely advise pet parents to skip this opportunity. That said, there are a few instances when using a dog litter box is preferable. Is it right for your dog? This is especially true if you have a small dog, or tiny tinkler as I call them, since they often have more difficulty holding their urine than bigger dogs. This leads to more accidents in the house and bigger frustrations, which puts a damper on your relationship. I wrote an entirely different article that goes into more detail about why your dog is peeing in the house. But if you live in an area that sees several feet of snow or is primarily paved and gets very hot, an indoor dog litter box might actually be safer for your pet. You or Your Dog Have Mobility Issues If you or your dog have mobility issues, dog litter box training might be a good idea. Some companies, like doggybathroom. All you need to do is change out the pads and keep the inside clean. This can be a good option for medium-sized dogs that raise their leg to pee. The downside is the cost. The pee pads are disposable and will need to be replaced frequently. If you want to use dog litter, the sides of the litter box should be low enough for your dog to easily step over but high enough to contain the litter. Now what about artificial grass pads? The initial investment for a grass pad like this one is minimal. Can Dogs Use Cat Litter? Yes, technically, dogs can use cat litter. However, cat litter can be harmful if ingested, which is a risk since our canine friends are known to eat strange things from time to time. Dog litter typically consists of larger, more absorbent pellets, which are safer if ingested. Some are also made with recycled material, like wood or paper. Pin me! Whether you choose a litter box or a grass pad, will your dog really use it? This is the million doggie bone question. Can pet parents actually get their pups to use a dog litter box? In many cases, the answer is yes, you can. Trying to contain a Bull Mastiff in a box while they do their business would be quite a feat! And large dogs tend to raise their leg to pee, so the sides of the dog litter box would have to be very high to avoid soaking surrounding objects. Step 1: Find the Right Spot When house training dogs, we usually bring them outside. Do this by getting a paper towel or pee pad containing a little of their urine and placing it where you want them to go. Step 3: Praise Them for Using the Right Spot Again, just as you would do if training a dog to go outside, be sure to give them lots of praise and some training treats when they do their business in the right spot. But with time, your dog will understand how to use their new pee spot. And of course, you want your home to be sanitary. Accidents are part of the process, but if you follow these basic house training guidelines, you can get the newest member of your family on the right track. To potty train your puppy, establish a routine Puppies do best on a regular schedule. The schedule teaches them that there are times to eat, times to play and times to do their business. Typically, a puppy can control their bladder one hour for every month of age. So if your puppy is 2 months old, they can hold it for about two hours. Take your puppy outside frequently—at least every two hours—and immediately after they wake up, during and after playing, and after eating or drinking. Pick a bathroom spot outside, and always take your puppy on a leash to that spot. While your puppy is relieving themselves, use a specific word or phrase that you can eventually use before they go to remind them what to do. Take them out for a longer walk or some playtime only after they have eliminated. Reward your puppy every time they eliminate outdoors. This step is vital, because rewarding your dog for going outdoors is the only way to teach what's expected of them. Put your puppy on a regular feeding schedule. What goes into a puppy on a schedule comes out of a puppy on a schedule. Depending on their age, puppies may need to be fed two or three times a day. Feeding your puppy at the same times each day will make it more likely that they'll eliminate at consistent times as well, making house training easier for both of you. Pick up your puppy's water dish about two and a half hours before bedtime to reduce the likelihood that they'll need to relieve themselves during the night. Most puppies can sleep for approximately seven hours without needing a bathroom break. If your puppy does wake you up in the night, don't make a big deal of it; otherwise, they will think it is time to play and won't want to go back to sleep. Turn on as few lights as possible, don't talk to or play with your puppy, take them out to the spot where they relieve themselves and then return them to bed. Top 10 pet tips Sign up to receive our exclusive e-book full of important information about caring for your pet, including training techniques and answers to frequently asked questions. Tether your puppy to you or a nearby piece of furniture with a six-foot leash if you are not actively training or playing. Watch for signs that your puppy needs to go out. Some signs are obvious, such as barking or scratching at the door, squatting, restlessness, sniffing around or circling. When you see these signs, immediately grab the leash and take them outside to their bathroom spot. If they eliminate, praise them and reward with a treat. Keep your puppy on leash in the