boxer puppies roanoke va

boxer puppies roanoke va

Contact How to Potty Train an English Bulldog in 12 Simple Steps Apart from chewed furniture or scratched doors with a young or untrained English bulldog, coming back to a house that reeks of urine and feces can be utterly distressing. All dogs do not like soiling their usual eating and sleeping areas and are instinctively cleaner. Therefore they learn to not urinate and defecate in their crates which means it is not impossible to potty train them. How to potty train an English bulldog? Begin by designating a potty spot in the yard. Take the English Bulldog to the potty spot every hours to normalize this area for when it needs to potty. English bulldogs are strong-willed, so while they are trainable, it can take some time, persistence, and patience. But in the end, they will be potty training. Why does my English bulldog pee in his bed? Bedwetting is a common problem among dogs, and there is a solution to this. However, before figuring out the solution, it is essential to find out the possible reasons behind it. Dogs will try their best not to soil their sleeping areas. This comes from their wild instinct of keeping their den clean, and if something is going against that instinct, it could be behavioral, emotional, or medical. It is best to consult a veterinarian to rule out any illness behind this unusual behavior. There could be several reasons behind your English bulldog peeing in his bed. Urinary Tract Infection UTI Urinary tract infections are common in dogs and are caused by fungi, bacteria, or parasites in the urinary tract. Urinary infection can increase the frequency of urination, urgency, bloody urine, and improper urination in your dog. Bulldogs are susceptible to urinary tract infections more than other dog breeds. Female English bulldogs are more at risk of getting UTI than males, but male bulldogs can still get them. Your dog does not forget his house training, but the disease makes it quite difficult for your dog to stop the flow of urine when he wants to go. Hormone Responsive Urinary Incontinence Your English bulldog may pee in his bed while sleeping or relaxed. He may not be able to hold his urine that leaks out involuntarily. This is more common in middle-aged spayed female bulldogs. When a female bulldog is spayed, her ovaries are removed, resulting in a decrease in her estrogen production. With a decrease in estrogen, the sphincter becomes relaxed, making them leak urine. The problem gets worse with age. Your English bulldog could also be suffering from separation anxiety. If your dog is left alone at home for long hours, then he can grow extremely distressed and may start urinating and even defecating indoors. To know more about how to help a distressed bulldog read, Is My Bulldog Stressed? And How to Treat It! Territory Marking All dogs do urinary markings out of instinct. Some dogs, including English bulldogs, mark around the house to keep potential intruders at bay. Your dog may start marking inside the house and let out only small amounts of urine in strategic places. Your English bulldog may be insecure about his belongings and may start peeing at different spots in the house to keep others away from them. This usually happens after a new family member, a human, feline, or a canine, is brought to the house. But this is different from wetting their beds. How to Help your Bedwetting English Bulldog? Your English bulldog may feel insecure due to the arrival of a new family member, be it a human or another pet. If your English bulldog pees in bed due to some underlying emotional issue, then observe what happens before bedtime. Take time to note would could be causing this behavior. Many times, simple changes can resolve this issue but if professional help is needed, seek the advice of your vet. If peeing in bed occurs on a regular basis, then I would recommend getting a waterproof bed. A waterproof bed or bed cover will make it easier to clean up, especially if you are training a new pup. Even with a waterproof bed, continue to take your English bulldog outside to potty in the appropriate spot. Shower your dog with praise when it does potty outside. Another wonder help is to use an odor neutralizer on the spots your bulldog pees. This will discourage your English bulldog from peeing inside the house. Potty Training the English Bulldog The first thing to understand when potty training your English bulldog is that there is an immense need for repetition and consistency. An English bulldog should be potty trained when they are young to instill this habit early on. Adult bulldogs may also be given the training. Potty training, an English bulldog puppy, will need some hard work and so be prepared for it. The following tips can be helpful in potty-training your English bulldog. If the puppy has been used to pee pads or newspapers as was done by the breeder for a long time, then the training may be a bit tougher. Take away the newspaper so they are not available for use. Take your English bulldog puppy out every two to three hours for a potty break, especially after naps, meals, playtime, and before going to bed. Choose a safe spot for your puppy that is protected from all elements so that the potty breaks are comfortable. English bulldogs are perpetually hungry, and food motivation can work well with them. Reward your dog with healthy treats when it goes out to the designated spot outside to relieve itself and then comes back inside. As your English bulldog puppy starts growing up, you can increase the time between potty breaks as older dogs have better control over elimination. After the age of 6 months, your English bulldog can quickly go about 4 to 5 hours without needing to go out. English bulldogs are mainly indoor dogs, so they can also be trained to use a big dog litter box inside the house. Look out for signs such as your bulldog walking in circles, sniffing the ground. All these are telltale signs that your English bulldog wants to eliminate and should immediately be taken outside the house. Fix a particular area of your yard as the potty area for your bulldog and take your dog to this area only when you first go outside. Eventually, your bulldog will learn to his business at the same spot, making it easier for you to clean up after him. When your bulldog is finished relieving itself, be quick to reward. An English bulldog thrives off praise, gentle belly rubs, or a dog treat for a job well done. Create a specific place in the house for your English bulldog to potty. Always use positive reinforcements when potty training an English bulldog puppy or an adult dog. Scolding the dog can create fear and a lack of confidence. A dog that is uncomfortable is more likely to have an accident. English bulldog puppies are a powerhouse of energy that have not developed proper control over their bladders. These pups grow fast, eat more, burn calories quickly, and in turn need to eliminate more frequently than their adult English bulldog counterparts. For hard floors, laminate or tile, use absorbent cloth, paper towels, or a mop to absorb the pee. Then clean the surface to remove any lingering residue and smell. Use an enzyme neutralizer that can break down the protein-based molecules in urine that cause bad odors. You can use the same on soft surfaces like carpets and sofas. It is easier to clean on hard floors, but if your English bulldog pees on smooth surfaces like carpet, bed, or a sofa than cleaning can be an uphill task as these surfaces can absorb the pee. If this happens, immediately use napkins and towels to blot out as much pee as you can. Then sprinkle some water and put some drops of mild soap over the spot where your dog peed. Then use another towel to dilute the remaining amount of urine. Sometimes even after you have cleaned the pee, the stench can linger, so what should you do to eliminate them? Removing the odor is essential as your dog will think that the area is an acceptable place to relieve himself. One of the everyday household items that you can use to remove the odor is baking soda. Spread the baking soda all across the damp spot. Remember not to take too much of it. Allow the baking soda to sit overnight and then vacuum all the baking soda thoroughly several times until the area feels clean. Another method uses one more household item, and that is vinegar. Take a spray bottle and mix one cup of white vinegar with one cup of water and two teaspoons of baking soda. Mix the ingredients thoroughly by shaking them up. Then spray this mixture on the stain and allow it to sit for some time. Later blot the area with clean towels or napkins until clean. Vinegar neutralizes the smell of urine without fading the carpets and sofas and is excellent for cleaning and protecting them. English bulldogs are adorable but also have a stubborn streak in them. This can make it difficult to train , especially potty training. Praises and positive reinforcements through voice commands and treats can do the trick. Shouting or raising your voice can be disturbing to an English bulldog. Aggressive behavior from the owner can make the bulldog withdraw, setting back the training, and making him even more stubborn. Remember, positive training will lead to positive results! Post Views: 1, Plenty of wipes and toilet tissue 1. Build a potty-training routine When you first start house training your English Bulldog puppy, you should aim to build a routine around their toileting needs. Luckily, their bladders and bowels are fairly predictable, as they are determined by not only their sleeping pattern, but also what they eat and drink. You should always take your puppy out to the toilet first thing as soon as they wake up — and this goes for whenever they wake up from naps too! As well as taking them out first thing in the morning, you should also take them out last thing at night or before you are going to leave them alone for an extended period of time: this is to prevent any accidents overnight or whilst you are gone! On top of this, you should also aim to take your puppy out to the toilet every thirty minutes to an hour. We actually started up a diary of what our puppy had eaten and and how often and what times he tended to urinate and defecate. Take your English Bulldog outside as soon as you see any signs that they need a pee or poop. All puppies have immature diet systems, which means that each meal tends to stimulate their digestive system faster than it would in adult dogs. Generally, puppies need to urinate within fifteen minutes of eating and defecate within half an hour of eating. Once your dog has finished eating, take away the food bowl until the next scheduled mealtime. This will prevent your puppy from overindulging. Handy Hint: If you need more guidance on how much to feed your English Bully, please click here where I explain how many cups of food is enough for them , plus a feeding chart. You should also ensure that the food you give your puppy is of the higher possible quality — this means avoiding dog food with artificial colours and preservatives and ensuring that real meat is the primary ingredient. Confinement and consistency When your English Bulldog puppy is in the early stages of potty training, it is good to confine to a small area such as a room, a crate or via a lead until you are confident that they can roam the house freely without accidents. Furthermore, consistency goes hand-in-hand with confinement, and it involves introducing your dogs to select areas to toilet in so that, over time, they will learn to associate going to the toilet with that area of the house or outside. A good way to ease your dog into this component of toilet training is via puppy pad training or crate training. Essentially, the purpose of the puppy pad is not only to reduce mess, but also to get your puppy used to the idea of doing their business in an approved, select area indoors an area that is easy to clean up! Overtime, your puppy will learn to associate the pad itself with areas where it is okay to toilet, and at this stage it is good to move the mad outside to help them adapt. You can buy puppy pads on Amazon. Here are the ones we used which also have very good Amazon reviews. Crate training Crates are an effective and approved way of toilet training your English Bulldog puppy at the beginning. It helps to avoid mess, helps you keep a closer eye for signs he needs to go and, most crucially, teaches him to hold it until he is let outside to toilet. Make sure the crate is large enough for the puppy to stand, turn around and lie down but not large enough for them to defecate and urinate in. You can find a suitably-sized crate on Amazon which work well with the English Bulldog breed. Learn to pick up on the signs To avoid accidents in the home, it is good to learn to recognise signs that your English Bulldog needs the toilet. Commons signs include: Sniffing the floor. Looking restless and anxious. Going into an area they have previously toileted in. If your puppy shows any of these signs, take them out to your chosen toileting spot immediately. However, if accidents do happen, it is best to stay calm and not get angry at your puppy, as this will just make them fearful and cause them stress, which will actually result in more random accidents. Use a phrase they will learn to understand One of the most important aspects that goes a long with in potty training your English Bulldog puppy to use a phrase they learn to identify with. By doing so, he would learn to identify the phrase and location with the action. Reward the puppy for a good job When your English Bulldog puppy has finished his pee or poop in the right place, you should give them a reward or positive reinforcement with praise. By rewarding good behavior you will start a pattern of success which can lead to far faster house breaking and training. Never scold them Accidents are going to happen a lot, and whilst this can be frustrating, never shout or scold the puppy. I remember countless times where I would have just cleaned a pee up from the kitchen floor, only for our puppy to crouch and pee again just seconds later. When should I start potty training my English Bulldog puppy? It is generally recommended to start house training your English Bulldog puppy once they are between 12 weeks and 16 weeks old. This is a good age to start because whilst it means that your puppy is still young enough to learn life-long skills and have their behavior moulded, at this stage your puppy should have enough control over their bladder and bowels to hold it when necessary — making the potty training process easier for them, and cleaner for you! How long does it take to potty train an English Bulldog puppy? There are other factors which come into play though, such as individual temperament and environmental factors. Be prepared for accidents, but above all, have some wipes and tissue paper on hand all the time as you will get through a lot of this stuff! Once you have potty and house trained your English Bulldog puppy he will only ever do his business outside. Conclusion Now you know how we advise you housebreak and English Bulldog puppy, I would love to know how you got on. Get in touch via social media and leave a comment. Similarly, if you have better ideas on how to potty train an English Bulldog puppy, please share those in the community too. The bottom line is this; do not underestimate to the work that goes into taking care of a new puppy. Toilet training your puppy might feel a bit difficult at times, but with the right attitude, attentiveness and patience, they will learn this life-long skill. However, if you have any concerns about their ability to toilet train, always contact a vet or a professional trainer. As unlikely as this is, there are some English Bulldogs who will need expert help. You might also like…. Contact Us How to house train a English bulldog puppy the right way The easiest way to go about house training your new bulldog puppy is by utilizing a crate. Dogs are and always have been den and pack animals, they naturally and instinctively prefer the shelter of a den. Therefore most dogs will not urinate or defecate in their crate, which is why it is such an invaluable tool for housebreaking. The first thing to understand, though, is the need for repetition and consistency. Begin by purchasing the appropriate size crate. Think den not condo! It should be small with just enough room for your bulldog to stand up, turn around and lie down comfortably. It is not an exercise pen. The use of too large a crate will encourage your bulldog puppy to use a small portion of it for a bed and the rest of it as a place to potty. We use the Midwest Life Stages crates. Leave the crate door open and allow your bulldog puppy to come and go as he pleases. Keep his favorite treats handy that you only use for the crate. It gives the puppy a nice reason to go in and creates a positive experience. At mealtimes, feed your bulldog in the crate with the door closed. At night, just before bedtime take your bulldog puppy out to potty. Put your puppy in his crate and shut the door. For the first 3 nights set your alarm for 3 hours. Set him down and wait. When he goes potty, praise him and put him back in his crate. Set your alarm for 3 more hours and repeat. After three days, if it has been successful and there have been no accidents, move to 4-hour intervals. After three more nights, you have hopefully taught your puppy that you will be there to take him outside when he has to go. If there have been no accidents you can then start going to bed and waiting until your puppy wakes you up to potty. It is important to respond and take him out immediately if he wakes during the night. In the morning, as soon as you wake up, immediately take your puppy out. By house time, I mean freedom to move about but always in the same room as you so that you can keep a constant eye on him. We use baby gates to block off access to other rooms. During the day repeat the above process and continue to take the puppy out every hour. If he does not do his business put him back in his crate and try again in 15 minutes. NEVER let a bulldog puppy in training out of your site. Use the crate as you would a playpen for a human child. Even if you leave the room for a minute, either take the puppy with you or put him in the crate. If you turn your back for 60 seconds and your puppy has an accident, then you messed up and made a mistake and have missed the opportunity to make a correction and teach the puppy. Do not rub his nose in it and do not use any physical correction! When he goes outside give him lots of praise. Use an odor neutralizer. When an accident occurs it is important to completely remove the odor, otherwise your puppy will gravitate back to the area to relieve himself again. You can buy the neutralizers from most any pet store. Do not use household cleaners, most contain ammonia which will attract him back to the same spot. A Few Tips to Help You Succeed Puppies will need to go potty first thing in the morning, after every meal, as soon as they wake up from naps and just before bedtime. A few hours before bedtime take up his water, this will help buy you a litter more time between potty breaks at night. If you see him smelling a particular spot or circling around, pick him up and take him outside. Keep your puppy on a regular feeding schedule and take away his food between meals. Puppies may not initially like the crate. Some will cry, whine, bark and drive you crazy the first couple of days. Doing so will teach your puppy that if he barks or whines long enough he will get rewarded and this will only encourage the behavior. Training an English bulldog puppy takes time, consistency and patience. Dogs function best with structure, routine, and clear expectations. Share this post. Buy Now on Amazon If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you. If you have access to a backyard, pick out an area where you can take them. Always encourage them and support them when you house train; using passive-aggressive tactics on a dog can create fear and insecurities. What cues will puppies give that they have to go potty? Some begin to sniff the floor. A few spin around in a circle. Some whine, fidget or head for the corner or door in the room. Once you discover the signs or cues your puppy gives, the easier it will be to get him outside at the right time for a potty break. The crate should be large enough for the puppy to turn around in and lay comfortably but not large enough that they can eliminate. If your pup does eliminate itself in the crate, it may be too large. If you start with a larger dog crate, section it off. While potty training, I would simultaneously be crate training. If I were in the immediate vicinity of the puppy and able to be vigilant in watching him, he would be outside the crate. I would also crate train a puppy to sleep in the crate. As they grew and matured, they would go in and out of their crate at their will. Because dogs do not like to relieve themselves in their sleeping area, this made potty training very easy. For one, puppies have small bladders and cannot hold their urine for long, and two; it would be cruel to do so as puppies need socialization. When you bring the puppy out of his crate, take him immediately outside to relieve himself. Once he does, be sure to pour on the praise and positive reinforcement. Take the puppy outside for potty breaks every 2 hours. This has been the method I have used over the years and has been very effective. Start with picking out an area where you want your pup to relieve themselves. Make it a habit to take them to that area to potty every 2 — 3 hours to normalize this. If your English bulldog constantly pees in their bed before getting to the solution, we need to find out the reason behind it. For the most part, your bulldog will try not to pee in their bed. A few more common reasons are urinary tract infection, hormones, emotional issues, and marking territory, which is different from potty training. A UTI in an English bulldog will lead to constant urination, urgency, blood within the urine, and improper urination. Bulldogs are more vulnerable to a UTI than most other dog breeds. The female bulldog is even more at risk than its male counterpart, even though the male can still get them. Your bulldog might be fully house trained, but having a UTI makes it hard for your dog not to urinate when the urge is there, and potty accidents can occur. Hormone Responsive Urinary Incontinence Your bulldog might pee the bed while asleep or just relaxing. This happens more with middle-aged spayed female bulldogs. Getting your female bulldog spayed means her ovaries are removed, bringing down her estrogen production levels. Low estrogen levels make it difficult for your bulldog to control the muscle that allows them to hold its urine. Over time this becomes more prevalent with age. Emotional Issues If you notice your bulldog acting out of the ordinary, they could be experiencing stress, worry, or even anxiety. Even fear, if they are afraid of something or someone at home, they might decide to stay in their bed and not leave to go potty. Some things can make your bulldog insecure; this could be a new family member or another pet. Separation anxiety is another emotion they might be experiencing. If left at home alone for long periods of time, they can become distressed and begin to urinate and leave feces within your home. But if not, a vet visit to rule out medical problems or a consultation with a certified dog trainer might be in order. English bulldogs mark their spot around the house to keep outsiders away. Usually, they start doing this when someone other than the dog owner is brought into the home, maybe a new roommate or guest. This can also happen when a new puppy or adult dog is brought into the home. But be aware that this is not the same as your bulldog wetting the bed. Hardwood Floors and Tile If you have hard floors or tiles, use a strong absorbent cloth, paper towels, or a mop to absorb the urine. You can then clean the surface to remove any lingering smell. Carpet and Furniture Carpet and furniture can absorb the urine once it hits the surface. Once you notice this happening, get some paper towels to absorb what you can from the surface, then spray some water and a few drops of soap over the urine spot. Then get another set of paper towels or napkins to get the rest of the urine you can out. Be sure to spot-check first. Odor After cleaning up after your bulldog, you might still have the smell lingering. You want to remove the odor, or your bulldog will think the area is appropriate to potty again. Baking soda is a helpful product; just spread the baking soda over the area where the urine was located. Let it rest overnight, and then use a vacuum to get the baking soda out. A final tactic you can try is vinegar. If you mix vinegar with some baking soda and put it over where the urine was located, the mixture can neutralize the smell without fading the surface of the carpet or sofa. This is helpful in cleaning and maintaining your furniture. Again, remember to spot-check. You can also find products for this in pet stores or online. Popular Posts.