yard. During the house training process, your yard should be treated like any other room in your house. Give your puppy some freedom in the house and yard only after they become reliably house trained. When you can't supervise, confine When you're unable to watch your puppy at all times, restrict them to an area small enough that they won't want to eliminate there. Browse Dog Crates on Amazon. You can use a portion of a bathroom or laundry room blocked off with baby gates. Or you may want to crate train your puppy. Be sure to learn how to use a crate humanely as a method of confinement. If your puppy has spent several hours in confinement, you'll need to take them directly to their bathroom spot as soon as you return. Mistakes happen Expect your puppy to have a few accidents in the house—it's a normal part of house training. Here's what to do when that happens: Without a lot of drama, immediately take them to their outside bathroom spot. Praise your pup and give a treat if they finish there. Don't punish your puppy for eliminating in the house. If you find a soiled area, just clean it up. Rubbing your puppy's nose in it, taking them to the spot and scolding them or any other punishment will only make them afraid of you or afraid to eliminate in your presence. Punishment will do more harm than good. Clean the soiled area thoroughly. Puppies are highly motivated to continue soiling in areas that smell like urine or feces. It's extremely important that you use these supervision and confinement procedures to minimize the number of accidents. Make plans for when you're away If you have to be away from home more than four or five hours a day, this may not be the best time for you to get a puppy. Instead, you may want to consider an older house-trained dog who can wait for your return. If you already have a puppy and must be away for long periods of time, you may need to: Arrange for someone, such as a responsible neighbor or a professional pet sitter, to take them for bathroom breaks. Alternatively, train them to eliminate in a specific place indoors. Be aware, however, that doing this can prolong the process of house training. Teaching your puppy to eliminate on newspaper may create a life-long surface preference, meaning that even as an adult they may eliminate on any newspaper lying around the living room. If you plan to paper-train, confine them to an area with enough room for a sleeping space, a playing space and a separate place to eliminate. In the designated elimination area, use either pet pee pads, newspapers cover the area with several layers of newspaper or a sod box. To make a sod box, place sod in a container such as a child's small, plastic swimming pool. You can also find dog litter products at a pet supply store. If you have to clean up an accident outside the designated elimination area, put the soiled rags or paper towels inside that area afterward to help your puppy recognize the scented area as the place where they are supposed to eliminate.

Nature has a way of changing our plans sometimes. We cannot put in an order for the correct amount of females or males. We will also only breed if we have a substantial amount of commitment deposits for that litter. Please be patient, we are committed to find the right puppy for you, it might even be with another breeder we recommend that would better fit your needs. Phoenix, Arizona. We breed quality Golden Retrievers for service, therapy, facility, hunting and pets. Sires we pick have all of the same health certifications as well. Which means that our goals for being a good breeder revolve around Health, Education, Accountability, Responsibility and Tradition. Our local owners enjoy six weeks of free puppy classes after they take their pups home and have unlimited counseling with us and our trainer. Family Pets Goldens are made to love We believe Golden Retrievers are the best for all types of owners. They are so gentle that you can be assured your loved ones are safe around these wonderful dogs with responsible training. Service, Therapy and Facility Dogs goldens are made to serve We breed for service, therapy and facility dogs at a high quality. All of our puppies are trained as if they are going into service. We typically have about pups in every litter that go into service of some kind. We usualy donate one puppy out of every litter. It is our tithe and a gift we love to give to someone in need. Our Training Mission goldens are made to work We strive for excellence in our training program. All puppies are introduced to many sounds, textures and surfaces to create a confident dog. We offer complimentary 6 weeks of puppy Socialization and Obedience with their litter mates. Testimonials "Quality parentage and conscientious breeding standards.He is beyond eager to learn. She has truly changed our lives, especially our daughters life. Breeders VS. The sad truth is that many pet store purchased pups actually come from puppy mills. Basically, there is zero authenticity with pet stores. When it comes to adopting any animal from a pet store, there is an increased risk of unforeseen health or genetic problems. You also cultivate a life-long relationship with the breeder, meaning support is available to you anytime you may need it. With My Golden Retriever Puppies , you have the option to come and visit both the puppy and the breeder in person! Golden Retrievers are an adaptable breed, meaning they