All dogs are unique and grow at their own rate. Pro Tip: Check out our complete guide to puppy care to ensure your Lab gets off to a great start. As a medium to large breed, Labrador Retrievers need at least one year to reach their full size. A general rule of thumb suggests your Lab should be at or close to its full size by their first birthday. However, bigger-boned Lab puppies can keep growing and filling out their chest up to 18 months old. How big should a 6-month-old Labrador Retriever be? The average Lab weight at six months old is about 40 to 55 pounds for males or 30 to 35 pounds for females. Please keep in mind that these numbers are averages, and every puppy will grow at a slightly different rate. How much bigger will my Labrador Retriever get? There are three ways to predict the size of a Labrador Retriever at maturity: Age. Labrador Retrievers typically reach their full height and weight around their first birthday. Larger Labs may need up to 18 months to fill out their chest, but any weight gain after 12 months should be minimal overall. If your Lab is less than a year old, they are likely still growing and putting on muscle to reach their adult size. Paw Size. If their paws look oversized next to their legs and body, then they are probably still growing, as this is a classic puppy feature. Lastly, if you purchased your Lab through a breeder, you can contact them for a more exact height and weight estimate. What is the size of a full-grown Labrador Retriever? A full-grown Labrador Retriever weighs between 65 and 80 pounds and stands about .The average weight of a full-grown female Labrador Retriever should be about 55 to 70 pounds, standing at .Make sure to consult with your veterinarian to ensure that your Lab is maintaining a healthy weight for its body size. The Labrador Retriever growth rate should be indicative of its athletic body and muscular build. Did you know. ? Their webbed paws made them strong swimmers, along with their otter tail, which acts like a powerful rudder when retrieving ducks. English nobles spotted the dogs and brought them home across the Atlantic, where breeders continued to refine the breed into its own variation. Between their friendly demeanor, adaptability, and outgoing disposition, they make ideal family members. As cherished members of our families, Labs deserve the best care. Unfortunately, like many other purebred dogs, Labrador Retrievers are more susceptible to various health issues. Some of the most common examples include:. As far as their height is concerned, most labs will reach their adult height of 22 to 25 inches 56 to .They will also reach their optimal weight of 64 to 80 pounds 29 to 36 kg by their 15th month. Labrador Retrievers are very food motivated, more so than quite a few other pups. Keeping your pup properly nourished is vital but letting your dog get fluffy is obviously ill-advised. With lots of myths and misconceptions flying around the place, many people believe that neutering or spaying your lab puppy too early will slow down its growth. There are some minor changes here and there, depending on the study, but nothing too significant. How big is the pup compared to the rest of its litter? The average time it takes for a Labrador Retriever to reach its maximum height is about 11 months or less than a year. Some puppies take a bit longer and others do it even sooner. A few weeks of variation are to be expected as long as your vet is certain your pup is healthy. As for the weight, this reaches its potential a bit later — around the 15th month. How can you tell how big a Lab puppy will get? It will also likely have a pretty dominant personality and require an experienced owner. How much do Lab puppies grow each week? In terms of weight, a 3 pound 1. From there, the growth will gradually slow down until the puppy reaches its maximum height around the month mark and its optimal weight around the 15th month. How big is an 8 week old Labrador? How big exactly is such a pup, however? The average 8 week old Labrador should be somewhere between 8 and 12 inches tall at the shoulder 20 to 30 cm with females being an inch or so shorter. As for their weight, that can vary between 10 to 14 pounds 4. We may receive commissions from purchases made via our links. As a dedicated Labrador parent, one of your primary responsibilities is ensuring your pup remains healthy and achieves all growth milestones based on his age. However, some of the most overwhelming factors to crack through are size and weight. So, is your Lab puppy too small for his age? Your Lab puppy might be too small if it weighs less than 12 lbs 5. Lab puppies generally weigh about 2 lbs 1 kg with every week of growth. If your puppy weighs a lot less than that, he may be too small for his age. If you're worried that your pup might be too small for his age, you're in the right place. In this article, I'll outline Lab puppies' size and weight facts to help you understand where your young canine friend stands. Keep reading! In this article How Much a Lab Puppy Should Weigh This is one of the most common concerns and one of the most challenging to address directly. This is because a puppy's weight and size may differ based on his gender, genetic composition, or underlying conditions. However, there's a trick that may help you determine your pup's weight range. In most cases, average puppies add about 2 lbs 1 kg with every week of growth. And just like the weight, Lab puppies have different sizes. You may notice a huge size variance in a litter of Lab puppies. Some may appear too big or too small for their age. Below are 3 factors that can affect a Lab puppy's size and weight. Genetic May Affect Size A canine's size is partially genetic. Therefore, a Lab puppy born of small parents may inherit the genes and appear smaller for his age. However, this isn't always the case because some small-parents puppies sometimes grow into huge dogs. So, it's possible to note a considerable size variance on puppies from the same litter. Diet Greatly Influences Weight A puppy's diet also has a lot to do with his size and weight. Poorly fed puppies may fail to grow properly. Thus they may be low in weight and small in size. When feeding puppies, it isn't always about the amount of food the pup consumes but rather the nutritional value. So, to be on the safe side, it's advisable to consult your vet on the right foods for your pup based on his age. Health Problems Can Inhibit Growth Puppies that have been ill or have underlying conditions may portray slow growth. Their size and weight may be small compared to healthy pups within the same age limit. However, you shouldn't worry about this because such puppies often catch up later after recovery. Note that this chart only gives a weight limit, and it doesn't mean your puppy should weigh precisely that. It's only meant to help you protect your pup's weight and easily point out when he's seriously under or overweight. Between 8 weeks and 10 months, your puppy has a ton of growing to do, and they change drastically from month to month. Each stage of growth requires specific attention, exercise, and diet, so there is much to learn and pay attention to these different growth stages. There may be behavioral challenges while your pup adjusts to their new life without their mother and siblings. This period of adjustment can sometimes lead to fearful and timid behavior, and your puppy will need as much attention and affection as possible. They should be eating 3—4 small meals a day at this stage. You can begin basic command, leash, and potty training at this point too. Although the schedule is not complete this is a critical period to begin socialization and making sure they are calm and friendly with other dogs, just make sure they are also vaccinated. We highly recommend making training a part of their daily activities at this age. Biting can be an issue at this stage too, as they will begin teething, and they will start exploring and chewing whatever they can find. Chew toys and consistent command reinforcement are both vital for avoiding this behavior. The good news is that your puppy will grow out of this habit at around 6 months old. Your lab should also be house-trained by this point, but there may still be the occasional accident. Remember to be gentle but firm when this happens, and your pooch will likely move through it swiftly. They will begin losing their baby teeth at this point, and biting and chewing may reach its peak. Firm but gentle commands, chew toys, and loads of patience are essential at this stage. Your puppy will be testing the limits and may start showing dominance, ignoring known commands, and asserting more independence. You can now drop their meals down to two meals per day, but be sure that they are not eating too quickly. Your puppy will start to closely resemble an adult at 6 months, but remember that mentally, they are still puppies and will need loads of direction and training. Females may enter their first heat at 6—7 months, so keep a careful watch for stray males. They will still display puppy tendencies and traits and have a ton of excitable energy, but they should be fairly obedient and well-trained by this stage. Be sure to give your Labrador plenty of exercise at this stage to help keep them from misbehavior. They will have reached their full height by now but may still gain weight and muscle mass in the coming months. Unless you intend on breeding, you should consider neutering and spaying your puppy to avoid wandering and unwanted pregnancies. While some breeders recommend that you wait until a year old, this is a perfectly suitable time to perform the procedure. They may still gain weight and muscle mass but much slower than during the past few months. They will still display puppy characteristics and even test boundaries, but all in all, they should be obedient and well-trained by now. They will have a ton of energy and still enjoy playtimes and loads of exercise. While they are at their full height at this age, some Labs may appear lanky and still have weight to fill out in the coming months. When Do Labradors Stop Growing? All dogs are unique, and the question of when they stop growing is largely dependent on the individual. Anecdotally, your Lab should have reached their full weight by 18 months and full height by 9—12 months. Most breeders agree that your Lab will stop growing at some point during their second year. Even so, any weight gain during their second year will be minimal, and they will have done the majority of their growth by their first birthday. Mentally, they are out of the puppyhood phase of testing boundaries and disobedience by their first year— if correctly trained. If you have been consistent in training thus far, your Lab should be friendly, obedient, and well-behaved from their first birthday and into adulthood. In males, neutering can sometimes result in a calmer, more relaxed dog, and this, in turn, will slow down his need for exercise and may result in weight gain. A study in showed that dogs neutered before 37 weeks may gain more weight, while dogs that had the procedure after 37 weeks had a slower growth trajectory. The difference was minimal, though, and there is no reason to assume that these procedures have much of an effect on growth rates in dogs. Dangers of Growing Too Quickly or Stunted Growth While some puppies may grow quicker or slower than the agreed-upon average, this is usually nothing to be concerned about due to the individual and unique nature of dogs. However, if your pooch is gaining weight rapidly or not gaining enough, there may be deeper issues to look into. If your dog is from working or hunting stock, they may be smaller than average Labs and are usually lighter for work in the field. Size may also be genetic, and if your Lab comes from small parents, they will be smaller than average. The same may be true of heavier-than-average Labs—if their parents are large, they will likely be similar in size. However, larger-than-average weights may also be due to overfeeding or a lack of exercise , or a combination of both, so be sure to keep their exercise and feeding habits consistent. Image Credit: rebeccaashworth, Shutterstock Growth Distinctions of Different Labradors Although they are designated under the same breed, there are two different types of common Labradors: English and American. English Labradors tend to be stockier and more muscular than their American counterparts and have a thick, waterproof coat , while American Labs have a slender build with a slightly finer coat. English Labs are slightly shorter, topping out at around 22 inches, but their stocky and muscular build often makes them heavier than American Labs. In fact, English Labs have been known to weigh up to 20 pounds more than American Labs without being considered overweight. American Labs are known to be slightly more active and energetic than English Labs, while English Labs tend to be less excitable and more laid back. English Labs are by no means lazy, though, and they still have plenty of energy and stamina to go around. Conclusion: Monthly Labrador Growth Pictures Hopefully, this guide has helped you understand the growth rate of your Labrador puppy and given you a better idea of what to expect during the different stages. See also:. Labrador puppy weight. It can be hard to know what the right weight is for your specific pup. An American Lab is likely to weigh less than an English Lab in general, but not always! How much do Labs weigh in general? Male Labradors weigh between 60lbs and 80lbs, while females weigh in at between 55lbs and 75lbs. But many healthy Labradors fall outside these averages. As you can see, there is quite a range! Labrador Puppy Weight Lots of our readers want to know how much should my Labrador weigh at this age or that age. Labrador puppies are growing fast, and their weight is constantly changing. We used the data from our forum to create the Lab weight chart below. If you want a rough idea of how much your pup should weigh at different stages of their young life, just compare them to this chart and see how they match up. But remember, average Labrador weight is not totally straight forward… Average Labrador Weight Labradors come in a wide variety of sizes. So average Labrador Retriever weight figures can be misleading. As a very rough guide an adult female Labrador might weigh between 55 and 70lbs. An adult male Lab will weigh 65 — 80lbs. Female Lab weight will on average be lower than male Lab weight, but as you can see there is a considerable cross over. But Labradors also come in a couple of different types, and his type will have an impact upon his ideal Labrador weight. English Labs bred from show lines are likely to be at the upper end of the scale. You can expect English Lab weight to be around 60 — 70 lbs for a female and 70 — 80 lbs for a male. Some of our chunkier, show bred Labs can be a good twenty pounds or more heavier than their field bred cousins, without necessarily being overweight. Whereas the American Lab who is field bred is likely to be at the lower end of average. Volume for volume, muscle weighs more. So it is worth bearing in mind, that a very fit dog will have more muscle and may weigh more than an unfit dog of similar dimensions. Black Lab Weight In theory there should be no difference in weight between Labradors of different colors. Black Labrador weight for an English black Lab will probably be at the higher end of the range, for an American black Lab it will likely be lower. Black Labs are frequently found in both these categories, but some Lab colors differ. For example the chocolates. Chocolate Lab Weight Chocolate Labs are more likely to be show bred than field bred. English Labs weigh more than American Labs in general, and may therefore be at the higher end of average when it comes to weight. This is because yellow Labs are commonly found in both categories. White Labs are more likely to be English Labs, and will therefore probably be at the heavier end of the scale. Fox red Labs are normally American Labs, and will often be thinner in build and therefore lighter in weight. The way to effectively judge whether your Lab is at an ideal weight is not through the scales. It is by feel and appearance. You should not be able to see ribs, but if you press firmly along his sides you should just be able to feel your fingers bumping along them. But in most cases it really is not necessary to weigh your puppy every day, or even every week! Any more than you would weigh your three year old child on a daily or even weekly basis. There are however, some exceptions. Very thin puppies Occasionally we have people post up about puppies that are desperately underweight and clearly failing to thrive. Most of these comments come from people that have purchased puppies that are not ready to leave their mothers, and should not have been sold by the breeder. Some of these puppies are as young as three weeks old. If you have inadvertently been sucked into this horrible trade in underage puppies, do contact a vet for help with feeding your puppy, as a matter of urgency. If you are concerned that your puppy might be seriously underweight, again, your vet is the first port of call. As a very rough guide, many Labrador puppies will weigh around a kilo for every week of their lives. So you would expect a ten week puppy to weigh something in the region of ten kilos or around twenty-two pounds. A twenty percent variation around this would be fairly normal. If your puppy falls outside this variation he may still be perfectly healthy, but if you are inexperienced, a check with the vet is a good way to put your mind at rest. Should I Weigh My Dog? You may need to weigh your dog if he needs medical treatment. Determining the appropriate dose of some drugs requires that we know the exact weight of the patient. But in this case your veterinarian will probably do it for you at their check-ups and assessments. The main reasons to weigh a dog are loss or gain. Trying to put weight on a very thin puppy? You may want to check your progress with regular weigh-ins for a while to make sure they are sufficiently gaining weight. Trying to help your adult Labrador weight decrease? Checking their weight each week will help you to know that you are succeeding, along with visual checks. How to weigh a dog If you need to weigh a puppy, and he is small enough to hold in your arms, you can do this at home. Just weigh yourself on the bathroom scales without him, then weigh yourself again whilst holding the dog, and subtract the first weight from the second. This is accurate enough for most purposes. Larger dogs will need to be weighed on purpose built scales. Most vet surgeries have one in the waiting room, and some pet stores have them too. Really tiny dogs can be weighed accurately on a good sized set of kitchen scales. For once, this is a situation where appearances really do count. Try to get into the habit of looking at your dog objectively and of avoiding comparing with other dogs, many of whom will be overweight. You may find that some other dog owners will tell you your nice slim Labrador is actually too thin. This happens a lot, largely because people are simply getting used to so many dogs being overweight, including some of those receiving the highest accolades in our show rings. Again, if you are worried, check with your vet, but the chances are if someone is telling you this that actually your dog is healthy, and it is really their dog who is overweight. The Lab puppy weight chart shows you the average weight for male and female Labs every month from 2 months old, up until 12 months if you have a puppy Lab, check out our New Puppy Checklist to learn more about what to bring home for your first 24 hours and beyond. Doing so helps you and your veterinarian keep your puppy healthy. Are There Different Sizes of Labradors? Among the retriever breeds, the Labrador is one of the largest, where an adult male can top the scales at 80 pounds. Labrador Retrievers may differ in size due to individual variation and outside influences, such as the amount or type of food they eat, the amount or frequency of exercise they get, or underlying health conditions that may affect appetite or growth. But overall, a retriever should ideally hit a 5 out of 9 on the body condition score, regardless of the actual weight number on a scale. A healthy size Labrador has an evident abdominal tuck and observable waist, viewed from both the side and top of the dog. The AKC considers Lab puppies to be in adulthood when they reach 12 to 18 months of age, though there are outliers — those who grow faster or slower, reaching maturity either before 1 year old or not until 2 years old. Like other large dog breeds, Labs go through multiple stages of puppyhood until they reach adulthood. The average height for Labrador puppies is largely unknown due to insufficient data, but the average adult Labrador Retriever gets to be about inches tall at the shoulder. These numbers are contingent on the puppy receiving top-notch care, good nutrition, and appropriate levels of exercise. Different factors, such as health, breeding practices, and nutrition, may alter these estimated numbers. The below Labrador weight calculator can help you determine approximately how big your Labrador will be. But there are dogs who will fall outside of these parameters. The Waltham Petcare Science Institute offers puppy growth charts for veterinarians to use with their clients. You can also learn more about the ideal size and weight at different ages for different breeds with our Goldendoodle growth chart , a Golden Retriever size chart , Great Dane growth chart , or Chihuahua size chart. For that advice, consult your veterinarian.