are better at adapting to seasonal changes and various types of climate than certain other breeds. Goldens sport a double-coat, which ensures that these sweet pups are able to tolerate slightly colder temperatures than their friends from other breeds. Your pup deserves better than that, which is why here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we ensure high-quality care is taken of your pet at all times. For more about the true price of a golden retriever puppy, you can read our full price breakdown here. Location Information for California Customers Our home office is located in Ohio, but we understand that long-distance travel can be inconvenient. If you prefer to meet a breeder in person, they may be able to offer private visits at their home. Of course! Here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we value family and authenticity, which is why we always guarantee our pups through our 2-year genetic health guarantee. Like adopting a Golden Retriever from a pet store, there is an increased risk when adopting a pup from a rescue center or shelter as well. For example, pups purchased through a shelter or rescue center are far less likely to come with the kinds of health guarantees and reassurances that a breeder can provide. What type of Golden Retrievers are sold in California? We have some good news! Ready to make your Golden Retriever dreams come true? Take a look at our convenient list of available puppies. How do I know which breeders to trust in California? Our independent network of trusted breeders have already been pre-screened and verified, so that you can focus on what really matters: choosing your dream puppy. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. Breeders VS. The sad truth is that many pet store purchased pups actually come from puppy mills. Basically, there is zero authenticity with pet stores. When it comes to adopting any animal from a pet store, there is an increased risk of unforeseen health or genetic problems. You also cultivate a life-long relationship with the breeder, meaning support is available to you anytime you may need it. With My Golden Retriever Puppies , you have the option to come and visit both the puppy and the breeder in person! Golden Retrievers are an adaptable breed, meaning they are better at adapting to seasonal changes and various types of climate than certain other breeds. Goldens sport a double-coat, which ensures that these sweet pups are able to tolerate slightly colder temperatures than their friends from other breeds. Your pup deserves better than that, which is why here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we ensure high-quality care is taken of your pet at all times. For more about the true price of a golden retriever puppy, you can read our full price breakdown here. Location Information for Nevada Customers Our home office is located in Ohio, but we understand that long-distance travel can be inconvenient. If you prefer to meet a breeder in person, they may be able to offer private visits at their home. Of course! Here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we value family and authenticity, which is why we always guarantee our pups through our 2-year genetic health guarantee. Like adopting a Golden Retriever from a pet store, there is an increased risk when adopting a pup from a rescue center or shelter as well. For example, pups purchased through a shelter or rescue center are far less likely to come with the kinds of health guarantees and reassurances that a breeder can provide. What type of Golden Retrievers are sold in Nevada? We have some good news! Ready to make your Golden Retriever dreams come true? Take a look at our convenient list of available puppies. How do I know which breeders to trust in Nevada? Our independent network of trusted breeders have already been pre-screened and verified, so that you can focus on what really matters: choosing your dream puppy. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. I have combined the two for easier navigation of all of my services and breeding program. I welcome you to my home on the internet and encourage you to browse around to see all that I have to offer. My name is Chrissy Harp, I have been in business for 18 years now. I want everyone that purchases a golden to have the same great experience of owning a well mannered, healthy, lovable puppy as I have. Everyone should own a golden retriever once in their lives, there is nothing like it!! My line has been in our family for 26 years, so I know the health history and it speaks for itself. I stand behind every puppy with a 2 year health guarantee. My whole mission behind spending all this time and money finding the perfect breed able dogs, is so an average family can have a high quality, healthy pet. As it becomes available, I will post information about my puppies as well as dogs that I have available for sale. You may sign up for my email newsletter. I try to send one out when I have a litter expected, a dog that is trained and ready to be placed, a possible therapy dog, a retired dog needing a retirement home, or if something is new. Additional photos are always available. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me by e-mail at puppies opkgoldens. We have been breeding and showing Golden Retrievers for over 20 years. Many of our Goldens have gone on to win numerous awards at competitions throughout the U. Some of our pups even starred in Disney movies! Eagleridge has been recognized multiple times for our outstanding achievements and dedication to breeding outstanding Golden Retrievers. We are proudly registered as a Breeder of Merit by the AKC, as recognition for our dedication and passion of breeding beautiful, healthy Golden Retriever puppies. The AKC has also rewarded us with their Silver Medallion as recognition of our success over the years. Baby Francis 3 arriving January ! Testimonials Gus "Good morning! I wanted to reach out and send some photos of Gus who is now a little over a year old. He has gotten into Dock Diving in the last few months and has earned his Dock Senior title. Thank you for a great dog! When I tell you that he did it with no effort, I'm not exaggerating. He did it all on his own! I think he would have passed the test when I received him in July. I think you and your staff should be very proud of the training you provide your puppies! Please thank everyone who worked with Dwayne. In two weeks, he will become a therapy dog with Easter Seals of Alabama. Jen was so helpful, knowledgeable, and professional throughout the whole adoption process. She communicated regularly with us, providing so many updates and videos along the way. We are so fortunate for her and her staff! Thank you Jen and Eagleridge Golden Retrievers!! Jen was always super responsive, knowledgeable and able to answer our many questions. We have had Kevin for about a month and a half now we got him in September and he is settling in perfectly. The training program was a great addition, he is able to follow commands and is very well tempered and so smart. From the adoption process to the training program, we would absolutely recommend this breeder to anyone looking for a great experience! This FL boy is definitely enjoying the Northeastern Autumn! Furthermore, being a client since , I could honestly compare the experience from four 4 years ago to this present time. It was as stress free working with Jen Francis as it could possibly be! Her knowledge about this variety of a K9 is remarkable. The quality health , temperament and of course breed beauty and more are on full display at EagleRidge!

White merle Not all white Frenchies are albino, though this can be the case. White French Bulldogs should be bought from an experienced breeder who understands exactly how to breed healthy white French Bulldogs. White French Bulldog health problems White dogs are often thought to have inherent problems but, contrary to popular belief, not all white French Bulldogs are plagued with health issues. All Frenchies are susceptible to brachycephalic syndrome because of their short nasal passages and there are a number of other known health conditions that can afflict any purebred French Bulldog of any color. If a French Bulldog is white because of albinism — a genetic disorder characterized by a complete or partial lack of the pigment melanin in the eyes, skin, and hair — it will have a pinkish tinge to its skin and eyes. Deafness in White French Bulldogs It is often thought that albino white French Bulldogs are deaf, but there is no evidence specifically linking albinism and deafness. Hearing problems can occur in the trademark bat ears any color of French Bulldog and have various causes. A study of congenital deafness deafness at birth concluded that deafness at birth can occur in French Bulldogs but the presence of white fur seems to increase the likelihood of it occurring. There are high chances of health implications for such a Frenchie including deafness, blindness, or both. This is the main reason why two Merle Frenchies should not be bred and a responsible breeder will avoid this. White French Bulldogs Skin problems Just as fair skin people can burn more easily in the sun, so can white French Bulldogs. This means it is imperative to limit the amount of time they spend in direct sunlight to prevent sunburn and the possibility of skin cancer developing. Eye conditions in White French Bulldogs French Bulldogs, those with white coats included, can develop a number of eye conditions. These include cataracts, cherry eye, dry eye, and corneal ulcers. It is thought that white French Bulldogs are more prone to this condition. The range of white French Bulldog coat patterns and markings French Bulldogs can have white fur in their coats for three reasons: When only their skin cells do not produce any pigment. When they have albinism which causes a lack of pigmentation in all cells including fur and eyes. When they have a genetic disorder known as Leucism which causes a lack of pigmentation everywhere except the eyes. Some Frenchies are totally white and some have patterns that include white. There are also several Frenchie colors that have a white chest blaze. If a Frenchie is white because it has Leucism, it will look like an albino but will have colored eyes. A non-albino white French Bulldog usually has brown eyes. If it has no other colors, patterns, or markings, it is classed as solid white. It is very rare to see such a white Frenchie without a black mask but occasionally this may be a lot paler. White Pied French Bulldog Pied, also known as piebald is a term that simply means having two or more colors. With a Frenchie, Brindle typically appears as black stripes on a fawn background. A White Brindle French Bulldog is predominantly white with patches of brindled fur