Crate training will have many benefits for your bulldog, including protecting him from household hazards and reducing his separation anxiety. It should be either 24 x 30 inches 61 x 76 cm or 24 x 36 inches 61 x 91 cm for a French bulldog, and either 42 x 30 inches x 76 cm or 42 x 36 inches x 91 cm for an American bulldog. This will allow you to increase the crate space as your puppy grows into an adult. The crate should be a place of safety and comfort for your bulldog. Place his favorite blanket and toys in the crate. You can also place a quilt or sheet over the crate to make it feel like a cozy den. A bowl would preferable, since he wouldn't be able to pull it out of the crate very easily. Leave the door open during the early stages of crate training so he can explore the crate at his leisure. Once your bulldog is comfortable entering the crate on his own, work on closing its door behind him. Start with closing the door for only a few seconds and then letting him out. If he starts whining or crying, wait until he calms down before opening the door. When he can handle a few seconds, close the door, leave the room, and return after random lengths of time e. Remember that puppies cannot hold their bladders for very long, so you should not leave your puppy bulldog in the crate for long time periods. The AKC advocates for the responsible ownership of dogs and promotes purebred dog events, such as the Westminster Dog Show. Go to source When you are home, spend time with your bulldog while he is in the crate. Bulldogs are friendly and sociable dogs; interacting with your bulldog will keep him from getting lonely. Always remember that the crate is a place of safety and comfort, not punishment. Your bulldog should always have a positive association with the crate. Image used with permission by copyright holder How long does it take to potty train an English bulldog? Training an English bulldog to obey any command takes time and effort. Just like some human children learn new skills quickly, some dogs pick up new commands with ease. On the flip side, some dogs — like some children — require a bit more time before they master a new ability. A housebroken puppy makes for a clean, happy home When your bulldog puppy reaches the 12 to 16 week mark , you can begin potty training in earnest. It takes approximately four to six months to completely potty train a bulldog puppy, though the process may last a shorter — or longer — duration depending on your dog. Simple training sessions, such as teaching your fur baby not to chew on your shoes or engage in aggressive play, can begin around the 12 to week mark. Image used with permission by copyright holder How do I discipline my English bulldog puppy? Disciplining your puppy can be difficult. What they do know is that their pet parent is frightening them , which can actually lead them to misbehave more often than they already do. So, how should you discipline your puppy? If that fails, redirect his attention using a noise device like a shake can. Some puppies become anxious in response to loud noises. If your dog is one of them, discontinue your use of the shake can and switch to an alternative method, such as distracting your pup from chewing on your shoes with a pet-safe chew toy. Image used with permission by copyright holder Training any dog requires consistency, time, and effort. Even notoriously stubborn breeds like English bulldogs respond to firm rules, a strict schedule, and being rewarded with lots of praise and affection. Bulldogs are more likely to be deaf than other breeds, so you may need to teach him using hand signals. Editors' Recommendations. Train your Frenchie here! You should start training your French Bulldog puppy as soon as you get them home. Puppy brains are a lot bigger than we think — they soak up so much good information despite their young age. French Bulldogs can be a rather independent breed of dog. In fact, we sometimes might feel like we need them more than they need us! What age can I start to train my French Bulldog puppy? You can start training your French Bulldog puppy as soon as you get them home. Build positive training experiences with Zigzag! We can start you off with a personalised training programme straight away in the Zigzag puppy training app , in fact, you can even use it before you bring your Frenchie puppy home as we have a pre-puppy section. Before bringing your French Bulldog puppy home, you can also get in touch with our Zigzag puppy experts with any of the many questions you may have! While blingy collars and outfits might be top of the list, there are some more sensible things you need to get your French Bulldog puppy that will help with your training. Here are my top picks for getting prepared for training your Frenchie. My favourite all-rounder is the Rapid Rewards treat pouch , it comes in many colours and looks stylish when on. The Mikki treat pouch is also good and a bit cheaper. You can go to town and choose pretty colours and designs for Frenchies! A lead — Around 2m is a good length for a lead. A training lead is a good idea as you can change the lengths of them to suit. A comfortable mat or a piece of non-slip vet bed. Treats The more smelly, the better. Have a look at the best puppy treats here. Chews and chew toys — lots of them! Our faves for Frenchies are West Paw Toppl and hollow buffalo horns for stuffing food into, and cow ears and pizzles for edible chews. Two identical toys : Excellent for swaps — your French Bulldog puppy will be super playful and enjoy the retrieving games in the Zigzag app. Originally, French Bulldogs were bred from English Bulldogs, who had a shady past as bull-baiting dogs. People enjoyed their cheerful nature and kept them as companion dogs after these awful blood sports were prohibited. When the need for these workers declined in England, their skills were still required in France, so the workers relocated, bringing their dogs with them. Relocate your training to Zigzag! When they arrived in France, they were adored by shopkeepers, butchers, and, most infamously, Les Belles de Nuit — the ladies of the night! What does this have to do with how I train my French Bulldog? Knowing the characteristics of the breed will help you better train your Frenchie puppy and understand why they behave the way they do. Here are a few things to keep in mind: Frenchies are incredibly loving and enjoy being in the spotlight. They can have a lot of energy possibly even more than a lot of energy and enjoy an active home life. Lack of stimulation WILL foster self-employment; provide them with items to rip up and pull apart to keep them out of trouble. By the way, if you leave them to it, they WILL go into your recycling and have a field day. Frenchies often think they are big dogs, thus they often do well playing with dogs larger than them. They look dashing in them too! Easy Bulldog Training Step-by-Step Guide Bulldog training may seem daunting when you first get that adorable puppy, that is why this guide will break down the process in simple and easy to follow steps. The secret to a well-behaved bulldog is to start with training as early as you adopt him. Early training helps the puppy better develop his brain and habits potty training, leash training, socialization and more! Bulldogs as pets are a great choice because they are a happy and relaxed breed. This was a cruel sport that was, fortunately, banned almost years ago. The breed retains its strength but has become a calm and amusing breed. I have personally worked with many bulldogs and non of them were stubborn at all. The stubbornness of a dog comes from not understanding its owner. The training methods outlined below will help you communicate with your bulldog successfully! As you train, keep an eye for some common British bulldog health problems like respiratory problems, overheating and skin allergies. Bulldog training can be fun and easy! Bulldog Puppy Socialization Socialization is the single most important exercise you need to do with your puppy and you have only a few months to work on it. It involves showing your puppy the world he will be living in and making positive associations with the things, animals and people in it. Every single new event, person, animal, object or sound your puppy encounters should be followed by a treat. This will make every association positive and you puppy will learn no to be fearful of new things. Learn more about socialization exercises for your bulldog puppy dog. Bulldog Potty Training Probably the second most important task is to teach your bulldog puppy to potty in one place or outside. Puppies are very smart and can learn simple things very easily. Potty training requires patience and perseverance. The main idea is to create a schedule or habit for your puppy to follow. A bulldog puppy can hold his bladder 1 hour for every month of life tops! If he has accidents, simply clean them up with an enzymatic cleaner and move on, do not punish your bulldog. Learn more about potty training schedules and techniques to teach your bulldog to potty outside in as little as one week! Teaching your bulldog puppy to moderate his biting Puppies are curious creatures and they like to explore the world with their mouth! This means that your puppy may want to bite your hands, shoes, pants, couch, table legs and even walls! There are two important things to teach your puppy about mouthing: To bite gently without hurting you , To chew only his own toys. Crate training your bulldog puppy can also help prevent home destruction and teach your puppy that the only things available for biting are his own dog toys. They are smart dogs that can learn as much as any other dog breed. Follow these steps to teach your bulldog the basics of obedience training. Positive Bulldog Training Positive bulldog training is about rewarding your dog for doing something right and ignoring your dog when he does something wrong. Positive training also involves actively teaching your pooch the things you would like him to do instead of expecting him to know on his own. There are two training methods that are very useful to teach your furry friend obedience: luring and capturing. That is why punishing or rewarding a dog for something he did in the past does not work. To help with timing, dog trainers use a marker word or a clicker. A marker word is used to mark the moment the animal did something correct and it is followed by a treat. The use of the word helps you have better timing, which in turn helps your bulldog understand what you are rewarding for faster. To teach your pooch the meaning of a marker word, all you need to do is say it and follow with the delivery of a treat. Good boy! Practice repetitions, 2 to 3 times a day and you will notice that your pooch will start responding when he hears that magic word! Bulldog training STEP 2: Teaching your bulldog its name One of the most important things to teach your bulldog is its name. This is always neglected, you name your bulldog, then assume he will understand that is they way you call him. Unfortunately, this is not true and recognizing its name is one of the most important things a dog should know. If your puppy doesn't look at you when you call him, how is he going to do what you ask? Teaching a dog its name is super easy, here are the steps: Say your bulldog's name As soon as he looks at you, say your marker word or click! Immediately afterwards, give him a treat! Repeat many times and in different places and situations. Bulldog training STEP 3: Teaching your bulldog basic obedience commands Now comes the fun part, training your bulldog to respond to basic commands. Contact Us How to house train a English bulldog puppy the right way The easiest way to go about house training your new bulldog puppy is by utilizing a crate. Dogs are and always have been den and pack animals, they naturally and instinctively prefer the shelter of a den. Therefore most dogs will not urinate or defecate in their crate, which is why it is such an invaluable tool for housebreaking. The first thing to understand, though, is the need for repetition and consistency. Begin by purchasing the appropriate size crate. Think den not condo! It should be small with just enough room for your bulldog to stand up, turn around and lie down comfortably. It is not an exercise pen. The use of too large a crate will encourage your bulldog puppy to use a small portion of it for a bed and the rest of it as a place to potty. We use the Midwest Life Stages crates. Leave the crate door open and allow your bulldog puppy to come and go as he pleases. Keep his favorite treats handy that you only use for the crate. It gives the puppy a nice reason to go in and creates a positive experience. At mealtimes, feed your bulldog in the crate with the door closed. At night, just before bedtime take your bulldog puppy out to potty. Put your puppy in his crate and shut the door. For the first 3 nights set your alarm for 3 hours. Set him down and wait. When he goes potty, praise him and put him back in his crate. Set your alarm for 3 more hours and repeat. After three days, if it has been successful and there have been no accidents, move to 4-hour intervals. After three more nights, you have hopefully taught your puppy that you will be there to take him outside when he has to go. If there have been no accidents you can then start going to bed and waiting until your puppy wakes you up to potty. It is important to respond and take him out immediately if he wakes during the night. In the morning, as soon as you wake up, immediately take your puppy out. By house time, I mean freedom to move about but always in the same room as you so that you can keep a constant eye on him. We use baby gates to block off access to other rooms. During the day repeat the above process and continue to take the puppy out every hour. If he does not do his business put him back in his crate and try again in 15 minutes. NEVER let a bulldog puppy in training out of your site. Use the crate as you would a playpen for a human child. Even if you leave the room for a minute, either take the puppy with you or put him in the crate. If you turn your back for 60 seconds and your puppy has an accident, then you messed up and made a mistake and have missed the opportunity to make a correction and teach the puppy. Do not rub his nose in it and do not use any physical correction! When he goes outside give him lots of praise. Use an odor neutralizer. When an accident occurs it is important to completely remove the odor, otherwise your puppy will gravitate back to the area to relieve himself again. You can buy the neutralizers from most any pet store. Do not use household cleaners, most contain ammonia which will attract him back to the same spot. A Few Tips to Help You Succeed Puppies will need to go potty first thing in the morning, after every meal, as soon as they wake up from naps and just before bedtime. A few hours before bedtime take up his water, this will help buy you a litter more time between potty breaks at night. If you see him smelling a particular spot or circling around, pick him up and take him outside. Keep your puppy on a regular feeding schedule and take away his food between meals. Puppies may not initially like the crate. Some will cry, whine, bark and drive you crazy the first couple of days. Doing so will teach your puppy that if he barks or whines long enough he will get rewarded and this will only encourage the behavior. Training an English bulldog puppy takes time, consistency and patience. Dogs function best with structure, routine, and clear expectations. Share this post.