across its face, neck, and body. It effectively dilutes the intended color. Occasionally white Merle French bulldogs develop this color because they have inherited two dominant Merle genes, one from each parent. White French Bulldogs with the double merle genes are often deaf, blind, or both. There is also a chance of them having far worse physical conditions at birth. How much is a white French Bulldog? It is always difficult to state an exact price for a French Bulldog because they fluctuate all the time and depend upon many variables including fashion, availability, color, bloodlines, and demand. The French Bulldog is a popular dog and demand keeps rising. White French Bulldogs are expensive compared to other purebred dogs because they are not easy to breed. Also if someone specifically wants a white Frenchie, and a breeder notices a rise in demand for this color, this will lead to an artificially high price. If you spot a white French Bulldog for sale, ensure you are given proof of its health before you buy in light of the inherent health problems that can occur with certain types of white coats. Occasionally their eyes are light brown and sometimes they almost look black. Non-standard eye colors are blue or green. As white French Bulldog blue eyes are often linked to albinism or double merle, it is wise to have a sight test carried out on such a dog to ensure it has good vision. Are White French Bulldogs rare? White is one of the most common French Bulldog Colors. A French Bulldog often has white in its coat with other patterns and markings but it is quite rare to see a solid white Frenchie. Some breeders might attempt to breed a white litter but should never do this by mating two Merle dogs because of the health implications. Reputable breeders concentrate on producing healthy Frenchies as opposed to specific colors, so healthy white Frenchies should occur by chance only. Other useful White French Bulldog facts Lifespan The life expectancy of a healthy white French bulldog is 10 to 12 years, the same as any other color. However, Frenchie owners need to keep a close watch for problems, especially with hearing and sight. Annual vaccinations and health checks are essential as are a healthy diet and the right level of exercise. Air travel is not recommended for dogs with short nasal passages because of associated breathing difficulties. Also, white Frenchies and any other color cannot swim for very long because of their weight distribution, large head, and short muzzles so should be kept away from water or always wear a doggie life jacket. Size Like other colors, white French Bulldogs can weigh up to 28 lbs and reach a height of 11 to 13 inches. Frenchies are prone to excessive weight gain so ensure you feed yours the right amount to prevent it from developing weight-related illnesses such as diabetes and heart disease. Characteristics A white French Bulldog has a square head, a short muzzle, a wrinkly face, and bat ears. Its body is compact and muscular. In general, Frenchies have smooth, short coats that are easy to care for and require minimum grooming. Because of its short nasal passages, this breed tends to be a mouth breather and consequently drools more than the average dog! Frenchies can also be a bit smelly but there are ways to manage this. Temperament A white French bulldog has the same gentle, friendly temperament as those with other coat colors. They are great dogs to have around children because of their playful , outgoing natures. Being a sociable breed, the Frenchie prefers someone to be around most of the time and does not like to be left alone. Ideal for A white Frenchie can fit into many lifestyles. White French Bulldog names When you own a white French Bulldog, it just has to have a befitting name. Here are a few perfect names: Pure White. What is the White color? There are a total of 6 color variations with white that are recognized by the AKC. Frenchies with pure-white coats will cost more than those with spots of other colors such as black throughout their coat. What White Frenchies look like While you may think that all White Frenchies look the same— this is not the case. As mentioned earlier, there are a few different variations of White French Bulldogs, with some having colors such as Fawn or Black throughout their coat. The Role of Color in Hearing You may be wondering how the color of the coat could affect hearing. A lack of pigment cells The reason for this is that these genes are associated with a lack of pigment cells which give the appearance of their coats. This affects the small hairs in the ear There are small hairs in the inner ear that are called cilia, and when there is an extreme lack of pigment cells, the cilia may not develop properly, resulting in deafness. Hearing tests can rule out deafness If you are interested in a predominantly white French Bulldog or are just concerned about the possibility of your new puppy being deaf, be sure to ask your breeder about performing a BAER test. Test for Health Issues. Are white French Bulldogs all unhealthy? The Genetics The genes that carry color instructions have specific locations loci on the canine chromosomes. Different dog breeds have different color genes. Which is why some colors only happen in some dog breeds. There are just two basic pigments in the canine genome. The first pigment is eumelanin. It is black, but can be diluted or modified when other