My first litter was a complete success! My girl, Gheera, gave birth to 10 healthy, smart, well-built, puppies. At East German Shepherd Kennel Vom Laudenbach, our hobby is the German Shepherd dog, which as a friend and family member, is a main part of our daily life. Our dogs live with us as family members in the house, but they are also used to kennels. The dogs are with us all day, are well socialized, and they love to be taken everywhere. What is fascinating about them is their charisma, body structure, nature and their strong will. The DDR Shepherd dog often takes significantly more time to mature then others. We strive to breed healthy, strong-nerved, performance-related dogs that are suitable for dog sports as well as for the family. Puppies from our breeding program are only given to capable and loving hands. We breed dogs with a balanced nature and absolute family loyalty. We want our puppies to have a long, healthy and happy life with their humans. Therefore, if you choose a puppy from us, you have to consider that the German Shepherd is a working dog and therefore it definitely needs training, structure and a job. If you are interested in a puppy from our DDR breeding, please email me a message in which you briefly describe yourself and your environment pictures are always welcome. Our dogs are purely for lovers and we definitely want to know more about our puppy's future home and family! Contact Us for Details on Our Puppies! After the surrender of Germany at the conclusion of the war, Berlin and the remaining German territory was partitioned into four occupation zones by the Allied forces. Strict breeding criteria was put in place and breed wardens aggressively culled dogs with any sign of hip dysplasia or weak temperament. DDR dogs were bred for power and athleticism , with straight toplines and large, strong heads. Breed wardens inspected every litter for proper dentition, temperament, bone structure, ear set, coat quality, and total overall appearance. Males with undescended testicles were culled. While West German dogs were tested over five-foot angled walls, East German dogs were required to scale straight six-foot walls. West German dogs searched six blinds, DDR dogs searched ten blinds. West German tracking tests included eight corners and angles, DDR tracking tests included .The DDR border patrol dogs served as sentries, tracking dogs, and attack dogs. Special units were formed to track deserters over large expanses of countryside. When the German borders were opened in the need for guards and guard dogs ended. Within five months of the border opening half of the 50, guards had been dismissed with the remainder retained to dismantle the border fortifications. Many of the DDR dogs were sold, abandoned, or put down. Today, Vom Banach K9 is one of a small number of dedicated breeders worldwide actively preserving the DDR lineage and its physical soundness and structure, intelligence, working abilities, natural drive, highly developed tracking abilities , temperament, and devotion to their handler. Quick Find. Contact info by Ricardo E. Perhaps we will see the day when fashion gives way to balance and the Golden Middle rises supreme, not as a choice among many, but rather as the only sensible option. In the meantime, on the eve of the centennial celebration of the "king of breeds" on this earth, let us remember the final plea of its founder, Max von Stephanitz's last words to his good friend Muller on his deathbed, "Take this trouble for me: make sure my German Shepherd Dog remains a WORKING dog, for I have struggled all my life long for that aim". He brings back the old-style heavy bone type along with tremendous working abilities. He has the legendary look of the East German bloodlines along with the superior temperament and performance qualities of the West German working lines. Transitions between active and passive behavior perfectly on command. Shows an excellent relationship with his handler in obedience with reliable fast reactions to the commands. Steady and sure, impossible to find fault, always full of self-confidence with nerves of steel. But he pulled it together and earned a nice score of .He finished his CD title, then moved up to the Graduate Novice class. He earned two legs for that title. One with second place and the other with first place. Both with first place and very nice scores. He was also High in trial for protection. PS1 .All of this in the rain and on a feild and decoy he has never worked on. The obedience was not quite up to par with the rain .Nice job 3 titles in 3 months. He earned his PS3 title with second place and a very nice protection score .We are very proud of him working two days in a row and adding two high level titles at his young age. We were very please how he handled having 3 judges on field and all of them very close in their scores.

Once adopted we can transport to you. We have a cost effective transporter that has stops in most north eastern states. She runs every 2 weeks. Please note! Don't just apply just because she has a cheap adopt fee. You must prove you can afford to adopt regardless! I find that most of the folks who apply for my reduced fee dogs back out when they realize they are still responsible for the transport fee. If this applies to you please don't waste our time! Scarlett was born .Her mom was a german shepherd golden mix. We are not positive what dad was. Scarlett is active and very loving. She is good with people and ok with other dogs her size. She is too playful for small dogs. She needs a large dog only home. She is NOT good with cats. She needs an active home with room to run. She would not do well in a cramped up apartment with no exercise. She is house trained and crate trained,This baby will go home spayed and current on vaccinations, deworming, flea preventives, started on heartworm prevention and microchipped. This pup will receive a health certificate issued by our vet prior to going home. The adopter will get all his health records with the adoption. We require a prescreen application to apply. You can get that on our main website at www. Sponsor Meet Stella The first step in our adoption process is the application. Completed applications take priority over inquiries. Stella is a sweet, gorgeous, 4 year old female German Shepherd. She came into rescue when she wandered up to a strangers house, filthy and starving, and refused to leave. We attempted to find her former owners, and but no one claimed her. She has successfully completed heartworm treatment, has gained a good amount of weight, and now has a clean bill of health! Stella is good with other dogs, large and small, male and female. Stella is toy motivated, eager to please, and has fantastic eye contact and focus. She knows basic commands, but could definitely use a little leash work. She loves to play with her foster brothers and sister, and is moderately active overall, so will need a home willing and able to provide proper exercise and stimulation. As with all of our dogs, we recommend a basic obedience class to help her understand what is expected of her, and this also helps with the bonding process. There are no additional fees. We do not adopt to anyone under the age of .Considering Stella for adoption?

We were founded to save Houston area German Shepherd Dogs from neglect, abuse, abandonment and euthanization at high kill shelters. We are an excellent alternative for owners who must give up their cherished pets. Our team of tireless volunteers care for our foster dogs as family. We are based on the concept of placing all our dogs into loving foster homes, where they live with and become part of our fosters family until they find a forever home. Every dog in our care receives proper medical care, nourishment and the socialization needed to discover a new life without hunger, sickness, loneliness, or fear. We live to see these German Shepherds blossom as they realize that they are important to someone who genuinely loves having them as family. We are the guardians of the dogs and funds that you trust us to protect. Our entire organization is comprised of dedicated animal loving people who receive no compensation for their countless volunteer hours. We joined this team for the camaraderie and joy we get from working together to help man's best friends in the most important journey of their lives. Let us know! We are always looking for volunteers to help us make our vision a reality. We'll help you find a way to volunteer that best suits you. We're excited to have you join the team! Find out more about volunteering Thank You Whether you help through monetary donations, volunteering your time, or spreading our mission through word-of-mouth, thank you. We couldn't accomplish our goals without the help of supporters like you. Together, we can make a difference. We decided to form Lucky Shepherds from the belief that our society can never have too many animal advocates. Great rescue folks come from every walk of life. Each day gives us examples worldwide of rich and poor alike making personal sacrifices to help protect and shelter the forgotten and unwanted animals sharing our planet. Every political, economic, gender and race recognize equally the need to protect and cherish the joy that saving one dog can bring to each of us. Rescue work is a rare area of our society where we can truly come together and accomplish great works regardless of our worldly views. We will respect, appreciate, learn from and assist our fellow Houston area animal rescues whenever and however possible. There will always be more dogs than we can save as individual rescues. Working together in a collaborative, competent and organized manner benefits the dogs we serve as well as the good natured people who choose to give us their most cherished, non-replaceable resource, the time they volunteer with our organizations. We owe it to our volunteers to work together as efficiently and effectively as humanly possible. Our rescue strives to offer the support structure and organizational planning to ensure that our volunteers can focus on the rewarding side of our rescue without having to recreate the wheel on every mission. We all support each other in the village concept and never forget that it is our responsibility to create as rewarding of a volunteer experience as possible for those willing to give their time to our rescue. We do not have a brick and mortar shelter to house dogs that we take in. All of our dogs live in an approved animal loving foster home. Our foster families welcome each new Lucky Shepherd into their home as a part of their family. The foster families show these incoming dogs the love, nurturing and nutrition that most of them have never known. Our rescue provides the needed medical care, food and ongoing preventative care. All of our dogs are spayed or neutered, microchipped and brought up to date on all of their vaccinations and immunizations before we place them up for adoption. Almost every shelter dog rescued will cost our rescue far more than the adoption fee we collect. We need funding to keep this rescue open. Please donate to us if you can. We operate this rescue with sound business judgement and respect for our donors and the funds they trust us to manage. The money that you give us will be used to support the dogs in our care. Thank you for your interest in our rescue. Please click the web page link for more information on our program. She makes very little noise at all. Inside, there might be the occasional audible sigh when she is trying to communicate something. She is so well-behaved at home. She does not go to the bathroom in the house and thinks that pee pee pads are for resting on. She loves going for rides in the car and also enjoys meal time- she is food motivated! She prefers being with the company of her humans. A good licky mat and calming treats keep her occupied when left alone at home and when she is bored with that, she will just wait by the door until your return. She responds pretty well to a firm tone, She sometimes gets extra excited when she sees other dogs so be mindful when walking her on leash because she will occasionally grumble. I take her on short walks in the morning, evening and sometimes late afternoon and then one longer walk when I can. As far as people go, she is not shy — Champagne is very comfortable going right up to anyone and smelling them. She is excited to go out and she gets playful when you are trying to put her harness on. But she definitely does not play rough. She will make someone a very sweet, gentle companion!!

Home Page I , like so many others, am in love with the bully breeds and had always dreamt of having an English bulldog of my own. As I got more serious about making that dream a reality, I started to do a lot of research. Out of all of the various types of bulldogs that I came across, the Leavitt breed satisfied everything that I was looking for: a beautiful dog with a sound skeletal structure, no respiratory concerns, longer lifespan, willing and able to do whatever you ask of them, and an excellent family companion. They are stunning and well proportioned with great athleticism. They are eager to please and have a fantastic temperament which makes this breed a wonderful addition to any family. They are gentle and tolerant of children of all ages. The Leavitt Bulldog is extremely intelligent, quick to learn and very alert. She followed me as I developed our methods and breeding program and was so excited for all of what she was seeing me do. Once I produced our first litter she came over with her daughter to socialize our puppies and fell in love! Her family ended up bringing home their first girl, Daisy, and since then has decided to partner with me in producing these amazing bulldogs. I wrote about working with dogs and horses. Although I became a hairstylist and salon owner for over 20 years which is where I met Melissa. Who knew all of these years later our paths would cross again in this manner?! I knew my passion was still with animals. When the opportunity presented itself, I got out of hair and into puppies! My first dog as an adult was a boxer. She had horrible allergies and other health problems. I tried everything to make her more comfortable, but nothing seemed to work. After she died, I was determined to figure out what to do with my next dog in order to help her live a longer and healthier life. Nobody I knew was feeding in this way, but something about it seemed right so I went for it and experienced success. From there, I started learning about holistic health care and all of the things I wish I could have done for my first dog. Melissa has been amazing in teaching me how to breed in this way as well. She has created an amazing program with a circle of like-minded people who are constantly fine tuning our efforts. I truly LOVE these puppies and think of them all as my own. All of our dogs are raised on a balanced raw diet and are given only the best in holistic health care. They are members of our family and always in our home with us. The dogs in our breeding program are all registered with the LBA. We breed only Old English Bulldogs from the Leavitt bloodlines and they are bred for good health and a sound temperament. They must be health screened with genetic testing and hip and elbow x-rayed before being approved for breeding. We also firmly believe that the first 12 weeks of a puppies life are the most crucial in setting in place a firm foundation from which they can grow to their full potential. Because of this, we implement the Puppy Culture program with each and every one of our litters. If you have any questions or would like to get more information, please fill out the form on our contact page. He is well balanced and proportioned, with no features exaggerated or standing out. He has the appearance of a dog capable of doing his original job, bull baiting. The OEB head is prominent and dramatic. The cheeks are large, well developed and display powerful jaw muscles. A slightly wrinkled forehead is acceptable. There is a crease from the stop to the occiput. It has a narrow skull and domed forehead. The muzzle is square, wide and deep, with definite layback. Distance from the tip of the nose to the stop does not exceed one-third of the distance from the tip of the nose to the occiput. Height of the muzzle from the bottom of the chin to the top of the muzzle is equal to or greater than the length of the muzzle, thus producing the deep, square muzzle. There is slight to moderate wrinkle on the muzzle. Flews are semi-pendulous. The bite is undershot and horizontally straight. Lower jawbone is moderately curved from front to back. Eyes are round to almond-shape and medium sized. They are set wide apart, with the outside corner of the eye intersecting with the outside line of the skull and are set low, at the level of the muzzle, where the stop and muzzle intersect. Eye color is brown, with black pigmented eye rims. Canine teeth are large. Broken, chipped or extracted teeth are acceptable. There are 6 corn row teeth between canines. Nostrils are wide with a line running vertically between nostrils from the tip of nose down to the bottom of the upper lip. Nose is large and broad in relationship to the width of the muzzle. Nose color is black. Ears are rose, button or tulip, with rose preferred. They are set high and to the rear of the skull. The ears are positioned as wide as possible on the outside of the skull. They are small to medium in size. Neck is medium length, wide, and slightly arched. It is a little smaller than the head where the two meet, and gets wider from that point to the shoulders. It is slightly loose from jaw to chest, forming a double dewlap. They are broad, heavily muscled and have a separation between shoulder blades. The scapula shoulder blade should be at an approximate degree angle to vertical and form an angle approximately degrees to the humerus forearm. Scapula and humerus should be roughly equal in length. A vertical line drawn from the point of the scapula top to the ground will pass directly through the elbow. The elbows are not turned in or out. The legs are set wide apart, coming straight down from the shoulders. They are straight vertically on inside of legs and well-muscled, giving a bowed appearance of front quarters. The forelegs have medium bone and are in proportion to the body. The pasterns are medium in length. They are straight, strong, flexible and nearly perpendicular to the ground. Body is sturdy and powerful. The length from tip of breastbone to rear thigh is slightly longer than the height from ground to withers. The back is wide and muscular, showing power. Topline has a slight roach or wheel back. There is a fall in the back, to its low spot behind the shoulders. From this point the spine rises to the loin. The high point of the loin is a little bit higher than the shoulders then there is a gentle curve, forming an arch, down to the tail. Loin back of ribcage to hips is muscular, medium in length and slightly arched. The chest is wide and deep with a muscular brisket. Ribs are well sprung and rounded, being at their fullest directly behind the shoulders. Shoulders to forelegs are well muscled. Hips and thighs are strong and muscular. Hind legs are well muscled and slightly longer than the forelegs. In a natural stance they are straight, parallel and set apart when viewed from the rear. Distance between hind legs is less than distance between front legs. Angulation is moderate. Stifles have a gentle convex curve when viewed from the side. Stifle angle roughly matches the angle of the pelvis. Hocks are perpendicular to the ground when viewed from the side and back. They are parallel to each other when viewed from the back. A line drawn from the rear-most part of the buttocks, perpendicular to the ground, should fall to the front of the toes. They are straight when viewed from the front. Rear feet are smaller than front feet. Tail should be set low and tapering from base to end. It can be pump handle or straight, with pump handle being preferred. Tail should reach the hocks or be slightly shorter. Tail is carried down, horizontal or high. Coat is short, close and of medium density. It should be shiny, showing good health. Color can be brindle of red, gray, fawn or black; either solid or pied with white. Solid white, fawn, red or black; solid color or pied. Temperament Leavitt Bulldogs are docile, but capable and protective, fearless and athletic, fierce-looking, determined and courageous, bold and friendly around their family and friends, but fearless adversaries to anyone who threatens their masters or property. This breed likes to chew and should be supplied with plenty of toys and bones. Nylabones and rubber Kong toys are highly recommended. Rawhides, soft rubber and stuffed toys are unsafe, for they are easily shredded or swallowed whole. Leavitt Bulldogs are so eager to please that they may overexert themselves in an effort to do whatever is asked of them. An owner who displays a natural authority toward the dog, socialization and obedience training are important. It is best to channel high energy individuals to some type of work and exercise. The objective in training this dog is to achieve pack leader status. It is a natural instinct for a dog to have an order in its pack. When we humans live with dogs , we become their pack. The entire pack cooperates under a single leader. Lines are clearly defined and rules are set. Because a dog communicates his displeasure with growling and eventually biting, all other humans MUST be higher up in the order than the dog. The humans must be the ones making the decisions, not the dogs. That is the only way your relationship with your dog can be a complete success. This breed tends to drool and slobber. Height, Weight Height: Males 17 - 20 inches 43 - 51 cm Females 16 - 19 inches 40 - 48 kg Weight: Males 60 - 80 pounds 27 - 36 kg Females 50 - 70 pounds 22 - 31 kg Health Problems May be susceptible to bloat —a painful and often fatal condition that can be brought on by too large a quantity of food consumed at one time. As with all large breeds, hip dysplasia sometimes occurs. Breeders are working hard to keep it out of the Leavitt Bulldog; therefore, no dog with bad hips is bred. Living Conditions Leavitt Bulldogs will adapt to almost any lifestyle. They should be protected from the extreme cold and heat, although they are not as susceptible as the AKC Bulldog. Exercise This breed needs to be taken on a daily pack walk to satisfy its migration instinct. When properly conditioned they can be active dogs, however, they are equally happy with moderate exercise. They can stay in relatively good shape with good muscle tone with only light exercise. These dogs are naturally slow, and because of their unique structure, they should not be encouraged to jump or engage in strenuous exercise as young pups. This breed is an average shedder. In he became disenchanted with English Bulldogs due to their breeding and breathing problems. David's goal was to produce a dog with the looks of the 18th century bulldog, with the temperament of today's English Bulldogs, yet healthy, without breathing problems, or all the other aliments today's English Bulldogs are prone to. This new breed can now breathe. Cesarean section births are not necessary. Artificial insemination, due to male ineptness and lack of drive, has been replaced by natural ties. Lifespan is over eleven years. All breeding stock has had hip x-rays. No dog with bad hips is bred. David says he is now achieving his goal of producing a Bulldog with the health and temperament to be able to serve people, instead of forcing people to serve him. David Leavitt is breeding them to more of a working lines type dog, while OEBKC is breeding the dogs as more of a family oriented dog.