genes act on it. The second pigment is phaeomelanin. Which expresses in a range of reds from very light cream all the way to deep red. As you might imagine, color genetics can get quite a bit more complicated from here. White vs Albino French Bulldogs There are a number of genetic factors that can contribute to the appearance of a white coat in a French Bulldog. The C series of genes, sometimes called the albino locus, can restrict pigment expression to certain areas. It can also lighten existing pigment. This can result in an all-white French Bulldog with the characteristic pinkish skin, nose and eyes. However, to date, canine researchers have only located the gene responsible for albinism in the Doberman dog breed. No albino gene has yet been found in French Bulldogs A pure true albino French Bulldog would lack pigment in all areas where pigment is normally present. The eyes would look pinkish, blue or amber, depending on how light passes through the iris. The skin would also appear pinkish because the blood vessels show through. A partial albino French Bulldog lacks pigment in only parts of the body. He may display a white single color or other color in the non-affected areas. Leucism looks a lot like albinism. But it is caused by different genes that prevent the pigment cells from doing their job properly. Partial leucism is actually the genetic mechanism behind common canine markings such as the popular piebald color pattern. Or a predominantly white coat with a small percentage of markings of other colors. If those markings are sufficiently light or dilute, this gives the appearance of an all-white, single color coat. Here are some examples from the official French Bulldog Breed Standard of white-coated Frenchies with coat color patterns present: White and brindle Cream ranges from light ivory-white to a more yellow cream Fawn ranges from a very light yellow to a more reddish gold White and fawn Fawn, brindle and white Double Merle Genes There is one more way that a white French Bulldog has a predominantly white coat. One way is for a French Bulldog to inherit the merle color pattern gene from one or both parents. A French Bulldog with one merle gene is called a single merle. This happens when only one parent contributes the merle gene. A double merle occurs when two French Bulldogs carrying the gene for the merle coat color pattern are bred together. This will produce a dog known as a double merle or false white, that can be predominantly white-coated. However, this type of breeding will never be done by reputable breeders. It can create very serious lifelong health issues for the puppies. These include organs and nervous system development, as well as vision and hearing. In fawn or cream coat colors, this can create the appearance of a pure white coat. Piebald Spotting with White Coat A coat that is at least 80 percent white but includes 20 percent other colors on the body is called a piebald spotting. This means each parent dog must contribute these genes in order for them to take effect. The spotting color areas of pigment ranges from breed standard-accepted colors ex. Spotting typically occurs on the face, along the back, rump or around the shoulders. For very light colors like fawn or cream at the light end of each spectrum, the coat may appear to be a single solid or self color. In the extreme white fawn or cream, the visual appearance is often of a single self or solid white coat. These Frenchies may lack pigment in the eyes, nose and mouth. White French Bulldog Health Canine researchers discovered the white coat color is associated with certain health issues. This is typically true across dog breeds because the responsible genes are linked to pigment rather than breed. Deafness Dogs that have all-white or predominantly white coats can inherit hearing loss or deafness in one or both ears. This is called pigment-associated hereditary deafness. It could be cause by a lack of pigment in the inner ear canal. This can occur with the following dogs: White albino dogs White solid self dogs Dogs with the piebald or merle gene that are predominantly white-coated One limited study predicted that white French bulldog puppies have a 25 percent chance of bilateral deafness hearing impaired in both ears. They also have a .Skin Sensitivity Just as light-skinned people tend to be more apt to get sunburned, the same holds true for very light-skinned dogs. With increased incidences of sunburn comes a higher risk for eventual skin cancer. Including skin lesions and tumors. Eye Defects and Blindness Eye defects and disorders can occur with some white French Bulldog coat types. This includes: the possibility for missing eyes smaller-than-normal eyes malformed eyes non-functioning eyes. These defects can occur individually or together in one or both eyes. The merle and double merle gene expressions present the most risk for eye health issues. Developmental Issues The merle and double merle gene expressions can influence the development of major organs and the nervous system. In some cases, French Bulldog puppies are born with severely life-limiting health issues that they do not survive. French Bulldogs shed somewhat all year long but most noticeably during the changing of the seasons. When brushing and grooming your white French Bulldog, know that sometimes white-coated dogs have more sensitive skin. Choose a brush with rounded tips and gentle bristles.