Next » by docrad on 26 May - I have been on a quest to find a nice german shepherd. You would think that would be easy. I was referred to Mittelwest Kennels in Illinois. With that price in mind, I pictured in my head a really nice kennel. Entering the property with the gate that let you in was impressive, what was not impressive was the kennels itself. After getting a tour of the kennels I noticed that there were dogs sitting in crates in the barn but I did not see any empty kennel runs. I asked about that and was told their kennel was being cleaned, there were not any empty kennels to clean. During my 2 hour visit I seen things that did not impress me. Some dogs did not have water and were panting heavily, fur was a mess. When I returned home I checked her web site out, I should have done this prior to going. There are several litters, lots of litters coming soon. Where are all these puppies going to live? So, can anyone give me their experiences with this kennel and lead me to others if they think I should go somewhere else. Thanks by Blitzen on 26 May - Maybe try to find a local kennel that has fewer dogs and breeds less? If you let us know the general area where you live, someone may have some recommendations for you. I assume you are looking for a German showline? You could also try to find out if there is a local GSD breed club or an all breed club in your area. Many times they can refer you to member breeders. Good luck.If you're looking for a showline, there are 2 breeders in close proximity that I would not hesitate to refer you to. I breed working lines, but I "know" both of these women well enough to recommend them and their dogs.Either is easily found online. If you are not set on showlines, I might have something for you in the near future, but that would really depend on what your plans were for the dog. My contact info is in my profile if you want further info, but living in the same area as Mittlewest and the others I mentioned has given me a pretty good idea of where I would and would not send someone for a SL puppy. I've sold a few dogs to people who previously owned dogs from Mittelwest. I would buy this dog if the plumbing were different. In fact, I was planning on buying one of these, but alas, nature does not take puppy orders. This is a super opportunity. That is good use of this forum. They both live in Lake county so they are local. If you are looking for a working line dog Zyta and Seastian Piotrowski out around Dekalb have some that you should consider. Zyta also trains, handles and titles all her own dogs. I recently sent and LE officer to her for a family dog and he is very happy with his pup she may still have some I'm not sure. Decide what you want to do with your pup, how much time and effort you want to put into training and let the breeder whoever it is know, so they can match you up with the correct pup. Good luck Trudy by nanu on 27 May - by gsddreamer on 05 June - My boy is going to be 21 months this month. When I first got him I was going there on a regular basis for training and never saw a bunch of dogs sitting in crates. I started going again for ring training and again haven't seen that. My boy is from Mittelwest but he actually was born at the dam's owne'rs home and was with them till I got him at 2 months old. It seems to me that all the owners want are the puppies from these poor animals and don't give a damn about the animals themselves!! Isn't that being nothing but a glorified puppy mill???? The cruelty is unforgivable!! I'd love to see the owners in crates, without water, living in their own waste and being bred over, and over!! As 2 Investigator Pam Zekman reports, the outbreak happened this year with dogs from a local breeder. Puppies for sale at Mittelwest Shepherds in Wonder Lake are either bred on site or imported from Germany. And my only thought he was gonna die. Mittelwest's owner Julie Martinez blamed the German breeder that the puppy originally came from. It's not something that could have been foreseen," said Martinez. McHenry County Animal Control reports include a violation warning for "failing to provide veterinary care" for two puppies. It gave the breeder 24 hours to take the puppies to a veterinarian. They were taken to the vet and tested positive for parvo the next day. Experts say getting puppies with parvo symptoms to a vet fast is critical because it's highly contagious. Seven puppies in one litter all died at Mittelwest this year. In all CBS 2 can confirm more than a dozen puppies got parvo. In February, the Illinois Department of Agriculture placed a quarantine on the facility that meant none of the dogs or puppies could be moved or sold. That quarantine was lifted 18 days later by the Department of Agriculture due to the puppies "not showing any signs or symptoms" and Mittelwest "being cleaned and disinfected. But, Megan Swiechichowski purchased her puppy after the quarantine. Three days later it tested positive for parvo. Martinez says she believes Megan's puppy got a false positive, but agreed to pay for the vet bills and refund half Megan's money and all of the Barry's. She also says she routinely provides vet care. Inspectors revisited Mittelwest last week and found no evidence of parvo. More from CBS News.

Parti Poodles, Mismarks, Tuxedo and Ticking Overview While many people equate a Poodle with a solid colored dog with white, black, red and apricot being the most popular colors , there are many more variables in regard to coat color and markings; and some of these are AKC recognized but only partially allowed into certain events. This section will discuss: Mismarks a type of color marking Tuxedo a certain type of two-tone Ticking on the toy, miniature and standard Poodle. That secondary coat color may fall anywhere on the dog. This is one element that makes parti Poodles so interesting. No two ever look alike and many breeders take joy in the fact that having a litters of partis is akin to opening presents.On a well-bred parti Poodle, the white should be crisp and clear and the secondary color will have clear lines without fading into the white. While colors may blend a lot when the Poodle is a pup, there will be many changes as the Poodle matures. Final color and the element of blended vs crisp lines can be determined once the puppy has grown into adulthood. This Poodle puppy is a cream and beige parti. As the pup grows, either color may become more predominant. It is expected that many parti Poodles will have some tiny spots, usually black, that can appear on the paws or body. However, there should not be any ticking in the white hairs. One litter can contain a black and white parti and an apricot and white parti, with color falling in completely different areas. Since the MITF gene is recessive to solid color Solid color is a stronger gene , both dam and sire must be partis to create partis and a parti paired with a solid will most likely produce a solid. Parti Poodles cannot currently be shown in AKC conformation events, and due to this some people mistakenly believe that they also cannot be AKC registered. This is not true. Partis are AKC registerable, with pre-designated color numbers, and can be shown in obedience and agility events. Many people feel that at some point in the future, they will be able to enter into conformation in the United States, as they are in other countries such as Germany. It should be noted that partis were always very popular across the world. In the late 's, for unknown and unrecorded reasons, those in power decided to exclude them from the show ring. In the Multi-Color Poodle Club of American was formed and held their own conformation show in , on the same day as the IKC's 12th annual premier show. A mixmark on a Poodle is considered to be a fault in regard to show conformation. Many people and even some breeders confuse mismarks with Tuxedo Poodles, or partis, believing that these words mean the same thing. While both will have white, there is a big difference. Essentially, a mismark is a Poodle with one main coat color other than white.The light color or white will fall on some or all of the following areas of the dog: The chest, paws, chin, neck, tip of the tail. To further define the difference between partis and mismarks, if you were to shave down a mismark, the Poodle's skin would all be the main color of the coat. However, if you shaved down a parti Poodle, the skin would be 2 colors, showing where the white hair was and where the colored hair was. These dogs will have more than 1 of the acceptable color patterns. For example: A parti Poodle this is 1 acceptable color pattern with phantom markings a secondary acceptable color pattern. These dogs are not accepted into the AKC show ring. Tuxedo A true tuxedo Poodle will have a very special markings in certain areas that literally remind you of a tuxedo. There will usually be: A white bib - this is color on the chest, it may or may not wrap all the way around the dog's neck A white belly - This "should" touch the bib, making a continuous white area White that extends from the belly down to the front and hind legs and paws. A darker color that covers the entire saddle back. While this is the preferred look of a tuxedo Poodle, some will only have white that extends down the front legs, some will have a disconnection of the bib to belly, others may have white markings on the head, etc. While slight spotting on the white hairs is acceptable, heavy spotting known as ticking is not preferred. The lines of where the two colors meet should be clear and distinct with no blending or 'muddy' lines. Ticking Ticking is just a term that means spotting. When a dog such as the Poodle has ticking, these are very small dots. This usually occurs on white or light hair with the ticking or spotting being a dark color such as black. The gene that causes ticking is very dominant, therefore many breeders feel that Poodles that are ticked should not be used to breed partis, as the ticking can cause a rather muddied, dirty appearance that gets in the way of what would otherwise be a clear, crisp, clean looking coat. You may also like: Poodle behavior - A look at expected temperament and personality of toys, minis and standards. Poodle at-home dental care - This breed is prone to tooth decay and owners should be taking steps to prevent infection and loss. Poodle is chewing at paws Poodle blog - The Topic of the Month - Always something new in regard to your Poodle's health and happiness. Poodle Clothing - There are more reasons other than making your dog look cute to have a few key pieces of clothing. Cold intolerance and withstanding harsh winters is one of the main reasons why you may want to have at least one warm vest or coat for your Poodle. Are you a Member yet? When you sign up, you'll be able to receive a friendly alert when new pages of information are added to the site. Use tab to navigate through the menu items. She is confident, and very agile and intelligent. She is very outgoing and loves attention and and absolutely wonderful temperament while also being more assertive in a positive way than her twin sister Zoe. Lexi is currently 24" at the withers and 52 lbs. She loves playing with the other dogs and kids. Mother to Lexi is a red and white parti and carrier of the highly sought after Phantom and their father is a red and white tuxedo and also a carrier of the Phantom gene , both of which have a long and successful pedigree of champions. With these parti lines we will get some exceptional coloring and characteristics in our standard poodle and Bernedoodle puppies. Lexi's standard poodle puppies when crossed with our male, Murphy, see below, who is a black and silver Phantom should range from black and silver phantom, black and red phantom, black and white parti, red and white parti, brindles, and several other surprises as well. Lexi's bernedoodle puppies should range from tri-colors, bi-colors, sable tri-color, and beyond. Lexi's parents have been OFA hip and elbow certified and Lexi has completed her prelims for hip and elbows and both received excellent marks. Lexi has already been genetic tested for an array of genetic markers all clear for von Willebrand Disease Type-1, neonatal encephalopathy, degenerative myelopathy. Hips and elbows received excellent grade in their prelims we use Dr. We do not breed any of our standard poodles unless they have a very low which is what you want COI and have been genetic tested. This pedigree has been heavily tested and screened for blood analysis and have been clean and healthy and the reason why we went with this pedigree. The following are pictures of Lexi at different ages. Parti Standard Poodles - If you love spots, you may want a parti poodle. A parti poodle is a poodle of white and another color. There are several distinct patterns: the tuxedo, spotted, and abstract all refer to a poodle that is white and another color. That color can be black, brown, red, apricot, creme, silver, blue, grey, cafe-au-lait, or silver-beige. Parti poodles are usually more than half white with colored spots. They can range from almost a solid white with just a few spots of color to the more colorful tuxedos. Tuxedos look like a poodle dressed for a party. They have white on the legs and a white collar that may or may not go completely around the neck. Tuxedo-colored poodles also have white on the belly that should extend up to the chest. Some tuxedos have colored legs almost to the feet and others have white all the way up to their back. Abstract poodles have limited white markings and are almost a solid colored dog. The most common abstract poodle marking is a simple white mark on the chest. White splashes of color may also occur on the face, head, chest, and feet. Abstract poodles sometimes have a white chest and white feet that look like they have been dipped in paint. Ticking marks are the small spots found within the white parts of the dog. Dogs may have little to no ticking. Ticking on legs may look like small spots or be large enough to look like stripes. We have standard poodle puppies for sale in these parti color combinations: black and white parti, brown and white parti, red and white parti, apricot and white parti, blue and white parti and silver and white parti. Multi-colored poodles include parti poodles, abstracts, brindles and phantom poodles. These combinations have been the Hallmark of the Standard Poodle from its inception. We can and have proven that and this also can be proven by our dogs today. There is not a solid colored Standard Poodles that does not have a multi-colored background somewhere. It is just a matter of stacking the color genes on the top and bottom of the pedigree in the proper order. The first parti, which just means two colors, we will discuss comes in black and white, brown and white, red and white, silver and white, apricot and white, blue and white. There are several patterns in these color combinations controlled by the following genes: Piebald which is parti , saddle pattern, dot gene, tuxedo and abstract. I am not going to get technical I just want you to recognize what you are looking at. These are all patterns of the major colors. Within those colors are sables. The hairs are tipped with a different color on the ends and lighter coat underneath. There can be black sables, red sables, brown sables and grey sables with lighter coats underneath of varying color combinations. The sable tips can be cut off and a couple of weeks later they will come back. Brindles are another variation of color. This gene is always tied to the phantom gene. These are color patterns in the colored areas of the dog. Here are several beautiful examples. Tiger Lily is a solid silver brindle with bars. Josie is a tri-colored brindle Irish tuxedo. You will see the brindling, dotted bar pattern, in her face and main colored areas. She has a tuxedo color pattern on her body, it is just like putting a tuxedo coat on her. If she was standing up on her rear legs there would be the patterning down her back legs, white on the chest, belly and bottom of legs. The white pattern should not be broken on the inside of the legs. Cassidy if another gorgeous example. Misha is an apricot and white sable Standard Poodle Breeder. She produces beautiful tri-colored phantom standard poodles. Bandit is a tri-colored as well. Jasper is a black and red sable phantom standard poodle. Ebony is a black and silver phantom. Audie is a black and white tuxedo. Luger is a brown and white parti. Sadie, Shelley and Izzy are black and white tuxedos. Lastly, we have our gorgeous Red Standard Poodles. These beauties come in many different shades. Barron is a deep dark red. Topper is a red and white tuxedo. Dolly is a lemon red tuxedo. Gemma is a red and white parti. Bree and Contessa are red and white abstracts. If you found this page helpful please feel free to take a moment to visit our Standard Poodle Info pages where you can find more helpful information on your new Standard Poodle Puppy.

boxer puppies roanoke va - The difficult part is deciding which one will have the greatest positive impact on their well-being. The following are some of the top options for dog foods for your Labradoodle: Dry Food: Due to its affordability and accessibility, dry dog food is a preferred option for Labradoodles. The nutrients in high-quality dry food are appropriate for a different life stage of your Labradoodle. Dry food has the greatest shelf life when compared to other types of dog foods. Wet Food: Wet food or canned food is another option for owners. Labradoodles enjoy the variety of flavors in canned food that come in interesting shapes like other meaty foods. Owners may combine wet food with dried food because wet food alone is typically more expensive than dry food. While it can be costly, doing so guarantees that their pups receive high-quality food. If you only give the same food to your Labradoodles, they could develop picky eating habits. Hence, it makes sense to follow the advice of the majority of veterinarians to combine kibble and wet food with a ratio of 20 to .Make sure the food you choose is sustainable and highly recommended by experts. Ensure that it will suit your needs, those of your dog, your financial situation, and your way of life. The average price of a Labradoodle is already costly. Hence, it is important to choose the kind of diet that will also suit your budget. Foods to Avoid Feeding Your Labradoodle Dog owners must be aware of the foods that can be harmful, poisonous, or trigger an allergic reaction in their Labradoodles. The following is a list of some harmful or poisonous foods that you must never give your pet Labradoodle: Alcohol: There is no enzyme that can digest alcohol in Labradoodles. Hypoglycemia , metabolic acidosis , respiratory difficulties, or central nervous system CNS impairment could result from ingestion. Avocado: Avocados contain the fungicidal toxin persin , which has been linked to the death of many dog breeds, including Labradoodles. It can cause vomiting, loose stool, and heart damage when taken in large doses. Chocolate: The major alkaloid in cocoa and chocolates, theobromine , cannot be broken down by an enzyme found in the stomachs of Labradoodles. As a result, even small quantities of chocolate can cause toxicity. Additionally, they could become uncontrollable, have convulsions, throw up, and have diarrhea. Grapes and raisins: As a result of the tartaric acid found in grapes and raisins, Labradoodles experience diarrhea , vomiting, dehydration , and kidney failure. Unfortunately, even one full grape can cause fatal injuries and irreversible harm to Labradoodles. Onion, garlic, leeks, and chives: All of these vegetables contain N-propyl disulfide , which robs red blood cells of their ability to carry oxygen. Consuming these veggies over time may cause hemolytic anemia. It is frequently present in toothpaste, gum, candies, and syrups. Listed below are foods that may seem harmless but are actually hazardous for Labradoodles: Cooked bones: Cooked bones are prone to shatter into shards. They can hurt your Labradoodle as well as obstruct its mouth, throat, and stomach. High-sugar foods: Your Labradoodle is more likely to develop health issues, including diabetes, obesity, and teeth damage, if it consumes too much sugar from other dog foods. Avoid cheap dog food, which usually contains too much salt. Consuming too much salt can result in seizures, renal failure, diarrhea, and vomiting. If ignored, this results in gastrointestinal blockage and death. Bring your Labradoodle to the nearest veterinary clinic immediately if you think they have accidentally ingested any of the aforementioned foods. A smart technique to make sure that their nutritional demands are being satisfied is to switch to a new food. If you want to gradually introduce a new food to your Labradoodle pup, make sure to introduce it in little amounts every day. The timeline provided below will help you introduce a new food to your Labradoodle: Days. Listed below are answers to the most common questions I receive as you are preparing to take your puppy home: 1. What is my puppy eating? We are feeding your puppy PawTree. They have a multitude of other flavors you can try out after your puppy comes home too. You can buy this food by clicking the PawTree picture at the bottom of any page on our website. You can find out more information at www. We also encourage you to set your order to their EZship so you never run out. They also offer personalized food by filling out a pet profile so we encourage all families to head over to fill out their pet profile for personalized food plan as well as personalized bags of dog food when they arrive. How many times per day should my puppy be fed? We feed puppies, weeks old 3 x per day. We try to keep them on a schedule such as: a. Once the puppy reaches 12 weeks, we cut them back to eating 2 x per day, eliminating the noon feeding. Increase the amount you feed based on the recommendations you will find on the dog food bag as suggested by weight of the puppy. We do not recommend free feeding — give your puppy about 20 minutes to eat, then pick it up and put it away. Water should be provided at all times, except during the night. Wet the food for about 30 minutes prior to giving it to the puppy so it softens to aid in digestion. However, if you see loose stools it is almost assuredly overfeeding so back it off until the stool is firm and then slowly add back in. When can I start training my puppy? We like to see training start as soon as you pick up your puppy from my home, or your puppy arrives via car or airplane. We recommend transporting your puppy home in a crate that is lined with a bath towel. Feeding time is a fantastic opportunity to train as you can spend a few minutes several times per day with teaching the basic commands of sit, stay and come. We provide a helpful training booklet with detailed information on training on our Puppy Tips page. What size crate should I buy for my puppy? Most puppies that will mature to a medium size will need a large crate once they have reached maturity. Plastic crates are an option as well. If you have any questions please ask us. What type of collar and leash do I need and what size is best for my puppy? We like to buy the less expensive, adjustable-type of collars and a nylon leash. We do not care for the expandable leashes that allow the puppy to walk way out in front or way off to the side of you. The smallest setting for the collar would be about 8 inches and expanding out from there. We use small carabiners to attach the stretched chain between the collar and the leash. This will prevent your puppy from chewing your new leash. If you are reserving a small size pup then I would suggest an XS collar. Another option while they are very young is a slip leash style. Some families like to train in harnesses. This is also a tool you can use. Sizes will vary from company to company, but most go off of weight. Ask us the estimated weight of your future puppy at the time they will go home so you will have a rough idea of what to purchase. It is never a bad idea to weight to buy until you can size your puppy in person though as each harness will fit differently. You can play the radio softly if your puppy is in a different room from you as this is how they were raised with us. You have to find a system that works for you. However, keeping consistent for the first few nights will build a sleep pattern in your dog you will enjoy for its entire life. How many times per night will my puppy need to go out to go potty? We suggest you feed your puppy dinner no later than p. Make sure that you see puppy go potty and poop before putting him to bed for the night. If your bedtime is p. Then only if puppy is whining, let him out very methodically to potty no playing and put him right back to bed. How many times per day should my puppy need to go potty? Puppies will always go potty right away after they wake up and after they eat. If you take puppy out right after eating, see him go potty, then allow about 30 minutes of some free time in your home before making his world small using a temporary fence or leash. On average they can typically hold their bladders for 2-hours, but every puppy will react differently to stimuli in your home. Should my puppy have contact with other vaccinated dogs? We like to make sure other dogs have not only been vaccinated, but are also free of parasites. Worms of all sorts can live in feces and it just take a quick second for your puppy to ingest enough to get a parasite. This product should be alternated every 6 months. There are countless natural remedies as well as chemical based options you can find at your vet. We always prefer natural options first, but in some cases the chemical based products are needed. Check with your vet or trainer for their recommendations in your area. We strongly suggest topical or collar options only. How often should I give my puppy a bath and what should I use? We do not bathe our puppies unless they are dirty and we use baby shampoo or something gentle. We usually suggest people decide what they like in the look of their Labradoodle. Do you like the longer, shaggy look, or do you like the shorter, more manicured coat? If you leave the coat longer, you will need to keep it combed out and mat free. Do you have recommendations for where to stay when we pick up our puppy? We are located only 20 mins from Lebanon, Oregon. There are numerous hotel options in Albany, Springfield, or Eugene that you can explore. Dog owners often get bombarded with endless choices as well as countless adverts from the dog food companies, who all claim that theirs is the best. When it comes to dog food, the simple answer is no one food is best for all dogs. But the question is: which diet is the best for your Labradoodle? Luckily, there are many different options when it comes to dog food. The most popular manufactured foods include a complete diet dry , with or without a biscuit mixer and semi-moist. Some dog foods contain only natural ingredients. Then there is the option of feeding your dog a home-made diet. Some owners swear by a raw diet while others feed their Labradoodles vegetarian food. Within the manufactured options, there are many different qualities of food. Usually, you get what you pay for. Expensive ones are more likely to provide better nutrition for your doodle in terms of minerals, nutrients, and high-quality meat, whereas the cheap ones will most likely contain a lot of grain. Dried food also called kibble in the USA tend to be less expensive than other dog foods. They have improved a lot over the last few years, and some of the more expensive ones are now an excellent choice for a healthy, complete diet. Dried foods also contain the least fat and the most preservatives. Often semi-moist foods contain a lot of sugar and artificial substances, which is why some dogs seem to love them. Choosing the right food for your Labradoodle is very important. The diet influences his health, coat, and even temperament. It can have an effect on his health, coat , skin, energy levels, and temperament. There are several different types of food that you can feed your labradoodle — dry, semi-moist, canned, frozen, or freeze-dried are just some of the options. You can also feed him a home-made or raw diet. Many owners of labradoodle with allergies or skin conditions are now considering this option. Dry Dog Food for Labradoodles Dry food is a popular choice for Labradoodles, especially for large dogs who get through a lot of food. It is also less expensive than other dog foods. It is worth paying for a high-quality dry food as cheaper ones may contain a lot of cereal. It also means that you have to feed larger quantities to ensure your dog gets sufficient nutrients. Canned Dog Food for Labradoodles Canned food is another popular choice. Dogs also love them. They love the taste, and it generally comes in a variety of flavors. Canned food is often great mixed with dry kibble. If your labradoodle has lost interest in food and on a dry food diet, then you can add a small amount of canned food. Canned food tends to be more expensive than dried food. Many owners do not like the mess that it makes. If you store a part-opened tin in the fridge, then it can have an overpowering smell when you open the fridge door. Semi-Moist Dog Food for Labradoodles These are the commercial dog foods shaped like pork chops, salamis, burgers, or other meaty foods. They are the least nutritional of all dog foods. They are full of sugars, artificial flavorings, and coloring. You may give your doodle one as an occasional treat, but they do not provide the nutrition that your labradoodle needs. Freeze-Dried Dog Food for Labradoodles The frozen food manufacturers often make this for dog owners who like the convenience of it. You can store them for six months to a year. They do it to make sure that their pets are getting the right nutrition they need. Feeding your doodle a home-cooked diet can be time consuming and expensive. The tricky part is sticking to it once you have started with the best intentions. Raw food for Labradoodles If your doodle is not doing well on commercially prepared dog food then you might need to consider a raw diet. There is evidence that they are becoming increasingly popular among the Labradoodle owners. Raw food diets emulate the way dogs ate before the existence of commercial dog foods. After all, dry, canned, or other styles of cooked food for dogs were mainly created as a means of convenience. However, raw diets are not without controversy. Supporters of the raw food diet argue that a carefully planned raw diet gives the dog numerous health benefits, including a healthier coat, more energy, cleaner teeth, and get rid of bad breath and doggy odor. But the critics say that the risks of nutritional imbalance, intestinal problems, and food-borne illness caused by handling and feeding raw meat outweigh any benefits. Scientifically, the jury is still out. This is one of the most frequent questions that all the Labradoodle owners ask. But there is no easy answer. The correct amount of food for your labradoodle depends on several factors such as: Breed. As they grow you will move from four meals per day at 8 weeks old, to just one or two in adulthood. And you will want to use as much of their daily kibble as you can in training. Helping to strengthen the bond between you, as well as to teaching them which behaviors you want to see in your home. Feeding a Labradoodle Puppy When it comes to feeding your new Labradoodle puppy there are plenty of options to choose between and a number of things to consider. Puppies grow up fast. The first thing to keep in mind is that puppies have different dietary needs to adult dogs. Getting too much of some nutrients, and not enough of others can lead to developmental problems. Growing pups digest food and absorb nutrients differently than adult dogs too. Their gastrointestinal system also works much faster than that of an adult dog. Puppy Nutrient Requirements Puppies need more calories than adult dogs, relative to their size. In fact, they need about twice as many calories in relation to their body weight compared to that of a full grown Labradoodle. Compared to mature dogs, puppies also need: more protein to support growing muscle more fat to fuel growth and a different mineral balance to aid in the rapid development of their bones. For example, one study showed that puppies fed a low phosphorus diet suffer from impaired appetite and growth, diminished skin and fur quality, and a disturbed musculoskeletal system. Too much calcium can also negatively affect bone development, by accelerating it. This is a serious joint condition that leads to painful arthritis and lameness. The smaller and younger your puppy is, the more often they need to eat, since their stomachs are too small for big portions. Labradoodle puppies that are 4 months or younger should have their food split into 4 meals a day. When they reach 4 and 6 months old this can be reduced to 3 meals. Knowing how much to feed your Labradoodle puppy can be tricky. So the feeding charts on the packaging are a good place to start. This basic pet calorie calculator can help determine how many calories a puppy needs. Overfeeding Labradoodle Puppies Canine obesity is a big problem for many dogs and the Labradoodle is no exception. Some Labrador Retrievers are known to have a genetic mutation that causes them to have an insatiable appetite. But there are plenty of genetically normal dogs who will always want more food. If your puppy is constantly hungry you can try giving him smaller, more frequent meals. In fact, for training purposes we recommend using as much of each of the meals rations as you can as training treats between meals. These days there are a lot of brands vying for space in the dog food market. So deciding what to feed your Labradoodle puppy might be the most difficult question of them all. Puppies that are 8 to 12 weeks old should continue eating the same food they were eating at the breeders. If you want to change their food, wait until they are fully settled at home. Then transition gradually to a different diet to avoid causing an upset tummy. You can do it over the course of a week, like this: Feed 1 part new food to 3 parts old food on the first two days. Equal parts old food and new food on days three and four. And three parts new food to one part old food for two more days after that. Feeding a Labradoodle Puppy Dry Food Most puppy parents choose one of the many commercial dry puppy foods available. There are many reasons why these diets also known as kibbles are so popular. They are. Is kibble, cans, raw or homemade food better? Swapping Puppy Food Brands Moving into his or her new home is a challenging and exciting time for your Labradoodle puppy. Keep feeding what your pup is used to for at least two weeks. Then, slowly start mixing in the new food you have chosen for your pup. Labradoodle Puppy Diets Puppies have lots of growing to do. This means that they need more of certain minerals and nutrients for example calcium and phosphorus for bone growth. Your labradoodle pup will also need a higher amount of good quality protein. This is definitely not the case, though. This—among other things—can cause joint problems, such as hip dysplasia. Labradoodles are a cross between two breeds that are both already at high risk of developing hip dysplasia. The most important thing of all is to avoid overfeeding a Labradoodle puppy, as we will see later in this article. This is called hypoglycemia. Generally, a feeding schedule for your Labradoodle pup can look like this: 2 — 4 months: 4 meals daily 4 — 6 months: 3 meals daily 6 — 8 months: 2 — 3 meals daily Older than 8 months: 2 meals daily. Just make sure to divide the total daily amount onto multiple feedings. You can make slight adjustments to these amounts if your pup is looking a little slim or chunky. The number of calories your pup needs will also change as he or she gets older and heavier. There are a couple of different options out there. Commercial dog foods offer complete and balanced nutrition for your growing pup — this means that they have all the right nutrients in all the right amounts and ratios. If a puppy is fed an inappropriate diet, this could lead to long-lasting growth defects or other malnutrition diseases. Feeding a Labradoodle Puppy Kibble Kibble is the most popular type of dog food out there. There are only two things you need to pay attention to when choosing kibble: It should be designed specifically for puppies, and it should be high-quality. Research shows that higher-priced dog foods tend to have higher nutrient digestibility than lower-priced kibble — so it might be worth spending a bit more. Choose a kibble that contains a meat protein source as the first ingredient, and steer clear of ingredients like corn, soy, and cereals. Due to its high water content, the aromas and taste of the meat unfold better, making wet food the most palatable food there is. This comes at a bit of a cost, though: Wet food tends to be more expensive than kibble, and of course it spoils more easily. To get the best of both worlds of commercial dog foods, you can combine or alternate between kibble and wet food. The BARF diet consists of lots of raw meat and bones, as well as some veg and fruit. Supporters of raw feeding think that it will make your dog healthier, although there is no solid evidence for this yet. Raw meats are often contaminated with bacteria such as Salmonella or Campylobacter. These bacteria could potentially cause diseases in your pup. However, this is extremely rare, as the digestive tract most dogs can handle these bugs just fine. This means that there is a lot less danger of bacterial infections from raw meats. Keep in mind that cooking for a dog is not the same as cooking for yourself. Avoid spices, onions, garlic, cooking oils, and too much salt. These are dogs that will always want more food and are prone to obesity. It can help to space out meals or add one or two feedings a day if your dog is constantly hungry. Another option is to make your dog work for small amounts of food throughout the day — be it with puppy training, food balls, or puzzles. The possibilities are endless.


Similar services:

boxer puppies roanoke va - We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. As we all know too well, what we put in our belly has a huge impact on our health, vitality, length and quality of life. They have to strike a fine balance between getting enough nutrients to grow and avoiding an over-abundance that can lead to abnormal growth and disabling conditions. In this article you will learn precisely how to feed your puppy. What they can eat, what they should not, how many times you should feed them each day, basic information on home-made diets and the pros and cons of various commercial dog foods. The majority of Labrador owners feed their puppy kibble. Kibble is ground meal, shaped into dried biscuit-like pellets that are extremely convenient to buy, store and feed, providing everything a puppy needs in one easy to handle product. All the major brands carry a range of kibble and many are specifically formulated to suit the precise needs of puppies. For our recommendations of the best puppy food for labs, please read our article on: The Best Food for Labrador Puppies. Good breeders will supply you with all the information you need to feed your new puppy and you should follow this advice. Puppies almost always get upset tummies during a change of diet. The stress of moving to a new home is enough to deal with without them potentially having tummy upset on top. So try to avoid this. But expect your puppy to get diarrhea after such a sudden change. What Can Puppies Eat? With a bewildering choice of different puppy foods available, what to feed your puppy may not be the easiest decision to make. You Can Feed Your Puppy Kibble Kibble is ground up food, formed into pellets and dried for easy storage and convenience. It is a specially formulated, complete and balanced diet, containing everything a puppy needs to grow and be healthy. Many people believe kibble is the best way to feed a puppy, with it being so easy to buy, store and feed while containing every nutrient a puppy needs in the right proportions. Wet, Complete Puppy Foods Are An Option As the name suggests, complete wet dog food is complete and balanced, meaning nothing should be fed in combination. Everything needed is included in this one food. Complete wet foods come in individual pouches or tins with one pouch or tin containing one single serving. In the main these foods are low in nutrition, contain a high amount of cheap fillers, by-products and water and need mixing with a biscuit to give them some substance and to make them more complete. Because the food is such low quality, you have to feed a lot of it. And what goes in, must come out. This type of feeding was popular decades ago and I do remember my parents feeding our first dogs this way, but most people have moved on from this and are feeding their dogs in better ways now. Raw Food, BARF And Home-Made Diets Raw feeding is a diet that consists of mostly raw meat, edible bones and animal organs, though most practitioners also mix in small portions of fruit, veg and selected other foodstuffs. There are many people feel strongly that this is the best possible way to feed a dog. But I would caution most people that to feed this diet successfully, you need to do A LOT of research, gain a lot of knowledge and truly understand a dogs nutritional needs to make sure they get exactly what they need in the right amounts. Many people wonder if they can feed their puppy human foods, anything found in the fridge or larder. Furthermore, there are many human foods that are toxic to dogs that you should avoid at all costs. Too much of some nutrients can be bad in itself, but also prevent the absorption and use of other nutrients too. So supplementing a balanced diet is a bad thing to do. Can You Give Puppies Milk? Assuming you get your puppy at the recommended 8 weeks, they will have been fully weaned before you bring them home. Many puppies are intolerant of cows milk and drinking it leads to an upset tummy and diarrhea so you would do best to avoid giving your puppy any milk at all. One exception is for very young puppies under 6 weeks of age. When we have newborn puppies at our house we sometimes need to supplement and use Esbilac Milk Supplemen t. However, if you have a very young puppy that you think may need supplementing please first consult with your veterinarian. Are They Necessary? You will likely be feeding your puppy a commercially available complete and balanced dog food, in which case you certainly should not supplement their food. Supplementing this will mean too much of one or more things, making it unbalanced which can actually lead to harm. But an excess amount of calcium in the diet of a Lab puppy can lead to skeletal development problems. So adding a calcium supplement to an already complete diet can actually do more harm than good. There may also be times your vet advises you to do so. But if feeding raw, you should know more about nutrition than I do. This is a hard question to answer and sadly I cannot give you a definite quantity or weight to feed them each day. Puppies grow at different rates, some are more active than others and there can be large differences between metabolisms too. However… The biggest determining factor is how concentrated the nutrients and calories are in the brand of food you feed them. High quality foods are nutrient rich and give a puppy all they need from quite small amounts of food. But cheaper brands are full of low quality and nutritionally empty fillers that mean a puppy needs considerably more to get what they need. Start by feeding your puppy according to the guidelines on the label of the puppy food you buy for them. Then see how their body develops. Puppies should not be fat! But at the other end of the scale if they start to look and feel a little slim, up their portion sizes a little. The guidelines on the food you buy are just that…guidelines. You might also be interested in:. Remember, Labs do not have a natural food intake regulator so you will need to monitor them with portion control. Using a cheaper brand is a poor option at half the price. You will use twice as much and you will have to clean up larger amounts of waste in your yard. To allow for an accurate control of body weight and growth rate, this amount of food can be dispensed over 3 meals per day. After 5 months of age, the feeding regularity can be reduced to two meals per day with the commensurate increase in food quantity. The amount of food a Labrador puppy requires will increase then level out during first 14 months of their life. At months, their bone density is increasing and their growth plates are set. We do not recommend desexing you pup until at least 3 years of age. This allows for an appropriate development and supply of hormone which in turn produces proper bone, muscle and vital organ development. Table foods dispensed randomly to dogs are not nutritionally balanced. We do not offer our dogs table food at all. There will be no problems if you are feeding a puppy with a homemade diet but it should be prepared from prescribed recipes that are nutritionally complete and balanced. Diets consisting of an unplanned and indiscriminate mixture of human foods particularly including carbohydrates will likely result in obesity and even dietary-induced disease. When you Lab reaches 14months of age, it should be given an adult food that contains less energy and calcium. This will decrease the risk of obesity and orthopaedic conditions. And do not feed them coffee or tea as they can contain caffeine, theobromine, and theophylline. These toxic substances can dangerously affect the heart and nervous system. Onions, garlic, raisins and grapes can be severely toxic in labradors. Raw meat is potential source of parasites and pathogenic bacteria for your puppy. Eggs yokes are an excellent source of protein. Raw eggs contain an enzyme called avidin, which decreases the absorption of biotin a B vitamin. This can, in extreme cease, lead to skin and coat problems. Liver contains higher levels of protein, fats, carbohydrates, minerals and vitamins. Raw liver can be a source of parasites and pathogenic bacteria. Excessive amounts of liver can cause Vitamin A toxicity. Raw bone chewing will control tartar buildup on a pups teeth. However, bone chewing can cause intestinal blockages and perforations. Never use cooked bones. Commercial Puppy Foods Most commercial puppy foods are designated for small, medium, large and giant breeds. This designation can be found on the label. Puppies of medium sized breeds are less than '25 kg fully grown adult body weight'. A full grown and lean Labrador will usually weigh between 25kg and 45kg. We feed our dogs at the 'lower' level of the recommended range. The 'Hills Body Fat Index' is a very helpful body shape indicator. The same food as the bitch You should feed your new puppy with the same brand of food as the bitch received during lactation. From 2 weeks into pregnancy, our expectant mothers are fed 'Royal Canin Labrador Puppy' food. Introducing a new brand of food If you are wanting to introduce a new brand of food to your puppy, then blend it gradually with the existing brand in increasing amounts over 3 days. This should prevent food rejection and any kind of gastric upset. It is best to choose a diet designed for large breed puppies. Selected commercial feeds should contain a limited percentage of filler compounds. Pawlinglabs uses Royal Canin Labrador as our preferred option. Growing labradors Labrador pups have a very steep growth curve, and their total daily energy needs do increase as they grow. Calculate the amount of puppy food that will satisfy that need. The feeding guidelines on the commercial pet food label provides an estimated quantity of feed for several different ranges in body size. These instructions will give you an estimated starting point for the particular brand. Medium or large? Medium breeds should be transitioned to an adult diet by 12 months of age, while large breeds between 14 — 18 months of age. Mature female labradors are medium and weight approx kg. Mature males are large and weight approx kg. Their calcium and energy content should not exceed that level recommended by a registered nutritionalist. Sound skeletal development Sound skeletal development in labradors is produced by the interaction of genetic, environmental, and nutritional factors. The phase prior to weaning and the growth phase, up to 14 months are integral to sound skeletal structure. Don't take your young pup on extended distance walks and certainly not 'running' until at least 18mths of age. You must avoid stairs and slippery floors for the same reasons. Their growth plates are set at about mths of age. Feeding and Overfeeding Large breeds like Labradors are the most susceptible to skeletal disease. Feed consumption, nutrients balance and feeding methods influence our ability to produce sound skeletal development and eliminate skeletal disease. Appropriate food consumption and nutrition plays a critical role in bone development. Overfeeding will not increase or benefit the growth rate of young and growing labrador puppies. And it does not correlate with optimal adult size. However, it does increase the risk of skeletal abnormalities. The vast majority of skeletal disorders occur in large breeds including labradors and they are associated with consumption of table food and an excessive intake of a commercial food and supplementation. The large breeds like labradors are limited in their ability to cope with an excess of minerals such as calcium. The result of this over consumption is abnormal bone development and skeletal disorders. Nutritional management will be critical in the to prevention of bone and joint diseases. In most cases, skeletal disease can prevented by appropriate quantities of feed in a regulated diet with optimal nutrient levels. A complete and balanced commercial diet is essential. Dietary deficiencies will be of little concern if your labrador pup is fed with a complete and balanced commercial diet. Brands like Eukanuba and Royal Canin are specifically formulated for young, growing labradors. There is real potential for harm by over feeding and giving additional supplementation. Housing safety and activity levels Housing safety and activity levels are under the your influence. Nutrition is also under your control and it is the single most important factor affecting the development of the musculoskeletal system. Energy, protein, and calcium are the critical nutritional components affecting skeletal development. However, if they are given in excess, they will be detrimental to normal bone and joint growth. Most pet owners feed commercial dog food. These prepared diets are balanced and complete. Pawling Chocolate and Black Labradors. The source of protein matters when considering a high-quality diet. FATS The rest of the diet should be made up of fats, carbs, and vitamins. Labs need to have a correct protein -to-fat ratio, where protein takes the lead. Dogs tend to convert fat into glucose, so this is an important source of energy. Dogs rely mostly on protein and fats, but carbs are necessary. That said, a low carb diet is best for puppies. However, you still need the right percentage of carbs, since this gives your dog the sensation of being full. These include starches, fibers, and sugars. Try to opt for more complex carbs like starchy grain and veggies because these are easier to digest. Your Lab puppy will thrive when his or her diet includes: Vitamin B12 especially during puppy development , Vitamins A and E, C, Vitamin D, phosphorus, and calcium, Potassium Each of these required vitamins and minerals contributes to a healthy, happy, and energetic puppy. They also help offset issues like obesity. Vitamins A and E are important because they help your dog burn calories and promote eye and skin health. Vitamin D, calcium, and phosphorus, on the other hand, are part of a trifecta that works to strengthen teeth and bones. Potassium is a heart health-preserver. Labs with poor genetics are especially prone to orthopedic issues. Osteoarthritis and hip dysplasia are common health problems for this breed. Glucosamine, an amino-sugar, together with chondroitin sulfate, helps replace and support naturally degrading cartilage during old age. Recently,"grain-free" foods are being championed as a preferred and even high-quality form of dog food. That's, not the whole story. An investigation launched by the FDA revealed that there are potential links between a form of canine heart disease and grain-free foods. So far, researchers have provided an update to this researchers have provided an update to this research staring that the issue may not just be grain-free diets. Grain-free may be part of other trends knows as "BEG"- boutique companies. Puppy diets don't' need to be complicated. They also don't need to include ingredients that humans might enjoy. Enjoyment doesn't necessarily bring any nutritional value to your puppy's development. Keep it simple, using the guidelines for fats, proteins, and carbs above and don't shy away from food with grains in them. It's not their presence that's a problem it's often the ratio. There shouldn't be more carbs or grains than protein. Nor does including only legumes, seeds, lentils, or chickpeas as the primary ingredients make the food more superior. It's perfectly healthy to include complex carb sources like starchy rice and other grains. Grain-free isn't and shouldn't be a qualifying factor for your choice in puppy food. Feeding Your Puppy Kibble Kibble is dried, pelleted food that stores well is easy to eat, and is pre-formulated with everything your puppy needs to thrive and grow in his early developmental months. There are plenty of popular brands that don't measure up to the Snowy Pines standard. That's why it's so vital for you to learn how to read puppy food labels. Puppies should stick with "puppy stage" food, while adults should stick to bags marked "adults. Instead, your dog should have regular bowel movements, allowing them to absorb all the nutrients available. You should also keep in mind that caloric intake is calculated a little differently for puppies. Kibble diets are measured by how many calories the proteins, fats, and carbs represent for each gram. For puppies, this should be 3. Sticking to these ratios will help ensure your kibble choice is a healthy one. It's also important to note that kibble calories are often higher when compared to wet food. If it's high-quality wet food, it won't have as much fat to preserve it, which means fewer calories. You may have to supplement with dry food, especially if you're trying to keep the calories of carbs, proteins, and fats in the right per-gram ratio. Fourth meal 5 pm You should follow this type of feeding schedule until your Lab puppy is 14 weeks old, after which you can adopt a two meal per day plan. However, keep in mind that Labs are especially prone to overeating and obesity, so if you use treats, ensure you give them sparingly. In fact, a study in the UK listed Labrador Retrievers among the eight breeds most prone to being overweight. So your food-loving Lab puppy requires a bit of control. One way to keep them from overeating treats is to portion out their food for the day and use that as their reward. In most cases, the puppy will respond just as enthusiastically to kibble. Place a bowl of water in a location accessible to your puppy and supervise him to ensure he drinks enough but not too much. Puppies at this age should drink between half and one ounce of water per pound of body weight daily. So if your eight-week-old Lab is 12 lbs 5. This is an essential part of puppy care. As mentioned, if you get your puppy from a reliable breeder which should always be the case , the pup should have already started with his vaccinations, and the breeder should provide the vaccination records. Then, make an appointment with the vet for any vaccination follow-up. Also, ensure your pup stays on worm preventative medication as puppies are more prone than adult dogs to worm infection. Sometimes puppies are also born with certain types of worms from an infected mother, especially roundworms and hookworms, where mother-to-puppy transmission is a significant mode of spreading. Be especially sure that your Lab puppy gets the heartworm vaccination. Heartworm is a dangerous and potentially fatal disease, and once your dog is infected, the cure is expensive and extremely harsh on your dog. A trained dog will learn how to behave in and outside the home and around other humans and pets. I have a full beginner guide on how to train an 8 week old Labrador puppy , but in a nutshell, there are three training areas you should focus on in terms of pet training: housebreaking, obedience, and socialization. Housebreak Your 8-Week-Old Labrador Puppy Housebreaking means training your puppy to eliminate outdoors or at a designated location inside the home instead of doing it anywhere and at any time. Puppies need frequent bathroom breaks because their system is not yet mature enough to hold it for long. Luckily you can take advantage of that to teach your dog to always use the same spot. Pay attention to the signs your puppy gives when they need to ease themselves, like circling, whining, or sniffing their groin. Puppies naturally need to eliminate at these times: First thing after waking up in the morning. Last thing before retiring at night. After every meal. After drinking plenty of water. Upon waking up from a nap. During or after play or exercise. When they wake up during the night. Their brain, at this point, is like a sponge that will easily absorb new info. Also, teaching these commands early will make living with you easier for your dog as he will know what is expected of him. Teach your Lab puppy to sit, lay down, stay, leave, and other basic commands that are foundational for more advanced training later. Remember to use only positive reinforcement training approaches and reward your puppy with verbal praise, positive gesture cues, and treats. Exposure to these realities will help your Lab puppy adjust fast and nurture proper social behavior. In addition, exposure will preempt signs of poor puppy socialization, like aggression and fear around people and other animals. In general, your eight-week-old Labrador puppy should have two minute sessions of exercise daily. In addition, keep the following in mind: Keep exercise sessions short in the beginning and allow your puppy to adapt gradually. Playtime counts as exercise, so be careful not to over-exercise your Lab puppy. This is the harness I use. Allow your pup spontaneous rest moments between play. When exercising your puppy , avoid taking him for walks during the coldest or hottest times of the day. There are several ways to ensure your eight-week-old Labrador puppy is always safe, including ample supervision and choosing the right kind of toy. They might also try to get away on an exploratory walk if the door is left open. To avoid these dangers, puppy-proofing your home before getting your eight-week-old Lab puppy is vital. Read more here, What Foods are Poisonous to Labradors? Unplug power cords and put them away when not in use, as your puppy could try chewing on them. Remember that your puppy is young and still learning. It is also a legal requirement in some countries, such as the UK, and it may be required when traveling. While name tags are an excellent way to identify a dog, they can be easily removed or get lost, which means you are better off microchipping your Lab puppy, or even better, do both. Choose Safe Play Toys for Your 8-Week-Old Labrador Puppy Like us, eight-week-old puppies still have their baby teeth which they gradually lose to make room for their adult teeth. So, expect a lot of chewing and nipping during this time. Like humans, teething can be uncomfortable, and chewing is their only way to relieve some of that pain. To that end, ensure your Lab puppy has the right chewing toys to avoid damaging teeth or accidentally swallowing toy pieces. This toy is great for teething pups, doubles as a fetch toy, and is also a treat-dispensing toy where you can stuff it with peanut butter or other goodies. If proper toys are not provided, your Lab puppy will chew any available object in the house, such as table legs, shoes, remotes, or your hands. As such, they need proper resources for resting and sleeping. That includes the time to do so and a place where they will feel safe in. This synthetic dog bed has an ultra-soft feel and provides maximum comfort for your Lab. You can use it in the crate or as a stand-alone bed, and it comes in a few different styles and sizes. I like this bed due to its 3. Ensure the bed is in a location with no draft and where your puppy does not get any disturbance when resting. If you put your puppy straight into the crate without helping them adjust, it may react poorly. When buying a kennel, the best approach is to buy one that your pup can use as an adult dog, which for a Lab would be around 42 inches .Just be sure to get a crate with dividers so you can make the space smaller for your puppy. An 8-week-old Lab puppy can only walk for approximately minutes at a time. In most cases, young puppies will not walk but rather jump around and play. Still, keep in mind that they do not need long exercise sessions. Instead, keep playtimes short and allow for lots of rest. Remember that puppies should only walk about five minutes for every month of age, twice a day. At three months, you can stretch it to 15 minutes. Overwalking your Lab puppy can cause joint and bone issues and should be avoided. As such, a dog from a larger breed will need more food as a puppy than a smaller breed. An 8-week-old Lab puppy should be fed three to four meals of no more than cups a day. The amount you feed your puppy will depend on his size and weight. For example, if your puppy is between lbs 4. These measurements can vary with each dog food product, as different manufacturers have varying ingredients, so ensure you check the packaging first. Eight week old Lab puppies sleep for approximately 18 to 20 hours a day. An 8 week old Lab should pee as soon as they wake up, after eating and drinking, after waking up from a nap, during or after a session of play or exercise, just before going to bed at night, and when they awake during the night. How often and what time to feed I will show you the best puppy foods, whether dry, wet, or raw, and look at food safety, together with schedules, quantities and even a handy puppy diet chart. Best Puppy Food for Labs The best Labrador puppy food provides a diet that is nutritious, healthy, and tasty. So, what is the best puppy food for your Lab? Puppy kibble or dried food is the most popular option. Kibble is complete and can give a perfectly balanced diet. Puppy kibble and tinned dog meat combined is another common choice among puppy parents. Feeding your Labrador puppy on home cooked food or on a totally raw diet is also possible. Raw puppy food is growing in popularity, and there are pros and cons to raw feeding your puppy. People often feel very strongly that one way of feeding is better than another, and you can always find evidence to support your view. Dog breeders, veterinarians and even nutritionists have their own strong views. The dire consequences they list for not listening to them can have puppy owners very worried. The truth is that there is no good quality evidence showing that kibble is better for the long term health of your dog, or that raw feeding is better. There are risks and benefits to both, and the main thing is to ensure that your dog has good quality food to eat. Puppy kibble suits some better, and raw puppy food is better for others. Puppy Kibble for your Labrador Puppy food made into pellets is called kibble. An airtight plastic container or tin will do the job, although you should make sure it is food grade quality. Puppy kibble is the best way of feeding your Labrador according to most breeders and your veterinarian is most likely to support this method of feeding. Good puppy kibble will contain every nutrient your Labrador puppy needs in order to grow and remain healthy. The kibble pieces will be tasty, good for keeping teeth healthy, and free from additives that can provoke allergies or stomach problems. Labrador puppy kibble only needs to be fed next to water. Puppy kibble from a reputable manufacturer is intended to be a complete and balanced food. But some owners like to mix in canned dog food or even scraps of raw food with kibble. Your puppy is likely to get an upset stomach or to not have the right balance of nutrition when fed this way. Whether you decide to feed only with kibble or you want to mix it up, pick a good dried food manufacturer and stick with them. Feeding your Labrador puppy raw food has its benefits and drawbacks. One of the downsides is that there is a lot to learn. Here is a link to the articles you need to help you decide whether or not raw feeding is for you: Although I like the raw diet for my dogs, most puppies fed kibble go on to have long and healthy lives. Whatever puppy food you choose, the most important thing is portion control. How Much to Feed your Labrador Puppy? People often tell me how much their puppy weighs, and ask how much puppy food they should give him. Your Labrador is particularly at risk if they grow too quickly. The following diet chart is for kibble fed puppies and does not apply to raw fed pups. It gives you an idea of how much to feed your Labrador puppy Lab Puppy Feeding Chart The Lab puppy feeding chart below is only a very rough guide. The quantity of food you need for your puppy will vary depending on your puppy and on the brand of food you are feeding him. Labrador puppy food must be aimed at medium to large breed dogs. Check the pack carefully and look at the dietary charts. Ideally, you want the optimal protein content and the lowest amount of additives. Part of this always comes down to the cost. The healthiest puppy food is usually the most expensive and may not be affordable for some families. The Cost Of Puppy Food Some puppy food brands are more concentrated than and contain a higher proportion of proteins, essential oils, and other nutrients. The absence of these fillers means that you can often feed lower quantities of more costly food, making them less expensive than they first seem. You might also find that cheaper brands make your puppy poop more due to those extra fillers going straight through him. While some brands are beyond the budget of many families, it is usually good to buy a premium brand. High Quality Brands of Puppy Food Some brands of puppy food have developed a reputation for producing a high quality product and have many devoted supporters, including breeders that have fed them to generations of puppies. Made with real meat and no artificial colors or flavors how much should a lab eat? Allergies Labs can also have allergies. Some dogs may be allergic to wheat, macadamia nuts, etc. It can manifest as a runny nose, high volumes of shedding, rashes on the skin, and so on. Different dietary needs are crucial, especially if they display allergy symptoms. Avoid all types of human foods. You can give your lab puppy supplements You can get great quality adult dog food and puppy kibble from companies like Royal Canin Labrador Retriever, Blue Buffalo, Canidae Grain-Free, etc. Only adult food must be given to labrador retrievers who have crossed 1. Your puppy needs 4 small meals consisting of half a cup of food per meal till he is 2 months old. From 2 to 6 months, he needs 3 meals daily consisting of 1 cup of food per meal. From 6 months onwards , you can give your puppy 2 meals daily of 2 cups of dog food per meal. Is This A Problem? Yes, this is a major problem! Fat dogs are adorable but also extremely unhealthy. An adult labrador retriever should weigh at most pounds. Labs that are fatter than this stand at the risk of obesity, arthritis , and other lifelong diseases. Refrain from feeding your labrador too many dog treats. Onions and garlic: surprisingly, anything in the onion and garlic family is incredibly toxic to dogs. Meat with bones: if not chewed properly, sharp edges can rupture the throat, stomach lining, intestines, and other parts of the digestive tract. Other human foods and beverages to avoid giving your dog are alcohol, sugar, citric fruits, and anything with caffeine. Your labrador retriever should weigh between 55 to 70 pounds at full adulthood. Male labs are heavier than female labs, so they can fall on either side of the optimal weight spectrum. Some healthy treats for your labrador retriever are cut fruits and vegetables. Carrots, celery, cucumber, beetroot, apples, bananas, and berries strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, cranberries, etc. Dogs also love peanut butter! Veggies dipped in peanut butter also make a great snack for your dog. This is entirely up to you as dog owners. If you have the time and patience to cook meals for your dog, go for it. Store-bought food is easier and is filled with the right nutritional requirements for your lab puppy. On the other hand, with the right recipe, home-cooked food works, too. What Should I Do? A dog growling at you when you go near his food bowl is most commonly a trauma response or a way to protect his food. We often see this with rescues. House training your lab puppy is equally important to avoid food aggression. Labrador Retrievers get piddly after their meals. Dog owners must take out their lab puppy as frequently as they eat sometimes even more often to let their energy out and adult labradors less frequently. A lab puppy needs a ton of exercise. The amount of kibble you should feed your Labrador puppy will vary depending on their age, weight, and activity level. A good rule of thumb is to start with cups of kibble daily and adjust as needed. Best Dog Food For Lab Puppies: The best dog foods for lab puppies include those that are high in protein and low in fillers. The food you should feed a black lab puppy is the same as for any other Labrador puppy. A chocolate lab puppy should be fed the same food as for any other Labrador puppy. A 2-year-old chocolate lab should eat about cups of kibble daily. You should stop feeding puppy food to your Labrador at around months of age. At this point, their growth plates will have closed, and they will no longer need the extra nutrients found in puppy food. Labradors live for years. They start to slow down around 7 and may develop some health problems in their senior years. You should also increase their exercise level. Lab breeders feed their dogs high-quality dog food specifically formulated for large-breed puppies. A lab puppy should drink about 1 ounce of water per pound of body weight daily. This amount may increase as they get older and more active. A labrador needs at least 30 minutes of exercise per day. This can be a combination of walking, running, and playing. Golden labs live for years. Chocolate labs live for years same like labs of any color. Labradors lose their baby teeth between 3 and 6 months of age. You can start to transition your puppy to eating twice a day at around 6 months of age. By the time they are 1 year old, they should eat only once daily. You should stop feeding your large breed puppy food at around 18 months of age. Why Are Labs So Hungry? Labradors are a very active breed of dog, and they need a lot of calories to fuel their energy levels. They are also prone to gaining weight, so keep a close eye on their food intake About The Author Shradha Kabra Shradha is a seasoned writer at Labradorandyou. Her experience as a pet owner and dog enthusiast drives her to create meticulously researched and fact-checked content, offering valuable insights on Labrador training, grooming, and health. Each article reflects Shradha's passion and dedication, enriched by personal experiences with her beloved Labradors, Tom, and Kurt. Whether exploring breed-specific training techniques or providing product reviews, Shradha ensures Labrador owners receive the most accurate, up-to-date, and trustworthy information, aimed at enhancing their companions' health and happiness. The best food for Labrador puppies to consume in their first two to four months of life is milk from their mother. This specialised care is usually left to trained breeders or veterinarians, who are knowledgeable in caring for pups with no mother to nurse from. If you have recently brought a Labrador puppy into your family, they are most likely older than 8 weeks, and so have started to eat solid foods. You can do this by mixing some dry food with specially formulated puppy milk to form a soft mixture. You can feed your puppy this mixture three to four times a day. Over time, you can reduce the amount of milk you include in this mixture, until they are at the point where they are happily eating dry foods. Read on to learn how much you should feed a Labrador puppy as they get older. In their four months living with you, and once they are weaned off milk, Labradors are likely to reach almost half their adult weight. They will reach their full adult weight by the time they are 6 to 7 months old. With this rapid growth can come some risks. Labradors can be susceptible to bone growth disorders, like hip dysplasia and joint abnormalities that can start in puppyhood. Once your Lab puppy hits 6 months, their growth begins to slow down. Once puppyhood is over, you can move to feeding your lab twice a day instead of 3 or 4 times. Labs are still very active in their adolescent years, and so should be fed with this in mind. The transition from puppy food to adult food should happen at around 15 months. This is because, being a breed who grows very quickly, you want to ensure that you are feeding them according to their large breed needs. You need to take special care when considering what you should feed your Labrador puppy, as they require different nutrients compared to their adult counterparts. It is also dangerous for a puppy to overeat. Labradors are large breeds, which means they need plenty of nutrients and calories as they grow to ensure they go from being active puppies to healthy adult dogs. Labrador puppies need to eat food that is high in proteins and fats. Carbohydrates are also essential for supporting your active pup. Aside from nutritionally complete dry puppy food, Labrador puppies can benefit from the extra protein that raw meat can provide them with, such as lean beef, turkey, chicken, or fish. The amount of food you give your Labrador is determined by their weight, energy levels, and age. For most adult Labradors, around 1, to 2, calories per day from high quality food sources is ideal. Female Labradors, who tend to be around 5 to 10 kilos lighter than males, may need less food, as will less active dogs. Dogs who need less food, whether they are less active or simply older, will usually still need around 1, to 1, calories per day. You may want to alter the amount of food you are feeding your Labrador based on how calorically dense their food is. Adult Labradors should be fed twice a day, once in the morning and once in the evening. Their daily allotment of food should be split evenly between these two meals. For most dogs, it is recommended that you exercise your dog before meal times to assist with potty training. However, some dogs may benefit from exercise after eating: especially high energy Labs with a lot of energy to burn off. You should also try to give your Labrador a high quality food that is specially designed for large breeds, especially if they are very active. For example, less active senior dogs will need to eat less food as they will not be burning calories as quickly as a lively little puppy will. Senior dogs may benefit from a higher fibre and lower calorie diet. Your dog may also develop chronic or short term medical conditions that require specially formulated food. For example, Labradors can be particularly susceptible to obesity. As a breed, they tend to be one of the most commonly obese dogs in Australia. This is due to several factors, including a genetic predisposition to unhealthy weight gain and a famously large appetite. However, plenty of Labs suffering from obesity are simply overfed and not getting enough exercise. Choosing a low carb diet is crucial to preventing obesity in your Labrador. If you are unsure about what you should feed your Labrador, you should always consult your vet. They will be able to determine if your dog is suffering from any chronic health issues, and they will be able to create a nutritional plan to help keep your dog healthy and happy for many years to come. Wet food for Labradors is often high in protein and fat, and is better at keeping your dog hydrated than other food sources. Chewing on dry food can be especially good for teething Labrador puppies. A raw diet can be a good option for your Labrador as you have more control over the kinds of food and amount of nutrients your pup is consuming. For this reason, raw diets require a lot more work on your part as an owner. Whatever you decide to feed your Labrador, all dogs need a similar ratio of nutrients in their diets. Different dog breeds will need different kinds of nutrient support as they go through the various stages of their life. It can also be easy to overestimate the amount of food your Labrador needs to stay fit and healthy — especially if they are skilled at begging! You need to make sure that your dog is eating the right amount of food for their breed, their size, and activity level. You should also avoid foods that, while delicious for humans, can be harmful or toxic for dogs. Foods like onions, nuts, alcohol, cooked bones, and artificial sweeteners are commonly included in dinners meant for humans, but can cause serious health issues for your Labrador. No matter how old your Lab is, it is important to keep to a consistent feeding schedule. A feeding schedule can help you keep track of any changes in behaviour around food that might signal illness or physiological stress. You are planning to adopt a Labrador puppy, or already are a proud pet parent of one, you must be anxious about how best to assure optimum growth and health to your pup. This piece of writing is an attempt to give you some useful information about the kind of food which you can feed and also about how best you can feed it. In earlier times, the breed was mostly utilized and appreciated for being a versatile hunter. It can hunt on land as well as water; besides, this intelligent dog is a possessor of a gentle temperament, which makes it easily fit into the role of a friendly family dog. Types of Dog food Broadly speaking, the food for your pet is available in three forms — Wet, Dry and Raw. Wet food is the commercially manufactured food which offers chunks of meat, with or without gravy, with added vitamins, minerals and other important elements to make it nutritionally complete and balanced. Dry food consists of pellets called kibbles of food, which are easy to store and convenient to serve. The ready-made food bits meant for puppies consist of nutrients in the right proportions to support a healthy growth. Raw diet consists of raw meat, bones, fruits and vegetables. There are benefits and risks involved in administering a raw diet, which one should be aware of before adopting a fully raw diet. You may go for dry, wet or raw diet, or a combination of them. You may also consult your vet to guide in case you are confused about your choices. Labradors are always hungry and that is because of their huge appetites. As a pet owner you need to monitor the amount of food they eat, as their greed for food can easily drive them towards obesity, and consequently towards various diseases. Commercially made food Many companies categorize their foods on the basis of life stage puppy, adult, senior , breed large, medium or small , or may offer pet food specifically targeting a particular breed like Royal Canin Labrador Junior , which seeks to take care of a Labrador dog up to 15 months of age. The formulation of diets like this are based on the assumption that all pure breed dogs have their unique needs, which if addressed would bring the dog to an optimum level of health. Information from the breeders If you have brought the puppy from a breeder, then he would supply you a diet routine which needs to be followed, some food or may be some information regarding feeding. Follow it religiously for some days to give some sort of familiar touch to the puppy that is undergoing the stress of being separated from its mother and siblings. In absence of any information from the breeder, best thing would be to consult a vet. Milk for the puppy? Beware of confusing food labels Learn how to read a food label. The food label is given in decreasing order, making the first ingredient the biggest element in the food. That is why it is very important to know what the first two or three ingredients of the food are. Ideally, the first element of any dog food should be a specific kind of meat like chicken, duck, beef ; meat-by-product, meat or animal should not be mentioned on the package as they present an ambiguous picture. Leftover of slaughter houses can find its way to your dog food, something which cannot be classed in the category of healthy and complete food. So if you care for your dog, be aware and make the right selection. Water Make sure that water is available to the puppies at all times of the day, except for one hour before sleeping time. Divide the daily diet The daily dietary requirement of your Labrador pup should be properly divided into portions of meal to be fed at regular intervals. This would help in managing digestion and for keeping its overall health at a good level. You can begin by feeding four meals a day to your 8 to 12 weeks old puppy, and have a time marked for each. Have a gap of at least 3 hours in between each meal so that the little doggie is able to digest it well. Two meals a day is also something which most dog owners continue to feed even after the dog grows up. Feeding your dog once a day after 12 months of age can work as long as you feed it raw meat. The dry kibbles tend to swell once the dog drinks water, and this may cause bloating and also damage its stomach, hence is strictly not recommended. Teach the dog to eat at meal times Your dog would learn to eat the food when it is offered to it if you take back the bowl after a specific interval of time, say 15 to 20 minutes. Household scraps Avoid giving leftovers from your own meals to your puppy, unless you have enough knowledge and experience in dealing with the nutritional requirements of a growing canine. The nutritional needs of your puppy are different than that of humans; also it may differ from one breed of dog to another. The growing pup needs complete and balanced diet to achieve its potential growth, otherwise lifelong disabilities or problems can find easy entry into its life. As, your heartfelt, but nutritionally lacking edible additions might unbalance the diet of your dog. How much to feed? How much food to feed your dog each day is something no one can precisely tell. But the guidelines on the package of the food you are feeding, along with your observation of how the dog is doing with the quantity fed, would help you decide an adequate quantity. The important thing to remember is that the dog should neither be too fat or too slim. Following some instructions related to diet, regular appointments with vet, observing the puppy and showering it with lots and lots of love would give such environment to the little canine in which it would thrive. About Petsworld Team The blog editor of Pets World is a pet aficionado and fervently follows her pet-obsession. A pet parent to animals big and small for the past two decades. The sum of all experiences gathered is an amalgamation of useful knowledge and research. More like this.